Showing posts with label north ohau. Show all posts
Showing posts with label north ohau. Show all posts

Thursday, 10 March 2022

Ohau track work weekend

Mike's life is organised on a Trello board and the board is saying that it is time for a track maintenance trip, to tidy up South Ohau Hut and the track to Girdlestone.  The former was in a dire and mouldy state last time Mike was through (but not so bad when I visited subsequently) and we have both experienced the hell scramble through old tree fall required on the track to Girdlestone Saddle.

What:    Track work weekend
Where:  Ohau and track to Girdlestone Saddle
Who:     Mike and Janine
When:   11-13 March 2022 

Mike and Janine set off from Wellington on Friday morning while I slip in three quarters of a day at work.  They are hoping to get in a few hours work on the track before I cruise in late for dinner.  

The start of the Shannon Road is closed and I waste time cruising Levin before giving up and cracking out google, consequently it is almost 4.30 before I leave the carpark. 

There are reports of a slip on the track in the gorge - I figure it will be crossable or by-passable so head on up the track.  On the way a winged shape catches my eye and I'm delighted to see a ruru a short way off in the supplejack keeping a keen eye on me.  A good start for the weekend.

There is a bypass over the slip but it is an easy few steps across and about an hour from the car I'm at the clearing below Gable.  On your own you can potter up the river at a reasonable pace and it's pretty familiar now.  By 6.10 I'm at the junction between North and South Ohau branches (foot off Deception Spur) and reach South Ohau Hut at 7.30 - three hours all up.









The news from Mike and Janine is mixed - they had a bit of a slow trip up river so didn't get up to Girdlestone Track, but on the positive side of the ledger, TARHC had just been in on a working bee and the hut is looking pristine.  They have also apparently done work on the treefall so we will see what needs doing in the morning.

It's a comfortable and convivial evening with a few craft beers to share.  


The hut boots - cut down the back so they fit anyone
No soles but

The morning is threatening drizzle - we are up and off by 8am with the intention of checking out the treefall and, if time allows, heading up to the ridge to drop down to North Ohau hut.  I'm a little surprised that Janine is keen to tackle this as she hasn't always been enthusiastic about some of my route choices!  I do my best to give an accurate description of what to expect. 







Some people have to duck a little more than others ...


We wander up stream to where orange triangles mark where to leave the creek and climb the spur just before the Dowling Falls Stream.  I made the mistake of heading up to the falls once and clambering up to the spur - not to be repeated.

When we get to the tree fall it is apparent that a lot of work has already been done - it is way better than it was.  We set about building on this and clearing more timber and material further along the spur.  Before long we declare victory and agree that we have time to take the scenic route to North Ohau.  

It's a bit of a mucky descent to the creek which we follow up stream.  It's pretty sketchy in places and Janine takes a bit of a tumble at one point.  The track is no longer marked on the topo map and I suspect that DOC is just letting it quietly fade away.  

I'm checking the map and scanning for markers which are somewhat sparse but do pick up the marker that indicates where the track leaves the creek and climbs for the ridge.  It's a bit of a scramble but at last we reach the flat top and thrash through the undergrowth until we stumble on the track between Te Matawai and Mangahao. 

Mike cracks out the jet boil and whips up some miso soup while we pause for lunch - an inspired move.  I've never been one for day time brews but this was perfectly timed.

We step past the track sign and head north and up the ridge.  There's some foot trail but a lot of tree fall so we zigzag our way along and over pt 735 in to the saddle beyond before the climb to pt 865.  Once the ridge narrows the track becomes more apparent.  I tick off the cairn at the top of Deception Spur (pt 865) and keep my eyes peeled for the top of the spur to North Ohau Hut.  We over shoot slightly but quickly find our way on to the spur.  I warn the others what to expect - 600m of knee trembling descent with a bit of scrub, kie kie and casting around for the trail. 

Since I was here last someone has applied a bit more pink ribbon to mark the way which makes things a bit easier - as we drop the weather clears and there is even some sun and blue sky.  Around 4.30 it's a tired but happy group that pops out into the hut clearing.  



Made it!



Time for afternoon tea



... and to get things drying


The hut is looking a bit neglected so we do a bit of tidying, cleaning, cut firewood and package rubbish to carry out.   Mike has discovered his pack has let a bit of water in during the day and has a bit of kit to set to dry in the afternoon air.  

I can't remember what was for dinner but it was something that Jennine brought and it was very good.  

