Mt Matthews to Papatahi Crossing

Another rainy forecast so another weekend that a trip to the tops around Mitre Peak is not a goer. It's starting to feel like I'm running out of plan Bs. The Orongorongo River is normally not too bad after rain so I work out a trip that takes in a chunk of new track, as well as a bit of a bash through tiger country.

What:    Mix of on-track and nav.
Where:  Orongorongos: Mt Matthews and Papatahi
Why:     Check out some tracks and fill in a gap on the Rimutaka Range
Who:     Solo
When:   5 November 2016
Map:     Map

At 6.40am the cheerfully named Sunny Grove in Wainuiomata is predictably quiet. I leave the car at the curb hoping that no-one decides that it is either a derelict for towing, or sets fire to it as a jolly Guy Fawkes prank. 

The route I've planned is a 500m climb following the Whakanui Track over the ridges from the back of Wainuiomata to the Orongorongo River, climb 800m to Mt Matthews then navigate the jagged ridge line north to Papatahi, descend to the Orongorongo River again to bash up to the East Whakanui Track to cross back across the ridges to Wainuiomata. I'm carrying a bivy tent and supplies for a night out on the way.

A discrete DoC sign board indicates the way to the Whakanui Track and I'm soon out of suburbia and climbing through bush. 40 minutes later, breaks in the cover give views across hills patched with sun and cloud shadows towards the Hutt. 

North west over Wainuiomata 

Kiwi country

Near the top, signs put up by a local trust provide a friendly reminder about the programme that has reintroduced kiwi to these hills. You can only hope that the locals are careful about their dogs, because Sunny Grove is less than 45 minutes away.

Whakanui Track follows the ridge between Whakanui Creek and Turere Stream. It is pleasant going on the ridge top, with the clag lurking and the rain holding off. This part of the range is somewhat nondescript. It lurks shyly between the harbour edge hills and the more dramatic main Rimutaka Range, with its highest point a modest 800m. But the bush is regenerating nicely, trapping programmes are making inroads on the predators, and if you're around at the right time of day the call of kiwi once again echo through the low valleys. On a clear day, it can also reward with rare snippets of views across the harbour and the Wellington hills.

At 497 the Track leaves the ridge and drops down a spur to the river. I imagine the rest of the ridge down to the Turere Lodge is completely navigable and probably used for trapping.  Just before the valley floor, a gap shows Mt Matthews with its distinctive erosion scars and a puff of cloud on top.

Mt Matthews with its head in the clouds -
my route along the ridge to the left

About 2:10 after setting out I'm at the bottom and contemplating how to cross the Orongorongo River with dry feet. The flow is pretty modest so I opt for the one-boot-hop. This involves selecting a suitable stretch of river and, after removing one boot, hoping daintily across resting boot-clad foot on handy rocks whilst the naked foot takes it's chances in the cold water. It works in that I have dry boots for the climb up Mt Matthews, but I don't recommend it.

This is the first time I've seen water flowing at the mouth of the Matthews Stream - normally the water has drained into the shingle fan well up the gully. Still, it has that slightly odd characteristic of getting bigger as you follow it up.

No-one seems to have been up this way yet this morning and I potter on up enjoying the quiet and the bush, and frequent pauses for breath. 3:15 from Wainui and the clearing above South Saddle is a welcome stop. The weather is turning out pretty much perfect - no wind and overcast.

South Saddle, Welly in the distance and McKerrow behind the hat.

20 minutes later there's time for a pause for yet another forlorn attempt to capture the gnarled, muffled softness of goblin forest.

Beech forest, Mt Matthews

10 minutes later the balcony gives the first view of the Wairarapa and a glimpse of the ridge north. But there's a better view of what comes next a bit further along.

View from the balcony 

There's a route through there somewhere ... north towards Papatahi

Just over 4 hours after leaving the car I've navigated the slips on the back of Mt Matthews to be rewarded by that stunning vista across Palliser Bay.

Lake Onoke, Palliser Bay and the Aorangi Range beyond (more about those hills next week)

Now things get interesting. I have no idea what the ridge will be like - the map promises it will be dramatic and the vegetation indicates it will be tough. From what I've seen so far it looks like it will be both. There's a sign at the top pointing to north saddle and I scramble into the scrub to see what the route down is like.

