Poads Road to Waiohine

Easter is looming and a few ideas are percolating around possible routes. Otaki Gorge being closed puts a dampener on a few plans, but eventually Plan A crystallises: Thursday arvo follow Te Araroa  into the north-western Tararuas (behind Levin), travel down the Main Range to exit via Waitewaewae, Otaki Forks and Waiotauru to Akatarawa Saddle. However, a number of Plan Bs are noted on the intentions sheet left with home command ... the main one being to connect at Waiohine with Mike, Angela and Toby who are over-nighting Saturday at Totara Flats. That is provided I can call-in the change - how did we ever tramp without cell phones?

Thursday 24th

We leave for the coast about 2pm smug in the knowledge that we will be beating the usual long weekend Kapiti traffic fiasco. Wrong; nose to tail until Waikanae and over an hour later than expected.

       

Kapiti traffic - Roll on the Express Way.

Much better at Poads Road Bridge
A little gloomy though.

Ready for action

At 5pm with sunset due around 7.30, the trip up to Te Matawai is looking ever more likely to end  in a bivvy beside the track. Te Araroa heads up Waiopehu Ridge giving the opportunity to stay at the hut at the bush line, but I'm taking the Ohau Gorge Track and up Gable End Ridge - so named (I assume) because it's a little like climbing the side of a house and wandering along the roof.

It's overcast and warm, so much so that at the bottom the shirt goes into the pack. The light gets dimmer until (7.15pm) the last gasp of evening sun angles in just under the cloud bank and just over the Waiopehu Ridge. The dim bush takes on the golden highlights for a few short minutes before fading into deeper gloom.

The track is reasonably easy to follow but eventually the fading light calls for the head torch. There's no signs of life from Waiopehu Hut across the valley as I come up and over Richard's Knob and join Te Araroa. The lights of Levin and possibly Palmerston North are briefly visible through the cloud.

It's quite a different proposition in the pitch black but I manage not to lose the track or fall off the edge. As it drops towards Butcher Saddle I'm concentrating on keeping upright on the slippery roots and only gradually notice the white noise of the river filtering up from the valley below. A couple of Morepork are exchanging calls from close by but not a chance of seeming them, otherwise it's a still and humid evening.

In the saddle the cloud filters through the trees scattering the headlight but finally there's a sign advising that left will take you to South Ohau Hut via Yeates Track or half an hour upwards to Te Matawai - and that's pretty much how long it takes, arriving a little before 10pm.

Judging by the log book, Te Matawai gets pretty good use and I'm lucky to have it to myself. The log is full of references to 'NOBO' and 'SOBO' - finally it clicks - it distinguishes between the NOrth BOund and SOuth BOund Te Araroa travellers.

Flashes and grumbles from a distant thunderstorm fail to materialise into anything more than some heavy drops on the roof and a bit of wind during a restful night.

Friday 25th

It looks pretty foul on the tops as I head away from the hut bright and early (well, 8.45). Pukematawai and the range to the north are invisible, but my route south down the main range intermittently peeks through. The view behind (norwest) however remains bright, with Te Matawai Hut gleaming in the sun staying visible most of the way up the ridge.  Beyond, Waiopehu Hut is just discernible if you know where to look.

Looking Back - Te Matawai Hut is the bright spec mid-left.     The near ridge runs down to Girdlestone Saddle, Gable End Ridge behind it and Waiopehu somewhere on the horizon

Looking up towards Pukematawai (obscured)

A little over an hour after leaving the hut, Pukematawai is inside a cloud with a decidedly cool and boisterous wind whipping over the ridge and trying to nick my cap. The sign at the top looms out of the clag with the cheerful advice that Dracophylum and Nichol Huts are a mere 3 to 7 hours away ... unspoken is the amount of exposed ridge between here and there.

Top of Pukematawai 200m away 

However the ridge drops away from Pukematawai and soon there is a reasonable view ahead with the Park River head waters below to the left and Te Matawai yet again visible in the distance - to the north now. I'm even thinking I might need to crack out the sunscreen. However, for the rest of the day there's more wind and clag and very little view to the east.

