Francis Creek and Shingle Slip Knob

It starts with three orphaned spot-heights on the steep and unfashionable slopes above the mid Waiohine River. How on earth do you link them up and make a semi credible trip?

With a day or two mulling, a few other features I've been meaning to have a look at come back to mind; that aircraft wreck on Shingle Slip Knob, Francis Creek, some spot-heights around Angle Knob and a couple just off the Gentle Annie track. 

The only way to string them together involves a fair amount of up and down and a night out. That's not so bad - what is bad is having to book a bed in a hut for the first time (not really complaining - just mildly put out that I have to go through the 'front country' to get to the back country).

What:    Nav trip, spot-heighting and disaster voyeurism

Where:  Francis Creek, Shingle Slip Knob and surrounds

When:    9-11 March 2018

Who:      Solo

Map:

Closer view of the interesting bits

Train home, chuck stuff in the car, stop for petrol, then again for a kebab in Carterton - finally departing the road end on a soggy Friday night at 8.45pm. Dark already - it must be autumn. Also quite cool - the sou-easter is bringing some pretty chilly air after a hot summer.

The first order of the night is to pick up spot-height 412 - on a wee lump at the bottom of the Gentle Annie. A doddle in daylight and pretty straight forward in the dark, but for a bit of compass trouble (never did work out what was wrong with it - maybe lingering affects from the magnet last week?). There are some foot trails along the top of the lump and lots of pest control tracks around it, but I find a way to exit through a swamp and supple jack.

A bit out of sorts, I resume the walk up through mist. The next spot-height (801) is somewhat easier - I locate a foot trail leaving the main track and it's pretty easy to follow up to a flat top among dripping trees. Here there is an intersection of old ways. Clearly the main track from the carpark to Mt Holdsworth used to come up the spur line, and Carrington Ridge, which heads south from here, must have had a track back in the day (no longer marked on the map).

With the evening's entertainment dealt with and my watch showing 1040 I settle down to the serious business of getting to my bed for the night.

An hour later, Powell hut is showing a light as it emerges from the clag. A group is playing cards and I leave them to it in favour of crawling into bed. The hut is under half full so I probably didn't need to book.

In the morning the view is grey with a few breaks in the clag showing that the Wairarapa is clear. The unpleasant prospect of dragging on damp clothes and getting out means it is 0740 before I finally get away.

It stays claggy until after Mt Holdsworth when there are a few breaks to the east. It doesn't help me so much as I am looking for the start of a spur running nor-west. And it is on the boundary between two maps (my own fault - I forgot to do a printout overlapping the two).

A brief respite - the clag lifts

It turns out to be pretty easy - just after the East Holdsworth Track turnoff I take a bearing and the spur soon emerges ahead. It's about 0830 as I start to make my way down and quickly drop below the clag. There's little or no ground trail but when I reach it, the scrub is not too bad with a quick transition into stunted forest.

The spur starts to emerge

Spurs are pretty much spurs, but this one is quite entertaining. It drops steeply with a number of knobs and little turns that you don't want to miss (or don't want to take by mistake). A stream to the south is a constant companion with some pretty waterfalls, and getting quite substantial by the bottom. The trick is to keep it close on the left but don't drift onto any side spurs that would drop rapidly into the water course. The spur top is often sharp with drops on each side, and towards the bottom requires some steep clambering.

The odd glimpse through the canopy shows steep faces on all sides particularly across Francis Creek where I will be trying to find a route up. What the map says is born out - there are some impossibly steep faces if you try to climb in the wrong place.

A little after 10 I'm standing by Francis Creek - it's a good size with large boulders and log jambs. The creek that has shadowed my way down is also no slouch - the two come together in a cascade and drop rapidly down the narrow valley.

Forks on Francis Creek

From the map, I've figured that the best access up the opposite side is downstream of the forks to (hopefully) find a way out of the creek and up to a spur running NNW to pt 1120. That's pretty much how it goes, barring the sweating and swearing.

