Tararua tracks work

I've been doing a bit of track work with the Greater Wellington Backcountry Network so here's some photos and notes from a few trips over recent months ...

Derrick Field is the powerhouse behind it all, aided and abetted by a bunch of, mostly retired but very active, volunteers.

Mount Frith and Finis track

I first get wind of a working party doing a blitzkrieg on the Mt Frith track.  If you don't know it, it's worth checking out.  It runs from a little north of Featherston where the Tauherenikau exits the Tararua Ranges, up to Mt Frith then on to the pylon track that links to the top of the Remutaka hill road with various exits and entrances you  can explore.  A lot of the bush is recovering farmland so pretty scrubby, but there are some unique views as there aren't a lot of tracks in that neck of the woods.     

I turn up at the Bucks Road campsite at the appointed hour to Derek's obvious puzzlement - apparently my joining email hasn't landed yet.  I have no idea what to expect but have chucked a bunch of potentially useful bits and pieces in a pack.  

There's been a bit of work done on the track already so we commute up the hill with scrub bars, chainsaws and other implements of destruction to the point we'll be working from.  There's 8 in the team and the order of operations quickly establishes itself.  Two head off with a scrub bar with a Triblade - this smashes off everything below about 2-3cm in diameter. Derek follows with a scrub bar with a cutting blade - essentially a circular saw on a stick which takes out anything up to 5 or 6cm.  Finally, a chainsaw comes through knocking off everything else.  Behind each tool is one or two chuckers who clear the carnage from the track.     

Given the nature of the scrub, Derek is keen to establish a broad swathe of destruction to prolong the time before the next trim.  It's slow work and my office-soft hands and back are quickly feeling the burn.  I also learn that the demands of the chuckers job varies with the terrain, vegetation, height of the bush and leather gloves are required for the old man gorse.  One day I'll be old enough to drive the scrub bar!

Chainsaw and chuckers
Mind your back 

Over the next few weeks we get in more days on the track with the mix of volunteers changing.  Mostly Wairapapa resident, but a few of us from further afield and the odd volunteer from the local tramping community (they also run their own working days).  Gareth is a starter on most days - he is organising an adventure race through this area and has a definite vested interest in the successful outcome of the work.  

The final day 'on the tools' we climb from Boar Bush Gully to Mt Finis and teams start from each end of the remaining uncut section.   It's pleasing to finish it 

View up the Tauherenikau gorge to cloud on the approach to Marchant Ridge

A slice of Wairarapa Moana

From above Boar Bush Gully towards Featherston

Southwest to the Remutaka Hill Road

A suitable sign to mark the end of this project

Tracks around Cone, Winchcombe and Maungahuka

The next project is my first multi day trip.  Derek has quite the logistical challenge to get teams, gear, helicopter and weather windows lined up.  

It ends up with two groups covering different chunks of territory.  One group to clear the track from Neill Peak to Winchcombe Biv and install warratahs up to Mt Hector.  Then, as time and weather allows, relocate to Maungahuka to cut through to clear the track along the main range to Aokaparangi. 

The second group to clear the track from Neill Peak back to Cone then along cone ridge and down to Neill Forks - with a helicopter relocation of gear to Neill Forks hut part way through - I think Derek had some other jobs in mind for them also.

I'm in the first group and end up partnered with Jim who has a wealth of experience and is good company.

We gather at the helicopter pad near the Waiohine road end.  There's a bit of amusement getting the cars up the track, and then organised chaos as gear is stacked into the correct piles for the different flights that will be required.

  

 

Bill the pilot duly turns up with his ground crew and fuel, and I'm on the first flight.  We're required to do the DOC online helicopter module so the instructions are fresh in mind and loading and departure go smoothly.  It's a pearler of a day and it's great to lift off and pass over the Waiohine River before skirting around cone ridge and climbing to the top of Neill.  Half a day's tramping is dispensed with in a few minutes as we touch down on the peak and quickly unload.  

 

Greg hares off to wang in some warratahs across the open peak top - he has until the helicopter comes back otherwise we'll be carrying the rammer all the way to Hector.  

In no time Bill is back and drops members of the other group, picks up the rammer and relocates it up to Winchcombe with our supplies - they then drop bundles of warratahs up the ridge to Hector marking the GPS waypoints.  Somewhere amongst all this, he drops a load of gear onto Cone and Greg and Mike to do the Hector warratahs.

