Queen Charlotte by MTB

About five years ago Mike had a significant birthday and we gave him a voucher for a MTB trip through the Heaphy track.  This was proving logistically a bit tricky so we eventually settled on a date (Waitangi weekend) to do the Queen Charlotte track instead, giving the advantage of summer riding and the ability to stay with the support crew in comfortable accommodation.

The track is open for 43 Km from Camp Bay (Kenepuru Saddle) to Anakiwa during summer so it's not the whole experience but still a good day or weekend jaunt.  I'd done the route from Anakiwa to the road above Camp Bay (Kenepuru Saddle) once before in different circumstances (link).

Click here to see the route in Google maps.

The support crew is augmented by Angela and her mum (who were kicking off a grand tour of the South) and Toby.  Just Mike and I biking; Josh was also a starter but unfortunately had to pull out just before kick off.  He was however incredibly sporting, allowing the use of his Forester, the perfect vehicle for frightening oncoming traffic on narrow roads and hauling dirty bikes and bikers (I've found that someone else's car is generally preferred for this sought of activity).

We rock up for the Friday evening Bluebridge sailing which is virtually deserted.  The company's legendary easy going attitude is tested when Mike misses boarding in the car because he's at McDonalds. But he hitches a lift with some bemused tourists and everyone is soon settling into the quiet room, the movie room, the cafe, or the cabin that Angela had the foresight to book.

After a smooth crossing and a night at the perfectly adequate Picton Yacht Club the bikers potter off down to the Cougar Line office to shell out $60 each for one way transfers plus $18 for a multi-day pass (2 to five days) for the track from the office next door.  There's at least two other companies providing pick-up/drop-off options and luggage transfers. This all leaves ample time for breakfast at Le Cafe before a 10am departure.

Before - clean, uninjured and full of anticipation

Just one of the support crew rustles up enough enthusiasm to wave the boys good-bye, the others loiter about the motel and Picton's Cafes before a leisurely drive to Portage via the Slip Inn in Havelock.

Right - let's see why it's called Cougar Line

Steaming out
The keen eyed may detect the boys on the back deck to the left

The boat is a twin hull of a good size and 10 or 15 bikes are loaded on, various parcels and more than 20 people.  It turns out to be a shuttle rather than a taxi; we roar across the water but stop to make about 10 drop off and pick ups around the Sounds (including Ships Cove which looks like a gorgeous spot). It's quite interesting to pull in at the various jetties and see slices of peoples holidays, from families snorkeling near their wee cribs, to lunching ladies landing at large lodges.  We are also impressed to see the amount of work on wilding pines with ridge-sides of dead trees making way for regenerating bush - but plenty more to do.

Eventually (almost 2 hours later) all the bikers are dropped off at Camp Bay (Punga Cove).  There's a cafe by the wharf whose patrons look on with mild interest as bikers organise themselves in all directions.  The instructions are pretty clear - head right off the wharf and follow the wee track around to the DoC campsite (toilets, cooking shelter, water, tent sites).  Being midday we stop in for lunch and a lass appears out of a nearby tent - she is staying for 2 weeks as a volunteer campsite "host" - obviously a fairly busy spot and I imagine her presence ensures a few more people pay than would otherwise.

Lots of sympathy for a hot biker

A quad track dives up the hill behind the camp - steep but rideable for the determined, leading to a gravel road up to Kenepuru Saddle (180m).  You could take the road from here further out into the sounds or back down Kenepuru sound to Portage.  However, we turn left onto single track up the ridge between Kenepuru and Queen Charlotte Sounds. It climbs, sidles at 300m, then drops and climbs to 400m.  Some sections are pretty steep and the early afternoon is warm but at least the the track is bone dry, which is lucky as there is a lot of clay and it looks like it could be a bit lethal in the wet.

We catch up and talk with a couple from the Nederlands on hire bikes who we see quite a bit of over the next couple of days. We take it easily so see most of the other bikers from the boat. There are also a handful of walkers but not as many as we expect.

The biking attire of the well dressed gent

A fine figure

There's a bit of private land along the track and the landowner around here seems intent on adding value with various signs including one exhorting bikers to slow down and look at the stunning view (it was).

