SK Valleys

A few years back someone rather carelessly told me about a traditional challenge of 'doing' the length of the Tararuas in the space of a weekend. They should have had more care - the idea lodged and it was pretty much inevitable that at some point I would have a go. Without going into all the details, it is called the 'SK', or the Schormanns - Kaitoke, after the start and finish points. The Schormanns Track no longer exists so you leave from the nearby Putara Road end, but somehow 'PK' has not caught on - shame, it has a bit of a ring to it.

There are a couple of main options and lots of variations - the Valleys route is easier and more direct. The tops is longer and, not surprisingly, more exposed with considerably more up and down. Records exist for assisted and solo efforts, and the times being posted now are superhuman.

When I say 'easier' the Valley SK is still a small matter of 74km and a net climb of a little under 3400m.  I'm not chasing a record though - I'd just like to get the idea out of my head.

What:   SK Valleys
Where:  P to K
Why:     Because it'll bug me until I've done it
Who:     Solo, unassisted
When:   10 December 2016
Map:     Map

Preparation

With regular trips over recent months my fitness is at a suitable level and gear all well tested. The trip is on marked tracks, apart from a section at the start down the Ruamahanga River. I don't like rivers at the best of times, so checked it out a couple of weeks back. I've been over almost all the rest of it at some time, although it's been a while for some parts, and I'm not looking forward to scrambling around slips on the Tauherenikau (the subject of a long standing DoC warning).

On Wednesday I figure I've recovered from the previous weekend's exertions but the forecast is marginal - the story of this summer so far. The Ruamahanga River gauge drops gently over the next few days though, so at midday on Friday I decide it's a goer.

The plan is to start early Saturday morning, see how the day goes, and either soldier on into the night or sleep at one of the huts en route. I have a weekender hut pack (i.e. sleeping bag, no tent, warm layers, food, emergency gear) which means more weight but also more peace of mind. All up weight (with water) is 6.7 kg.

I complete the usual intentions sheet and send it to my PLB contacts with outlines of various contingency options.

The route

The original SKs involved trains, rail cars and taxis to get from Wellington to the track end on a Friday night after work. In the grand tradition I intend to catch the Wairarapa train, but then to spend the night in Carterton for a comfortable sleep and a drop off at the track end by an understanding brother.

The route follows the major river systems in turn as they run parallel to the length of the Tararuas in the east of the range, before each exits into the Wairarapa to join the Ruamahanga. This means a series of saddles and rivers, with huts around the more popular areas. It also provides regular milestones to mark progress: 6 saddles, 5 river systems (not counting the Mangatainoka) and 7 huts.

The final act is climbing up Smith Creek to Puffer Saddle and the long sidle and descent to the new (to me) road end at Kaitoke.

Kick off

At about 0515 it is dim in the bush but more than enough light to not need a torch. The clouds are gathered and threatening in the west, but it's not cold. The track along the stream and up to the junction is familiar territory.

Record shot - 0517

The junction (right to the Main Range, left to Roaring Stag) after 0:52 is my first saddle and at 1:40 Roaring Stag is my first hut (score: 1,1,0). The wind is strong in the tree tops - the sort where you get a little jumpy at creaks and cracks from overhead.

There's no-one in Roaring Stag as I fill in the log book, pause briefly, and checkout the river. Probably half a metre lower than two weeks back so it is looking good not to use the terraces (the high route that avoids the gorge section at Cleft Creek).

First sunlight creeping down one of the many slips

It's much easier travel down river this time. I hardly use the terraces, and boulder hop most of the way to the bluffs, about 0:45 min after leaving Roaring Stag. It's still deep, and I can't touch the bottom in places through the bluffs, but a lot less of a proposition than last time.

Looking back up through the bluff section -
deep on the true right but navigable by holding onto the rock

0:20 min later the gorge above Cleft Creek is unmistakable. The river runs onto the right bank forming a deep section against the rocky side. It's no drama to cross upstream in thigh deep water with just a little help from a koro stick.

Start of the gorge above Cleft Creek

The other side provides bouldery travel and a short scramble along a rock face opposite Cleft Creek. The river broadens and slows and another thigh deep crossing is easily accomplished. The track is on the right somewhere up on a terrace; I potter down stream a short distance to find a way to scramble up. Three hours after leaving the carpark I'm standing on the track (1,1,1).

Cleft Creek

Gorge above Cleft Creek

River below Cleft Creek

The first thing that is apparent is that a track team has been through - ferns, grasses and saplings have been cleaned off at ground level and markers have been added - fairly recently by the look of it.

