Remutaka - Pylon Track

Sometimes a weekend is required where you knock off those 10 things you've been meaning to get around to. I'm not referring to the sort of weekend that the average family has about once a week, but one where you catch up with three parts of the family you haven't seen for a while; knock off five spot-heights that you expect to be unbearably tedious; take Angela on a nav trip; go on a road ride in the Wairarapa and polish off some fine dining.

The spot-heights in question are in the southern most part of the Tararua Forest Park to the north of the Remutaka hill road. The area has been cleared and burnt at times and is covered in a mix of regenerating bush. It's not that popular for walking although there are tracks and an ECNZ road along the pylons. Getting to off-track spot heights in the area is likely to involve some pain.

I figure there are at least two good days of walking and scrub bashing to get to all the points and don't fancy doing them all in one go.  A day trip followed by a bike ride seems like a good way to start ticking them off.

What:    Day tramp and road ride
Where:  Pylon track from Remutaka saddle to Abbot's Creek bridge on Featherston side
Who:     Angela and me
When:   24 February 2018
Map:

The support crew takes a couple of snaps so the SAR people know what to look for and we potter up the track from the Remutaka saddle - it's shortly after 8am. Although not early-early, the light is clear and highlights the gold in the dracaphyllum.

The single track up to the pylon track is well cut and easy to follow. The first couple of hundred metres is notable not so much for the views as the gormless twat with a blue spray-can that has daubed trees and rocks with their howls against society. Fortunately they didn't have the stamina or attention span to travel far and we are soon climbing through forest and scrub towards the ridge.

Although the route for the day is mostly 4WD drive track I figure it's a good excuse to try to ensure that Angela learns some good navigation techniques rather than picking up my slightly slap dash approach. To this end, we pause on the way up to fix our position using a distant landmark perpendicular to our direction of travel, and actually pay attention to the bearing numbers for a change. The altimeter only comes out to confirm if we're in the ball park.

The views start with the full length of the Upper Hutt side of the Remutaka road - from this angle the twisting climbing curves are reduced to a gently rising straight line. The Pakuratahi flats are now basking in the morning light with the morning mist we drove through 30 minutes earlier completely burnt off. In between, the hillside below has a surprising depth with hidden gullies and some lovely forest that is not visible from the road. 

Remutaka hill road

Pakuratahi

Other side of the Remutaka road

Progress is slow as we take every opportunity to take in the view and practice aligning the map with distant ridges. To the south, the hills and ridges of  the Remutaka Forest park come into view as we climb higher.

The pylon road is well maintained with vegetation cleared and a solid base so we rock along to 805 (and our most significant planned deviation) fairly quickly. The plan is to 'pop' north down a spur to pt 575. Let the record state that I warn Angela that it could be pretty scrubby judging by the map.

About 20m below 805 there is a bit of tape on a tree and a ground trail develops. We follow this down through open, mossy forest to a couple more markers before a short section through open scrub - back into the trees again we are making great progress until we hit the next patch of scrub. A carefully taken compass bearing saves us from hiving off down a side spur at least once.

We lose any sign of the trail and end up in a full on scrub bash - progress is glacial as we edge our way through, over and under trying to avoid the worst of the gorse. Angela trials the well known technique of falling backwards through a tree and somewhere in the process rips a hole in her brand new Under-Armour tights - I could be accused of being insensitive in pointing out that it could have been worse - it could have been her leg,

Eventually we get back into bush again and progress speeds up. There's a clearing at our target pt and we take a bearing on a nearby feature (714) to confirm we have arrived. Time for a bite in the shade.

The route back is a little less exciting - we stick to the more heavily forested east face of the spur and work our way upwards avoiding the worst of the scrub.

Scrambling down the bank onto the pylon track is a little bit fraught with Angela engaging the slip-and-slide-down-on-your-bum technique - judging by the amount of filth and water accumulated this is not recommended.

A short stint along the 4WD track before we leave it briefly to follow the ridge line towards Mt Frith. This track is well cut and marked, although a rising wind starts to buffet us a little.  A historic burn or other clearance has left the ridge here covered in low scrub giving good views to Lake Wairarapa,  the Featherston side of the Remutaka Road and north across the Tauherenikau gorge.