I head down stream a few hundred meters and stop for a bite before tackling the climb. What with admiring the scenery, refilling water, losing a few layers and a bit of a sit down, half an hour has passed.

On the lower slopes a flock of Whiteheads come down to scold me which attracts a Piwakawaka who performs his wero a few feet from my face. A little later two Riflemans come just as close - closer than I have experienced before.

There are a few windows out to clouds on the tops and the surrounding slopes. I play the inevitable game of trying to label the features. To the west, Francis Creek drops to the Waiohine - on it's true left is the spur I came up a few weeks back to Isabella and (when the clag lifts) Holdsworth to the south of where I'm standing. The main range forms the eastern horizon and I pick out where Anderson's hut is, the bushy saddle to Kahiwiroa with my spur from the previous trip, and Aokaparangi further south. But this isn't getting me up the hill.

Spur from Francis stream to Isabella from a week or two back

There's a bit of a scramble through scrub before getting into the tussock but not too bad. I find a good animal trail angling up the west face of the spur and avoiding the top of the first knob. It takes me to flat section on the spur then it's pretty good going to 1412. At 12.50 it's taken over two hours to get up from the creek.

Looking up spur to 1412 with Angle Knob in cloud

It's good to stop and admire the view - the cloud is still coming and going though so it is all a little somber. I note that the route up to Angle Knob is going to be quite a scramble tomorrow with some sharks teeth to navigate.




From 1412, Angle Knob gets more cloudy



Spur to McGregor Biv in mid ground

The cloud ceiling is high enough that the ridge to Shingle Slip Knob is clear. There is a bit of ground trail on the narrow sections but a lot of the top is broad and the trail is easily lost. It's not far though.

At the top, a couple of crosses stand in the tussock a little to the north, marking where the flight crew are buried. They are dwarfed by the landscape and the grey aluminium matches the grey sky.

The back of the crosses have large eroded sections where the grain of the aluminium is visible - I assume this is from ice forming and breaking the surface.

From the ridge-top the tail section of the plane is clearly visible a little way down slope. I sit and have lunch over-looking the scene before working along further and finding a foot trail dropping down the face.

The plane was apparently on a training flight from Ohakea and crashed in poor conditions on the way back. The wreckage was found three days later with the two dead crew (further info).

Tail section

This is the most intact of the four planes I have seen in the ranges (honestly I am not a plane crash voyeur). It looks like the plane hit with an uphill trajectory and, because there were no trees, it has not broken up as much as others, and the pieces are more visible in the open.

It is also possible that the pieces have been moved - some material was removed from the site in 2009 for display but the culprits had to put them back. One can also imagine that over 60 years of the Tararua wind fatiguing loose metal will be whittling it away.

Approaching the site, more pieces of wreckage become apparent. From one angle you can almost see the shape of the plane with a wing, the tail and the front section in approximate relationship. An original photo of the crash indicates that there used to be more of the fuselage present, and the presence of a RNZAF paint scheme long since stripped off by the weather.

 

Bent and broken propeller

The remains of the cockpit

The work now is to get around the slope and study the spur that runs NNW swinging to NW and eventually dropping to pt 736. As always it would have been easier to go back to the top of the hill - but I'll probably never learn.

After dropping into the bush it is a little hard to find the spur, but it soon forms and drops quickly at first with little shape then more gently with a broad top. It's a wee while along the almost flat top and time to keep company with a goat that scoots ahead for a while. And once a deer barks from somewhere off to the side. The going gets tricky at 1000m where I need to head of in a different direction and there is little shape to the hillside.

A noise from ahead indicates a deer is starting to make tracks - he stops when I stop and we look at each other for a good minute from about 40m away. I must be down wind as he wrinkles his nose but doesn't move - even when I make a poor imitation of a deer bark. Eventually he moves off but stops again, his antlers just visible through the trees. I'm the first to get bored and head off in the wrong direction for my spot height. He grunts loudly at my retreating back and we exchange 'roars' for a while (by roar I mean guttural sounds like a very large man with indigestion trying to burb past mash potatoes caught in his wind-pipe).

