Apart from landing me in Takaka for New Year, it looks to be a well laid out track with lots of huts. I figure on it being a further, relatively gentle introduction to the area.
My risk assessment is a bit different to usual with wasps and the propensity for water courses to rise rapidly featuring more prominently. I have no idea about the DOC track times (6-9 days) so am planning conservatively and hoping that huts are not going to be too crowded.
The sum total of my experience in the area is the Wangapeka trip two years back (which I will be following in reverse at the start), a MTB trip earlier in the year through Barron track at the northern end and crawling around and under Mt Arthur 30 odd years ago.
I'm planning to be on tracks so will be packing walking poles to see how they work out.
As it turns out the trip start and end points are as planned (Rolling River near Tapawera through to the Cobb Road at the Asbestos Track road end). There were some embellishments though with enough time in hand to pop up Mounts Arthur and Peel.
What: Multi-day tramp on marked tracks
When: 26 to 31 December 2018
Where: Kahurangi National Park, Karamea and Leslie Rivers and the Tablelands
Who: Solo
Map
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| The whole trip from blue to red |
Day one: Wellington to Stone Hut
It's a chore to get up early on Boxing Day after the usual Christmas nutritional excesses. A grey day in Wellington and the tower is barely visible as the clouds scrape across the airport. Air NZ cancel the Napier flight rather than the Nelson one so, despite initial misgivings; bang on schedule the support crew waves farewell as a disreputable figure in tramping boots shambles onto the plane.
Nelson Cycle Hire meets me on arrival in marginally more salubrious weather and we head off for the Wangapeka. Drop-off quotes prices are a bit eye-watering for a lone traveler (circa $300), but NCH had a competitive offer and JR professes to be more than willing to extricate himself from a hoard of relatives.
The Wakefield Bakery lets us down as we follow highway 6 out of Nelson, over the Spooners Range and drop to Kohatu - admiring the brand new section of the Nelson cycle trail on the way. The Kohatu cafe is also a no-show so we head down the Motueka Valley to Tapawera for a not too bad pie and coffee.
We meander into the hills past Tadmore, Matariki and acres of new hops.
The road remains completely navigable to the Rolling Hill River road end where my driver bids me an emotional farewell: "I'd better get a photo so search and rescue know what to look for."
The hip belt buckle on my trusty (30+ y/o) Macpac Torre has given up the ghost sometime since its last outing but I'm not about to farf about with it now. I set boldly forth under a blistering sun with a vague thought of bodging something in the evening using the chest harness.
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| Last seen wearing ... |
At 11am it's shaping up to be a hot and calm day. The track crosses grassy flats and slowly transitions to familiar beech forest. The track follows up the Wangapeka River valley past large deep pools. Wasp and DOC 200 traps line the route but I don't see any whio.
About 1hr 15 in, the track passes a wee lake formed behind a massive slip - the DOC website has some warnings about it but it is looking pretty stable now.
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| Slip Lake |
Two hours from the start the track crosses from true right to true left. This is also where the Kiwi Track hives off north, giving access to the Wharepapa / Arthur Range. This is the range that forms the Western horizon for Nelson and Tasman Bay; featuring such peaks as Mt Arthur, The Twins, Mt Sodom and Mt Patriarch. I'm aiming to cross to the river systems on the west side of this range.
I leave Kiwi track for another day and keep following the flatter path up valley arriving at Kings Creek Hut about 1:25 for a 15 minute break. Shortly afterwards is the more picturesque Cecil Kings Hut.
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| Cecil Kings Historic Hut |
The hardcopy and online topo maps are inaccurate here, showing a couple of river crossings and a climb that don't exist. On the ground the track just ambles sedately up the true left.
I've decided not to make a heroic attempt to get over the tops tonight, so there's plenty of time to potter along above the narrowing river. It shrinks and changes nature getting quite gorgy in sections before becoming a sedate upland stream. The track stays pleasantly shaded by tall beech forest.
Despite a little bit of track realignment further up it is all pretty easy going. At 3.45 its less than four hours since kickoff when I stumble onto Stone Hut. The hut is perched a little above the clearing at the confluence with Stone Creek and is empty. I find the log entry from my last trip through with Mike and Angela - two years ago.