A more encouraging view south above Park Valley. 

The track is good going and easy to follow although the cloud soon closes in again. Across the valley a helicopter is operating - possibly on Carkeek Ridge - hopefully hunters and not a rescue.

I had been thinking of stopping for lunch at Dracophylum Hut, which is a small cheerful looking two berther, but it's only 11.30 so elect to head on for Nichols.

One for the hut baggers.

Coming over Nichols it's getting more seriously unpleasant and I'm conscious that there's a good few kilometers of exposed tops ahead including the highest point of my trip at Mt Crawford. I'm looking forward to a bit of shelter and a chance to fill up and rug up at the hut, which proves to be in good nick.

Around 2pm, cheese, salami and pita bread feed the inner man and raincoat and other pieces of kit are relocated from pack to person. The forecast is for the weather to clear. I'm quite comfortable in the conditions as they stand, and have extra layers should it deteriorate, so am happy to leave the hut and head on.

Leaving a perfectly good hut - Nichols.

With little view there's little point hanging around the tops so I count off the spot heights to and past Mt Crawford. I also grumble at myself for bringing glasses instead of contact lenses - the east-most lens misting over rapidly after each abortive wipe. Things are going well and I'm feeling pretty good so fish out the cell phone and text my intentions to switch to Plan B and the Waiohine Road end. A confirmatory response means a short stint further along the ridge to Anderson's rather than the long plunge to Waitewaewae.

There's two sets of fresh foot prints on the track so I'm half expecting company when I arrive at Anderson's Memorial Hut at 4.30. However, the log book indicates that the owners of the feet are heading on to Aokaparangi Hut. Being a two bunker I figure I might be a little less than welcome if I follow them, so call it quits for the day, hoping for another night with a hut to myself.

Anderson's Memorial Hut.

I was taken with this hut the first time I passed through with its situation on the edge of an alpine terrace enfolded on three sides by the bush. It's pleasing to see it in good nick and with an intact log book including my entry from three years ago.  There's also one SOBO entry from a poor soul who missed the Te Araroa turn off at Junction knob and has a little back tracking to do.

I don't need the fire as I'm looking forward to an early dinner, bed and undisturbed sleep.

Saturday 26th

The clag is still drifting past the windows in the morning but it could be a bit thinner above, so I'm hopeful of some better weather today. The clothes are not noticeably drier than yesterday afternoon, but it's not cold enough to be unpleasant. 

Departure time

The track dives straight into mossy beech forest to dip and then climb. 35 minutes after leaving I'm looking back from the flanks of Kahiwiroa at a bank of cloud with Mt Crawford above in the distance.

Mount Crawford and the range disappearing to the North

An hour 45 after leaving (and having shed some kit) I'm enjoying changing cloudscapes from Aokaparangi. A lot of the ridge travel may be in clag but the wind is light and the breaks provide some beautifully typical Tararua views.

North from Aokaparangi

I'm still following the footprints from the party that came through yesterday afternoon with some occasional fresh deer prints. After the turn off to the hut, the prints re-appear fresh so they have clearly regained the trail after a nights rest.

The way forward and South - a little gloomy

Forty five minutes later - much better!

My recollection of the next section is of several steep clambers and losing track of the number of spot heights. I do a little better this time but it is quite lumpy and I'm still expecting one more when I realise I'm ascending Maungahuka. The clag drops away behind and more of the main range is visible north and south. The wind has also dropped to a most uncharacteristic calm.

North from the shoulder of Maungahuka ...

... looking up to the hut ...

... and southwest to the Tararua Peaks ...
I swear I could see the ladder when I took the photo but can't spot it now.

Just before 12 I stop in at the hut to find that the footprinters have left 45 minutes ago after noting in the log book their nervousness about tackling the ladder.

At the top of Maungahuka I see two figures angling up a steep face beyond the peaks and can hear their voices in the still air.  They have clearly overcome any nervousness about the clamber but are too far away to be able to exchange information.