As the sound of the helicopter fades for the last time Jim and I leave the cone team to organise themselves - they'll be cutting back to Come.  We turn to contemplate the ridge ahead.  It's a while since I've been this way but I recall interminable lumps and bumps.  The day is good for now but the forecast is variable over the next few days.

From Neill - Winchcombe Biv on the bushline 2ish km away. Hector in clag beyond.

Across the Hector Valley to the north the Tararua peaks (Tuiti and Tunui) and Maungahuka are clear but a drift of cloud obscures Aokaparangi.  

Tararua peaks, Maungahuka, Concertina Knob on right 

Jim gets into the chainsawing while I chuck the cuttings and cut back smaller vege with a set of shears.  In the tussock areas he gets away from me while I catch up in the forest.  

We get into our rhythm - it's not as efficient without a scrub bar as there is a lot of scrub too small for the chainsaw but too big for the shears.  However, you can certainly see the difference when we've been through.

By the end of the day we have probably done about half (1 km) of the ridge as we stash gear and start the commute to the Biv.  Greg passes through at one point on a mission to get back and finish the final warratah on Neill - he has an ice hammer not a rammer so we wish him luck. He reports that they have already set all the warratahs from Hector and are starting clearing back towards us on the ridge.

Greg and Mike are already settled in when we get to the Biv - they have very kindly left the two bedder to Jim and I and pitched their tents on the only two possible sites in the area.

Greg at Winchcombe Biv

This is the first time I've been to the new Biv - the old one was long gone when I was doing the bulk of my Tararua tramping, and the new one hadn't been built when I technically 'bagged' all the official huts (which I hadn't set out to do).  It's still in tidy condition, solidly constructed, well painted and with a ventilation fan (solar powered I think).  Over the next couple of days we discover that with a little rain, the hut surrounds are prone to be boggy and that the uncovered bog is prone to be miserable.

"All my own work ..."

We compare notes for the day and estimate that we should be finished tomorrow.  Greg and I are rapidly learning that going light weight might be a virtue when it comes to tramping but can be dispensed with when helicopters are involved.  Fortunately Jim has the good sense to bring enough beers to share and the good manners to do so.   

As we settle down, I'm pleased not to be in my single tent as I try to find a position that eases aching muscles.  

In the morning Jim and I head back to where we stopped and continue the work of yesterday eventually joining up with Greg and Mike before trudging back to the Biv.  The weather is packing it in and we've had some gear issues with broken shears and a lost oil cap on a chainsaw (Jim does an admirable bodge with a dracophyllum stem that sees us through though).

Commuting

Back at the hut it's a bit dismal with the rain set in and the ground getting steadily muddier.  Mike has brought a spare tarp which we rig over the entrance to the Biv and we can sit and eat in relative dryness.  It makes a huge difference but requires vigilance to prevent too much pooling - everyone heads off to their respective digs early. 

The three ... wise men?

The rain has eased by morning and we have hopes the weather will break enough for Bill to get in.  We get packed and relocate to the heli pad then sit around twiddling our thumbs and watching the cloud anxiously.  We have cellphone cover so can keep Bill posted on the conditions.  

 

Ridge to Neill

Shortly after

At least it breaks enough and Bill heads out - but we hear him fly around the ridge and up the Hector Valley - I'm scratching my head as it's a bit gorgy and I wouldn't think hunters would want to be dropped up there.  When he arrives Bill advises he was dropping off a SAR team to practice gorge rescues.  A good thing - I might be needing them one day. 

Two loads later we are settling into Maungahuka hut.  

The instructions are to cut through to Aokaparangi.  The gear is a bit of a compromise as it is not really chainsaw country - in  retrospect a scrub bar would have been more effective on the small stuff.  Greg and I don't have a lot of chucking to do but there is plenty of tussock and non-chain-sawable vege so we proceed at our pace while Mike and Jim forge ahead.  We're sharing the last pair of shears which are being kept functioning through cannibalism of the defunct pair. Fortunately, I've brought a flax knife which works well but requires bending double.   

We work north from Maungahuka along the range.  The country side is interesting enough for tramping, let alone working. 

It's a long commute back at the end of the day but we have got a fair way towards Wright and are pleased with progress.  During the day we see just two people - a chap doing the big day loop from Otaki forks, and a TA walker who is a little off the beaten track.

