Each week my list of must-visit-places seems to get longer, so the chance to string a few of them together can't be passed up. This weekend I'm planning to knock off four and still have time for dinner in Martinborough.
The candidates lined up are: the ridge running east above Phillips Stream from the Kaitoke Waterworks, the spur north from Marchant Ridge (1038) down to the Eastern Hutt River, the spur from Eastern Hutt River up to Alpha Hut, and finally the winding ridgelines from Waiohine Bridge to Mt Dick.
What: Convoluted route to Carterton
Why: Nav practice
Where: Kaitoke, Marchant, Eastern Hutt, Bull Mound, Waiohine, Mt Dick
Who: Solo
When: 4 February 2017
At half past six the long suffering support crew has nobly foregone a warm bed to drop me at the Kaitoke Waterworks info shelter. She watches me trot off across the field towards the hills and heads home - no doubt thinking that the next thing she'll be hearing is a PLB call out for a broken leg in a creek somewhere.
I take the short route up the clay 4WD road. It climbs steeply for about half an hour to the top of the Norbet Track, where I start looking out for any signs of a route leading east along the ridge. I don't know if there is one but it looks like there should be. There are some nice views back over the morning sun on the hills though.
 |
| Rearing to go |
 |
| Kaitoke water works tucked below somewhere - Ridge track in the mid-ground |
A few minutes after Norbert Track the road disappears into a tunnel of trees. About 20m in I think I can see a faint track on my right, and on a closer look there's some plastic tape on a tree. This works for me - I take a bearing from the map and duck in between the spindly trunks. There must have been a burn sometime in the past as the trees are spindly and close growing, but recolonising nicely.
 |
| Start of the ridge route - honestly! |
It's quite a gentle ridgeline and the route is pretty easy to follow with intermittent markers. There are a few points where I follow off on a dud trail but it is quickly detected and sorted in each case. Occasionally there's an opening giving a view towards Wellington or up Quoin and Marchant Ridges. The day is promising to be a stunner, although there's a bit of clag lurking in the west. Further along the ridge the bush is more mature than I expect, and consequently quite good to walk through.
 |
| Quoin Ridge |
 |
| Across Kaitoke to the Hutt Valley |
Parts of the ridge are fairly wide and flat and it's easy to wander off line, including at 630 where I am starting to bowl off a spur into Phillips Stream, before realising I've missed the line to the next saddle. At 8.50am I'm in that saddle, where I leave the marked route to drop down a short slope into Phillips Stream and the foot of Marchant Ridge. I can't see any tracks up the ridge but the bush is fairly open and it's not a hard scramble up. A bit of a trail develops further up.
Before long the bush gives way to scrub (I assume the edge of the old burn) and more spectacular views. I have an unrivaled angle on the route I took a
few weeks back from the Puffer Saddle, along the Pylon Track, and down a spur to Smith's Creek. Further along there is a similar perspective of the tricky spur down from Tauherenikau from the same trip. You make the most of days like this, to build up a better mental model of these hills.
 |
| Looking south from Marchant Ridge to the spurs above Smith's Creek and the Pylon Track |
 |
| Spur running down from Tauherenikau |
Initially the scrub is easy to navigate - there is always a route of low resistance to be found if you cast about. This doesn't last and it takes an awfully long time to struggle up to 967 and connect with the marked Ridge Track. There are animal tracks all over the place, but old logs and thick scrub seem to collaborate to frustrate progress. It's 10:40am when I finally break onto the track after almost 4 hours on the go.
 |
| Unnamed stream off Marchant |
Marchant Ridge is easily familiar. I wander along glancing across to the Tauherenikau Ridge on the right and Quoin on the left. After the track enters the bush again I start looking for signs of a route to my spur. I don't see anything so eventually just take a bearing and strike across the flat topped ridge. It feels like I'm going nowhere in particular but eventually a spur starts to form. There's still no foot trail. Then I spot a wee bit of red insulation tape on a tree. There are very few markers on the way down but the spur is mostly pretty well formed - the foot trail not so much. Towards the bottom I'm pretty sure I've wandered off the old trail but don't have any problems working my way down to the stream.
About 1210 I cross the creek and head up the flats towards the river. The navigational challenge shifts - now I need to keep an eye on the rate of progress up river, count off the tributaries and keep an eye out for the specific junction that marks my next spur.
 |
| First view of the Eastern Hutt River |
It's hot and sunny in the valley bottom, so it's not too much hardship to get wet feet with the frequent river crossings that are required. I have to admit that the thought crosses my mind as to how long it will be before some of the water that is flowing around and through my boots will be coming out of peoples' taps in Wellington.
 |
| Another side stream |
The river is swift, clear and clean, and there is little sign that people travel this way, although the bush on the occasional terrace is easy to navigate. It's one of those places that is an undeniable pleasure to travel but you're happy not to camp as it would be so easily spoiled.
