Abel Tasman Coastal Challenge

Abel Tasman Coastal Challenge

28 September 2012, Running event, Abel Tasman
Andrew and Richard

The Abel Tasman Coastal Challenge is a one day event taking a limit of 300 runners from Awaroa Inlet to Marahau following the impossibly gorgeous coastal track. Track conditions are excellent and the event is well organised by the Nelson Striders (the web site is under the banner ‘Nelson Events’). The distance varies depending on who you talk to, but is about 36km. This may change as there is a rumour that they will run a longer route next year. There is an option for supporters to take a boat trip to walk the last 14km from Torrent Bay.

Being a late initiate into running and quickly finding tarmac to be a little tedious, heading off-road was inevitable. A cursory web search reveals that there are an ever-increasing choice of intimidating but spectacular events. Richard, an old college mate and companion on various hare-brained adventures in our youth requires no encouragement.

Unfortunately, our first attempt founders with the cancellation (after we’d trained up) of the 2011 Tararua Mountain Race, due to SARs resources being required for the second Christchurch earthquake. It’s a while before our affairs coincide sufficiently for a repeat attempt and it is the Abel Tasman that catches the eye. A training schedule is drafted up and largely ignored as we try to fit a few ‘hit outs’ around work, family and winter weather.

We take the Friday morning ferry and have a leisurely trip to Marahau via the Slip Inn Havelock (try the seafood chowder) and the Sprig and Fern (takeaway riggers of good craft beer). Friends have booked a house in Marahau just around the corner from the registration point so we have a very relaxed evening in which to savour the ‘riggers’ of pre-race nerves.

The organisation on the day is seamless. At 7am we register at Marahau, board a bus to Kaiteriteri then a scenic boat ride to Awaroa. The morning is cool, but sunny as we study our map and the passing coastline to get a feel for what the next few hours will bring.

There’s a short walk from the boat to the starting point on the Awaroa airstrip with a few competitors being taken aside for random gear checks. The compulsory gear feels very modest compared to the average Tararua day pack. A few duck into the lodge to use the facilities and here we must offer a thought to the punter whose race ended when he tripped and tore something vital while exiting the loo.

As the field lines up and warms up, we acknowledge the Royals of the event; these are the three gentlemen who have competed every year since the race’s inception. Truly impressive; we speculate about how none of them could possibly consider being the first to miss a year, and whether the last man standing wins a car.

Under starters orders ... (note the two fine specimens mid-photo)

The horn goes and the pack sets off down the airstrip with yahoos and cheers. Those in the know put on a bit of pace in order to beat the queue that forms where the track narrows to single file.

This is one of our great walks so there is beautiful bush with view windows opening over secluded golden beaches and an emerald sea. There are mossy waterfalls, granite outcrops and at times the track meanders through cool bush along a bench cut at the water's edge. However, our focus is less on the aesthetics and more on the two meters of track ahead.

Support during the race is good and the most obvious wrong turns are marked. Supporters, volunteers, and residents appear at various points throughout the event to bolster spirits and provide water and snacks. The day is calm and sunny but the air stays blessedly cool under the canopy.

The track is mostly well packed and of gentle grade varying between 0 and about 150m, but there a lot of ups and down and a few steep sections to keep you on your toes. Things potter along well until Torrent Bay; 14km from the end. This is where we start to pay the price for a somewhat casual approach to training.

The last 10km are unrelenting; Richard’s Achilles is playing up and it is hard to judge progress amongst the trees. Each gentle rise sucks a little more from depleted reserves and the last few kilometres are interminable. We are not the only ones feeling the burn; the track is littered with souls who may have started the day at a slightly optimistic pace.

Still running ... just.

At the line I have nothing left and the first overwhelming emotion is absolute relief. It takes a few minutes to get around to feeling satisfaction at coming in under our 4 hour target; quickly followed by guilty relief at getting away with a somewhat slack training regime. It’s a few hours before cockiness sets in and we start contemplating what the next event might be.
 

