Makaretu and Te Araroa

Perusing the map for weekend possibilities I'm surprised to find what looks like a new chunk of Forest Park. It's possible it was always there and I missed it - it's also possible that its status changed and someone got around to updating the map. Anyway - it has six spot heights and it looks fiendish to navigate - flat and with possibly pretty marginal bush.

It looks like a challenging day or overnighter so I figure to also pick up a cluster of four spots in the foothills behind Levin where Te Araroa briefly exits the bush before heading up to the Main Range. These were a step too far on a previous day trip.

Oh yeah - and the weather forecast is rubbish. The are no rivers but a couple of the streams could get gnarly.


What:     Navigation and spot heighting weekend trip
Where:   Makahika and Makaretu
When:    3 - 4 November 2018
Who:      Solo
Map:

Makahika - around and off Te Araroa 

The wipers are on for most of the drive up, but at least the Waikanae bakery is open for breakfast. There's a very old and battered camper van by the style as I leave the car at 8am. Someone slept here last night judging by the chock under the front wheel - no sign whether they are in residence or not at the moment. I head of across the farm land under steady rain.

Last time through was by headlight (also in the rain) - distances are shorter and I smile at seeing how close to the trail I was when I staggered into a pool full of farm rubbish. The stream crossing I was worried about is a non-event although not as high today.

There's a bit of stock about and a pair of paradise ducks take more umbrage than my presence surely warrants.

A wee camping spot with a long drop marks where the trail starts its transition into the quiet of the bush. It's very pretty here with some lovely groves of ponga. The old tramway is a great platform for the track as it meanders back and forward across the stream. Water drips through the canopy but down here the weather becomes a secondary consideration.

It's the usual challenge to find where to leave the stream and hive up to the first spot height (293). Once on the spur there's a trail with old tape markers which I didn't expect to see - I overshoot the spot height to be sure I've passed it then drop to scramble down a stream to the track.

Where the track crosses the watershed between the Makahika and Mangaore Streams is my signal to follow a stream north and down (pretty good going - no tricky gorges).

The Mangaore is discoloured and up but not an issue. The climb onto the next spur is a bit steep though. I don't see any markers but further up there is a light trail that misses the worst of the supplejack. The odd rewarewa flower on the ground or growing like dark red coral from a black trunk give a clue to the specie of some of the trees. The rain keeps raining.

At 493 the forest looks like every other bit - it's 11am and two down for the day.

493

I blunder back down drifting off the spur a couple of times on the way, then dropping further upstream in an effort to miss the steepest bit (successful). The Mangaore is as brown as before. It keeps raining.

A short way downstream a wee cascade marks the point to start another steep scramble which eases up to 371 - near the top another taped trail crosses my path. I strike a different line down to pick up the track again and start heading out.

As I climb to 370 I'm not 100% sure I'm in the right place (a familiar feeling throughout this weekend). The top is broad, flat and generously supplied with supple jack (also to be familiar). I nominate a lump and call it 370 and take a bearing to get out. If I'm in the wrong place it will drop steadily to a stream; if I'm right I will follow a gentle ridge down into scrub.

I blunder onto another taped track - this one looks like an old logging trail - it's quick going and there are a lot of foot prints. It descends as gently as hoped.

Just as clearings start to appear the tapes head off to the left and start descending - this suits me fine as I suspect there would have been serious gorse ahead.

I lose the trail towards the bottom but the vegetation stays ungorse like. I wade across the stream and join the trail again at the camping spot at the edge of the bush. A fresh set of prints show someone has walked out since I came in - probably slightly unhinged to be out in this weather.

It's 2pm, the campervan is gone, as are the first four spot heights.

The area has better bush than I expected. There are lots of informal trails and plenty of opportunity to wander about off track. No views to speak of though.

Makaretu - tricky navigation and supplejack

With the weather forecast as rubbish as it is, the troop needs some encouraging not to stay in the car and just keep driving for home. Common sense is confined to the glove box and I turn off at Poads Road.

