Tararua double crossing

There are many classic traverses of the Tararuas; the length of the main range, the Southern Crossing, various mid-range options and many themes and variations on north-range crossings.

Easter provides four days for exploration - the autumnal weather and impending roar introducing interesting wildcards. I have my eye on crossing east-west via the craggy Bannister ridge, returning along the well-traveled Tarn Ridge (with a number of diversions of course).

Before you notice that I didn't fully cross to the other side (the west) ... I admit I didn't take the extra few hours to head downstream from South Ohau Hut to the western park boundary. The climb and crossing of the tops is the challenge I was after - adding the stream section would just have been tedious.


What:     There and back northern crossing of the Tararua main range, plus spot-heighting
Where:   In at Kiriwhakapapa, cross Bannister Ridge, return via Tarn Ridge to Mikimiki
When:    Easter 2018 (30 March - 2 April)
Who:      Solo
Maps:

Large scale

Start and finish

The middle bits

It's dark at Kiriwhakapapa. A bit north of Masterton, this is one of the tidier road ends with shelter, toilet block and smooth grass for camping. Brother number one has (again) kindly offered to do the pick-up and drop-off as I will be exiting at the next road end south (Mikimiki). At the last moment he offers me a reflective vest as the roar is about to start and not getting shot is fairly high on my priority list.

Another party is gearing up - four plus a dog. They are heading to Arete Hut too and joke that they'll race me for the bunks (two only) then say they have tents so no worries. I'm hoping I'll get beyond Arete but it's my first decision point.

7am I head out by head torch. The track up to Blue Range hives off immediately into a Redwood groove but (as usual) there is a spot-height I want to pick up. So I follow the old logging tramway bench south west by a creek until a loop track crosses the creek and climbs onto the foot of a spur. I leave this track to push up through sparse undergrowth and a bit of supplejack to pt 510. The dawn sun angles in between the hills to scatter orange light across the tree trunks.

Dawn

It's a pretty easy climb to join the main track at about 760m to arrive at the ridge track at 8.45.  Judging from marks on the track the other party have been through already.

Blue Range is part of the series of hills that I think of as the eastern foothills of the Tararuas. They are flanked on the west by the rivers (Ruamahanga, Waingawa, Atiwhakatu, Waiohine, Tauherenikau) and the Wairarapa plains to the east. They offer a lot of below bushline offtrack exploration.

Today I follow the track over the top and towards the descent to the Waingawa River, pausing at the odd window that gives views to the tops. I catch up with the other party just before the descent. The day is promising to be clear and hot.

End of Table Ridge

The party are intending to drop to the river then climb to Cow Saddle but decide to follow my lead down a spur directly to the Saddle.  Fortunately it goes smoothly (happy to get myself lost but wouldn't like to be responsible for doing it to others). I'm aware that the route is traveled and there does turn out to be some old markers and a bit of a foot trail but it isn't always that obvious.

There's a couple of lasses that are new vets in Dargaville and their blokes. The lass with the dog seems to be the experienced one with a fair amount of tramping and climbing down south under her belt.

A bit after 10.30 I leave them in the saddle after pointing where to drop to the creek for a top up. The saddle here is broad and shelves gently to the north east (Ruamahanga), there's a couple of tents off the track - a reminder that there will be a few people about because of Easter.

The day is decidedly hot now and I am regretting opting for a bushshirt as I sweat my way up - it will be hotter on the open tops. There's still more windfall on the track than there really should be on a marked route. The wee stream crossing near the bushline is barely trickling today.

Waingawa River

At less than 1000m the bushline is low. The last piece of shade prompts a pause to lose the bush-shirt (retaining the fluoro-vest) and slather on sunscreen. Onwards and upwards.

Apart from the odd fluffy cloud this is the sort of day where you get to identify more and more of the surrounding landscape as the vistas open up with your ascent. I'm most keen to study Table Ridge (which I will be traversing on Monday) and, when they come into view, Bannister Ridge (today) and Tarn Ridge (Sunday).

Table Ridge

There's a few deer barks drifting up from the slopes to the south of Waingawa but I'm more focused on the view so get a hell of a fright when a head pops out of a shrub and whispers a greeting. A hunter is guiding a couple of his mates to stalk a stag just off the north of this spur. He has a sawn-off  soft drink bottle and uses it to give a few roars - prompting a response from the gully. They are the owners of the tents in the saddle and have already got one deer this morning. At midday he reckons it's getting a bit hot and the deer will be heading back into the scrub to rest up, but this one is worth a crack.

