Queen Charlotte by MTB

About five years ago Mike had a significant birthday and we gave him a voucher for a MTB trip through the Heaphy track.  This was proving logistically a bit tricky so we eventually settled on a date (Waitangi weekend) to do the Queen Charlotte track instead, giving the advantage of summer riding and the ability to stay with the support crew in comfortable accommodation.

The track is open for 43 Km from Camp Bay (Kenepuru Saddle) to Anakiwa during summer so it's not the whole experience but still a good day or weekend jaunt.  I'd done the route from Anakiwa to the road above Camp Bay (Kenepuru Saddle) once before in different circumstances (link).

Click here to see the route in Google maps.

The support crew is augmented by Angela and her mum (who were kicking off a grand tour of the South) and Toby.  Just Mike and I biking; Josh was also a starter but unfortunately had to pull out just before kick off.  He was however incredibly sporting, allowing the use of his Forester, the perfect vehicle for frightening oncoming traffic on narrow roads and hauling dirty bikes and bikers (I've found that someone else's car is generally preferred for this sought of activity).

We rock up for the Friday evening Bluebridge sailing which is virtually deserted.  The company's legendary easy going attitude is tested when Mike misses boarding in the car because he's at McDonalds. But he hitches a lift with some bemused tourists and everyone is soon settling into the quiet room, the movie room, the cafe, or the cabin that Angela had the foresight to book.

After a smooth crossing and a night at the perfectly adequate Picton Yacht Club the bikers potter off down to the Cougar Line office to shell out $60 each for one way transfers plus $18 for a multi-day pass (2 to five days) for the track from the office next door.  There's at least two other companies providing pick-up/drop-off options and luggage transfers. This all leaves ample time for breakfast at Le Cafe before a 10am departure.

Before - clean, uninjured and full of anticipation

Just one of the support crew rustles up enough enthusiasm to wave the boys good-bye, the others loiter about the motel and Picton's Cafes before a leisurely drive to Portage via the Slip Inn in Havelock.

Right - let's see why it's called Cougar Line

Steaming out
The keen eyed may detect the boys on the back deck to the left

The boat is a twin hull of a good size and 10 or 15 bikes are loaded on, various parcels and more than 20 people.  It turns out to be a shuttle rather than a taxi; we roar across the water but stop to make about 10 drop off and pick ups around the Sounds (including Ships Cove which looks like a gorgeous spot). It's quite interesting to pull in at the various jetties and see slices of peoples holidays, from families snorkeling near their wee cribs, to lunching ladies landing at large lodges.  We are also impressed to see the amount of work on wilding pines with ridge-sides of dead trees making way for regenerating bush - but plenty more to do.

Eventually (almost 2 hours later) all the bikers are dropped off at Camp Bay (Punga Cove).  There's a cafe by the wharf whose patrons look on with mild interest as bikers organise themselves in all directions.  The instructions are pretty clear - head right off the wharf and follow the wee track around to the DoC campsite (toilets, cooking shelter, water, tent sites).  Being midday we stop in for lunch and a lass appears out of a nearby tent - she is staying for 2 weeks as a volunteer campsite "host" - obviously a fairly busy spot and I imagine her presence ensures a few more people pay than would otherwise.

Lots of sympathy for a hot biker

A quad track dives up the hill behind the camp - steep but rideable for the determined, leading to a gravel road up to Kenepuru Saddle (180m).  You could take the road from here further out into the sounds or back down Kenepuru sound to Portage.  However, we turn left onto single track up the ridge between Kenepuru and Queen Charlotte Sounds. It climbs, sidles at 300m, then drops and climbs to 400m.  Some sections are pretty steep and the early afternoon is warm but at least the the track is bone dry, which is lucky as there is a lot of clay and it looks like it could be a bit lethal in the wet.

We catch up and talk with a couple from the Nederlands on hire bikes who we see quite a bit of over the next couple of days. We take it easily so see most of the other bikers from the boat. There are also a handful of walkers but not as many as we expect.

The biking attire of the well dressed gent

A fine figure

There's a bit of private land along the track and the landowner around here seems intent on adding value with various signs including one exhorting bikers to slow down and look at the stunning view (it was).

First glimpse of Kenepuru sound

The track drops from 400m and we're cruising down at a good rate under pine trees when suddenly Mike's bike drops from under him and he crunches into the deck. There's a bit of a pause to straighten things out but we can't quite work out what went wrong.  Best bet is that he slipped off the shortened grips left when the bar ends were removed.  A few minor scrapes but nothing serious and the bike is fine so we head off at a more sedate pace.  The track climbs again to the Bay of Many Coves DoC campsite (toilet, tent sites, basic kitchen shelter, roof water) where we refill bottles before continuing the climb to the highest point of the trip (a bit below 500m).

Further along the Sound
Portage is in the bay behind and to the left of what looks like an island in the distance
Photo adjusted so you can see the Sound

Four kiwi blokes on bikes are taking a break at the top - they are also on a birthday trip but had included a big night in Picton so one or two are a little seedy.   They depart and a group of women appear out of the undergrowth having walked up from one of the bays below, this place is getting busy.  We chat for a bit before heading off down a hard clay and rock section.  Just out of sight of the walkers Mike disappears in a cloud of dust to reappear sliding down the rocky surface head first underneath his bike.  This time he's managed to leave a fair amount of skin on the track and fully justified the price of his gloves.  No broken bones though and after a bit of handlebar adjustment, he still has a fully functional bike.

The track undulates along giving views into both Sounds, and alternating between gentle sidling, steep grunts, beautiful bush and bare sections.  On a steepish downhill Mike's carrier disgorges his water bladder - it stays connected, thrashing around at the end of its tube and threatening to wind itself through the gears, but there's no stopping 'til the bottom. Surprisingly both it and Mike survive the experience with only a slight reduction in functionality (the nipple starts falling off - the bottle not Mike).