Jim looking for something big enough to chainsaw

Greg and I are the last to head back and it's a bit of a grind in the wind back up to Maungahuka - but the hut is relatively warm with all the bodies and Jim produces another round of beers.  Not to be out done, Mike shows off his prowess making scones in a billy.  He's perfecting the technique as part of a programme he is setting up to have TA trail volunteers engage with walkers.  

The TA walker is staying the night - she is following the main range rather than the usual exit to Otaki forks via Junction Knob and Waitewaewae.  She is unaware of the steel ladder on the Tararua Peaks that she will be crossing tomorrow morning, and her gear is a bit light weight for the conditions.  Jim digs out some spare gloves for her and Greg accompanies her in the morning to see her safely past the ladder.  

We reckon there isn't really enough work left for two teams along the range today so Mike and Greg head off to cut down to Concertina Knob while Jim and I head out to finish along the range.

It turns out to be tougher going than I expected and although Mike gets all the sawing done I stay back to get us much shearing done as I can.  In retrospect I was probably clearing to too high a standard - as Derrick points out later; people travelling these areas should expect to content with a bit of vegetation. 

The weather has deteriorated during the afternoon and I'm getting wet and bullied by the wind as I lug the jerry can back to the hut.   Everyone is back and Mike and Greg have dealt to the track all the way down and onto Concertina knob.  

There's nothing more to do tomorrow so we'll be packing in the morning and crossing our fingers for a helicopter sized break in the cloud.  I have cell coverage in the hut and down load various forecasts in order to select the most optimistic. 

It doesn't look promising as we peer across the tarn in the morning - the norwester is bringing humid air off the Tasman providing an unending supply of clag on the tops.

  

We get packed though and relocate to the helicopter 'pad' to be ready.

     

Waiting, waiting ...

Woohoo!!

Eventually some breaks start developing and we contact Bill - however he is held up waiting for a DOC crew to arrive at the hangar.  Eventually he turns up with a couple of chaps and drums of complicated gear.  They dump supplies then ferry equipment around the corner of the ridge to the ladder.  They're re-rigging a bunch of the chains and attachments with stainless steel.  

Finally we get our turn and are quickly ferried down to the warm air and clear skies at Waiohine Gorge.

Postscript

The other team got a lot of work done from Cone to Neill forks so all up it was a productive week with all boxes ticked.  Hopefully it will be a while before anyone needs to go through some of those areas again.  

The back straining nature of the work was a bit of a challenge for this (ex)office worker and I'm discovering how quickly and thoroughly it trashes your lightweight tramping gear.  I'm thinking a nice gesture from DOC would be giving volunteers access to discount kit - but not holding my breath under current funding constraints.  

A great experience with a great crew - all of whom were good company and generous - I learnt a lot.          

 

Dundas - again

Janine is keen to knock off the classic Dundas loop and bag another 1500m peak (Logan).    Mike and I round out the numbers.

We end up in two cars with Janine arriving at the Putara road end on a Thursday night (10 October) and setting off ahead of us.  Mike and I finally rock up and get away at about 19.35 with head torches ready.

There's a young couple at the road end and they turn out to have the same plans as us - we get away a few minutes ahead of them. 

The boys are rearing to go

A short way past the bridge there is a bit of mess where a slip has bowled a few trees - it's a little tricky finding a way through in the dark and we exchange notes with the couple as they catch-up.  After this there is one other minor excursion off track where we miss where the track turns up hill to avoid an old slip.  After a bit of mucking about the couple turn up behind us and point out the error of our ways.  

Although somewhat damp, the night is calm and we switch into grind mode for the 400m climb to the ridge.  A stream is running down the track but it's easy to follow in the dark. 

We regroup at the top and head right for Huapai along a boggy track.  Mike experiences the joys of optimism bias when he reaches the horrible realisation that there is a short sharp 100m climb out of the saddle to the hut - he had been sure it was flat!

The couple are already at the hut along with Janine who is feeling the cold.  We jump into pit quickly while we're still warm from walking.  

The next morning is a cracker - we're only going as far as Dundas Hut so there is no hurry.   The scrub is not too wet as we climb slowly with the views across the Tararua district expanding behind.  We even get a good line of sight to Ruapehu before the cloud obscures it.

Looking across to Haukura Ridge

Down the Ruamahanga

Pointing for dramatic effect

Putara farmland and places north east

As we reach Ruapae there's a bit of clag coming and going - and it stays murky until we get to East Peak.