Over the next couple of hours a young chap turns up that has followed me up valley, a couple of older trampers that have come from the Karamea end and another chap that camps on the flats. There's plenty of afternoon sun to have a wash, dry a few strategic pieces of clothing, bodge my chest harness into a serviceable hip belt then sit in the shade of a bush doing sudoku.
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| The day's progress |
Day two: Biggs Tops and the Karamea River
The couple are doing a day trip up Kiwi Track, over Mt Luna and down Stone Creek so carefully wake the hut before they leave shortly after 6am. The younger chap and I get up once they have cleared off and I leave the hut just before him at 7:10.DOC suggests five hours to get over the Biggs Tops route involving climbing from 660m to 1230m then a steep drop to Trevor Carter Hut at about 500m.
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| Morning at Stone Hut clearing - plenty of camping space |
A very short way up valley the track crosses an old avalanche boulder field then a shingle fan before climbing up the headwaters of the Wangapeka under forest. The sun is yet to reach into the valley but the tops above are promising a fine day.
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| Avalanche fan - route to Biggs Tops behind |
It takes about 40 minutes to climb to Wangapeka Saddle (1009m) which is the watershed to the Karamea River. The trees in the saddle are thin, closely packed and of an age - I briefly wonder if it marks old storm damage (but no logs) or clearance.
However, more importantly - this is where I leave the path once traveled and head into new territory. The sign says an hour to the bushline but the morning is not hot yet so I reckon it will be a little quicker.
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| Wangapeka saddle |
The beech trees get shorter and the Dr Suess-designed dracophyllum starts mixing in, covering the ground in masses of curling fronds. Riflemans pop by to protest the intrusion with high-pitched chirps. I think I hear a kea fly over but can't be sure.
About 35 minutes from the saddle the beech trees abruptly give way to the open tops. Above is the ridge that runs to Mt Luna and eventually Mt Arthur - southwards the Ellen Range marks the southernmost boundary of the Karamea catchment.
The Biggs Tops track follows along above the bushline- it's poled and generally there is a visible ground trail but you would want to keep your wits about you in clag as it's not always immediately obvious where it runs.
There's only a little bit of high cloud so the visibility is good - I look across ranges, valleys and peaks that are utterly unfamiliar. It's a sudden and stark reminder of how small a piece of real-estate the Tararuas are in comparison.
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| Ellen Range |
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| North west across Biggs Tops |
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| Karamea joins the Taipo on left, Kendall Creek Valley on right |
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| Mt Kendall on right |
I'm still getting used to the walking poles and find out the hard way that they can be a bit of a liability on a steep down hill. After one sticks in I do the best panel beating job I can and carry them in one hand on the steepest bits from there on.
The track does what the map promises - drops steeply down a relatively formless hillside. It's hard on the knees and gets harder when it veers to follow beside a noisy cascade. Eventually the slope eases for a pleasant amble through variable forest and clearings to pop out at Trevor Carter Hut. It's just before 10:00 so it has taken about 3 hours over Biggs Tops - these are ideal conditions though; in snow, clag or even if the ground was just wet it would be slower.
TC is new and very smart. Some helpful soul has left the mop on the porch to dry and fortunately the kea have only played with it a little bit. I pop it back inside and dutifully note my next intentions in the log.
The choices are head down stream on the true right to ford the Karamea at Orbit Creek (marked route), cross the river by the hut or head up river 15 minutes to the swingbridge. I elect to cross here as the river looks straight forward. I barely have to hike my shorts to keep my cell phone dry.
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| A benign Karamea River (up stream) |
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| Looking back across Karamea River up Lost Valley Hill with Luna slips on right (Karamea river flows around it), Biggs Tops up to left |
A little after 10:00 I head off down the marked track, in retrospect it would have been quicker to follow the route on the true right - the left side was generally ok but a bit mucky with tree fall; the odd soft bit; and a bit of meandering across the broad mouth of Kendall Creek. Soon, however I'm in what is to become a familiar groove - a broad path on old river terrace through mature beech forest.
The way is periodically interrupted by old avalanche debris fields, streams and, a little before Thor hut; a gentle climb away from the river before dropping down to the hut.