Eventually I sort myself out and head in the correct direction to take a bit of a break on the knob at 736. The map shows a bit of a gully running north from here to a stream where I can cross to the next spur north. I figure it looks the most navigable route and it turns out to be pretty good - a lot to do with the number of animal trails.

By the time I get to the bottom, my gully is carrying a sizable wee cataract (but not marked on the map). The stream I meet is bigger.




My unmarked side stream

I drink my fill and top up my camel back. This will have to do until tomorrow lunchtime unless I fancy tarn water.

The next section promises to be a bit of a gut buster. And judging by the map the best route starts right here. Across the stream there's the foot of a sharp spur - to my surprise there is a stream on the other side and the first few hundred meters the way is very narrow with sharp drops on both sides (the true right stream is smaller and not marked on the map).

After this, it is just a steady, steep climb with nothing but animal trails to follow. I wander a bit off the south of the spur at one point into some quite nasty country (logs, scrub, bush lawyer) and find myself following a wee stream on what seems to be the face of a broad spur. I take advantage and drink my fill again.

The day has cleared and the afternoon sun is angling in under the canopy, almost drying my soggy gear. I am of half a mind to push for the top and make a go for Jumbo hut to arrive in the dark - the less gung-ho half is intending to stick to the plan and keeps half an eye out for spots to fly camp. Not so likely on this part of the hill.

By the time I roll over the top of 1145 (7th and last spot-height for the trip) it's 5.45 and the sensible half has decided I am most definitely looking for a tent site. The top is open and mossy but also somewhat boggy. I head for a flat spot before the saddle on the grounds that it might be a little more sheltered. By taking the sensible option I now have plenty of light to select the best site and pitch the fly - at which I am still not very practiced (the fly is quite narrow so a bit unforgiving if it is slightly out of alignment).

I dump damp clothes and don every layer I have, before climbing into my bag to cook dinner. The evening sun is just clearing the main range to line the mossy trunks with gold.

Comfy?

It's cool and eerily quite, a slight breeze occasionally wafts through, but it is a most unusual Tararua evening. A deer barks from the saddle and approaches my camp before dropping back into the gully, his barks fading with distance.

I wake before dawn and pack in the hope that I might beat the sun to the tops. Getting away at 0700 it is already dipping the tops of the main range behind me before I reach the bushline. But I do manage to get to the tops before it clears the saddle by Angle Knob.

There is a bit of ground trail through the saddle and on the climb I find a barrel covered in plastic with a spade next to it and a cairn nearby. I assume a hunter's stash. At the bushline there is a bit of scrub but it is a remarkably kind transition to the tops.

Dawn on the main range
High point is Mt Crawford, Nichols hut invisible on right, Anderson's Memorial hut behind lump on left

Free of the bush I can see the shadow creeping down the slopes of  the main range. I can also just make out Nichols Hut which stays in shade for a remarkably long time.

On the way to the top I pass the face that gives Shingle Slip Knob it's name - a big chute on the NW face funnels broken rock down a gully into the head waters of the stream I crossed yesterday afternoon. Rounding the shoulder of the Knob, the sun breaks the horizon and the shadow of the ridge races down slope past my feet.

Back at the top of the Knob and I am retracing my steps for the first time in the trip. The grave markers strike a markedly different tone in the morning light.

South west down main range - Kapakapanui on horizon at right

I make a slightly better job of following a ground trail but lose it on the climb to 1412. Progress is somewhat slowed by the frequent stops to gaze at the views - again, the game is to identify the high points on the main range, Carkeek Ridge, Dorset Ridge, the spur with MacGregor biv...

View north - into the headwaters of the Waiohine 

 View south - Isabella on right next to Holdsworth
my spur from Francis running down from left 

View back down ridge to Shingle Slip Knob

Angle Knob - yet to see the sun

My spur again with Holdsworth beyond

After 1412 it is cool in the shadow of Angle Knob. The sharks teeth on the ridge look a bit daunting but the north side is quite navigable with a bit of a trail that (if you keep your eyes peeled) threads the needle with out too much exposure. The odd cairn shows an easier path.