North from Ruapae - I think

The saddle between East and West Peaks is another one of those places in the Tararuas that has a few near misses and not misses associated with it.  South off the ridge is the headwaters of Chamberlain creek - not to be attempted without a rope and canyoning gear.  There have been a few rescues around here with people running out of the necessary steam to deal with the elements and or losing the track.  It's only about 200m down and up, but it's scrubby, easy to mislay the track, and coming in either direction there is still a lot of work to get anywhere out of the elements once passed the saddle.

We regroup just out off the saddle to keep everyone on course then again at the top for lunch.

 

West Peak to East Peak

There's a good bail route off West Peak in the form of a spur running NNE into the Mangahao.  I came up it once and found it navigable albeit scrubby.  No idea what it is like now. 

Spur down to the Mangahao

Janine and the route from West Peak

The other couple has leap frogged us and as we climb towards Pukemoreore we can see their figures working their way along the horizon.  Although the clag has not come in close the cloud cover is keeping the temperature down and we're all well rugged up as we come over the ridge below Pukemoremore and get the first look down to Dundas Hut.  I can see a couple of tiny figures on the spur above the hut.   

East peak at right

Just below Pukemoremore looking south
Dundas Hut inline with my knee

It's an easy scramble up to Pukemoremore then down into a saddle and up to the knob above the hut spur.  

Final approach to Pukemoremore

Dundas Hut

I'm a little ahead of Janine and Mike and chill in the sun until they arrive.  They both want to pop up Logan but I have my sights set on the hut and leave them to it.  The cold has cleared again and they get good views across the Horowhenua.

With five in the hut it is convivial without being too crowded - we eventually work out the one degree of separation from the couple (a relation of hers has been on some of the same track working trips as me). 

Another fantastic morning.  The couple get away ahead of us and we don't anticipate seeing them again as they tend to move a bit faster than us.  I've heard that a track team has been through some months back and I'm keen to see the results as it was a bit rough last time I came through.  

From the hut the track drops steeply down the spur to a stream junction - this section has been scrubby and overgrown in the past.  After that there is a sidle to the Ruamahanga River - this section crosses the steep lower slopes of a spur with loose rubble under foot.  It's prone to tree fall, slippage and poor marking. 

Back to Dundas

The track down the spur is in a good state with the scrub cut well back from the track all the way down.  I quite like the stream junction at the bottom - on a good day it's a wee sun trap - a good spot for a drink and a short break.  

Janine hoping for dry feet

The sidle section is better with the bush cleared back, although a few extra markers wouldn't go amiss. We drop down to the side of the Ruamahanga to see the couple across the river and about to embark on the climb to Cattle Ridge.  We exchange greetings and decide to settle in for an early lunch.  

It's a pretty spot - on a warmer day you might be tempted to swim in the pool.  Today  - not so much.  Although sunny there's a nippy wind.   

Mike showing how its's done without poles

No more dry feet

The track team have done a great job on the way up to Cattle ridge also.  Once out of the bush there is a broad swathe of destruction through the scrub and no concerns about finding the track.  Until you get to the rocky bits where the lack of markers mean you often end up just following your nose.

There's a firm and cool wind on top of the ridge so we don't wait around getting to the hut around 1540.

The hut is still in great condition after its refurb with the closed in porch a huge improvement.  We decide given the lack of time pressures we'll call it a day and even manage to get a few things dry in the afternoon sun.  

The couple have continued on to roaring stag so we are hopeful of having the hut to ourselves.  A little later though a chap turns up so four of the five bunks end up being taken.  

There is a fire box in the hut which I'm not quite so sure is a good idea given the lack of wood up here. Someone has cut green leatherwood and stashed it in the wood shed - the scrub won't last long if that keeps up. 

The next morning is a bit overcast and it starts to drizzle as we head down the steep track to Roaring Stag.  The worst keeps off though and we are crossing the bridge to the hut a little before 0930.

Morning on Cattle Ridge

And that's pretty much it.  We have a slow trip out and it starts raining.  We stop briefly to pile some branches across the old track where we missed the way coming in.   By daylight we can also see that there is a big slip on the true right of the river which may have pushed the river in closer to the left undercutting a section of track.

   

We cruise back to Masterton for a pub dinner and compare notes.  Getting into Herepai Hut on the first night set the weekend up for a good rhythm with three easy days.  The track work has certainly made a difference but it's a circuit that has to be respected as the weather can easily make for a very different experience.