There's no hurry in the morning so we do the final tidy up and get away near 9.30, getting to Deception Spur by 10.40.   






It's a beautiful day.  We bump into some meet-up mates of Mike - a large group heading up to North Ohau for a day trip.  We also take the opportunity to visit Rabbit Flat "Hut".  This has been referred to as a hidden hut but it turns out is now little more than a rubbish heap in the bush.  Thanks hunters.  
  


Draining the boots before leaving the river. 

We potter back along the track to reach the cars before 2pm.  A good weekend topped off by a late lunch at the Deer Museum and Cafe/Bar in Manakau.  A unique experience.

Saturday, 15 December 2018

Ohau - Mangahao loop

I have not quite finished with the Poads Road end. Due to previous bad planning and lack of fortitude there is an orphan spot height lurking on a scrubby ridge between the North Ohau and Mangahao Rivers. This area has shredded some of my best kit in the past and I sometimes hear its distant voice  taunting me in the night.

Flights of fancy aside, if I'm going to complete this mission, I have to find ways to mop-up spots like this. In a eureka moment during the week I devise a route to pick it up plus a couple more on a nearby ridge - and it actually looks like it could be good fun (as opposed to the familiar grim battle to wring the last spotty dregs out of the range).

What:    Weekend navigation trip
When:   15-16 December 2018
Where:  Around Tawirikohukohu
Who:     Solo
Map






It's shaping up to be a fine morning (7.10 am) as I leave the car at the Poads Road end. I put up with the familiarity of the route to the gorge knowing that before long I'll be in new territory.

At the style just before the track dives into the bush, I stop to survey my intended route onto the plateau across the river. I've tried going through the forestry and had mixed success - the place is a mess and it's hard to find a good way across the river. This time I'm aiming to cross further up stream and climb directly to spot 332.


Pt 332 top right, forestry track on left

I follow the fence line down to a terrace above the river. There's another style at the bottom and a little to the left an old vehicle track off the terrace and down to the river.


From the top style - bottom style to the left

On the other side, there's a wee scramble out of the river to skirt just below the carnage from a logging track. The bush is reasonably open and I find it easy to make a way up, eventually stumbling onto blue tape markers and a foot trail to the top (I assume this indicates there is an easier route out of the river).


Top of spur - 332

At the top I lose the markers but find a ground trail, then manage to veer off and follow some red tape markers which start heading down hill. Taking a bearing I just follow my own way for a bit knowing I will pick up the good track in due course.

The track is pretty much unmarked but once it starts climbing the spur to Square Knob it is solid and mostly easy to follow. There are even the occasional glimpse west to a fine day.


A nice day over Levin ...


The Main Range is expecting some weather from the NE though 


Nice trail - after Square Knob

From Square Knob the ridge follows an arc around to Tawirikohukohu delineating the northern boundary of the North Ohau River catchment. The trail breaks into scrub after 794 giving views of clag starting to form around the shoulders of the slopes above.



Looking up towards Tawirikohukohu from near 794


Looking towards Levin as the clouds start to gather





1047 just catching the clag

The trail gets a little more overgrown but still pretty good going as it sidles around the north side of Tawirikohukohu and onto my ridge. The catchment to the north and east is Johnston Creek. The Camelbacks circling above it try to look benign but I know they have a leatherwooden heart.

 
Looking over Scrub Dome to Pyramid Knob and Camelback

It has taken almost three hours to get to the top so I'm going pretty slow today. I head along towards my highest point (1047) - on the way, a look back treats me to the sight of my least favourite ridge in the Tararaus.  I have a not so fond memory of the beating it gave me on my first sortie into the Camelbacks.



The ridge of despair  

Near 1047 looking SE at the Main Range - center are two spurs explored on an earlier trip 

1047 is at the top of a spur with a good trail down to the river (I missed the bottom of this spur on another trip).


Spur to 940 and the river

Down ridge towards 830 - Island ridge on left in distance


Camelhead on right, Marquee on left
(reservoir one peaking around the hill on right) 

As expected, the trail gets a lot less defined after this. It's not too bad but there are some scrubby sections. The cloud finally comes through with its threat and it starts raining on the way down to 830. My lightweight shirt is quickly saturated so I pause at 830 under a developing canopy to add a layer.

The navigation is a little tricky around here but I sort myself out and truck on for 773, my last spot on this ridge. It is not a particularly defined spot so I overshoot to ensure I've got it then take a bearing down the steep slope to the river.

