Kahiwiroa Crossing

How do you create a beautiful Tararua crossing? It seems you do it by accident. This trip was an elaborate attempt to pick up four spot heights above the Aokaparangi Stream (between the Main Range and the Otaki River).

When you think about it, the Tararuas are defined by rivers and ranges. Locations and features are described by their relationship to its spines and its arteries. So ... a trip that immerses you in the Otaki, climbs the main range via a little visited valley, then plunges for a swim in the Waiohine before scaling Mt Holdsworth. All in the space of two days - is a pretty good cross section of what the Tararuas represent.

What:    Tararua crossing and nav trip
Where:  Otaki forks to Holdsworth via Kahiwiroa
When:   9-11 February 2018
Who:     Solo
Map:



Kahiwiroa Crossing - with a little side excursion

A little after 7.30 on a Friday evening the support crew takes a snap of a natty tramper about to potter off from the Otaki Forks car park.



Before ...



First slip - looking down river

The aim is to find a spot to camp an hour or so up the Otaki gorge. Last time through there were a couple of terraces that looked promising.

It's a bit easier getting to and across the first slip having been through once before. I'm hoping to get to the second big terrace but in the end find a spot after an hour, towards the end of the first and pitch the fly as the light starts to fade. The DD Hammocks super-light weight fly is just that - and is quite narrow so it takes a bit of farfing to get it right.

The night is quiet apart from the odd spot of rain and occasional small animal of the scampering-around-in-the-leaves variety.

It's pleasant to wake with the light filtering down through the canopy and break camp in the dry to head off about 7am.




The start - camp site approx at blue triangle

When I was here previously, I followed the old track to the big slip and lost it. This time I keep my eyes peeled and still end up at the slip with no sign of an alternative. I work gingerly down the side of the slip to the river.

Slips come in a variety of flavours - this is not one of those fresh crumbly ones that you can gaily scree run down - no, it's old and cantankerous. There's steep crumbling rock which may or may not hold your weight at each step, with a skiff of grit to make it more interesting. If you start sliding you just know you'll emerge at the bottom like you've been through a tumble dryer full of belt sanders.

On the other side of the slip I scramble up the valley side to see if I can see the old track but give it away after half an hour of precarious thrashing around and descend to follow the river. It's about 8.50am.

Afterwards - a helpful colleague suggests that if you just bash up beside the slip and over the top you eventually pick up the old track again on the other side of the stream. The old maps website indicates that in 1979 the track crossed the stream and climbed over the hill to Penn Creek but a section of track also followed up the gorge - I didn't see any sign of it but may not have climbed high enough.

Otaki River - clear and low

As previously, there are a few scrambles around deep bits and some deep wades but all doable with the river low.  It's about 9.10am when Penn Creek hoves into sight, shortly followed by pt 148, then the spur to Pakihore that I took last time. Finally, new territory.

The river chews into the base of the Pakihore Ridge

The map is quite insistent that the next section is gorgy as the river skirts around the toe of the Pakihore Ridge. I haven't been able to find any hints online as to how passable it is, so have some trepidation as to what's ahead. It proves to be all navigable, although some rock climbing is required and I find myself swimming a short distance on a couple of occasions. I wouldn't go in on my own with the river up.

A bit of rock climbing - should have swum it

The gorge section is impressive and, much as I distrust it, it is almost sad to leave the river behind. I almost barrel past the mouth of the creek I want (it's either the Whatiuru or Aokaparangi - the map isn't clear which). At 11.30am it's four and a half hours since departure and two hours twenty from Penn Creek - so not rapid progress.

Looking down river - the narrow mouth of Aokaparangi/Whatiuru on left

From the gorge to the tops

The valley starts narrow with some clambering up the stream bed but soon opens for a very pleasant wander with a bit of sun occasionally cracking through the high overcast. There are a few spots you could camp and I reckon it would be pretty cool as I think the area is seldom visited. I heard tell there was once a Whatiuru Biv but no idea where.