I watch for a while before continuing up and leaving them to it - reaching Cattle Ridge about 12.30.

Waingawa - left. Ridge to Bannister runs right

Waingawa itself is an easy wander up. There's a modest tarn on the way up and a larger one near the top but I'm past both before I see them and can't be bothered heading back to top up from the brown looking water. It's a bit surprising that the larger one isn't marked on the map (I had been alerted to this).

From Waingawa I'm expecting it to get interesting. The ridge is reportedly fairly lumpy with some rocky scrambles - it's supposed to take about 4 hours to travel the approx 3km to the main range.  To the left (south) steep spurs and faces drop to Arete Stream up to 800m below (potential exit routes and a hut). On the right, the remote and rugged headwaters of the Ruamahanga River (gorges, no hut and not recommended).

After a while, a fluro pink dot indicates the party of four is weaving their way down through the tussock off Waingawa. A couple of times a bark drifts my way on the breeze. I hear later that the dog was fine most of the time but freaked out on one climb so they had to find a bypass on the north side of the ridge.

Overall the route is straight forward. It's quite physical with lots of up and down and there are about four hand-over-hand sections where you know you have to be careful, but they are generally pretty short. For those of a nervous disposition there are options to scramble through scrub and up gullies on the north face to avoid the climbs.

Although it starts hot, I notice that the clouds are starting to gather in the west. However, running out of water is the more immediate issue.

Climbing to the point before 1513 I see some heads peeking over the horizon above - 5, no 6 deer line the ridge and are gazing down at me with ears perked. They watch for minutes while I swelter upwards, one is a stag with a fairly modest rack. Finally, a hind barks and the heads swing around to follow her down and away.

At the top there is a large and very fresh wallow - a lovely way for a hot deer to cool down. The deer themselves have disappeared down into Bannister Basin and are nowhere to be seen. Later, a hunter tells me that deer will frequently create wallows, including below the bushline. And all this time I have been blaming pigs.

About now I notice that the sporadic fluffy clouds are starting to get organised and hold hands in the west. It's still hot with little wind. At the top of Bannister (1537m and about 2.15pm) the view has disappeared. I'm feeling the affects of the sun and lack of water so keep on at a slower pace. There are a couple of puddles on one of the Twins which I normally wouldn't look at but make an exception on this occasion. I'm pleased that at least the dog is behind me.

The view disappears 

and comes back - last approach to Bannister (I think)

A few breaks in the clag show the basin at the top of Arete stream - it's like a wee hanging valley forming a gentle U from the ridge I'm on across to Arete biv. I reckon it could be a short cut from this ridge rather than climbing right up to the Main Range. Sure enough, a bit later, a couple of cairns lead off the side of the ridge into the cloud. It develops into a ground trail which sidles then drops into the basin. At the bottom I expect to see a stream but it seems to be buried. There's an old sign indicating that the hut is not so long away, I work my way up the other side and past the loo.

It's 16:15, cloudy and still. There's one chap at the hut and I quickly bags the other bed before guzzling down a belly full of water. There's plenty of daylight left but the options for going further would involve finishing under torchlight and camping out - put it down to heat stroke but I'm wimping out and staying put.

The other chap has been out for a few days already compared to my one. We are shortly joined by another solo tramper who admits he hasn't got a tent and claims the floor. Chap number one gives him a hard time about turning up at a two bed hut at Easter with no tent - then admits he doesn't have one either. I don't mention that I have a fly and biv bag.

Voices drift out of the mist from above (Arete), and from the basin I crossed. It seems a party of three is descending from the main range and the party of four is dropping from Bannister Ridge into the basin (it turns out their voices were carrying about 500m). It looks like 10 people and a dog have designs on a two bed hut. 

Three voices must have got wind of four voices because they turn around and head back over the top. The clag parts and four voices (plus dog) become briefly visible making their way down into the basin. When they arrive I find out that the hunters got their second stag and we exchange our experiences of the crossing. They then get busy pitching their tents among the tussocks.

