Ruahines trapping - Upper Makaroro

I have mentioned before that the Wellington Tramping and Mountaineering Club maintains some trapping lines in the Ruahines to help protect Whio.  Last time I went (July 2017) the trip ended up clearing one line in the western part of the range and doing a fair job of clearing the track of snow flattened trees and branches.

Being somewhat asocial when it comes to club activities, I don't engage enough to put my name down when a trip comes up on the schedule. However, I have said I'm available if needed. Amanda, who doe the sterling work of rounding up volunteers and keeping the trap lines maintained, has e-mailed to see if I can help do the rounds of the club's main area in the upper Makororo catchment (north eastern part of the range) - this should be fun.

What:    Trapping Trip for Whio protection
Where:   Ruahines - upper Makaroro
When:    27-28 January 2018
Who:      Amanda, Illona, Fons, self
Map:




We're not in the Tararuas anymore Toto



Yellow is where Amanda and Ilona went

It's about five hours from Wellington so it is well dark by the time we are driving through a forest plantation with rabbits scuttering for cover in the headlights. We stop at what seems to be a random section of road - the presence of two cars indicating that the four-bed Sentrybox Hut might be full already.

Amanda and Illona debate camping on the paddock as there are limited flat spots around the hut, but fortunately we wander the few minutes up the track to discover it is empty and tidy. It's compact so we maneuver around each other as we head straight into bed.

In the morning rabbit baits are distributed. I'm not sure how the process works to turn the Flopsy Bunnies into what looks like hairy date squares - but I'm pleased it doesn't happen in my kitchen. Trapping kits (bum bag with tools for opening and tripping traps and other essentials like gloves and hand gel) are also handed out.

The grunt up the hill starts immediately behind the hut. It's a bit over 700m climb in warm clag and Ilona sets a good pace. She also manages to keep a steady chat going with Amanda - clearly way too much energy. It's pretty good going, a few slippery bits with black leaf hummus lower down and a rocky out crop part way up where there would probably be a good view.

At the top we join the ridge forming the eastern boundary of the Upper Makaroro river catchment. At between 13 and 1400m it is below the bushline which I find a bit weird (the bushline in the Tararuas is usually 11-1200m).  It is very pretty even in the clag. A wide track corridor through short mossy beech with some thick old emergent stumps and lots of herbs underfoot.

Illona and Amanda ensure the newbies watch and then practice trap handling. The simple routine quickly becomes automatic: open, disarm, check and clear, rebait, rearm, close, next ... and so it goes.

The traps are DOC 200s - named for the force with which they close.  They are screwed into plywood boxes with mesh ends designed to minimise non-target catch. The bait is dehydrated rabbit - which we place beside the trap mechanism. Other baits and lures can be used including eggs, which introduce a whole new level of handling challenges.

First trap - time for a lesson

Fons - lifting the bar

Once Amanda is satisfied that we won't be causing difficult paper work by jamming fragile fingers in the wrong place, she and Illona head off leaving Fons and I to walk the line. They are heading around to the top (north) of the catchment to follow a spur south which has a line of A24s. These are the gas powered Good Nature traps which are self clearing - in the sense that anything killed is dragged off and eaten by something else.

We soon get into a rhythm and make good progress - so much so that we catch up with the other two when they have a pause.

The trap numbering is a handy marker of progress so we know when we are approaching the intersection with the track up Golden Crown Ridge.  The intersection marks where the catchment boundary swings west to traverse the northern edge. The intersection is in a boggy clearing so we don't sit down as we have a bite and adjust kit.

The herb field underfoot looks different to the Tararuas - I note there are a lot of Sundews, festooned with sticky insect catching droplets.

The trap line up here has been done recently so we swing along just glancing into check the traps haven't been sprung.

It's about a kilometre to Aranga hut which is a dump. I've previously waxed lyrical about Waiotauru Hut being the biggest dump in the Tararuas, but Aranga compresses dumpyness  into a far smaller area which intensifies the impact. We swiftly close the door on a hut that has clearly been written off and is being left to decay.

Aranga dump

After the hut the track climbs briefly to extensive hilltop scrub/herb land and we briefly see Ilona and Amanda in the distance, about to disappear down their spur.

If this is the tops at 1400m then what's that tree doing up here?

Fons and I continue around the ridge taking a break for lunch on 1396 after a dip through a bushy saddle. We are just on the borderline where clag blowing in from the south is breaking up. The view north comes and goes as the boundary shifts. From here we are following the ridge SW down the western edge of the catchment - the tops are fairly broad and there's a dog leg west to climb to Piopio.

