Ruapae Falls

The Tararuas may not be famed for its waterfalls but there are a few, and one or two are even marked on the map.  One of these is Ruapae waterfall in the northern part of the range near Eketahuna. There's no marked track, but the area looks quite navigable and there are a couple of spot heights to pick up nearby.

The waterfall is also near where the old Schormann's track ran up a spur to Kareti. This track was apparently cut by a local farmer forming a link to the tops and inevitably becoming the starting point for the famous SK (Schormann's - Kaitoke), a challenging end-to-end weekend traverse of the range for those of a masochistic bent.  Putara hut was on the spur but it mysteriously burnt down and access to the track was denied in 1977 - the track is no longer marked but you can still see it on the old maps.

As if these features not enough reason for a trip, I also have my eye on Haukura Ridge. This is a lumpy complicated system running south off the main range at East Peak. The hillsides are quite spectacular in the area - steep and heavily eroded. To the west of the ridge is Chamberlain creek - probably the most extensive real canyon in the ranges. There is an old Biv site on the ridge and various trip reports on the web (which, regrettably I neglected reading until afterwards).

What:   Navigation and spot-heighting
Where:  Roaring stag area, Tararuas
When:   17-18 February
Who:     Solo
Map: 

A little after 7.20am I leave the carpark, casting a jaundice eye at the cloud swathed ridges. A few minutes later a spray of rata beside the swing-bridge is a cheerful counterpoint to the gloom overhead. On the other side I start looking for a way up the hill to pt 655. Not too close to the bridge as there is a bush edge marked on the map which could be a bit scrubby.

Just up the track there is a wee shingle slip with a tiny stream that has wiped out the track. It provides a good enough point to start working up the hill. It's pretty open going a bit of undercanopy and, as expected, saplings and scrub towards the north. The top is broad and flat with tall rimu, matai and miro.

There are old tape markers and ground trails in places but these are easily lost so I just follow the compass. The high canopy gives no views.



Uncinia leptostachya
Bastard grass



Occasional skiffs of rain make it to the forest floor but not enough to warrant a rain coat given that it's still pretty warm (par for the course for the morning).

I emerge off the hill onto a grassy flat beside what will become the Mangatainoka River. This would be a great wee spot to camp but at 8.45 it's still a little bit early.

The bush margins have very healthy clumps of bastard grass which, despite the fact that my legs are not very hairy, liberally entrust their progeny to my tender care.

Grassy flats looking up stream

The falls are marked in various places depending on the age of your map. It doesn't really matter - the stream twists and turns so it is pretty hard to be exact. The valley narrows and steepens but is easy travel.                                                                                                                                                                 Shortly before the falls there is a large boulder between rocky bluffs with a deepish pool. Two people would probably help each other up - I just jamb my walking stick to into the stream to form a foot hold and scramble up the meter or so required.                                                                                                                                The drizzle gets a little more determined over the next couple of hours but is hardly noticeable at the falls themselves (about 30 minutes from the flats). There is the usual thunder, spray and cold wind associated with a stream dropping through a slot, maybe 10m into a pool. There's a large rocky alcove and it's mossy and slippery in the narrow gully. It takes about 10 minutes to take some inadequate photos and see my fill before turning down stream looking for a way up the true left valley side.

I idly wander about the source of the Maori place names in the area (there are quite a few) but have no ideas - even afterwards the best I can manage is that Ruapae may refer to two ranges of hills. In this area there is a peak with the name, the falls and a stream (not the stream with the falls).





A few of the old markers remain

Just below the falls a trickle enters from the left offering a precarious clamber up a series of steps in a mossy, choked water course. One step is a step to big requiring a scramble out on to a sharp wee spur to the west that climbs to the main spur to Kareti.   Here there is a strong ground trail and it's reasonably open - I figure this is the route of the old Schormanns track - it is certainly well enough formed. I pop up a little beyond pt 820. It's still but cloudy so no views. I figure you would have good access to the ridge from here.

With some reliance on the altimeter and one false start I leave the old track to find the spur dropping south towards the flats from earlier (at about 740m). There is a bit of ground trail but it comes and goes and I end up dropping off at some point to hit the stream a little earlier than intended. I'm back at the flats around 11.45am.

River flats below Ruapae falls (again).

Less than 15 minutes downstream is a rocky creek entering from the true right - I figure this will be an easy route up to the saddle below Herepai Hut (the old maps show a route up the spur on the true right of the creek but I don't find this out until later). The best description is that the creek is 'aggressively eroding'. It's bouldery but mostly pretty open and all the log chokes are navigable. It gets a little bit messy near the top but I'm in the saddle a little after 12.30.