Angela in the wilderness

Lake Wairarapa with some foreground

Heading back from pt 712 - contending with the wind

The final mission for the day after returning to the pylon track is the steep drop to the valley floor with a brief excursion to pick up pt 375. Angela takes one look at the bush and leaves me to half an hour of crashing through trackless manuka, old man gorse and regenerating forest species.

Still looking down on the hill road

The stream valley to the east has forest trees and hillsides of Punga - the area is regenerating really nicely.

The support crew responds to a phone call and our assurance that we will be out in about 10 minutes - unfortunately this is a little prolonged due to blackberry patches on the way down that require harvesting.

Our accommodation in Martinborough is serviceable if a bit tired and Aidan and Janne join us at Pinocchio's for a very good meal. She has just finished saying that we don't know it but this is her birthday weekend, when she discovers a gift under her serviette and a cake we had delivered to the restaurant earlier turns up for dessert. A successful surprise and suitably low key.

Post script

It's a nice walk giving interesting angles on familiar landmarks. The pylon track is easy going but it is hard underfoot and a little steep on the downhill end so the knees feel it by the time you get to the bottom.  The track along to Mr Frith looks like a better option to my eye.

Good company, a nice day, and five spot-heights efficiently dispatched.

A Sunday road ride

The following day we polish the weekend off with a bike ride from Martinborough along the Longbush Road to Gladstone and a jaunt up Admiral Hill.

Between the first and second puncture

My newly replaced back tube has gone down overnight and the replacement (from the same batch bought cheap on Torpedo 7) loudly gives up the ghost 3km in.  Notwithstanding this, it's a lovely ride with Tour Aoteroa riders coming through after overnighting in Masterton. Gladstone has a large sign up welcoming the riders which is pretty cool although the riders may be a little disappointed that there is essentially nothing at Gladstone and certainly nothing selling the essentials (ginger beer and toasted sandwiches). The pub a little way of the back road is pretty good though (see below).

Admiral Hill is a nice little uphill grunt with a good half K steep pinch. Angela takes this in her stride despite her bottom gear starting to skip. We pause at the first summit for some adjustment which gets her to the top.

The wind gives good assistance on the way up and is screaming across the crest, but demands some care to get started on the downhill.  Angela's gears choose this moment to throw a wobbly and, after a bit of examination, a broken gear cable is diagnosed - I remove the cable and lock it into a choice of two gears which prove to be just too high for her to peddle to the top of the rise on the way back to the false summit.

As soon as cell phone coverage is restored the support crew (who have taken refuge at the Gladstone pub) are dispatched to mount a rescue. I nobly continue the ride to the bottom of the hill meeting them on the way up.

The Gladstone pub turns out to be an appropriate venue for the post match analysis. Surprisingly good food for a country pub and clearly a magnet for cyclists - some of whom have stayed overnight for the sole purpose of knocking off the admiral (as it were).

Ruapae Falls

The Tararuas may not be famed for its waterfalls but there are a few, and one or two are even marked on the map.  One of these is Ruapae waterfall in the northern part of the range near Eketahuna. There's no marked track, but the area looks quite navigable and there are a couple of spot heights to pick up nearby.

The waterfall is also near where the old Schormann's track ran up a spur to Kareti. This track was apparently cut by a local farmer forming a link to the tops and inevitably becoming the starting point for the famous SK (Schormann's - Kaitoke), a challenging end-to-end weekend traverse of the range for those of a masochistic bent.  Putara hut was on the spur but it mysteriously burnt down and access to the track was denied in 1977 - the track is no longer marked but you can still see it on the old maps.

As if these features not enough reason for a trip, I also have my eye on Haukura Ridge. This is a lumpy complicated system running south off the main range at East Peak. The hillsides are quite spectacular in the area - steep and heavily eroded. To the west of the ridge is Chamberlain creek - probably the most extensive real canyon in the ranges. There is an old Biv site on the ridge and various trip reports on the web (which, regrettably I neglected reading until afterwards).

What:   Navigation and spot-heighting
Where:  Roaring stag area, Tararuas
When:   17-18 February
Who:     Solo
Map: 

A little after 7.20am I leave the carpark, casting a jaundice eye at the cloud swathed ridges. A few minutes later a spray of rata beside the swing-bridge is a cheerful counterpoint to the gloom overhead. On the other side I start looking for a way up the hill to pt 655. Not too close to the bridge as there is a bush edge marked on the map which could be a bit scrubby.