Despite mild concerns that I might miss the junction, after about an hours travel upstream it is pretty obvious. The side stream is sizable and it's easy to take a bearing on the line of the river. The spot is idyllic.
 |
| The junction |
There's a dense wee copse of trees growing on the spit but a couple of meters up the main river there is an easy route into the bush. The spur starts immediately with a clear trail.
A couple of bugs locked in mortal combat catch my eye. They seem to be fighting to the death over a hole in the track. It's one of those little things that distracts you and I watch for quite a while until one is seen off, apparently none the worse for wear. The victor inspects the hole and peace is restored. However this isn't getting me any closer to the bushline 700m above.
I work my way up without seeing much in the way of markers. There are a few riflemans about and I hear the odd shining cuckoo. The shape of the spur comes and goes. A steep eroding creek appears on the left, so I follow it up for a bit but figure I need to be further across so head back around the spur.
The Tararua Footprints page records this route but is somewhat vague about the top, merely noting that a notch develops in the east of the spur towards the top and you work your way right and up. No indication of the elevation.
There's a number of possible trails in the bush but in the end I find myself fighting up through steep scrubby bush eventually to emerge on the tops about 50 meters from the Southern Crossing Track. It's about 2 hours since I arrived at the junction far below, so not speedy progress.
 |
| Marchant Ridge |
This is the bushline on Alpha and today it marks the boundary between wind and clag in the west, and summer in the east. The spur I've come up is out of sight, as is the valley floor, but I can see Marchant Ridge in all it's glory and the line of the spur I came down. Five minutes later an empty Alpha Hut provides shelter from the wind.
I take a good long break to fill in the hut book, have a bite and drink, and a wee snooze with head down on the table. It's a good 40 minutes (3.50ish) before I'm underway again with coat on against the cool air.
This is one of the classic and well traveled Tararua tracks - it is wide and solid through open, mossy bush - and very pleasant walking as the clag drops behind and the sun comes through. A party of three I meet, shortly after leaving the hut, are the first people I've seen all day. We don't stop and chat, although I assume they are staying at Alpha for the night.
I'm sort of tired so the up hill bits are slowish, but fortunately there's a whole lot of down hill before Cone Hut. From the bottom of Hells Gate it's a short climb to the well marked junction to the Bull Mound Track.
 |
| Old school signs |
The track is pretty flat at around 1100m and there are great views to be had. Of particular interest is a well shaped spur running from the Tauherenikau up into the clag; according to the map, all the way to the Beehives on the Southern Crossing. Another addition to the 'must do' list.
 |
| East from the Bull Mound Track. Clag on the main range and a very interesting ridge almost hidden towards the right |
The tops along to Bull Mound have large patches of boggy herb land with scrubby margins. It's relatively dry today. Another interesting looking spur appears that runs north from Bull Mound and also slips onto the 'must do' list.
 |
| South from the Bull Mound Ridge |
Emerging onto the final clearing, I surprise three deer about 100 m away they pause to check me out then slip into the bush.
 |
| Across towards Mt Reeves |
There are a few final views down the Tauherenikau Valley before the bush closes over head and the afternoon sun is replaced with dappled light under beech. The track is good and it is only my protesting knees that slow the downhill progress.
It's unlikely that I will come across people heading up to Alpha at this time of day on this track, so I get quite a start when I blunder into two chaps sitting in the moss. They are intriguing specimens; their packs have things spilling out and hanging off and they are hardly dressed for tramping. The usual conversation elicits slightly odd responses - they don't seem to have a map and don't seem to have much idea about the terrain they are heading into. They are about 200m from the valley floor with 500m to go, yet have taken an hour to get this far and think they are near the top. They do however have a tent, and I make it very clear that they are likely to be needing it tonight. While we are talking another couple of chaps turn up - they are heading to Alpha and seem likely to make it. They are thinking of heading down Quoin Ridge tomorrow and ask a lot of questions, also exhibiting a bit less preparation than I would be comfortable with.
I find out that the river is up but that there is fallen tree that spans the torrent. This is a bit of a relief. When I reach the bottom just after 6.15 it is better than I could have hoped. The river is high enough that I would be thinking carefully about crossing but the fallen tree spans the river efficiently and right at the bottom of the track. It's solid and large - I clamber on and walk across, pausing briefly where there is a hand hold for a photo.
 |
| Natural bridge |
 |
| Looking back at the bridge - log on left has come down the river |
 |
| Cone hut |
Across the river is the helicopter pad then a short walk to Cone Hut, arriving at 6.25, just under 12 hours after leaving Kaitoke. The place is like Victoria Station: there's a couple of trampers and two hunters staying for the night (the hunters are just heading out for an evening shoot) and another couple just passing through. I recognise Harriett and we exchange intentions. They are heading up to Alpha via Bull Mound so I can tell them about the other parties likely to be at the hut and the two chaps that are probably not. She is intending to come around to Hector and down Winchcombe/Neil to Walls Whare tomorrow. The trip in reverse that saw two trampers die on the tops not so long back.
