Cattle Ridge loop

It has been quite the week, from four hours at the top of Wainui Hill in the wee small hours, feeling the aftershocks roll through, to a day watching the turbid Hutt River crawl up the stop bank. A bit of a tramp is surely indicated.

There's a stretch of the Ruamahanga River that I have been meaning to explore. The major river systems in the east of the Tararuas trace a line from Eketehuna to Kaitoke and I haven't got around to travelling the section from Roaring Stag Hut to the bend at Cleft Creek. It's not marked on the topo map but it's a known route and there's a reference in Tararua Footprints, albeit a little light in detail.

This weekend there was only one day available for a trip (after visiting Iona's most impressive weaving exhibition on Saturday), so I figured with an early start I could build a day trip around an exploration down river.

What:   Day trip
Where: Ruamahanga - Cattle Ridge Loop from Putara
Who:    Solo
Why:    Check out Ruamahanga River and Cattle Ridge
When: Sunday 20 November 2016
Map:   Map

The alarm goes at 4am after four hours sleep and I pour myself into the car for the 2 hour drive. The Putara Road End is tucked into the hills behind Eketahuna at the head waters of the Mangatainoka River. It's been a bit of a mecca for trampers over the years as the kick off point for the SK (look it up!). Unlike the hob-nailed boots that have walked this way before, I have the good fortune of not having to catch the rail car and a taxi to get here.

Morning at Putara Road End

The sun is well down the hills at 0640 as I leave the car at a relatively crowded car park (4 cars). The track is good along the river, up to the junction then the long amble down the ridge to the flats near Roaring Stag Hut.

Foot prints on the track indicate that there are a likely to be a few people at the hut. Sure enough there are two parties in when I arrive, an hour 45 after leaving the car. It's shaping up to be a sunny day.

The view from Roaring Stag

From here it's tiger country. I follow the track down to the Manuka Flats where the Cattle Ridge Track hives off west. At first I try to find tracks across the flats, but pretty soon the flats run out and it's a question of picking ones way along the river bank. The rain during the week means the river is up somewhat, so there's a bit of wading required when it carves in against the bank. There's quite a few slips along the way, some of which have been recently active. At times there are terraces that can be followed, but I don't see any evidence of trails or pink ribbons and inevitably end up in the river again.

Another slip

With the river up it's a bit slower going than expected, with a few sketchy scrambles on unstable erosion scarps required to avoid deep bits. Eventually the river enters a short gorgy section. There is no way I'm going to try to cross, as the river is deep and swift. There are enough hand holds on the rocky bluff and foot holds under water (no idea how deep it is) to clamber and float along the edge and around the corner - keeping well clear of the main current.

On the other side I find a slip as indicated in Tararua Footprints and scramble up. However, I find a large creek, which I quickly realise can't be Cleft Creek, so have to drop down another slip to the river - disturbing a deer on the way.

Random stream that is not Cleft Creek

Shortly after, yet another slip presents and I nip up to a series of old terraces. It's pretty easy travel but I can't find any indication of tracks. I potter along keeping the distant sound of the river on my left until I come across what is undeniably Cleft Creek. Undeniable as it is at the bottom of a large ... well, cleft. It's quite pretty, with clear water tumbling between steep mossy banks amidst mature forest. A few deep pools discourage me from looking too hard for a way down. Somewhere on the opposite side is the main track in from the Ruamahanga Road end.

It takes a while to follow up stream on the old terrace before I find a route down just before an old erosion scarp.

Another slip

It's further still before I look back and see an orange triangle. At some point the track has joined the creek. Two minutes later the route leaves Cleft Creek and starts climbing a side stream. It's taken about two and a half hours from Roaring Stag Hut. I think it would be somewhat quicker with a lower river, less chest high water, and fewer unnecessary excursions into the bush.

Cleft Creek looking down stream - first orange triangle on right somewhere 

Junction on Cleft Creek - route heads right

The side stream rapidly becomes a lot smaller but it is fairly easy and open travel. Marking is a little variable, and there are a few points where a little vegetation clearance or another marker wouldn't go amiss. I rock past the point where the track hives off up a spur towards the saddle, finding it beside an almost invisible tributary when I return looking for the last marker.