The park by the narrow bridge has the scattering of "bourbon 'n cola" cans associated with the sort of place you don't want to leave your car.

It's almost 2.40pm as I head for Makaretu Stream - overnight-pack sitting comfortably (and more heavily) on my back. The stream is usually no problem but it will be up today and I'm not sure if the gorgy bit will be passable. However, although it is flowing fast and discoloured, a river stick helps with the myriad crossings and there is only one cascade which has me temporarily stumped. (I find a taped route on the way out which bypasses most of the sketchy bit).

The stream route is the way I've been before but it is across private land with a sign warning off hunters (to little apparent affect). I think there must be other access points but haven't investigated. The block of land is the toe of a long ridge that runs into the depths of tiger country. Lots of informal routes but no DOC tracks. With the area regenerating from logging and farming there are flats by the Makaretu stream and clearings that attract hunters.

At 3.15pm I'm at my side stream. A short scramble up and I'm confronted by a 5m waterfall. The pool at the bottom is ale brown with a foam head to match. The true left is impassable so I find a way to clamber up a sharp spur on the true right to rejoin the stream higher up.

The stream is well worth an explore - there are terraces with an old tram route and a good track. I reluctantly leave it to follow a wee stream up to the 'plateau' (not strictly a plateau but relatively flat for the Tararuas).

Not for the last time I know I am in one of two places and little to tell which. It's mucky work following the creek and the top end is choked with rotten logs and supple jack. I work my way up to what I think is point 314 - there are no views and I can't swear I'm not at 311. There is another marked route though.

The bush up here is mixed - lots of ponga groves, some rimu and other tall emergent but mostly mixed forest species in the process of recovering from old clearance. The understory varies from ambling easily over ponga fronds to scrambling over rotten trunks or tangling through vines.

Navigation becomes a series of questions - if I'm here and go in that direction I will see the land do this and if I'm in the wrong place I will see it do that. The land keeps doing 'this' until I get to what I think is 311 by which stage it is getting dim. Meanwhile, the rain rains.

I get a bit muddled after 311 and decide to work it all out in the morning. My chosen spot for the night is on a flat area near a trickle. I find a log and pitch the fly against it, scattering some dry ponga fronds - more for effect than padding.

It rains heavily during the night - I manage to keep dry and try not to think about what may crawl out of the log and into my sleeping bag.

In the morning the rain has stopped but I can't see the sky yet so the jury is out on the weather. The plan is to head norwest to get to the edge of the plateau (and hopefully a view) then follow the edge upwards to the next spot. I drag on sopping clothes and head off about 8.20am.





Home ...

I cross a few other ribboned trails on the way and drop in and out of gullies that may or may not have been on the map. It's all very confusing but eventually my route starts climbing as expected and I figure I have got to 370 (9.30am). There's a well formed track nearby which takes me quickly to a marked clearing and finally I can confidently say I know where I am and I was always around about where I thought I was (if you follow me).

I suspect the trail I found would take you up to Panatawaewae if you were of a mind.

The clearings turn out to be old pasture slowly being eaten by the bush. Pigs evidently find them a good source of nourishment. The day has even got the odd bit of sunlight going on.

Looking back - 370 on the left.

The next spot (415) is going to be a challenge. The land forms are confused and it looks indistinguishable. I reckon I can find it if I sidle along the slope for a while then pop up to the low ridge. It's a bit tricky but this is pretty much what happens - apart from a few false starts and a bit of clambering across unexpected gullies.

There's plenty more opportunities to get involved with supplejack

From 415 there are two spots to go. They are on the way out and are on an intriguing looking ridge.

My bearing takes me towards a creek but I immediately blunder into more tape which is going in approximately the right direction so I follow it. In retrospect, when I finally lost it, I strayed right and dropped into the wrong creek. I find myself sitting at a junction of two streams working out that I am at one of two quite different spots (again).

The choice is simple - climb the hill on the right or the left? I think it is the left - it also happens to be gentler and will more quickly tell me if I'm right or wrong.