Just before 0900 I climb over the shoulder, into the sun, and onto the top of Angle Knob (1510m). I'm enjoying the view and taking a few photos when I hear voices - a couple of chaps have arrived from the more approachable east side. One of them recognises me from a trip some months back when we met at Waitewaewae hut on the way out to Otaki Forks. They are on a VUWTC trip doing the loop via Broken Axe Pinnacles and Baldy having spent the night at Jumbo hut.

We chat for a bit then I head along the ridge to Jumbo passing the rest of their party on the way.

North from Angle Knob - Ridge to MacGregor in foreground

Along the ridge I notice that there is ice on the trail - no wonder it was a bit chilly last night. With the conditions and broad trail I can make good pace and am soon at Jumbo where I meet a party of five that had been at Jumbo Hut - I suspect I would have been sleeping on the floor if I had come through last night.

They are heading for Holdsworth so I slip ahead and trot south along the ridge - meeting three or four parties coming the other way. There are frequent reasons to stop and look across the valley to Shingle Slip Knob. The shadows on the spurs give the valley the look of elephant hide. Once Shingle is in sight the plane stands out - a shining spot near the top of the Knob.

Across Francis Creek valley - my spur up on left

At 1015 I'm looking down my spur of yesterday morning with no clag - completely unmissable - don't know what all the fuss was about. Turning east I start the sharp descent to the Atiwhakatu valley.

The track is easy to follow and, beyond a few pauses to drop layers, it is an uneventful trip down. There is one point worth noting for future reference - shortly below the bushline an old marker has 'water' scratched on it and a stream is audible just to the south of the spur. I assume this is the point on the map where this is a pronounced kink in the creek.

From near top of East Holdsworth Track
Nichols (or Crawford?) on left, then spur up to Shingle, then my spur up, then Angle near centre

The day is heating up so it's good to be under the canopy. There's a bit of  windfall and some missing markers indicating that the track is not quite as maintained as the Holdsworth circuit, but that's no bad thing. It's over an hour to the bottom where the wide graveled track offers faster travel and rest for weary knees.

It is also where I run into serious traffic - a multitude of families with dogs are heading up valley. I jog where I can taking about half an hour to arrive at the carpark at 1205. Looking at the map it feels like a reasonable half day effort.

Postscript

A really satisfying trip. The spur down to Francis Creek is a wonderful little diversion, and the creek itself is impressive. The spur up is a grunt but the tops are well rewarding as you are surrounded by peaks and ranges. The wreckage is interesting for those that like that sort of thing - certainly an important part of the history of the Tararuas. Getting to 736 and 1145 was a worthy challenge of navigation skills and stamina, and the night out on 1145 was a surprising pleasure.

And seven more spot-heights ticked off.

Kahiwiroa Crossing

How do you create a beautiful Tararua crossing? It seems you do it by accident. This trip was an elaborate attempt to pick up four spot heights above the Aokaparangi Stream (between the Main Range and the Otaki River).

When you think about it, the Tararuas are defined by rivers and ranges. Locations and features are described by their relationship to its spines and its arteries. So ... a trip that immerses you in the Otaki, climbs the main range via a little visited valley, then plunges for a swim in the Waiohine before scaling Mt Holdsworth. All in the space of two days - is a pretty good cross section of what the Tararuas represent.

What:    Tararua crossing and nav trip
Where:  Otaki forks to Holdsworth via Kahiwiroa
When:   9-11 February 2018
Who:     Solo
Map:



Kahiwiroa Crossing - with a little side excursion

A little after 7.30 on a Friday evening the support crew takes a snap of a natty tramper about to potter off from the Otaki Forks car park.



Before ...



First slip - looking down river

The aim is to find a spot to camp an hour or so up the Otaki gorge. Last time through there were a couple of terraces that looked promising.

It's a bit easier getting to and across the first slip having been through once before. I'm hoping to get to the second big terrace but in the end find a spot after an hour, towards the end of the first and pitch the fly as the light starts to fade. The DD Hammocks super-light weight fly is just that - and is quite narrow so it takes a bit of farfing to get it right.