Unnamed creek from saddle bellow Herepai Hut 

Looking down the Maungatainoka from the creek mouth 
Hill with pt 655 on left

It's a little odd to find a perfectly good track and cross it perpendicularly to drop down a gully. My route down follows a trickle through forest at first but soon breaks into an active erosion gully. I just follow the trickle as it becomes a creek rather than try to break onto a spur.

Looking back up towards the saddle - a bit messy

At 1pm I'm on river flats beside Ruapae stream. Time to turn upstream but also make a mental note that the bottom of the opposite spur doesn't look too bad - I may be emerging here later on and want to check I won't get bluffed.

Ruapae Stream

10 minutes upstream are the forks and my intended spur running due east up to East Peak. I take the chance for a sit down and a water refill before tackling the climb.

The first task is to find a way to scramble up the steep foot of the spur then there's a steady climb up through good bush. As with most spurs - there could be a ground trail but it's probably mainly from animals. After an hour there are some openings and some views out. About ENE the orange roof of Herepai Hut sticks out on the ridge up to Herepai and Ruapae. This is the route up to the tops and the modern start of the North-South Traverse of the Tararuas. It's too far to see if there are people about.

The view also indicates the tops are still hidden in cloud with just the occasional steep erosion chute plunging out of the clag. I recall looking across at this ridge and noting how rugged it looks near the top. The forecast is for gale-force winds - and although it's not bad now it could get a bit interesting. To the south, I can examine the ridge I intend to come down later - it's covered in scrub.

East - Herepai hut is a dot where the ridge climbs steeply on the left

And scrub is what I am destined to be thrashing through very soon. The forest gives up (the map says around 900m so well below the normal bushline) for cedar and lots of leatherwood and dracophyllum. I can't find any coherent trail but there are sporadic animal tracks so you just piece it together as best you can and accept it is going to be slow and painful.

Pahautea - NZ Cedar

Looking up into the head of  the valley between East Peak and Ruapae 

The scrub becomes a bit lower and I angle around to the north face of the spur to pick up more tussocky country and easier going. A stronger ground trail develops and there is a lot of animal sign. A shot gun cartridge is the only incontrovertible evidence of people. The threatened wind starts to pick up as I ascend into the clag at about 1200m.

The slope rounds off onto the unnamed knob ESE of East Peak (1380m). There's a marshy slot in the middle where I shelter to check compass and map. Visibility is about 20 meters and the wind is smashing into the slope from the west.

Accepting that the compass knows what it's doing, I select the windward side of the ridge and follow the bearing south to pt 1332. It's difficult keeping upright but it's mostly scree and low vegetation on this side - a brief foray to the lee side sees me bowled over on the ridge line and the veg on the other side is not so easy. Glasses are relegated to a pocket for fear of having them whipped away.

At 1332 I now have the tricky job of finding the spur leading to the saddle and pt 1127. It would be a doddle in clear conditions but now it is interesting. At least the ridge provides some shelter (for now) and the first couple of 100m down is relatively open. Then the scrub starts again and it is back to trying to find any route through.  The last 50 or so vertical meters to the saddle are particularly trying.

There is apparently an old route around here somewhere and an old bivvy site - I think I find some traces but discover later that other people have followed the creek bed to the right of the spur. My legs are starting to get shredded and very tender from the scrub treatment - particularly as those bloody gators have had to be removed as they are wearing holes in my legs again.

Dropping out of the clag and first view of the saddle
Old bivvy site down to the right somewhere

Once through the saddle there's another scrubby scramble but the vegetation is a little less hostile. The top of 1127 is dropping in and out of the clag and the wind is making itself known again. As the cloud lifts, views open over the intervening ranks of hills towards the sunny Wairarapa.

From 1127, looking back at the spur and saddle - creek is on left

Someone's getting some sun

At 4.40pm I have a decision to make. Head SW to pick up pt 912 and suffer more scrub torture plus be virtually guaranteed to be caught out by the dark. Or cut losses and leave 912 for another day.  I decide I can cope with a late night but I will be kicking myself if I leave that spot height behind.

The cloud keeps coming and going but there is enough view that navigation is mainly by eye.

And the cloud comes in again

The knob is clearly visible steeply down the spur - as is the intervening scrub. The last 100m or so is once again through low and then higher scrub. The knob itself has some good healthy 2m scrub. I manage to find a few spots to take photos

Down spur towards 912 - Ruamahanga on left

SE from 912 towards Tawhero - foot of Cattle Ridge dropping from right

Dome hidden in cloud to left - Chamberlain Creek between spurs on right

At 5.20 it's taken 40 minutes from 1127. Now the tough job of getting back. The north face of the spur is slightly easier going and it's 45 minutes back to 1127, so not so bad.

And the cloud comes again ...