Back on the correct ridge I find more markings - possibly the track I lost earlier. In this manner I find myself pottering along a narrow top with a stream in a gully below on each side. I also cross the next spot height (295) and head for the final for the weekend (280).

It feels like the end is in sight - it's a long straight ridge and pretty good going. The trail becomes very well established with a lot of marking and all the indications of having been cleared at various times in the past.  There are at least a couple of points where you could drop norwest into the unnamed stream I came up yesterday.

As the ridge starts dropping the track heads left and I want to go right (1.20pm). There's no trail but it's a pretty straight forward scramble down to a large terrace above Makaretu Stream, and another track.

I'm back at the mouth of the unnamed stream at 1.45pm. The Makeretu is still up but running clearer.




Entrance to unnamed stream

I keep my eyes open on the way down and find some interesting tracks on terraces on the left. Including a long diversion which leads up to the edge of farmland and skips the cascade. I find a way back down to the stream and follow it back across the farmed flats. The day has continued fine but windy. It takes about the same time to get back to the car (40ish minutes) but a lot easier than the trip up stream.

Postscript 

The only thing left to report is that, aside from 10 spot heights down (and 73 to go), myriad informal tracks and trails, and heaps of polythene left by hunters - I stumbled on a hut. I'd heard tell of a ponga hut somewhere in the northern Tararuas but never thought about trying to find it.

There's a few references on the intranet but I couldn't find one with a location - so I'm not 100% sure this is the same one. I'll not make it too easy - if you want to retrace my route (bearing in mind that a chunk of it is estimated on the map) you might find it. Or if I know you I'm happy to divulge.

There's carpet on the dirt floor, plastic walls, some ponga posts and wall cladding, tin roof, potbelly with chimney, a long drop, a bench outside, even old sleeping bags on the beds ... It's rough but dry and comfortable inside.

Wasn't expecting this ....

"The Ponga Whare"

Marquee and Te Araroa

I keep finding reasons to flirt with the most scrubby corners of the Tararuas.  This trip will approach the heart of the beast, venturing into countryside that has previously left me bloody and bruised.

What:    Navigation and  spot heighting 
Where:  behind Levin somewhere
When:   7 July 2018
Who:     Solo
Map:




Large view - Levin off to the left somewhere




Close up of the interesting bits

It's a wet, grey day and, due to a late start it's well light as I pull up at the end of the public road in the hills behind Levin.  I haven't been here before - further up valley from the Poads Road end, this is where Te Araroa emerges from Mangahao Reservoir 2.

A car drives past then returns -  a chap and his missus are looking for Poads Road end to drop him off for a 7 day tramp to Upper Hutt. Good fun but missing the road end may not be the most auspicious start. I point them in the right direction before turning my back on the road.

The park boundary is somewhere up the hill above (SE) with two spot heights lurking on the spur climbing to the Camelbacks. There's no stock so at 8.10 I quietly head up the farm land, crossing a few wee streams before eventually popping over the fence into the damp bush.

About 400m there are some old markers which come and go as I climb. The going is ok although I'm not looking forward to the scrub. At one point there is a tree with a lot of pink ribbons on it - I think it might have been at about spot 632 as it looks like a spur comes up from Waiti stream.

As I break out of the bush into scrub there's a rusted saw hanging off a branch confirming that the route has been used before.

Well marked tree

An old saw

At the ridge (just below Pyramid Knob) I can't find any track leading north east - although there seems to be something heading southeast and possibly even something dropping into Johnstone Creek. This tallies with my memories from last time.

It's cold and wet pushing through the scrub, the trick is to make the most of higher canopy off the side of the ridge as much as possible. There's no avoiding the scrub for the last scramble up to Marquee though.

At the top (866) the clag is close and cold. The scrub has yet to reclaim the tops here so it's open albeit with no view today. The bush starts again pretty soon as I follow my nose and compass west then curve north. People have been through but it is a little tricky route finding to drop to 711.