Enjoying the walk too much means I neglect paying attention to location and time, a few minutes are consequently wasted confirming that I have reached the forks between the two creeks. This is the point of departure for a completely pointless grunt up a very steep spur to reach an isolated spot-height.

I've been eyeing-up Pt 738 for a while and it looks as steep in person as it does on the map. It is also relentless. There's a bit of animal trail and the bush is reasonably open so it is hard and hot, rather than difficult work. My shirt is soon relegated to the pack.

The top, at 1.40pm is a relief and provides a little view of clouds on the slopes above and, on the way down glimpses of Aokaparangi creek far below but not a lot else.

The trip down is equally steep and a little more complex requiring attention to navigation and footing (who says I can't multitask). 40 minutes later at the bottom it does what spurs so often do in this country - leave you hanging tantalisingly close to the creek. A bit of casting about and a point to scramble off the slope eventually presents itself.

Forks on Aokaparangi at base of spur

The creek is cool, clear and welcome. Passed time for lunch. It's still too hot for a shirt but sufficiently overcast that sunburn isn't a concern. This really is an isolated bend on a stream among hundreds, and miles from anyway.

Not a naiad or dryad or a woodland nymph ...

The next section is a 1000m climb to the main range at Kahiwiroa via a promising looking spur. I have seen the odd report of trips through this spur and it is an obvious route to the tops but clearly not frequently used. I fossick a couple of hundred metres down stream and find a break in the precipitous foot of the spur and start to climb.

There is a bit of trail on the spur and it's easy to follow. Further up, there are breaks in the canopy that give views of the main range with clouds spilling over from the east.

Main range around Maungahuka

Dali forest at pt 1185

At pt 1185 (about 5.30pm) it finally feels that progress has been made. There's a bit of of a clearing on the knob and some beautiful goblin forest - also a slightly tricky bit of navigation to find the saddle before the final climb to the range, arriving at the top about 6.30pm. Kahiwiroa - 1320m.

I send a text to home command as I've decided that with rain forecast, rather than sleeping out I'll head up range to Anderson Memorial Hut for a comfortable night. I take the opportunity to check out the spurs down to the Waiohine and up the other side to Isabelle that I will be working through tomorrow. 

With the mucking around it takes about 50 minutes from the top of Kahiwiroa to Anderson Memorial Hut (7.20pm). As usual it takes a lot longer than expected to drop into the bush and follow the narrow ridge to the hut through mossy beech forest.

South down main range from Kahiwiroa

The hut is empty and warm. I settle in, cook dinner and check out the injuries from the day. A few bruises and scratches, rub points from gaiters, a big toe nail about to drop off (just after it's grown in again) but otherwise just the usual aches from all the climbing.

It rains solidly in the night but in the morning it is just a high overcast. The forecast is for heavy rain late afternoon.  While I'm here I've decided to pick up a couple of spot heights - the first is 1060 - a small bushy knob off the west of the range. It takes about 15 minutes to drop through scrub, and leatherwood into the bush and onto the knob. About the same to get back again.

Pt 1060 in foreground Waitatapia, Kapakapanui and a bit of Kapiti Island behind

Back on the main track I head north a short way then scramble up to pt 1226. It offers panoramic views and I take the time to recognise places I've been, places I'm going to go and places I'm about to go very shortly. Snow berries are buried in mossy corners and in among the tussock providing a bit of second breakfast. I finally drag myself away and head back to the hut - it's been an hour and a half diversion and not getting me any closer to my destination.

Spiky spaniard

So ... southwards, back along the bushy ridge and onto the shoulder of Kahiwiroa. After a bit of mucking around to get cellphone reception I text my intentions and pick a spot to depart the track and find the top of my spur. It's about 0915.