The peaks scarcely register with climbers but they are a little daunting to trampers for the first time. I was a bit hesitant about tackling them on my own so follow their progress with proprietorial interest, imagining how they'll be feeling and expecting that their enjoyment will be all the sharper for the passing nerves.

Decisions

Although it's tempting to carry on along the range, about 1230 I turn my back to follow my ridge down into cloud and a thousand metre knee-curdling descent.  The sun is hot for a brief period but thins as the mists thicken long before the bushline (1100m).

Down into the gloom

There's not much to say about the rest of the descent - the 100m rise over Concertina knob prolongs the agony but is a good excuse to stop for lunch. I also pass through the territory of a couple of fantails who flick by to see what's up and three rifleman who just go about their business barely giving a glance to my pathetic attempts to imitate their high-pitched sounds.

Eventually there are glimpses of bush rather than cloud across the valley and river noise from below. After the final scramble down, the trees open to show the crystal clear Hector River flowing over clean grey boulders. Also the gleaming white form of a naked man gingerly easing himself into the frigid water. I pause briefly until he's fully committed then trot out onto the swing bridge calling a cheerful greeting and condolences about the cold (hmm, that could be misinterpreted).  I'm probably the first person down the tracks in days so his luck is not in. Kudos to him though for a full immersion in a cold river on a cloudy day.

Naked man just out of shot to the left

It's 2.20 and Neill Forks Hut is just across the bridge. It's also full with a party from the Hutt Tramping Club including Naked Man. There's a couple of semi-pointed remarks about my intentions and the number of bunks, so I accept a cup of tea and indicate that I will be heading on.

Half an hour later I'm on the way up Cone Ridge for the second time in as many weeks, but from a different direction.  The knees quite rightly grumble about a 600m climb after the mistreatment down from Maungahuka. However, an hour later the ridge provides for more relaxing travel south in recently familiar territory.

Phew.

It's a little before 5 when I reach the tops at Cone. The cloud keeps coming and going and it is a little different to a couple of weeks back ...

Cone

Then and now ...

I figure I can make the road end before it's too dark, and there's cell coverage, but Brother Number 1 is away from home so can't do a pick up, and I don't relish camping at the road end. Cone Hut it is then.

It's a pretty quick trip down the ridge to the saddle stopping briefly for (another) fruitless attempt to capture the magic of sunlight through goblin forest.

As good as I think I'll ever get on my phone

There's another pause when I run into the tail end of a party of seven. It's 5.30 and he's going pretty slow, so too is his wife five minutes further on, and two young woman another five minutes later. At 6pm at the Saddle the other three are not particularly concerned about the progress of the rest of the party and elect to follow me down to the hut - I'm figuring the rest will be hobbling in well after dark.

At 6.30 I'm first at the hut and get dibs on the sleeping platform. A solo chap soon turns up from Kaitoke having eschewed the crowded Tutuwai, despite which he's keen for a chat and a chain smoke.

A little later the two women from the saddle turn up having left the third chap behind. The mystery of the mixed party is resolved - four of them are from Marsden College doing a Duke of Ed. trip accompanied by the required adult supervision that they arranged via face book. The son of said adults makes up the party. The parents and the other two students eventually turn up just before 9pm - much to my relief as, very selfishly, I wasn't keen on being on a search party.

They are having a fairly eventful time - the trip from Totara Flats Hut via Cone Ridge has taken almost 10 hours; one of them has impressively bruised her ankle (and is pretty upbeat about it), and the father is going through all sorts of agony due to various health conditions including the aftermath of a broken back.

After a few days of my own company it's pretty full-on, but the students are quite competent with what they are setting about and considerate.

The sleeping arrangements resolve into six in the hut, parents under a fly (by preference), and the solo chap on the table outside. I thought this was a little mad but it didn't rain and he was adamant he didn't require floor space in the hut.

