When you think about it, the Tararuas are defined by rivers and ranges. Locations and features are described by their relationship to its spines and its arteries. So ... a trip that immerses you in the Otaki, climbs the main range via a little visited valley, then plunges for a swim in the Waiohine before scaling Mt Holdsworth. All in the space of two days - is a pretty good cross section of what the Tararuas represent.
What: Tararua crossing and nav trip
Where: Otaki forks to Holdsworth via Kahiwiroa
When: 9-11 February 2018
Who: Solo
Map:
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| Kahiwiroa Crossing - with a little side excursion |
A little after 7.30 on a Friday evening the support crew takes a snap of a natty tramper about to potter off from the Otaki Forks car park.
 Before ... |
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| First slip - looking down river |
The aim is to find a spot to camp an hour or so up the Otaki gorge. Last time through there were a couple of terraces that looked promising.
It's a bit easier getting to and across the first slip having been through once before. I'm hoping to get to the second big terrace but in the end find a spot after an hour, towards the end of the first and pitch the fly as the light starts to fade. The DD Hammocks super-light weight fly is just that - and is quite narrow so it takes a bit of farfing to get it right.
The night is quiet apart from the odd spot of rain and occasional small animal of the scampering-around-in-the-leaves variety.
It's pleasant to wake with the light filtering down through the canopy and break camp in the dry to head off about 7am.
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| The start - camp site approx at blue triangle |
When I was here previously, I followed the old track to the big slip and lost it. This time I keep my eyes peeled and still end up at the slip with no sign of an alternative. I work gingerly down the side of the slip to the river.
Slips come in a variety of flavours - this is not one of those fresh crumbly ones that you can gaily scree run down - no, it's old and cantankerous. There's steep crumbling rock which may or may not hold your weight at each step, with a skiff of grit to make it more interesting. If you start sliding you just know you'll emerge at the bottom like you've been through a tumble dryer full of belt sanders.
On the other side of the slip I scramble up the valley side to see if I can see the old track but give it away after half an hour of precarious thrashing around and descend to follow the river. It's about 8.50am.
Afterwards - a helpful colleague suggests that if you just bash up beside the slip and over the top you eventually pick up the old track again on the other side of the stream. The old maps website indicates that in 1979 the track crossed the stream and climbed over the hill to Penn Creek but a section of track also followed up the gorge - I didn't see any sign of it but may not have climbed high enough.
Afterwards - a helpful colleague suggests that if you just bash up beside the slip and over the top you eventually pick up the old track again on the other side of the stream. The old maps website indicates that in 1979 the track crossed the stream and climbed over the hill to Penn Creek but a section of track also followed up the gorge - I didn't see any sign of it but may not have climbed high enough.
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| Otaki River - clear and low |
As previously, there are a few scrambles around deep bits and some deep wades but all doable with the river low. It's about 9.10am when Penn Creek hoves into sight, shortly followed by pt 148, then the spur to Pakihore that I took last time. Finally, new territory.
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| The river chews into the base of the Pakihore Ridge |
The map is quite insistent that the next section is gorgy as the river skirts around the toe of the Pakihore Ridge. I haven't been able to find any hints online as to how passable it is, so have some trepidation as to what's ahead. It proves to be all navigable, although some rock climbing is required and I find myself swimming a short distance on a couple of occasions. I wouldn't go in on my own with the river up.
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| A bit of rock climbing - should have swum it |
The gorge section is impressive and, much as I distrust it, it is almost sad to leave the river behind. I almost barrel past the mouth of the creek I want (it's either the Whatiuru or Aokaparangi - the map isn't clear which). At 11.30am it's four and a half hours since departure and two hours twenty from Penn Creek - so not rapid progress.
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| Looking down river - the narrow mouth of Aokaparangi/Whatiuru on left |
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| From the gorge to the tops |
The valley starts narrow with some clambering up the stream bed but soon opens for a very pleasant wander with a bit of sun occasionally cracking through the high overcast. There are a few spots you could camp and I reckon it would be pretty cool as I think the area is seldom visited. I heard tell there was once a Whatiuru Biv but no idea where.
Enjoying the walk too much means I neglect paying attention to location and time, a few minutes are consequently wasted confirming that I have reached the forks between the two creeks. This is the point of departure for a completely pointless grunt up a very steep spur to reach an isolated spot-height.