The organisers provide pineapple at the end, a subway lunch then a generous meal in the late afternoon before prize giving. While the winning times are impressive (the overall winner is in our 40 - 49 age group so we didn’t stand a chance!), the highlight is the acknowledgement given to the oldest finisher. At 82, after well over 5 hours on his feet his standing ovation is well deserved; what a legend.

 

 

 

Comments

No regrets and a great deal of enjoyment. I am very pleased to have been part of this event. At $195 it feels quite expensive but you get: a unique run, scenic boat trip, support during the run, lunch and dinner... and a bunch of priceless memories.

There are limited entries so book early for the run and accommodation. Having accommodation nearby and a good group to share it with was fantastic. We left a car at the race end which meant a quick shuttle back to our accommodation.

The race website left a bit to be desired, and they didn't offer a decent topo map of the course, however the organisation on the day more than made up for it. If you’re like me and want to be able to visualise the route, it would pay to get the Topo map and talk to someone that has done it to identify exactly where the track goes. DoC and others have contour graphs of the coast but not all of them follow the same route (e.g out of Torrent Bay).

The time of year means the weather isn’t too hot but you are training through winter. Do a fair amount of hill training; although the route only climbs to about 140m, it bounces up and down throughout the race and by the time you reach Torrent Bay the legs are feeling it. It’s not like running over a mountain where you know it’s all downhill at the end.

As with any longish off road event, unless you’re fit and experienced, I suggest getting advice and planning your training, gear, hydration and nutrition carefully. Knowing the course is an advantage, especially in the final stages where the run through the bush seems to go forever.

Finally, there are limited pre-race loo opportunities so get into the queue on the boat early!

Mt Reeves Run

Mt Reeves Run

Sunday 10 June 2012
Solo training run

When I say 'run' there was a bit of walking on some of the steep bits I'd have to admit.  This was a training trail run getting a bit of a test on hills and knocking off a track I hadn't been on before.  As it was one of my early attempts at solo trail running I paid a bit of attention to distances and times and kept some notes about gear etc.

Summary

Distance is 22 km based on DoC estimate at track end (11Km and 4½ hrs tramping time to Tutuwai hut); start elevation about 135m; maximum 899m; forecast for a mostly clear day, some scattered cloud and a front coming through late in the day. Day stayed clear despite ominous clouds spilling over Neill Ridge; little wind.

Depart car: 0820. Arrive top: 0945. Depart top 0955. Arrive Tutuwai: 1020. Depart Tutuwai: 1043. Arrive top: 1130. Depart top: 1135. Arrive car: 1240.  4hr20 total. 3.42 on the go (1hr25 up, 25 down, 47 up, 1hr5 down). 38min of stops.

Finding it

Take the first left in Greytown (Challenge petrol station) follow your nose towards the railway station, cross the lines and turn right at the T. Potter along for 4ish Km to where it ends with a DoC sign board on a turn around area with some farm tracks leading off beside stock yards.  This is on the true right of the Waiohine River. 

The trip

Once you’ve done the track over to Sayer Hut, it’s just a matter of time until you pick off Mt Reeves. At 899m it’s the highest point on the ridge between the Tauherenikau, Wairarapa and Cone Saddle. The Topo map tells you it has got clearings at the top and is likely to have panoramic views of the Wairarapa as well as up into the Tararuas. And it doesn’t disappoint.

Driving over the Rimutaka Saddle the Wairarapa is cloudless and the sun starts to crack the horizon on the straight between Featherston and Greytown. A glance at the Topo map the night before is sufficient to navigate to the road end on the right bank of the Waiohine. At the end of a gravel road it has the feeling of being reasonably out of the way for leaving the car.

There’s a little bit of frost about; sufficient to want to stay in the car as long as possible getting ready, and to put gloves on for the start. There are no other cars about, which is a mild surprise as Tutuwai via Mt Reeves looks like an ideal weekend jaunt.