The next bit could be a nightmare - the contours indicate it's pretty flat so potentially swampy and little help from the landform as to direction of travel. A well travelled and marked track puts paid to any concerns - lots of someones have been through. I think there is an outdoor school around here and suspect that they have a fairly extensive, if informal track network. (Afterwards I discover that Makahika Outdoor pursuits and Civil Defence Centre is just down the road - also that a TTC member has marked tracks in this area in the past).

Makahika has little to distinguish it (maybe a survey stake?). An internet search leaves me none the wiser about where the name comes from. Some of the possible definitions of maka and hika raise interesting possibilities.

Another well marked tree - possibly at Makahika

The informal track takes me comfortably to join Te Araroa trail which is well trod. The weather continues to be grey and drizzly and the official view spot is just a chance to get rained on more heavily. 

I head along the ridge track with the sole purpose of picking up the spot heights through to 510 before returning along the track to the road end.  The bush is nice enough and the track good but it's clear I will not be picking up all the spot heights for the day and will be getting out in the dark.

510 is on a large flat area with tall forest - it's hard to tell which way is up but easy to get about. The light is waning by the time I've bagged 510 and turn to find the track again.  The rain leans in harder.

It gets dark quickly and early under the cloud - as usual I put off using the headlight as long as possible. At the bottom of the climb down from 671 I give up as I can't find where the track leaves the stream.

From there it is a bit of an adventure - the track is broad and solid, but water levels are rising and the track is not always easy to find as it crosses and re-crosses the main stream and tributaries.

When the way breaks out of the bush there is a vehicle track and I slosh along in the rain. It's a long walk across the farmland and the only notable event is a ford where the depth and speed leaves me less than happy to attempt a crossing. The car is about 10 minutes away so it is tempting to find a stick, but I cast upstream instead and find a cable with wooden shutters hanging into the water. This provides a solid support to cross with the current trying to sweep my legs away.

It's 7 pm but has been pitch black for almost 2 hours by the time I get to the car, I'm shivering as I change in the rain and keen to get on the way and into cell phone contact. The support crew will call SAR if I haven't checked in by 10pm and I try not to run it too close.

Postscript

Mission almost accomplished. I cleaned out 10 awkwardly placed spotheights which is great, but had to leave three or four which will require another sortie into the area.

The tops around the Camelbacks are challenging but there are lots of informal trails in the area north through Makahika. Te Araroa trail would make a nice day trip albeit with transport challenges.

All-up, I was pleasantly surprised - it's nice bush with plenty of opportunities for exploring off the beaten track.

Poads Road to Waiohine

Easter is looming and a few ideas are percolating around possible routes. Otaki Gorge being closed puts a dampener on a few plans, but eventually Plan A crystallises: Thursday arvo follow Te Araroa  into the north-western Tararuas (behind Levin), travel down the Main Range to exit via Waitewaewae, Otaki Forks and Waiotauru to Akatarawa Saddle. However, a number of Plan Bs are noted on the intentions sheet left with home command ... the main one being to connect at Waiohine with Mike, Angela and Toby who are over-nighting Saturday at Totara Flats. That is provided I can call-in the change - how did we ever tramp without cell phones?

Thursday 24th

We leave for the coast about 2pm smug in the knowledge that we will be beating the usual long weekend Kapiti traffic fiasco. Wrong; nose to tail until Waikanae and over an hour later than expected.

       

Kapiti traffic - Roll on the Express Way.

Much better at Poads Road Bridge
A little gloomy though.

Ready for action

At 5pm with sunset due around 7.30, the trip up to Te Matawai is looking ever more likely to end  in a bivvy beside the track. Te Araroa heads up Waiopehu Ridge giving the opportunity to stay at the hut at the bush line, but I'm taking the Ohau Gorge Track and up Gable End Ridge - so named (I assume) because it's a little like climbing the side of a house and wandering along the roof.

It's overcast and warm, so much so that at the bottom the shirt goes into the pack. The light gets dimmer until (7.15pm) the last gasp of evening sun angles in just under the cloud bank and just over the Waiopehu Ridge. The dim bush takes on the golden highlights for a few short minutes before fading into deeper gloom.