The track climbs alongside then joins Cleft Creek and I am soon standing at the stream junction, which two weeks ago took 2:26 from Stag Hut with the river up and using the terraces route. This time, using the river route and the new track, it has taken 1:38.

Bear right but keep an eye on the markers because the track soon takes a new route

The next surprise is that the track takes a completely different route to the saddle. Instead of following a side stream, it dives into the bush and grunts straight up a spur. Eventually it bears right and sidles and rises for a long while to eventually hit the junction in the saddle, right beside the sign post to Waingawa. I'm stunned - I had stood at this point two weeks ago and saw no sign of this track.

However, right now I'm a little more focused on ticking off the top of the second saddle. It's 09:06, about 3:50 in, score: 2,1,1.

It's a short hop down to wade across the Waingawa and arrive at Cow Creek Hut 18 minutes later (2,2,1).

Cow Creek Hut

The track is now a fairly typical Tararua River track. It potters along in the bush, on grassy flats, across slips and in and out of side streams.

About 1:50 later the rather elegant Mitre Flats Hut hoves into view (2,3,1). The weather is still holding.

Mitre Flats 

I don't have fond memories of the Barton Track that climbs to the next saddle. It is pretty much as I remember: a bit of a climb up, a long sidle with a wee descent, then a drop into a creek, and a bit of a mucky scramble out and up again. I'm also starting to feel the distance already traveled. It is nice however to get to the intersection with Baldy Track and join the track I traveled last week (12:54, 7:37 elapsed, score: 3,3,2).

Descending from the saddle, heavy drops start pattering through the canopy, and by Atiwhakatu Stream the rain has set in. It's warm enough though, so I don't bother with a jacket. Between the two routes up to Jumbo I meet my first people - a group of three women who are following the old track up to Jumbo. We chat briefly but I can't tell them much about that route.

40 min from the saddle Atiwhakatu Hut (3,4,2) and I'm chatting to a couple who are just leaving having come in for a day walk. After filling in the log book, I take a bit of time for lunch out of the rain. I'm thinking now about when dark will become a factor. It's looking good to get through Cone Saddle which I hadn't fancied doing at night (it's years since I've been up through there).

The track now is a veritable highway and familiar from last week. It is also crowded as I run into a couple more parties and pass the couple from earlier.

Leaving the Atiwhakatu Stream (3,4,3) and climbing the River Ridge I start feeling a bit under the weather. Consequently it's a slow ascent. I figure I haven't been getting enough energy in, and focus on slowly nibbling through bars despite not feeling like eating. Voices ahead indicate I've reached Pig Flat. This is the route to Powell Hut and Mt Holdsworth but, more importantly, another saddle (4,4,3). It's 9:50 on the go now.

The Totara Creek Track is new territory. Last time I traveled in this direction it followed down the creek. Now it stays on the ridge above, then drops down a spur to cross on a solid swing bridge. The track is well bedded in now. This part of the trip should be quick going but I'm still making somewhat heavy weather of it and concentrate on just ticking along.

Totara Flats Hut is pumping when I arrive at 4:50 (4,5,3). It's hard finding a space to sit and drip and fill in the log book. A tourist kindly offers me some gourmet chocolate, and is understandably a little nonplussed that I am intending to leave a perfectly good hut at this time of day and in this weather.

The grass on Totara Flats is carrying as much water as it can hold and consequently deposits cascades of it as I brush through. A pause for the customary gaze across to the location of Sayers Hut - no-one to be seen but there's a waft of wood smoke in the trees almost indistinguishable from the mist. A little further on, a distinctive tang on the breeze removes any doubt.

A 'new' bridge has improved access to Cone Saddle Track. I remember a trip with school mates when Makaka Creek was a torrent and we sensibly turned back for an extra night at the old Totara Flats Hut. While we were there Greame Dingle came through with a bunch of hard youngsters and a camera crew. Later we heard a helicopter go over and I think the story goes that someone got swept away in a river crossing - not fatally fortunately.

Cone Saddle - camera in bag because of rain

I plod up Cone Saddle and meet a party of young women doing a trip for their Duke of Ed, together with adult chaperons. They are off to Totara Flats.

My memories of Cone Saddle is of a false top followed by a long sidle then a final wee 'up' to the saddle. I'm downright slow now and it takes ages to get through the sidle. Two creeks are significantly up but still quite passable.

At the saddle it's 7:28 and still light, but I arrived at Totara Flats Hut 2:40 ago so it has been slow. Still, 5,5,4 feels like progress.

