This is a Ruahine trip from a couple of years back - in the times before I got sucked into working in the great COVID machine. There are a few others on the drawing board from around that time that I haven't quite got around to tidying up ...
A three day weekend - a chance to get across the Ruahine range into a couple of huts that are a bit tricky to knock off in a weekend with access restrictions.
The forecast isn't great. It's been a bit cold so there could be snow around and the weather is supposed to deteriorate from Saturday afternoon.
The plan is to head up the Sunrise track to Top Maropea Hut, drop west to cross a stream valley and climb onto the long ridge north from Te Atuaoparapara, join the track to drop to Wakelings Hut, pop over Rongotea to Crow Hut, clamber onto the Hikurangi Range to visit McKinnon Hut, and bash down a spur to the Kauwhatau River. I had intended to then climb onto and follow the ridge north to Rangioteatua but elected instead to follow the river up to Waterfall Hut then up to Rangioteatua via Rangi Saddle. A final change to the plan was an exit via Waipawa saddle instead of over Three Johns.
What: Navigation and hut bagging
Where: Ruahine Range - in at Sunrise road end
When: 12-14 September 2020
Who: Solo
As soon as it's light I can see that the Tararua Range has a solid dusting of snow and before long the Ruahine Range has, if anything, more. Coming up Wakarara Road it soon becomes apparent that it's right down to the foothill paddocks. It's overcast but there's clear skies over the range.
At the first gate I see a quad coming and hold the gate, then take turns through the next two. There's a few lambs about so I take it easy to the road end past the first carpark. The snow isn't visible from here and the warm sun and calm air promise a pleasant day as I get away about 8.40.
This time I turn right at the first junction to follow around the other leg of the swamp loop - it's pretty bush and this time I get to see some different info boards.
About 25 minutes from the car the track joins the main Sunrise Hut track near Triple X Hut - a few minutes further is the other end of the Swamp Loop.
Within half an hour (near junction of track to Waipawa Forks Hut) there's snow on the foliage and steady dripping from above.
Within another half hour there's snow on the ground under the canopy and two sets of footprints preceding me up the hill. I notice red/orange liquid sprinkling the snow and figure someone was spilling their energy drink, but later in the trip see the same thing with just animal prints around - I presume scent marking by some mammal or other.
The snow is soon thick on the foliage and there's a real winter wonderland feel with the blue sky above. Before long, a familiar corner with a window out to the hazy plains signals it's not far to the hut.
About an hour forty from the car I scrunch into the hut clearing. The hut is looking like a ski lodge but the view is a bit claggy.
A couple from Wellington are just about to head up towards Te Atuaoparapara and over to Waikamaka Hut. We exchange notes on the route which could be a bit of fun in snow and clag - they have the gear though and have done their research. They head on up as I pop in to fill in the log.
Behind the hut the track pops out on the ridge edge. The clag turns out to be just holding in the lee of the ridge and the view of the ridge circling up to Te Atuaoparapara is clear.
I catch up with the couple and take the lead, plugging through the knee deep snow. Soft enough to not need crampons fortunately.
Armstrong Saddle about 10.50, then up and along to the knob where my track leaves the ridge to head north - about 15 minutes later. I carve a smiley face in the snow for the couple and make my way carefully through deeper snow descending over wee knobs to the bushline. There's plenty of tracks in the snow - I suspect hares but don't know enough to be sure.
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Up towards Te Atuaoparpara
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The snow lies deep compared with the ridge top - possibly it was protected from the southerly and settled without being blown away. Once below the bushline the sun is doing a good job of melting the snow on the beech trees, resulting in a steady rain and a slushy track.
At 11.30 Top Maropea Hut is cheerful in its snow hat, looking across a snowy yard towards the sunny horizon. I pause for 10 minutes to fill in the log and have a bite.
The track drops further from the hut to a saddle where it dives right for a steep drop to the stream. I leave it at this point to follow a little ways further up and along the ridge. I see a couple of bits of old tape but no foot trail in the snow so pick a random spot and start dropping west through snowy cutty grass.
There's supposed to be a bit of a spur to follow - I don't find it and suspect I've drifted too far north. It's not an issue though until I find myself a little bluffed at the bottom. A bit of scrambling and, about 20 minutes after leaving the ridge I'm in a stream. It's catching the sun at the moment but the odd shady bend still has a bit of settled snow.