North from 1396 towards Ikawatea

The traps along this section prove to be a bit harder to find - the trail through the tussock is not very clear and the wee poles by each trap can look like a stick. As they have been checked recently we continue to just glance at them as we pass.

The clag comes in and we have to resort to compass and map at times - Fons has an ipad with GPS which is a handy backup.

Some of the traps are missing baits (mice?) so we look more closely at them and rebait where necessary.  There's a brief excursion on to the wrong spur in the clag before Piopio but this is quickly identified and we are soon back on track.

As we approach where we will be leaving the tops to find Totara spur, Fons realises he has dropped a water bottle - he pops back to the last few tracks he checked to not find it while I snooze in the tussock. The warm clag and little wind makes it quite pleasant.

The navigation to find Totara spur is tricky - the top is wide and featureless and the traps are very difficult to spot - we only miss one but there's a bit of zigzagging involved. As we start the drop towards the spur though, the clag lifts and we are at last given views of the route we have taken during the day and the spur ahead.  We locate the first of the traps of the line we are rebaiting and swing back into the routine ... open, disarm, check and clean, rebait, close, next trap ...

The clag lifts ... Piopio on our ridge on left

I'm a bit faster than Fons so periodically I relieve him of a few baits - with the extra baits used on the tops we run out and have to crib a few from tomorrow's share.

The track is well formed and the spur is beautiful. Open beech with the sweet earthy smell of honey dew in the warm air. Beech leaves line the mossy path and further down there are Totara, Rimu and other species.

Pausing on the way down we are visited by some riflemans, Mr and Mrs bush tit, the odd fantail and a warbler.  To my untrained eye there are more birds here than I normally see in the Tararuas.

It's late afternoon when we drop down beside Upper Makaroro Hut. It's a four bedder and in good heart - a bit bigger and lighter than Sentry Box. There is information about Whio on the wall and in various trips in the log.

Amanda and Illona are well ensconced having finished their line and been for a swim. With all the tasks for the day complete we relax over dinner, which follows the standard club routine (shared dinner with one person tasked with bringing dessert) - Fons distinguishes himself by producing some interesting traditional dutch biscuits. We turn in early with daylight still streaming through the skylight.

In the morning Illona reports hearing Whio whistling which is duly noted in the log. Nice to know the object of the exercise is thriving (or at least still in existence).

The Party

There's no hurry - we depart at 7.30, after checking the few A24s at the bottom of Totara spur. We are immediately distracted by the buddleia on the river flats which Ilona demonstrates are exhibiting signs of being chewed out by a biological control agent introduced for the purpose (the bug probably found it's own way to this isolated patch of plants).

After crossing the 'river' we start the steep climb up the spur and back to the ridge we started on yesterday.

From near the bottom of the spur

It's a steep climb Parks Peak Hut. With four bodies the traps are rapidly checked - with a slightly faster rate of climb I tend to do the lion's share so soon run out of baits. We take a couple of breaks on the way to sit and exchange alarm calls with some whiteheads and to watch while the single dead stoat for the weekend is removed from a trap.

The best sort of stoat

It's good forest so there are few views back to the breaking clag on the tops. Near the ridge we get some glimpses including of Kylie Biv hovering on the edge of the cloud intermittently catching the sun (it's a bit further south from where Fons and I left the ridge yesterday).

Looking westish - Piopio on horizon in middle
Amanda & Illona's spur in mid-ground pointing towards the hut. Totara spur somewhere on left

Parks Peak Hut is on the ridge near the top of our track - on the edge of a clearing at about 1330m. It's a lovely looking spot - it would be great in snow.

Parks Peak Hut

We quickly rock north along the ridge encountering a couple of flocks of whiteheads in the low canopy that respond to our noises and come to investigate. Because of the additional baits needed yesterday we run out and have to split baits - Illona is not too bothered as there are also eggs in the traps which we leave to be cleaned out on another trip.

With the last trap primed we head down the spur we came up yesterday. Amanda and I are a little ahead so wait for the others at Rocky Knoll watching the clag curling and drifting in the eddies coming up the gullies. It's hot and the sun is trying to break through. As we drop lower it gradually clears to give a view across farmland to the island ridge formed by Wakarara Range.