This time the cloud lifts enough to show the Ruamahanga far below as it and the Ruapae meander inevitably together. The hidden lake is visible as a brown spot just above where the Ruamahanga river becomes visible - no time to visit today I'm afraid. I think I briefly see the orange roof of Roaring Stag Lodge. Unfortunately I have to go a long way in the opposite direction to pick up one more spot height before I'll be down there.

SE from 1127 Ruapae/Ruamahanga forks

The saddle again

Looking down my spur

The spur down points directly towards Herepai Hut. I have a sit down at the top to rest battered legs. The aim now is to get to the river before dark - which may be a bit earlier if the cloud drifts any further east.  It's 6.15.

What to say? Scrub of diverse descriptions, scratches on scratches and bruises on bruises. It's tough and somewhat demoralising. Eventually, towards pt 853 I can stop pushing through scrub and drop below the canopy. It's taken 1:15 to travel a km or so down the spur. It's getting dim but just after 8pm I break onto the stream flats - I figure on an hour before needing a torch.

Spur up to East Peak in foreground

I'm pretty sore but Ruapae stream is easy going. It just takes ages. A skiff of rain comes through periodically but otherwise it's just more stretches of water, more flats and more walking. At 9pm I give up and crack out the torch.

It turns out I'm a minute from the forks and from there just half an hour and four river crossings to the hut arriving just after 9.30pm - about 14 hours on the go.

There are no lights but three bodies on the deck indicating a full house. I decide not to wake everyone by making dinner so find a spot on the porch and munch on bread and cheese before dossing down.

Morning from Roaring Stag

I ache myself awake - relieved that the rain hasn't driven in over night and pleased not to be stuck on a scrubby spur. It's still warm and the Ruamahanga is still on the cusp of the weather from the west.

A party of four women from Palmerston North TC get up early and head off down river. I'm next up and cook two breakfasts to make up for dinner. I take my time but no-one else gets up.

Another decision - head out or pick up some local spot heights. It's really tempting to just call it quits for a leisurely crawl out licking my wounds and nursing aging joints. I fill in the hut book and sneak out to climb the hill behind the hut.

Full house

7.45 is a civilised hour - a 400m climb after yesterday - not so much.  It takes an hour to get to the scrub then a 15 minute crawl and climb through it to the ridge (there might be an easy way through but I missed it). Parts of the ridge are clear, but not southwest to pt 650. 

Down spur to Ruamahanga - 1127 in cloud

Same view from a little further along

On the map, the distance between 811 and 650 is not so much. It takes almost 2 hours.  Sometimes crawling along pig trails with pack off, sometimes pushing through scrub, eventually dropping west to follow along below the crest under a higher canopy. Every now and again climbing a tree and taking a bearing off a landmark.

After yesterday it is now mentally tough as well as physically draining and painful.

650 and lunch

From 650 there is no obvious route so I just drop down slope looking for the path of least resistance. Finally it feels like a bit of progress. I've been along the river twice before but always on the opposite side. I'm surprised to find that there are pretty good terraces most of the way back to the hut from below 650. Arriving about midday to find it empty and very tidy.

In the spirit that I am not going to do anything the easy way this weekend I head up the track and leave it just before it starts climbing. I follow up beside the slightly slimy brown stream to a point where I reckon I'm near the spur north to pt 713 (a bit of farfing involved).

The spur is well defined, steepish at points with a lot of saplings - it's not easy travel so it is after 1:30 when I finally sit in dappled shade at the top. The track is less than 200m away but there is one final way to make this more difficult. I head NE scrambling down through bush to find a trickle then a creek then a stream.

713

It looks straight forward on the map - a reasonably gently shelving stream - but I'm thoroughly sick of log jambs and slippery rocks by the time I get to the junction with the Mangatainoka 1 hour 40 later.

Mangatainoka River and the weather is looking up

Half an hour later its 3.45 and I'm turning my pack inside out to find the car keys. The ginger beer has been sitting in the sun and pretty much explodes on opening but it gets me as far as Carterton New World and something cold.

So ...
Ruapae falls - check. Worth a visit, nice little starter navigation exercise - particularly taking in 655. Falls are not really beautiful but an unusual sight in the Tararuas.

Schormanns track - check. Still there and navigable - not sure if you can get in from the farmland - would need to ask permission - it would be pretty easy to get to from the flats below the falls.

Haukura Ridge - check. Tough in the wind and clag. Even on a good day that scrub will be a challenge. Maybe try the creek to the saddle? 912 - interesting views, the exit off the bottom of it looks challenging to say the least. 853 - that scrub section is a bugger. Lower sections not so bad.

Ruapae stream - check. Lovely stretch of water with lots of camping spots. Need to take some time to check out the lake at some point.