10 minutes later, about 12.30, I've reached the true left sidestream that I'm aiming for and only one foot is a bit damp. The wind is cool but the sun is out so I have a break for lunch and to dry a little.
I've heard there's a route up the spur here but from the start you wouldn't guess it. It's a bit mucky underfoot with bushlawyer - I wonder if it pays to either head down stream a little further or even up the side creek a bit. Before long however, the odd old marker turns up. I grind up slowly and back into a snowy understory.
It takes a bit over 50 minutes to get to the ridge where I can see over the next valley (Waikamaka) to Rongotea with a sprinkling of dandruff. Originally I had thought I might get over there today but I'm somewhat tired from contending with snow and, although I tell myself I'll decide when I get down to Wakelings Hut, the traitorous back of my mind is already redoing the sums for the weekend.
The ridge top is much as I remember it - except with snow. The tight saplings are delighted to release their load as I squeeze through and the cutty grass hides little hollows for my feet to slip into.
But more to the point - it feels like I have got in towards the middle of the range and away from the tracks most travelled. With the sun filtering through the trees it's a good spot to be.
It takes about an hour ten to travel a little over 2km along the ridge to meet the track between Maropea Forks and Wakelings Huts. I have to do a wee bit of navigation where the ridge veers north west and you have to drop away from what feels like the main line.
On the track it feels good to be able to swing the legs freely again, albeit briefly before diving steeply down to the river. By the time I reach the bottom I'm certain I'll be stopping at Wakelings tonight.
As I step out off the bush beside the river the whistle of a whio indicates I've been spotted. A couple are feeding 30m downstream and make it clear that they're keeping an eye on me.
There sun is on the spur above the hut but there's a patch of snow on the river bank where the sun clearly don't shine. Despite the cold I decide to doff socks and boots for the crossing. It's about 3.10 when I get to the hut with an armload of firewood so plenty of daylight to get settled in.
The hut book confirms that a track crew have been through recently to clear the track up to Rongotea. They have also cut and stacked firewood. I drag in some more rounds and split a few with the intention of having a fire to dry damp clothes and boots.
Getting the open fire going and tending the drying clothes takes up a fair chunk of the evening. It's a calm and starry night outside. Inside, the hut fills with smoke until I open a window.
It has clagged over by morning but it's calm in the valley. I drag on mostly not damp clothes and get away by 6.30 - I'll be sleeping out in the rain tonight if I don't keep moving.
The spur starts immediately by the hut. The track party have done a good job and I knuckle down for a slow but steady climb.
As yesterday - there is soon snow under the trees and higher up it is lying thick through the scrub.
It's clagged in but it's about half way from the bushline to the top before I stop to pull on a bit more gear.
At the top (Rongotea - 8am) the wind is more obstreperous and carrying a bit of rain. In the conditions, what is visible of the ridge is featureless. There's a stake at the top but I can't see the next one so take a bearing and head into the grey and wind.
The map shows the route heading north west past a tarn and onto a broad ridge where it turns west to drop down a spur. If the stakes are a bit haphazard finding where to turn could be tricky.
There's a foot trail that I keep losing and in between; knee deep snow. I keep to my left and spot the occasional stake, eventually reaching a spot where it looks like there's a spur across a wee gully. When I get across there's a clear foot trail.
The spur starts dropping steeply - the snow is soft and I go A over K a few times as the dark clay soil
slides and crumbles beneath. Again there are plenty of animal tracks and the odd patch of reddish orange snow.
I'm happy when the spur eases into forest and out of the wind. It potters gently down for a while before the steep drop to the river.
The bottom is a bit of a clamber down a rocky bluff and a hop around the bottom to where the track leaves from the stream mouth and sidles for five minutes down river to a swing bridge. The track is churned up by hooves.
The bridge spans above a clear green pool to Crow Hut on it's terrace. The sun chooses that moment to emerge - it's a beautiful wee spot.
It's a nice old hut that doesn't get so much use now the farmer is being such a .... about access to the Kawhatau DOC base camp in the west. It's about 9.25 - 3 hours from Wakelings Hut and time for a snack. It's pleasant in the sun and half an hour whistles easily by.
