The fabulous Tararua earthquake lake

Kaikoura has a dramatically changed landscape - new land ripped from the sea, hills reshaped and roads smashed. And the Tararuas have an earthquake lake. We think it was from the same earthquake but nobody is really sure. Whatever - it's our earthquake lake. Although some may rather uncharitably apply quotation marks and even call it an "earthquake" pond.

Ever since hearing about it, I've intended to get in and have a look. Not least because there is a beautiful looking spur visible from Bull Mound that runs down from the Beehives on the Southern Crossing. There are also a few spot-heights in the valley, and the river itself is probably worth a visit.

It's not the sort of place I want to go on my own with winter river flows so it's just been sitting quietly on the back burner annoying the hell out of me.

What:   Navigation trip to earthquake lake, visit upper Tauherenikau and knock off some spot heights
When:  12-13 January 2018
Who:     Solo
Where:  Southern Tararuas
Map:      NZ Topo map

Arrow indicates approx. location of the lake
Have left off most of the boring track bits

There are a few options for the weekend and I don't make up my mind until midday Friday - despite being packed. The support crew is nothing if not accommodating and agrees to an after work drop-off at Otaki Forks.

The trouble with being a bit disorganised is that you forget stuff. Arriving at the road end I discover it's my belt - a shoelace is called into service as an effective if not elegant solution. Later, I discover I also forgot my lunch cheese.  Fortunately my packing list ensured nothing important was neglected.

Repurposing a shoe lace

Posing for the camera - Judd Ridge to right

The plan is to get to Kime Hut in the dark. Departing at 7.20pm I reckon I'll be there before 11.

It's a warm and calm evening as I amble on up. There's not a lot to progress but I know that when you get to the clearing with a view of Kapanui's rounded silhouette it's about 10 minutes to Field Hut.
 
The hut is empty and the log book full. I squeeze a few words in amidst some gormless twat's cribbage score inside the back cover and head for Kime. At 8:55 the light is waning but it should be better on the tops. Rounding Table Top though, there's clag on the ridge above and the wind is coming up.

Sometimes the Tararuas will give you a bit of a slap to see if you're paying attention. The clag thickens just above Dennan (1200m) and although not cold, the rising wind and mist whips heat away. To keep myself amused I've been thinking about types of risk (actual, perceived, managed, residual, acceptable ...) but the drop in light and temperature (and my glasses misting up) prompts a bit of a pause and attention to the risks at hand.

Hunkering down, I crack out the light and review the map. The route is very familiar but the pair from Te Papa that died in a blizzard are always front of mind up here.

The top of the ridge is wide and rounded. There are snow stakes with reflectors and a pretty good ground trail but there are also false trails and lots of scope to wander in circles. The clag is thick and the poles are only visible from about 10 paces away - with about 30 paces between poles this means pausing at each, taking a bearing and following the trail that leads in that direction.

It's slow progress but goes smoothly. I'm not aware that I've reached the hut until I blunder into the sign. It's 10:20pm and there are about 10 punters already in their pits. I get myself sorted in the vestibule and creep in to claim a mattress.

One party is up at 5am and away before 6. I'm a bit more leisurely and get away about 7:15 before the large group that came through from Kaitoke yesterday.

Kime - claggy but good visibility

Half an hour later I'm on Mt Hector in the usual conditions.

Kime in its element

Descending from Hector along the Southern Crossing I count the lumps. The second beehive is in thick clag so I take a bearing off the ridge and hope I'm dropping on to the spur. All good - the spur has some rocky knobs that can be scrambled over or sidled and fairly soon I've dropped out of a cloud ceiling at 1400m (with eddies dropping it to 1300m). The spur ahead is revealed and distant slopes catch the sun.

Looking down spur from just below the Beehives

Looking back up the spur to the Beehives

Looking down to the knob on the spur at 1280m

There's a few rocky scrambles that require care but overall it's a delightful wander down with some ground trail in places.

There's a knob marked on the map at 1280m (a trail sidles to the south of the knob). The main spur continues but a substantive side spur splits off SSE - I suspect others follow the main spur although it looks very steep at the bottom.

My spur is clearly visible from above and there's even a faint marks in the herbs underfoot leading down. I pause to relate the terrain to the map and fix it in my head.