You could probably ride the ridge down to its foot at the mouth of Johnston Creek as it's well defined and the bush looks good. But not today - it would take me out of my way and leave me in a gorge on the wrong side of the river.

I successfully pick up a wee spur that drops me to the river for an easy crossing just along the track from the Harris Creek bridge. On the way I lean on a ponga which promptly breaks in three - landing on my head and cascading fine humus through my hair and down my back.

It's 3pm. Earlier in the day I had in the back of my mind the possibility of knocking the trip off in one day but I've decided to have two easy days instead. The forest here is lush and mature so it's nice to just amble along the familiar track. There are no footprints from today so I'm hoping for an empty hut.


It's called a track dahl ...

Rounding a corner I see a shag on a branch above a deep pool - I stop to watch. It's aware of me and is visibly in two minds; flexing its wings and glancing anxiously back it shuffles and makes a number of false starts before finally launching into flight.

In daylight with no injuries I am pleased to be able to take the river route rather than climb over the slip. It's a dramatic scar with the folded bed rock exposed and old alluvial deposits on top.






Mangahao Flats Hut

Once again the hut is empty. But this time it's 4.20 on a now sunny afternoon so I have some daylight to hang out wet clothes and read something from the hut 'library.'

I'm minding my own business when I see a deer on the flat below the hut - about 20m away. I wander onto the veranda and it turns to stare at me. After about 20 seconds it trots to the forest edge and turns again. Not great survival traits - I could have shot it three times by now. At last it turns to trot into the trees - until I bark and it comes back. It stares again then opens its mouth wide and barks back - pausing once more to say 'how do you like that then!?' Finally it has had enough and trots into the trees - but not too far and we keep barking at each other for another minute or so until I get bored and go back to my book.

It's pleasant to have dinner in daylight and hit the sack early.

In the morning the sky is blue and the sun is just catching the top of the hill across the river. I head out a little after 7am.

The plan is to head up river a short distance, cross just after the next stream on the true left and climb 500 odd meters to pt 1025. Last time I had quite a challenging climb to 1040 straight across from the hut so I'm expecting this to be tricky.

A different deer exchanges barks from the other side of the river as I wander up.



There's a bit of a bog at the base of the hill but once on the slope it's just what you would expect form the contour lines. I quickly find myself following old pest monitoring markers up a wee spur - there is no sign of a trail and the tracking tunnels have not been used for a very long time. Still, I'm hoping it will lead to the scrub and that someone may have trimmed a way through in the past.

No such luck - I see no more markers above about 700m. But around about then there are a few breaks in the canopy to reveal a gorgeous day and the Tararua tops naked to the sky.























Main range around Dundas etc


Mangahao Flats Hut is a tiny dot in the center somewhere


There's a bit of scrambling through scrub towards the top but it is much easier than my recollection of the next spur over. Approaching the crest I'm surprised to be able to pick out the hut below - I hadn't realised you could just about see the top of the ridge from the hut.

A little before 9.20 it's warm and calm on 1025 with bird song drifting up the hillside. The flax is in flower with surprisingly bright colours - bright yellow pollen on the anthers, and shades of orange, green and bronze. For some reason it reminds me of 1970s wallpaper. I take my time, send a few texts and generally find excuses not to tackle the spur down the other side.



1040 - the next knob north

Horowhenua / Manawatu 

Tawirikohukohu (center)

I have a few options now - I could take the easy route and potter along the ridge top to descend the marked spur to North Ohau hut. The ridge might be a bit of a bash but there is a marked trail down the spur. But I've been that way before so I decide to take the spur off 1025 - it looks steep, gnarly and scrubby but is new territory.

There's no track on the spur so I work down to a wee knob for a last view backwards. The spur splits in three and I want the ugly one on the left. I can't see it so I set the compass and worm down through the scrub.


Looking back towards 1025

Between 800-900m the spur has little shape and I find myself climbing down a steep face with mucky drainage slots choked with rotting vegetation. I can see a wee knob below with good trees but can't see what the slope does. I drift right to discover that left would have been smarter. There's a bit of a scramble across a face above a basin using shrubs as hand holds - but I find a beautiful hebe in flower so no complaints from me.


Aim for the left side of that knob below


Hebe (as least I think he be)

The spur proves to be a good choice - quite entertaining in the way it switches and turns, the vegetation changes and the the shape comes and goes. This probably means that most normal people would have hated it.