811 and 650 - check. Just that - check.

713 and stream out - check. Takes the tally to 9 spots for the weekend - not bad.

SK Valleys

A few years back someone rather carelessly told me about a traditional challenge of 'doing' the length of the Tararuas in the space of a weekend. They should have had more care - the idea lodged and it was pretty much inevitable that at some point I would have a go. Without going into all the details, it is called the 'SK', or the Schormanns - Kaitoke, after the start and finish points. The Schormanns Track no longer exists so you leave from the nearby Putara Road end, but somehow 'PK' has not caught on - shame, it has a bit of a ring to it.

There are a couple of main options and lots of variations - the Valleys route is easier and more direct. The tops is longer and, not surprisingly, more exposed with considerably more up and down. Records exist for assisted and solo efforts, and the times being posted now are superhuman.

When I say 'easier' the Valley SK is still a small matter of 74km and a net climb of a little under 3400m.  I'm not chasing a record though - I'd just like to get the idea out of my head.

What:   SK Valleys
Where:  P to K
Why:     Because it'll bug me until I've done it
Who:     Solo, unassisted
When:   10 December 2016
Map:     Map

Preparation

With regular trips over recent months my fitness is at a suitable level and gear all well tested. The trip is on marked tracks, apart from a section at the start down the Ruamahanga River. I don't like rivers at the best of times, so checked it out a couple of weeks back. I've been over almost all the rest of it at some time, although it's been a while for some parts, and I'm not looking forward to scrambling around slips on the Tauherenikau (the subject of a long standing DoC warning).

On Wednesday I figure I've recovered from the previous weekend's exertions but the forecast is marginal - the story of this summer so far. The Ruamahanga River gauge drops gently over the next few days though, so at midday on Friday I decide it's a goer.

The plan is to start early Saturday morning, see how the day goes, and either soldier on into the night or sleep at one of the huts en route. I have a weekender hut pack (i.e. sleeping bag, no tent, warm layers, food, emergency gear) which means more weight but also more peace of mind. All up weight (with water) is 6.7 kg.

I complete the usual intentions sheet and send it to my PLB contacts with outlines of various contingency options.

The route

The original SKs involved trains, rail cars and taxis to get from Wellington to the track end on a Friday night after work. In the grand tradition I intend to catch the Wairarapa train, but then to spend the night in Carterton for a comfortable sleep and a drop off at the track end by an understanding brother.

The route follows the major river systems in turn as they run parallel to the length of the Tararuas in the east of the range, before each exits into the Wairarapa to join the Ruamahanga. This means a series of saddles and rivers, with huts around the more popular areas. It also provides regular milestones to mark progress: 6 saddles, 5 river systems (not counting the Mangatainoka) and 7 huts.

The final act is climbing up Smith Creek to Puffer Saddle and the long sidle and descent to the new (to me) road end at Kaitoke.

Kick off

At about 0515 it is dim in the bush but more than enough light to not need a torch. The clouds are gathered and threatening in the west, but it's not cold. The track along the stream and up to the junction is familiar territory.

Record shot - 0517

The junction (right to the Main Range, left to Roaring Stag) after 0:52 is my first saddle and at 1:40 Roaring Stag is my first hut (score: 1,1,0). The wind is strong in the tree tops - the sort where you get a little jumpy at creaks and cracks from overhead.

There's no-one in Roaring Stag as I fill in the log book, pause briefly, and checkout the river. Probably half a metre lower than two weeks back so it is looking good not to use the terraces (the high route that avoids the gorge section at Cleft Creek).

First sunlight creeping down one of the many slips

It's much easier travel down river this time. I hardly use the terraces, and boulder hop most of the way to the bluffs, about 0:45 min after leaving Roaring Stag. It's still deep, and I can't touch the bottom in places through the bluffs, but a lot less of a proposition than last time.

Looking back up through the bluff section -
deep on the true right but navigable by holding onto the rock

0:20 min later the gorge above Cleft Creek is unmistakable. The river runs onto the right bank forming a deep section against the rocky side. It's no drama to cross upstream in thigh deep water with just a little help from a koro stick.

Start of the gorge above Cleft Creek

The other side provides bouldery travel and a short scramble along a rock face opposite Cleft Creek. The river broadens and slows and another thigh deep crossing is easily accomplished. The track is on the right somewhere up on a terrace; I potter down stream a short distance to find a way to scramble up. Three hours after leaving the carpark I'm standing on the track (1,1,1).

Cleft Creek

Gorge above Cleft Creek

River below Cleft Creek

The first thing that is apparent is that a track team has been through - ferns, grasses and saplings have been cleaned off at ground level and markers have been added - fairly recently by the look of it.