Much to the delight of chap number one, it turns out that one of the tents has arrived sans poles. It's not easy to bodge a fix for a modern, flexi pole tent without its poles. However, a couple of walking poles and the collective creative capacity of the group is up to it (I don't mention that I have a fly and biv bag - but prepare to produce them if needed).

As the shadows lengthen, the clag recedes and Bannister Ridge emerges into the afternoon sun. Soon after the shadows have chased the last of the light up the slopes, we are treated to the full moon rising over Bannister.

Bannister Ridge

The hut is comfortable - more so when the wind comes up during the night, periodically buffeting the hut with squalls of rain. A little before dawn, raised voices outside indicate that the bodge job has given up and the tent has collapsed. We wait for a knock on the door but the party packs up and heads off while I'm still drowsing.

Morning light reveals the sort of day best stayed in bed for. It is also the sort of day where the camera stays wrapped up - so no pictures I'm afraid. The other two get sorted and out while I potter about giving the hut a tidy before rugging up and following them.  They are both heading over Arete towards Te Matatwai.

In the conditions (and still feeling a bit drained from yesterday and the lingering effects of a cold) I've decided not to pursue the more ... optimistic option of climbing to Dundas and following a spur to the Mangahao valley. On the ridge, the wind is whipping up from the western slopes carrying a bit of rain. 

Over Arete and down, then a short rise to Pukematawai - a good ground trail and no navigation challenge despite the low visibility. This area is an interesting nexus. Major river and stream systems originate nearby and radiate to all points of the compass - the Otaki, Park, Mangahao, Ruamahanga, and Arete Stream (flows to the Waingawa). It is also where the main range intersects with the two significant northern crossing routes and Te Araroa heads off south.

I pass chap number two on the way up Pukematawai then hunker in the tussock to wait for him after taking a bearing for my spur - the last thing I want is to have him follow me off the top in the clag.

After he follows the track through, I head north dropping easily onto an obvious spur which, if all goes well, will drop me gently down to the Mangahao River. 

It starts well, tussock with some ground trail - but there is fairly extensive scrub. Sometimes there seems to be an old route through but it is easily lost so there is a lot bashing. In the clag I keep a close eye on the compass but there is one spot (about 950m) where I drop off the main spur - the clag clears just enough to take a bearing on Girdlestone Saddle and correct the deviation. 

Finally, below the  bushline the going gets easier and the faint trail is back again. On the lower reaches there is even evidence of an(other) old hunters camp. The rain is steady but not too cold and, at the bottom the river is crossable (unlike last (and first) time up this way).

Back on the track I head down river diverting once onto the base of Triangle Spur to pick up pt 630. There is a trail on the spur marked with sporadic pink tape but I lose it at the bottom to follow my nose across a broad terrace back to the track.

The rain settles in and I just about walk into a party coming the other way - I think it's the first time I've seen anyone else on this track although it is reasonably well travelled.

The next order of business is to drop to the river and climb the east valley wall (after sheltering under a tree for lunch). There's no trail on the steep spur I choose but at the top there is a faint old trail along the ridge. I head up ridge a short way to pick up pt 918 but flag the more distant pt 1025 as it's a bit scrubby and the weather is getting worse.

Coming back along the ridge I reach familiar territory at the spur down to North Ohau Hut. The track is now pretty easy to follow with old tape marking - we part company as it starts to drop towards Girdlestone Saddle. I navigate to the spur that drops towards the location of South Ohau Hut. It has some trail and is mostly good going with just a couple of tricky points. The bottom is mucky and loose as usual but I pop out in the right place in sight of the hut.

The Ohau is up but I'm comfortable making the crossing to the hut which is empty. It's 5.30.

The hut is a bit of a favourite, on a terrace at the junction of two streams - a pretty location.

View from hut

In the morning I'm heading out just before 7am - water levels have dropped and the rain has cleared. My route is upstream (wet feet) to Dowling Falls and Girdlestone Saddle. It's easy to follow although the first junction is not brilliantly marked (pretty obvious if you are following the map though). There are a few goats around this morning.

The junction to Dowling Falls and Girdlestone Saddle is well marked (not signposted). What the marking indicates (and the map doesn't) is that you climb the foot of the spur just before the stream junction.

I head up the stream bed which is narrow and slippery. The falls (7.35) are a short distance up and it is immediately apparent that you don't try to climb up the series of cascades. There are log jams and its all lethally slippery.

