Labour weekend - a celebration of workers rights (or commemoration of their subsequent erosion?) and three days for tramping. I take an extra day's leave to give three and a half days, but end up getting out early and using the extra day for some much needed recuperation.
The trip planning starts with an eastern road end (Kashmir Road) and a wish list. Taking the weather into account a plan starts to congeal.
The things that have caught my eye: the river route from the headwaters of the Pohangina River, the Makaretu catchment to the east, Longview Hut (a casualty of a plan change a fortnight ago), and a bunch of ridges to the north (Daphne, Sawtooth, and Black).
The plan: carpark to Howlett Hut via Daphne Ridge, across Sawtooth Ridge to come down Black Ridge to Tarn Biv then down to the Tukituki River, up a spur to Longview Hut then down the Pohangina River, over the Ridge to the Makaretu - pop down to Happy Daze Hut then up the river to Awatere Hut and the carpark. I also have a weather variation up the sleeve.
I completely forget that everyone else has a holiday and will also be wanting to drive around and get into the hills. I bump into more people than I usually meet in the course of 6 months - inevitably, heuristics kick in and I find myself categorising and making assumptions about them ...
What: Tramp - mostly on tracks and in rivers
Where: Eastern Ruahines - between Happy Daze hut and Tarn Biv
When: 26-28 October 2019
Who: Solo
Maps
The trip starts on a Friday night with a bit of research into the meals at the steam punk hotel in Featherston (yes, they do have such a thing). The verdict - good standard for a pub meal, but who let the piano accordionist in!?
The next morning it's quite a drive up to Ashley-Clinton (off highway 50) and a long winding gravel road into the foot hills. All passable in a Carolla hatch although a couple of the steep bits could be a little ropy in the wet. The wee car looks out of place beside the 6 utes at the road end.
A hunter pulls up and we chat as we get sorted. He's about my age and happy to pass the time (assumption: a good bloke that probably treats huts well and doesn't leave rubbish in the bush).
He's also heading to Longview and maybe to Howlett's Hut but is a bit skeptical about the conditions on the ridge. I've already changed the plan on the grounds that it looks like gale force winds and snow on Daphne Ridge.
It's 1020 as I head up on a good track from the saddle north west up to the Ruahine Range and Longview Hut. I pass a hunter coming down after an aborted day trip - too windy so no self-respecting game is about (assumption: newbie with clean, new gear).
On the ridge the wind is obstreperous - the sort that pushes you around and generally makes life difficult. The hut is a few hundred meters south along the range. A little over an hour from the carpark. The hut is busy with two hunters about to exit and four trampers debating their next move (assumption: probably part of a tramping club (wrong), one of them is going to be annoying and disapprove of solo tramping off track).
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| Spur to carpark runs left to right |
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| Longview Hut |
We chat and I suggest a few options for getting to Top Gorge Hut. The two hunters are a bit gloomy after three days of snow, hail, howling wind and no deer. They're pulling the pin and heading back to the car (assumption: a bit rough around the edges, probably haven't put their names in the book or paid their hut fees, but will probably stock up firewood etc, bound to have some booze and will likely leave some supplies at the hut).
Leaving the hut just before 12 I bump into hunter number one and we share notes - he's set to stay the night and see if conditions in the morning are conducive for getting to Howlett's Hut. I relay my changed intentions to head to Tarn Biv and assess conditions for Black and Sawtooth Ridges tomorrow.
There's an intermittent foot trail and the odd cairn along the ridge to pt 1189 and then the drop to the bushline. Despite being pushed about by the wind, navigation is straightforward but I suspect would be tricky in clag as the top is often broad.
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| Looking down on ridge with 1189 (from the next day) |
In the shelter of beech forest the wind roars through the tree tops but is no longer an impediment to orderly progress. I potter along (past the intersection to the bottom carpark track about 12.45) until I suddenly barge into the middle of a party having lunch on the track. They've come up from the lower carpark and have found the first sunny clearing to stop (assumption: family group, the teenagers probably don't want to be here, good on them for getting this far, hope they take their rubbish out).