My spur

The spur is beautiful. Mossy goblin forest, with beech and leatherwood then beech, totara and other stuff ... and lots of moss. It is straight and well defined with a pretty good trail in places - probably mostly animal. The trail breaks up near the bottom where I arrive at a wee terrace to fossick about for a way down to the river. It has taken about 30 minutes to get from the top to the bushline and another 50 to the river.

My spur

This is the Tauherenikau River and I'm going to be in it for a few kilometers. Although a bit larger than I was expecting it is really just a large stream. I figure the flow is a bit above average summer flow.

It's generally pretty good going - the usual occasional scrambles around deep pools and over log jambs. The plan is to head down stream to approach the earthquake lake from above and hopefully find a way through or around.

It's less than 15 minutes from the spur to the lake. The water level is a bit lower than when the photo on Stuff was taken but otherwise looks the same - steep bushy sides, clear deep water and a jumble of rocks blocking the river.

The 'Earthquake' lake
The water used to be up to the base of the foreground rock

Up to my waist in it

The flow is gentle and the bottom clean. An exploratory wade determines that I won't get through with my pack on. By dint of feeling my way on tiptoe I get through with my pack on my shoulder and the water just below neck level. It would be a painful grovel to try to work through the bush.

The massive slip has blocked the river, with trees smashed in among the rocks. The river is slowly washing away its foot and the opposite bank but there is plenty more material to come down. Looking at the modest size of the 'lake' and the mass of the slip I don't think there is danger of a sudden break through, but with the unstable slip and huge gashes that falling rocks have ripped in the logs it's not a place I want to hang around.

The dam

Last view of the lake

Looking up the slip

 Below the slip the river tumbles down through rocks and a jumble of logs. It's taken 20 minutes to get through (and take photos) and I'm keen to get moving as I'm soaked and starting to shiver.

Log jumble below the slip

It's almost 2km and an hour to my next junction. The river tumbles through deep pools and an occasional slot but it's all navigable. At the intersection with the stream off Hell's Gate it's 10:55 - I stop for a bite and to plot the next move. The aim is to get to 892 and follow the spur down to 686. The slope up to 892 looks steep and little delineated.

At the first stream off the side of the side stream (following me?) I take a bearing and scramble up through the bush. It's the usual mucky lower level but pretty good going higher up. I note there are lot of Phyllocladus sp in the understory - I'm not sure which, but assume it is Mountain Toatoa. It's an interesting tree as the leaves aren't (they are flattened stems).

On the spur at 892 (11:55) I could imagine that people have been down this way but it's not that obvious and it is often necessary to take bearings as the spur top is wide in places and the shape not that obvious.

Typical bush on the spur

686 turns out to be on a wide flat top with an open under-story. Every now and then a passing patch of sun lances down to the floor - time for lunch.

From here there's little to choose between headings as the spur end is rounded. I opt for the most direct route down river.  It's easy going as there are an awful lot of animal trails.

This is the one of my assessment points - the river is likely to be much bigger and could be challenging - so much so that it could force a retreat back up a spur to Bull Mound. I peer through the trees to see what it looks like as I approach the bottom (1:14). It's noticeably larger but the valley floor much wider with a gentler slope so Plan A is go. The trick now is to count the side streams and not miss Josephson Creek.

The Tauherenikau looking much more river like

Pt 596

Rounding a corner a very steep knob swings into view - that's my next target.  The map shows some very closely spaced contours - so I study it carefully as I approach.

It's about 2pm as I clamber into the mouth of Josephson Creek to find a spot to start climbing the knob. Animal trails zigzag a way through the unclimable bits but it is hand-over-hand up through low scrub onto a sharp spur. Very steep but within my comfort zone.

Part way up I just about run into a deer rear. The stag is about 5m away and my 'Hey!' doesn't cause it to run away - it just turns to look, pauses and then ambles off. I hope they never forget they are vegetarians as it was a lot bigger than me and had the advantage from the terrain.

The top of the knob and a sit down. No view but there were some nice wee spots on the way up. I don't fancy down-climbing what I just came up so take a bearing south to swing around onto another spur where the bluffy bits seem to open out a little. It is a steep scramble through forest but again, animal trails help me avoid a creek slot and get me to the bottom.