Sunday 27th

There's is absolutely no hurry for me in the morning so I let the mayhem clear a little before I exit pit and arrange breakfast. Solo chap is tossing up exiting via Marchant or Dobson Loop and the other party is aiming to exit over Mt Reeves. The lass with the injured ankle is strapped up and the father decants gear to his family to lighten his massive load. The Duke of Ed team are packed first and have remarkably economical packs. Eventually the last of them head off and the hut is suddenly quiet in the morning sun.

Built in 1946 Cone hut has survived some recent vandalism but shows signs of continuing graffiti assaults by the mindless. A rather nice slab woodshed has been built with a small water butt from the roof and the uneven dirt floor has been covered with tidy plywood. I remember being very relieved to reach this hut on a previous occasion and hope it serves for many more years.

The sun streams through the trees for the trip over to Walls Whare which is becoming quite familiar. I meet a man and woman with rifle and dog on the way up but no-one else until the swing bridge. About an hour and a half after leaving the hut I'm hunting out Mike and Angela's car on a hot sunny day. They turn up a couple of hours later with Toby having enjoyed camping out on Totara Flats. In the meantime I've had a wash, dried my gear and brewed my last coffee sachet.

Coda

I was happy with how all my kit performed and it was great to finally negotiate the territory from Pukematawai to Junction Knob. The route was interesting and varied, with the capacity to be significantly challenging in bad weather. I reckon it would be doable in two days by the fit, but two and a half to three allows a little more time to enjoy the views, take a few pics and not have to leap out of bed early.

All up, a mighty fine long weekend.

Gear notes

Mostly used standard kit. The penny stove performed fine inside and in the open at the Waiohine carpark. Still wouldn't want to rely on it for trips not involving huts. Macpac bivvy tent was carried but still remains to be rigorously tested. Zamberlan boots continue to impress with their comfort, lightness and (so far) durability.

Lost on Mount Cone

When brother number one inquires about being a volunteer victim for a Search and Rescue exercise he's going to be on, it sounds like a great excuse to get out in the hills for a good cause. Josh needs no convincing, so we provide our details to Tony the organiser (Police) and receive our instructions.

It's been a good wee while since I've been tramping rather than biking, but boots and other essential kit are soon turfed out of forgotten corners.

The scenario: a party of six Forest and Birders on a Kaka counting trip get split up on their way from Cone Saddle to Totara Flats Hut via Cone Ridge with some suffering various mishaps. The volunteers are to start with a Friday evening briefing and walk into Cone Saddle, for an early start up to Cone Ridge in the morning.

We arrive at the Masterton Police station at 6pm for an exercise and radio briefing and are issued with ration packs, radios, PLBs, spare batteries, GPSs, and snacks. My small, light pack is bulging and some kilos heavier by the time we head off for the SAR base and, after a bit of farfing, we are finally in the van to Walls Whare. The fading light draws a veil over some unpleasant looking clouds, but the forecast only suggests a few light showers and fading wind.

The evening start is necessary as some of the SAR teams are helping with the Tararua Mountain Race (Holdsworth to Kaitoke) that is coming through the area in the morning. The teams will join the exercise as they are freed up from the race and Tony is keen that our paths don't cross.

At Waiohine Shelter two buses are blocking the road.  These turn out to be dropping off 90 odd trampers from Victoria Uni who are heading into Totara Flats in the morning - woe betide anyone that wants to sleep there this weekend. We determine that they won't be getting in the way of the race, and should be outside the search area, which is a relief.

Tony drops us off in pitch black, to head across the swing bridge and turn left. It's a nice cruise up the hill under lights, with occasional spits of rain.  We pretty quickly find out that Claire (SAR volunteer from DoC and mountain runner) is the greyhound in the group. At Cone Saddle we completely fail to find the bench and water source that Tony had given directions to, but there's plenty of space to set tents on the track and we turn in after 12. Also after a bottle of port that Iain (ex Police and well versed on matters SAR) has kindly carted up the hill. It's quiet apart from Moreporks exchanging calls through the night.