Just up the track there is a wee shingle slip with a tiny stream that has wiped out the track. It provides a good enough point to start working up the hill. It's pretty open going a bit of undercanopy and, as expected, saplings and scrub towards the north. The top is broad and flat with tall rimu, matai and miro.

There are old tape markers and ground trails in places but these are easily lost so I just follow the compass. The high canopy gives no views.



Uncinia leptostachya
Bastard grass



Occasional skiffs of rain make it to the forest floor but not enough to warrant a rain coat given that it's still pretty warm (par for the course for the morning).

I emerge off the hill onto a grassy flat beside what will become the Mangatainoka River. This would be a great wee spot to camp but at 8.45 it's still a little bit early.

The bush margins have very healthy clumps of bastard grass which, despite the fact that my legs are not very hairy, liberally entrust their progeny to my tender care.

Grassy flats looking up stream

The falls are marked in various places depending on the age of your map. It doesn't really matter - the stream twists and turns so it is pretty hard to be exact. The valley narrows and steepens but is easy travel.                                                                                                                                                                 Shortly before the falls there is a large boulder between rocky bluffs with a deepish pool. Two people would probably help each other up - I just jamb my walking stick to into the stream to form a foot hold and scramble up the meter or so required.                                                                                                                                The drizzle gets a little more determined over the next couple of hours but is hardly noticeable at the falls themselves (about 30 minutes from the flats). There is the usual thunder, spray and cold wind associated with a stream dropping through a slot, maybe 10m into a pool. There's a large rocky alcove and it's mossy and slippery in the narrow gully. It takes about 10 minutes to take some inadequate photos and see my fill before turning down stream looking for a way up the true left valley side.

I idly wander about the source of the Maori place names in the area (there are quite a few) but have no ideas - even afterwards the best I can manage is that Ruapae may refer to two ranges of hills. In this area there is a peak with the name, the falls and a stream (not the stream with the falls).





A few of the old markers remain

Just below the falls a trickle enters from the left offering a precarious clamber up a series of steps in a mossy, choked water course. One step is a step to big requiring a scramble out on to a sharp wee spur to the west that climbs to the main spur to Kareti.   Here there is a strong ground trail and it's reasonably open - I figure this is the route of the old Schormanns track - it is certainly well enough formed. I pop up a little beyond pt 820. It's still but cloudy so no views. I figure you would have good access to the ridge from here.

With some reliance on the altimeter and one false start I leave the old track to find the spur dropping south towards the flats from earlier (at about 740m). There is a bit of ground trail but it comes and goes and I end up dropping off at some point to hit the stream a little earlier than intended. I'm back at the flats around 11.45am.

River flats below Ruapae falls (again).

Less than 15 minutes downstream is a rocky creek entering from the true right - I figure this will be an easy route up to the saddle below Herepai Hut (the old maps show a route up the spur on the true right of the creek but I don't find this out until later). The best description is that the creek is 'aggressively eroding'. It's bouldery but mostly pretty open and all the log chokes are navigable. It gets a little bit messy near the top but I'm in the saddle a little after 12.30.

Unnamed creek from saddle bellow Herepai Hut 

Looking down the Maungatainoka from the creek mouth 
Hill with pt 655 on left

It's a little odd to find a perfectly good track and cross it perpendicularly to drop down a gully. My route down follows a trickle through forest at first but soon breaks into an active erosion gully. I just follow the trickle as it becomes a creek rather than try to break onto a spur.

Looking back up towards the saddle - a bit messy

At 1pm I'm on river flats beside Ruapae stream. Time to turn upstream but also make a mental note that the bottom of the opposite spur doesn't look too bad - I may be emerging here later on and want to check I won't get bluffed.

Ruapae Stream

10 minutes upstream are the forks and my intended spur running due east up to East Peak. I take the chance for a sit down and a water refill before tackling the climb.

The first task is to find a way to scramble up the steep foot of the spur then there's a steady climb up through good bush. As with most spurs - there could be a ground trail but it's probably mainly from animals. After an hour there are some openings and some views out. About ENE the orange roof of Herepai Hut sticks out on the ridge up to Herepai and Ruapae. This is the route up to the tops and the modern start of the North-South Traverse of the Tararuas. It's too far to see if there are people about.