The route drops 200m off Mt Matthews into a saddle, and someone has thoughtfully marked the way with wee orange triangles and cut away the more annoying branches. It makes it somewhat easier but it is still steep and treacherous: a lot of the branches are rotten and the ground is pretty loose in places. I'm quite comfortable but I hope no-one follows the markers that isn't up to this type of travel.

On the way down I note an orange tent in a clearing on point 616 and wonder idly if there are hunters about. The markers drop me into the first wee saddle and a view down one of the eroded gullies towards the coast.

Typical south coast eroding gully -
headwaters of Corner Creek

There's a small bushy knob to negotiate in the saddle, and as I make way up a series of nearby rifle shots boom and echo around the steep gullies. I quickly work out that they are coming from the other side of the knob, so I'm not in the direct line of fire, but it's a little unnerving.

Letting out some loud whistles and checking that my orange cap is at its brightest angle I edge around the knob and cautiously check out the other side. The shots have stopped but I can't see anyone - not surprising - that's the general idea when hunting. However, a low whistle confirms that I've been seen so I make good pace to get along the ridge and out of the area, stopping for a couple of snaps on the way of course.

From the knob looking at the next section of ridge

The other side of the knob reveals another saddle with a sharply eroding top and some tricky little scrambles. One option is to straddle the knife edge and wriggle inelegantly along, but an orange marker indicates that some of the apparently crumbly face is a bit more stable than it appears.

Looking back at the knob with Mt Matthews behind

The other side of the scramble puts me on the ridge above the 616 spur, and I come across three hunters and a dog relaxing on the track. They are the owners of the tent and the shots. We chat for a bit.  They've come up one of the streams from the south coast, pinged some deer yesterday, and were just potting at some goats when I came through. They're a little surprised at the distance I'm planning to cover and, as always, I'm amazed by the weight they are carrying. Discussing their route out, I'm surprised that they intend to follow the streams, whereas I would stick to the ridges.

I leave them to it and head on through North Saddle. The markers continue for a while but then dive west into the gully. Probably dropping into Matthews Stream. After this point there is little indication that people come this way although they surely must.

Looking south from North Saddle

It's a bit of a grovel up out of the saddle with little indication that anything over three foot tall travels through the bush hereabouts. A goat trots away in front, in confirmation of the theory. To make it even more enjoyable, two of my favourite plants are in plentiful supply: bush lawyer and ongaonga.

It's quite tricky travel now - there is a mix of forest and scrub and it is frequently difficult to work out exactly where the ridge runs.

Making some progress - Papatahi in the distance
Probably from around 830

Looking south, Orongorongo River on right

The mixed scrub and forest is draining travel, the animal trails are often over loose or boggy ground and there are frequent low and rotten branches. Coming up to 819, I manage to drift off to the left a bit and pop out on the edge of a fairly startling scarp. It's a bit of work to get back up to the ridge, only to drift on to a knob off to the right of the main ridge. Taking a direct line back to the ridge sees me struggling through chest high scrub, at one point plunging one hand into a healthy nettle bush.

It's hard work getting around and down to the saddle past 819, where to my relief there is a small stream trickling out of the hill. This is taking longer, and is hotter, than expected.

In amongst the bush it is sometimes quite tricky to work out which steep sided ridge or spur is the one to head for, so it takes a little while to get to the final saddle. After starting up the final steep spur the bush opens, and there are spectacular views south along the tortuous ridge. There's a choice of thrashing up through impenetrable low bush or edging along a steep drop. I elect for clutching handfuls of grass whilst navigating up along the precipitous edge. The ground is dry, and the grip pretty good, so it's a question of being careful rather than scared.

Looking south from further along ...

and looking down

It seems to take a long time, but is about half an hour to work up the 200m into mature forest, and along the flat topped Papatahi, to eventually and inevitably stumble onto the Papatahi Track.

Been a while since seeing one of these

The top is a minute from where I hit the track. It's 4.25, almost five and three quarters hours after leaving Mt Matthews: that ridge was indeed tough! The weather is changing, but I take the time for a celebratory tin of sardines, before turning to the 700m  descent. At least there are no branches, nettles and brush lawyer to push through.