21 minutes later I take a break at Cone Hut (5,6,4). There's a chap from the Rotorua Tramping Club in residence. He has come down from Alpha but spent the day in the hut. He has plenty of time, no firm plans and - hell, why flounder around in the wet when you don't need to!

I take a good wee time to drip on the floor, don jacket (it's not so warm now), fill in the log book, chat and ... yep, basically farf about and avoid getting back out there.

With head torch ready in pocket I eventually drag myself away. By now I have pretty much resolved that I may as well see this through, so there's a long evening walking ahead.

The Tauherenikau is making itself heard today. It's considerably up and you would not contemplate crossing to the Bull Mound Track. I am slightly concerned that I will hit a creek that is impassible somewhere down river.

Just before 9pm the very last of the light sees me to Tutuwai Hut: 5,7,4 and 15:40 on the go. A couple have a tent on the flats - he is in the hut and is tossing up whether to sleep out or in. The rain has finally abated so I switch on my light, top up my water and head on into the night.

It's hard to gauge progress in the dark. The only thing that provides information about the world beyond my torch light is the roar of the river. I know there are some slips to scramble around and the track does potter along and up and down - at one point there's a knotted rope but there's not much to indicate what's in the blackness below - very comforting!

I see numerous possums; ghostly in the light - twin pin prick eyes that look, disappear, then look again before heading up the nearest tree. A couple of times larger animals slip off into the undergrowth. When the track bears away from the river the odd Morepork can be heard. Otherwise I follow the tunnel through the trees and try to watch for markers and my footing at the same time until suddenly, I'm trying to make sense of what turns out to be a swing bridge support.

This is a major milestone. There have been no real navigational difficulties or impassable streams. I find out later that the rain had hardly touched the Wairarapa so the streams on my side of the river had hardly received anything whereas the Tauherenikau had had an ample dump in its head waters.

The interminable meander down river is now reduced to less than two km to Smith's Creek on a gentle track then the final climb to the final saddle. I don't even notice the shelter as I head past.

I confess to disliking this part - it can never be over fast enough. Smith's Creek represents the worst of accessibility, with the shelter often filthy and abused. The clay track beyond the saddle is lethal in running shoes and there's gorse among the scrub. Not good reasons to be so down on it - it's more likely to be something to do with usually being pretty much buggered by the time I get to this point and just wanting the pain to stop.

Picking my time I pop a gel tube with the idea that it will have well kicked in by the time I start up the wee climb to the saddle. Along the way there is a long standing bypass around a slip which I ignore - the route through is perfectly serviceable, even at night. Then the long drag up the valley, hanging out for the last stream crossing, which marks the short climb then sidle to the saddle: 6,7,5 - it's after midnight and, at last, I have run out of numbers.

There's cell reception now so I wake the long suffering support crew from her slumbers and she very gamely agrees to meet me at the road end. I'm somewhat surprised that it is quite a distance down to the new carpark by the entrance to Kiwi Ranch so she arrives only 10 minutes or so after me.

In the end, according to the time stamp on my start and finish photos, it took 19 hours and 43 minutes from P to K. Nice to finally get that out of my head - just the Tops version to do now. But not in one go I think.

Lessons

There's a few things that I would do differently when I don't ever do this again ...

My food choices were somewhat random; an assortment of bars, some emergency gels and can of sardines. I had enough but the bars proved to be a bit rich and hard to get down when I was feeling the pinch. Definitely need a little more thought.

A nasty case of chaff that had me walking like a cowboy for the next few days could have been prevented - tights are great for cool weather travel but do tend to rub a bit.

There are plenty of escape routes - I should have committed and not carried the extra weight of a sleeping bag and one of the extra layers.

I had a bit of a scrape on my forearm from last week and was a bit concerned about ripping the scab off and getting it infected. A telfa pad with a sleeve made from a nitrile glove with the fingers cut off to keep it in place worked brilliantly.

I was pretty stiff and sore for the next few days with the normal odd bruises, numb toes and the like, also a few wee spots where friction from clothing or pack straps had rubbed the skin off. Nothing that a bit more fitness and care wouldn't prevent. I also developed an interesting facial rash that could have been chloracne but for the absence of dioxin. It took a few days to clear - probably not shingles - possibly a heat rash, but seems a bit weird.

Running shoes were good and light but were lethally slippery on wet roots and rocks. Surprisingly I only got a couple of wee blisters but by the end it felt like someone had taken a rattan cane to my feet. I think I need something with a more aggressive tread, a bit of an instep and slightly more rigid sole.