At the bottom of the spur (1.30) there's about half a Km of river travel to Daphne Hut and I'm hoping I can get through with dry feet as wet boots would be problematic in the snow. No dice. The Tukituki River is knee deep and frequent crossings are unavoidable. I note a couple of blokes wandering up from lower down the river but don't wait to chat (assumption: one has something long on his pack - could be hunters, but wearing wide brim hats and no camo. Not on the main route so likely to know what they are doing).
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| First look at the Tukituki River |
The river is pretty - I've heard about the condition of the Tukituki River once it has reached the plains, but here it is clear with a blue tint.
After a short gorgy section the true right side stream and triangle marking the spur to Howlett hut are obvious - Daphne hut is on the true left just after and not so obvious until you come near level with it. Someone has put a couple of pink tape markers in the river bed but I suspect they won't survive the next flood. It's a bit under 20 minutes from joining the river.
Daphne hut is a delightful A frame on a sunny terrace. I've always thought of A frames as being an inefficient use of ground space - however by bringing the eaves to the ground there is ample covered space for firewood or an overflow of trampers.
I sit on the step and eat my lunch in the sun. It would be sensible to stay here as it is unlikely that the wind will drop and snow melt enough overnight to make the ridge loop viable. But as there's no indication in the log that anyone has headed up to the biv I figure the view will be worth the effort.
Leaving about 2.25 it is less than 10 minute and a couple of river crossings (ankle deep) to the base of the spur. As expected, the lower slopes are mucky and steep with loose footing. But soon enough it turns into a good quality mossy trail in forest. I pause frequently on the climb - including to wring socks out in an attempt to dry my boots.
There's an old browse study test site on the way up - this is likely an old Forestry Service relic (pre 1987) - a tiny barbed wire enclosure to keep deer and goats out. The trees have grown around the wire and there's a spare coil still hanging on a branch.
With height, the wind becomes more evident again, and when the track breaks out of the bush there is a blast that knocks me side ways - also a view of a very exposed, and snowy Sawtooth Ridge. The ridge here is not too sharp so the bullying wind is inconvenient rather than dangerous but the route tomorrow is looking very unlikely.
A bit after 4 pm I reach the turn off to Rosvall track which drops steeply east to the river. It says an hour to the hut but I suspect that is an overestimate.
The track soon breaks out of the forest and I find my entire attention being applied to my footing. Around 4.30 I crest a knob and raise my head to see Tarn Biv - an orange dot tucked into a ripple in the ridge.
The loo is tucked just off the edge of the ridge and, like Toka Biv is somewhat exposed.
There are no substantive ridges between here and the plains so there is that slightly odd feeling of standing in tussock in a blasting westerly looking at orderly farmland far below stretching to the horizon.
On the other side of the ridge, stretching across the west is Sawtooth Ridge.
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| Ohuinga on right |
Tarn Biv is the standard two-mattresses-and-not-quite-enough-room-to-stand-up affair. With no other inhabitants it will be perfect for the night. According to the log the last visitors were a party of 7 from Wellington on 30 June.
I pull on a few layers and lie in the tussock in the afternoon sun looking at the view until it gets a bit too cool.
It's a noisy night with the wind but the Biv is well protected so it isn't buffeted much. In the morning the wind has swung a little more from the north and is, if anything stronger than yesterday. I've decided Sawtooth is not a goer before I'm out of bed.
Just after 6am I'm sitting on the step of the Biv in my sleeping bag, wrapped against the wind to watch the sunrise. There's a little bit of cloud on the horizon but it is promising to be a sunny day.
By 7 I'm heading out, well rugged up against the wind.
The wind tips me over a couple of times but I potter down the ridge getting to the bottom after about 1hr 10.
This time I remove my almost dry boots to cross the river. A pause at Daphne to complete the log (the two chaps from yesterday arvo came through five minutes after I left).
I remove boots again for the final crossing and although taking them off for the three crossings is time consuming, it's nice to know I'll have almost dry boots for the rest of the day. I start the 700m climb at 8.50 at a slow but steady pace with the morning sun filtering through the canopy.
Near the bush line a couple of trampers are coming down - this turns out to be the chaps from yesterday who spent the night at Howlett's Hut. They're older with a fishing rod (changed assumptions: probably know their way around, have respectable bush craft and respect for the bush, not hurrying but will be able to cover the ground when needed). They poked their nose up the ridge in the morning but decided that the snow was too deep and the wind to strong to brave the climb to Tiraha (1688m).
