South Saddle to Tapokopoko

Mike has organised a trip to Paua hut in the Orongorongos with options for the adventurous and not so adventurous. I have some ideas about a reccy along the ridge south of South Saddle in the wake of a suggestion from Tararua Tramping Club that a track be put through.

As usual, punters express interest then can't make it and on the Saturday morning Mike isn't quite up to the early start. Accordingly, the main assault party which is planning to climb to South Saddle then follow the ridge south to 797 and down the spur to Waerenga hut consists of me. This suits fine - the company would have been welcome but a smaller party opens the door to some variations that I have up my sleeve - depending on how the day pans out of course.

What:    Nav and Paua Hut chill out
Where:  Rimutaka Range south of South Saddle
When:   28 January 2017
Who:     Solo nav, then chill out with Angela, Mike, Toby, Jo, Rodrigo
Why:     Pick up a new section of the Rimutaka Range
Map:      Map

It's a little overcast but promising to be a good day as I leave the carpark shortly before 7.30 am. There's little of note on the way in.  I run into a ranger who is relatively new to the area, he's interested in my plans for the day but hasn't heard about a possible track along the ridge. He asks me to look out for a pair of secateurs he thinks he left on a post near the Turere bridge loos (I check but can't find them).

The main assault party

The river is a little up  and the course has changed since I was in last - there have been some big flows through which have cut new channels. Dry boots are not going to be a goer today.

I head up around Big Bend where I figure to introduce the first variation on the original plan. According to the map there is a bit of a face developing into a spur on the true right of goat stream. I scramble up into the bush and soon come across a respectable track running up river I follow it for a bit and it comes to a hut (probably the second north east of Goat Stream). I decide to back track a little and head up in order to be closer to Goat Stream. Sure enough I skirt around another hut a little higher up the hill and near the stream bed where a home made marker indicates a route to South Saddle - this is going to be easier than I thought!

There is a good foot trail which, as usual, is hard to decipher in parts but it is pretty good and there are a generation of markers including relatively recent ones for pest control.

This tree had five or six markers on it - go figure!

As I gain height the goat stream catchment on my right reveals its steep, eroded faces and later on there are occasional views back to Wellington. The going is pretty good.

Looking up into Goat Stream catchment

Looking down Goat Stream - my spur on the right

Across top of Goat Stream towards Wellington

Although overcast, the sun is cracking through at times and I'm feeling the heat. Around 500m the spur joins a big spur that runs up beside Matthews stream. There are a lot of pest markers around and it looks like there is a route up that spur (this had been my plan A). There is also some home made markers indicating a sidle route to South Saddle. I'm a bit tempted but am in climbing mode so keep following the steepening spur to the main ridge.

There is nothing remarkable about the top of the spur - it rounds off into messy bush. You can fight to the edge of the slip face for a view east but I don't bother back tracking to see if there is a view over the saddle. The pest control teams have been through though and there are traps and tape markers for a way along the ridge which makes the going a bit smoother for a short while until they run out (I think less than half a K past 701).

An occasional clearing gives views in all directions and are not as difficult to navigate as those further south. I'm even treated to a fine view of Mt Matthew's backside. The wind sculpted beech, weathered stumps and epiphyte festooned trees testify to the weather conditions that predominate.

From 701 the occasional view south west gives a perspective of the main ridge and the various important spurs including the original target for the day (from 797 to Waerenga hut). I'm thinking though that there is plenty of time to potter along a bit further.

797 with the spur running west to Waerenga hut

After 701 the ridge dips into a saddle then climbs. I can't find much in the way of tracks - even animal tracks seem a bit scarce. Consequently I vacillate between walking the knife edge on the ridge top, picking through scrub above the steep western slopes or grovelling through steep slippery bush on the eastern side. At one point I dislodge a boulder which smashes down through the bush for a long while before dropping out onto an eroded face where it booms and crashes its way out of ear shot. I continue to sidle picking hand and foot holds with care.

Unnamed knob with the spur down true right of Mukamuka stream running to the left

The ridge leading to 797 provides views down Brown's stream to Turere Bridge where I can just make out tiny dots that could be people enjoying the patches of sun on the river bed. It's a fantastic perspective on the valley below. The ridge also provides the on going challenges of windfall clearings with tree trunks rotting into deep grassy scrub.

Looking west the clouds are gathering and the patches of sun are getting smaller. Still, it's a damn sight more pleasant than a previous time up here.

