Maud Island - Te Hoiere

Iona notices an advert for trips to Maud Island in the Marlborough Sounds - Angela is going and I manage to gate crash at the last moment.  Maud Island is a DOC Reserve with a ranger (and family as it turns out) on site.  Access is restricted and it seems like too good an opportunity to miss.

Angela and I rock up for a Friday evening Sounds Air flight to Blenheim - an attempt to get on the earlier flight is thwarted when the the ground crew belatedly realise we have the wrong boarding cards and call us back off the tarmac. Oh well, our flight still leaves early and we are being picked up in Blenheim about the same time we are supposed to be departing Wellington - I love Sounds Air!   

What:    Tourist trip to Maud Island
Where:   Marlborough Sounds
When:    15 January 2022
Who:       Iona and Angela

We convene at the Havelock Marina Pier C where a couple of DOC staff do the biosecurity check.  Seeds and mice are an issue and I thought I had checked my gear before I left.  But ... I've changed to my trail shoes and waiting in the queue I discover a truly astounding amount of grass seed caught in the mesh.  It's the most use I've ever got out of swiss army tweezers. When it's my turn I dutifully turn out pockets, backpack and display shoes that are now pristine. 

Eyeing up the boat we quickly identify that the plum spot is tucked in behind the cabin under the overhanging deck.  We nab it and settle in for the trip.

Our Captain (Gary) is part of a family that are long term resident of the Sounds and has worked the essential Mail Boat.  He is assisted by Mariett who makes sure we are plied with tea at appropriate times.  He maintains a commentary through the trip. 

We cruise out of the marina, around Cullen Point and into Pelorus Sound.  At this point roads and houses are visible along the shore line, but these soon drop behind as we cruise past the opening of Keneperu Sound and into Hikapu Reach.  We cruise in close to the mussel farms in Nikau Bay - Gary is in favour of the mussels but is not so keen on the pines which he sees as damaging the land and the water ways.  

Mussel farms

We pass Nydia Bay and into broader waters to approach a Gannett colony.  They seem pretty unperturbed as we bump against their rock - more interested in peeling off into the wind and heading off to feed.  The colony has grown from a few individuals to a sizable group over recent years.  Around the corner there is a face where juveniles are perching - the white streaks on the rock make it very obvious where the birds are choosing to perch.  It looks they are quite fussy about where they roost - presumably for the exactly best locations for wind to aid take off and landing.  As we leave the juveniles a large group take to the air and wheel and gather as the boat cruises away.  

Past Whakamawahi Point we again approach the shore, but not so close this time.  Here there is a colony of rare shags - they are more weary and we can see them shifting uneasily at our presence even though we are some way out.  

Maud Island is now dead ahead, and Gary recommends we have our lunch and use the loo before landing.  It's an intriguing shape with a long narrow neck pointing towards us.  The jetty is dead ahead and we come straight in to unload about 12.20.

Time on the island is limited with the departure time set for 3.30.  There's a foot bath on the jetty and we climb up the farm track to meet the ranger and family.  Nick and Jen with Theo (5) and Georgina (toddler) have only recently arrived on the island but give a credibly expert run down on the island history and wildlife.  

The main claim to fame is that although the island was a farm - a patch of bush above the homestead was never cleared and was subsequently discovered to contain approx 40,000 specimens of Maud Island frog Leiopelma pakeka.  There are other colonies and Zelandia has them but this is the most significant population.  It's almost unbelievable that the island has remained largely predator free, given its location and previous use.  Maud Island Frog doesn't hop, croak, have a tadpole stage and lives its life within a very small area - achieving ages in the mid 30s.

They also have giant weta (one of which emerges and climbs up a punter's leg during the course of the talk) carnivorous snails, and a rare flax weevil that we don't see.

After the talk they take us up to the gun emplacement at the northern tip of the island.  Stopping at the magazine on the way where a colony of cave weta have taken over, gathering in spiky clumps on the roof.

The emplacement is in mint condition and commands the northern tip of the island - ostensibly controlling the entrance to Pelorus Sound, directly ahead.  I quickly work out a way to get the best views by climbing onto the roof.

 

Back towards the neck

Looking up the island

The island used to be bare apart from the patch of bush above the homestead - it's good to see the natives reestablishing.  I find a wee track in front of the emplacement and follow it to see how far down the point you can get.  It leads to a beacon and a quiet spot to enjoy the view.

Back at the emplacement the group has headed off and we have a few minutes to enjoy the site alone before following along to the homestead.

Nick answers a few more questions then it's time to head back to the jetty.  

You saw the small Giant weta - the real ones are much bigger ...

We board the boat and wave good bye to Nick and Jen on the jetty and watch Maud Island disappear in our wake.  It's a quieter and more direct trip back.  We snooze on the deck, drink tea and chill until pulling into Havelock about 6pm.   A fantastic trip.