The track climbs alongside then joins Cleft Creek and I am soon standing at the stream junction, which two weeks ago took 2:26 from Stag Hut with the river up and using the terraces route. This time, using the river route and the new track, it has taken 1:38.

Bear right but keep an eye on the markers because the track soon takes a new route

The next surprise is that the track takes a completely different route to the saddle. Instead of following a side stream, it dives into the bush and grunts straight up a spur. Eventually it bears right and sidles and rises for a long while to eventually hit the junction in the saddle, right beside the sign post to Waingawa. I'm stunned - I had stood at this point two weeks ago and saw no sign of this track.

However, right now I'm a little more focused on ticking off the top of the second saddle. It's 09:06, about 3:50 in, score: 2,1,1.

It's a short hop down to wade across the Waingawa and arrive at Cow Creek Hut 18 minutes later (2,2,1).

Cow Creek Hut

The track is now a fairly typical Tararua River track. It potters along in the bush, on grassy flats, across slips and in and out of side streams.

About 1:50 later the rather elegant Mitre Flats Hut hoves into view (2,3,1). The weather is still holding.

Mitre Flats 

I don't have fond memories of the Barton Track that climbs to the next saddle. It is pretty much as I remember: a bit of a climb up, a long sidle with a wee descent, then a drop into a creek, and a bit of a mucky scramble out and up again. I'm also starting to feel the distance already traveled. It is nice however to get to the intersection with Baldy Track and join the track I traveled last week (12:54, 7:37 elapsed, score: 3,3,2).

Descending from the saddle, heavy drops start pattering through the canopy, and by Atiwhakatu Stream the rain has set in. It's warm enough though, so I don't bother with a jacket. Between the two routes up to Jumbo I meet my first people - a group of three women who are following the old track up to Jumbo. We chat briefly but I can't tell them much about that route.

40 min from the saddle Atiwhakatu Hut (3,4,2) and I'm chatting to a couple who are just leaving having come in for a day walk. After filling in the log book, I take a bit of time for lunch out of the rain. I'm thinking now about when dark will become a factor. It's looking good to get through Cone Saddle which I hadn't fancied doing at night (it's years since I've been up through there).

The track now is a veritable highway and familiar from last week. It is also crowded as I run into a couple more parties and pass the couple from earlier.

Leaving the Atiwhakatu Stream (3,4,3) and climbing the River Ridge I start feeling a bit under the weather. Consequently it's a slow ascent. I figure I haven't been getting enough energy in, and focus on slowly nibbling through bars despite not feeling like eating. Voices ahead indicate I've reached Pig Flat. This is the route to Powell Hut and Mt Holdsworth but, more importantly, another saddle (4,4,3). It's 9:50 on the go now.

The Totara Creek Track is new territory. Last time I traveled in this direction it followed down the creek. Now it stays on the ridge above, then drops down a spur to cross on a solid swing bridge. The track is well bedded in now. This part of the trip should be quick going but I'm still making somewhat heavy weather of it and concentrate on just ticking along.

Totara Flats Hut is pumping when I arrive at 4:50 (4,5,3). It's hard finding a space to sit and drip and fill in the log book. A tourist kindly offers me some gourmet chocolate, and is understandably a little nonplussed that I am intending to leave a perfectly good hut at this time of day and in this weather.

The grass on Totara Flats is carrying as much water as it can hold and consequently deposits cascades of it as I brush through. A pause for the customary gaze across to the location of Sayers Hut - no-one to be seen but there's a waft of wood smoke in the trees almost indistinguishable from the mist. A little further on, a distinctive tang on the breeze removes any doubt.

A 'new' bridge has improved access to Cone Saddle Track. I remember a trip with school mates when Makaka Creek was a torrent and we sensibly turned back for an extra night at the old Totara Flats Hut. While we were there Greame Dingle came through with a bunch of hard youngsters and a camera crew. Later we heard a helicopter go over and I think the story goes that someone got swept away in a river crossing - not fatally fortunately.

Cone Saddle - camera in bag because of rain

I plod up Cone Saddle and meet a party of young women doing a trip for their Duke of Ed, together with adult chaperons. They are off to Totara Flats.

My memories of Cone Saddle is of a false top followed by a long sidle then a final wee 'up' to the saddle. I'm downright slow now and it takes ages to get through the sidle. Two creeks are significantly up but still quite passable.

At the saddle it's 7:28 and still light, but I arrived at Totara Flats Hut 2:40 ago so it has been slow. Still, 5,5,4 feels like progress.

21 minutes later I take a break at Cone Hut (5,6,4). There's a chap from the Rotorua Tramping Club in residence. He has come down from Alpha but spent the day in the hut. He has plenty of time, no firm plans and - hell, why flounder around in the wet when you don't need to!