Down Browns Stream towards Turere Bridge

Not the easiest country to navigate

Mt Matthews in centre - ridge north running to the left

Point 797 is every bit as unremarkable as I remember it. I take a breather and, as it is only 11.20, notify home command that I'll keep going past 797 to Tapokopoko to descend Paua Ridge.

This now marks territory that I have traveled on a trip up the spur from Waerenga hut then south to 743. The top is rounded and covered in fairly thick bush. I don't identify anything marking the top and take a compass bearing to find the continuation of the ridge.

I soon find myself in a 'clearing' which is pretty unpleasant to work through and it's a while before I can make my way into more open bush. I'm not sure whether I have twice missed an obvious route (quite possible) or whether there is no easy passage.

Once the ridge is a bit more distinct there is often a bit of a trail along the south eastern side but it is pretty overgrown so not exactly speedy going.

A brief window to Palliser Bay

Approaching 768 the top of the ridge gets kind of complicated. There is an open notch or gully which is apparently traversed by many animals and provides a by pass behind 768 - last time through I missed 768 in the clag and had a bit of trouble making sense of what my compass was telling me. This time there are no troubles apart from a brief struggle through a clearing. I startle a deer which bounds off from less than 20m away - it must have been deaf given the noise I was making.

 Shortly after I break out onto a virtual lawn leading towards Tapokopoko.

Notch along the ridge near 768 

A glimpse of a sunnier Wairarapa

I take a break sitting on the grassy slope looking out towards Wellington. Figuring it's a short hop now to Tapokopoko I reach for my map only to discover an empty pocket. I'm more irritated than concerned. Up until now I thought my Merino cycle top was an excellent tramping shirt. Apparently maps can work their way out of the back pocket even when squashed in by the hip belt. Aside from the question of litter there is now the small matter of finding and navigating down the spur.

I follow an animal trail up the clearing which rapidly degenerates into a thrash through scrubby bush - I did this last time too - there has to be a better route! After a bit of a climb the bush opens and the ridge flattens - I'm pretty confident that I will recognise the human detritus that marks the top and sure enough soon see ample signs of previous visitors - official and otherwise. It's about 1:10 now so plenty of daylight to get lost and found in.

Sign marking ecological study area

Top of Tapokopoko

I remember from the map that the spur is quite well shaped most of the way and that it flattens then jinks right towards the bottom. As it happens there are markers from the top and I am soon following a good ground trail. It is pretty easy going most of the way - occasionally the spur broadens and I lose the trail but things go pretty smoothly. At one point a trickle runs out of the ridge and someone has carefully built up a wee pool and left a trowel beside it. I clear the leaves out and use the trowel to do some repairs but have enough water for now.

Paua oasis

Around 250m the ridge jinks and I neglect to. I find the marked stream but make the mistake of following some markers that someone has laid running towards Nettle Stream. This ends up with a steep scramble down a scrubby face and a short plummet into a ditch full of gorse. It's nice to be standing on the flat 4WD road but I'm not sure which direction Paua Hut is in - the shape of the valley floor doesn't tally with my memory of the map so I set off in the wrong direction for a while before common sense reasserts itself. The cloud has gone and the afternoon is now baking hot as I trudge up the valley.

Paua hut is located at the foot of a spur in open beech forest. The forest ends abruptly in a cliff providing a shady balcony to sit and gaze up the sunny river bed. This is exactly where I find the rest of the party reclining in the shade. It's about 2.30 so there is plenty of afternoon left for relaxing.

The numbers have dwindled to the point that Jo and Rodrigo are the only non-family members present. They have come in along Cattle Ridge and down Browns Track and appear to have spent a bit of time browsing and drowsing after their exertions. They still have plenty of energy though so Mike wanders up river with them leaving Angela and I to chat the afternoon away - very pleasant indeed.

Anglela contemplates the river

While we are sitting a hunter staggers out of Greens Stream below us and totters off up valley. He's either drunk or carrying something very heavy. We can't quite make it out but he plumps himself down by the river and spends an awfully long time composing himself. He takes his boots off and dunks his feet in the river and just sits there. Eventually he starts fiddling with his gear and then finally stands up and props his pack up. There's a brief struggle and then he's standing again before wobbling off and around the corner.

Throughout all this we are hoping that Mike and co will return and be able to tell us what was so heavy - no such luck. We have started dinner by the time they get back and it turns out that they kept wandering all the way up to Matthews Stream. In the course of this they confirm that the best swimming hole is in the river just below Paua hut - Jo and Rodrigo head down for a dip while Angela and I get on with our respective dinners.