Rather than head back to the junction I bash up an old slip covered in rotten trees and bush lawyer (yeah ok, it probably does sound a bit stupid when you describe it like that).

On the spur top there's a marked track through some ridiculous tree fall. The track drops back to the stream aways above the falls and (I assume) meets a marked track to Girdlestone Saddle - I figure to bash straight up the spur to the track above the saddle. It's steepish but navigable - the sun is now beaming in but not quite enough to dry wet gear. On the way up a Piwakawaka takes an interest and approaches within 40cm of my face.

On the ridge (8.50) I turn right and follow the broad track to the intersection leading right to Te Matawai Hut (9.10) - I turn left for the climb to the main range under a clear sky.

Spur to Pukematawai 

There are some fresh prints on the track and a couple of figures high above - I close but don't quite catch them before they head south at the top.

On the way up I am treated to the sight of the spur down from yesterday morning - now naked to the sky. It's also clear why there are 'here-be-dragons' warnings about dropping into the Mangahao headwaters from Pukematawai - it is steep and the water course has some spectacular cascades.

At the ridge I head north to rejoin my tracks from yesterday - with plenty of pauses to look at the views.

Mangahao headwaters

Yesterday's spur

Yesterday's spur - Girdlestone Saddle behind

Arete

Across upper Park Valley

Spur down on right, up on left 

Pukematawai - yesterday's spur running right



From Arete to Mitre 

Bannister Ridge from south east face of Arete

Arete Hut terrace

Back at Arete Biv around 11am, I make a note in the log and head off for Tarn Ridge. I traveled part of this route with some mates when I was at school, but have no recollection of which bits - just that it was clagged in and we kept on getting blown off our feet. So, this is pretty much all new.

There's a bit of cloud in the west that periodically blows in but it stays pretty clear.

Rather than take the direct route along the ridge to my destination for the night (Tarn Ridge Hut) I have two side trips. A short one up to Lancaster (1504m at the top end of Carkeek Ridge) and a longer one to a spot-height (1295) on Pinnacle Spur (on the route down to Arete Forks Hut).

Lancaster takes a few minutes and gives lovely views over the upper Waiohine Valley and along Carkeek Ridge - reviving memories of another trip. It's about 12.10 now so plenty of time in the day.

Bannister Ridge

  

Upper Waiohine 

Tarn Ridge to right

Pinnacle Spur is not so quick - it's a steep descent with a number of lumps. There's a reasonable trail but still a bit of a scramble. It goes give nice views though - north east across the valley, the afternoon sun throws shadows that accentuate the rugged faces of the Bannister Ridge. At 1pm I'm still relaxed about the time.

Pinnacle Spur (right) and Bannister

Pinnacle spur towards Tarn Ridge Hut

Bannister Ridge 

Back on the ridge there's a few lumps to navigate before the broad flat top of Tarn Ridge. I can imagine that this would be interminable in clag and somewhat difficult to find the right exit point.

Another lump

There's a wee saddle after Tarn Ridge, then a few lumps before the hut. On one of these is the grave of a hunter that perished in atrocious conditions (1959). The cross is well weathered, and the remains are propped in a cairn. behind is the hunter's intended destination - Dorset Ridge.  

Back to Tarn Ridge

Waiohine Valley, Dorset Ridge on left

Shortly after the grave the next knob gives a view of the hut.

There are clothes hanging on the deck - indicating zero chance of an empty hut. At 1530 I could keep going over the top but I've had enough for the day.

There's one crook hunter in his pit and a messy hut. His mates are out hunting down into the Waiohine basin. I give him some panadol and relax in the afternoon sun.

The hut has two double layer sleeping platforms so there's plenty of space for four of us. They're not too noisy but I'm not feeling chatty so pretty much keep to myself.

The morning brings clag and wind. The hunters are heading out via Mitre so I'm up first and out at 7am, before anyone else stirs. 

Although not cold the wind is strong and there's a bit of all-fours required to get to the top of Girdlestone. From here is new territory. There's a good ground trail along to Brockett (0800) but from here I leave the main trail to Mitre and head off along Table Ridge. 

In the clag I pause often to take bearings. It would be a doddle on a clear day but in order to stick to a bearing I find myself (more than once) among clumps of spiky spaniard, and once plunge thigh deep into a foot width hole.