First glimpse of Kenepuru sound

The track drops from 400m and we're cruising down at a good rate under pine trees when suddenly Mike's bike drops from under him and he crunches into the deck. There's a bit of a pause to straighten things out but we can't quite work out what went wrong.  Best bet is that he slipped off the shortened grips left when the bar ends were removed.  A few minor scrapes but nothing serious and the bike is fine so we head off at a more sedate pace.  The track climbs again to the Bay of Many Coves DoC campsite (toilet, tent sites, basic kitchen shelter, roof water) where we refill bottles before continuing the climb to the highest point of the trip (a bit below 500m).

Further along the Sound
Portage is in the bay behind and to the left of what looks like an island in the distance
Photo adjusted so you can see the Sound

Four kiwi blokes on bikes are taking a break at the top - they are also on a birthday trip but had included a big night in Picton so one or two are a little seedy.   They depart and a group of women appear out of the undergrowth having walked up from one of the bays below, this place is getting busy.  We chat for a bit before heading off down a hard clay and rock section.  Just out of sight of the walkers Mike disappears in a cloud of dust to reappear sliding down the rocky surface head first underneath his bike.  This time he's managed to leave a fair amount of skin on the track and fully justified the price of his gloves.  No broken bones though and after a bit of handlebar adjustment, he still has a fully functional bike.

The track undulates along giving views into both Sounds, and alternating between gentle sidling, steep grunts, beautiful bush and bare sections.  On a steepish downhill Mike's carrier disgorges his water bladder - it stays connected, thrashing around at the end of its tube and threatening to wind itself through the gears, but there's no stopping 'til the bottom. Surprisingly both it and Mike survive the experience with only a slight reduction in functionality (the nipple starts falling off - the bottle not Mike).

Black Rock Campsite is a milestone as it indicates we are getting near the end of the climbing and close to the last sidling run down to Torea Saddle (it's also a chance to fill water bottles).  We stop in and surprise a walker from Copenhagen who has also come through from Camp Bay - it's been long and hot for her and she's looking forward to getting to the Campsite at Cow Shed Bay.

Hold on, hold on - take the photo after I start pedaling

Coming into Black Rock Campsite

Finally it's the last long descent of the day through lovely bush.  Good visibility so no reason to hang about until a burst of loud anguished swearing from ahead.  A wasp has landed on Mike's arm and is casually stinging him while he can't swat it because he's hard on the brakes.  Whether a result of the wasp or end of the day fatigue two minutes later a pedal clips a rock and I am treated to the sight of Mike and bike hurtling sideways off the track and down a bank - this time Mike's upside down with a leg trapped in the bike at an angle it didn't oughta be at but surprisingly there's less damage than from the last off: one bent brake lever and a few more scrapes.  Fortunately it's only a couple of hundred meters later that we meet the tar seal road at Torea Saddle for a careful cruise down to the Portage, arriving about 5 hours after the boat drop off.

Bloodied but cheerful

The gory details

There's a few accommodation options around Portage but the support crew refused to entertain the possibility of the DoC Cowshed Bay campsite or the back-packers, so Portage Resort it is.  The rooms are a bit dated but have fantastic views across the bay into Kenepuru Sound, are quite comfortable and there's a pool, bar and restaurant.  The food and service is not to bad and we see some of the other bikers already in situ.  Mike is sore but gamely professes to have enjoyed the day and his injuries are promptly posted on face book for all to enjoy.

The support crew have been hard at it ...

Noses to the grind stone ...

Tireless.

Planning session over iron rations

Evening view from the balcony - not so bad

And a mighty fine view in the morning too

Despite the damage from the day before Angela lets me take Mike out for day two.  The section from Portage to Te Mahia Saddle starts with a steep and hot climb (a lot of pushing) but again rewarded by views across both sounds.   We stop to shift Mike's gear changers resulting in a huge improvement in control and no more spills. The down hills are huge fun - a mix of wide and fast, tight turns and a few slightly technical bits requiring a bit of attention.  There are a lot more walkers about so we don't push it.