Toby has spent the entire afternoon in his tent and barely emerges in the evening before turning in for the night. What has that boy been up to!?  The rest of us eat and enjoy a clean skin bottle of wine that Jo has brought - a very approachable shiraz is the verdict. Angela, Mike and Toby are in tents so with three in the hut that's about the perfect number to my mind. The night is quiet with a bit of wind in the trees and plenty of stars should one have been inclined to venture out.

In the morning Angela and Toby have to shoot through first to make another commitment so the rest of us have a leisurely breakfast before tidying up. Paua Hut is owned by the Wellington Tramping and Mountaineering Club and can be hired (members free - $7 for others). It has water, loo, gas and assorted crockery so you don't actually need to bring much kit (all the more space for pate and wine).

Jo, Mike, Rodrigo, Paua Hut

It's after 10 by the time we head out and amble up the river to Turere bridge. There's plenty of other people about including a family hunting group who had bagged three deer. There's another large group or two at Turere bridge and a fairly steady stream of people coming in. We take it easy and follow the main track apart from a short detour along the other side of the stream for the last half K or so.

Jo modeling suitable footwear for river travel

All up another successful weekend. I covered my quota of new territory and still had time for more social activities. The ridge south of South Saddle has some brilliant views and challenging terrain. Admittedly, a track would bring more people into a sensitive and, in places, fragile environment and there are parts off the ridge where it would be a challenge to establish a stable track. However, on balance I think the area can sustain more visitors and I think there is still enough near-wilderness experiences north of Mt Matthews for the more adventurous. 

Whether the powers-that-be will be convinced it is a good idea and if so whether there is funding for construction and upkeep is another thing entirely.

Palmerston North bike trip

When some families get together there is invariably a fight. In our case, there are invariably plans hatched for various bike trips that virtually never eventuate because the chances of diaries coinciding is pretty much zip. We still do it though.

This is one of those rare times when it actually happens. The original plan is for Wellington but Palmerston North is slightly nearer halfway and also happens to be one of those enlightened parts of the country that observe Wellington Anniversary. The intention is to go for a ride that can be enjoyed by all, without terrifying the less adventurous out of ever touching a bike again. Oh, and the usual good food and yack. 

Iona and Col gamely volunteer accommodation, food, transport and all those other small inconveniences that some hosts don't mind and some guests appreciate.

The Lower Hutt contingent are on the road by 6 am on Saturday morning arriving in time for pancakes and bacon for breakfast (after only one coffee stop on the way in Shannon). Over breakfast the plan crystallises, and the transport logistics are settled. The forecast is good and Palmerston North is enjoying an almost total absence of the gales that usually howl through its benighted streets. The Wind Farm Road it is then - and the convoy sets off.

Gorge Road

We negotiate the Manawatu Gorge, cross the single lane bridge into Gorge Road, and convene at the Bridge Cafe. Here the bikes are unloaded and the support crew (of one) is sent off to explore the shopping experiences that Woodville has to offer. The supposedly fitter two members of the party are dispatched to climb Hall Block Road whilst the more sensible ones head up in the ute.

Main assault party gears up 

Admiring glances at the beautiful blue Norco cross bike 

Hall Block Road takes an easy, winding route to the flat topped ridge. There's some pretty views over the start of the Gorge, the basin around Woodville, and across to the low hills in the east. One can't help but speculate how much prettier it would look if a slip finally blocked the gorge and turned it all into a big lake.

By the time we get to the top of the hill the main party has parked, and decamped south along the ridge. From the top there are views across the Manawatu Plains and even the odd mountain on the horizon. The most striking sight though is hundreds of wind mills doing bugger all - the lack of wind and the overcast make it perfect biking weather. 

Sister number one enjoying the view

Brother number two and sister-in-law cruise along the tops

The 'track' is a good quality gravel road that winds along the broad ridge with spurs to each of the myriad windmills. It's easy going, with little in the way of hills.  Part way along the ridge the main wind farm access road leaves us, and the track becomes more interesting. Deep puddles, clay, and the odd rocky base make the ride a little more challenging.

Just before the going gets muddy 

A few people have to assay inelegant dismounts as a puddle proves to be deeper or the exit more slippery than anticipated. Glenys and Peter, in an apparent attempt to out do each other, throw them selves respectively into a rocky puddle and a fence - a credible amount of claret gives Glenys bragging rights for the most spectacular 'off' of the day.

Iona rather unsportingly avoids the bottomless quag 

A long easy down hill on North Range Road brings us to the top of the Pahiatua Track. We re-group to exchange notes - yes we all came across the dopey bunch of walkers determinedly strung across the road despite five bikes coming through in succession.