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| Old avalanche field |
Taking a short break I'm joined by one of the ubiquitous kakaruwai (south island bush robin). Although strong songsters I have found them strikingly inquisitive but not talkative up close. This one flits to sit on a proffered walking pole and listens politely as I chat inanely.
At 12:25 (about 2:20 from TC) I pop into a wee clearing with Thor Hut - a good old fashioned, bog standard NZFS 6 bunker. This is the first option for the night but clearly way too early so I just stop for a bite and fill in the log before heading on.
The stream names in this neck of the woods are an interesting mix celebrating the metaphysical (from the roman pantheon: Thor, Venus, Apollo, Atlas, Mars ...) and the physical (celestial objects and concepts: Satellite, Apogee, Comet, Star ....). Perhaps the whim of some early surveyor.
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| Thor Hut |
Half an hour downstream from Thor - the track joins the river edge on a rocky ledge with a chain along it - the chain is not necessary today but if the river was up I imagine you would be very gratefully for it.
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| Not the Queen's chain |
I've got used to not seeing anyone so am startled to bump into a sprightly, older tramper. Heather is a 75 y/o Tasmanian and is an absolute treasure. We stand and yarn for a short time but I leave considerably better informed than before we met. She has been tramping for the last two months and is getting a little bored with it - so much so that she has popped over here off the Te Araroa Trail for a bit of a change. She tells me about a woman she met at the last hut (Venus), others that she has seen and where she's off to (Karamea). I am able to inform her about the narrow piece of track she was mildly concerned about (the section with the chain).
She's a great advert for visitors who appreciate and make more of the NZ outdoors than most Kiwis.
At 2.05 (approx 1.30 from Thor) I pop out of the trees at Venus Hut - another crisp new(er) facility. It's perched high above the junction with Venus Creek which flows through a deep slot just north off the hut.
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| Venus Hut |
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| Flying nun? |
This was the more likely overnight destination but 2:20 still feels too early to be knocking off with a clear conscience. It's only 2 DOC hours to Crow Hut so let's just keep pottering along.
The milestone on this section is the track crossing what has become the somewhat mighty Karamea River. Enroute there is, of course, another beautiful side stream (Jupiter) cascading from another mysterious valley draining peaks and ranges beyond my ken. And more beautiful sections of moss-lined track through dappled beech shade.
At 3:20 I've crossed the Karamea high above a deep green pool.
The track counter-intuitively (particularly if you haven't been paying attention to the map), crosses under the bridge and heads up the true right for a bit. However, it shortly climbs to veer around a knob on an old terrace and resume its north east course. A couple of young women pass heading up valley but we don't stop to talk.
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| Crow Hut |
Crow Hut (4pm) marks (to my knowledge) neither god nor celestial object. It looks north west across the wide open valley bottom and promises to be a thoroughly pleasant place to wake in the morning. There's a fisher chap just about to set off down the track in order to fish back up river to the hut. My feet are feeling pretty mangled and I'm tossing up staying or continuing. He provides intel about possible camping spots (a few but not heaps) and track conditions (a bit of windfall).
So far I've been coming in under the DOC times and I'm thinking that the closer to Karamea Bend I can get tonight, the shorter the trip to Salisbury tomorrow and the better chances for spare time to explore the tablelands after that. I take a mental cement pill and set off after the fisher bloke, catching him as he clears some treefall a few minutes down track.
The proves to be the roughest section of track for the week. It's clearly the next bit due for maintenance with quite a bit of treefall and many sections overgrown. There's also a couple of sections on old river overflow channels that are uncomfortable walking. In the first of these I bump into an older kiwi couple coming up river who give further warnings about the track conditions.
At 6pm I reach the Slippery Creek swingbridge and am delighted to stumble onto the hut at 6.30pm. Only to discover; 1. the door is padlocked; and 2. the sign saying it is a DOC field hut. Gathering my wits I can see that Karamea bend and the intersection with the Leslie is still a significant sidle away.