The track to Cow Saddle is also poorly marked in one section, where it traverses around the slope to the final short climb to the saddle. Approaching the saddle though, the ground trail is clear and in the saddle itself the turn off for Cattle Ridge is elegantly indicated by a classic old wooden sign.

Cow Saddle

It's about 11:40 so I figure time is going ok and there's no need to take the bail-out option back to the Ruamahanga Road end. There's a small matter of a 700m climb, though. It becomes rapidly clear that there hasn't been much track maintenance through here for a while. The track is covered in wind-fall, most of it small stuff that would be easily cleared with hand saws, and the occasional large tree that's created a bit of a mess.

Where's the track?

I've never been up this track before. It climbs steadily and is pretty easy to follow. It slowly opens unfamiliar perspectives on familiar Tararua features. Shortly before leaving the bush line I'm a little surprised to cross an active little stream - it looks big enough to possibly even be present in summer.

Down the Waingawa River - Cow Saddle to the left

Cow Saddle through to Te Mara on the horizon
Blue Hut would be just to the left somewhere

The track exits the bush line and works up through the scrub into tussock country. The bare tops start to dominate the horizon: Table Ridge to the south-west, gradually revealing more and more of Tarn Ridge at the headwaters of the Waingawa, the bush clad Blue Range in the east and Tawhero in the north east.

Spur up to Cattle Ridge - Ruamahanga River runs towards Mt Bruce (right of centre)

The wind gets a good run up out of the Waingawa head waters and slams into the spur, but then eases as the track climbs in the lee of Waingawa.

Approaching the top - looking north along Cattle Ridge

Approaching the top - SSW to Waingawa
That could be Banister behind?

Um, I think that's Table Ridge on the left

An hour and a half after leaving the saddle, Cattle Ridge is as round-topped as the map promises. Today it is quite clear to the east but the cloud lurks high above and thick around the peaks on the main range to the west; a strong cold wind cuts across (WSW?). We should stay clear today but I could imagine it being pretty bleak up here in clag.

Down the Ruamahanga

The top - Waingawa to Bannister on left, Dundas to the right with its head in the clouds

It's easy travel but cold enough that after a bit I give up and put my rain coat on - although the sun is coming through the wind is pushing me around a bit. The ridge top undulates along but I am waiting for the notch between Pukekino and Pukeroa. It is apparently about 100m down and up through tussock and spiky Spaniard.

Further along Cattle Ridge looking back 

Probably Bannister

There seems to be more of a foot track towards the east side of the ridge and down into the notch - not much though. There's a bit of scrub and quite a bit of Spaniard - some of it brown and tough, some green, soft and more flexible, but still spiky. I try to avoid stepping on it - partly because running shoes don't give much protection - but also I have a bit of a soft spot for it. We have few enough plants and animals that bite, sting or poison that we need to take care of those that do.

In the notch looking back

In the notch looking forward

Annnnd, looking across the notch to Pukekino

Cloud on the main range - spur to Dundas Hut almost visible just above shoulder

First view of Cattle Ridge Hut (dot on spur in middle)

Once the route from Dundas Hut joins Cattle Ridge there are markers, cairns and a ground trail so it is quicker going. Soon after the track heads off the east side of the ridge and down to the hut. There are a bunch of foot prints in the mud so someone has been through today.

Main Range panorama from near the end of Cattle Ridge
East Peak at right end - clouds magically gone again

It's taken a bit under an hour and a half to traverse the ridge to the hut and it's nice to get in out of the cool. This hut has been the source of a bit of controversy, with plans to remove it the subject of some criticism. There's a new wood shed, supplies for repairs and a new deck - slow going but a good start.

The log book indicates that a group of runners have been through doing the Dundas Circuit in a day - quite a trip.

Cattle Ridge Hut - not that pretty but there's a bit of work being done.

Next is the knee crunching descent to the Ruamahanga, almost 700m below.  It's a nice wee track down through scrub, then into forest, arriving at the river an hour after arriving at Cattle Ridge Hut.