The view also indicates the tops are still hidden in cloud with just the occasional steep erosion chute plunging out of the clag. I recall looking across at this ridge and noting how rugged it looks near the top. The forecast is for gale-force winds - and although it's not bad now it could get a bit interesting. To the south, I can examine the ridge I intend to come down later - it's covered in scrub.

East - Herepai hut is a dot where the ridge climbs steeply on the left

And scrub is what I am destined to be thrashing through very soon. The forest gives up (the map says around 900m so well below the normal bushline) for cedar and lots of leatherwood and dracophyllum. I can't find any coherent trail but there are sporadic animal tracks so you just piece it together as best you can and accept it is going to be slow and painful.

Pahautea - NZ Cedar

Looking up into the head of  the valley between East Peak and Ruapae 

The scrub becomes a bit lower and I angle around to the north face of the spur to pick up more tussocky country and easier going. A stronger ground trail develops and there is a lot of animal sign. A shot gun cartridge is the only incontrovertible evidence of people. The threatened wind starts to pick up as I ascend into the clag at about 1200m.

The slope rounds off onto the unnamed knob ESE of East Peak (1380m). There's a marshy slot in the middle where I shelter to check compass and map. Visibility is about 20 meters and the wind is smashing into the slope from the west.

Accepting that the compass knows what it's doing, I select the windward side of the ridge and follow the bearing south to pt 1332. It's difficult keeping upright but it's mostly scree and low vegetation on this side - a brief foray to the lee side sees me bowled over on the ridge line and the veg on the other side is not so easy. Glasses are relegated to a pocket for fear of having them whipped away.

At 1332 I now have the tricky job of finding the spur leading to the saddle and pt 1127. It would be a doddle in clear conditions but now it is interesting. At least the ridge provides some shelter (for now) and the first couple of 100m down is relatively open. Then the scrub starts again and it is back to trying to find any route through.  The last 50 or so vertical meters to the saddle are particularly trying.

There is apparently an old route around here somewhere and an old bivvy site - I think I find some traces but discover later that other people have followed the creek bed to the right of the spur. My legs are starting to get shredded and very tender from the scrub treatment - particularly as those bloody gators have had to be removed as they are wearing holes in my legs again.

Dropping out of the clag and first view of the saddle
Old bivvy site down to the right somewhere

Once through the saddle there's another scrubby scramble but the vegetation is a little less hostile. The top of 1127 is dropping in and out of the clag and the wind is making itself known again. As the cloud lifts, views open over the intervening ranks of hills towards the sunny Wairarapa.

From 1127, looking back at the spur and saddle - creek is on left

Someone's getting some sun

At 4.40pm I have a decision to make. Head SW to pick up pt 912 and suffer more scrub torture plus be virtually guaranteed to be caught out by the dark. Or cut losses and leave 912 for another day.  I decide I can cope with a late night but I will be kicking myself if I leave that spot height behind.

The cloud keeps coming and going but there is enough view that navigation is mainly by eye.

And the cloud comes in again

The knob is clearly visible steeply down the spur - as is the intervening scrub. The last 100m or so is once again through low and then higher scrub. The knob itself has some good healthy 2m scrub. I manage to find a few spots to take photos

Down spur towards 912 - Ruamahanga on left

SE from 912 towards Tawhero - foot of Cattle Ridge dropping from right

Dome hidden in cloud to left - Chamberlain Creek between spurs on right

At 5.20 it's taken 40 minutes from 1127. Now the tough job of getting back. The north face of the spur is slightly easier going and it's 45 minutes back to 1127, so not so bad.

And the cloud comes again ...

This time the cloud lifts enough to show the Ruamahanga far below as it and the Ruapae meander inevitably together. The hidden lake is visible as a brown spot just above where the Ruamahanga river becomes visible - no time to visit today I'm afraid. I think I briefly see the orange roof of Roaring Stag Lodge. Unfortunately I have to go a long way in the opposite direction to pick up one more spot height before I'll be down there.

SE from 1127 Ruapae/Ruamahanga forks

The saddle again

Looking down my spur

The spur down points directly towards Herepai Hut. I have a sit down at the top to rest battered legs. The aim now is to get to the river before dark - which may be a bit earlier if the cloud drifts any further east.  It's 6.15.

What to say? Scrub of diverse descriptions, scratches on scratches and bruises on bruises. It's tough and somewhat demoralising. Eventually, towards pt 853 I can stop pushing through scrub and drop below the canopy. It's taken 1:15 to travel a km or so down the spur. It's getting dim but just after 8pm I break onto the stream flats - I figure on an hour before needing a torch.