The final crossing

This little spot-height excursion (exertion?) whilst fun has used an hour and there is now a 600m bash up to Bull Mound to contend with. I say good bye to the Tauherenikau and find a way into the bush.

Normally, the top of the spur provides the best travel but it is quite rounded and I can't see any evidence of people so I watch where the animals have been and follow, despite the somewhat meandering course. It seems to work well - particularly in the lower reaches where they have worn benches in the shingly floor just off the spur. However, I'm not feeling so sprightly and avoid looking at watch or altimeter.

After a long while, the slope lessens and rounds and the trees shorten and are interrupted by bands of scrub. Still no sign of human trails. Eventually the direction of the slope is barely perceptible and I break into a large clearing (huge) - this look familiar - the track must be around here somewhere.

It's nice to be out of the bush. I can see the Beehives and Mt Hector lurking in clag and cloud is piling in from the north west. It is sunny in the Wairarapa and calm here. Bull is a rounded top ridge below the bush line but with extensive boggy herb field and stunted bush. It's a good place to spot deer and I startle two today. My spur from this morning comes into view.

Hector in cloud, Beehives just to left
The knob at 1280m is at centre (faint 'A' in the middle of photo)
My spur is the left arm of it

North along Bull Mound, Tararua Peaks on horizon
Neill Ridge in middle distance

After hooking up with the Bull Mound track I wander along enjoying the openness. And thinking about the number of people likely to be at Alpha Hut. The plan is to exit via Quoin Ridge tomorrow, but the only piece of new territory that way is a tiny section from about the 700m contour down to Hutt Forks. I weigh it up and find it wanting - it can wait for another day.  If I put the hammer down along Marchant Ridge the road end should be achievable not too long after dark.

Fortunately Bull Mound has reception, although my cell phone is a little sulky about the moisture from the lake (despite a clip seal bag). A few texts to the support crew confirms the plan change. Right - it's about 5pm - I need a drink, a bite and a sit down then better get going.

The change in plan means that the water that would have seen me easily to Alpha is less than needed. A trickle draining the swampy hill crosses the track near 1107 and provides the solution - albeit, like Muldoon's view of Auckland in the '70's ... somewhat browner than I would wish.

DOC has done a great job of clearing the Marchant track - branches and deadfall have been cut through and vegetation cleared. A bit of mud but as near perfect as you could wish. I nurse the body along watching the time.

NZ bush will usually have a few blowflies hurtling about - most noticeably on hot days. There are a few about now and for some reason they find my head irresistible. Possibly all that delicious sweat - or it might be that the ripeness of my bush shirt is a carrion call they just can't ignore. Either way, the recurring pattern becomes the sound of a fly blundering past then a brief pause as it's tiny brain registers - 'Hellooo, what was that!' and it swings around to attempt a landing from behind. It's too hot to wear a hat and soon becomes infuriating. Must be tired.

Last of the sun catches 656 on the Dobson loop track (probably)

Finally, the long Marchant is over and the track turns sharply left to sidle and drop to the Dobson turn off (a lot of windfall cleaned out through here). Then the interminable saunter down from 650m to 500m. The evening sun slants in through the trees accentuating the greens and golds.

From the final descent at Pt 529 the track hasn't been cleared so there's a bit of gorse to contend with. It gets dimmer and dimmer but I'm determined not to get the headtorch out, just making it through the last forest section by Kiwi Ranch in the gloom. 9:20pm - and all milestones met.

Wrap up

A tiring day at 14 hours but very satisfying. The 'earthquake' 'lake' is hardly spectacular but is pretty much exactly what I anticipated. The level of the lake is likely to vary and I wouldn't rely on being able to wade it (it should be an easy pack-float though). It's great to have got to it and the upper Tauherenikau is well worth visiting.

The three spot-heights were a bonus that tested navigation and agility. As for the morning's spur - it's almost tempting to repeat that part of the trip. Plenty more spot-heights yet though.

Relatively few injuries but a full day afterwards making old man noises every time I moved. Kit all performed well with the exception of my 'new' gaiters which, at the current rate of depreciation, seem likely to last 5% as long as my last set.

Tauherenikau - West Bank

Between the long straight Marchant Ridge and the long straight Tauherenikau River 800 odd metres below, there's a south east facing valley wall. A couple of marked tracks plummet from the ridge (Block XVI and Omega) and there's a marked but fairly rough track down the true right - but most people hare along the ridge or valley bottom and pay little attention to the bits in between.  Ripe for a bit of an explore I reckon.