The night is quiet apart from the odd spot of rain and occasional small animal of the scampering-around-in-the-leaves variety.

It's pleasant to wake with the light filtering down through the canopy and break camp in the dry to head off about 7am.




The start - camp site approx at blue triangle

When I was here previously, I followed the old track to the big slip and lost it. This time I keep my eyes peeled and still end up at the slip with no sign of an alternative. I work gingerly down the side of the slip to the river.

Slips come in a variety of flavours - this is not one of those fresh crumbly ones that you can gaily scree run down - no, it's old and cantankerous. There's steep crumbling rock which may or may not hold your weight at each step, with a skiff of grit to make it more interesting. If you start sliding you just know you'll emerge at the bottom like you've been through a tumble dryer full of belt sanders.

On the other side of the slip I scramble up the valley side to see if I can see the old track but give it away after half an hour of precarious thrashing around and descend to follow the river. It's about 8.50am.

Afterwards - a helpful colleague suggests that if you just bash up beside the slip and over the top you eventually pick up the old track again on the other side of the stream. The old maps website indicates that in 1979 the track crossed the stream and climbed over the hill to Penn Creek but a section of track also followed up the gorge - I didn't see any sign of it but may not have climbed high enough.

Otaki River - clear and low

As previously, there are a few scrambles around deep bits and some deep wades but all doable with the river low.  It's about 9.10am when Penn Creek hoves into sight, shortly followed by pt 148, then the spur to Pakihore that I took last time. Finally, new territory.

The river chews into the base of the Pakihore Ridge

The map is quite insistent that the next section is gorgy as the river skirts around the toe of the Pakihore Ridge. I haven't been able to find any hints online as to how passable it is, so have some trepidation as to what's ahead. It proves to be all navigable, although some rock climbing is required and I find myself swimming a short distance on a couple of occasions. I wouldn't go in on my own with the river up.

A bit of rock climbing - should have swum it

The gorge section is impressive and, much as I distrust it, it is almost sad to leave the river behind. I almost barrel past the mouth of the creek I want (it's either the Whatiuru or Aokaparangi - the map isn't clear which). At 11.30am it's four and a half hours since departure and two hours twenty from Penn Creek - so not rapid progress.

Looking down river - the narrow mouth of Aokaparangi/Whatiuru on left

From the gorge to the tops

The valley starts narrow with some clambering up the stream bed but soon opens for a very pleasant wander with a bit of sun occasionally cracking through the high overcast. There are a few spots you could camp and I reckon it would be pretty cool as I think the area is seldom visited. I heard tell there was once a Whatiuru Biv but no idea where.

Enjoying the walk too much means I neglect paying attention to location and time, a few minutes are consequently wasted confirming that I have reached the forks between the two creeks. This is the point of departure for a completely pointless grunt up a very steep spur to reach an isolated spot-height.

I've been eyeing-up Pt 738 for a while and it looks as steep in person as it does on the map. It is also relentless. There's a bit of animal trail and the bush is reasonably open so it is hard and hot, rather than difficult work. My shirt is soon relegated to the pack.

The top, at 1.40pm is a relief and provides a little view of clouds on the slopes above and, on the way down glimpses of Aokaparangi creek far below but not a lot else.

The trip down is equally steep and a little more complex requiring attention to navigation and footing (who says I can't multitask). 40 minutes later at the bottom it does what spurs so often do in this country - leave you hanging tantalisingly close to the creek. A bit of casting about and a point to scramble off the slope eventually presents itself.

Forks on Aokaparangi at base of spur

The creek is cool, clear and welcome. Passed time for lunch. It's still too hot for a shirt but sufficiently overcast that sunburn isn't a concern. This really is an isolated bend on a stream among hundreds, and miles from anyway.

Not a naiad or dryad or a woodland nymph ...

The next section is a 1000m climb to the main range at Kahiwiroa via a promising looking spur. I have seen the odd report of trips through this spur and it is an obvious route to the tops but clearly not frequently used. I fossick a couple of hundred metres down stream and find a break in the precipitous foot of the spur and start to climb.