Spur up to East Peak in foreground

I'm pretty sore but Ruapae stream is easy going. It just takes ages. A skiff of rain comes through periodically but otherwise it's just more stretches of water, more flats and more walking. At 9pm I give up and crack out the torch.

It turns out I'm a minute from the forks and from there just half an hour and four river crossings to the hut arriving just after 9.30pm - about 14 hours on the go.

There are no lights but three bodies on the deck indicating a full house. I decide not to wake everyone by making dinner so find a spot on the porch and munch on bread and cheese before dossing down.

Morning from Roaring Stag

I ache myself awake - relieved that the rain hasn't driven in over night and pleased not to be stuck on a scrubby spur. It's still warm and the Ruamahanga is still on the cusp of the weather from the west.

A party of four women from Palmerston North TC get up early and head off down river. I'm next up and cook two breakfasts to make up for dinner. I take my time but no-one else gets up.

Another decision - head out or pick up some local spot heights. It's really tempting to just call it quits for a leisurely crawl out licking my wounds and nursing aging joints. I fill in the hut book and sneak out to climb the hill behind the hut.

Full house

7.45 is a civilised hour - a 400m climb after yesterday - not so much.  It takes an hour to get to the scrub then a 15 minute crawl and climb through it to the ridge (there might be an easy way through but I missed it). Parts of the ridge are clear, but not southwest to pt 650. 

Down spur to Ruamahanga - 1127 in cloud

Same view from a little further along

On the map, the distance between 811 and 650 is not so much. It takes almost 2 hours.  Sometimes crawling along pig trails with pack off, sometimes pushing through scrub, eventually dropping west to follow along below the crest under a higher canopy. Every now and again climbing a tree and taking a bearing off a landmark.

After yesterday it is now mentally tough as well as physically draining and painful.

650 and lunch

From 650 there is no obvious route so I just drop down slope looking for the path of least resistance. Finally it feels like a bit of progress. I've been along the river twice before but always on the opposite side. I'm surprised to find that there are pretty good terraces most of the way back to the hut from below 650. Arriving about midday to find it empty and very tidy.

In the spirit that I am not going to do anything the easy way this weekend I head up the track and leave it just before it starts climbing. I follow up beside the slightly slimy brown stream to a point where I reckon I'm near the spur north to pt 713 (a bit of farfing involved).

The spur is well defined, steepish at points with a lot of saplings - it's not easy travel so it is after 1:30 when I finally sit in dappled shade at the top. The track is less than 200m away but there is one final way to make this more difficult. I head NE scrambling down through bush to find a trickle then a creek then a stream.

713

It looks straight forward on the map - a reasonably gently shelving stream - but I'm thoroughly sick of log jambs and slippery rocks by the time I get to the junction with the Mangatainoka 1 hour 40 later.

Mangatainoka River and the weather is looking up

Half an hour later its 3.45 and I'm turning my pack inside out to find the car keys. The ginger beer has been sitting in the sun and pretty much explodes on opening but it gets me as far as Carterton New World and something cold.

So ...
Ruapae falls - check. Worth a visit, nice little starter navigation exercise - particularly taking in 655. Falls are not really beautiful but an unusual sight in the Tararuas.

Schormanns track - check. Still there and navigable - not sure if you can get in from the farmland - would need to ask permission - it would be pretty easy to get to from the flats below the falls.

Haukura Ridge - check. Tough in the wind and clag. Even on a good day that scrub will be a challenge. Maybe try the creek to the saddle? 912 - interesting views, the exit off the bottom of it looks challenging to say the least. 853 - that scrub section is a bugger. Lower sections not so bad.

Ruapae stream - check. Lovely stretch of water with lots of camping spots. Need to take some time to check out the lake at some point.

811 and 650 - check. Just that - check.

713 and stream out - check. Takes the tally to 9 spots for the weekend - not bad.

Kahiwiroa Crossing

How do you create a beautiful Tararua crossing? It seems you do it by accident. This trip was an elaborate attempt to pick up four spot heights above the Aokaparangi Stream (between the Main Range and the Otaki River).