The track starts from the ‘car park’ (= turnaround bay) and follows a gravelled farm track for about a km and up 80m. An easily seen orange triangle and Doc sign points under an electric fence and up a paddock. A post in the middle indicates that you’re on the right track and stooping under the electric fence at the top (240m) is a good excuse to turn and look at the view across the winding Waiohine River towards Greytown, before disappearing onto a rough track up through the pines.

Track conditions are a bit messy for the first few minutes as the track cuts SW across a loose soil slope transiting from pines to native bush. From there, the track has a good rock base but the surface goes from slippery moss to slippery clay to slippery tree roots and, in the open parts, slippery rocks.

It’s a slow climb to the top as the track meanders around and up. Getting from 700m to 800m is particularly interminable. There are plenty of open sections which provide views requiring a passing glance (and pause for breath). A largish animal crashes away through the trees in a couple of spots, and a sign notes that the three wire bridge over Coal stream has been removed (I think this marks a route through to the bridge at the main Waiohine road end). The bush alternates between beech with mossy ground and open scrub patches. Finally the track decides to jump up to 899m.

Low scrub at the top allows views across the Wairarapa. To the west and north the peaks of the Southern Crossing disappear into cloud and the jagged profile of Neill Ridge is also shrouded at the top and looks thoroughly uninviting. Here, and in the Wairarapa, though, it is clear and sunny.

A quick text, and (out of mild interest) a short fossick in the scrub for a geocache, burns a few minutes at the top. As the going has been good, and the weather looks like it will hold in line with the forecast, the trip down to Tutuwai is on.

The track meanders west, along and down slowly for a little over half a km, through open scrub, then drops into the bush, and starts to descend. The descent is easy for a while so a reasonable speed is possible. So much so in fact, that as I come hurtling around a corner the leading lady in a group coming up the track shrieks in terror. They had apparently noted a pig wallow in the track and been following the culprit’s trit-trotting prints up the ridge. Heart rates are up all around.

Between 700 and 600m the slope eases then it drops steeply from 500m to emerge beside the hut at 300m.

A party of two women is booting up to head down to Kaitoke (and hopefully find their car); two other chaps are a bit slower, and are also heading out the same way. It’s a good excuse to stop for 25 minutes to have a chat, fill in the log book, have an OSM and drink, and look across the Tauherenikau River at the foot of the Marchant Ridge. The sky is clear and blue apart from the occasional cloud drifting over Marchant and dissipating in the sun. The roof steams as it heats in the morning sun.

But procrastination can only be spun out for so long. The 600m climb is not particularly inviting but has to be tackled. Running is not really an option now so it is first a bit of a ladder climb through the humus under the moist lower slope forest then into the easier going and less steep mossy beech then on and up through drier under-storey and finally the clay and rock on the upper slopes. The last half km in the sun to the top is a little slow.

At the top the three trampers are just about to get on their way again. They have been using mirrors to flash their friends down near Greytown (successfully). Their car is at the usual Waiohine road end and they are taking a track that runs down the Coal Stream catchment. It is not marked on my map but they say it is easy to follow. Sounds like a good round trip.

There’s not much more to be said about the trip down. Tired legs make the footing even more tricky but eventually the pines are behind and it’s some ginger picking down through the cattle churned paddock to the farm track and back to the car.

Track notes

It was easy to find the start. It’s a bit rough for the first wee while but at around 300m it develops into a solid track up the winding ridge which is easy to follow. There are occasional wind falls but nothing dramatic. A few boggy patches around the tops didn’t look like they would get too bad. The East side is a bit rougher due to the steepness and a few more windfalls but again is well formed and easy to follow.

Gear notes

Running in old cycle shorts, light merino top, off-road runners, cap and gloves at the start to maintain body temperature until warmed up. Rolled sleeves up and down depending on heat. Started to cool off at the top but not too bad. 4.7Kg Camel back: full water, 2 squeeze gel, 2 OSM, balaclava, running tights, gloves, jacket, 2nd light merino top, over trou, emergency kit, map, compass, cash, cell phone (good cover at top and probably for most if not all the trip up Eastern side).