Eastern Tararuas Reccy

Ruamahanga river to Holdsworth via Jumbo

Solo weekend tramp

The plan is for a through trip in the Eastern Tararuas exploring some tracks I haven't been on; all on the Topo map and theoretically well marked.  During the week a southerly dumps cold air on Wellington. Daytime temperatures drop by 5+ degrees and black puffer jackets displace hoodies as the garment of choice amongst the younger contingent. The southerly blows through to give a clearish Friday but a promise of rain and a wintery weekend.

The weather forecast is for rubbish on the Saturday and wind on the Sunday so most of the trip sticks to river valleys and low saddles, with a review on Sunday for a possible dash across the Holdsworth-Jumbo tops.

Some complicated logistics to get a car at the Holdsworth Road end involves a very pleasant dinner at Salute in Greytown on Friday night and a comfortable night at Aidan and Janne's.

Saturday

It's an early start from Carterton and the rain starts on the way to the Mt Bruce Road end (just off SH2 before the bridge at the bottom of Mt Bruce).  It's a cold and blattery exit from the car, and quickly into rain gear, which stays on for the rest of the day.

The track at the road end doesn't have much to advertise its presence; a single orange triangle and faded poison warning, but it is exactly where its marked on the map. One car is parked already.

The route follows a farm track for about a km before briefly jumping 100m up the hill over a spur before dropping to a large farmed terrace high above the river.  Markers are sporadic but it's reasonably straight forward as a quad has been through.

A group of three youngsters are returning from a hunt but don't have much to say to a single tramper.  I can see why they might come here as fresh pig rootings start to become very common; at one point virtually destroying the 4WD track.

At the end of the flats, scrub and bush start and a single (what I presume is private) hut stands with smoke coming from the chimney; the quad is parked outside. 

Rounding a corner the sound of a pig squealing from up the hill slowly becomes louder. A little further on, a father and son with guns are standing looking up the hill. The occasional bark can now be heard. The hunters are just returning from a hunt and say the chap up the hill is not with them, but had just arrived and his dogs had got onto a pig immediately. The squealing comes closer and directly towards us, occasionally a tree shakes.  After this has gone on for 10 minutes I get bored and head on up the track. But not before the hunter mentions that he has "cleared out all the Parries". I assume he means paradise ducks, and wonder why he would think that this could be considered anything other than pretty sad.

The sidle track up the Ruamahanga is long but usually doesn't climb too much. Its pretty rough in places with the loose boulders off the slopes above and old river terraces together with tree roots, making for tricky footing. Although it keeps at a fairly consistent height I think it would be pretty tricky to find your way by torchlight.

Occasionally there are streams cut down into deep slots that require a bit of clambering. The river below keeps a constant background noise and, although its calm under the canopy, the wind can be seen driving rain down the valley. The bush is saturated and drips constantly, but it's pleasant travel.

A little over two thirds of the way to the Cow Creek turn off, a larger stream has the remains of what must have a two (or three) wire bridge. Its easy to cross today but it drains a large catchment running all the way up to Blue Range Hut so could probably come up pretty high.  An ageing sign marks a route up to Roaring Stag Hut (the route is not marked on my map) and then the turn up Cleft Creek to Cow Saddle.

The climb is reasonably straight forward at first but the track decides to follow the creek bed, and there is a singular lack of markers to indicate that this is the case. A bit of dithering and map checking and I decide to head up the stream, when I look back I see it is marked better for the trip down. Once my eye is in, the distance between markers becomes less of a worry. The point where the track leaves the stream bed and dives up the final 200m to the saddle isn't particularly well marked either. But if you keep your eye on your left (true right) a track inclining up out of the steepening stream gully takes you up and up to Cow Saddle.

In the saddle the track up to Waingawa is well marked and soon after, there is a sign and a short way into the bush a faint trail up to spot point 810 and eventually the Blue Range Track. Not today.

Descending from the saddle, the track follows a different line than the map, emerging on the right bank (not left!) of Cow Creek. Then it proceeds to climb away from the river, where the map says it sidles across a slip. I waste some time back tracking and having one of those moments where the tracks don't match the map. It turns out that the track now climbs over the slip, a reasonable change but, together with the track mysteriously migrating across the stream, the dissonance between the map and what I can see causes a bit of confusion. However it's not long to cross the bridge over the Waingawa River to Cow Creek Hut; a pretty standard facility.  A bite, drink, map check, log entry, break out gloves and balaclava and eventually depart at 1215.