In the morning we're up in the dark and off up the ridge track by 6.45am to avoid being spotted.  We leave Jordan (young butcher and keen hunter) behind to head up Clem Creek to break his leg. He is to play the part of the last party member to leave the Saddle, who heads off to find a short cut instead of up the ridge track. Next, we drop Paul a few hundred meters before spot height 812 to get stung by a wasp and start wandering, with anaphylactic shock, down an old track (block 19?).  He is to be unresponsive so it will be interesting to see how they find him. If treated, or able to write, he will tell rescuers that he was the fifth to leave up the Ridge Track.

I'm loving the climb through the familiar bush in the cool morning, heading up into the beech forest with moss underfoot and the profusion of plants that cram around the track whenever it breaks out of the forest. There's no pressure and the four of us chat our way up to Cone where we leave Iain to wander up the Neill Ridge track a short way. He will be the grumpy team leader who left first in the morning, took a wrong turn, and returned to see Josh and I in the distance heading North along Cone Ridge shouting for help. He will be feigning severe cramps and will make the phone call that will kick the event off. He shows every indication of relishing the opportunity to be a royal pain for the search party.

It's cloudy on the tops and nippy, so the remaining three keep moving, pausing briefly to mark a perfect camp spot just inside the bushline and the location of flowing water from the tarns at the north end of the clearing. We're in no hurry as the search teams will not be deploying for hours.  The clearing is home for the usual mix of tussocks, shrubs and herbs with perfect wee white flowers underfoot.



Cone Ridge from Cone
(On Sunday)

Tony has identified a flat area on the ridge, 400m or so before Neill Forks turn off, where people often get lost.  Josh will be having an asthma attack and we will wander east off the track. When asked we will recall leaving Cone Saddle after Claire and we haven't seen anyone since then.  Claire meantime heads further along the track to spot height 957 to be (hopefully) found waiting on the track. She will recall leaving the saddle after Iain and report that no-one has come past her.

Josh and I have a bit of fun trying to find our spot as the GPS is a bit confused under the canopy but eventually (after thrashing around in leather wood and swamp) we find a suitable location in some gnarly, mossy goblin forest, radio in our co-ordinates, and settle in for the wait. It's chilly and damp so we set up a fly and (eventually) a small fire.  The need for these is short lived as the weather soon clears into a beautiful and unusually still Tararua day, giving us a tiny slice of vista of the Tararua Peaks and Maungahuka between the mossy trunks.

Home for the afternoon
East side of Cone Ridge

The radio keeps us entertained. The missing persons' radios link to Tony at HQ, and are scrambled so we can switch and follow the SAR base coms as events unfold.

The event kicks off around 11 with Iain's phone call.  Team 4 is dispatched by helicopter to Mt Cone to locate and extract the requisite information from him.  They are a bit under utilised during the day but are eventually tasked with checking and confirming that no-one else has been up the Neill Ridge Track. Team 2 (with dog) is quickly dispatched from Totara Flats Hut up the Cone Ridge Track.  It looks like it's all on, but it turns out that team 2 are slow to come up the Ridge, and team 4 are not tasked to come along our way, so we have a lot longer to wait.

Meantime, team 1 (with dog) heads up the Ridge Track from Cone Saddle, and the dog detects where Paul left the track.  They miss him at first but ironically find a wasps' nest.  Incident Control re-task them to head up to Mt Cone but have a change of heart (we suspect after a strong hint) and allow the dog to have another go.  They finally find Paul at 1620 and he's free to head out and home.  We spare a thought for team 3 which has been dispatched up the old track and thrash their way up the spur to no real purpose.

We listen as team 5 who has been choppered into Totara Flats (apparently by mistake) make rapid tracks down to Makaka Creek at the foot of the Cone Saddle Track. When they reach the spot we groan in sympathy as they are dispatched on a fruitless mission up Makaka Creek but Tony eventually takes pity and they are brought back to the main track.

Josh and I guess that Control will eventually dispatch team 4 in our direction; which they do, but despite a hurry up from base, team 2 is still nowhere in the offing (much to Claire's consternation who is running out of water). We pack up camp and, after a brief conflab with Tony, relocate closer to the track in the hope of a quicker find, and maybe even a chance to get out tonight.