The track sidles into a creek gully and it takes a moment to pick where it climbs the opposite bank. Soon enough though I'm repeating the morning's exercise of a steepish climb to the tops. I stop at the bushline for some more layers then it's a short way to the top where the track sidles briefly to a signposted junction - Kauwhatau base right, and McKinnon left; 11.45.
I follow a well staked route that undulates along the tops - there's not much snow for a start but before long I'm knee deep again. It's cloudy but visibility is not bad.
About 40 minutes from the signs I reach another pointing to McKinnon Hut - this must be where you would continue south along the range to Hikurangi then Mangaweka.
The track heads down increasingly steeply - and slipperly. After 10 minutes the clag drifts apart and McKinnon Hut emerges to the left of a tussocky knob.
At 12.45 it's definitely time for lunch out of the elements.
It's a characterful place right on the bushline which looks like it would be a cosy retreat on a stormy night. I study the map over lunch and figure that things are looking good to get to Waterfall hut tonight provided my planned route down and the river don't throw up any obstacles.
I've rather blithely planned to follow a spur to the river that heads west from the knob above the hut. It looks navigable, reaching the river a few kilometres above where the track joins. It should be a bit of a challenge and hopefully quicker - the perfect shortcut.
I get under way again at 1.10. Rather than climb to the knob I find a foot trail from the helicopter pad that sidles up hill near the bush edge. Reaching the spur I start downwards keeping an eye on the compass and occasionally the altimeter. I can't see signs of markers or much use.
A bit above 1100m I drop right off the spur aiming for a spur that points further upstream. It's steep and a bit tricky, but I only have one little bluff and a grovel through a gully to keep on the right line.
A dirty hot and slightly smug tramper emerges at the desired junction. The river is slightly up with snow melt but is running clear. It's 2.30 - an hour twenty from the hut; much faster than the track.
The sun is shining directly up some stretches of the river and it is very pleasant. The river is a good size but nothing tricky - I keep a half hearted eye on the map but am not bothered about exactly where I am.
There's the odd waterfall or stream joining the river but I quickly lose track of which might be marked on the map.
A bit under an hour up stream there's what will sometimes be a wee island in high flow - complete with tree.
I note the time at the largest side streams on the true left thinking I will easily recognise Iron Peg Creek (I don't). For future reference it works out at: 2.30 join river, 3.27 island, 3.47 stream, 4.28 stream, 4.47 stream, 5.08 - Iron Peg Creek.
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| Iron Peg Creek |
Now it is (in theory) familiar territory. Having reached Iron Peg Creek a little bit of edge drains from the day. I'm going to reach the hut before dark. The forecast is for rain and wind tonight so I'd rather be inside. I start watching for Broken Ridge to appear ahead - it duly emerges - a comforting milestone and a reminder of an enjoyable morning scramble.
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Broken Ridge
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Rangi Creek gives a glimpse up to sun on a snow streaked knob - I think it might be Rangioteatua but in retrospect suspect it was the knob north of Rangi saddle. 15 minutes later I'm at Waterfall Hut in it's clearing with a remnant patch of snow. Just after 5.30 - 11 hours after setting out and covering a satisfying distance and variety of territory (with a few breaks).
The hut is well familiar. I strip off sopping boots and trou and settle in. No fire tonight, I can do without the hassle of gathering wood and tending it. I elect instead to warm my feet on the pack of dinner dehy.
During the night the wind occasionally elicits a loud bang from the tin chimney, peering outside drizzly rain seems to be keeping it up.
The plan in the morning is to head into Rangi saddle and see what the route up to Rangoioteatua is looking like. The forecast is a bit miserable but the route sounds not too tricky. From there I'm hoping to head over three Johns to take a spur down to the Waipawa River.
I've made a bit of a habit of taking different routes to and from this hut over the last year or so and this will come close to exhausting the options. Admittedly I have come up river previously - but only from Iron Peg Creek, and over Rangi Saddle too - but not up to Rangioteatua. I reckon I haven't broken the mould yet.
I get away around 6.45; the decision not to try to dry socks and boots is quickly proved sound with four river crossings before I start heading up Rangi Creek.
It's cool, there's a bit of wind and drifts of rain come and go. The rubble in Rangi Creek is wet and slippery but I'm pretty sure it's out of the worst of it down here.