The weather forecast is wet and cold but not badly wet and cold so a good time to be fossicking around below the tops and (mostly) out of the rivers.  Rather than a random wander, the idea is to chart an efficient route and navigate to each of six spot heights marked on the Topo map.
 
What:  Navigation trip
Who:    Solo
Where: SE side of Marchant Ridge
When:   Weekend 2 September 2017
Why:     Nav practice - pick up some spot heights in interesting looking territory
Map:    

There's one van in the Kaitoke road end carpark, and one set of footprints in the mud heading up hill.  It's 0710, grey and drizzly - not likely that many others will be venturing out.

On the way up to Marchant ridge I pop off the track a couple of times to investigate some spot heights. 529 is hidden amidst pines, regenerating natives and some long overgrown vehicle tracks. 539 proves to be in a scrubby clearing with a broad flat top and probably reasonable access down to Dobson stream below, for those of a mind.

The track is muddy and slippery and the owner of the foot prints hasn't come this way. Climbing up to Marchant Ridge there is a lot of tree fall. It gets colder with altitude but fortunately not windy. There are no views to be had in the clag.

539 - moving on, nothing to see

Marchant Ridge is generally not talked about fondly - 'uphill in both directions' being the commonest reference. It's nice bush though and on a good day there are views spots. Today I'm paying more attention to the map as I need to find the right point to drop off and find my spur.

I get to the general area with a bit of reliance on the altimeter and take a bearing off track. This leads over lumpy mossy forest floor on the shoulders of 1060 and eventually safely down to where my spur forms - a little below the top necessitating some faith in the compass bearing.

It's a nicely turned spur that shadows the true right of the Omega Stream.  There are a couple of slightly tricky navigating moments on the way down but generally travel is good. There's a bit of ground trail but, judging by the amount of sign, probably more from deer than people.

The top of the spur is beautiful and mossy with occasional open patches. On a long flattish section approaching 853 a harsh screech and chatter announces a kaka in a nearby tree - it's my closest brush with them so far in the Tararuas. There's a reply from another tree and a bit of interchange before they both fly SE down valley.

The rest of the trip down is good apart from the steep lower slopes where the spur shape is less obvious.  At the bottom I find myself at the top of a scarp on the edge of an old terrace. There's a goat track down but a stumble at an inopportune time is a reminder to pay better attention to my footing - I reach the bottom safely but with some bruises as a memento.

So far so good. The next part of the plan is to head up valley then follow a spur up to pt 614 and return to the valley floor further up river via another spur.  There is precisely very little to be seen at 614, but time for a pause and a bite while I work the compass to pick up the slightly unformed spur down. The bush here is more mature then in some recent trips to the western part of the range - much nicer.

Back beside the river I can't find a track but the flats are easy travel and I pick up spot height 332 - or at least as near as makes no difference as it was pretty nondescript territory. 

With the tree fall and slightly slow navigation it's taken a little longer than expected but all according to plan.  The next stop is the foot of the Bull Mound track to see if my tree from a previous trip is still spanning the river.  Much to my delight it is, and as stable as ever - the river is a little high for my liking and this means I can walk (gingerly) across and stay the night in a comfortable hut rather than in a very small tent (aka the 'body bag') in the rain.

I pop up to Cone hut to make a note in the log book then head down river to Tutuwai hut for the night.  The going on the formed track is a lot quicker albeit very muddy.

It's about half past four and around 9 hours in the wet and cold so I'm thinking it's wishful thinking when I catch the tang of woodsmoke in the air some distance from the hut. It turns out to be real - Quaid is already in residence with a good fire going.  He's the owner of the foot prints this morning having come over the Puffer saddle with his dog and rifle. He's been ensconced for a good couple of hours.  With dry clothes I'm soon warming up by the fire.

We sit and chat for a bit - he's interested in where I've seen animal sign in my travels and I'm reminded how little I know about the behaviour of game animals. A thump from the varandah heralds two more trampers arrived from Kaitoke. A couple of Lower Hutt lads - proudly from NaeNae College (some years ago). They've brought in plenty of wine which they are happy to share while Quaid is content to polish off the tail end of a bottle of bourbon that some hunters had left him when they left by helicopter earlier in the day.