The track is reasonably easy to follow but eventually the fading light calls for the head torch. There's no signs of life from Waiopehu Hut across the valley as I come up and over Richard's Knob and join Te Araroa. The lights of Levin and possibly Palmerston North are briefly visible through the cloud.

It's quite a different proposition in the pitch black but I manage not to lose the track or fall off the edge. As it drops towards Butcher Saddle I'm concentrating on keeping upright on the slippery roots and only gradually notice the white noise of the river filtering up from the valley below. A couple of Morepork are exchanging calls from close by but not a chance of seeming them, otherwise it's a still and humid evening.

In the saddle the cloud filters through the trees scattering the headlight but finally there's a sign advising that left will take you to South Ohau Hut via Yeates Track or half an hour upwards to Te Matawai - and that's pretty much how long it takes, arriving a little before 10pm.

Judging by the log book, Te Matawai gets pretty good use and I'm lucky to have it to myself. The log is full of references to 'NOBO' and 'SOBO' - finally it clicks - it distinguishes between the NOrth BOund and SOuth BOund Te Araroa travellers.

Flashes and grumbles from a distant thunderstorm fail to materialise into anything more than some heavy drops on the roof and a bit of wind during a restful night.

Friday 25th

It looks pretty foul on the tops as I head away from the hut bright and early (well, 8.45). Pukematawai and the range to the north are invisible, but my route south down the main range intermittently peeks through. The view behind (norwest) however remains bright, with Te Matawai Hut gleaming in the sun staying visible most of the way up the ridge.  Beyond, Waiopehu Hut is just discernible if you know where to look.

Looking Back - Te Matawai Hut is the bright spec mid-left.     The near ridge runs down to Girdlestone Saddle, Gable End Ridge behind it and Waiopehu somewhere on the horizon

Looking up towards Pukematawai (obscured)

A little over an hour after leaving the hut, Pukematawai is inside a cloud with a decidedly cool and boisterous wind whipping over the ridge and trying to nick my cap. The sign at the top looms out of the clag with the cheerful advice that Dracophylum and Nichol Huts are a mere 3 to 7 hours away ... unspoken is the amount of exposed ridge between here and there.

Top of Pukematawai 200m away 

However the ridge drops away from Pukematawai and soon there is a reasonable view ahead with the Park River head waters below to the left and Te Matawai yet again visible in the distance - to the north now. I'm even thinking I might need to crack out the sunscreen. However, for the rest of the day there's more wind and clag and very little view to the east.

A more encouraging view south above Park Valley. 

The track is good going and easy to follow although the cloud soon closes in again. Across the valley a helicopter is operating - possibly on Carkeek Ridge - hopefully hunters and not a rescue.

I had been thinking of stopping for lunch at Dracophylum Hut, which is a small cheerful looking two berther, but it's only 11.30 so elect to head on for Nichols.

One for the hut baggers.

Coming over Nichols it's getting more seriously unpleasant and I'm conscious that there's a good few kilometers of exposed tops ahead including the highest point of my trip at Mt Crawford. I'm looking forward to a bit of shelter and a chance to fill up and rug up at the hut, which proves to be in good nick.

Around 2pm, cheese, salami and pita bread feed the inner man and raincoat and other pieces of kit are relocated from pack to person. The forecast is for the weather to clear. I'm quite comfortable in the conditions as they stand, and have extra layers should it deteriorate, so am happy to leave the hut and head on.

Leaving a perfectly good hut - Nichols.

With little view there's little point hanging around the tops so I count off the spot heights to and past Mt Crawford. I also grumble at myself for bringing glasses instead of contact lenses - the east-most lens misting over rapidly after each abortive wipe. Things are going well and I'm feeling pretty good so fish out the cell phone and text my intentions to switch to Plan B and the Waiohine Road end. A confirmatory response means a short stint further along the ridge to Anderson's rather than the long plunge to Waitewaewae.

There's two sets of fresh foot prints on the track so I'm half expecting company when I arrive at Anderson's Memorial Hut at 4.30. However, the log book indicates that the owners of the feet are heading on to Aokaparangi Hut. Being a two bunker I figure I might be a little less than welcome if I follow them, so call it quits for the day, hoping for another night with a hut to myself.