I grab a bunk and shortly after a party of three from Tararua Tramping Club turn up. They are planning a fascinating route tomorrow - up to Hells Gate, drop into the upper Tauherenikau catchment and follow the tortuous river route back to the hut. I am frankly envious but wouldn't do it on my own. They are rightly concerned about the height of the river but have some bale out options.
Another party of four turns up but take one look at the numbers and keep on going to Tutawai.
The TTC party put up tents on the flats but socialise at the hut so there is ample chance to share notes about various routes and trips. While we are talking two more people turn up. It's the two chaps from up the hill. They are not having a great time - reading between the lines I suspect that they had not made it much further up the hill when Harriett found them and probably was pretty direct in advising that they should back track. They are pretty confused about their intentions so I suggest they pitch camp and re-evaluate in the morning. They shamble off to do just that.
In due course the hunters return and there's good amount of yarning to be had into the evening. The only fly in the ointment is that there are two dogs in a very small hut that night - I bite my tongue but seriously - it's almost as antisocial as smoking. It's a fairly disrupted sleep but warm and still.
The hunters stayed up with a few drinks and don't seem to be keen on a dawn shoot so I am first up. Over breakfast there is one of those moments that high lights a hunter/tramper difference; they notice my penny stove and compare the weight to their large bench-top primus. At a guess, their kit all up weighs three times mine.
The two chaps turn up intending to leave a whole bundle of gear before they walk out - even their tent. They are sick of their heavy packs and just want to be home. They don't get the response they expect - the chap from the hut chews them out about even thinking about leaving food and rubbish that no-one will eat, will attract rats, and will have to be carried out by someone else. I feel sorry for them - with a bit of advice they would have chosen a more doable route, carried more sensible kit and had a great time. I doubt they will be back in the bush again or have nice things to say about trampers - the interaction was pretty unproductive. As the chaps wife points out: 'They're just going to dump it all in the bush around the corner.'
Meanwhile, the hunters are thinking of heading up river - I suggest the down river true right flats might be a better prospect and easier travel. They head off and before long a shot echoes up the valley.
It's a leisurely 8.10am when I head out. This is a much traveled route - today it's 8.41 where the ridge route heads south towards Reeves and 9.37 at the Waiohine Bridge. On the way two couples and two singles pass on their way in. Busy.
Waiohine road end to Mt Dick
At the Waiohine Road end I intend to head into the bush, then up the spur on the true right of Fern Stream (
Map). This is the stream that you can see as a waterfall from the bridge - my route crosses it on the terrace to reach the spur. I wander around to find a way into the bush, thrash around in supple jack, stumble across the water supply source and finally cross the stream onto the spur.
It's steep and scrambly. There is a little bit of trail and a very old barbed wire fence. The map shows that the spur flattens at 290m but it doesn't. I start to get a bit suspicious, but up is good, so carry on.
 |
| Barbed wire fence going through a beech tree |
 |
| Top of the spur |
When the spur finally starts leveling out I stop to sweat and study the map and compass. Sure enough - I soon work out that I crossed one tributary of the stream and headed up a different spur. This just means a slightly different start on the route to Mt Dick. The going is hot but not too bad up to 545 by 11am. There are signs of nearby pine plantation and a wee clearing at the top.
I take a bearing and head NE along the ridge. People have been this way and the ridge is well defined - it's pretty straight forward getting through to 632 - 45 minutes later (and back on my planned route). It's a little hard working out where the top is, and I can't see a ground trail turning off, but with a bit of compass and map work I find a way down into the saddle then climb up to 582 (1225). The ground trail is a bit stronger now. I text my position thinking that it won't be long now and confirm that the support team are on their way.
 |
| The evocatively named 582 |
 |
| Holy Totara! |
The ground trail is solid and the ridge top flat. I trot along until the track breaks out of the bush and I can finally see Mt Dick - it doesn't look right - it appears that I have overshot. I back track, and recheck the map, compass and altimeter. It's one of those moments when things just won't tally and I can't get a view that provides a clue. I sit down and consider the information available. Eventually
I conclude that I'm wrong about Mt Dick and rebacktrack (?). The compass and altimeter say I'm on track but my brain isn't convinced. The track starts a descent that could be into the correct saddle or off the wrong spur. Ah well - let's see where this goes.
The track suddenly pops into a clearing in the saddle and onto an old bulldozed track (shown on the topo map). It is wide, reasonably clear of scrub and takes a gentle angle upwards to drop me on a gravel road corner shortly after 1.30.
I call the support team who turn out to be up the road a bit but the road is completely blocked off. The map clearly marks where to access the ridge network on a corner a short way past (and below) Mt Dick - but it is not accessible by car beyond Mt Dick.
 |
| Sunny day in the Wairarapa |
 |
| The support team wave from above the road block |
 |
| Hot and bothered but no longer geographically confused |
It took something under four hours to get through from the Waiohine Road end to Mt Dick. There was some quite good ground trail but also a number of places where a bit of navigation was required. A usefully challenging little route and a salient reminder about paying attention.
After all that there's plenty of time for a spruce up, late lunch, lots of hydration then a very good dinner at Pinocchio's in Martinborough.