I take a bit of pleasure in sticking with it right down to the junction between two streams - despite easier looking routes to the right. It's midday so it's taken a little over two hours to make way down.


North Ohau 'River' and unnamed stream

There are a few deep pools to navigate on the way down river and it's a pleasant wander taking about half an hour to get to North Ohau Hut. The log book says a couple of parties have been through in the weekend which is pretty busy - it also says there's been a dead rat in the water tank so I hold off topping up.

After a spot of lunch I follow the river down stream - for a change, the sun is shining directly into the narrow valley.

Last time through here it was getting on in the day and I saw a black fantail - no such luck this time. I find I'm following foot prints and estimate they are a few hours old so I'm not likely to catch up with them.

The North and South river branches meet at 1.30 at the foot of Deception Spur (a nice route up to the ridge). I find I am now following fresh footprints.


Deception spur

I soon catch up with the owner of the feet who has come up river; decided he won't make the hut and wisely decided to backtrack. We exchange a few words and I leave him to it. The older foot prints precede me.

It takes about 35 minutes to get to the track and another 40 to get to the farmland. I pass two couples walking up the track on the way.

I keep a steady but not fast pace across the flats as it's pretty warm. Across the river the clear-felled hillside looks like a shaved badger.

 



At 3pm I'm back at the car and ready to sit in the traditional Sunday arvo Kapiti traffic jam. But first that luke-warm ginger beer.

Postscript

Only three spots down leaving 42 to go. But I'm pleased to knock of 1025 which I was not looking forward to. 

Crossing the Ohau River near the bushline is the best route onto the spur up to Square Knob that I have found yet. I suspect I missed an easier route out of the river but it was pretty straight forward anyway.

The route from Square Knob to 1047 and then down to the river is a good option for getting to Mangahao Flats Hut. Bear in mind the river can be fierce though. I don't think there is a lot of value in following my example down the ridge to 830 and 773 - although it would be kind of fun to combine this route with an exploration of Johnston Creek.

The scramble to 1025 was better than the previous one to 1040 - but you sort of get what you deserve when you navigate in such a crude fashion. If you can read a map you would likely not bother with the spur off 1025 but I enjoyed it. 

The new boots are getting less painful each trip - river travel is a good way to sort things out. Also wearing them to work which you can get away with in the week before Christmas.

With a bit of luck - the next blog will be a successful foray along the Karamea / Leslie rivers in the Kahurangis.

Saturday, 21 April 2018

Tawirikohukohu and North Ohau

It's a terrible thing to neglect an orphan - but more about that later. 

The ranges behind Levin have some lovely wee spots and fond memories - the upper reaches of the Ohau Rivers; beautifully formed but unmarked tracks; a forest gecko that stayed put long enough for a photo. And then it is justly infamous for parts best described as scrubby hell holes (or ridges to be precise).

This weekend is a foray back into the interior and pretty much covering both ends of the spectrum.

What:    Navigation, spot-heighting and scrub bashing
Where:  Ohau River, Mangahao, Tawirikohukohu
When:   21-22 April 2018
Who:     Solo
Map:


Large scale view - red is the current trip, blue the Easter excursion

Close-up of start and finish bits
Close-up of middle bits

A quiz evening last night results in a lack of sleep and a late start. Consequently, it's 0800 when I arrive at a busy Poads Road end. A motley crew is gathered preparing for a day walk - I head out just before them.

The familiar track wends across farmland and into the Ohau River valley. The sky is a bit grey but the forecast showers are holding off. A couple of paradise ducks kick up a racket when I appear on the terrace above their pond.

My navigation brain is barely required at the start which is probably just as well. The first bridge marks the target spur and there turns out to be a well worn track heading up. There are a number of leg-hold traps (all sprung) stapled to trees, one clutching a well-dead possum - not a pleasant death. And someone has left an old pack hanging on a tree with a secateurs and a knife sharpener in it.

Spot-height 295 (0845), like most others, is unremarkable (and to my annoyance, I realise later that it is technically not in the forest park - oh well).


295 -  open forest with just a little bit off supplejack


Hallmark pack - remember them?

At the top (0915), the spur emerges onto the track that will take me back down to the river at Blackwater Stream (6 discs track?). It's marked and reasonably well trod but still easy to wander off in a few places. Spot-height 372 is a short distance off the track and even less remarkable than 295.