Another bit of a push

We cross Te Mahia saddle shortly before midday and continue along the track, which gently climbs from 100m to 200m over about 3 km, and shows signs of a lot of development work.  We've packed a picnic today that would pass muster as an antipasto at a flash cafe, so stop for a good while to enjoy olives, pate, Camembert, and an assortment of cured meats on pita bed, over looking Onahau Bay.

This section is certainly the most cruisey riding - no great climbs, nicely benched, some beautiful bush, a bit of farm land...

Some not so rough track

As the track rounds the point before heading up Grove Arm there's a lookout which seems to be the destination for many as a there-and-back trip from Anakiwa.  There's also a ton of wasps and Mike has clearly not got over his experience yesterday, judging by the swearing and dancing about.

The lookout
Looking up Grove Arm to Link Water

We stay for a bit but it's pretty crowded, and there is a long downhill through beech forest beckoning, so we head out passing a folding bike on the way and many walkers.

Cruising the beech - coming

And going 
(The astute will notice that these are actually taken on the way back)

Shortly after the track reaches sea level there's a campsite at Davies Bay - There's no-one about and it looks idyllic, although probably gets pretty busy.  There's water and loos and a huge lawn for camping.

The high quality track continues to Anakiwa, which is pumping. All the bikes off our boat are waiting for a pick-up, the car park is full, and there are people and boats everywhere.  Our first stop is the caravan selling coffee, cold drinks at reasonable prices, and a basic range of food.

We are relaxing at the road end shelter chatting to the walker from Copenhagen, when an older couple turn up with a wheel barrow full of plums.  We help them unload and put up a sign: "Free Satsuma plums."  They say that the plums are just falling off the tree and going to waste, so they thought they would make them available.  We set them up next to the free library in the road end shelter.

The support crew are happy to be advised that we will return to Te Mahia saddle for pick-up, after we have enjoyed the afternoon chatting and waiting for the boat to pick up the other bikers.  It's a bit before 4pm when we head back up the track; a little quieter but still a few people about including a chap on an electric bike with his partner - he makes heavy weather of it but gets to the look out OK. They head back to Anakiwa and we have the spot to ourselves.  The Sounds are busy with boats and the baches along the Grove Track are copping the full afternoon sun - it's not exactly the back of beyond but it's a pretty cool spot.

Approaching the lookout

The last stretch along to the saddle is sweet riding, with a lot less traffic and we arrive bang on schedule. Mike and Sally load up while I scoot 10 km back along the tarseal to Portage.  Angela and Margot have headed south, so it's a much smaller group tonight and Mike hasn't got any more war wounds for show and tell.

The next day we head for Picton and the ferry but I can't resist taking the MTB track above the Grove track from Ngakuta bay to just short of the top of Wedge Point.  The track climbs above the road, with a few steepish pitches, but all ridable and provides views across Grove Arm to the Queen Charlotte track. There's a lot of clay, and it will be interesting to see how well the surface holds up.

All up, we took two easy days to complete the track and double the last section.  The track is generally in good condition, providing enjoyable riding.  There's quite a few steep pitches between Camp Bay and Te Mahia, that have most people pushing, and some sections look like they will be a bit treacherous in the wet.  The views are great, there's plenty of facilities on the way, and options for accommodation.  The Anakiwa section provides great options for shorter, easier trips.

Afterwards - dusty and a little battered but that was great fun!

Queen Charlotte MTB

5-7 April 2013
Solo

Tramping is off the agenda for the moment but the Doctor didn’t say anything about Mountain Biking and I had long intended to get set up for short tours; so the concept of the weekend adventure from Wellington came about.

Plan A was always a tour around Port Underwood but it couldn’t happen on weekend 1 and turned into an inclination to the Wairarapa (refer separate trip report). This, the next weekend is another Plan B; I had planned a Port Underwood excursion with Angela but she couldn’t make it in the end so a road foray along Keneperu Sound is scheduled.

By Thursday night the possibilities have crystallised to one preferred option and the necessary gear has migrated to the bedroom couch waiting to be stuffed into its designated place. Things were looking propitious, so non-refundable return tickets (now there's confidence) were booked late that evening and the bike lubed and loaded.