Black Rock Campsite is a milestone as it indicates we are getting near the end of the climbing and close to the last sidling run down to Torea Saddle (it's also a chance to fill water bottles).  We stop in and surprise a walker from Copenhagen who has also come through from Camp Bay - it's been long and hot for her and she's looking forward to getting to the Campsite at Cow Shed Bay.

Hold on, hold on - take the photo after I start pedaling

Coming into Black Rock Campsite

Finally it's the last long descent of the day through lovely bush.  Good visibility so no reason to hang about until a burst of loud anguished swearing from ahead.  A wasp has landed on Mike's arm and is casually stinging him while he can't swat it because he's hard on the brakes.  Whether a result of the wasp or end of the day fatigue two minutes later a pedal clips a rock and I am treated to the sight of Mike and bike hurtling sideways off the track and down a bank - this time Mike's upside down with a leg trapped in the bike at an angle it didn't oughta be at but surprisingly there's less damage than from the last off: one bent brake lever and a few more scrapes.  Fortunately it's only a couple of hundred meters later that we meet the tar seal road at Torea Saddle for a careful cruise down to the Portage, arriving about 5 hours after the boat drop off.

Bloodied but cheerful

The gory details

There's a few accommodation options around Portage but the support crew refused to entertain the possibility of the DoC Cowshed Bay campsite or the back-packers, so Portage Resort it is.  The rooms are a bit dated but have fantastic views across the bay into Kenepuru Sound, are quite comfortable and there's a pool, bar and restaurant.  The food and service is not to bad and we see some of the other bikers already in situ.  Mike is sore but gamely professes to have enjoyed the day and his injuries are promptly posted on face book for all to enjoy.

The support crew have been hard at it ...

Noses to the grind stone ...

Tireless.

Planning session over iron rations

Evening view from the balcony - not so bad

And a mighty fine view in the morning too

Despite the damage from the day before Angela lets me take Mike out for day two.  The section from Portage to Te Mahia Saddle starts with a steep and hot climb (a lot of pushing) but again rewarded by views across both sounds.   We stop to shift Mike's gear changers resulting in a huge improvement in control and no more spills. The down hills are huge fun - a mix of wide and fast, tight turns and a few slightly technical bits requiring a bit of attention.  There are a lot more walkers about so we don't push it.

Another bit of a push

We cross Te Mahia saddle shortly before midday and continue along the track, which gently climbs from 100m to 200m over about 3 km, and shows signs of a lot of development work.  We've packed a picnic today that would pass muster as an antipasto at a flash cafe, so stop for a good while to enjoy olives, pate, Camembert, and an assortment of cured meats on pita bed, over looking Onahau Bay.

This section is certainly the most cruisey riding - no great climbs, nicely benched, some beautiful bush, a bit of farm land...

Some not so rough track

As the track rounds the point before heading up Grove Arm there's a lookout which seems to be the destination for many as a there-and-back trip from Anakiwa.  There's also a ton of wasps and Mike has clearly not got over his experience yesterday, judging by the swearing and dancing about.

The lookout
Looking up Grove Arm to Link Water

We stay for a bit but it's pretty crowded, and there is a long downhill through beech forest beckoning, so we head out passing a folding bike on the way and many walkers.

Cruising the beech - coming

And going 
(The astute will notice that these are actually taken on the way back)

Shortly after the track reaches sea level there's a campsite at Davies Bay - There's no-one about and it looks idyllic, although probably gets pretty busy.  There's water and loos and a huge lawn for camping.

The high quality track continues to Anakiwa, which is pumping. All the bikes off our boat are waiting for a pick-up, the car park is full, and there are people and boats everywhere.  Our first stop is the caravan selling coffee, cold drinks at reasonable prices, and a basic range of food.

We are relaxing at the road end shelter chatting to the walker from Copenhagen, when an older couple turn up with a wheel barrow full of plums.  We help them unload and put up a sign: "Free Satsuma plums."  They say that the plums are just falling off the tree and going to waste, so they thought they would make them available.  We set them up next to the free library in the road end shelter.

The support crew are happy to be advised that we will return to Te Mahia saddle for pick-up, after we have enjoyed the afternoon chatting and waiting for the boat to pick up the other bikers.  It's a bit before 4pm when we head back up the track; a little quieter but still a few people about including a chap on an electric bike with his partner - he makes heavy weather of it but gets to the look out OK. They head back to Anakiwa and we have the spot to ourselves.  The Sounds are busy with boats and the baches along the Grove Track are copping the full afternoon sun - it's not exactly the back of beyond but it's a pretty cool spot.

Approaching the lookout

The last stretch along to the saddle is sweet riding, with a lot less traffic and we arrive bang on schedule. Mike and Sally load up while I scoot 10 km back along the tarseal to Portage.  Angela and Margot have headed south, so it's a much smaller group tonight and Mike hasn't got any more war wounds for show and tell.

The next day we head for Picton and the ferry but I can't resist taking the MTB track above the Grove track from Ngakuta bay to just short of the top of Wedge Point.  The track climbs above the road, with a few steepish pitches, but all ridable and provides views across Grove Arm to the Queen Charlotte track. There's a lot of clay, and it will be interesting to see how well the surface holds up.

All up, we took two easy days to complete the track and double the last section.  The track is generally in good condition, providing enjoyable riding.  There's quite a few steep pitches between Camp Bay and Te Mahia, that have most people pushing, and some sections look like they will be a bit treacherous in the wet.  The views are great, there's plenty of facilities on the way, and options for accommodation.  The Anakiwa section provides great options for shorter, easier trips.

Afterwards - dusty and a little battered but that was great fun!