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| Not the public Karamea Bend hut |
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| Thar be Karamea Bend (idiot) |
The sidle track in evening sun above the now quiescent river would, in normal circumstances, be a soul lifting amble. I maintain a disgruntled limp around the bluff on to the flats and along to the hut proper. At 6.45pm (about 2.30 from Crow) a Polish fisherman unintentionally becomes a feature in my hut-arrival shot.
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| Polish photo bomber at Karamea Bend Hut |
The woman Heather told me about is already in situ - Anne works for DOC and is good company. She's coming through from Little Wanganui (Karamea side) and is making the most of it; not hurrying like certain others. The two other occupants are a Polish father and son who pretty much tag team the river during the evening. They have been flown in and are fishing their way up river and out to little Wanganui.
As I remove socks and boots from battered feet, the sandflies descend in a ravening swarm. You forget how voracious they can be in these parts. However, I am not fit for company and have to brave the blood suckers to rinse the odours of the day into the Leslie River's waters.
The hut is large (sleeps 22) and enjoys an open aspect across the wide flats where the two rivers meet. It's a seminal point in the park with tiger country available downstream (unmarked river route to the Roaring Lion and Beautiful Rivers), spurs to the dramatic scarps and plateaus of the Garabaldi Ridge, access to the beating heart of the Park; the Tasman Mountains, the Karamea river track to the Wangapeka, Taipo, Wilkinson and a myriad other adventures-in-waiting.
I expect that I will be back.
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| Day 2 - a bit longer than expected |
Day three: Leslie River, the Tablelands and Flora Stream
Anne and I are ready to go just after 8 as the shadows retreat across the flats towards the hut. A sign promises 7 to 8 hours to Salisbury Hut, I picked up a figure of '6+' off the internet (opp direction) so I'm picking it will be around the 6.30 mark. Anne is intending to take a more sensible pace and make a day of it.
The track is in good nick up the Leslie and it's back to the pleasant amble along beechy terraces next a sparkling (albeit smaller) river. Occasionally the track sidles above bluffs in the narrower valley. A little under an hour in I'm crossing what I assume to be Leslie Clearing (site of an old hut?).
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| Top end of Leslie Clearing looking down valley |
A few times in the morning a helicopter thumps up or down the valley - I've been hearing these most days and it seems they are dropping fishers in. I can sympathise with people that find this too intrusive in a national park - it wouldn't take many movements to detract from the wilderness experience.
At 9:20 a foot bridge marks the intersection with the only other marked track to the Karamea - Leslie. The Wilkinson Track crosses Baton Saddle (1370m ish) from Baton River and is accessed from Baton Valley Road on the left bank of the Motueka River. Adding the times up on the sign I get another estimate for the time to Salisbury - 5hr 50.
It's sort of nice to see the old signs mixed in with the new, and track markers from various eras. Along with the well benched tracks and physical bric-a-brac, it gives a sense of the phases of human interaction - although the names have sadly largely lost their connection with Maori history.
I find some NZFS vegetation survey markers from the 1980s - I have a vague recollection that brother number 2 did such surveys in this park around then, but suspect it was further west. Two more fisher chaps pass heading down valley and a single woman. No one has time to chat.
About 10:20 I reach the swingbridge across the Leslie River. This marks where the track starts climbing to the Tablelands. It's a little under 900m vertical but plenty of time so I'm planning to just plod up. It turns out that the track is pretty well benched a lot of the way and sidles along the ridge rather than the Tararua trick of barreling straight up a spur.
Another fisher chap passes - this one is chatty as he is looking for the woman that passed earlier.
At the steady pace with some pauses it takes about an hour to climb to Splugeons Rock Shelter. This is an earth-floored shelter perched on a ledge with a plastic front. It has bunks and would be perfectly adequate accommodation.
About 2hr 30 from the bottom I roll out of the climb and into a wee alpine gully surrounded by stunted beech forest. Bulbinella flowers form pretty drifts of yellow with silver splashes of astelia among the tussocks.
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| Pretty much all the climbing done |
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| The bush edge onto the Tablelands |
It's a dramatic transition from deep river valleys to the flat tablelands. The water hereabouts now drains north to the Takaka River. Large, tussock covered clearings shelve gently to streams that cut gradually deeper into the landscape.