Top of Papatahi - and there goes the weather

Half an hour later I've dropped down the last of the steep scrambles into a stream bed, and topped up with water, before following it down to North Boulder Creek, then the Orongorongo River, on the way down disturbing a family of goats. The billy keeps a weather eye on me whilst letting the others go ahead.

I've been this way once before with Mike in the opposite direction. The river has a different character to the wide shingle bed down the valley. Upstream is the warning sign about entering the drinking water catchment, and downstream is the domain of huts, tracks and people.

Orongorongo River - up stream

There's no where to cross the river with dry feet, so I do the one boot hop again. Rather than follow down to the mouth of the Whakanui Stream, I pick a likely looking spur which turns out to have an old route up to the East Whakanui Track (with occasional tin markers). It's slow going, so it is 6.45 by the time I finally emerge on the track, 200m or so short of 502.

The track is well trodden - mainly for pest control by the look of it (traps and blue triangle markers apart from one section where they have left orange for some reason). On another day it would be quite a pleasurable amble, but it's been a long day now so I plod along and up into cloud and gathering gloom.

I'm quite interested to see what's at the top. I had tried to hit this track on an earlier visit to the area but discovered by accident an old and very well made trail that deposited me way off course behind locked gates in the water catchment. I'm keen not to repeat the experience.

At the top of the evocatively named 'spot height 800'
With stoat trap

It's 7.45 before the track tops out and turns firmly left with, to the right, a sign warning about the water catchment. That's pretty clear then - no danger of wandering off in the wrong direction. It's nice to know that the climbing is all done, but the cloud is piling in from the west and a raincoat is in order, followed not too long later by a head torch.

The track drops 200m into a saddle and is easy to follow. After climbing 100m I miss the Whakanui Track joining from the left, but manage to identify where the Nikau Creek Track drops off. I saw no signs and I note afterwards that, although marked on my map, it is not on the web topo map. I'm interested to follow this down, so as to complete the loop on a different track.

As I descend in the dark the sounds of Guy Fawkes and frightened dogs drift up from Wainuiomata and the massive booms rumble in the background from the Wellington display. The track is not as well traveled, and only sporadically marked, so there are quite a few points where a strategic retreat to the last identifiable marker or section of trail is necessary, in order to find the way forward. This is particularly problematic where there is the odd tree fall or a lot of leaf litter obliterating the foot pad. It is painstaking work but I'm not keen on trying to bush bash in this country in the pitch black.

It's the sort of situation where you pay attention and realise just how much you rely on visual clues and peripheral vision to maintain a sense of direction. The odd marker, glimpse of distant street lights, and the compass needle are the only things that can really be trusted.

It takes a long time to work down the spur. At last the sounds of water drift up from the creek and, after navigating a final tree fall, I'm crossing it to try and find a path on the other side. The track I find is wide and very well made. The last 10 minutes or so are much easier going on the flat without having to worry about branches in the face or dodgy footing. It spits me out in the car park at the end of Hine Road beside the Garden of Remembrance.

It's less than a kilometre under orange street lights to where the car waits. I am totally relieved to throw my pack into the unburnt car and head for home; near as dammit to 16 hours after setting out.

Post Script

This was a bit of a stretch for a day trip with a weekend pack. The Whakanui Tracks are both well worth doing and Mt Matthews is always a crowd-pleaser. The ridge from Matthews to Papatahi is not for the faint-hearted. Although initially marked, most of it doesn't seem to get much in the way of traffic and there are some quite steep, exposed and unstable sections. I ended up covered in bruises and scrapes from the tough scrub (legs particularly) along with numerous nettle stings and scratches to hands and face from bushlawyer.  Later in summer, water will be a concern, not to mention overheating. I probably shouldn't really have bashed up the spur to East Whakanui Track, as that part of the park doesn't really need people going off track too much. And, although taken carefully it was fine, I wouldn't recommend doing the stretch down to Nikau Creek for the first time in the dark.