We sit around by candlelight (also left by the hunters) and yarn until after 10 - very late for a tramping night.

The next day is more of the same weatherwise.  I'm first out and head down valley - popping off the track regularly to see if there are any fordable sections of river.  I have a go at one point with the aid of a cut manuka pole someone has left, but get half way across and decide that at thigh deep and getting deeper the river is stronger than it looks and a strategic retreat is indicated.

I resign myself to travelling all the way down to the swing bridge and returning up river along the marked track on the true right.  It's pretty rough in places with some slips to work around and somewhat sporadic marking.  There are a lot of boggy sections and in one place I wander off track and find an old clearing with an ancient kettle and enamel pot. There's plenty of fresh pig sign on the flats.

I'm counting the streams to work out which ones are marked and which ones are just trickles swollen by rain. I'm pretty confident that I've reached Blue Rock Stream and cross to take a spur which rises sharply and steeply. Spot height 546, is also nondescript so I take a bearing and head off to follow another spur down - again mostly on animal trails. This deposits me on target near the mouth of Kotukutuku Stream.

There's still time left in the day so I head down river with the intention of reaching one last spot height for the day.  Crossing Boulder stream I miss the bottom of the spur so end up scrambling up a precipitous face to get onto the more gently shelving spur.  This climbs to a point where a very old cairn indicates people have been through before, although you wouldn't guess from the lack of ground trail. The spur drops to a saddle then climbs to a broad flat top.  It's cathedral like with magnificent old trees and a wide flat forest floor. It's also tricky to navigate - as I return from pt 586 I have to retrace my steps and start again when I'm a little too casual with my bearings and miss the saddle.

Back at the cairn I take a different spur down again. I'm not too fussed about sticking to it so just follow my nose and end up dropping down a very steep side spur to a bog among regrowth. A meandering course to avoid the supple jack eventually sees me back on the track.

The trip out is uneventful - foot prints on the track indicate that my hut companions are ahead and I meet one other tramper coming in.  It's another 9 hour day when I get to the car park a bit after 4.  A couple of cars are there including someone waiting for some runners coming through from Holdsworth.  Good on them - I'm off home for a good feed and a well earned sleep.

Kaitoke Waterworks to Mt Dick

Each week my list of must-visit-places seems to get longer, so the chance to string a few of them together can't be passed up. This weekend I'm planning to knock off four and still have time for dinner in Martinborough.

The candidates lined up are: the ridge running east above Phillips Stream from the Kaitoke Waterworks, the spur north from Marchant Ridge (1038) down to the Eastern Hutt River, the spur from Eastern Hutt River up to Alpha Hut, and finally the winding ridgelines from Waiohine Bridge to Mt Dick.

What:    Convoluted route to Carterton

Why:     Nav practice

Where:  Kaitoke, Marchant, Eastern Hutt, Bull Mound, Waiohine, Mt Dick

Who:     Solo

When:   4 February 2017

Map:     Map

At half past six the long suffering support crew has nobly foregone a warm bed to drop me at the Kaitoke Waterworks info shelter. She watches me trot off across the field towards the hills and heads home - no doubt thinking that the next thing she'll be hearing is a PLB call out for a broken leg in a creek somewhere.

I take the short route up the clay 4WD road. It climbs steeply for about half an hour to the top of the Norbet Track, where I start looking out for any signs of a route leading east along the ridge. I don't know if there is one but it looks like there should be.  There are some nice views back over the morning sun on the hills though.

Rearing to go

Kaitoke water works tucked below somewhere - Ridge track in the mid-ground

A few minutes after Norbert Track the road disappears into a tunnel of trees. About 20m in I think I can see a faint track on my right, and on a closer look there's some plastic tape on a tree. This works for me - I take a bearing from the map and duck in between the spindly trunks. There must have been a burn sometime in the past as the trees are spindly and close growing, but recolonising nicely.

Start of the ridge route - honestly!

It's quite a gentle ridgeline and the route is pretty easy to follow with intermittent markers. There are a few points where I follow off on a dud trail but it is quickly detected and sorted in each case. Occasionally there's an opening giving a view towards Wellington or up Quoin and Marchant Ridges. The day is promising to be a stunner, although there's a bit of clag lurking in the west. Further along the ridge the bush is more mature than I expect, and consequently quite good to walk through.