We regroup again after the 200m drop down to Fernhills. The supposedly fitter members head off down Tararua Road which is in good nick and provides a nice little meander on gravel, but is definitely not a short cut. The sensible ones head north on Ballance Valley Road and eventually join into Gorge Road. We all arrive at the Bridge Cafe within minutes of each other and anticipating a late lunch.

The cafe service is a bit hit and miss but the food and coffee are pretty good and it's a nice spot. We exchange war stories and the support crew relates her experiences in Woodville and environs.

All up it was the perfect ride for the people and the day. It would be a good family loop although you may not want the littlees dicing with the traffic down the Pahiatua Track.

With the serious business out of the way the next 24 hours are given over to those other great family past times - eating and chatting. Tapas at Chez Iona and Col that night and then Aidan and Janne swing by and we head to the Elms for Sunday lunch.

A most satisfactory weekend.

Tauherenikau

Enough Christmas relaxation; time to get back into the bush. I'm a bit disorganised so head out Saturday afternoon for a not too demanding wander. The idea is to leave from Kaitoke, find a link to the Pylon Track, navigate down a spur to the mouth of Smith's Creek and head into Tutawai for the night. Next day; head along the Tauherenikau Ridge, drop down a spur at the south end and exit via the Puffer after visiting the Smith's Creek Waterfall. 

What:      Nav trip 

Where:    Tauherenikau area

Who:        Solo

When:     14 January 2017

Map:        Map

During the last year I have gone about getting into the hills on as many weekends as possible. In the course of this I have developed a strong preference for always doing something new, and gone to great lengths to avoid covering familiar ground. This weekend is no exception but - I will be covering a bit of ridge that was part of one of my first solo forays off the marked track. It will be interesting to see what I make of it this time.

It's 2pm on Saturday by the time I've got myself sorted and parked by Kiwi Ranch Camp. It's a bit overcast but there's good enough views on the way up the ridge.

View across Pakuratahi

On the map there's no track marked from the Puffer Saddle up to point 756 on the Pylon Track but it looks like an obvious route, and sure enough there is a pretty solid trail up through the bush, with occasional views over the Kaitoke/Pakuratahi Valley.

Pakuratahi from a little higher up

About 1 hr 20 from the car park, the track rolls over the top of the ridge and drops onto the 4WD track. There's little to indicate the intersection, but it should be pretty easy to find your way in reverse.

The well-formed road wanders along the ridge with views across to the Rimutaka Road and summit and beyond to Lake Wairarapa. The wind is getting up.

Rimutaka Hill Road

Gets a bit windy up here

I'm somewhat startled to come across a largish woman making heavy weather of it on the way up to 805. She is the tail marker in a family group that have come from the Rimutaka Summit, and are following the Pylon Track down to the twin bridges at the bottom. Shortly after, I run into the rest of the party who are lounging about on the road, waiting her approach. It's good to see people cracking into what is a bit of a grunt and somewhat of a logistical challenge.

My target is the spur that leaves the Pylon Track a few hundred meters past 805. At first I overshoot and find myself investigating the start of the Mt Frith Track; its marked with orange triangles from the 4WD track - I quickly identify the mistake and head back.

The going is pretty good down the spur, A ground trail comes and goes, but people have obviously been through before. There are a few view spots to look back towards the puffer saddle and up towards Marchant Ridge.

From spur looking west towards Puffer Saddle

I work down to point 714, which is where I figure it might get a little tricky. Sure enough there are some old markers, and it looks like there is a route running west down to Smith's Creek. I'm keen on trying to follow the spur further towards the junction with the Tauherenikau though.

The ground trail gets harder to discern, and a bit of casting about is required. Eventually, at about the 400m contour, there is no obvious spur and I end up just following a bearing and picking my own way down. Including through the kiekie-infested head waters of a few streams.

A bit of fungal flora

 Around 6.30pm I stagger off the bottom of the spur a few minutes up-stream from the Tauherenikau River. That part of the mission is accomplished.

Easy going on the track

The track here is wide and easy going. I amble along up valley to the swing bridge and then on to Tutuwai Hut arriving about 8.20 pm.

Last time I came through here was shortly before Christmas but in the opposite direction: pitch black and after a pretty tough day. It's kind of nice to  see the landscape this time.

There are a few parties at the hut but enough room for me. I'm a little unused to sharing with so many people and a dog though. I've brought the meths stove so heat up water for a dehy then turn in.  I may as well have stayed up given the noise as others sort out their sleeping arrangements.