Roaring Stag way below
Probably Tawhero behind 

Roaring Stag Hut

It's around 3.30 as I wander into the hut. An older couple have come in for a couple of days and have already read the log book, as they ask if I'm the bloke that had signed through earlier. They look set for a good couple of days with great weather in a comfortable, empty hut. Look most old school trampers they are thoughtful about their environment - he asks whether he should take a hand saw up Cattle Ridge tomorrow (not needed) and has already noted some of the rubbish around the hut that he will carry out.

After a short chat I head off, with the afternoon sun filtering through the canopy. It's a bit over an hour to the junction, then about 45 minutes to the road end I bump into a couple that have come down from Herepai Hut, after deciding not to head up and over to the Mangahao River because of the weather on Saturday.

The Junction

I wasn't expecting to be getting back to the car in daylight so it feels like a bonus to be hitting the road around 5.30pm.

I can feel that I've had a fairly active day and am sporting a few more minor bruises, scrapes and punctures, but nowhere near the beating from some of the recent bush bashing trips. However, it's a few days before I stop making old man noises every time I go to stand up.

The river section was a little more complicated than I expected, due to the high flow and a few unnecessary scrambles. I wouldn't like to do it in the dark. The track up to Cow Saddle needs a little attention to the markers, and the track up to Cattle Ridge definitely needs a tidy up. Cattle Ridge was really enjoyable - the views are great and it's a nice amble on a good day.  Don't expect a beaten track though. The track down is steep but pretty good and the track out is good apart from a fair amount of winter mud up to the junction.

A good day trip.

Aorangi Range - Southern Crossing

Another rubbish forecast for the weekend so this time I line up a trip to the Aorangis. The range lurks in the south east corner of the North Island, a block of rugged hills frequented by hunters and skirted by the bleak south coast seas. The main settlement is Ngawi, which, with its back to the hills, looks over a rank of rusting bulldozers on the grey beach to the sea, where its fishers still seem to make a living. Most Wellingtonians hardly know it exists but there's a pretty staunch community that lives, or spends weekends, as well as a good number of tourists (they're the ones in flattened tents in the camping ground wondering how they hell they ended up here).

What:    Aorangi crossing on marked tracks for a change
Where:  Putangirua Pinnacles to Mangatoetoe Stream
Why:     Check out the area and trial some new kit
Who:     Solo
When:   12 November 2016
Map:      Map
DOC website:  DOC

Parts of the park have been logged and there is still stock on a lot of land that shouldn't rightly be farmed. The coast is famous for large chunks of it falling into the sea, and also for providing landscapes for various Peter Jackson movies - remember the zombie monkey that bit Bill Ralston?

The track of interest runs through the park across a number of ridges and stream catchments. For a through trip a drop off is required (or take a bike and hide it somewhere like the DoC accommodation at Kopi - which I seriously thought about). The support crew agrees to get up at 4.30am and drive for two hours through heavy rain in order to ferry me from the DoC road end car park at Mangatoetoe Stream, a few kms short of the Cape Palliser lighthouse, back to the Pinnacles.

The rain has settled in with a vengeance but the road crosses all the streams I will be crossing as they hit the coast, and none look that bad.

Putangirua Road end - at the campsite

Traveling light

At the pinnacles I reluctantly leave the warm car and pose briefly beside the signpost.

I'm trialing a new light weight pack (from the Taihape outdoor shop of course) with the minimum of food and gear for an overnight trip. The bush cocoon is also thrown in, in case I get stuck on the non-hut side of a stream. It's all below the tops on marked tracks, so I've gone with running shoes and a lighter weight coat.

The track passes four nicely spaced huts, which I'm looking forward to as good milestones to mark progress - and as indicators of the type of people that frequent the park.

At a little before 7.30am I follow the track to the Pinnacles Lookout, up through manuka and regenerating bush. The clouds are low, so there is only the odd glimpse of the eroding pinnacles, and they are not spectacular.

Add caption

It's impossible to miss the right turn where the track intersects the ridge. There's mature beech and I'm now on an old vehicle track.  It climbs gently up to the top of a knob, then peters out with the foot track following markers along the ridge south and east. It's not cold but the cloud is settled and it rains periodically.

A glimpse of pinnacles

You really can't miss it

The bush is quite open with a few grassy patches. I assume it was mostly cleared for farmland in the past. The track tops out at 700m and is not particularly note worthy - it takes a sharp right and starts dropping. Looking at the map, it looks like heading left would link across to the Aorangi Crossing MTB track to Sutherland Hut, plus some other interesting looking options.