Mt Matthews

Mike is the consummate organiser. His latest idea is a weekend reunion for those that had gone trekking in Nepal with him in 2014 and with Angela, Toby and him in 2015. And what more appropriate way to do it than heading in to Mt Matthews in the Rimutaka Forest Park.  At 941m it is hardly the lung squeezing altitudes they had experienced on the trek but it is the highest point in the Rimutakas and higher than any other hill around the Hutt or Wellington.

He wasn't averse to the odd gate crasher so - as I didn't have anything else specifically planned; and it looked like an interesting bunch of people; and last time I went up Mt Matthews I didn't spend a lot of time looking at the views (link) - I signed up.

Mike's teaser e-mail proposed two groups: the JCVDs (Jean Claude Van Dams) and the Paris Hiltons. The JCVDers would walk in to Waerenga hut on Friday night, up Mt Mathews on Saturday and out via Cattle Ridge on Sunday.  The Paris Hiltons would amble in Saturday, relax in the sun, swill Moet in the evening with the peak baggers and potter out the next day the way they came in.

With a stop for Maccas, Pete, Mike and I are at the park entrance bang on 6.30pm to discover the gates had locked at 6. Bugger.  Isy turns up shortly after to find us kitting up for the extra 2km walk along the sealed road. We're not keen to leave the cars by the coast road all weekend but there's a public phone with free local calls at the DoC station (no cell phone coverage) so Mike organises for Angela and the other Paris Hiltons to ferry the two cars up to the main carpark when they arrive in the morning. All going well the other JCVDs are already at the hut.

It's a pleasant walk along the road on a mild evening.  The stars are out and the lights of campers are scattered along the way.  And it's not much different once we get onto the track - wide, smooth, and the odd possum crashing off into the undergrowth.  Pretty soon we hit the halfway bridge and stop for a bit with the lights off.  A few wisps of cloud means the stars are less in evidence but the forecast is good, so no worries.

The Orongorongo River is as low as any of us have seen it, Pete changes into his river crossing foot wear and the rest of us skip across with dry feet. Then it's a short amble up to the hut to find the rest of the peak party already in bed and it's barely 9pm.

Waerenga hut belongs to Tararua Tramping Club - it's a good size and well looked after with plenty of room for the 10 of us. Mike elects to sleep on the porch, Pete on the bench seat and Isy and I settle into the top bunk sauna.

In the morning there's the usual cheerful chaos as everyone arranges breakfasts and day packs. The value of having nursing and trekking experience in the party is soon evident with advice and medications available to pretty much any query that comes up. And it's a pretty efficient bunch as we are heading off on time at 8am, after the obligatory group photo.

Saturday morning; about to leave base camp
Isy, Jacquie, Pete, Tony, Mike, Fliss, Chris, John and Lorraine

And they're off in a flying V formation

The stroll up the river is easy going.  There's quite a few 'river' crossings but the water is barely over the ankles and is almost warm. The morning sun accentuates the gold in the bush and spills across the wide shingle river bed.  The odd plume of smoke filters up from one of the many camp sites and huts hidden in the bush.

Chris and Lorraine safely across, Jacquie and Isy about to risk wet ankles
Turere Lodge behind

A couple of hunters sitting on the shingle, staring intently at the bush along the flats, are the only people we see (hopefully they weren't thinking of shooting anything in the area, given the number of campsites).

I have a good chat with Tony on the way hearing about the enjoyment he and Lorraine are getting from coming into tramping relatively recently and managing to knock off most of the great walks. It makes it a short hour to Matthews Stream (or, more accurately, shingle fan) where we pause. Pete stashes his river-crossing-shoes-and-socks and changes into his mountain-climbing-socks-and-boots.

Matthews Stream - preparing for the climb.
The flanks of Mt Matthews in the background

Pete changing footwear

We pick our way up the stream bed and onto the terrace at the foot of the first rise. There sure is a lot of rock coming out of this catchment.

After a few easy preliminaries the scramble starts. We are soon using roots, rocks and branches to heave ourselves up. The damp and slippery humus near the valley floor is quickly left behind for hard dry clay so the footing is pretty good.

With a large party the pace is measured giving the opportunity to note Warblers, Tui, Wax Eyes, Kereru, probably some Rifleman and possibly the odd Bell Bird. There's a few Rata flowers about and mercifully few wasps.  It's also a chance to chat to others in the party - as expected it's a varied and interesting group. Jacquie takes a keen interest when she notices that I'm keeping an eye on the map for practice - so we take opportunities to identify some of the surrounding features. Fliss meanwhile is happy to be tail end Charlie; setting her own pace but keeping in touch with the group ahead.