Quoin Ridge

Across Kaitoke to the Hutt Valley

Parts of the ridge are fairly wide and flat and it's easy to wander off line, including at 630 where I am starting to bowl off a spur into Phillips Stream, before realising I've missed the line to the next saddle. At 8.50am I'm in that saddle, where I leave the marked route to drop down a short slope into Phillips Stream and the foot of Marchant Ridge. I can't see any tracks up the ridge but the bush is fairly open and it's not a hard scramble up. A bit of a trail develops further up.

Before long the bush gives way to scrub (I assume the edge of the old burn) and more spectacular views. I have an unrivaled angle on the route I took a few weeks back from the Puffer Saddle, along the Pylon Track, and down a spur to Smith's Creek. Further along there is a similar perspective of the tricky spur down from Tauherenikau from the same trip. You make the most of days like this, to build up a better mental model of these hills.  

Looking south from Marchant Ridge to the spurs above Smith's Creek and the Pylon Track

Spur running down from Tauherenikau

Initially the scrub is easy to navigate - there is always a route of low resistance to be found if you cast about. This doesn't last and it takes an awfully long time to struggle up to 967 and connect with the marked Ridge Track. There are animal tracks all over the place, but old logs and thick scrub seem to collaborate to frustrate progress. It's 10:40am when I finally break onto the track after almost 4 hours on the go.

Unnamed stream off Marchant

Marchant Ridge is easily familiar. I wander along glancing across to the Tauherenikau Ridge on the right and Quoin on the left. After the track enters the bush again I start looking for signs of a route to my spur. I don't see anything so eventually just take a bearing and strike across the flat topped ridge. It feels like I'm going nowhere in particular but eventually a spur starts to form. There's still no foot trail. Then I spot a wee bit of red insulation tape on a tree. There are very few markers on the way down but the spur is mostly pretty well formed - the foot trail not so much. Towards the bottom I'm pretty sure I've wandered off the old trail but don't have any problems working my way down to the stream.

About 1210 I cross the creek and head up the flats towards the river. The navigational challenge shifts - now I need to keep an eye on the rate of progress up river, count off the tributaries and keep an eye out for the specific junction that marks my next spur.

First view of the Eastern Hutt River

It's hot and sunny in the valley bottom, so it's not too much hardship to get wet feet with the frequent river crossings that are required. I have to admit that the thought crosses my mind as to how long it will be before some of the water that is flowing around and through my boots will be coming out of peoples' taps in Wellington.

Another side stream

The river is swift, clear and clean, and there is little sign that people travel this way, although the bush on the occasional terrace is easy to navigate. It's one of those places that is an undeniable pleasure to travel but you're happy not to camp as it would be so easily spoiled.

Despite mild concerns that I might miss the junction, after about an hours travel upstream it is pretty obvious. The side stream is sizable and it's easy to take a bearing on the line of the river. The spot is idyllic.

The junction

There's a dense wee copse of trees growing on the spit but a couple of meters up the main river there is an easy route into the bush. The spur starts immediately with a clear trail.

A couple of bugs locked in mortal combat catch my eye. They seem to be fighting to the death over a hole in the track. It's one of those little things that distracts you and I watch for quite a while until one is seen off, apparently none the worse for wear. The victor inspects the hole and peace is restored. However this isn't getting me any closer to the bushline 700m above.

I work my way up without seeing much in the way of markers. There are a few riflemans about and I hear the odd shining cuckoo. The shape of the spur comes and goes. A steep eroding creek appears on the left, so I follow it up for a bit but figure I need to be further across so head back around the spur.

The Tararua Footprints page records this route but is somewhat vague about the top, merely noting that a notch develops in the east of the spur towards the top and you work your way right and up. No indication of the elevation. 

There's a number of possible trails in the bush but in the end I find myself fighting up through steep scrubby bush eventually to emerge on the tops about 50 meters from the Southern Crossing Track. It's about 2 hours since I arrived at the junction far below, so not speedy progress. 

Marchant Ridge

This is the bushline on Alpha and today it marks the boundary between wind and clag in the west, and summer in the east. The spur I've come up is out of sight, as is the valley floor, but I can see Marchant Ridge in all it's glory and the line of the spur I came down. Five minutes later an empty Alpha Hut provides shelter from the wind.