On the way up, warming up despite the weather

It's quite nice to be tramping without having branches in your face. This gets me thinking about what makes a track difficult. Someone has probably already done this, but I idly speculate about the elements for a grading scheme: surface (stability, slipperiness, rocks, roots, humus), steepness (including step size), exposure (width, drop off each side), knee zone (vegetation that hides the track surface), face zone (stuff that occludes vision and knocks your glasses off), and vegetation (stuff that you have to push through).

The track drops gradually than reaches around 500m and drops steeply to pop out suddenly at Washpool Hut in a clearing above the valley bottom. It is somewhat reminiscent of going down the east side of the Papatahi Track.

Washpool is an old but tidy hut. No roof water but a stream nearby and plenty of Ongaonga. It gives the impression of being reasonably looked after with a log bog that has been there for almost 9 years.

Washpool Hut, nestled into its clearing

It's a bit before 10am so it has taken about 2 and a half hours from the Pinnacles. Time for a bite to eat and to check the map.

The track drops the last 50m or so to the stream, which is up but not particularly turbid. A short way upstream the next climb starts steeply.  This is the second highest climb of around 500m.

My nav brain is well and truly off, and the track is clear enough that I tuck the map away and enjoy the walk. There is an interesting section of beech of the same age: the thin trunks are competing for canopy space and the ground is completely covered by stacks of poles from those that couldn't make it.

At 11.45am the orange Pararaki Hut emerges out of the bush. It's been about 1:50 from Washpool Hut and I'm thinking it's near the halfway point, so it's looking good to get out in daylight.  The hut is not too flash from the outside, but again is tidy for its age with fairly light use judging by the log book. It sits in a clearing on a terrace above the Pararaki Stream and I could well imagine waking to morning mists after a comfortable night.

Pararaki Hut 1966

The track crosses the stream, which is almost knee deep, then scrambles steeply for a 100m before working its way up the headwaters of a side catchment, crossing a couple of active little streams cascading through the bush.  The saddle scrapes in at barely over 400m before dropping and sidling along track that is sometimes a little ropy under foot.

The descent looks fairly undistinguished on the map, but surprises me with a most beautiful little passage of trail.  After the sidle the track starts dropping down a knife edge ridge through mature beech and looking down on Rewarewa. On each side of the narrow foot trail is a steep, deep plummet to streams 100m below. Te Urewera-like mists shroud the valley sides. Underfoot the gritty track provides good purchase and is flecked with tiny beech leaves.  On this day, in this weather, it is a place of distilled perfection, like a painstakingly crafted bonsai garden.

It's a shame to reach the bottom even though the stream itself is delightful enough, providing ample camping spots on grassy terraces. And nettles. A kilometre and a half (or so) later I'm pretty much ready for the next hut which is Kawakawa.  The weather is as wet as ever and is getting colder. It feels like the southerly is coming in.

Kawakawa Hut

Around an hour 20 after leaving Pararaki Hut, Kawakawa Hut shows all the symptoms of being too accessible. There are large grassy flats around it and vehicle tracks indicating 4WD access via the Otakaha Stream valley. The hut looks like it sometimes gets a rough time and the last visitors were clearly convinced that beer cans burn, so you don't have to carry them out.

After the obligatory pause for a photo, bite, entry in the log book etc I've cooled considerably and am eager to get away again. The track sets off at good pace up a 4WD track into a rapidly narrowing stream valley running SSE.

The stream has quite a different nature to the streams I've seen so far. At this point it is rushing through a narrow solid rock channel and is of sufficient size and power that I elect to scramble across a log for the first crossing. The rock has variations in colour with greens and pinks that are brought out nicely by the rain.  

Handy bridge

It takes a little while to get used to the stream travel. The track sidles around some bluffs then drops to the stream bed. I waste a bit of time looking for markers before clicking that you make your way as best you can, with a weather eye out for markers that indicate an easier line. There are a couple of significant junctions that are well marked, and in a few places someone has used tape to indicate the paths of least resistance. Although the stream is up, and initially a bit of care is required, it is well within my comfort zone.