Lorraine and Isy taking a breather on the way up

And another

We reach the clearing above the Mukamuka Saddle at 10:40 for snacks and a breather.

Ridge to Mt Matthews on the left, Mukamuka Valley to south, coast centre, ridge to McKerrow on right
Note Chris managing to be in three places at once

Mt Matthews really is a perfect day tramp.  There's a physical challenge without needing particular technical skill or equipment, and the reward of quite special views.

The physical challenge is the steepness and Mt Matthew's reticence about giving up the final summit. There's a steep scramble from the Mukamuka clearing before the grade eases and the track meanders up the ridge with the odd dip. When you think you're on the final approach there's one last little twist, as the track dives around the south side to approach the top via a somewhat greasy scramble through a jumble of fallen trees. Here the alert are rewarded by a last stunning view behind: Seatoun, the Wellington south coast, the city, and the South Island.

On a good day the beauty about Mt Matthews is the way the vistas open up as you climb above the surrounding hills, with just glimpses granted through the trees. The clearing above the Mukamuka Saddle at 640m provides a sudden and perfect view in a westerly direction between the southern part of the Rimutaka Range and Mt McKerrow to the city surrounding a still harbour and with Mt Kaukau, the turbines and serried ranges in the South Island behind. This vista develops the further you climb, but is not visible from the top.

With a map (or some familiarity), the immediate surroundings become clearer with the somewhat unremarkable McKerrow across the valley (it's even less impressive when you walk over it), the more dramatic Papatahi further up the range (and the Papatahi Crossing) and the catchment where a fair chunk of Wellington's water supply originates. Occasionally the shingle fan where Matthews Stream joins the Orongorongo River is a reminder of the height gained (and yet to be descended).

On a particularly pleasant section through goblin forest, the track leads to a mossy balcony framed by beech trees with the first view across the jagged spine of the range to the Wairarapa Plains. The bottom end of Lake Wairarapa is just visible as are the curves of the Ruamahanga River in the distance.

John takes in the first view of the Wairarapa

It's a little after 12 when we reach the cleared area at the top, to be greeted by a stunning view. A gentle curve of white surf draws the eye across the blue and green Palliser Bay to the dry coast sweeping south to the cluster of houses at Ngawi. The southern tip of the North Island; Cape Palliser is just out of sight beyond. The dark bush on the Aorangi Range rises behind and runs north across the horizon. The Putangirua Pinnacles are not visible but you can see just how they can be produced by this steep and eroding land. In the middle distance Lake Onoke marks the Ruamahanga's final pause before it passes through a break in the shingle bank and into the sea, with the small cluster of buildings at Lake Ferry just visible near the mouth. Closer still, an orderly patchwork of trees, buildings and paddocks marks the genteel and ever so expensive Wharekauhau Estate.  The terrace it sits on is cut deeply by streams and crumbles to the beach below.

Palliser Bay

It's a pretty satisfied party that sit in the sun sharing lunch looking across the bay.

The trip down may be a little hard on protesting knees but you pick up a few view spots that you missed on the way up and gravity is helpful.  We note a hunter perched on a bluff looking down into the Mukamuka Valley but he has disappeared by the time I poke my head cautiously into the saddle, after a short detour off the main route along a considerably less well traveled track.

John rockets on ahead from the clearing to put the beer in the river, while the rest of the party takes a more leisurely pace, lowering themselves gingerly down the steep bits. A short pause at the bottom sees Chris and Flissy reunited with the group for the final walk down the river.

There's a few more people about, including a bunch of Mike's former work colleagues eyeing up a river terrace for their survival weekend. This seems to involve a short walk in and lots of beer, bacon and vodka. For some reason the Lord of the Flies crosses my mind.

Tramping the Paris Hilton way
Phillipa, Angela and Toby

The Paris Hiltons have had the scheduled easy day, some of them starting off with breakfast at the Dowse. Margaret, Graham, Phillipa, Angela and Toby are now enjoying the last of the sun when we arrive around 4.30. Toby has kept himself busy burning off excess energy in the productive pastime of splitting fire wood.