I take a good wee time to drip on the floor, don jacket (it's not so warm now), fill in the log book, chat and ... yep, basically farf about and avoid getting back out there.

With head torch ready in pocket I eventually drag myself away. By now I have pretty much resolved that I may as well see this through, so there's a long evening walking ahead.

The Tauherenikau is making itself heard today. It's considerably up and you would not contemplate crossing to the Bull Mound Track. I am slightly concerned that I will hit a creek that is impassible somewhere down river.

Just before 9pm the very last of the light sees me to Tutuwai Hut: 5,7,4 and 15:40 on the go. A couple have a tent on the flats - he is in the hut and is tossing up whether to sleep out or in. The rain has finally abated so I switch on my light, top up my water and head on into the night.

It's hard to gauge progress in the dark. The only thing that provides information about the world beyond my torch light is the roar of the river. I know there are some slips to scramble around and the track does potter along and up and down - at one point there's a knotted rope but there's not much to indicate what's in the blackness below - very comforting!

I see numerous possums; ghostly in the light - twin pin prick eyes that look, disappear, then look again before heading up the nearest tree. A couple of times larger animals slip off into the undergrowth. When the track bears away from the river the odd Morepork can be heard. Otherwise I follow the tunnel through the trees and try to watch for markers and my footing at the same time until suddenly, I'm trying to make sense of what turns out to be a swing bridge support.

This is a major milestone. There have been no real navigational difficulties or impassable streams. I find out later that the rain had hardly touched the Wairarapa so the streams on my side of the river had hardly received anything whereas the Tauherenikau had had an ample dump in its head waters.

The interminable meander down river is now reduced to less than two km to Smith's Creek on a gentle track then the final climb to the final saddle. I don't even notice the shelter as I head past.

I confess to disliking this part - it can never be over fast enough. Smith's Creek represents the worst of accessibility, with the shelter often filthy and abused. The clay track beyond the saddle is lethal in running shoes and there's gorse among the scrub. Not good reasons to be so down on it - it's more likely to be something to do with usually being pretty much buggered by the time I get to this point and just wanting the pain to stop.

Picking my time I pop a gel tube with the idea that it will have well kicked in by the time I start up the wee climb to the saddle. Along the way there is a long standing bypass around a slip which I ignore - the route through is perfectly serviceable, even at night. Then the long drag up the valley, hanging out for the last stream crossing, which marks the short climb then sidle to the saddle: 6,7,5 - it's after midnight and, at last, I have run out of numbers.

There's cell reception now so I wake the long suffering support crew from her slumbers and she very gamely agrees to meet me at the road end. I'm somewhat surprised that it is quite a distance down to the new carpark by the entrance to Kiwi Ranch so she arrives only 10 minutes or so after me.

In the end, according to the time stamp on my start and finish photos, it took 19 hours and 43 minutes from P to K. Nice to finally get that out of my head - just the Tops version to do now. But not in one go I think.

Lessons

There's a few things that I would do differently when I don't ever do this again ...

My food choices were somewhat random; an assortment of bars, some emergency gels and can of sardines. I had enough but the bars proved to be a bit rich and hard to get down when I was feeling the pinch. Definitely need a little more thought.

A nasty case of chaff that had me walking like a cowboy for the next few days could have been prevented - tights are great for cool weather travel but do tend to rub a bit.

There are plenty of escape routes - I should have committed and not carried the extra weight of a sleeping bag and one of the extra layers.

I had a bit of a scrape on my forearm from last week and was a bit concerned about ripping the scab off and getting it infected. A telfa pad with a sleeve made from a nitrile glove with the fingers cut off to keep it in place worked brilliantly.

I was pretty stiff and sore for the next few days with the normal odd bruises, numb toes and the like, also a few wee spots where friction from clothing or pack straps had rubbed the skin off. Nothing that a bit more fitness and care wouldn't prevent. I also developed an interesting facial rash that could have been chloracne but for the absence of dioxin. It took a few days to clear - probably not shingles - possibly a heat rash, but seems a bit weird.

Running shoes were good and light but were lethally slippery on wet roots and rocks. Surprisingly I only got a couple of wee blisters but by the end it felt like someone had taken a rattan cane to my feet. I think I need something with a more aggressive tread, a bit of an instep and slightly more rigid sole.

Cattle Ridge loop

It has been quite the week, from four hours at the top of Wainui Hill in the wee small hours, feeling the aftershocks roll through, to a day watching the turbid Hutt River crawl up the stop bank. A bit of a tramp is surely indicated.