The wind is smashing into the nor-west slope and howling gleefully over the tops. I lurch and stagger along like a drunken sailor but there are no real challenges until dropping into the saddle after pt 1478. It's a bit rockier and the ridge is sharper. There's cause to pause in the lee of the ridge a few times to regroup and a few diversions to avoid the most exposed edges in the wind. 

I reckon I've got to 1390 - the last high point before I find my spur down. The top is broad again and it's still clagged in so I'm taking bearings when I sense a lightening in the sky. I race for the edge of the ridge and sure enough, the clag swirls away to reveal a sunlit spur plunging to the bushy valley far below (a little to the left of where I was aiming). It disappears quickly but it's enough.

It's still quite a proposition to get off the tops - the wind chucks me over more than once and, although there's some ground trail, it's quite a staggery, stumbly course that I set. The lower I get though, the more the clag is shredded off the tops and the more sunlight on the tussock.

At 0950 I hunker down inside the bushline and take a breather - the wind is slashing through the low canopy but my ringing ears are settling and it's calm on the mossy floor.

It takes about 1hr10 to the bottom (1100) picking up the spot-height that is the objective of the exercise (550). The spur has a good shape and a ground trail most of the way. There's a bit of a mucky bit towards the bottom where it is somewhat broad and indeterminate, but nothing the compass can't solve. It would be a good route up.

I'm now following the main trail down the Waingawa but leave it to scramble up to pt 610, finding a hunters rubbish heap on the way (beside the stream just north of the Mitre peak track spur).

610 

It's approaching 1pm and I have a river and a ridge between me and the road end at Mikimiki. The wind is still strong and more than once I find myself casting a weather eye upwards for branches. It pushes me around a bit on the river crossing but I'm soon back in the bush climbing steeply up towards Lookout Point.

I don't know why it's got that name because there sure ain't any view spots - today I figure it is a warning about falling branches. Where there is a choice I am avoiding areas with higher likelihood of branches dropping on one's head.

The canopy starts high but towards the top it has dropped and there is a lot of totara and other saplings. About 1435 I have reached Bruce Hill and found a trail with milk bottle cap markers. Last time I came through was a day trip the length of Blue Range - I got tripped up a bit and ended up on the wrong spur whilst negotiating a change between maps. This time the strongly marked track running south east is my friend. 

Part way down there are some breaks in the canopy and I can see cloud, rounded by wind, still hugging the tops.   
   

Someone has gone to some effort to mark the route down. There are patches of windfall though, so more than once I have to cast around to find the trail again - still, progress is a lot quicker than I was expecting. I lose the track near the bottom but not before I have polished off the final spot-height for the weekend - 535. I crash down through supplejack and slide over a steep bank to drop onto the tramway track. Suddenly it's literally a stroll in the park for 10 minutes to the park boundary. 

At the boundary a sign informs me that it's two hours to Kiriwhakapapa via the old tramway - I reflect that at four days, my route was hardly a short cut, but it was far more interesting.

It's a lovely sunny afternoon so it's no hardship to wait while brother number one works out he's at Kiriwhakapapa and I'm at Mikimiki.

Postscript

Quite a productive (long) weekend. Some really varied terrain - the Bannister ridge is great fun; some weather challenges and a bit of scrub on the Saturday; great views along Tarn Ridge; and a bit of a hiding from the wind whilst navigating Table Ridge. And of course, at least 26 new spot-heights knocked off (possibly more if my recollection of the trip with school mates plays me false).

SK Valleys

A few years back someone rather carelessly told me about a traditional challenge of 'doing' the length of the Tararuas in the space of a weekend. They should have had more care - the idea lodged and it was pretty much inevitable that at some point I would have a go. Without going into all the details, it is called the 'SK', or the Schormanns - Kaitoke, after the start and finish points. The Schormanns Track no longer exists so you leave from the nearby Putara Road end, but somehow 'PK' has not caught on - shame, it has a bit of a ring to it.

There are a couple of main options and lots of variations - the Valleys route is easier and more direct. The tops is longer and, not surprisingly, more exposed with considerably more up and down. Records exist for assisted and solo efforts, and the times being posted now are superhuman.