Out of the bush the track climbs for a while further through tussock and scrub with the odd wee patch of snow. At 10.25 I reach the ridge and a few minutes later Howletts Hut.
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| Northwest from hear Howletts - Tiraha on right |
The cheerful blue hut is tucked in beside the ridge. It belongs to Heretaunga Tramping Club who are doing a fine job of keeping it in a good state. The sun is streaming in and I take a leisurely early lunch hour, eventually leaving about 11.35.
The track along Daphne Ridge is a bit overgrown with tussock and low scrub; with the strong wind it makes for slowish progress. A rifle toting figure approaches and we meet in the lee of some scrub so stop for a chat - it's hunter number one, he's come from Longview and will be stopping the night at Howlett. He reports on the route ahead - watch for false trails into the saddle, it's windy, ridge on the other side is not so bad but a long climb. He also notes there's an Asian party following him that was at Longview.
He's seen nothing to shoot and has given up expecting to.
We head our ways and over the next few minutes the four members of the other party come past in fits and starts. I find that my assumptions are more stereo type - they probably don't know NZ environment very well and may be out of their depth - however, they're getting along fine and seem to have reasonable kit.
To the left of the range I can see the saddle I'm heading for.
The trail tops out at Taumatataua (1415m) then drops into a wee saddle that funnels the howling westerly. Past the saddle the track sidles then drops south east into the lee above the main saddle. It is suddenly still enough to hear my ears ringing from the wind.
A couple of younger hunters are sweating up the hill so I sit and wait as they approach (assumptions: younger - could be a bit gung-ho, may not be the best examples of the hunting breed). They're happy to stop and chat - they also lament the conditions, the lack of game and the weight of their 'walking sticks' (rifles). We exchange tips on the routes we have traversed and continue on our ways.
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| Looking back at the saddle |
Through the saddle the wind returns in force and I start the hot climb up the other side with a bit of assistance. At the top (1.05) is a sign for the spur route east down to Daphne Hut, then it is a long walk, climbing south to Otumore. The ridge is mostly wide with less scrub than Daphne Ridge.
At 2.10 I reach a sign marking where to drop to Pohangina Saddle or follow a poled route to the descent to Irongate Hut (or follow along Ngamoko Range where I came along a fortnight ago).
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| Looking back down the ridge |
At 2.50 the hut is basking in the sun and empty. The log indicates that the trampers from yesterday made it to Top Gorge and back ok. The hunters have left some food and cans of booze.
There's plenty of afternoon left so time to head down to Top Gorge Hut. The route isn't marked on the map so below are some photos and descriptions that might help should you be of a mind ...
There's an old sign a few meters further down the range from Longview Hut. At 3.30 it points me off the edge of the ridge to find a way through scattered scrub - I find myself on an eroding face with some warratahs and the odd cairn.
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| Looking back up towards the ridge. |
The trick seems to be not to stray to far left into some steep erosion gullies. Following the bare surface down leads towards a wee knob with bush on it.
A warratah marks where the trail drops right down to the wee creek.at a fork. There's a couple of cairns to mark the spot when you're coming up but these are not really needed as it is straight above a waterfall. It's less than 10 minutes down from the ridge.
There's a bit of a scramble down on the true right of the waterfall - it could be a little tricky grovelling up as there isn't a lot to hold onto. You're now in a narrow gully with steep sides.
A couple of minutes later there is another waterfall to scramble down on the right again.
A few minutes later again there is another small waterfall but look for a cairn in the grass on the right just before it which marks where a precarious trail grovels up, over and down the other side of a wee spur to avoid a high waterfall.
Another few minutes down stream and another waterfall is skirted on the left this time.
Finally, the main forks mark the end of the narrow headwaters section. It has taken less than half an hour from the ridge.
Coming up river there's a sheer face on the true left just before you reach the forks (take the true left branch.
A pretty wee moth has taken up residence and I carefully release it to the wilds of the woodshed.
Unsurprisingly, no one else turns up and I have the hut to myself.