There's a stretch of the Ruamahanga River that I have been meaning to explore. The major river systems in the east of the Tararuas trace a line from Eketehuna to Kaitoke and I haven't got around to travelling the section from Roaring Stag Hut to the bend at Cleft Creek. It's not marked on the topo map but it's a known route and there's a reference in Tararua Footprints, albeit a little light in detail.

This weekend there was only one day available for a trip (after visiting Iona's most impressive weaving exhibition on Saturday), so I figured with an early start I could build a day trip around an exploration down river.

What:   Day trip
Where: Ruamahanga - Cattle Ridge Loop from Putara
Who:    Solo
Why:    Check out Ruamahanga River and Cattle Ridge
When: Sunday 20 November 2016
Map:   Map

The alarm goes at 4am after four hours sleep and I pour myself into the car for the 2 hour drive. The Putara Road End is tucked into the hills behind Eketahuna at the head waters of the Mangatainoka River. It's been a bit of a mecca for trampers over the years as the kick off point for the SK (look it up!). Unlike the hob-nailed boots that have walked this way before, I have the good fortune of not having to catch the rail car and a taxi to get here.

Morning at Putara Road End

The sun is well down the hills at 0640 as I leave the car at a relatively crowded car park (4 cars). The track is good along the river, up to the junction then the long amble down the ridge to the flats near Roaring Stag Hut.

Foot prints on the track indicate that there are a likely to be a few people at the hut. Sure enough there are two parties in when I arrive, an hour 45 after leaving the car. It's shaping up to be a sunny day.

The view from Roaring Stag

From here it's tiger country. I follow the track down to the Manuka Flats where the Cattle Ridge Track hives off west. At first I try to find tracks across the flats, but pretty soon the flats run out and it's a question of picking ones way along the river bank. The rain during the week means the river is up somewhat, so there's a bit of wading required when it carves in against the bank. There's quite a few slips along the way, some of which have been recently active. At times there are terraces that can be followed, but I don't see any evidence of trails or pink ribbons and inevitably end up in the river again.

Another slip

With the river up it's a bit slower going than expected, with a few sketchy scrambles on unstable erosion scarps required to avoid deep bits. Eventually the river enters a short gorgy section. There is no way I'm going to try to cross, as the river is deep and swift. There are enough hand holds on the rocky bluff and foot holds under water (no idea how deep it is) to clamber and float along the edge and around the corner - keeping well clear of the main current.

On the other side I find a slip as indicated in Tararua Footprints and scramble up. However, I find a large creek, which I quickly realise can't be Cleft Creek, so have to drop down another slip to the river - disturbing a deer on the way.

Random stream that is not Cleft Creek

Shortly after, yet another slip presents and I nip up to a series of old terraces. It's pretty easy travel but I can't find any indication of tracks. I potter along keeping the distant sound of the river on my left until I come across what is undeniably Cleft Creek. Undeniable as it is at the bottom of a large ... well, cleft. It's quite pretty, with clear water tumbling between steep mossy banks amidst mature forest. A few deep pools discourage me from looking too hard for a way down. Somewhere on the opposite side is the main track in from the Ruamahanga Road end.

It takes a while to follow up stream on the old terrace before I find a route down just before an old erosion scarp.

Another slip

It's further still before I look back and see an orange triangle. At some point the track has joined the creek. Two minutes later the route leaves Cleft Creek and starts climbing a side stream. It's taken about two and a half hours from Roaring Stag Hut. I think it would be somewhat quicker with a lower river, less chest high water, and fewer unnecessary excursions into the bush.

Cleft Creek looking down stream - first orange triangle on right somewhere 

Junction on Cleft Creek - route heads right

The side stream rapidly becomes a lot smaller but it is fairly easy and open travel. Marking is a little variable, and there are a few points where a little vegetation clearance or another marker wouldn't go amiss. I rock past the point where the track hives off up a spur towards the saddle, finding it beside an almost invisible tributary when I return looking for the last marker.

The track to Cow Saddle is also poorly marked in one section, where it traverses around the slope to the final short climb to the saddle. Approaching the saddle though, the ground trail is clear and in the saddle itself the turn off for Cattle Ridge is elegantly indicated by a classic old wooden sign.

Cow Saddle

It's about 11:40 so I figure time is going ok and there's no need to take the bail-out option back to the Ruamahanga Road end. There's a small matter of a 700m climb, though. It becomes rapidly clear that there hasn't been much track maintenance through here for a while. The track is covered in wind-fall, most of it small stuff that would be easily cleared with hand saws, and the occasional large tree that's created a bit of a mess.

Where's the track?

I've never been up this track before. It climbs steadily and is pretty easy to follow. It slowly opens unfamiliar perspectives on familiar Tararua features. Shortly before leaving the bush line I'm a little surprised to cross an active little stream - it looks big enough to possibly even be present in summer.