At 1800 the final events of the day unfold in rapid succession. Team 2 finally reach Claire to ascertain that no-one has passed her, and a few minutes later we respond promptly to team 4's sound line. They appear out of the bush exchanging good nature banter and settle into their roles (interviewing the victim, radioing base, and standing around giving cheek to the others: 'How the hell did you get through school without being thumped!?' - 'Dunno - but have you ever seen a nose this straight on someone this cheeky?'). They treat Josh's imaginary 9 hour long asthma attack with an imaginary inhaler and we leave them to head back to Mt Cone, a km or so ahead of Claire.



Team 4 waiting extraction on Sunday

The SAR team's are instructed to camp and stand by for a night exercise, whilst we are left to our own devices, apart from the still unlocated Jordan who has been incommunicado apart from occasional texts with Tony.

The sun is setting behind Mt Hector as we reach Mt Cone and Iain, who has elected to stay there for the night.  Claire arrives shortly after and we decide to camp, finding a perfect spot just inside the bush line.  It's a clear evening but decidedly nippy so after setting camp and dinner we pop out to look at Wairarapa lights then quickly turn in.  The wind comes up in the night but we are well tucked in and, apart from Josh resetting his fly, we have a good sleep. It's about time to switch to the winter weight sleeping bag though.

Josh near the top of Cone
Neill Ridge in the background

Tararua Peaks and Maungahuka from Cone

We wake up with the light in no particular hurry and head off down the ridge listening on the radio as the SAR teams set about their tasks.

Mt Cone campsite
My Macpac biv in the foreground - Josh has broken his fly down already

Team 3 quickly locates Jordan, who is undoubtedly quite keen to be found.  They administer first aid, make a pack stretcher, and carry him five minutes before being released.  Team 1 are ahead of us heading down the ridge while teams 2 and 4 are sent to Mt Cone for helicopter extraction.  We are half way down the Ridge Track when we are offered a trip out - if we climb 300m back to the top.  We elect to walk out and save SAR a few dollars.

Just enough money in the budget to save a few legs

It all wraps up quickly and neatly.  We catch team 1 with dog (who is having the absolute best time) on the way down to Walls Whare, teams 2 and 4 are lifted off Cone, arriving about the same time as us, and teams 3 and 5 are lifted out from Makaka Creek intersection shortly after.  This gets everyone back to the SAR base for an excellent BBQ and debrief around midday.

We exchange experiences with the team members and Iain continues to put the hard word on Josh and I to sign up as volunteers.  The debrief is direct and robust, pulling out all the issues we had noted and more, and giving an insight into the decision making in Incident Control. We also get an explanation for Jordan's radio silence - the channel had switched to the wrong DOC channel when he had changed batteries. Hmm, I might have detected a little bit of embarrassment on Tony's part for not working this out!  Bro number one confirms that Team 2's slow progress was due to diligent searching and not entirely to the amount of fresh deer scent the dog had to contend with.

All up, it was a great weekend in the bush. The tramping was low key but the weather was superb. Following the exercise by radio and attending the debrief was fascinating and informative. It was a great bunch of people involved; the volunteers were good to work with and we felt welcomed and appreciated by Police and SAR. It was also a good opportunity to support a service that trampers rely on being available when they need it.

Gear notes
The only new kit I was trialing was my Macpac bivvy tent (900g packed) which proved perfect for the conditions but didn't really get tested. The hoop over your head keeps the single skin sil-nylon off your face and condensation wasn't a problem either night. I don't look forward to using it in the rain; you can stash some kit by your head but there isn't really room for the pack and getting changed inside it is difficult. Far superior to a bivvy bag in my limited experience though. Once again the Exped air mattress proved its worth - it's so much better than my old Thermorest. The Penny Stove was fine outside in very little wind.

Josh had a number of bits of interesting kit.  He had a new lightweight pack (Cuban fibre?) with only what you need, minimal frills and good space, water proof and seemed comfy enough.  His MSR tent fly was beautifully crafted, a great size for one, or more at a pinch, and providing multiple pitching options.