Looking north from the shoulder of Kahiwiroa up the Waiohine River valley

My spur on right - pointing at Francis Stream.
Spur leading up to Isabella on right 

There could be a trail in the tussock if you squint, but it's not up to much and easily lost. There's a bit of steep leatherwood to get through before the bushline which is much worse if you drift off the spur. Once among the trees it could be any spur under the familiar Tararua bush with a bit of ground trail which seems mostly used by game.

The route down should be straightforward, although the line of the spur proves a little hard to follow in a few spots. The main issue is not to get bluffed at the bottom as it drops to a marked gorge. I plan to drop north onto a spur at 700m that leads to a side creek.

The start of the side spur is a little tricky to find, but once on, it is strongly shaped. There's a lot of undergrowth and the rain starts in earnest so I am soon soaked through and berating my useless specs. It descends steeply and mossily.

At the base there is no apparent way off. The creek drops through waterfalls and the sides are high and crumbling. It's stopped raining but it's with a great deal of care that I sidle along the slope, eventually finding a route down to the river rather than the stream. I suspect it might have been a better option to follow the main spur then sidle to drop to the river.

No matter - it's just after 11am and the sun is striking mist off the river - loverly. It's just a short wander down stream to the start of the gorge.

Looking down river

From what I've read, this gorge has a bit of a swim to contend with. Water sensitive things like cell phones are stashed away and I wade in to the long calm pool and start working my way down the true right bank.  It would be a heinous scramble to avoid this section and to my eye there is no low level climbable route. I have a brainwave and blow as much air into my camelback as it will take, on the theory that every little bit will help.

The bottom drops away and soon may as well be a mile below my flailing boots. I use the odd purchase point on the bank to propel me forward and at last feel gravel under foot again. Whilst neither efficient, nor elegant my dog paddle has done the trick.

Looking back up the pool from Francis Creek

Francis Creek is narrow, dim, and mossy, it is also marked as gorge. By all accounts there is a route onto the spur a few hundred metres up. I'm not sure what to expect.

I don't see any obvious way out until I reach a very deep pool. The true left slope is steep but looks navigable so I start scrambling. There is supposed to be a recognised route up here but I don't see anything but goat tracks. The rain sets in heavily, making things a little more treacherous.

At 700m there is a flat spot on the spur where I figure anyone coming up from the stream will arrive - hopefully there will be some ground trail from there. A family of goats leave their shelter to precede me onto the flat where I take a breather. 

There is a fair amount of windfall up the spur so the trail is often not easy, but no more difficult than others spurs. Once again I have a diversion to execute - this time I detour south around the spur at 900m to reach the spur down to 754 - 1.50pm and another spot height down.

Very wet after swimming and climbing in the rain,
but apparently still relatively cheerful

From 994 (about 2.20pm) the ground trail gets stronger and it is a long but not difficult wander along the gently shelving spur until it steepens to climb to the bushline on Isabella. There are a couple of cairns in the tussock but not much foot trail. I think the trick is not to drift east as the scrub seems to be a bit deeper that way.

At the bushline (3.30pm), the source of the day's rain is apparent - the sky north is gloomy and squalls of rain can be seen approaching. The wind is strong but is at least pushing me uphill. It gets steadily windier and wetter.

More weather from the north.
From slopes of Isabella - my spur on left

Some good soul has trimmed the track over Isabella so it's easy to see your footing and the buffeting from the wind is a little less likely to trip you up. By the time I'm climbing out of the saddle towards Holdsworth the cloud has closed in and visibility is down to 50m the rain isn't cold so I don't bother with a coat and I don't pause at the top (4.20) before starting down the expressway to Powell Hut.

The home straight

The circuit from the Holdsworth road end up the Gentle Annie to Powell Hut, Mt Holdsworth and Jumbo, then down to Atiwhakatu to exit down the valley (or, in reverse if you prefer) is the closet thing to a great walk in the Tararuas. The tracks are well graded with lots of lovely infrastructure like stairs and drainage.