When you think about it, the Tararuas are defined by rivers and ranges. Locations and features are described by their relationship to its spines and its arteries. So ... a trip that immerses you in the Otaki, climbs the main range via a little visited valley, then plunges for a swim in the Waiohine before scaling Mt Holdsworth. All in the space of two days - is a pretty good cross section of what the Tararuas represent.

What:    Tararua crossing and nav trip
Where:  Otaki forks to Holdsworth via Kahiwiroa
When:   9-11 February 2018
Who:     Solo
Map:



Kahiwiroa Crossing - with a little side excursion

A little after 7.30 on a Friday evening the support crew takes a snap of a natty tramper about to potter off from the Otaki Forks car park.



Before ...



First slip - looking down river

The aim is to find a spot to camp an hour or so up the Otaki gorge. Last time through there were a couple of terraces that looked promising.

It's a bit easier getting to and across the first slip having been through once before. I'm hoping to get to the second big terrace but in the end find a spot after an hour, towards the end of the first and pitch the fly as the light starts to fade. The DD Hammocks super-light weight fly is just that - and is quite narrow so it takes a bit of farfing to get it right.

The night is quiet apart from the odd spot of rain and occasional small animal of the scampering-around-in-the-leaves variety.

It's pleasant to wake with the light filtering down through the canopy and break camp in the dry to head off about 7am.




The start - camp site approx at blue triangle

When I was here previously, I followed the old track to the big slip and lost it. This time I keep my eyes peeled and still end up at the slip with no sign of an alternative. I work gingerly down the side of the slip to the river.

Slips come in a variety of flavours - this is not one of those fresh crumbly ones that you can gaily scree run down - no, it's old and cantankerous. There's steep crumbling rock which may or may not hold your weight at each step, with a skiff of grit to make it more interesting. If you start sliding you just know you'll emerge at the bottom like you've been through a tumble dryer full of belt sanders.

On the other side of the slip I scramble up the valley side to see if I can see the old track but give it away after half an hour of precarious thrashing around and descend to follow the river. It's about 8.50am.

Afterwards - a helpful colleague suggests that if you just bash up beside the slip and over the top you eventually pick up the old track again on the other side of the stream. The old maps website indicates that in 1979 the track crossed the stream and climbed over the hill to Penn Creek but a section of track also followed up the gorge - I didn't see any sign of it but may not have climbed high enough.

Otaki River - clear and low

As previously, there are a few scrambles around deep bits and some deep wades but all doable with the river low.  It's about 9.10am when Penn Creek hoves into sight, shortly followed by pt 148, then the spur to Pakihore that I took last time. Finally, new territory.

The river chews into the base of the Pakihore Ridge

The map is quite insistent that the next section is gorgy as the river skirts around the toe of the Pakihore Ridge. I haven't been able to find any hints online as to how passable it is, so have some trepidation as to what's ahead. It proves to be all navigable, although some rock climbing is required and I find myself swimming a short distance on a couple of occasions. I wouldn't go in on my own with the river up.

A bit of rock climbing - should have swum it

The gorge section is impressive and, much as I distrust it, it is almost sad to leave the river behind. I almost barrel past the mouth of the creek I want (it's either the Whatiuru or Aokaparangi - the map isn't clear which). At 11.30am it's four and a half hours since departure and two hours twenty from Penn Creek - so not rapid progress.

Looking down river - the narrow mouth of Aokaparangi/Whatiuru on left

From the gorge to the tops

The valley starts narrow with some clambering up the stream bed but soon opens for a very pleasant wander with a bit of sun occasionally cracking through the high overcast. There are a few spots you could camp and I reckon it would be pretty cool as I think the area is seldom visited. I heard tell there was once a Whatiuru Biv but no idea where.

Enjoying the walk too much means I neglect paying attention to location and time, a few minutes are consequently wasted confirming that I have reached the forks between the two creeks. This is the point of departure for a completely pointless grunt up a very steep spur to reach an isolated spot-height.

I've been eyeing-up Pt 738 for a while and it looks as steep in person as it does on the map. It is also relentless. There's a bit of animal trail and the bush is reasonably open so it is hard and hot, rather than difficult work. My shirt is soon relegated to the pack.

The top, at 1.40pm is a relief and provides a little view of clouds on the slopes above and, on the way down glimpses of Aokaparangi creek far below but not a lot else.