There is a bit of trail on the spur and it's easy to follow. Further up, there are breaks in the canopy that give views of the main range with clouds spilling over from the east.

Main range around Maungahuka

Dali forest at pt 1185

At pt 1185 (about 5.30pm) it finally feels that progress has been made. There's a bit of of a clearing on the knob and some beautiful goblin forest - also a slightly tricky bit of navigation to find the saddle before the final climb to the range, arriving at the top about 6.30pm. Kahiwiroa - 1320m.

I send a text to home command as I've decided that with rain forecast, rather than sleeping out I'll head up range to Anderson Memorial Hut for a comfortable night. I take the opportunity to check out the spurs down to the Waiohine and up the other side to Isabelle that I will be working through tomorrow. 

With the mucking around it takes about 50 minutes from the top of Kahiwiroa to Anderson Memorial Hut (7.20pm). As usual it takes a lot longer than expected to drop into the bush and follow the narrow ridge to the hut through mossy beech forest.

South down main range from Kahiwiroa

The hut is empty and warm. I settle in, cook dinner and check out the injuries from the day. A few bruises and scratches, rub points from gaiters, a big toe nail about to drop off (just after it's grown in again) but otherwise just the usual aches from all the climbing.

It rains solidly in the night but in the morning it is just a high overcast. The forecast is for heavy rain late afternoon.  While I'm here I've decided to pick up a couple of spot heights - the first is 1060 - a small bushy knob off the west of the range. It takes about 15 minutes to drop through scrub, and leatherwood into the bush and onto the knob. About the same to get back again.

Pt 1060 in foreground Waitatapia, Kapakapanui and a bit of Kapiti Island behind

Back on the main track I head north a short way then scramble up to pt 1226. It offers panoramic views and I take the time to recognise places I've been, places I'm going to go and places I'm about to go very shortly. Snow berries are buried in mossy corners and in among the tussock providing a bit of second breakfast. I finally drag myself away and head back to the hut - it's been an hour and a half diversion and not getting me any closer to my destination.

Spiky spaniard

So ... southwards, back along the bushy ridge and onto the shoulder of Kahiwiroa. After a bit of mucking around to get cellphone reception I text my intentions and pick a spot to depart the track and find the top of my spur. It's about 0915.

Looking north from the shoulder of Kahiwiroa up the Waiohine River valley

My spur on right - pointing at Francis Stream.
Spur leading up to Isabella on right 

There could be a trail in the tussock if you squint, but it's not up to much and easily lost. There's a bit of steep leatherwood to get through before the bushline which is much worse if you drift off the spur. Once among the trees it could be any spur under the familiar Tararua bush with a bit of ground trail which seems mostly used by game.

The route down should be straightforward, although the line of the spur proves a little hard to follow in a few spots. The main issue is not to get bluffed at the bottom as it drops to a marked gorge. I plan to drop north onto a spur at 700m that leads to a side creek.

The start of the side spur is a little tricky to find, but once on, it is strongly shaped. There's a lot of undergrowth and the rain starts in earnest so I am soon soaked through and berating my useless specs. It descends steeply and mossily.

At the base there is no apparent way off. The creek drops through waterfalls and the sides are high and crumbling. It's stopped raining but it's with a great deal of care that I sidle along the slope, eventually finding a route down to the river rather than the stream. I suspect it might have been a better option to follow the main spur then sidle to drop to the river.

No matter - it's just after 11am and the sun is striking mist off the river - loverly. It's just a short wander down stream to the start of the gorge.

Looking down river

From what I've read, this gorge has a bit of a swim to contend with. Water sensitive things like cell phones are stashed away and I wade in to the long calm pool and start working my way down the true right bank.  It would be a heinous scramble to avoid this section and to my eye there is no low level climbable route. I have a brainwave and blow as much air into my camelback as it will take, on the theory that every little bit will help.