The trip starts with the 15K commute to work; pauses for the working day and resumes with a dash for the ferry. This proves you can make the 1825 ferry after a day’s work. The ride around the Blenheim vines is on so more than a handful of cyclist walk their mounts onto the freight deck of the Arahura. A few others are being picked up in Picton and have bought their bikes for pottering around in the weekend.

On board, the first order of the day is a roast chicken dinner. Good enough although the vege’s were already over cooked before the voyage even started. This fills the gaps and staves off boredom for the first 20 minutes. There is no swell in the strait so dinner stays put and there's nothing to do but snooze as the sky darkens to black by 19.30. Which reminds me: is it day light saving this weekend? "Fall back" therefore if I do forget I’ll just arrive an hour earlier for the return voyage so let’s forget about it for now. The trip passes quickly; reading the rail ferry 50th anniversary mag, eating ice cream and snoozing.

Suddenly Picton is announced and the exodus to vehicles begins. The bikes are lashed two deep to the wall on the train deck by various dubious and greasy cordage. We disentangle and are directed to wait to one side at the front of the deck and start exiting as soon as the door is open. It's just before 2130. A light wind doesn't make it cold but I am pleased to have two layers on as I swing onto the Grove track.

A small number of cars pass but these are soon gone and the night is quiet and dark. It’s a straight forward ride and Aussie Bay campsite easy to find. It’s about 40 min after leaving the ferry so I'm quite chuffed with my planning.

Finding a vacant spot is a little tricky as it’s not a huge site and there are quite a few vehicles about. Across the Sound a collection of lights may well be Anakiwa. By 11 the tent is up, ablutions abluted, fees paid and there’s time for a few notes before lights out.

Saturday

The night was quiet; trickling from the stream, the occasional slap of a wavelet, a far off Morepork. By 7.30 normal processes necessitate getting up. A few vehicles have left and the morning is over cast. By day I can see the camp is between the shore and road with a bit of screening bush. It feels like a transitional spot rather than one to come and stay for a few days; ideal for my purposes. Looking about there aren't that many tent spots and I seem to have nabbed the best one. The road is quiet until a peloton of riders whoosh past and I hear more following, surely too early for the vine ride.

During the night I seem to have decided to bike at least the first part of the Queen Charlotte track. I don't have a map but remember enough from a short walk here some years back to be fairly comfortable. Better text my changed intentions though.

Before I know it, I'm in Anakiwa looking across the sound trying to work out which strip of beach is Aussie bay. There is a charge to access the track ($12 for a 4 day pass) and a complicated machine which had a previous life in a car park to part punter from dosh. All a bit confusing and no change given; credit card an option for an extra fee. A couple of MTBers park up to head around to Keneperu saddle by road and back along the track; a good option if you have a vehicle.

There is a dearth of free maps of the track on pamphlets etc. and those on the sign boards lack detail. I don't have the topo map either but am reasonably comfortable with my memory of the basic topography. The first 12K to Te Mahia passes quickly. The track is wide and easily graded; never climbing above 200m allowing a good pace.

Grove Arm and Okiwa Bay; Anakiwa behind the helmet and Aussie Bay somewhere on the left

The next 7.5k section to Torea saddle starts with a stick mangling into the back derailleur, the gears jump under load for a while but it seems to come right.  The section requires some pushing; it is narrower, steeper, climbs higher and is more technical with some down-hills requiring attention. There are a few people on the track but nowhere near crowded so quite enjoyable. Looking north from the track the unseen heart of the Sounds reveals itself; the terra incognita peered at on maps becomes hills, bush, bays and sea with oh so picturesque patches of well-ordered pasture. Passing patches of sun pick up the impossibly neat farmland or intense green of a bay with golden beach.

All this beauty has left me quite breathless (or it could have been the hill). Either way I decide to lose 100 precious metres to investigate Portage. They have a shop and a café so as it is approaching 12 it is the ideal opportunity to support local business and have the gourmet burger with fries; the lunchtime One-Square-Meal in my pack doesn't stand a chance.  At $22 I'm very pleased with my purchase which arrives quickly and matches Wellington quality.