To the east, Gordons Pyramid rises from the plain marking the edge of the rugged hills of the Wharepapa / Arthur range and the northernmost boundary of the Leslie catchment. There are interesting glimpses of marble on Mt Arthur.
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| Gordon's Pyramid on left, Mt Arthur and peaks to the south rising to its right |
The first order of business is to follow the poled route to the junction and the choice of left to Ballon Hut or east down Starvation Ridge to Salisbury Hut giving access to the Takaka and Flora Rivers, Gordon's Pyramid and Mt Arthur.
There is cell coverage so I call the support crew to say I'm over a day early and will be adding some embellishments to the trip. With luck I will be able to get up two of the peaks flanking this area; Mt Arthur to the east and Mt Peel above the Cobb Valley to the west.
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| Salisbury/Balloon Junction |
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| Gordons Pyramid behind Salisbury lodge |
Arriving at Salisbury Lodge at 1.30 means it has taken about five and a quarter hours from Karamea Bend. I contemplate a truncated tramping day and a lazy afternoon but the eight children infesting the hut rapidly convince me that my aching feet can last another 10 odd km to Flora Hut. I have half an hour break and leave the chaos behind.
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| Old marker with some challenging track times |
I'm finding that every junction is well labelled and mostly with time indicators. Some of the old signs are hand punched in tin.
The track from Salisbury drops gently through tussocks to follow the rapidly deepening gully of Balloon Creek. Before long I am on a lovely benched track sidling high above the creek through beech forest. A couple of trampers coming up valley are the only people I see on this section.
The track curves into the Flora Stream catchment and gradually drops to join the Upper Takaka Track at about 3.20 (1hr15 from Salisbury). This is the mountain bike route to Upper Takaka that I came through in January 2018.
I continue up valley on the benched track which, 10 minutes later turns into a 4WD track at Gridiron Rock Shelters.
About here I catch up with an older chap with a day bag. Andy is from FoF (Friends of Flora) - the volunteer group that is doing an impressive amount of pest trapping in this area. He's been doing K line near Salisbury Hut. As we potter up the road he tells me how whio have spread down the Flora and that the river is pretty much full now. They have a survey coming up with DOC which will provide accurate population statistics.
He offers me a lift in his 4WD to Flora Hut and I am sorely tempted. Some stupid streak of stubbornness takes over and I decline - something about doing the whole trip on my own two feet. The smell of diesel gradually dissipates in the hot, still afternoon air and I have four kilometers to rue the missed conversation.
At 4.45 (about 2hr 40 from Salisbury), I cross a wee ford and the road breaks into the Flora Hut clearing. To my relief there is a woman in one half of the hut and I appropriate the other. I limp down to the stream to wash body and clothes and manage to get everything dry in the remaining afternoon sun.
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| The Flora road is pretty substantial |
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| Flora - a hut in two parts |
The early rub points from my new boots have come right but they are making a mess of my little toes - one of which is now completely enveloped in a misshapen fluid filled blister. The afternoon at least gets everything dry and I do a better job of strapping them up - I'm thinking some more dramatic boot adjustment might be needed at home.
The hut is only 2km from the Flora Saddle car park so I am worried that leaving Salisbury will prove to be a bad gamble. However, despite a couple of early evening parties coming through they all decide not to stay and I'm left to a quite evening and early bed.
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| Day 3 |
Day four: Mt Arthur, Gordons Pyramid, some holes and Balloon Hut
In the morning the odd shower wanders through - I take my time in the hope it will clear but have a coat on as I start up the slope behind the hut around 8:40. |
| Last sight of Flora Hut |
At 1795m Mt Arthur is higher than anything in the Tararuas. I have been to the top once before - 30 years ago. I'm starting at about 900m and there is a marked route so I'm not expecting any challenges on the way up, but I'm thinking I might take an unmarked spur down.
It takes a little over an hour to climb the 400m to the Mt Arthur Hut on the bushline. The hut was crammed last night and a group are still inside playing cards. It's a busy hub this morning with two parties arriving and another preparing to descend.
The track is well travelled and I can't say it's familiar, but Horseshoe Basin brings back memories. Despite its size there's no surface water. Everything drains into the cave systems beneath and eventually passes under the ridge I'm standing on to emerge in the Pearse River in the valley far below. There were a number of happy trips as a student chucking ropes down holes in search of the one that might connect - giving the ultimate opportunity to climb a mountain from the inside.