I take a good long break to fill in the hut book, have a bite and drink, and a wee snooze with head down on the table. It's a good 40 minutes (3.50ish) before I'm underway again with coat on against the cool air.

This is one of the classic and well traveled Tararua tracks - it is wide and solid through open, mossy bush - and very pleasant walking as the clag drops behind and the sun comes through. A party of three I meet, shortly after leaving the hut, are the first people I've seen all day. We don't stop and chat, although I assume they are staying at Alpha for the night.

I'm sort of tired so the up hill bits are slowish, but fortunately there's a whole lot of down hill before Cone Hut. From the bottom of Hells Gate it's a short climb to the well marked junction to the Bull Mound Track.

Old school signs

The track is pretty flat at around 1100m and there are great views to be had. Of particular interest is a well shaped spur running from the Tauherenikau up into the clag; according to the map, all the way to the Beehives on the Southern Crossing. Another addition to the 'must do' list.

East from the Bull Mound Track. Clag on the main range and a very interesting ridge almost hidden towards the right

The tops along to Bull Mound have large patches of boggy herb land with scrubby margins. It's relatively dry today. Another interesting looking spur appears that runs north from Bull Mound and also slips onto the 'must do' list.

South from the Bull Mound Ridge

Emerging onto the final clearing, I surprise three deer about 100 m away they pause to check me out then slip into the bush.

Across towards Mt Reeves

There are a few final views down the Tauherenikau Valley before the bush closes over head and the afternoon sun is replaced with dappled light under beech. The track is good and it is only my protesting knees that slow the downhill progress.

It's unlikely that I will come across people heading up to Alpha at this time of day on this track, so I get quite a start when I blunder into two chaps sitting in the moss. They are intriguing specimens; their packs have things spilling out and hanging off and they are hardly dressed for tramping. The usual conversation elicits slightly odd responses - they don't seem to have a map and don't seem to have much idea about the terrain they are heading into. They are about 200m from the valley floor with 500m to go, yet have taken an hour to get this far and think they are near the top. They do however have a tent, and I make it very clear that they are likely to be needing it tonight. While we are talking another couple of chaps turn up - they are heading to Alpha and seem likely to make it. They are thinking of heading down Quoin Ridge tomorrow and ask a lot of questions, also exhibiting a bit less preparation than I would be comfortable with.

I find out that the river is up but that there is fallen tree that spans the torrent. This is a bit of a relief. When I reach the bottom just after 6.15 it is better than I could have hoped. The river is high enough that I would be thinking carefully about crossing but the fallen tree spans the river efficiently and right at the bottom of the track. It's solid and large - I clamber on and walk across, pausing briefly where there is a hand hold for a photo.

Natural bridge

Looking back at the bridge - log on left has come down the river

 Cone hut

Across the river is the helicopter pad then a short walk to Cone Hut, arriving at 6.25, just under 12 hours after leaving Kaitoke.  The place is like Victoria Station: there's a couple of trampers and two hunters staying for the night (the hunters are just heading out for an evening shoot) and another couple just passing through. I recognise Harriett and we exchange intentions. They are heading up to Alpha via Bull Mound so I can tell them about the other parties likely to be at the hut and the two chaps that are probably not. She is intending to come around to Hector and down Winchcombe/Neil to Walls Whare tomorrow. The trip in reverse that saw two trampers die on the tops not so long back.

I grab a bunk and shortly after a party of three from Tararua Tramping Club turn up. They are planning a fascinating route tomorrow - up to Hells Gate, drop into the upper Tauherenikau  catchment and follow the tortuous river route back to the hut. I am frankly envious but wouldn't do it on my own. They are rightly concerned about the height of the river but have some bale out options.

Another party of four turns up but take one look at the numbers and keep on going to Tutawai.

The TTC party put up tents on the flats but socialise at the hut so there is ample chance to share notes about various routes and trips. While we are talking two more people turn up. It's the two chaps from up the hill. They are not having a great time - reading between the lines I suspect that they had not made it much further up the hill when Harriett found them and probably was pretty direct in advising that they should back track. They are pretty confused about their intentions so I suggest they pitch camp and re-evaluate in the morning. They shamble off to do just that.