The climb out of the stream is a very steep scramble up a spur, which eventually sidles up beside a massive erosion wash out to become a somewhat scrambly sidle to the last low saddle (370m) and down into the head waters of the Mangatoetoe Stream - the home straight.

I follow the stream down (it's pretty clear considering the amount of rain) crossing and recrossing, following terraces, and forgetting to avoid nettles. The rain comes and goes and the wind, although not strong, is in my face.

After a short section away from the stream, I rejoin it to be surprised to find it has turned a startling milky white. There is clearly a bit of active erosion in one of the side streams. It has also increased in size and is looking like quite a different proposition.

Mangatoetoe Hut - a bit damp

Shortly after, about 2 hours from Kawakawa Hut, I come across Mangatoetoe Hut. It, like Kawakawa, suffers from the attention of dick heads. Similarly, it has 4WD access up the Mangatoetoe Stream.

It's supposed to be an hour out from here but I'm not so sure. I have a suspicion that before long the stream will be a river and too energetic to risk. A fairly old sign in the hut says there is an unmarked track on the true left but I'm a bit skeptical, given the age and the fairly active looking nature of the stream.

On leaving the hut, the obvious route runs to the stream (may as well call it a river now) and I see some pink tape on the other side. It doesn't look too bad here, wide enough to dissipate the energy of the flow - it's just that you can't see a centimetre into the milk. A handy branch turns out to be unnecessary as I edge across, watching the surface for clues as to what's happening beneath. On the other side there are stoat and possum traps, ribbons and a good track, that might be from stock.

Three sheep trot off ahead but around the corner this side of the river runs out. The sheep take to the water to avoid me and I note that they have no trouble. There is plenty of old flood debris around so another branch is called into action and again the crossing is much easier than expected.

This continues for a while with some sections of 4WD track providing very good going. However it reaches a point where I'm not game to cross so I take to bashing through lupin, then scrub, and trying to find stock tracks.

All the while the strengthening southerly is chucking rain up the valley and I'm looking for signs that the next bluff will open to a view to the sea. I'm somewhat resigned to it being a wee while yet, and am tucked into the true left working around the foot of a spur, when to my delight I am suddenly looking at the front of a disreputable red car.

I make the transition inside as rapidly as possible and turn the heater on full.   At about 4.30pm, it's almost exactly 9 hours after leaving the pinnacles and plenty of daylight left. Don't know what I was worried about.

'View' up valley from inside the DRC (disreputable red car) 

The last order of business for the trip is to stop in at the Pirinoa Store for a pie and drink.  I don't really need it but it's a bit of a tradition now, and it's a small token of support to an important local service. They are getting ready to close up for the evening after a reasonably busy day.

Post Script

This is the first fully on-trail trip I've done in a while and I was surprised how genuinely enjoyable it was. I was expecting it to be a slightly shabby wee park not yet recovered from the indignities and damage of logging and farming. Sure you have to pass the scars of land mismanagement to get in, but it is thoroughly delightful once you do. It doesn't offer the scale or heights of the Tararuas, but then the Tararuas can't hold a candle to South Westland.

The huts are great - full of character and mostly well looked after. It's just a crap shoot as to whether the dick heads have been through the 4WD accessible ones before you.  The tracks are a little variable. I have no complaints about them but some will find them a bit of a challenge. DoC does get a little coy about markers in a few places but if you're keeping half an eye on the map you can generally pretty quickly work out where to look for the next one.

The bush and scenery is a delight and I didn't even get to see the views which are apparently quite impressive. My spot for the Aorangis is softer than it was and I already have in mind a few more adventures that might be had.

The gear was all good. The shoes were pretty light for the terrain which means your feet get a bit sorer than in boots (after a few hardish weekends they both felt like they had stress fractures). The Tatonka Spot 30 Pack did the job - comfortable enough and just big enough - I was conscious I was stuffing it a little bit. I don't think it is tough enough to handle full on bush bashing but that's not what I will be using it for.

My Macpac jacket was good - can't remember what its called - it's orange and has a short length zip, is lighter and shorter than my proper raincoat but it was fine for the conditions: below the tops, very wet but not too windy.