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| Looking up Horseshoe Basin - top in clag |
I catch up with a party of four chaps on a day trip to the top who let me go ahead. The rock on the upper slopes is steeper and there are interesting little holes off to the side of the track. There are a few minor clambers but nothing exciting and the track takes a nice line to the top - emerging through a notch on to the wide top ridge, like climbing through a hatch.
The cloud has disappeared from the top giving stunning views down Horseshoe Basin but it lurks in the south shrouding the down range peaks.
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| South east from the top ridge towards Winter Peak |
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| North east down Horseshoe basin - ridge up on right, down on left |
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| Ed Hillary wannabe - complete with hat |
It's about 11.25 - less than an hour and a half from the hut so it really is an easy climb. The wind has got up a bit but it is warm on the top - after admiring the view I sit in the lee and check the map for the ridge down. It looks good with a possibly steep bit around 1600m but there seems to be a bit of a foot trail and the visibility is good so I decide to check it out - the alternative is to return down the main ridge and cross Horseshoe Basin on the poled route.
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| Looking back up the spur to the peak |
The spur is pretty easy going with only a few clambers required. The rock is incredibly grippy making it possible to walk down quite steep slopes. Below in Horseshoe Basin, holes open invitingly - there are quite a few on the spur that I'm sure have been well investigated already.
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| Holes in Horseshoe Basin |
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| Looking back up the spur |
East across the basin a tiny figure can occasionally be seen strolling up the ridge toward the top.
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| Looking across to other side of Horseshoe Basin |
At about 12.10 the poled route from Horseshoe Basin is easy to find with a strong foot trail. I turn to follow it north west for Gordons Pyramid but not before a lunch stop sprawled in the tussock out of the wind.
The clag has returned but there are interesting views beneath it across the karst landscape flanking Mt Arthur. South west of my ridge small creeks gather from the steep slopes to form the headwaters of the Leslie River.
Gordon is no slouch at 1489m so it's a bit of a plod to the top with the occasional tingling swipe from a spiky spaniard reminding you to be weary about hand placement. The wind speed has got to the point that wee bumblebees have grounded themselves on mossy patches beside the path.
Emerging from the clag cloaking the top, I catch up with a friendly older couple preceding me down Pyramid Ridge. They camped beside Salisbury last night and attested to the noise. They report that Anne had a less than peaceful evening. I grill them when I hear that they camped by Lake Peel two nights back and get some intel for my intended route tomorrow.
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| Dropping off Gordons Pyramid - Tablelands ahead |
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| Mt Peel touches the clouds on the other side of the tablelands |
There's a scenic loop from Salisbury lodge called Potholes Track - I reach the intersection at 2.20 so decide to potter around. It's a good call and I thoroughly recommend it.
The track pops out of the forest and proceeds to meander around a series of grassy dolines. The steep sided funnels drop from the surrounding beech trees like amphitheaters draining water to who knows where.
The final hole is a deep slot that swallows Sphinx Creek. The creek meanders down a meadow like valley before disappearing into the earth. On another day ...
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| Sphinx Creek up ... |
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| ... and down. |
A figure greets me and I'm surprised to see the chap from Stone Hut. He has arrived from Karamea Bend and is exploring the area around the hut. I point him to the Sphinx and head for the hut, arriving about 3pm.
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| Salisbury Lodge |
I have a good long break and eat while I study the map to hatch plans for my remaining day and a bit. A family group turns up and I decide I can convince my feet to carry me to Balloon Hut for the night which is likely to be quieter.
It's about 25 minutes to the junction where I joined the Tablelands yesterday and 40 minutes further to the hut. I'm not going fast and even ignore the opportunity to have a look at Bishops Cave in one of the sections of forest that interrupt the tussocks.
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| Balloon Hut |
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| View nor-norwest from hut |
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| Balloon Hut |
There's gear but no body at the hut at 5.30. I get busy washing in the last patches of sun and when I emerge from behind the hut Richard has returned. He's been up the track a wee way photographing a couple of kea that landed to check him out. This is more luck than I get all week - hearing one or two birds flying overhead each day but no close sightings.