It's the sort of tramping experience I generally avoid but does allow for a reasonably quick exit from the tops to Powell Hut - I had thought the rain was heavy until just before reaching the hut when it really opens up. I thump onto the veranda amidst a tropical downpour about 4.40pm.

There are three souls in residence.  The young woman turns out to be the hut warden and is usually resident in Masterton - with her are two chaps that are doing a long trip and have come in from Tarn Ridge ahead of the weather.

I chat as I fill the log and interrogate the warden about the time to the carpark. She reckons two hours at fast pace.

The track has turned into a stream but I can potter along at a good rate down the flights of steps and along the well formed path with the rain pounding down. Feeling somewhat weary I can only muster a walk on the long flat section after Mountain House. On the down hill again I trot as much as possible and the rain clears.

It starts to get crowded after Rocky Lookout. A couple then two more with a dog are surprised as my disreputable figure shambles into sight around a corner and clomps off down the track. At the bottom, a couple of joggers then a group of teenagers wearing nothing vaguely tramping related (they were heard talking in the carpark about heading up to Atiwhakatu but wouldn't have made it by dark), then a few more people heading back to the carpark. The rain has blown through but it's still threatening so all this activity is a little odd.

At the carpark, a little after 6, and 70 minutes from the hut, the support crew administers ginger beer and sympathy in response to the old man noises that are produced as I divest myself of pack, boots and soggy gear.

... and after .... "Oooh - give me sympathy!"

Postscript

Tararua crossings are generally satisfying as they give the sense of having got somewhere, as well as having done something. This one was fantastic: marked tracks and almost forgotten tracks, mountain tops and gorges, swims and climbs, and some challenging navigation. To my mind it showcased some of the best the Tararuas have to offer.

Poads Road to Waiohine

Easter is looming and a few ideas are percolating around possible routes. Otaki Gorge being closed puts a dampener on a few plans, but eventually Plan A crystallises: Thursday arvo follow Te Araroa  into the north-western Tararuas (behind Levin), travel down the Main Range to exit via Waitewaewae, Otaki Forks and Waiotauru to Akatarawa Saddle. However, a number of Plan Bs are noted on the intentions sheet left with home command ... the main one being to connect at Waiohine with Mike, Angela and Toby who are over-nighting Saturday at Totara Flats. That is provided I can call-in the change - how did we ever tramp without cell phones?

Thursday 24th

We leave for the coast about 2pm smug in the knowledge that we will be beating the usual long weekend Kapiti traffic fiasco. Wrong; nose to tail until Waikanae and over an hour later than expected.

       

Kapiti traffic - Roll on the Express Way.

Much better at Poads Road Bridge
A little gloomy though.

Ready for action

At 5pm with sunset due around 7.30, the trip up to Te Matawai is looking ever more likely to end  in a bivvy beside the track. Te Araroa heads up Waiopehu Ridge giving the opportunity to stay at the hut at the bush line, but I'm taking the Ohau Gorge Track and up Gable End Ridge - so named (I assume) because it's a little like climbing the side of a house and wandering along the roof.

It's overcast and warm, so much so that at the bottom the shirt goes into the pack. The light gets dimmer until (7.15pm) the last gasp of evening sun angles in just under the cloud bank and just over the Waiopehu Ridge. The dim bush takes on the golden highlights for a few short minutes before fading into deeper gloom.

The track is reasonably easy to follow but eventually the fading light calls for the head torch. There's no signs of life from Waiopehu Hut across the valley as I come up and over Richard's Knob and join Te Araroa. The lights of Levin and possibly Palmerston North are briefly visible through the cloud.

It's quite a different proposition in the pitch black but I manage not to lose the track or fall off the edge. As it drops towards Butcher Saddle I'm concentrating on keeping upright on the slippery roots and only gradually notice the white noise of the river filtering up from the valley below. A couple of Morepork are exchanging calls from close by but not a chance of seeming them, otherwise it's a still and humid evening.