The body held up okay. Any gripes are the result of accumulating wear over recent trips including somewhat sore feet, the still numb left thigh and fading bruises from being beaten up by the scrub between Matthews and Papatahi. The nettle stings are briefly irritating but nothing more.

Mt Matthews to Papatahi Crossing

Another rainy forecast so another weekend that a trip to the tops around Mitre Peak is not a goer. It's starting to feel like I'm running out of plan Bs. The Orongorongo River is normally not too bad after rain so I work out a trip that takes in a chunk of new track, as well as a bit of a bash through tiger country.

What:    Mix of on-track and nav.
Where:  Orongorongos: Mt Matthews and Papatahi
Why:     Check out some tracks and fill in a gap on the Rimutaka Range
Who:     Solo
When:   5 November 2016
Map:     Map

At 6.40am the cheerfully named Sunny Grove in Wainuiomata is predictably quiet. I leave the car at the curb hoping that no-one decides that it is either a derelict for towing, or sets fire to it as a jolly Guy Fawkes prank. 

The route I've planned is a 500m climb following the Whakanui Track over the ridges from the back of Wainuiomata to the Orongorongo River, climb 800m to Mt Matthews then navigate the jagged ridge line north to Papatahi, descend to the Orongorongo River again to bash up to the East Whakanui Track to cross back across the ridges to Wainuiomata. I'm carrying a bivy tent and supplies for a night out on the way.

A discrete DoC sign board indicates the way to the Whakanui Track and I'm soon out of suburbia and climbing through bush. 40 minutes later, breaks in the cover give views across hills patched with sun and cloud shadows towards the Hutt. 

North west over Wainuiomata 

Kiwi country

Near the top, signs put up by a local trust provide a friendly reminder about the programme that has reintroduced kiwi to these hills. You can only hope that the locals are careful about their dogs, because Sunny Grove is less than 45 minutes away.

Whakanui Track follows the ridge between Whakanui Creek and Turere Stream. It is pleasant going on the ridge top, with the clag lurking and the rain holding off. This part of the range is somewhat nondescript. It lurks shyly between the harbour edge hills and the more dramatic main Rimutaka Range, with its highest point a modest 800m. But the bush is regenerating nicely, trapping programmes are making inroads on the predators, and if you're around at the right time of day the call of kiwi once again echo through the low valleys. On a clear day, it can also reward with rare snippets of views across the harbour and the Wellington hills.

At 497 the Track leaves the ridge and drops down a spur to the river. I imagine the rest of the ridge down to the Turere Lodge is completely navigable and probably used for trapping.  Just before the valley floor, a gap shows Mt Matthews with its distinctive erosion scars and a puff of cloud on top.

Mt Matthews with its head in the clouds -
my route along the ridge to the left

About 2:10 after setting out I'm at the bottom and contemplating how to cross the Orongorongo River with dry feet. The flow is pretty modest so I opt for the one-boot-hop. This involves selecting a suitable stretch of river and, after removing one boot, hoping daintily across resting boot-clad foot on handy rocks whilst the naked foot takes it's chances in the cold water. It works in that I have dry boots for the climb up Mt Matthews, but I don't recommend it.

This is the first time I've seen water flowing at the mouth of the Matthews Stream - normally the water has drained into the shingle fan well up the gully. Still, it has that slightly odd characteristic of getting bigger as you follow it up.

No-one seems to have been up this way yet this morning and I potter on up enjoying the quiet and the bush, and frequent pauses for breath. 3:15 from Wainui and the clearing above South Saddle is a welcome stop. The weather is turning out pretty much perfect - no wind and overcast.

South Saddle, Welly in the distance and McKerrow behind the hat.

20 minutes later there's time for a pause for yet another forlorn attempt to capture the gnarled, muffled softness of goblin forest.

Beech forest, Mt Matthews

10 minutes later the balcony gives the first view of the Wairarapa and a glimpse of the ridge north. But there's a better view of what comes next a bit further along.

View from the balcony 

There's a route through there somewhere ... north towards Papatahi

Just over 4 hours after leaving the car I've navigated the slips on the back of Mt Matthews to be rewarded by that stunning vista across Palliser Bay.