The map shows a fairly straightforward track down valley close to the river and not climbing or dropping much. The start is easy going as is the odd flat or old river terrace, and the track is generally in better nick then the Ruamahanga leg. However, it ducks and dives over slips and the toes of spurs and skirts up streams to cross. In a number of places track marking is less than helpful so it's somewhat slower than expected.

About 1430 Mitre Flats Hut heaves into sight. Nobody is in residence and, according to the log book, have not been since 10 days ago. The 'new' hut looks well worn in but comfortable, with plenty of space.

This is my first scheduled assessment point; night-over here or continue over Barton track to Atiwhakatu Hut. Departing at 1445 I know it will be tight for light given a DoC time of 4 hours. However, I'm confident of trimming time off the estimate and that the track near the hut will be navigable by torchlight if necessary.

The track crosses Mitre South Stream via swing bridge and dives up Barton Track. A 200m climb up a well-formed track turns into an up and down sidle on a variable track. Again there are places where track markers are fine in the opposite direction but not the way I'm going. I wouldn't like to do this part of the track in the dark.

Eventually the track levels into and through the saddle a three way intersection marks the track up onto Baldy and through to the three Kings and beyond. I take the drop to the swing bridge over Atiwhakatu and on down the valley past the turn-off to Jumbo Hut. The track is better but it seems to take a long time to cover the 2 or so km to the hut.

About 15 minutes short of the hut, two youngish hunters are heading out taking their rifles for a walk. They report that it will be just the three of us in the hut for the night, which is welcome news.  It's pretty dim at 1710 when I finally sit on the hut verandah to remove soaking shoes. By the time the hunters return dinner is well underway, and we chat about various trips and experiences in the Tararuas.  They are friendly and good company.

Sunday

The hunters have a radio and report gale-force winds for Sunday.  The morning is clear and I decide to head up to Jumbo and assess; leaving about 0800.

It's about an hour to climb 700m, first into sunshine and then to the hut just above the bush-line. Jumbo Hut has a stunning view with the Wairarapa laid out in bright sunlight to the horizon, behind there is a bit of clag blowing over from the direction of MacGregor.  The wind is getting up and it is nippy.  I assume that the wind will be a lot stronger on the tops and the clag will likely come in from the West and North.  As I have the right gear, the map shows pretty straight forward navigation and it's a well travelled route I am comfortable to continue.

View from Jumbo Hut

Climbing the final 200m to Jumbo, the wind coming up the gullies from the top of the Atiwhakatu catchment is pretty boisterous.  And the peaks to the North and North West are hidden in cloud.  From the top, the base of the main range is visible across the Waiohine Valley but the tops are shrouded.  

Top of Jumbo - looking northwest

and looking southeast

The route along the ridge gets more interesting as the wind rises and the clag starts to close in. The view west disappears, then the view east.  At the top of the East Holdsworth Track (my intended descent) it is impossible to walk in a straight line.  However, it's not far to the top of Holdsworth and an alternative exit down to Powell Hut if necessary.  I decide to push on.

The wind through the low points in the ridge is now very strong, and it's hard to keep footing. 

The signpost then the trig are welcome sights in the clag but with nothing to see I am content to walk once around the trig, closing the link to the previously travelled track over Holdsworth a few weeks ago.

The return to East Holdsworth Track is even more exiting.  The wind is now smashing into the ridge and at times my feet slide sideways in the gravel as I stand braced, leaning into the wind unable to lift a foot.  At a couple of points hunching behind a lone tussock is the only way to avoid being knocked over; as it is, I narrowly avoid being thrown into a tarn and take a few minutes break hunkered behind a mound in the track donning a bit more kit.

At the turn off to my track, the wind dies to nothing as soon as the ridge top is a few paces behind.  The sound of it whistling across the tops stays in my ears as I descend to the peace of the bush.

The track is pleasant and easy to follow as it drops towards the Atiwhakatu Valley.  At one point there is an old track marker with "water" scratched on it.  I suspect this relates to where the track passes close to a stream at spot height 1093.  The cloud is also behind now and the sun filters through the beech trees.

I think I prefer this route to the Raingauge Track from the ascent earlier in the day (and nothing to do with the fact that I am now descending).  Shortly before the bottom the respectably sized Holdsworth Creek comes into earshot and then eye-shot on the right.

At the bottom the track joins the highway up the valley, 4km from the road end.  It's easy going through pretty bush with the lightest drifts of misting rain descending into the sunlight from the tops.

Having only seen the hunters during the trip so far I now pass 7 groups before finally throwing a damp pack into the car at 1235, about 4hr 40 since leaving Atiwhakatu.  I wonder what Aidan and Janne are having for lunch ...