In the open sun it gets even hotter - we come across drag marks in the dust and wonder if a hunter has been through - it turns out to be a woman with two children and a tot on her shoulders (not sure who she was dragging!). We are somewhat impressed - it's no small feat to navigate the steep track in such fashion in this heat. They catch up as we wait at Sentrybox hut - she used to live nearby and remembered coming up the track as a child - it's fantastic to see the connection being carried to another generation.

The car is hot, and with four sweaty trampers just a little ripe for the start of the long drive home. However, it's early afternoon so we have plenty of time, just stopping at a rather good cafe in Norsewood. We say our farewells at Wellington Railway station with that little warm glow of having made some tiny contribution to the survival of Whio in the Ruahines - and, who knows, maybe they'll spread to the Tararuas one of these days ...

Barron Flats MTB

Mike, Angela and Toby are heading to Nelson for the long weekend to look at houses - the prospect of a car with space for a mountain bike is too good to pass up.

There are plenty of MTB opportunities around Nelson but I'm looking for an interesting through or loop trip and not a MTB park or tourist trail. It pays to share such weighty decisions with your colleagues because someone suggests Barron's Flat track. I was dimly aware of but hadn't really registered it as a possibility. 

There's a bit of info on the DOC website and various MTB sites which all point to it being just what I'm looking for.

What:   MTB trip
Where: Kahurangi National Park - Mt Arthur area
When:   21 January 2018
Who:     Solo
Map:

Barron's track

The 3am ferry is always an interesting start to a weekend - not really recommended though as it takes a fair chunk of time out compared to flying. However, it's a good chance to pick up with Iona, Vicki and Alistair in Blenhiem. The rest of Saturday is spent snoozing with the air conditioning cranked up in the unit and good grub at Hopgoods in Nelson.

On Sunday morning Angela has gamely agreed to take on support crew functions so we head out early for the carpark - a small matter of 75km from Nelson at the top of a mountain (virtually). The road up is entertaining and we are a little surprised that we got the two wheel drive hire car up last time we were here.

A little after 8am I leave Angela beating off bumble bees (a good sign that there aren't too many wasps about) and follow the 4WD track up to Flora saddle.

Meanwhile, Angela wanders part way into Mr Arthur Hut and reports back later on the beautiful bush and abundant bird life - including lots of riflemans (kudos to Friends of the Flora).

It's a short hop up to the saddle then a lovely cruise down through beech forest on a good 4WD road to Flora Hut (a few people getting ready for the day) then Gridiron Rock Shelter (ditto). There's a 4WD parked up which, a camper informs me, belongs to some Friends of the Flora folk who are checking a trap line.

Flora Hut - centre of the universe

A hut of two halves

Gridiron Rock Shelter

I didn't take particular note but I think it was after the shelter that the track turned into single track on a good but at times narrow bench. There are a few turn offs but these are all well marked and it is clear where MTBs are not welcome.

Upper Junction (0840) has a swing bridge which requires a bit of wrestling to get the bike across (it would be a bit of a pain with luggage). On the other side the track sidles down river with a bit of up and down and frequent dismounts for tricky bits and side streams.

Turn off at Salisbury Track

Upper Junction Bridge

It's a couple kilometres of sidle track to get to the next track intersection (0900). A sign marks where my track starts a steepish climb and trampers can head for exotic locations like the Cobb Reservoir and Asbestos Cottage (yes, there's asbestos in them thar hills). I walk a chunk of the uphill although it would be rideable by the determined.

Options ...

A bit mucky

 Flora carpark to the start of Barron Flats

At the top the track follows along beside streams to eventually cross the sizable Grecian Stream (0950) and climb up to some broad flats. These have their moments in the dry but could be somewhat challenging in the wet.  The pattern repeats: crossing another stream and climbing to the plateau with Barron Flat (about 100m lower than the previous flats). 

A classic beauty in a Grecian Stream

A few roughish bits

Barron Flat to road end

As the track flattens on to the plateau it merges with a gravel road. It's baking hot by now and the surrounding scrub offers no shade. Time to just knuckle down and finish this thing.

There are a few intersections - the first ones have markers but there are one or two where it's not obvious - including after a really meaty gate designed to keep 4WDs out. The topo map and a compass are useful but the key thing is to make sure you don't climb to the pylon track which, although probably quite interesting and potentially offering views down into the Takaka River far below, might be a little lumpy.

The road clears the plateau and starts a long descent along a steep ridge with views to the Wharepapa/Arthur Range and down valley. The riding becomes high speed and challenging with some rocky and steep sections to contend with. I don't recall any confusion with intersections until near the bottom.