He is the only other person in the hut and turns out to be from Wellington - he's a keen mountain biker and we exchange notes about various trips. He's also done some interesting Tararua tramps. This includes a loop trip from Poads Road behind Levin so that he could visit Richard's Knob. He politely laughs when I suggest that he would have to call his selfies there as 'Dick pics'.
The hut sleeps 14 and is fully serviced - i.e. including a gas stove. A perfect size for two. The night is mild although occasionally the silence is shattered by a weka loudly announcing ownership rights just outside the window. What with this and a bit of a fever I don't sleep well.
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| Day 4 |
Day five: Mt Peel, the Cobb Ridge and Asbestos Cottage
The morning breaks to clag. Richard has to get to Flora Stream to meet someone so I keep out off his hair and offer to do the hut tidy. I haven't got a huge distance to cover today and am hoping the clag will burn off before I get to the top of Mt Peel so don't leave until 9.25.
It's the second morning in a raincoat but still pretty mild. The wind gets up as I climb bringing damp clag in from the west and misting up just the left glasses lens.
Exactly as the map predicts the track eventually stops climbing and starts to veer along the side of the ridge which is my cue to leave it and follow the ridge norwest into the clag toward the peak. It is a steady, easy walk up across shingle, and mossy herb fields. The clag periodically shifts enough to give a glimpse of Lake Peel in its basin to the south east of Mt Peel.
The ridge is wide and easy. Once past the lake I'm a little surprised to see the Cobb Reservoir emerge from the gloom. It comes and goes along the final stretch as does the top. I'm disappointed that the ranges to the south and west are completely invisible.
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| Lake Peel |
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| Upper slopes, or the lunar surface |
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| The distinctive banana shape of the Cobb Reservoir |
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| Mt Peel |
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| Knocked the bugger off - but little to see for it |
It's only taken about an hour 10 from the hut so I have plenty of time and could wait around to see if it clears but decide there's no telling how long it will take if it will at all. A few minutes along the ridge though and the clag starts to dissipate - in the space off a few minutes disappearing completely to leave a hot blue day.
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| Going ... |
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| ...going... |
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| ... gone! Mt Peel on right - Peel Range continues on left |
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| Mt Peel on left, Cobb on right |
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| South east over Lake Peel |
With the radically improved visibility I'm much happier tackling the ridge down between Lake Peel and the Cobb Valley. The older couple yesterday said they met some Canadians that had traversed it and said there were just a few tricky scrambles. I make my way off the top ridge and note a bit of a foot trail confirming that it's a goer.
It starts easy and although there are a couple of scrambly bits there's nothing I feel uncomfortable about.
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| Spiky Spaniard |
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| Looking back up a scrambly bit |
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| Back towards the top ridge - Lake Peel on left |
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| Norwest up the Cobb River Valley |
At 12.05 I've joined the track again with the choice of left for a steep descent to Myttons Hut then the valley floor, right to sidle back to Lake Peel across the steep slope I have just clambered across the top of, or straight ahead (east then north) down the Cobb ridge.
A fluoro clad figure sitting in the tussock turns out to be what I expect - another friend of flora. Mike has just finished his trapping line along the ridge track and is having a cup of tea in the tussock before returning to catch up with Greg who has completed the line in the opposite direction.
He outlines the various lines they have in this neck of the woods and when he hears I'm heading to asbestos cottage points me to an old unmarked track that has a trapping line and would be quicker than the marked route.
I leave him and follow the trail - it's a little while since it has had maintenance so could be tricky to follow in clag but is fine today. The track meanders through tussock dropping slowly from 1400m and skirting occasional patches of stunted beech. It then pops in and out of forest and descends more rapidly to 1000m crossing the odd little alpine meadow.
At 1000m there's another intersection (left to drop to the Cobb Road or right to continue along the ridge or head over the Bullock Track. Greg and another FoF (a woman whose name I didn't get) are relaxing in the shade and are also happy to chat. They confirm Mike's instructions, chuckle about how fit Andy is at something north of 75 and are a bit surprised that I've been able to leave Mike behind - despite me having twenty years edge on him!