Once out of the bush the gully has a bit of snow and the wind starts getting boisterous towards the ridge. About an hour twenty from the hut I'm sheltering on the northeast side of the saddle dragging on gloves and checking the map.
The wind is strong here, driving bands of drizzle in from the west(ish) - it's going to be a bit more of a proposition 300m higher with snow to contend with. Not to mention soaked feet. I have a think and decide to continue with retreat an option if it gets too bad.
There's not much snow at this level but out of the saddle the wind immediately starts pushing me around. There's a few steep scrambles up through tussock - being careful to avoid slick patches. At one point I avoid what would be an easy route across shingle on the northeast side of the spur as it would require crossing a strip of harder snow which disappears down into the clag.
Where possible I hang on the leeward side of the spur until I roll over the top of a knob and into a saddle. Normally the next bit would be steepish but straight forward. Today it looks bleak - the clag shreds through the saddle with steep snowy slopes drifting in and out of view above.
The snow is deepish in the saddle and the wind is annoying but it ends up just being a simple grind upwards. As the spur rounds onto the top the wind has polished the snow off the ridge and the cairn is just rimed with ice. The wind is stronger again now, however the ridge is fairly straight forward from here - providing you don't stray off the southeast side.
I have already set a bearing through the next long saddle so I don't have to fish the map out - a quick glance at the compass and I head northeast and gently down.
A short way into the saddle a solid wall of wind comes smashing in from the northwest. It's a battle to keep upright and moving - a few times having to kneel and brace as progress becomes impossible - or being pushed helplessly half a dozen steps up slope towards the edge. It's not helped by patches of deeper snow.
Fortunately the ground is reasonably level but I'm feeling pretty beaten about by the time the ground starts sloping up towards pt 1635. I huddle behind a snow bank for a much needed breather and bite.
Underway again I veer too far left on the way off 1635 - the slope looks right but is dropping too steeply - a compass check confirms and it's a wasted slog through snow, shrubs and spaniard back to the top to get on the correct bearing again.
The first part downwards is knee deep tussock and spaniard (still haven't found a trail through here) with a foot trail eventually developing near the face on the right. The snow becomes patchy, the wind drops and I'm soon moving freely over herbfield. A hare races across the slope in front.
With ears still ringing from the wind it's pleasant following the gentle ridge down into the saddle and start the climb out. I decide not to risk the steep slopes of Three Johns and a potentially long scrub bash down the spur I had my eye on. Instead - as soon as it looks doable I cut across the gully to my left to join the spur down to Waipawa saddle.
Everything steadily improves - the wind drops further, and by the time I reach the saddle I can see that I will soon be dropping out of the cloud.
Pausing for a drink below the saddle I discover a minor disaster - I've lost the orange cap that has been on so many trips. It owed me nothing but I regret the loss and the litter that it has now become.
It's 1020 - it's only been two hours forty on the tops from Rangi Saddle but they've felt like two reasonably tough hours.
With a few less layers I head head down valley. A glow in the clouds ahead promises sun on the lower river flats. The odd patch of snow shows footprints which must be the couple from Saturday who would have come through yesterday.
It's an active landscape with a lot of shingle coming down the valley, but if you keep your eyes peeled there is often a good foot trail somewhere on the true left.
The cloud drops behind and before I reach the forks above the hut it's a different day. This time I pay attention and spot the triangle and cairn marking the track up to the Sunrise Track - a short distance up valley from the hut track - not what is shown on the map.
Back at the car at 12.10 I can finally peel off wet clothes and am soon bumping back down the road past flocks of wild turkeys.
Postscript
Despite not ticking all the planned boxes it's been an eminently enjoyable trip. Pretty snowscapes on Saturday, checked out an alternative route to Wakelings hut, a couple of whio, navigating Rongotea in the clag, Crow and McKinnon Huts (more snow and clag), a satisfying shortcut to the river, pretty river trip up to Waterfall, Rangi saddle to Rongotea and over to Waipawa saddle in challenging conditions (wind, snow and clag).
Sure, skipped a bit of ridge and the Three Johns exit, but didn't really fancy sleeping on the ridge Sun night or a snowy leatherwood bash in galeforce winds off Three Johns - can't regret that too much.