Upper Takaka Valley

Approaching a gate near the bottom at high speed the back tyre hits the wrong rock inflicting a classic snake bite puncture. I decide to push to the road and call for pick-up rather than repair on the spot. En route I note that I seem to be on a farm track parallel to the official access road but that this track is also used as there is a sign about the farmer being ok about visiting a cave - but please close the gates (or something like). 

With rescue on the way I replace the tyre on the road side before heading toward the hill road. With impeccable timing Angela turns up just as I'm about to start the climb.

Postscript

A good fun track - some really nice riding on 4WD track, intermediate single track and a bit of pushing. I found there were a lot of dismounts required for creeks which got a little tedious but hopefully serves to keep the numbers down. I don't think I would recommend it in the wet.

The fabulous Tararua earthquake lake

Kaikoura has a dramatically changed landscape - new land ripped from the sea, hills reshaped and roads smashed. And the Tararuas have an earthquake lake. We think it was from the same earthquake but nobody is really sure. Whatever - it's our earthquake lake. Although some may rather uncharitably apply quotation marks and even call it an "earthquake" pond.

Ever since hearing about it, I've intended to get in and have a look. Not least because there is a beautiful looking spur visible from Bull Mound that runs down from the Beehives on the Southern Crossing. There are also a few spot-heights in the valley, and the river itself is probably worth a visit.

It's not the sort of place I want to go on my own with winter river flows so it's just been sitting quietly on the back burner annoying the hell out of me.

What:   Navigation trip to earthquake lake, visit upper Tauherenikau and knock off some spot heights
When:  12-13 January 2018
Who:     Solo
Where:  Southern Tararuas
Map:      NZ Topo map

Arrow indicates approx. location of the lake
Have left off most of the boring track bits

There are a few options for the weekend and I don't make up my mind until midday Friday - despite being packed. The support crew is nothing if not accommodating and agrees to an after work drop-off at Otaki Forks.

The trouble with being a bit disorganised is that you forget stuff. Arriving at the road end I discover it's my belt - a shoelace is called into service as an effective if not elegant solution. Later, I discover I also forgot my lunch cheese.  Fortunately my packing list ensured nothing important was neglected.

Repurposing a shoe lace

Posing for the camera - Judd Ridge to right

The plan is to get to Kime Hut in the dark. Departing at 7.20pm I reckon I'll be there before 11.

It's a warm and calm evening as I amble on up. There's not a lot to progress but I know that when you get to the clearing with a view of Kapanui's rounded silhouette it's about 10 minutes to Field Hut.
 
The hut is empty and the log book full. I squeeze a few words in amidst some gormless twat's cribbage score inside the back cover and head for Kime. At 8:55 the light is waning but it should be better on the tops. Rounding Table Top though, there's clag on the ridge above and the wind is coming up.

Sometimes the Tararuas will give you a bit of a slap to see if you're paying attention. The clag thickens just above Dennan (1200m) and although not cold, the rising wind and mist whips heat away. To keep myself amused I've been thinking about types of risk (actual, perceived, managed, residual, acceptable ...) but the drop in light and temperature (and my glasses misting up) prompts a bit of a pause and attention to the risks at hand.

Hunkering down, I crack out the light and review the map. The route is very familiar but the pair from Te Papa that died in a blizzard are always front of mind up here.

The top of the ridge is wide and rounded. There are snow stakes with reflectors and a pretty good ground trail but there are also false trails and lots of scope to wander in circles. The clag is thick and the poles are only visible from about 10 paces away - with about 30 paces between poles this means pausing at each, taking a bearing and following the trail that leads in that direction.

It's slow progress but goes smoothly. I'm not aware that I've reached the hut until I blunder into the sign. It's 10:20pm and there are about 10 punters already in their pits. I get myself sorted in the vestibule and creep in to claim a mattress.

One party is up at 5am and away before 6. I'm a bit more leisurely and get away about 7:15 before the large group that came through from Kaitoke yesterday.

Kime - claggy but good visibility

Half an hour later I'm on Mt Hector in the usual conditions.

Kime in its element

Descending from Hector along the Southern Crossing I count the lumps. The second beehive is in thick clag so I take a bearing off the ridge and hope I'm dropping on to the spur. All good - the spur has some rocky knobs that can be scrambled over or sidled and fairly soon I've dropped out of a cloud ceiling at 1400m (with eddies dropping it to 1300m). The spur ahead is revealed and distant slopes catch the sun.