The service is also good; attentive and helpful (with a quick eye for the up-sell). I send a few "I'm still alive and changing my plans" texts, which may just also have had an element of "I'm eating outrageously in fab surroundings whilst roughing it, so go green with envy."

Anyway, I tuck in not thinking too hard about the slog ahead. The impromptu stop is also a chance for a few housekeeping items: checking the bike, a loo, water for the track, and getting change for the campsite.

Leaving portage about 1, the first thing is a 90m slog up to the saddle, then the climbing begins. The track condition is generally better than the last section but the 24K feels long and reaches about 500m altitude with a number of ups and downs on the way.  Hills I would have grunted up in the morning become an excuse to get off and push for a bit.

There are a number of saddles that mark progress.  The trouble with this is that you glide down to them with ease but it means you are immediately facing a climb; I prefer ticking off the high points where the views over Keneperu and Queen Charlotte Sounds demand a stop (and a breather).

Looking southish down, possibly, Blackwood Bay

For the first half there are quite a few people, about 50:50 MTBers and walkers. Two couples have boats to meet and by my reckoning need to get their skates on.  At Black Rock Shelter I meet the two chaps from the morning. They have some useful tips for the track ahead.  Everyone is considerate and a few are down-right chatty.

The views gradually change: views of Queen Charlotte Sound, then into Tory Channel to the South, and eventually the length of Keneperu Sound to the west-southwest. 

Near the top, looking the length of Keneperu Sound

At last I have the feeling that the track is grading down for a rendezvous with the road at Keneperu Saddle.  However it takes a while to do so and develops two characteristics: 1, patches of water seeping across the track, and 2, a yellow clay base with little or no leaf litter. This combined with road slicks (which have been fine 'til now), make for diverting riding. The back wheel takes to skipping gaily across the track at the merest thought of the brakes which is mostly ok, but when the front wheel takes a notion to do the same, things become interestingful.

Things reach a head at a section with a bit of grade and slick clay, eventually seeing a graceful divorce of rider and bike.  Neither party is damaged but it’s like trying to do slalom sprints on greased ice.  An awkward hoppy-skiddy technique proves to be pretty hopeless but better than walking or falling off.

A bit before 4 the road heaves into view. This is the point where I say farewell to the track and turn back towards the head of Keneperu Sound.  There are a couple of sections to go and I suspect one of them is quite steep - but not today.

Keneperu Saddle!

My destination for the night is reached in about 6km of downhill and flat gravel road. The Keneperu Head Campsite is new with a tonne of space, although little cover. The facilities are basic, but look pretty good, and include a shower (cold). The grass looks invitingly springy for under a tent.  However, I think there is a bit of juice left and I know that there are more campsites along the Sound with Portage about 12k away.

The short uphills are slow and the downhills a chance to rest. The going gets harder until I remember I haven't stopped to eat since lunch. An OSM provides an excuse not to pedal for a while and perks things up a bit.  The DoC sites flick by: Nikau Bay, Picnic Cove ... I check a few out; they cater a little better for vehicles than tents and are mostly small, but good options, and frequent enough that if one is full you just push on to the next.

Around 5 the last downhill glide takes me into Portage. For the second time that day I take a break and text in the café/bar. This time with a beer as a pick-me-up ($8.50 /pint; no local brews just the run-of-the-mill offerings from one of the usual multinational suspects). The same gent behind the bar helpfully points out that the Cowshed Bay Camp is within walking distance and therefore another beer could be in order.  I decline with one of those little lies that lubricate social discourse; "maybe I'll pop along after dinner."

Cowshed Bay is indeed very close. It is empty bar me and another tent, and half of it is a construction site.  It will be great when it's finished.

I select a romantic spot for the tent away from others under a cabbage tree overlooking the bay (it will probably cop the wind but I couldn’t pass it up).  I hear the calls first but soon a couple of weka are stooging about; although about the size of a chicken there the resemblance ends; no chicken has that level of smarts and casual kleptomania.

Cowshed Bay: still life with tent and bicycle

Taking a wander I find another half of the site on the other side of the road. Better sites and a loo. Ah well, I'm not moving now (well, not the tent anyhow).