At the bottom (1010), the bridge over Blackwater Stream leads to a pleasant grassy clearing and a track down to the river junction. Across the river is the base of the spur I have my eye on - it turns out to have sporadic markers indicating that someone thought it was a route once.


Back on the gorge track

On the way up, the wind in the trees is a constant refrain but the rain still holds off. The wind noise is such that I step around a tree and startle a large stag about three metres away. He's completely oblivious to my approach and, it's fair to say, gets the bigger surprise. He leaps and thunders off around the slope. The place must be infested - a little earlier I heard something crashing off and, at another spot, caught a glimpse of a rapidly dwindling deer's bum.

On the ridge (1140) there's a lovely wee track with old orange bait stations - it looks like part of a line I've seen further up the ridge around Square Knob. The stations aren't in use but the track looks like it might be. The weather gets up a bit more and there must have been some rain as the trees are a bit wet.


Ridge - pretty open

I figure the track is likely to take the obvious route and drop to the junction of North and South Ohau Rivers. It doesn't. I lose it around 670m and take a bearing to my spur, taking a while to triangulate to ensure I'm in the right place - a little tricky with the cloud ceiling hiding the higher points.

The spur is ok with a bit of steep clambering at the bottom - I'm chuffed to emerge just below the junction (1340). But not so chuffed at the downpour that is slashing up the valley. It blows through quickly with just a few parting shots, so I don't get my coat out.

The name of the spur that splits the two branches of the Ohau River is Deception Spur. As names go it's up there with 'False Spur' off the Southern Crossing. In this case it is possibly a testament to the challenges that have always existed of navigating below the bushline in Tararua clag?

The spur caught my eye a while back - it looks like an efficient way to get into the head of the Mangahao and the big spurs up to the Main Range - but I failed to work it into my Easter 2018 double crossing. It proves to be a good route, a little overgrown and steep at the bottom but quite navigable and easy to follow further up.


Nice to see rata in flower - Deception Spur


I notice I've slowed a bit - with low energy levels the plan of dropping to North Ohau hut then bashing over pt 1025 is clearly off the table. I have a sit and think and regretfully decide to leave the spot-height for another day - and thus an orphan is born. It will take a dedicated trip to knock it off, buggrit.

The top of the spur has a large cairn (1545) - perhaps indicating early problems finding the right spot and hence the name?


Top of Deception Spur

This is (briefly) familiar territory - I whistle down the ridge to the area of treefall (about 720m) where I pick a random spot and strike off for the valley which is less than 200m below at this point. No trails to speak of, but I would be very surprised if there wasn't one somewhere.



Mangahao River


The river (1630) is not up but deep enough for wet boots. The track here is wide and well formed, following river terraces beneath mature forest. It's relaxing swinging along familiar ground without having to think quite so much about navigation and foot placement. What is not relaxing is the prospect of being mistaken for a deer (in a flouro vest) in the gathering gloom. I periodically let out a loud whistle just in case.

It always takes s little longer than I expect to get to the hut and it's just on dusk (1740) as I clomp onto the deck to find it empty.  It's as tidy as usual (probably due to the ministrations of the Manawatu Tramping Club who seem to be sending working parties in reasonably frequently).

I have a luxurious 10 hour sleep disturbed only by a few heavy dumps of rain during the night. By the time I'm heading out (0720) the sun is already drifting down the opposite valley wall.



Morning from Mangahao Hut

The plan today is to climb to the ridge running west up to Tawirikohukohu. Forays into this area in the past have been ... challenging, but I've heard there is an old route up by Tawiri Stream and I'm hoping the ridge is better traveled then some in the area.

On the flats a few minutes from the hut, for the second time this weekend I manage to sneak up on a stag - this one is about five metres away when we see each other. This close he looks pretty big and spiky. Irrespective of our relative placement in the food chain there's an instant of relief when he runs away rather than toward me.

Not for the first time I get caught out crossing between two maps (mind the gap!). And, if I'm honest, confirmation bias. I have it in mind that I enter the river at the big slip (which must be the one with the high level bypass track).  My morning brain refuses to count the first slip without the bypass and I amble gormlessly twice as far as required and consequently take the spur on the true left (not right) of Tawiri Stream.

The bush is beautiful here. Rain forest like - dripping with moss that is bright green in the morning light under a tall canopy (the classic goblin forest at higher altitudes is generally darker and often a bit drier). I'm a bit suspicious that there is no sign of any trail but don't really mind.