The forecast for the next day is for rain so I get away by 7 am under grey skies. The river continues as usual for a while but soon starts getting a bit gorgy. There are a couple of points where you have to either get in deep, swim or clamber. There are supposed to be some traverses at key spots but I don't notice them and in all cases with a greater or lesser amount of acrobatics manage to clamber around close to the river without getting in above waist deep.
After about an hour, the end of the gorge section is very obvious, then it's just a long walk down river. The rain sets in.
On the way I come across two single whio. One bobs down river ahead of me until there's a wide pool and I can sidle past far enough away that s/he can drift back up river. It's always a bit of a worry that you'll inadvertently herd them out of their territory.
The river has a final surprise. I'm expecting the hut when I come to a sharp bend (left) with a deep pool between steep sides - there is no sidling, too deep to wade and I'm not keen on swimming. I suspect there is a bypass on the left up river that cuts off the whole bend but I can't be bothered going back to look. Instead, I scramble up through rotting trees over the ridge that blocks the river's course.
It's a little fraught as I have no idea how steep it is on the other side. As it turns out I have to sidle along a ways until I can climb down into the mouth of a good sized side stream.
After that it is easy going again to Leon Kinvig Hut about 9.50 so almost three hours travel. It's easy to identify as there is a low waterfall/cascade on the right.
The rain has eased but I'm saturated - I get inside out of the cold and stand on my raincoat so as not to leave large pools on the floor. A couple of parties have been through since my name in the log two weeks back - one pair coming through yesterday heading over to Makaretu Hut - my next destination. Around 10 am I head up the steep spur into the clag, wind and rain.
Near the bushline I bump in to two chaps coming down - sure enough they are the ones that came through LK yesterday and are on their way back from Makaretu Hut. They report that they came up the old track 'by accident' (not sure how you would manage that!) and that it's a bit easy to drift off but ok if you keep to the spur.
I should clarify. Last time through I was a bit surprised to come across two tracks from the ridge to Makaretu Hut - the northernmost is marked on the map, the southern isn't but I'm guessing it takes a more direct route down a spur directly to the hut. I'm thinking I'll take the longer, easier, newer route.
Above the bushline the wind is bowling into the ridge from the west. Most of the time the scrub provides reasonable protection and the track is wide and easy to follow. I potter along to the first track to Makaretu and just can't help myself - I have to take the more adventurous route.
The track drops off the ridge and immediately degenerates into an overgrown, slippery and poorly marked route. It clearly used to be good but it hasn't had any TLC for a while. It is not too bad to follow until the lower slopes where the spur broadens and I lose it once, twice and then completely. No drama though, I just potter along until I inevitably spit out beside the hut - about 12.10 pm.
The hut sits at the edge of a clearing and has options of heading up stream to Ngamoko road end, the two routes to the ridge or head down stream. It's in good order but I forego the shelter and have lunch on the deck, in the interests of keeping the floor dry.
About 12.40 I drop from the clearing to cross the side stream and briefly follow the track to the ridge - just before it starts climbing there is a sign and a good track that heads down valley (i.e. you don't have to follow the stream right from the hut).
There are frequent wee terraces and a trail across most of them so it is fairly quick going down valley. As I go, the clouds start to break and patches of sun come through. Just before the reaching the North Branch of the river there is a large orange triangle and a sign on the right. This marks a sidle track that climbs quickly away from the river than fossicks along high above it.
At one point it breaks into a grassy boggy area that has been well trampled by game. The trick is to angle up slope to the right and the continuation of the trail is soon found. Soon after the track starts drifting gently down on a wide track before popping out at a paddock and the Happy Daze Hut. About an hour from Makaretu Hut and 10 minutes from the junction.
This hut has definitely seen happier daze. It's pretty rudimentary inside but gets a bit of use and, judging from the log - abuse. It seems that there is four wheel drive access.
I take a break and read, then fill in the log before leaving about 1.55 to retrace my steps to the river junction.
After that it is a long wander up the North Branch. The river bed is often wide and open and it's now a hot sunny afternoon
About 3.25 I see an orange triangle on the true left and about the same time see another orange hut on the true right - Awatere. I spread wet kit in the sun to dry as I fill in the log and grab a bite. A young couple wander up - they're from Auckland and have just come in from the carpark - less than an hour and a half away. I'm once more surprised about how good a condition a hut this close to a road end is in. They're staying here the night so will have a pleasant afternoon ahead of them in the sun by the river.