The trip down is equally steep and a little more complex requiring attention to navigation and footing (who says I can't multitask). 40 minutes later at the bottom it does what spurs so often do in this country - leave you hanging tantalisingly close to the creek. A bit of casting about and a point to scramble off the slope eventually presents itself.

Forks on Aokaparangi at base of spur

The creek is cool, clear and welcome. Passed time for lunch. It's still too hot for a shirt but sufficiently overcast that sunburn isn't a concern. This really is an isolated bend on a stream among hundreds, and miles from anyway.

Not a naiad or dryad or a woodland nymph ...

The next section is a 1000m climb to the main range at Kahiwiroa via a promising looking spur. I have seen the odd report of trips through this spur and it is an obvious route to the tops but clearly not frequently used. I fossick a couple of hundred metres down stream and find a break in the precipitous foot of the spur and start to climb.

There is a bit of trail on the spur and it's easy to follow. Further up, there are breaks in the canopy that give views of the main range with clouds spilling over from the east.

Main range around Maungahuka

Dali forest at pt 1185

At pt 1185 (about 5.30pm) it finally feels that progress has been made. There's a bit of of a clearing on the knob and some beautiful goblin forest - also a slightly tricky bit of navigation to find the saddle before the final climb to the range, arriving at the top about 6.30pm. Kahiwiroa - 1320m.

I send a text to home command as I've decided that with rain forecast, rather than sleeping out I'll head up range to Anderson Memorial Hut for a comfortable night. I take the opportunity to check out the spurs down to the Waiohine and up the other side to Isabelle that I will be working through tomorrow. 

With the mucking around it takes about 50 minutes from the top of Kahiwiroa to Anderson Memorial Hut (7.20pm). As usual it takes a lot longer than expected to drop into the bush and follow the narrow ridge to the hut through mossy beech forest.

South down main range from Kahiwiroa

The hut is empty and warm. I settle in, cook dinner and check out the injuries from the day. A few bruises and scratches, rub points from gaiters, a big toe nail about to drop off (just after it's grown in again) but otherwise just the usual aches from all the climbing.

It rains solidly in the night but in the morning it is just a high overcast. The forecast is for heavy rain late afternoon.  While I'm here I've decided to pick up a couple of spot heights - the first is 1060 - a small bushy knob off the west of the range. It takes about 15 minutes to drop through scrub, and leatherwood into the bush and onto the knob. About the same to get back again.

Pt 1060 in foreground Waitatapia, Kapakapanui and a bit of Kapiti Island behind

Back on the main track I head north a short way then scramble up to pt 1226. It offers panoramic views and I take the time to recognise places I've been, places I'm going to go and places I'm about to go very shortly. Snow berries are buried in mossy corners and in among the tussock providing a bit of second breakfast. I finally drag myself away and head back to the hut - it's been an hour and a half diversion and not getting me any closer to my destination.

Spiky spaniard

So ... southwards, back along the bushy ridge and onto the shoulder of Kahiwiroa. After a bit of mucking around to get cellphone reception I text my intentions and pick a spot to depart the track and find the top of my spur. It's about 0915.

Looking north from the shoulder of Kahiwiroa up the Waiohine River valley

My spur on right - pointing at Francis Stream.
Spur leading up to Isabella on right 

There could be a trail in the tussock if you squint, but it's not up to much and easily lost. There's a bit of steep leatherwood to get through before the bushline which is much worse if you drift off the spur. Once among the trees it could be any spur under the familiar Tararua bush with a bit of ground trail which seems mostly used by game.

The route down should be straightforward, although the line of the spur proves a little hard to follow in a few spots. The main issue is not to get bluffed at the bottom as it drops to a marked gorge. I plan to drop north onto a spur at 700m that leads to a side creek.

The start of the side spur is a little tricky to find, but once on, it is strongly shaped. There's a lot of undergrowth and the rain starts in earnest so I am soon soaked through and berating my useless specs. It descends steeply and mossily.

At the base there is no apparent way off. The creek drops through waterfalls and the sides are high and crumbling. It's stopped raining but it's with a great deal of care that I sidle along the slope, eventually finding a route down to the river rather than the stream. I suspect it might have been a better option to follow the main spur then sidle to drop to the river.

No matter - it's just after 11am and the sun is striking mist off the river - loverly. It's just a short wander down stream to the start of the gorge.