It’s well after 7 and the wind has got up so I find a sheltered spot behind the workers shed and fire up the Penny stove for beef and pasta hot pot (for two). In about 10 minutes, half a litre of water is boiling and I'm trying to work out how to fit the dehy in (and wandering what the wekas are doing to my tent).

The tent is still there but sitting waiting for the dehy soak time to elapse it's not long before there is a weka within half a metre. It's a persistent bugger and I resolve that everything goes in the tent tonight.  I just hope they haven't flogged another biker’s tool kit and dismantle my bike.

The wind is still on the firm side and a few spots of rain come through but not enough to drive me indoors.  A weka squeezes under my feet as I sit next to the bike and demolish dinner in the deep dusk. The jetty lights at Portage are just around the corner and there is the odd bach light but by now little else is visible.

A couple of camper vans turn up, the first happily parks at the other end of the ground the second is closer but they don’t look like yahoos.

By 8.15 I'm in the pit listening to the wind, campervan noises, spots of rain and the odd weka fiddling with the tent.  Daylight savings tonight so plenty of time to kip.

Sunday
There's a few strong gusts and a period of rain during the night but it is calm by morning.  The dawn light brings a chorus with some bell birds (or tui?) precisely annunciating the same three and sometimes four note phrase. A tui throws out some guttural croaks and the wekas get even more active. They thunder about the campsite and rustle around the tent; the odd flurry and outraged squawk suggests a bit of scrapping going on.

As I pack, I turn my back on the open tent for a second, turning back a startled weka scrambles out of the middle of my gear and backs off a few paces.

My muesli was packed in the billy last night but is nowhere to be found now.  It never turns up; I suspect a weka knicked it while I was cooking last night.  It’s a salient lesson in packing light as there's nothing to eat but OSMs.  I tuck into one as I head off down the road around 7.30.

The culprit?

It takes longer than I thought to exit Keneperu sound via many dips and rises (rarely over 100m and only once above 150m).  Eventually I reach Linkwater and turn left onto the Grove Track, passing Aussie Bay about 9am, and arriving at the ferry terminal by 9.45.  Yes, my ticket can be changed to the 10.30 sailing ($5 surcharge).  There’s 15 minutes to get to a café for a hot chocolate and croissant melt in the sun. Perfect after a cool ride despite the morning sun.

Back at the rally point for bikes there is a lot of shunting in and out of the ferry; quite entertaining as they have a remote control loco; what a toy.  You can't help imagining it trying to stick a train through the front of the ship when someone pushes the wrong button. The workers jump on and off moving trains elegantly, I guess natural selection has taken care of the clumsy ones.

The other bikers are all returning from the grape ride and seem to have enjoyed the experience.  A few accidents to report though.

A few minutes after ETD they finally let us on. The tie down arrangements on the Aratere are about as crap as the Arahura. All the bikers are scratching their heads how to tether machines without sensitive bits getting mangled. The short bungies for my sleeping roll come in handy.

The voyage is under way by the time we scale the innards of the ship to the passenger areas. A seat in the forward lounge provides a panoramic view forward and access to coffee and iced water.  The voyage proceeds as any other, albeit fairly boisterous at times. Wellington looks gloomy and does its best to rain during the last few kilometres to be home by 2.20. 

Sitting in a hot bath soaking off the accumulated sweat of two day’s riding is a suitable denouement to a superb Plan B weekend.

The bike set up has performed well. I lowered the back bag as far as it would go and put the heaviest kit in my back pack. The track is pretty good but is still pretty hard on bike mounted gear. The handle bar mounted gear doesn't get in the way of the steering and helps distribute some weight forward.

The distances for those interested in repeating parts of the ride...

Picton to Aussie Bay                         15.7
Aussie to Queen Charlotte Track      7.8
Start to Te Mahia Saddle                  12.5
Te Mahia to Torea                               7.5 ? (Also saw a value of 9 point something)
Diversion to Portage                           1.0
Torea to Keneperu Saddle              24.5
Saddle to Head of Sound campsite   6.5
Head of Sound to Portage               12.3
Portage to Cowshed Bay                    0.6
Cowshed to Aussie Bay                    34.9
Aussie to Picton                                 15.7