I pack away my almost dry wet/cold weather gear, don sun screen and head across the river about 3.40. A very well made track dives into forest, crosses a creek then starts to climb on an increasingly open spur.
The views down valley open up as I climb and the spur up to Longview is obvious. I think I can see the hut but there's a bit of cloud in the west.
To the south and east are some very barren looking hills. They remind me of Molesworth where a scab weed has taken over and almost nothing else grows on the tops. Here it looks like the soil has just blown away.
All parts of the trip were interesting and although the conditions were a bit challenging at times, it was nice to have views from the tops. The rivers provided most entertaining travel. All up, a great bit of real-estate with plenty of scope for adventure.
A warratah marks where the trail drops right down to the wee creek.at a fork. There's a couple of cairns to mark the spot when you're coming up but these are not really needed as it is straight above a waterfall. It's less than 10 minutes down from the ridge.
There's a bit of a scramble down on the true right of the waterfall - it could be a little tricky grovelling up as there isn't a lot to hold onto. You're now in a narrow gully with steep sides.
A couple of minutes later there is another waterfall to scramble down on the right again.
A few minutes later again there is another small waterfall but look for a cairn in the grass on the right just before it which marks where a precarious trail grovels up, over and down the other side of a wee spur to avoid a high waterfall.
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| The trail comes down on the true right. |
Another few minutes down stream and another waterfall is skirted on the left this time.
Finally, the main forks mark the end of the narrow headwaters section. It has taken less than half an hour from the ridge.
Coming up river there's a sheer face on the true left just before you reach the forks (take the true left branch.
By all accounts it is now just a wander down river to the hut. And that's pretty accurate - I even keep my feet dry.
A bit after 4.10 (40 mins from the ridge) there's a scree slip on the left - there's a large cairn near the base that marks something, possibly a route to the ridge although there's nothing obvious on the map.
After about another 10 minutes a large stream joins from the right. The river gets larger and it's a pleasant wander in the afternoon sun with some decent flats. About half a K from the hut a couple of whio whistle at my presence and it's pretty cool to pause and watch them mucking about in the current.
5.20, Top Gorge Hut is empty and I've got time for a much needed wash.
A bit after 4.10 (40 mins from the ridge) there's a scree slip on the left - there's a large cairn near the base that marks something, possibly a route to the ridge although there's nothing obvious on the map.
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| Cairn |
5.20, Top Gorge Hut is empty and I've got time for a much needed wash.
A pretty wee moth has taken up residence and I carefully release it to the wilds of the woodshed.
Unsurprisingly, no one else turns up and I have the hut to myself.
The forecast for the next day is for rain so I get away by 7 am under grey skies. The river continues as usual for a while but soon starts getting a bit gorgy. There are a couple of points where you have to either get in deep, swim or clamber. There are supposed to be some traverses at key spots but I don't notice them and in all cases with a greater or lesser amount of acrobatics manage to clamber around close to the river without getting in above waist deep.
After about an hour, the end of the gorge section is very obvious, then it's just a long walk down river. The rain sets in.
On the way I come across two single whio. One bobs down river ahead of me until there's a wide pool and I can sidle past far enough away that s/he can drift back up river. It's always a bit of a worry that you'll inadvertently herd them out of their territory.
The river has a final surprise. I'm expecting the hut when I come to a sharp bend (left) with a deep pool between steep sides - there is no sidling, too deep to wade and I'm not keen on swimming. I suspect there is a bypass on the left up river that cuts off the whole bend but I can't be bothered going back to look. Instead, I scramble up through rotting trees over the ridge that blocks the river's course.
It's a little fraught as I have no idea how steep it is on the other side. As it turns out I have to sidle along a ways until I can climb down into the mouth of a good sized side stream.
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| Waterfall opposite LK hut |
After that it is easy going again to Leon Kinvig Hut about 9.50 so almost three hours travel. It's easy to identify as there is a low waterfall/cascade on the right.
The rain has eased but I'm saturated - I get inside out of the cold and stand on my raincoat so as not to leave large pools on the floor. A couple of parties have been through since my name in the log two weeks back - one pair coming through yesterday heading over to Makaretu Hut - my next destination. Around 10 am I head up the steep spur into the clag, wind and rain.