In the saddle the cloud filters through the trees scattering the headlight but finally there's a sign advising that left will take you to South Ohau Hut via Yeates Track or half an hour upwards to Te Matawai - and that's pretty much how long it takes, arriving a little before 10pm.

Judging by the log book, Te Matawai gets pretty good use and I'm lucky to have it to myself. The log is full of references to 'NOBO' and 'SOBO' - finally it clicks - it distinguishes between the NOrth BOund and SOuth BOund Te Araroa travellers.

Flashes and grumbles from a distant thunderstorm fail to materialise into anything more than some heavy drops on the roof and a bit of wind during a restful night.

Friday 25th

It looks pretty foul on the tops as I head away from the hut bright and early (well, 8.45). Pukematawai and the range to the north are invisible, but my route south down the main range intermittently peeks through. The view behind (norwest) however remains bright, with Te Matawai Hut gleaming in the sun staying visible most of the way up the ridge.  Beyond, Waiopehu Hut is just discernible if you know where to look.

Looking Back - Te Matawai Hut is the bright spec mid-left.     The near ridge runs down to Girdlestone Saddle, Gable End Ridge behind it and Waiopehu somewhere on the horizon

Looking up towards Pukematawai (obscured)

A little over an hour after leaving the hut, Pukematawai is inside a cloud with a decidedly cool and boisterous wind whipping over the ridge and trying to nick my cap. The sign at the top looms out of the clag with the cheerful advice that Dracophylum and Nichol Huts are a mere 3 to 7 hours away ... unspoken is the amount of exposed ridge between here and there.

Top of Pukematawai 200m away 

However the ridge drops away from Pukematawai and soon there is a reasonable view ahead with the Park River head waters below to the left and Te Matawai yet again visible in the distance - to the north now. I'm even thinking I might need to crack out the sunscreen. However, for the rest of the day there's more wind and clag and very little view to the east.

A more encouraging view south above Park Valley. 

The track is good going and easy to follow although the cloud soon closes in again. Across the valley a helicopter is operating - possibly on Carkeek Ridge - hopefully hunters and not a rescue.

I had been thinking of stopping for lunch at Dracophylum Hut, which is a small cheerful looking two berther, but it's only 11.30 so elect to head on for Nichols.

One for the hut baggers.

Coming over Nichols it's getting more seriously unpleasant and I'm conscious that there's a good few kilometers of exposed tops ahead including the highest point of my trip at Mt Crawford. I'm looking forward to a bit of shelter and a chance to fill up and rug up at the hut, which proves to be in good nick.

Around 2pm, cheese, salami and pita bread feed the inner man and raincoat and other pieces of kit are relocated from pack to person. The forecast is for the weather to clear. I'm quite comfortable in the conditions as they stand, and have extra layers should it deteriorate, so am happy to leave the hut and head on.

Leaving a perfectly good hut - Nichols.

With little view there's little point hanging around the tops so I count off the spot heights to and past Mt Crawford. I also grumble at myself for bringing glasses instead of contact lenses - the east-most lens misting over rapidly after each abortive wipe. Things are going well and I'm feeling pretty good so fish out the cell phone and text my intentions to switch to Plan B and the Waiohine Road end. A confirmatory response means a short stint further along the ridge to Anderson's rather than the long plunge to Waitewaewae.

There's two sets of fresh foot prints on the track so I'm half expecting company when I arrive at Anderson's Memorial Hut at 4.30. However, the log book indicates that the owners of the feet are heading on to Aokaparangi Hut. Being a two bunker I figure I might be a little less than welcome if I follow them, so call it quits for the day, hoping for another night with a hut to myself.

Anderson's Memorial Hut.