I've been eyeing-up Pt 738 for a while and it looks as steep in person as it does on the map. It is also relentless. There's a bit of animal trail and the bush is reasonably open so it is hard and hot, rather than difficult work. My shirt is soon relegated to the pack.
The top, at 1.40pm is a relief and provides a little view of clouds on the slopes above and, on the way down glimpses of Aokaparangi creek far below but not a lot else.
The trip down is equally steep and a little more complex requiring attention to navigation and footing (who says I can't multitask). 40 minutes later at the bottom it does what spurs so often do in this country - leave you hanging tantalisingly close to the creek. A bit of casting about and a point to scramble off the slope eventually presents itself.
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| Forks on Aokaparangi at base of spur |
The creek is cool, clear and welcome. Passed time for lunch. It's still too hot for a shirt but sufficiently overcast that sunburn isn't a concern. This really is an isolated bend on a stream among hundreds, and miles from anyway.
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| Not a naiad or dryad or a woodland nymph ... |
The next section is a 1000m climb to the main range at Kahiwiroa via a promising looking spur. I have seen the odd report of trips through this spur and it is an obvious route to the tops but clearly not frequently used. I fossick a couple of hundred metres down stream and find a break in the precipitous foot of the spur and start to climb.
There is a bit of trail on the spur and it's easy to follow. Further up, there are breaks in the canopy that give views of the main range with clouds spilling over from the east.
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| Main range around Maungahuka |
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| Dali forest at pt 1185 |
At pt 1185 (about 5.30pm) it finally feels that progress has been made. There's a bit of of a clearing on the knob and some beautiful goblin forest - also a slightly tricky bit of navigation to find the saddle before the final climb to the range, arriving at the top about 6.30pm. Kahiwiroa - 1320m.
I send a text to home command as I've decided that with rain forecast, rather than sleeping out I'll head up range to Anderson Memorial Hut for a comfortable night. I take the opportunity to check out the spurs down to the Waiohine and up the other side to Isabelle that I will be working through tomorrow.
With the mucking around it takes about 50 minutes from the top of Kahiwiroa to Anderson Memorial Hut (7.20pm). As usual it takes a lot longer than expected to drop into the bush and follow the narrow ridge to the hut through mossy beech forest.
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| South down main range from Kahiwiroa |
The hut is empty and warm. I settle in, cook dinner and check out the injuries from the day. A few bruises and scratches, rub points from gaiters, a big toe nail about to drop off (just after it's grown in again) but otherwise just the usual aches from all the climbing.
It rains solidly in the night but in the morning it is just a high overcast. The forecast is for heavy rain late afternoon. While I'm here I've decided to pick up a couple of spot heights - the first is 1060 - a small bushy knob off the west of the range. It takes about 15 minutes to drop through scrub, and leatherwood into the bush and onto the knob. About the same to get back again.
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| Pt 1060 in foreground Waitatapia, Kapakapanui and a bit of Kapiti Island behind |
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| Spiky spaniard |
So ... southwards, back along the bushy ridge and onto the shoulder of Kahiwiroa. After a bit of mucking around to get cellphone reception I text my intentions and pick a spot to depart the track and find the top of my spur. It's about 0915.
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| Looking north from the shoulder of Kahiwiroa up the Waiohine River valley |
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| My spur on right - pointing at Francis Stream. Spur leading up to Isabella on right |
There could be a trail in the tussock if you squint, but it's not up to much and easily lost. There's a bit of steep leatherwood to get through before the bushline which is much worse if you drift off the spur. Once among the trees it could be any spur under the familiar Tararua bush with a bit of ground trail which seems mostly used by game.
The route down should be straightforward, although the line of the spur proves a little hard to follow in a few spots. The main issue is not to get bluffed at the bottom as it drops to a marked gorge. I plan to drop north onto a spur at 700m that leads to a side creek.
The start of the side spur is a little tricky to find, but once on, it is strongly shaped. There's a lot of undergrowth and the rain starts in earnest so I am soon soaked through and berating my useless specs. It descends steeply and mossily.