The party shows its generous nature with a large wheel of Camembert appearing for sharing (thanks Margaret and Graham!) along with dip, salami, crackers and other goodies. A bottle of bubbly and some select craft beers have also been lugged in.


There's no shortage of conversation, with coolish drinks flowing, and tales from Nepal and Mt Matthews and future trips to plan. The conversation, food and company are most excellent.

Phillipa gets into the cheese

Mike has clearly had a few beers when he rashly offers to take Angela and Phillipa up Mt Matthews tomorrow. I volunteer to lift this onerous duty from his shoulders on the pretext that as trip leader Mike should really see the other punters safely out.

The hut is full but Toby, Mike and Angela are keen to tent so everyone gets a mattress, although I only last 'til midnight, when I figure the porch will be cooler and quieter.

With just three of us we are up and off by 7.30 and are a little quicker up the river. The slightly earlier start means that we are treated to the sun breaking onto the valley floor although we do note a few suspicious looking clouds lurking around the tops. Surely they will burn off as there's no rain forecast.

Morning in the Orongorongo River valley

The climb and the views are the same with a little more cloud to the north, but it is pleasing to know what's coming and see Angela and Phillipa enjoy the surprises. At 10am Phillipa elects to stay at the clearing soaking up the views while Angela and I push on for the top. There is increasing high cloud and more to the north but Phillipa has a coat and we leave her spread-eagled in the sun with agreements about panic times and what to do if we shouldn't turn up.

Above the Mukamuka Saddle.
McKerrow behind Angela, Wellington and the South Island beyond

Wellington emerging above the ridge to McKerrow 

Phillipa preparing for the afternoon

In the end I have hopelessly underestimated the pace of two compared to 10 people as we get to the top and back in about 2 hours (largely due to Angela's practice cycling up Wadestown Hill every day I suspect).

The clouds are gathering in the north; around the Aorangi Range in the east and spilling down the Wairarapa, so the views today are little more restricted but still stunning. At the top a bit before 11, we pause for a quick bite and photos but don't linger long. There is still no wind but the odd prickle of moisture in the air.

Angela blown away by the view

Day two - a little more cloud

Just off the top we are surprised to see a solo chap in a red bush shirt coming up - he's the only other person we have seen on this track since yesterday morning. We continue down but soon run into a French couple, then a mad German, then a large party that claims ownership of the mad German and includes a friend of Mike's, then the tail end of that party, and probably some other people I've forgotten. It's getting crowded.

We exchange hails with Phillipa who is stunned to see us at 12; almost two hours earlier than our panic time. Over lunch we compare notes and confirm that we all heard three rifle shots - hopefully well away from the busy track.

We scramble back down and along the river bed to arrive at the hut around 2.15. It has been immaculately cleaned so we tiptoe in, gather our packs and out again to avoid leaving any mess. The full pack is less fun than ambling about with a day pack but it's an easy trip out with pleasantly tired legs. We take Angela's favourite route which passes through a delightful grove of punga just before reaching the carpark before 4pm.

Mike informs me later that the other trekkers, after a superb tidy of the hut, headed out along the easy route rather than Cattle Ridge, so are all well home before the time we get out.

On Monday morning I look across the harbour from the train to see whether the top of Matthews is visible but it's shrouded in cloud. I have to say I have quite a soft spot for Mt Matthews now, I've only been up three times but have thoroughly enjoyed each experience and have seen it at its best.

Mt Matthews run

Orongorongo: Mt Matthews Run

Saturday 26 May, 2012
Solo run

Another solo trail run as part of preparation for the Abel Tasman track in September.  I keep picking hills you can't run up though!

Summary

Distance 21+ km(?); 4hr 25. Start elevation about 50m; maximum 941m. Forecast for sun but high cloud developed quickly. A cool northerly was only really noticeable near the top.

Depart Catchpool car park 07.50. Trot through Orongorongo track then up the river bed to the junction with Matthew’s stream at 08.45. Arrive at the top approx 10.15 and potter about for about 10 minutes (after a pause on the way up to overlook the saddle). Return the same way; Matthew’s junction at 11.15 and car park at 12.15.