When I say 'easier' the Valley SK is still a small matter of 74km and a net climb of a little under 3400m.  I'm not chasing a record though - I'd just like to get the idea out of my head.

What:   SK Valleys
Where:  P to K
Why:     Because it'll bug me until I've done it
Who:     Solo, unassisted
When:   10 December 2016
Map:     Map

Preparation

With regular trips over recent months my fitness is at a suitable level and gear all well tested. The trip is on marked tracks, apart from a section at the start down the Ruamahanga River. I don't like rivers at the best of times, so checked it out a couple of weeks back. I've been over almost all the rest of it at some time, although it's been a while for some parts, and I'm not looking forward to scrambling around slips on the Tauherenikau (the subject of a long standing DoC warning).

On Wednesday I figure I've recovered from the previous weekend's exertions but the forecast is marginal - the story of this summer so far. The Ruamahanga River gauge drops gently over the next few days though, so at midday on Friday I decide it's a goer.

The plan is to start early Saturday morning, see how the day goes, and either soldier on into the night or sleep at one of the huts en route. I have a weekender hut pack (i.e. sleeping bag, no tent, warm layers, food, emergency gear) which means more weight but also more peace of mind. All up weight (with water) is 6.7 kg.

I complete the usual intentions sheet and send it to my PLB contacts with outlines of various contingency options.

The route

The original SKs involved trains, rail cars and taxis to get from Wellington to the track end on a Friday night after work. In the grand tradition I intend to catch the Wairarapa train, but then to spend the night in Carterton for a comfortable sleep and a drop off at the track end by an understanding brother.

The route follows the major river systems in turn as they run parallel to the length of the Tararuas in the east of the range, before each exits into the Wairarapa to join the Ruamahanga. This means a series of saddles and rivers, with huts around the more popular areas. It also provides regular milestones to mark progress: 6 saddles, 5 river systems (not counting the Mangatainoka) and 7 huts.

The final act is climbing up Smith Creek to Puffer Saddle and the long sidle and descent to the new (to me) road end at Kaitoke.

Kick off

At about 0515 it is dim in the bush but more than enough light to not need a torch. The clouds are gathered and threatening in the west, but it's not cold. The track along the stream and up to the junction is familiar territory.

Record shot - 0517

The junction (right to the Main Range, left to Roaring Stag) after 0:52 is my first saddle and at 1:40 Roaring Stag is my first hut (score: 1,1,0). The wind is strong in the tree tops - the sort where you get a little jumpy at creaks and cracks from overhead.

There's no-one in Roaring Stag as I fill in the log book, pause briefly, and checkout the river. Probably half a metre lower than two weeks back so it is looking good not to use the terraces (the high route that avoids the gorge section at Cleft Creek).

First sunlight creeping down one of the many slips

It's much easier travel down river this time. I hardly use the terraces, and boulder hop most of the way to the bluffs, about 0:45 min after leaving Roaring Stag. It's still deep, and I can't touch the bottom in places through the bluffs, but a lot less of a proposition than last time.

Looking back up through the bluff section -
deep on the true right but navigable by holding onto the rock

0:20 min later the gorge above Cleft Creek is unmistakable. The river runs onto the right bank forming a deep section against the rocky side. It's no drama to cross upstream in thigh deep water with just a little help from a koro stick.

Start of the gorge above Cleft Creek

The other side provides bouldery travel and a short scramble along a rock face opposite Cleft Creek. The river broadens and slows and another thigh deep crossing is easily accomplished. The track is on the right somewhere up on a terrace; I potter down stream a short distance to find a way to scramble up. Three hours after leaving the carpark I'm standing on the track (1,1,1).

Cleft Creek

Gorge above Cleft Creek

River below Cleft Creek

The first thing that is apparent is that a track team has been through - ferns, grasses and saplings have been cleaned off at ground level and markers have been added - fairly recently by the look of it.

The track climbs alongside then joins Cleft Creek and I am soon standing at the stream junction, which two weeks ago took 2:26 from Stag Hut with the river up and using the terraces route. This time, using the river route and the new track, it has taken 1:38.

Bear right but keep an eye on the markers because the track soon takes a new route

The next surprise is that the track takes a completely different route to the saddle. Instead of following a side stream, it dives into the bush and grunts straight up a spur. Eventually it bears right and sidles and rises for a long while to eventually hit the junction in the saddle, right beside the sign post to Waingawa. I'm stunned - I had stood at this point two weeks ago and saw no sign of this track.