Looking down spur from just below the Beehives

Looking back up the spur to the Beehives

Looking down to the knob on the spur at 1280m

There's a few rocky scrambles that require care but overall it's a delightful wander down with some ground trail in places.

There's a knob marked on the map at 1280m (a trail sidles to the south of the knob). The main spur continues but a substantive side spur splits off SSE - I suspect others follow the main spur although it looks very steep at the bottom.

My spur is clearly visible from above and there's even a faint marks in the herbs underfoot leading down. I pause to relate the terrain to the map and fix it in my head.

My spur

The spur is beautiful. Mossy goblin forest, with beech and leatherwood then beech, totara and other stuff ... and lots of moss. It is straight and well defined with a pretty good trail in places - probably mostly animal. The trail breaks up near the bottom where I arrive at a wee terrace to fossick about for a way down to the river. It has taken about 30 minutes to get from the top to the bushline and another 50 to the river.

My spur

This is the Tauherenikau River and I'm going to be in it for a few kilometers. Although a bit larger than I was expecting it is really just a large stream. I figure the flow is a bit above average summer flow.

It's generally pretty good going - the usual occasional scrambles around deep pools and over log jambs. The plan is to head down stream to approach the earthquake lake from above and hopefully find a way through or around.

It's less than 15 minutes from the spur to the lake. The water level is a bit lower than when the photo on Stuff was taken but otherwise looks the same - steep bushy sides, clear deep water and a jumble of rocks blocking the river.

The 'Earthquake' lake
The water used to be up to the base of the foreground rock

Up to my waist in it

The flow is gentle and the bottom clean. An exploratory wade determines that I won't get through with my pack on. By dint of feeling my way on tiptoe I get through with my pack on my shoulder and the water just below neck level. It would be a painful grovel to try to work through the bush.

The massive slip has blocked the river, with trees smashed in among the rocks. The river is slowly washing away its foot and the opposite bank but there is plenty more material to come down. Looking at the modest size of the 'lake' and the mass of the slip I don't think there is danger of a sudden break through, but with the unstable slip and huge gashes that falling rocks have ripped in the logs it's not a place I want to hang around.

The dam

Last view of the lake

Looking up the slip

 Below the slip the river tumbles down through rocks and a jumble of logs. It's taken 20 minutes to get through (and take photos) and I'm keen to get moving as I'm soaked and starting to shiver.

Log jumble below the slip

It's almost 2km and an hour to my next junction. The river tumbles through deep pools and an occasional slot but it's all navigable. At the intersection with the stream off Hell's Gate it's 10:55 - I stop for a bite and to plot the next move. The aim is to get to 892 and follow the spur down to 686. The slope up to 892 looks steep and little delineated.

At the first stream off the side of the side stream (following me?) I take a bearing and scramble up through the bush. It's the usual mucky lower level but pretty good going higher up. I note there are lot of Phyllocladus sp in the understory - I'm not sure which, but assume it is Mountain Toatoa. It's an interesting tree as the leaves aren't (they are flattened stems).

On the spur at 892 (11:55) I could imagine that people have been down this way but it's not that obvious and it is often necessary to take bearings as the spur top is wide in places and the shape not that obvious.

Typical bush on the spur

686 turns out to be on a wide flat top with an open under-story. Every now and then a passing patch of sun lances down to the floor - time for lunch.

From here there's little to choose between headings as the spur end is rounded. I opt for the most direct route down river.  It's easy going as there are an awful lot of animal trails.

This is the one of my assessment points - the river is likely to be much bigger and could be challenging - so much so that it could force a retreat back up a spur to Bull Mound. I peer through the trees to see what it looks like as I approach the bottom (1:14). It's noticeably larger but the valley floor much wider with a gentler slope so Plan A is go. The trick now is to count the side streams and not miss Josephson Creek.

The Tauherenikau looking much more river like

Pt 596

Rounding a corner a very steep knob swings into view - that's my next target.  The map shows some very closely spaced contours - so I study it carefully as I approach.

It's about 2pm as I clamber into the mouth of Josephson Creek to find a spot to start climbing the knob. Animal trails zigzag a way through the unclimable bits but it is hand-over-hand up through low scrub onto a sharp spur. Very steep but within my comfort zone.

Part way up I just about run into a deer rear. The stag is about 5m away and my 'Hey!' doesn't cause it to run away - it just turns to look, pauses and then ambles off. I hope they never forget they are vegetarians as it was a lot bigger than me and had the advantage from the terrain.