Deer wallow on way up spur

It's a steep climb and the dreaded scrub starts about 800m, there's no real signs of travelers other than game until an old powerade bottle signals an(other) idiot has been this way. The scrub bashing is not too bad, and at least I can now see the Main Range, and the fact that I'm on the wrong spur.


From the wrong spur - back towards the Main Range

The ridge (1000) brings views to the orderly Horowhenua plains and the infamous Camelbacks. I am delighted to discover that there is a bit of a trail to follow.


Difficult country - Camelbacks and other scrubby places

Having come up the wrong spur I now 'have to' drop down to pick up a spot-height on the correct spur (pt 940 - 1025). This spur has an old cut track and is probably pretty good going all the way to the bottom. However, my attention is more taken by the shape of the ridge up to Tawirikohukohu from the south. It is the site of the most miserable scrub bashing I have ever endured. It doesn't look so bad from here but does look a little ugly towards the top.


Tawirikohukohu on right - I think it took two hours to navigate that stretch of ridge
Those little knobs up to the right are nasty

Just before Tawirikohukohu the track sidles around to the right (north) and it's easy to miss where a foot trail continues upwards. A bit of clag is starting to gather. From the catchment south east of the peak a stag roars - I roar back and another joins in. We roar at each other for a bit until I clearly say something inappropriate and they both shut up.

The top (1105) is largely in scrub so I take a bearing to the next spot height (897) and am relieved that there is an old cut trail leading in that direction. The plan at this point is to nip down and back, then exit on what I know are nice but unmarked trails via Square Knob. You can guess that this is exactly what doesn't happen.


From Tawirikohukohu - towards Square knob 

Part way down, the trail simply disappears leaving me floundering through leatherwood and other scrubulous species. Sometime during my sweary down-spur progress it becomes clear that coming back up is going to be miserable. I hunker down in a patch of dracophyllum and study the map - an escape route into the upper North Ohau River is quickly identified and a text is sent to home command in quick order.


Don't forget to scrub

There is a bit of a knack to scrub bashing and often a bit of a knap to the scrub. As soon as I start heading off the ridge I am no longer pushing through the scrub but crashing over scrub that is lying in a downwards direction - progress further accelerates as the canopy lifts and progress underneath becomes possible.

No-one in their right mind comes through here so it's animal trails again. The spur is a bit messy in shape so some compass assistance is necessary but the only real challenge is at the bottom where it bluffs out. The river (well, stream really) is visible below, flowing though a slot into a deep pool, but it takes a wee while to safely navigate the crumbling bank to the bottom (I may have marked the wrong spur on the map above).

The North Ohau (1335) then provides a delightful series of cascades to negotiate before leveling for a long (slippery) wander down to the hut. I reach the major junction upstream of the hut about 1400. There are a few useful terraces that speed up travel, and one or two lower down with deep cutty grass and elephant traps that are best avoided. On one high terrace I find another bloody hunters rubbish heap.


Wee cascade shortly after joining North Ohau


Junction


Bloody hunters!


There's a large hind grassing on the flats below the hut.  My approach is masked by the sound of the river so it isn't until I whistle that she takes a long look before trotting off with another in tow. If I had been a hunter it would have been another for the pot.

North Ohau is a tidy wee hut (1515) - I notice in the log someone else reporting seeing part of a cut route on Tawirikohukohu and lamenting that it stopped (so it wasn't just me) - it looks like they dropped into the headwaters of one of the streams.


A nice wee hut

I'm keen to get on as it could be approaching dark by the time I get out. At this point I notice the heel of my boot has ripped in half. It might just be time for a new pair - still, it won't be much more slippery than the well smoothed soles already are.

The sun had been streaming into the valley but is now just hitting the slopes above. Pairs of fantails are feeding above the river and pause to investigate as I cross their territory. One pair is a normal pied version with a black mate - s/he is stunning, and it's odd to see all the familiar mannerisms in a bird that looks completely different. Black fantails apparently make up about 5% of southern populations but are rare in the North Island - I have never seen one so close before.

The trip down river is familiar. The gorgy bit to the junction of North and South Ohau (1605), then the more open wander down to where the track starts (1645) with occasional short cuts across terraces. There are some footprints in the river bed from earlier in the day but I don't see anyone.

Just after sundown I'm back at the carpark (1740). 8 spot heights knocked off, an exploration of the Northern Ohau complete and that fantail. A good weekend - shame about the orphan.