They also alert me to some native mistletoe a short way up the track which I hope I am alert enough to see. Mistletoe are semi-parasitic - relying on the host tree for water and nutrients (not to be confused with epiphytes that just grow on the host). They are also like cotton candy to possums so tend to get nailed.
As it turns out, even I can't miss the mesh enclosures around the plants which are in vibrant bloom.
The day is baking hot so I take my time as the track passes the turn off to the Bullock Track (which I had intended to take) then drops further before a hot climb to 1154. At the top is an old wooden sign marking my route - all exactly as Mike said. It's about 2.25.
I potter across what looks like an old burn and easily pick up a trail with various old markers and occasional traps. This soon develops into a wide trail in scrub then sparse beech. 25 minutes later there is a clearly marked junction (1040m altitude) with a trail diving off the side of the spur to head down and across slope to arrive at Asbestos Cottage a bit before 3.10. (I think the trap line continues down the spur).
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| Asbestos Cottage |
The cottage is baking in its clearing in the afternoon sun. I rinse in the creek, wash clothes and hang them and boots out to dry.
The hut has been done up by local volunteers with DOC support. It is famous as the home of Annie Fox and Henry Chaffey who lived here as virtual recluses for over thirty years from 1914. There's a bit of reading material about them and the refurbishment which keeps me distracted during the afternoon. No one comes by apart from a weka which suits me fine.
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| Looking into the kitchen through the porch |
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| Kitchen - four bunk room behind wall at back |
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| A somewhat dwarfed penny stove |
I have a mild concern during the night about rats getting into my stuff as the hut is very definitely not vermin proof. There are a few suspicious noises but no damage.
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| Day 5 |
Day six: Asbestos mines and out
It's about an hour and a half walk out with a scheduled rendezvous of midday. It's the perfect low stress finish as I can rise, have a coffee and breakfast, tidy up at a leisurely pace and take my time on the way.I do all the above and am away by 9.40 figuring to be out about 11 on the assumption that the support crew will arrive an hour early.
It's a rocky tramping track for the start sidling down towards a greyish-green bare area that I assume is the asbestos mine. The rocks have lots of green colours present and are more varigated than the granite and marble I have been seeing. I also wonder if the soil is a bit too mineral rich as the vegetation seems stunted.
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| The track drops towards the asbestos mine |
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| Not marble or greywacke ... |
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| Looking down into eroded mine area |
As the track rounds the spur above the mine it develops into a benched road that looks to me like it would have taken trucks. It's been washed out at Gabbro Stream but forms an excellent base for the track for most of the rest of the way out (except one diversion above - presumably to miss a slip). I follow the numbers on the traps to monitor progress as they count down to 1.
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| The last trap |
An hour twenty after leaving the cottage I emerge onto the Cobb Road to find that the support crew has just arrived with lashings of cold ginger beer. Perfect!
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| Day 6 |
Postscript
Good tracks and good huts in a fantastic environment. The section of track to Karamea Bend Hut was comparatively in need of maintenance but was fine really. The track down the Cobb ridge was a little less travelled and maintained and could be a little challenging in bad weather. There were only the three 'off track' excursions - the spur off Mt Arthur was fine but could be challenging in clag or rain, the spur off Mt Peel could be a little daunting for some as there is a bit of scrambling required which could be tricky in wind, the track down to Asbestos Cottage is pretty good although it is marked at both ends as unmarked - the top section can be a little hard to follow in places.I found the DOC website times to be generous but if you're taking a more reasonable pace they are probably about right. The posted signs in the park vary with some of the older ones in particular being on the fast side. The estimate on the DOC website of 6-9 days from Rolling River to Flora carpark is a bit over the top though.
Despite time of year and quite a few people around, Salisbury Lodge was the only hut where numbers were getting up. A few of the others could be tight at times but they were so close together you could often skip to the next one if there was an issue.
The newish boots butchered both little toes and the soles are harder than my last pair which leaves the feet feeling bruised by the end of the day. I have an idea to sort out problem one but I think the other is a result of the compromise in going for a more rigid sole.
I will most certainly come back to the Kahurangis although feel that I have reasonably explored the Tablelands area for the time being.