At the base there is no apparent way off. The creek drops through waterfalls and the sides are high and crumbling. It's stopped raining but it's with a great deal of care that I sidle along the slope, eventually finding a route down to the river rather than the stream. I suspect it might have been a better option to follow the main spur then sidle to drop to the river.
No matter - it's just after 11am and the sun is striking mist off the river - loverly. It's just a short wander down stream to the start of the gorge.
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| Looking down river |
From what I've read, this gorge has a bit of a swim to contend with. Water sensitive things like cell phones are stashed away and I wade in to the long calm pool and start working my way down the true right bank. It would be a heinous scramble to avoid this section and to my eye there is no low level climbable route. I have a brainwave and blow as much air into my camelback as it will take, on the theory that every little bit will help.
The bottom drops away and soon may as well be a mile below my flailing boots. I use the odd purchase point on the bank to propel me forward and at last feel gravel under foot again. Whilst neither efficient, nor elegant my dog paddle has done the trick.
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| Looking back up the pool from Francis Creek |
Francis Creek is narrow, dim, and mossy, it is also marked as gorge. By all accounts there is a route onto the spur a few hundred metres up. I'm not sure what to expect.
I don't see any obvious way out until I reach a very deep pool. The true left slope is steep but looks navigable so I start scrambling. There is supposed to be a recognised route up here but I don't see anything but goat tracks. The rain sets in heavily, making things a little more treacherous.
At 700m there is a flat spot on the spur where I figure anyone coming up from the stream will arrive - hopefully there will be some ground trail from there. A family of goats leave their shelter to precede me onto the flat where I take a breather.
There is a fair amount of windfall up the spur so the trail is often not easy, but no more difficult than others spurs. Once again I have a diversion to execute - this time I detour south around the spur at 900m to reach the spur down to 754 - 1.50pm and another spot height down.
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| Very wet after swimming and climbing in the rain, but apparently still relatively cheerful |
At the bushline (3.30pm), the source of the day's rain is apparent - the sky north is gloomy and squalls of rain can be seen approaching. The wind is strong but is at least pushing me uphill. It gets steadily windier and wetter.
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| More weather from the north. From slopes of Isabella - my spur on left |
Some good soul has trimmed the track over Isabella so it's easy to see your footing and the buffeting from the wind is a little less likely to trip you up. By the time I'm climbing out of the saddle towards Holdsworth the cloud has closed in and visibility is down to 50m the rain isn't cold so I don't bother with a coat and I don't pause at the top (4.20) before starting down the expressway to Powell Hut.
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| The home straight |
The circuit from the Holdsworth road end up the Gentle Annie to Powell Hut, Mt Holdsworth and Jumbo, then down to Atiwhakatu to exit down the valley (or, in reverse if you prefer) is the closet thing to a great walk in the Tararuas. The tracks are well graded with lots of lovely infrastructure like stairs and drainage.
It's the sort of tramping experience I generally avoid but does allow for a reasonably quick exit from the tops to Powell Hut - I had thought the rain was heavy until just before reaching the hut when it really opens up. I thump onto the veranda amidst a tropical downpour about 4.40pm.
There are three souls in residence. The young woman turns out to be the hut warden and is usually resident in Masterton - with her are two chaps that are doing a long trip and have come in from Tarn Ridge ahead of the weather.
I chat as I fill the log and interrogate the warden about the time to the carpark. She reckons two hours at fast pace.
The track has turned into a stream but I can potter along at a good rate down the flights of steps and along the well formed path with the rain pounding down. Feeling somewhat weary I can only muster a walk on the long flat section after Mountain House. On the down hill again I trot as much as possible and the rain clears.
It starts to get crowded after Rocky Lookout. A couple then two more with a dog are surprised as my disreputable figure shambles into sight around a corner and clomps off down the track. At the bottom, a couple of joggers then a group of teenagers wearing nothing vaguely tramping related (they were heard talking in the carpark about heading up to Atiwhakatu but wouldn't have made it by dark), then a few more people heading back to the carpark. The rain has blown through but it's still threatening so all this activity is a little odd.
At the carpark, a little after 6, and 70 minutes from the hut, the support crew administers ginger beer and sympathy in response to the old man noises that are produced as I divest myself of pack, boots and soggy gear.
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| ... and after .... "Oooh - give me sympathy!" |
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