However, right now I'm a little more focused on ticking off the top of the second saddle. It's 09:06, about 3:50 in, score: 2,1,1.

It's a short hop down to wade across the Waingawa and arrive at Cow Creek Hut 18 minutes later (2,2,1).

Cow Creek Hut

The track is now a fairly typical Tararua River track. It potters along in the bush, on grassy flats, across slips and in and out of side streams.

About 1:50 later the rather elegant Mitre Flats Hut hoves into view (2,3,1). The weather is still holding.

Mitre Flats 

I don't have fond memories of the Barton Track that climbs to the next saddle. It is pretty much as I remember: a bit of a climb up, a long sidle with a wee descent, then a drop into a creek, and a bit of a mucky scramble out and up again. I'm also starting to feel the distance already traveled. It is nice however to get to the intersection with Baldy Track and join the track I traveled last week (12:54, 7:37 elapsed, score: 3,3,2).

Descending from the saddle, heavy drops start pattering through the canopy, and by Atiwhakatu Stream the rain has set in. It's warm enough though, so I don't bother with a jacket. Between the two routes up to Jumbo I meet my first people - a group of three women who are following the old track up to Jumbo. We chat briefly but I can't tell them much about that route.

40 min from the saddle Atiwhakatu Hut (3,4,2) and I'm chatting to a couple who are just leaving having come in for a day walk. After filling in the log book, I take a bit of time for lunch out of the rain. I'm thinking now about when dark will become a factor. It's looking good to get through Cone Saddle which I hadn't fancied doing at night (it's years since I've been up through there).

The track now is a veritable highway and familiar from last week. It is also crowded as I run into a couple more parties and pass the couple from earlier.

Leaving the Atiwhakatu Stream (3,4,3) and climbing the River Ridge I start feeling a bit under the weather. Consequently it's a slow ascent. I figure I haven't been getting enough energy in, and focus on slowly nibbling through bars despite not feeling like eating. Voices ahead indicate I've reached Pig Flat. This is the route to Powell Hut and Mt Holdsworth but, more importantly, another saddle (4,4,3). It's 9:50 on the go now.

The Totara Creek Track is new territory. Last time I traveled in this direction it followed down the creek. Now it stays on the ridge above, then drops down a spur to cross on a solid swing bridge. The track is well bedded in now. This part of the trip should be quick going but I'm still making somewhat heavy weather of it and concentrate on just ticking along.

Totara Flats Hut is pumping when I arrive at 4:50 (4,5,3). It's hard finding a space to sit and drip and fill in the log book. A tourist kindly offers me some gourmet chocolate, and is understandably a little nonplussed that I am intending to leave a perfectly good hut at this time of day and in this weather.

The grass on Totara Flats is carrying as much water as it can hold and consequently deposits cascades of it as I brush through. A pause for the customary gaze across to the location of Sayers Hut - no-one to be seen but there's a waft of wood smoke in the trees almost indistinguishable from the mist. A little further on, a distinctive tang on the breeze removes any doubt.

A 'new' bridge has improved access to Cone Saddle Track. I remember a trip with school mates when Makaka Creek was a torrent and we sensibly turned back for an extra night at the old Totara Flats Hut. While we were there Greame Dingle came through with a bunch of hard youngsters and a camera crew. Later we heard a helicopter go over and I think the story goes that someone got swept away in a river crossing - not fatally fortunately.

Cone Saddle - camera in bag because of rain

I plod up Cone Saddle and meet a party of young women doing a trip for their Duke of Ed, together with adult chaperons. They are off to Totara Flats.

My memories of Cone Saddle is of a false top followed by a long sidle then a final wee 'up' to the saddle. I'm downright slow now and it takes ages to get through the sidle. Two creeks are significantly up but still quite passable.

At the saddle it's 7:28 and still light, but I arrived at Totara Flats Hut 2:40 ago so it has been slow. Still, 5,5,4 feels like progress.

21 minutes later I take a break at Cone Hut (5,6,4). There's a chap from the Rotorua Tramping Club in residence. He has come down from Alpha but spent the day in the hut. He has plenty of time, no firm plans and - hell, why flounder around in the wet when you don't need to!