The wind has got stronger during the day and it thrashes through the trees outside. The forecast for tomorrow is for more wind and some rain but I'll be below the bushline, so no worries.





In the morning I gather my things and head out onto the deck to pack, so as not to disturb others. I've decided to check out an old route onto the Mt Reeves Track, following a spur a little way up valley (true left Reeves Stream) that I've heard about.

I get away around 7.30 am and find the spur but don't identify anything like a track until I am well onto it - I suspect I left the main track a little early. It's pretty easy to follow up anyway and soon enough I've joined the Mt Reeves Track shortly before 646, about an hour after leaving the hut.

The bush is wet and the wind whips through overhead. I've brought a bush saw for the first time and soon have cause to use it to remove a windfall branch. As I potter up I think about the etiquette for hacking at the vegetation and work out a simple guide: only use it commensurate to the quality of track; - i.e. not at all if it is not marked on the map, through to use it lots to keep highly developed tracks easily navigable. Pretty obvious I guess.

This is the second time I have left the Mt Reeves Track to follow the ridge to Tauherenikau. The first time was my first real solo nav trip and I was somewhat nervous - I'm interested to see how the route compares to subsequent trips.

This time I find a more direct route onto the ridge and shortly a ground trail develops. I think I make slightly quicker progress, being a bit more confident about using map and compass. The ground trail is mostly pretty good, At times I found I've wandered off it, but there's no dramas. All up, no great difference to a lot of other ridges in the Tararuas really.

The top of Tauherenikau is every bit as underwhelming second time around. A pile of rocks, no view and, once again, wind whistling through the branches overhead. It's 10.40 am - time for a bit of Christmas cake soaked in whisky (thanks Iona!).

From here it is new territory. On the map I reckon there is a network of ridges and spurs that can be followed down to the top of the Tauherenikau Gorges. I'm planning to find my way along the ridge to 883, head west to 770, then west and south to the junction between Smith's Creek and the Tauherenikau River. It looks a little challenging, with plenty of opportunities to drift off down the wrong spur.

It all goes remarkably smoothly. The shape of the ridge is pretty clear at 883 and someone has put tape near the target spur. The trail at the start of the spur is a little unclear but pretty quickly becomes straight forward. I take some care to get to 770 and not head down the spur by Fan Stream. At one point I get a bit confused as there is an arrow indicating what feels like the wrong direction. Possibly a route down to the gorges. I soon work out where I want to be and unexpectedly discover orange DoC triangles at a couple of key points.

More fungi

Some open country

The bush is the normal mix but with a fair amount of open beech. Towards the bottom the ground trail peters out (or I wander off it), but there are occasional glimpses of the other side of the gorge so I just keep on bearing for the junction. As usual there is open beech that is easy to navigate but the lower slopes are lush and a bit more bashing is required.

High class pig wallow - wood lined

 About 1.50 pm I clamber down a couple of terraces and peer out at the river. If it's low enough I will find a crossing point. No such luck - it's up and a little turbid. I scramble back onto the terrace and start working up river to the swing bridge.

The Tauherenikau

I swap between terraces, and at one point some river flats, but it's fairly slow going. A little further along there are sporadic pink tape markers, and it gets easier closer to the bridge. A few minutes before it, I run across something called 'Camp Marchant.' Someone has taken time to set up a fire place and a bit of a camping area with a painted sign.

The bridge marks a return to civilised, wide tracks and somewhat quicker progress. With a lot of day left I figure I'm good to stay on plan and visit the waterfall in the headwaters of Smith's Creek.

At the last stream crossing before the climb up to the saddle, there is a flat spot after a wee clamber out of the stream.  I strike off into the bush, roughly south. A few minutes later I pop out at the stream, drop my pack and head on up.

The stream bed is pretty navigable although there are a few logs and pools to get around. The boulders can be slippery but I manage to keep my feet dry.

It takes about 40 minutes to get to the waterfall, halfway there the stream goes through a crumbling bluff requiring a wee scramble.

The stream drops off a bluff 15m or so high and down into a brown pool and that's as far as I'm going up stream. It isn't a particularly beautiful spot but streams and cliffs always have some drama about them, and there aren't that many waterfalls in the Tararua's so it's worth a visit.

I retrace my steps, pick up my pack, and head back to the track. Voices from down track indicate that someone is else is approaching the climb to the saddle, but they don't catch up so I'm left to my own devices.

A jogger passes on the way in and I take a few minutes to clear a couple of fallen branches but otherwise it is a sunny and uneventful trip out arriving at the car at 6 pm.

All up a highly successful trip. All milestones achieved and the weather mostly behaved itself.