The top of the knob and a sit down. No view but there were some nice wee spots on the way up. I don't fancy down-climbing what I just came up so take a bearing south to swing around onto another spur where the bluffy bits seem to open out a little. It is a steep scramble through forest but again, animal trails help me avoid a creek slot and get me to the bottom.

The final crossing

This little spot-height excursion (exertion?) whilst fun has used an hour and there is now a 600m bash up to Bull Mound to contend with. I say good bye to the Tauherenikau and find a way into the bush.

Normally, the top of the spur provides the best travel but it is quite rounded and I can't see any evidence of people so I watch where the animals have been and follow, despite the somewhat meandering course. It seems to work well - particularly in the lower reaches where they have worn benches in the shingly floor just off the spur. However, I'm not feeling so sprightly and avoid looking at watch or altimeter.

After a long while, the slope lessens and rounds and the trees shorten and are interrupted by bands of scrub. Still no sign of human trails. Eventually the direction of the slope is barely perceptible and I break into a large clearing (huge) - this look familiar - the track must be around here somewhere.

It's nice to be out of the bush. I can see the Beehives and Mt Hector lurking in clag and cloud is piling in from the north west. It is sunny in the Wairarapa and calm here. Bull is a rounded top ridge below the bush line but with extensive boggy herb field and stunted bush. It's a good place to spot deer and I startle two today. My spur from this morning comes into view.

Hector in cloud, Beehives just to left
The knob at 1280m is at centre (faint 'A' in the middle of photo)
My spur is the left arm of it

North along Bull Mound, Tararua Peaks on horizon
Neill Ridge in middle distance

After hooking up with the Bull Mound track I wander along enjoying the openness. And thinking about the number of people likely to be at Alpha Hut. The plan is to exit via Quoin Ridge tomorrow, but the only piece of new territory that way is a tiny section from about the 700m contour down to Hutt Forks. I weigh it up and find it wanting - it can wait for another day.  If I put the hammer down along Marchant Ridge the road end should be achievable not too long after dark.

Fortunately Bull Mound has reception, although my cell phone is a little sulky about the moisture from the lake (despite a clip seal bag). A few texts to the support crew confirms the plan change. Right - it's about 5pm - I need a drink, a bite and a sit down then better get going.

The change in plan means that the water that would have seen me easily to Alpha is less than needed. A trickle draining the swampy hill crosses the track near 1107 and provides the solution - albeit, like Muldoon's view of Auckland in the '70's ... somewhat browner than I would wish.

DOC has done a great job of clearing the Marchant track - branches and deadfall have been cut through and vegetation cleared. A bit of mud but as near perfect as you could wish. I nurse the body along watching the time.

NZ bush will usually have a few blowflies hurtling about - most noticeably on hot days. There are a few about now and for some reason they find my head irresistible. Possibly all that delicious sweat - or it might be that the ripeness of my bush shirt is a carrion call they just can't ignore. Either way, the recurring pattern becomes the sound of a fly blundering past then a brief pause as it's tiny brain registers - 'Hellooo, what was that!' and it swings around to attempt a landing from behind. It's too hot to wear a hat and soon becomes infuriating. Must be tired.

Last of the sun catches 656 on the Dobson loop track (probably)

Finally, the long Marchant is over and the track turns sharply left to sidle and drop to the Dobson turn off (a lot of windfall cleaned out through here). Then the interminable saunter down from 650m to 500m. The evening sun slants in through the trees accentuating the greens and golds.

From the final descent at Pt 529 the track hasn't been cleared so there's a bit of gorse to contend with. It gets dimmer and dimmer but I'm determined not to get the headtorch out, just making it through the last forest section by Kiwi Ranch in the gloom. 9:20pm - and all milestones met.

Wrap up

A tiring day at 14 hours but very satisfying. The 'earthquake' 'lake' is hardly spectacular but is pretty much exactly what I anticipated. The level of the lake is likely to vary and I wouldn't rely on being able to wade it (it should be an easy pack-float though). It's great to have got to it and the upper Tauherenikau is well worth visiting.

The three spot-heights were a bonus that tested navigation and agility. As for the morning's spur - it's almost tempting to repeat that part of the trip. Plenty more spot-heights yet though.

Relatively few injuries but a full day afterwards making old man noises every time I moved. Kit all performed well with the exception of my 'new' gaiters which, at the current rate of depreciation, seem likely to last 5% as long as my last set.