Lake Onoke, Palliser Bay and the Aorangi Range beyond (more about those hills next week)

Now things get interesting. I have no idea what the ridge will be like - the map promises it will be dramatic and the vegetation indicates it will be tough. From what I've seen so far it looks like it will be both. There's a sign at the top pointing to north saddle and I scramble into the scrub to see what the route down is like.

The route drops 200m off Mt Matthews into a saddle, and someone has thoughtfully marked the way with wee orange triangles and cut away the more annoying branches. It makes it somewhat easier but it is still steep and treacherous: a lot of the branches are rotten and the ground is pretty loose in places. I'm quite comfortable but I hope no-one follows the markers that isn't up to this type of travel.

On the way down I note an orange tent in a clearing on point 616 and wonder idly if there are hunters about. The markers drop me into the first wee saddle and a view down one of the eroded gullies towards the coast.

Typical south coast eroding gully -
headwaters of Corner Creek

There's a small bushy knob to negotiate in the saddle, and as I make way up a series of nearby rifle shots boom and echo around the steep gullies. I quickly work out that they are coming from the other side of the knob, so I'm not in the direct line of fire, but it's a little unnerving.

Letting out some loud whistles and checking that my orange cap is at its brightest angle I edge around the knob and cautiously check out the other side. The shots have stopped but I can't see anyone - not surprising - that's the general idea when hunting. However, a low whistle confirms that I've been seen so I make good pace to get along the ridge and out of the area, stopping for a couple of snaps on the way of course.

From the knob looking at the next section of ridge

The other side of the knob reveals another saddle with a sharply eroding top and some tricky little scrambles. One option is to straddle the knife edge and wriggle inelegantly along, but an orange marker indicates that some of the apparently crumbly face is a bit more stable than it appears.

Looking back at the knob with Mt Matthews behind

The other side of the scramble puts me on the ridge above the 616 spur, and I come across three hunters and a dog relaxing on the track. They are the owners of the tent and the shots. We chat for a bit.  They've come up one of the streams from the south coast, pinged some deer yesterday, and were just potting at some goats when I came through. They're a little surprised at the distance I'm planning to cover and, as always, I'm amazed by the weight they are carrying. Discussing their route out, I'm surprised that they intend to follow the streams, whereas I would stick to the ridges.

I leave them to it and head on through North Saddle. The markers continue for a while but then dive west into the gully. Probably dropping into Matthews Stream. After this point there is little indication that people come this way although they surely must.

Looking south from North Saddle

It's a bit of a grovel up out of the saddle with little indication that anything over three foot tall travels through the bush hereabouts. A goat trots away in front, in confirmation of the theory. To make it even more enjoyable, two of my favourite plants are in plentiful supply: bush lawyer and ongaonga.

It's quite tricky travel now - there is a mix of forest and scrub and it is frequently difficult to work out exactly where the ridge runs.

Making some progress - Papatahi in the distance
Probably from around 830

Looking south, Orongorongo River on right

The mixed scrub and forest is draining travel, the animal trails are often over loose or boggy ground and there are frequent low and rotten branches. Coming up to 819, I manage to drift off to the left a bit and pop out on the edge of a fairly startling scarp. It's a bit of work to get back up to the ridge, only to drift on to a knob off to the right of the main ridge. Taking a direct line back to the ridge sees me struggling through chest high scrub, at one point plunging one hand into a healthy nettle bush.

It's hard work getting around and down to the saddle past 819, where to my relief there is a small stream trickling out of the hill. This is taking longer, and is hotter, than expected.

In amongst the bush it is sometimes quite tricky to work out which steep sided ridge or spur is the one to head for, so it takes a little while to get to the final saddle. After starting up the final steep spur the bush opens, and there are spectacular views south along the tortuous ridge. There's a choice of thrashing up through impenetrable low bush or edging along a steep drop. I elect for clutching handfuls of grass whilst navigating up along the precipitous edge. The ground is dry, and the grip pretty good, so it's a question of being careful rather than scared.

Looking south from further along ...

and looking down

It seems to take a long time, but is about half an hour to work up the 200m into mature forest, and along the flat topped Papatahi, to eventually and inevitably stumble onto the Papatahi Track.