Body notes

Felt the early signs of a cold coming on the night before but felt OK in the morning. Blisters from previous weekend were fine, bruised big toe joint still annoying but didn’t affect running. Managed to jog pretty much wherever track conditions made it possible; knees were fairly sore on the eastern (final) descent making it a bit exciting on the slippery surface. West side mostly too steep to jog but a good fast walk is possible on the way up. A bit of warning cramps from the back on a couple of stumbles.

Eating and drinking

Ate an OSM at Tutuwai; drank about half the water and although no problems it was probably not quite enough. Need to start sipping earlier!

Mt Matthews run

Orongorongo: Mt Matthews Run

Saturday 26 May, 2012
Solo run

Another solo trail run as part of preparation for the Abel Tasman track in September.  I keep picking hills you can't run up though!

Summary

Distance 21+ km(?); 4hr 25. Start elevation about 50m; maximum 941m. Forecast for sun but high cloud developed quickly. A cool northerly was only really noticeable near the top.

Depart Catchpool car park 07.50. Trot through Orongorongo track then up the river bed to the junction with Matthew’s stream at 08.45. Arrive at the top approx 10.15 and potter about for about 10 minutes (after a pause on the way up to overlook the saddle). Return the same way; Matthew’s junction at 11.15 and car park at 12.15.

The trip

The Park gates open at about 07.40 so the last minute getting ready stuff is done in the car while waiting for the ranger. A few cars have been in the park overnight but no sign of life until three older gents turn up to maintain stoat lines.

As expected, no other souls are to be seen until returning down Mt Matthews (one chap wandering up). There are a few signs of life on the way down the Orongorongo River and a few groups of people walking in along the Orongorongo track near midday. Some wheeled traffic has been up the river bed recently and a ute is parked up near Big Bend.

The Orongorongo track is easy going; repairs are underway but nothing tricky. The river bed is also good going along the vehicle tracks. The morning sun clears the hills in a few places shining the length of the valley and requiring the peak of the cap to be kept low.

Turning into Matthew’s stream the rocks are more jagged, and the stream is clearly moving things around pretty actively, so more care is required with footing. The route runs up the creek then departs to follow a track up the ridge, at exactly the point marked on the map. The track up is generally pretty easy to follow.

It’s basically a scramble straight up with a brief 30m down hill around 400m. After that there’s the turn off to South saddle (around 550M) which is also the route to the south coast down Mukamuka stream. Shortly after, the track breaks out of the bush giving good views over the saddle, down to the Coast and across ridges and hills towards Wellington.

The track skips along the ridge briefly then ducks back into forest and keeps climbing. It’s still a fair way to the top from here. The approach to the top is through forest and there are a few false alarms. Don’t get excited until the track has dropped off the back of the ridge and approaches the top from the South via a not so old slip which has thrown trees and rocks into a jumble which you have to scramble through.

The views are good. After the clearing above the saddle there isn’t a lot to see until a view of the Wairarapa explodes in your face. A window opens through the tress and suddenly there is light reflecting off the Ruamahanga River; Lake Wairarapa peering around a ridge and somewhere in the distance across the flats; Martinborough and the Eastern Hills. Further along, there are views of Lake Onoke and the Coast as well as back towards Wellington.

The top is marked by a short steel pole behind a fallen tree. Next to it is a geocache; it’s just tied to the tree with no real attempt to hide it. Mind you, I don't think many people would want to lug an ammo box back down with them.

After admiring the view, firing off a text or two and taking a few photos on the phone it’s time to follow the foot prints home. The down hill requires considerable care and attention to avoid catching a toe and pitching face first over a drop off.

A search and rescue team are in the car park and look to be heading out for some practice. I’m earlier than expected so they’re not for me.

Gear notes

Running in old cycle shorts, light merino top, off-road runners, cap, gloves at the start to maintain body temperature until warmed up. Rolled sleeves up and down depending on heat during the scramble up. Started to cool off at the top but not too bad. Camel back: full water, 1 squeeze gel, 1 gel tube, 2 OSM, balaclava, UnderArmour tights, gloves, jacket, 2nd light merino top, over trou, emergency kit, cellphone (good cover at top and probably on most of the higher parts).