In due course the hunters return and there's good amount of yarning to be had into the evening. The only fly in the ointment is that there are two dogs in a very small hut that night - I bite my tongue but seriously - it's almost as antisocial as smoking. It's a fairly disrupted sleep but warm and still.

The hunters stayed up with a few drinks and don't seem to be keen on a dawn shoot so I am first up. Over breakfast there is one of those moments that high lights a hunter/tramper difference; they notice my penny stove and compare the weight to their large bench-top primus. At a guess, their kit all up weighs three times mine.

The two chaps turn up intending to leave a whole bundle of gear before they walk out - even their tent. They are sick of their heavy packs and just want to be home. They don't get the response they expect - the chap from the hut chews them out about even thinking about leaving food and rubbish that no-one will eat, will attract rats, and will have to be carried out by someone else. I feel sorry for them - with a bit of advice they would have chosen a more doable route, carried more sensible kit and had a great time. I doubt they will be back in the bush again or have nice things to say about trampers - the interaction was pretty unproductive. As the chaps wife points out: 'They're just going to dump it all in the bush around the corner.'

Meanwhile, the hunters are thinking of heading up river - I suggest the down river true right flats might be a better prospect and easier travel. They head off and before long a shot echoes up the valley.

It's a leisurely 8.10am when I head out. This is a much traveled route - today it's 8.41 where the ridge route heads south towards Reeves and 9.37 at the Waiohine Bridge. On the way two couples and two singles pass on their way in. Busy.


Waiohine road end to Mt Dick

At the Waiohine Road end I intend to head into the bush, then up the spur on the true right of Fern Stream (Map). This is the stream that you can see as a waterfall from the bridge - my route crosses it on the terrace to reach the spur. I wander around to find a way into the bush, thrash around in supple jack, stumble across the water supply source and finally cross the stream onto the spur.

It's steep and scrambly. There is a little bit of trail and a very old barbed wire fence. The map shows that the spur flattens at 290m but it doesn't. I start to get a bit suspicious, but up is good, so carry on.

 Barbed wire fence going through a beech tree

Top of the spur

When the spur finally starts leveling out I stop to sweat and study the map and compass. Sure enough - I soon work out that I crossed one tributary of the stream and headed up a different spur. This just means a slightly different start on the route to Mt Dick. The going is hot but not too bad up to 545 by 11am.  There are signs of nearby pine plantation and a wee clearing at the top.

I take a bearing and head NE along the ridge. People have been this way and the ridge is well defined - it's pretty straight forward getting through to 632 - 45 minutes later (and back on my planned route). It's a little hard working out where the top is, and I can't see a ground trail turning off, but with a bit of compass and map work I find a way down into the saddle then climb up to 582 (1225). The ground trail is a bit stronger now.  I text my position thinking that it won't be long now and confirm that the support team are on their way.

The evocatively named 582

Holy Totara!

The ground trail is solid and the ridge top flat. I trot along until the track breaks out of the bush and I can finally see Mt Dick - it doesn't look right - it appears that I have overshot. I back track, and recheck the map, compass and altimeter. It's one of those moments when things just won't tally and I can't get a view that provides a clue. I sit down and consider the information available. Eventually
I conclude that I'm wrong about Mt Dick and rebacktrack (?). The compass and altimeter say I'm on track but my brain isn't convinced. The track starts a descent that could be into the correct saddle or off the wrong spur. Ah well - let's see where this goes.

The track suddenly pops into a clearing in the saddle and onto an old bulldozed track (shown on the topo map). It is wide, reasonably clear of scrub and takes a gentle angle upwards to drop me on a gravel road corner shortly after 1.30.

I call the support team who turn out to be up the road a bit but the road is completely blocked off. The map clearly marks where to access the ridge network on a corner a short way past (and below) Mt Dick - but it is not accessible by car beyond Mt Dick.

Sunny day in the Wairarapa

The support team wave from above the road block

Hot and bothered but no longer geographically confused

It took something under four hours to get through from the Waiohine Road end to Mt Dick. There was some quite good ground trail but also a number of places where a bit of navigation was required. A usefully challenging little route and a salient reminder about paying attention.

After all that there's plenty of time for a spruce up, late lunch, lots of hydration then a very good dinner at Pinocchio's in Martinborough.