Looking down river

From what I've read, this gorge has a bit of a swim to contend with. Water sensitive things like cell phones are stashed away and I wade in to the long calm pool and start working my way down the true right bank.  It would be a heinous scramble to avoid this section and to my eye there is no low level climbable route. I have a brainwave and blow as much air into my camelback as it will take, on the theory that every little bit will help.

The bottom drops away and soon may as well be a mile below my flailing boots. I use the odd purchase point on the bank to propel me forward and at last feel gravel under foot again. Whilst neither efficient, nor elegant my dog paddle has done the trick.

Looking back up the pool from Francis Creek

Francis Creek is narrow, dim, and mossy, it is also marked as gorge. By all accounts there is a route onto the spur a few hundred metres up. I'm not sure what to expect.

I don't see any obvious way out until I reach a very deep pool. The true left slope is steep but looks navigable so I start scrambling. There is supposed to be a recognised route up here but I don't see anything but goat tracks. The rain sets in heavily, making things a little more treacherous.

At 700m there is a flat spot on the spur where I figure anyone coming up from the stream will arrive - hopefully there will be some ground trail from there. A family of goats leave their shelter to precede me onto the flat where I take a breather. 

There is a fair amount of windfall up the spur so the trail is often not easy, but no more difficult than others spurs. Once again I have a diversion to execute - this time I detour south around the spur at 900m to reach the spur down to 754 - 1.50pm and another spot height down.

Very wet after swimming and climbing in the rain,
but apparently still relatively cheerful

From 994 (about 2.20pm) the ground trail gets stronger and it is a long but not difficult wander along the gently shelving spur until it steepens to climb to the bushline on Isabella. There are a couple of cairns in the tussock but not much foot trail. I think the trick is not to drift east as the scrub seems to be a bit deeper that way.

At the bushline (3.30pm), the source of the day's rain is apparent - the sky north is gloomy and squalls of rain can be seen approaching. The wind is strong but is at least pushing me uphill. It gets steadily windier and wetter.

More weather from the north.
From slopes of Isabella - my spur on left

Some good soul has trimmed the track over Isabella so it's easy to see your footing and the buffeting from the wind is a little less likely to trip you up. By the time I'm climbing out of the saddle towards Holdsworth the cloud has closed in and visibility is down to 50m the rain isn't cold so I don't bother with a coat and I don't pause at the top (4.20) before starting down the expressway to Powell Hut.

The home straight

The circuit from the Holdsworth road end up the Gentle Annie to Powell Hut, Mt Holdsworth and Jumbo, then down to Atiwhakatu to exit down the valley (or, in reverse if you prefer) is the closet thing to a great walk in the Tararuas. The tracks are well graded with lots of lovely infrastructure like stairs and drainage.

It's the sort of tramping experience I generally avoid but does allow for a reasonably quick exit from the tops to Powell Hut - I had thought the rain was heavy until just before reaching the hut when it really opens up. I thump onto the veranda amidst a tropical downpour about 4.40pm.

There are three souls in residence.  The young woman turns out to be the hut warden and is usually resident in Masterton - with her are two chaps that are doing a long trip and have come in from Tarn Ridge ahead of the weather.

I chat as I fill the log and interrogate the warden about the time to the carpark. She reckons two hours at fast pace.

The track has turned into a stream but I can potter along at a good rate down the flights of steps and along the well formed path with the rain pounding down. Feeling somewhat weary I can only muster a walk on the long flat section after Mountain House. On the down hill again I trot as much as possible and the rain clears.

It starts to get crowded after Rocky Lookout. A couple then two more with a dog are surprised as my disreputable figure shambles into sight around a corner and clomps off down the track. At the bottom, a couple of joggers then a group of teenagers wearing nothing vaguely tramping related (they were heard talking in the carpark about heading up to Atiwhakatu but wouldn't have made it by dark), then a few more people heading back to the carpark. The rain has blown through but it's still threatening so all this activity is a little odd.

At the carpark, a little after 6, and 70 minutes from the hut, the support crew administers ginger beer and sympathy in response to the old man noises that are produced as I divest myself of pack, boots and soggy gear.

... and after .... "Oooh - give me sympathy!"

Postscript

Tararua crossings are generally satisfying as they give the sense of having got somewhere, as well as having done something. This one was fantastic: marked tracks and almost forgotten tracks, mountain tops and gorges, swims and climbs, and some challenging navigation. To my mind it showcased some of the best the Tararuas have to offer.