I was taken with this hut the first time I passed through with its situation on the edge of an alpine terrace enfolded on three sides by the bush. It's pleasing to see it in good nick and with an intact log book including my entry from three years ago.  There's also one SOBO entry from a poor soul who missed the Te Araroa turn off at Junction knob and has a little back tracking to do.

I don't need the fire as I'm looking forward to an early dinner, bed and undisturbed sleep.

Saturday 26th

The clag is still drifting past the windows in the morning but it could be a bit thinner above, so I'm hopeful of some better weather today. The clothes are not noticeably drier than yesterday afternoon, but it's not cold enough to be unpleasant. 

Departure time

The track dives straight into mossy beech forest to dip and then climb. 35 minutes after leaving I'm looking back from the flanks of Kahiwiroa at a bank of cloud with Mt Crawford above in the distance.

Mount Crawford and the range disappearing to the North

An hour 45 after leaving (and having shed some kit) I'm enjoying changing cloudscapes from Aokaparangi. A lot of the ridge travel may be in clag but the wind is light and the breaks provide some beautifully typical Tararua views.

North from Aokaparangi

I'm still following the footprints from the party that came through yesterday afternoon with some occasional fresh deer prints. After the turn off to the hut, the prints re-appear fresh so they have clearly regained the trail after a nights rest.

The way forward and South - a little gloomy

Forty five minutes later - much better!

My recollection of the next section is of several steep clambers and losing track of the number of spot heights. I do a little better this time but it is quite lumpy and I'm still expecting one more when I realise I'm ascending Maungahuka. The clag drops away behind and more of the main range is visible north and south. The wind has also dropped to a most uncharacteristic calm.

North from the shoulder of Maungahuka ...

... looking up to the hut ...

... and southwest to the Tararua Peaks ...
I swear I could see the ladder when I took the photo but can't spot it now.

Just before 12 I stop in at the hut to find that the footprinters have left 45 minutes ago after noting in the log book their nervousness about tackling the ladder.

At the top of Maungahuka I see two figures angling up a steep face beyond the peaks and can hear their voices in the still air.  They have clearly overcome any nervousness about the clamber but are too far away to be able to exchange information.

The peaks scarcely register with climbers but they are a little daunting to trampers for the first time. I was a bit hesitant about tackling them on my own so follow their progress with proprietorial interest, imagining how they'll be feeling and expecting that their enjoyment will be all the sharper for the passing nerves.

Decisions

Although it's tempting to carry on along the range, about 1230 I turn my back to follow my ridge down into cloud and a thousand metre knee-curdling descent.  The sun is hot for a brief period but thins as the mists thicken long before the bushline (1100m).

Down into the gloom

There's not much to say about the rest of the descent - the 100m rise over Concertina knob prolongs the agony but is a good excuse to stop for lunch. I also pass through the territory of a couple of fantails who flick by to see what's up and three rifleman who just go about their business barely giving a glance to my pathetic attempts to imitate their high-pitched sounds.

Eventually there are glimpses of bush rather than cloud across the valley and river noise from below. After the final scramble down, the trees open to show the crystal clear Hector River flowing over clean grey boulders. Also the gleaming white form of a naked man gingerly easing himself into the frigid water. I pause briefly until he's fully committed then trot out onto the swing bridge calling a cheerful greeting and condolences about the cold (hmm, that could be misinterpreted).  I'm probably the first person down the tracks in days so his luck is not in. Kudos to him though for a full immersion in a cold river on a cloudy day.

Naked man just out of shot to the left

It's 2.20 and Neill Forks Hut is just across the bridge. It's also full with a party from the Hutt Tramping Club including Naked Man. There's a couple of semi-pointed remarks about my intentions and the number of bunks, so I accept a cup of tea and indicate that I will be heading on.

Half an hour later I'm on the way up Cone Ridge for the second time in as many weeks, but from a different direction.  The knees quite rightly grumble about a 600m climb after the mistreatment down from Maungahuka. However, an hour later the ridge provides for more relaxing travel south in recently familiar territory.