Body notes

Took an easy pace from the start and maintained it reasonably well, even at the end. Started getting pretty tired towards the top and needed a few pauses. Return trip down was fine though the short uphill at around 400m showed the stamina had dropped right off. The legs were pretty tired by the bottom but kept ticking over down the valley after a couple of minutes rest at the junction. Started to get a bit crampy and slow on the up hills along the Orongorongo track. Kept a reasonable pace through to the car park although not much to come and go on by the end and wouldn’t have been able to lift the pace at all.

Eating and drinking

Ate an OSM on the way to the top (starting around 650m) and finished a gel tube on the return: starting at the junction and finishing it at the halfway bridge – felt that it was very much needed. Drank about a litre and a half throughout; this wasn’t enough.

Felt knackered and old for the rest of the day and slept like a log that night (a log that wakes up and whimpers every time it rolls over).

Useful Information

Watch the opening and closing times on the park gates. DoC time estimate on the website is one day for fit trampers and on the park notice board is 10 hours.

Map:
http://www.topomap.co.nz/NZTopoMap?v=2&ll=-41.35186,175.014353&z=14

DoC track description:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/wellington-kapiti/wellington/mt-matthews/

Geocache
http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_details.aspx?wp=GC1BKN4

Orongorongo - McKerrow loop run

Orongorongo: Catchpool - McKerrow loop

Saturday 19 May, 2012

Solo


Another training run for the Abel Tasman.  And again a track that I had wanted to pick off at some point.

Summary

15km, about 2½ hr. Start elevation about 50m; maximum 706m. Definitely cool southerly; cloudy with occasional showers.

Depart Catchpool car park 2.30pm. 1/2 hr trot along Orongorongo track to McKerrow track. An hour to the top (with a short overshoot due to misreading the map; quickly rectified – it always pays to double check!). A bit under an hour down Clay Ridge and 1.8Km back to the car park along Five Mile Loop track (not Middle Ridge) by 4.55. Although there are cars in the car park the only other people to be seen are two workers with a digger on the Orongorongo track and a woman with two children.

The trip

The Orongorongo and Five Mile Loop tracks are highways; McKerrow more of a tramping track. It’s a steepish scramble in places but has trottable sections particularly above 500m. Rooty footing; lots of leaf humus so a bit slippery. There are boggy patches towards and at the top. Clay Ridge track joins from the west near the top (wooden post in middle of track). The top is unremarkable; a short steel post in the track under a high canopy. If you keep going, the track starts dropping with some clearings which give a view Northish over Wainuiomata (just visible through the rain and cloud).

Returning from the top, turn right to Clay Ridge; a largely gentle; joggable descent. Near the top a view West and North across Wellington harbour opens up: from the south coast to the Hutt hills. The southerly is pushing rain up the Wainui Valley and the sun breaking through over Wellington back-lights the scene. Later on the sun comes in under the cloud lighting up the Catchpool hills and throwing up a rainbow. Clay Ridge’s name isn’t explained until lower down where the typical yellow Wellington clay shows through.

All tracks are generally well cleared, sign posted and easy to follow – there are a few downed trees on Mt McKerrow and a couple of points where a marker isn’t readily visible; but generally it is pretty obvious.

Gear notes

UnderArmour tights, light merino top, off-road runners, cap. Marginal at top during showers. Camel back: 1 gel, 1 OSM, balaclava, gloves, jacket, poly jersey, over trou, emergency kit, headlight, cash, cellphone. Didn’t check cellphone for most of the trip but had good coverage at the top and got a text part way down Clay Ridge. Some calf cramps after the top were held at bay most of the way to the car park by a gel.

Useful Information

Watch the closing times on the park gates.

Map:
http://www.topomap.co.nz/NZTopoMap?v=2&ll=-41.331147,174.959759&z=14

DoC track description:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/wellington-kapiti/wellington/mt-mckerrow/