Anderson's Memorial Hut.

I was taken with this hut the first time I passed through with its situation on the edge of an alpine terrace enfolded on three sides by the bush. It's pleasing to see it in good nick and with an intact log book including my entry from three years ago.  There's also one SOBO entry from a poor soul who missed the Te Araroa turn off at Junction knob and has a little back tracking to do.

I don't need the fire as I'm looking forward to an early dinner, bed and undisturbed sleep.

Saturday 26th

The clag is still drifting past the windows in the morning but it could be a bit thinner above, so I'm hopeful of some better weather today. The clothes are not noticeably drier than yesterday afternoon, but it's not cold enough to be unpleasant. 

Departure time

The track dives straight into mossy beech forest to dip and then climb. 35 minutes after leaving I'm looking back from the flanks of Kahiwiroa at a bank of cloud with Mt Crawford above in the distance.

Mount Crawford and the range disappearing to the North

An hour 45 after leaving (and having shed some kit) I'm enjoying changing cloudscapes from Aokaparangi. A lot of the ridge travel may be in clag but the wind is light and the breaks provide some beautifully typical Tararua views.

North from Aokaparangi

I'm still following the footprints from the party that came through yesterday afternoon with some occasional fresh deer prints. After the turn off to the hut, the prints re-appear fresh so they have clearly regained the trail after a nights rest.

The way forward and South - a little gloomy

Forty five minutes later - much better!

My recollection of the next section is of several steep clambers and losing track of the number of spot heights. I do a little better this time but it is quite lumpy and I'm still expecting one more when I realise I'm ascending Maungahuka. The clag drops away behind and more of the main range is visible north and south. The wind has also dropped to a most uncharacteristic calm.

North from the shoulder of Maungahuka ...

... looking up to the hut ...

... and southwest to the Tararua Peaks ...
I swear I could see the ladder when I took the photo but can't spot it now.

Just before 12 I stop in at the hut to find that the footprinters have left 45 minutes ago after noting in the log book their nervousness about tackling the ladder.

At the top of Maungahuka I see two figures angling up a steep face beyond the peaks and can hear their voices in the still air.  They have clearly overcome any nervousness about the clamber but are too far away to be able to exchange information.

The peaks scarcely register with climbers but they are a little daunting to trampers for the first time. I was a bit hesitant about tackling them on my own so follow their progress with proprietorial interest, imagining how they'll be feeling and expecting that their enjoyment will be all the sharper for the passing nerves.

Decisions

Although it's tempting to carry on along the range, about 1230 I turn my back to follow my ridge down into cloud and a thousand metre knee-curdling descent.  The sun is hot for a brief period but thins as the mists thicken long before the bushline (1100m).

Down into the gloom

There's not much to say about the rest of the descent - the 100m rise over Concertina knob prolongs the agony but is a good excuse to stop for lunch. I also pass through the territory of a couple of fantails who flick by to see what's up and three rifleman who just go about their business barely giving a glance to my pathetic attempts to imitate their high-pitched sounds.

Eventually there are glimpses of bush rather than cloud across the valley and river noise from below. After the final scramble down, the trees open to show the crystal clear Hector River flowing over clean grey boulders. Also the gleaming white form of a naked man gingerly easing himself into the frigid water. I pause briefly until he's fully committed then trot out onto the swing bridge calling a cheerful greeting and condolences about the cold (hmm, that could be misinterpreted).  I'm probably the first person down the tracks in days so his luck is not in. Kudos to him though for a full immersion in a cold river on a cloudy day.

Naked man just out of shot to the left

It's 2.20 and Neill Forks Hut is just across the bridge. It's also full with a party from the Hutt Tramping Club including Naked Man. There's a couple of semi-pointed remarks about my intentions and the number of bunks, so I accept a cup of tea and indicate that I will be heading on.