The bottom drops away and soon may as well be a mile below my flailing boots. I use the odd purchase point on the bank to propel me forward and at last feel gravel under foot again. Whilst neither efficient, nor elegant my dog paddle has done the trick.

Looking back up the pool from Francis Creek

Francis Creek is narrow, dim, and mossy, it is also marked as gorge. By all accounts there is a route onto the spur a few hundred metres up. I'm not sure what to expect.

I don't see any obvious way out until I reach a very deep pool. The true left slope is steep but looks navigable so I start scrambling. There is supposed to be a recognised route up here but I don't see anything but goat tracks. The rain sets in heavily, making things a little more treacherous.

At 700m there is a flat spot on the spur where I figure anyone coming up from the stream will arrive - hopefully there will be some ground trail from there. A family of goats leave their shelter to precede me onto the flat where I take a breather. 

There is a fair amount of windfall up the spur so the trail is often not easy, but no more difficult than others spurs. Once again I have a diversion to execute - this time I detour south around the spur at 900m to reach the spur down to 754 - 1.50pm and another spot height down.

Very wet after swimming and climbing in the rain,
but apparently still relatively cheerful

From 994 (about 2.20pm) the ground trail gets stronger and it is a long but not difficult wander along the gently shelving spur until it steepens to climb to the bushline on Isabella. There are a couple of cairns in the tussock but not much foot trail. I think the trick is not to drift east as the scrub seems to be a bit deeper that way.

At the bushline (3.30pm), the source of the day's rain is apparent - the sky north is gloomy and squalls of rain can be seen approaching. The wind is strong but is at least pushing me uphill. It gets steadily windier and wetter.

More weather from the north.
From slopes of Isabella - my spur on left

Some good soul has trimmed the track over Isabella so it's easy to see your footing and the buffeting from the wind is a little less likely to trip you up. By the time I'm climbing out of the saddle towards Holdsworth the cloud has closed in and visibility is down to 50m the rain isn't cold so I don't bother with a coat and I don't pause at the top (4.20) before starting down the expressway to Powell Hut.

The home straight

The circuit from the Holdsworth road end up the Gentle Annie to Powell Hut, Mt Holdsworth and Jumbo, then down to Atiwhakatu to exit down the valley (or, in reverse if you prefer) is the closet thing to a great walk in the Tararuas. The tracks are well graded with lots of lovely infrastructure like stairs and drainage.

It's the sort of tramping experience I generally avoid but does allow for a reasonably quick exit from the tops to Powell Hut - I had thought the rain was heavy until just before reaching the hut when it really opens up. I thump onto the veranda amidst a tropical downpour about 4.40pm.

There are three souls in residence.  The young woman turns out to be the hut warden and is usually resident in Masterton - with her are two chaps that are doing a long trip and have come in from Tarn Ridge ahead of the weather.

I chat as I fill the log and interrogate the warden about the time to the carpark. She reckons two hours at fast pace.

The track has turned into a stream but I can potter along at a good rate down the flights of steps and along the well formed path with the rain pounding down. Feeling somewhat weary I can only muster a walk on the long flat section after Mountain House. On the down hill again I trot as much as possible and the rain clears.

It starts to get crowded after Rocky Lookout. A couple then two more with a dog are surprised as my disreputable figure shambles into sight around a corner and clomps off down the track. At the bottom, a couple of joggers then a group of teenagers wearing nothing vaguely tramping related (they were heard talking in the carpark about heading up to Atiwhakatu but wouldn't have made it by dark), then a few more people heading back to the carpark. The rain has blown through but it's still threatening so all this activity is a little odd.

At the carpark, a little after 6, and 70 minutes from the hut, the support crew administers ginger beer and sympathy in response to the old man noises that are produced as I divest myself of pack, boots and soggy gear.

... and after .... "Oooh - give me sympathy!"

Postscript

Tararua crossings are generally satisfying as they give the sense of having got somewhere, as well as having done something. This one was fantastic: marked tracks and almost forgotten tracks, mountain tops and gorges, swims and climbs, and some challenging navigation. To my mind it showcased some of the best the Tararuas have to offer.