Down the Waingawa River - Cow Saddle to the left

Cow Saddle through to Te Mara on the horizon
Blue Hut would be just to the left somewhere

The track exits the bush line and works up through the scrub into tussock country. The bare tops start to dominate the horizon: Table Ridge to the south-west, gradually revealing more and more of Tarn Ridge at the headwaters of the Waingawa, the bush clad Blue Range in the east and Tawhero in the north east.

Spur up to Cattle Ridge - Ruamahanga River runs towards Mt Bruce (right of centre)

The wind gets a good run up out of the Waingawa head waters and slams into the spur, but then eases as the track climbs in the lee of Waingawa.

Approaching the top - looking north along Cattle Ridge

Approaching the top - SSW to Waingawa
That could be Banister behind?

Um, I think that's Table Ridge on the left

An hour and a half after leaving the saddle, Cattle Ridge is as round-topped as the map promises. Today it is quite clear to the east but the cloud lurks high above and thick around the peaks on the main range to the west; a strong cold wind cuts across (WSW?). We should stay clear today but I could imagine it being pretty bleak up here in clag.

Down the Ruamahanga

The top - Waingawa to Bannister on left, Dundas to the right with its head in the clouds

It's easy travel but cold enough that after a bit I give up and put my rain coat on - although the sun is coming through the wind is pushing me around a bit. The ridge top undulates along but I am waiting for the notch between Pukekino and Pukeroa. It is apparently about 100m down and up through tussock and spiky Spaniard.

Further along Cattle Ridge looking back 

Probably Bannister

There seems to be more of a foot track towards the east side of the ridge and down into the notch - not much though. There's a bit of scrub and quite a bit of Spaniard - some of it brown and tough, some green, soft and more flexible, but still spiky. I try to avoid stepping on it - partly because running shoes don't give much protection - but also I have a bit of a soft spot for it. We have few enough plants and animals that bite, sting or poison that we need to take care of those that do.

In the notch looking back

In the notch looking forward

Annnnd, looking across the notch to Pukekino

Cloud on the main range - spur to Dundas Hut almost visible just above shoulder

First view of Cattle Ridge Hut (dot on spur in middle)

Once the route from Dundas Hut joins Cattle Ridge there are markers, cairns and a ground trail so it is quicker going. Soon after the track heads off the east side of the ridge and down to the hut. There are a bunch of foot prints in the mud so someone has been through today.

Main Range panorama from near the end of Cattle Ridge
East Peak at right end - clouds magically gone again

It's taken a bit under an hour and a half to traverse the ridge to the hut and it's nice to get in out of the cool. This hut has been the source of a bit of controversy, with plans to remove it the subject of some criticism. There's a new wood shed, supplies for repairs and a new deck - slow going but a good start.

The log book indicates that a group of runners have been through doing the Dundas Circuit in a day - quite a trip.

Cattle Ridge Hut - not that pretty but there's a bit of work being done.

Next is the knee crunching descent to the Ruamahanga, almost 700m below.  It's a nice wee track down through scrub, then into forest, arriving at the river an hour after arriving at Cattle Ridge Hut.

Roaring Stag way below
Probably Tawhero behind 

Roaring Stag Hut

It's around 3.30 as I wander into the hut. An older couple have come in for a couple of days and have already read the log book, as they ask if I'm the bloke that had signed through earlier. They look set for a good couple of days with great weather in a comfortable, empty hut. Look most old school trampers they are thoughtful about their environment - he asks whether he should take a hand saw up Cattle Ridge tomorrow (not needed) and has already noted some of the rubbish around the hut that he will carry out.

After a short chat I head off, with the afternoon sun filtering through the canopy. It's a bit over an hour to the junction, then about 45 minutes to the road end I bump into a couple that have come down from Herepai Hut, after deciding not to head up and over to the Mangahao River because of the weather on Saturday.

The Junction

I wasn't expecting to be getting back to the car in daylight so it feels like a bonus to be hitting the road around 5.30pm.

I can feel that I've had a fairly active day and am sporting a few more minor bruises, scrapes and punctures, but nowhere near the beating from some of the recent bush bashing trips. However, it's a few days before I stop making old man noises every time I go to stand up.

The river section was a little more complicated than I expected, due to the high flow and a few unnecessary scrambles. I wouldn't like to do it in the dark. The track up to Cow Saddle needs a little attention to the markers, and the track up to Cattle Ridge definitely needs a tidy up. Cattle Ridge was really enjoyable - the views are great and it's a nice amble on a good day.  Don't expect a beaten track though. The track down is steep but pretty good and the track out is good apart from a fair amount of winter mud up to the junction.

A good day trip.