Half an hour later I'm on the way up Cone Ridge for the second time in as many weeks, but from a different direction.  The knees quite rightly grumble about a 600m climb after the mistreatment down from Maungahuka. However, an hour later the ridge provides for more relaxing travel south in recently familiar territory.

Phew.

It's a little before 5 when I reach the tops at Cone. The cloud keeps coming and going and it is a little different to a couple of weeks back ...

Cone

Then and now ...

I figure I can make the road end before it's too dark, and there's cell coverage, but Brother Number 1 is away from home so can't do a pick up, and I don't relish camping at the road end. Cone Hut it is then.

It's a pretty quick trip down the ridge to the saddle stopping briefly for (another) fruitless attempt to capture the magic of sunlight through goblin forest.

As good as I think I'll ever get on my phone

There's another pause when I run into the tail end of a party of seven. It's 5.30 and he's going pretty slow, so too is his wife five minutes further on, and two young woman another five minutes later. At 6pm at the Saddle the other three are not particularly concerned about the progress of the rest of the party and elect to follow me down to the hut - I'm figuring the rest will be hobbling in well after dark.

At 6.30 I'm first at the hut and get dibs on the sleeping platform. A solo chap soon turns up from Kaitoke having eschewed the crowded Tutuwai, despite which he's keen for a chat and a chain smoke.

A little later the two women from the saddle turn up having left the third chap behind. The mystery of the mixed party is resolved - four of them are from Marsden College doing a Duke of Ed. trip accompanied by the required adult supervision that they arranged via face book. The son of said adults makes up the party. The parents and the other two students eventually turn up just before 9pm - much to my relief as, very selfishly, I wasn't keen on being on a search party.

They are having a fairly eventful time - the trip from Totara Flats Hut via Cone Ridge has taken almost 10 hours; one of them has impressively bruised her ankle (and is pretty upbeat about it), and the father is going through all sorts of agony due to various health conditions including the aftermath of a broken back.

After a few days of my own company it's pretty full-on, but the students are quite competent with what they are setting about and considerate.

The sleeping arrangements resolve into six in the hut, parents under a fly (by preference), and the solo chap on the table outside. I thought this was a little mad but it didn't rain and he was adamant he didn't require floor space in the hut.

Sunday 27th

There's is absolutely no hurry for me in the morning so I let the mayhem clear a little before I exit pit and arrange breakfast. Solo chap is tossing up exiting via Marchant or Dobson Loop and the other party is aiming to exit over Mt Reeves. The lass with the injured ankle is strapped up and the father decants gear to his family to lighten his massive load. The Duke of Ed team are packed first and have remarkably economical packs. Eventually the last of them head off and the hut is suddenly quiet in the morning sun.

Built in 1946 Cone hut has survived some recent vandalism but shows signs of continuing graffiti assaults by the mindless. A rather nice slab woodshed has been built with a small water butt from the roof and the uneven dirt floor has been covered with tidy plywood. I remember being very relieved to reach this hut on a previous occasion and hope it serves for many more years.

The sun streams through the trees for the trip over to Walls Whare which is becoming quite familiar. I meet a man and woman with rifle and dog on the way up but no-one else until the swing bridge. About an hour and a half after leaving the hut I'm hunting out Mike and Angela's car on a hot sunny day. They turn up a couple of hours later with Toby having enjoyed camping out on Totara Flats. In the meantime I've had a wash, dried my gear and brewed my last coffee sachet.

Coda

I was happy with how all my kit performed and it was great to finally negotiate the territory from Pukematawai to Junction Knob. The route was interesting and varied, with the capacity to be significantly challenging in bad weather. I reckon it would be doable in two days by the fit, but two and a half to three allows a little more time to enjoy the views, take a few pics and not have to leap out of bed early.

All up, a mighty fine long weekend.

Gear notes

Mostly used standard kit. The penny stove performed fine inside and in the open at the Waiohine carpark. Still wouldn't want to rely on it for trips not involving huts. Macpac bivvy tent was carried but still remains to be rigorously tested. Zamberlan boots continue to impress with their comfort, lightness and (so far) durability.