Been a while since seeing one of these

The top is a minute from where I hit the track. It's 4.25, almost five and three quarters hours after leaving Mt Matthews: that ridge was indeed tough! The weather is changing, but I take the time for a celebratory tin of sardines, before turning to the 700m  descent. At least there are no branches, nettles and brush lawyer to push through.

Top of Papatahi - and there goes the weather

Half an hour later I've dropped down the last of the steep scrambles into a stream bed, and topped up with water, before following it down to North Boulder Creek, then the Orongorongo River, on the way down disturbing a family of goats. The billy keeps a weather eye on me whilst letting the others go ahead.

I've been this way once before with Mike in the opposite direction. The river has a different character to the wide shingle bed down the valley. Upstream is the warning sign about entering the drinking water catchment, and downstream is the domain of huts, tracks and people.

Orongorongo River - up stream

There's no where to cross the river with dry feet, so I do the one boot hop again. Rather than follow down to the mouth of the Whakanui Stream, I pick a likely looking spur which turns out to have an old route up to the East Whakanui Track (with occasional tin markers). It's slow going, so it is 6.45 by the time I finally emerge on the track, 200m or so short of 502.

The track is well trodden - mainly for pest control by the look of it (traps and blue triangle markers apart from one section where they have left orange for some reason). On another day it would be quite a pleasurable amble, but it's been a long day now so I plod along and up into cloud and gathering gloom.

I'm quite interested to see what's at the top. I had tried to hit this track on an earlier visit to the area but discovered by accident an old and very well made trail that deposited me way off course behind locked gates in the water catchment. I'm keen not to repeat the experience.

At the top of the evocatively named 'spot height 800'
With stoat trap

It's 7.45 before the track tops out and turns firmly left with, to the right, a sign warning about the water catchment. That's pretty clear then - no danger of wandering off in the wrong direction. It's nice to know that the climbing is all done, but the cloud is piling in from the west and a raincoat is in order, followed not too long later by a head torch.

The track drops 200m into a saddle and is easy to follow. After climbing 100m I miss the Whakanui Track joining from the left, but manage to identify where the Nikau Creek Track drops off. I saw no signs and I note afterwards that, although marked on my map, it is not on the web topo map. I'm interested to follow this down, so as to complete the loop on a different track.

As I descend in the dark the sounds of Guy Fawkes and frightened dogs drift up from Wainuiomata and the massive booms rumble in the background from the Wellington display. The track is not as well traveled, and only sporadically marked, so there are quite a few points where a strategic retreat to the last identifiable marker or section of trail is necessary, in order to find the way forward. This is particularly problematic where there is the odd tree fall or a lot of leaf litter obliterating the foot pad. It is painstaking work but I'm not keen on trying to bush bash in this country in the pitch black.

It's the sort of situation where you pay attention and realise just how much you rely on visual clues and peripheral vision to maintain a sense of direction. The odd marker, glimpse of distant street lights, and the compass needle are the only things that can really be trusted.

It takes a long time to work down the spur. At last the sounds of water drift up from the creek and, after navigating a final tree fall, I'm crossing it to try and find a path on the other side. The track I find is wide and very well made. The last 10 minutes or so are much easier going on the flat without having to worry about branches in the face or dodgy footing. It spits me out in the car park at the end of Hine Road beside the Garden of Remembrance.

It's less than a kilometre under orange street lights to where the car waits. I am totally relieved to throw my pack into the unburnt car and head for home; near as dammit to 16 hours after setting out.

Post Script

This was a bit of a stretch for a day trip with a weekend pack. The Whakanui Tracks are both well worth doing and Mt Matthews is always a crowd-pleaser. The ridge from Matthews to Papatahi is not for the faint-hearted. Although initially marked, most of it doesn't seem to get much in the way of traffic and there are some quite steep, exposed and unstable sections. I ended up covered in bruises and scrapes from the tough scrub (legs particularly) along with numerous nettle stings and scratches to hands and face from bushlawyer.  Later in summer, water will be a concern, not to mention overheating. I probably shouldn't really have bashed up the spur to East Whakanui Track, as that part of the park doesn't really need people going off track too much. And, although taken carefully it was fine, I wouldn't recommend doing the stretch down to Nikau Creek for the first time in the dark.