I take a good wee time to drip on the floor, don jacket (it's not so warm now), fill in the log book, chat and ... yep, basically farf about and avoid getting back out there.

With head torch ready in pocket I eventually drag myself away. By now I have pretty much resolved that I may as well see this through, so there's a long evening walking ahead.

The Tauherenikau is making itself heard today. It's considerably up and you would not contemplate crossing to the Bull Mound Track. I am slightly concerned that I will hit a creek that is impassible somewhere down river.

Just before 9pm the very last of the light sees me to Tutuwai Hut: 5,7,4 and 15:40 on the go. A couple have a tent on the flats - he is in the hut and is tossing up whether to sleep out or in. The rain has finally abated so I switch on my light, top up my water and head on into the night.

It's hard to gauge progress in the dark. The only thing that provides information about the world beyond my torch light is the roar of the river. I know there are some slips to scramble around and the track does potter along and up and down - at one point there's a knotted rope but there's not much to indicate what's in the blackness below - very comforting!

I see numerous possums; ghostly in the light - twin pin prick eyes that look, disappear, then look again before heading up the nearest tree. A couple of times larger animals slip off into the undergrowth. When the track bears away from the river the odd Morepork can be heard. Otherwise I follow the tunnel through the trees and try to watch for markers and my footing at the same time until suddenly, I'm trying to make sense of what turns out to be a swing bridge support.

This is a major milestone. There have been no real navigational difficulties or impassable streams. I find out later that the rain had hardly touched the Wairarapa so the streams on my side of the river had hardly received anything whereas the Tauherenikau had had an ample dump in its head waters.

The interminable meander down river is now reduced to less than two km to Smith's Creek on a gentle track then the final climb to the final saddle. I don't even notice the shelter as I head past.

I confess to disliking this part - it can never be over fast enough. Smith's Creek represents the worst of accessibility, with the shelter often filthy and abused. The clay track beyond the saddle is lethal in running shoes and there's gorse among the scrub. Not good reasons to be so down on it - it's more likely to be something to do with usually being pretty much buggered by the time I get to this point and just wanting the pain to stop.

Picking my time I pop a gel tube with the idea that it will have well kicked in by the time I start up the wee climb to the saddle. Along the way there is a long standing bypass around a slip which I ignore - the route through is perfectly serviceable, even at night. Then the long drag up the valley, hanging out for the last stream crossing, which marks the short climb then sidle to the saddle: 6,7,5 - it's after midnight and, at last, I have run out of numbers.

There's cell reception now so I wake the long suffering support crew from her slumbers and she very gamely agrees to meet me at the road end. I'm somewhat surprised that it is quite a distance down to the new carpark by the entrance to Kiwi Ranch so she arrives only 10 minutes or so after me.

In the end, according to the time stamp on my start and finish photos, it took 19 hours and 43 minutes from P to K. Nice to finally get that out of my head - just the Tops version to do now. But not in one go I think.

Lessons

There's a few things that I would do differently when I don't ever do this again ...

My food choices were somewhat random; an assortment of bars, some emergency gels and can of sardines. I had enough but the bars proved to be a bit rich and hard to get down when I was feeling the pinch. Definitely need a little more thought.

A nasty case of chaff that had me walking like a cowboy for the next few days could have been prevented - tights are great for cool weather travel but do tend to rub a bit.

There are plenty of escape routes - I should have committed and not carried the extra weight of a sleeping bag and one of the extra layers.

I had a bit of a scrape on my forearm from last week and was a bit concerned about ripping the scab off and getting it infected. A telfa pad with a sleeve made from a nitrile glove with the fingers cut off to keep it in place worked brilliantly.

I was pretty stiff and sore for the next few days with the normal odd bruises, numb toes and the like, also a few wee spots where friction from clothing or pack straps had rubbed the skin off. Nothing that a bit more fitness and care wouldn't prevent. I also developed an interesting facial rash that could have been chloracne but for the absence of dioxin. It took a few days to clear - probably not shingles - possibly a heat rash, but seems a bit weird.

Running shoes were good and light but were lethally slippery on wet roots and rocks. Surprisingly I only got a couple of wee blisters but by the end it felt like someone had taken a rattan cane to my feet. I think I need something with a more aggressive tread, a bit of an instep and slightly more rigid sole.