Phew.

It's a little before 5 when I reach the tops at Cone. The cloud keeps coming and going and it is a little different to a couple of weeks back ...

Cone

Then and now ...

I figure I can make the road end before it's too dark, and there's cell coverage, but Brother Number 1 is away from home so can't do a pick up, and I don't relish camping at the road end. Cone Hut it is then.

It's a pretty quick trip down the ridge to the saddle stopping briefly for (another) fruitless attempt to capture the magic of sunlight through goblin forest.

As good as I think I'll ever get on my phone

There's another pause when I run into the tail end of a party of seven. It's 5.30 and he's going pretty slow, so too is his wife five minutes further on, and two young woman another five minutes later. At 6pm at the Saddle the other three are not particularly concerned about the progress of the rest of the party and elect to follow me down to the hut - I'm figuring the rest will be hobbling in well after dark.

At 6.30 I'm first at the hut and get dibs on the sleeping platform. A solo chap soon turns up from Kaitoke having eschewed the crowded Tutuwai, despite which he's keen for a chat and a chain smoke.

A little later the two women from the saddle turn up having left the third chap behind. The mystery of the mixed party is resolved - four of them are from Marsden College doing a Duke of Ed. trip accompanied by the required adult supervision that they arranged via face book. The son of said adults makes up the party. The parents and the other two students eventually turn up just before 9pm - much to my relief as, very selfishly, I wasn't keen on being on a search party.

They are having a fairly eventful time - the trip from Totara Flats Hut via Cone Ridge has taken almost 10 hours; one of them has impressively bruised her ankle (and is pretty upbeat about it), and the father is going through all sorts of agony due to various health conditions including the aftermath of a broken back.

After a few days of my own company it's pretty full-on, but the students are quite competent with what they are setting about and considerate.

The sleeping arrangements resolve into six in the hut, parents under a fly (by preference), and the solo chap on the table outside. I thought this was a little mad but it didn't rain and he was adamant he didn't require floor space in the hut.

Sunday 27th

There's is absolutely no hurry for me in the morning so I let the mayhem clear a little before I exit pit and arrange breakfast. Solo chap is tossing up exiting via Marchant or Dobson Loop and the other party is aiming to exit over Mt Reeves. The lass with the injured ankle is strapped up and the father decants gear to his family to lighten his massive load. The Duke of Ed team are packed first and have remarkably economical packs. Eventually the last of them head off and the hut is suddenly quiet in the morning sun.

Built in 1946 Cone hut has survived some recent vandalism but shows signs of continuing graffiti assaults by the mindless. A rather nice slab woodshed has been built with a small water butt from the roof and the uneven dirt floor has been covered with tidy plywood. I remember being very relieved to reach this hut on a previous occasion and hope it serves for many more years.

The sun streams through the trees for the trip over to Walls Whare which is becoming quite familiar. I meet a man and woman with rifle and dog on the way up but no-one else until the swing bridge. About an hour and a half after leaving the hut I'm hunting out Mike and Angela's car on a hot sunny day. They turn up a couple of hours later with Toby having enjoyed camping out on Totara Flats. In the meantime I've had a wash, dried my gear and brewed my last coffee sachet.

Coda

I was happy with how all my kit performed and it was great to finally negotiate the territory from Pukematawai to Junction Knob. The route was interesting and varied, with the capacity to be significantly challenging in bad weather. I reckon it would be doable in two days by the fit, but two and a half to three allows a little more time to enjoy the views, take a few pics and not have to leap out of bed early.

All up, a mighty fine long weekend.

Gear notes

Mostly used standard kit. The penny stove performed fine inside and in the open at the Waiohine carpark. Still wouldn't want to rely on it for trips not involving huts. Macpac bivvy tent was carried but still remains to be rigorously tested. Zamberlan boots continue to impress with their comfort, lightness and (so far) durability.