The trip

The Park gates open at about 07.40 so the last minute getting ready stuff is done in the car while waiting for the ranger. A few cars have been in the park overnight but no sign of life until three older gents turn up to maintain stoat lines.

As expected, no other souls are to be seen until returning down Mt Matthews (one chap wandering up). There are a few signs of life on the way down the Orongorongo River and a few groups of people walking in along the Orongorongo track near midday. Some wheeled traffic has been up the river bed recently and a ute is parked up near Big Bend.

The Orongorongo track is easy going; repairs are underway but nothing tricky. The river bed is also good going along the vehicle tracks. The morning sun clears the hills in a few places shining the length of the valley and requiring the peak of the cap to be kept low.

Turning into Matthew’s stream the rocks are more jagged, and the stream is clearly moving things around pretty actively, so more care is required with footing. The route runs up the creek then departs to follow a track up the ridge, at exactly the point marked on the map. The track up is generally pretty easy to follow.

It’s basically a scramble straight up with a brief 30m down hill around 400m. After that there’s the turn off to South saddle (around 550M) which is also the route to the south coast down Mukamuka stream. Shortly after, the track breaks out of the bush giving good views over the saddle, down to the Coast and across ridges and hills towards Wellington.

The track skips along the ridge briefly then ducks back into forest and keeps climbing. It’s still a fair way to the top from here. The approach to the top is through forest and there are a few false alarms. Don’t get excited until the track has dropped off the back of the ridge and approaches the top from the South via a not so old slip which has thrown trees and rocks into a jumble which you have to scramble through.

The views are good. After the clearing above the saddle there isn’t a lot to see until a view of the Wairarapa explodes in your face. A window opens through the tress and suddenly there is light reflecting off the Ruamahanga River; Lake Wairarapa peering around a ridge and somewhere in the distance across the flats; Martinborough and the Eastern Hills. Further along, there are views of Lake Onoke and the Coast as well as back towards Wellington.

The top is marked by a short steel pole behind a fallen tree. Next to it is a geocache; it’s just tied to the tree with no real attempt to hide it. Mind you, I don't think many people would want to lug an ammo box back down with them.

After admiring the view, firing off a text or two and taking a few photos on the phone it’s time to follow the foot prints home. The down hill requires considerable care and attention to avoid catching a toe and pitching face first over a drop off.

A search and rescue team are in the car park and look to be heading out for some practice. I’m earlier than expected so they’re not for me.

Gear notes

Running in old cycle shorts, light merino top, off-road runners, cap, gloves at the start to maintain body temperature until warmed up. Rolled sleeves up and down depending on heat during the scramble up. Started to cool off at the top but not too bad. Camel back: full water, 1 squeeze gel, 1 gel tube, 2 OSM, balaclava, UnderArmour tights, gloves, jacket, 2nd light merino top, over trou, emergency kit, cellphone (good cover at top and probably on most of the higher parts).

Body notes

Took an easy pace from the start and maintained it reasonably well, even at the end. Started getting pretty tired towards the top and needed a few pauses. Return trip down was fine though the short uphill at around 400m showed the stamina had dropped right off. The legs were pretty tired by the bottom but kept ticking over down the valley after a couple of minutes rest at the junction. Started to get a bit crampy and slow on the up hills along the Orongorongo track. Kept a reasonable pace through to the car park although not much to come and go on by the end and wouldn’t have been able to lift the pace at all.

Eating and drinking

Ate an OSM on the way to the top (starting around 650m) and finished a gel tube on the return: starting at the junction and finishing it at the halfway bridge – felt that it was very much needed. Drank about a litre and a half throughout; this wasn’t enough.

Felt knackered and old for the rest of the day and slept like a log that night (a log that wakes up and whimpers every time it rolls over).

Useful Information

Watch the opening and closing times on the park gates. DoC time estimate on the website is one day for fit trampers and on the park notice board is 10 hours.

Map:
http://www.topomap.co.nz/NZTopoMap?v=2&ll=-41.35186,175.014353&z=14

DoC track description:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/wellington-kapiti/wellington/mt-matthews/

Geocache
http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_details.aspx?wp=GC1BKN4