Near the bushline I bump in to two chaps coming down - sure enough they are the ones that came through LK yesterday and are on their way back from Makaretu Hut. They report that they came up the old track 'by accident' (not sure how you would manage that!) and that it's a bit easy to drift off but ok if you keep to the spur.
I should clarify. Last time through I was a bit surprised to come across two tracks from the ridge to Makaretu Hut - the northernmost is marked on the map, the southern isn't but I'm guessing it takes a more direct route down a spur directly to the hut. I'm thinking I'll take the longer, easier, newer route.
Above the bushline the wind is bowling into the ridge from the west. Most of the time the scrub provides reasonable protection and the track is wide and easy to follow. I potter along to the first track to Makaretu and just can't help myself - I have to take the more adventurous route.
The track drops off the ridge and immediately degenerates into an overgrown, slippery and poorly marked route. It clearly used to be good but it hasn't had any TLC for a while. It is not too bad to follow until the lower slopes where the spur broadens and I lose it once, twice and then completely. No drama though, I just potter along until I inevitably spit out beside the hut - about 12.10 pm.
The hut sits at the edge of a clearing and has options of heading up stream to Ngamoko road end, the two routes to the ridge or head down stream. It's in good order but I forego the shelter and have lunch on the deck, in the interests of keeping the floor dry.
About 12.40 I drop from the clearing to cross the side stream and briefly follow the track to the ridge - just before it starts climbing there is a sign and a good track that heads down valley (i.e. you don't have to follow the stream right from the hut).
There are frequent wee terraces and a trail across most of them so it is fairly quick going down valley. As I go, the clouds start to break and patches of sun come through. Just before the reaching the North Branch of the river there is a large orange triangle and a sign on the right. This marks a sidle track that climbs quickly away from the river than fossicks along high above it.
At one point it breaks into a grassy boggy area that has been well trampled by game. The trick is to angle up slope to the right and the continuation of the trail is soon found. Soon after the track starts drifting gently down on a wide track before popping out at a paddock and the Happy Daze Hut. About an hour from Makaretu Hut and 10 minutes from the junction.
This hut has definitely seen happier daze. It's pretty rudimentary inside but gets a bit of use and, judging from the log - abuse. It seems that there is four wheel drive access.
I take a break and read, then fill in the log before leaving about 1.55 to retrace my steps to the river junction.
After that it is a long wander up the North Branch. The river bed is often wide and open and it's now a hot sunny afternoon
About 3.25 I see an orange triangle on the true left and about the same time see another orange hut on the true right - Awatere. I spread wet kit in the sun to dry as I fill in the log and grab a bite. A young couple wander up - they're from Auckland and have just come in from the carpark - less than an hour and a half away. I'm once more surprised about how good a condition a hut this close to a road end is in. They're staying here the night so will have a pleasant afternoon ahead of them in the sun by the river.
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| Awatere |
I pack away my almost dry wet/cold weather gear, don sun screen and head across the river about 3.40. A very well made track dives into forest, crosses a creek then starts to climb on an increasingly open spur.
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| Looking back down the valley |
The views down valley open up as I climb and the spur up to Longview is obvious. I think I can see the hut but there's a bit of cloud in the west.
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| Saddle just out of sight - spur to Longview runs up to left |
To the south and east are some very barren looking hills. They remind me of Molesworth where a scab weed has taken over and almost nothing else grows on the tops. Here it looks like the soil has just blown away.
The track reaches the ridge then potters along into the teeth of the wind before dropping to the saddle and carpark - 47 minutes from Awatere Hut.
Postscript
It was a shame not to get around Sawtooth and Black Ridges - but it would have been foolish to try. The Ruahine huts once again prove to be well looked after and comfortable with the exception of Happy Daze which is a bit older.All parts of the trip were interesting and although the conditions were a bit challenging at times, it was nice to have views from the tops. The rivers provided most entertaining travel. All up, a great bit of real-estate with plenty of scope for adventure.
I was at Howletts less than a week after you passed through. Got better conditions though - strong cold wind but quite manageable. Less snow too. Also saw 5 deer in the Tirana area.
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