Ruahine Corner and a tragic end to a weekend

Another trip into the northern Ruahine Range. This one is a bit of an adventure with some beautiful country and challenging weather.  But the weekend has a tragic end with the death of a tramper in the area.  He was swept away while crossing the Makaroro River with a companion at the mouth of Gold Creek and has been much on my mind in recent weeks.

My trip has multiple goals - explore a track from Parks Peak Track to Barlow Hut, head up river to tackle the spur to Kylie Biv, get across to Ruahine Corner Hut, and tackle the spur from Colenso Hut up to Rangiwhakamataku.  The weather forecast promises ample rain peaking late Sunday into Monday with a bit of wind. I'm thinking there is a reasonable chance I'll be implementing one of various contingency plans.

What:    Nav, tops and tracks
Where:  Northern Ruahine Range
When:    30/5 to 2/6/20
Who:     Solo
Maps

The usual early start and long drive sees me at the Wakarara road end just as two ute loads of hunters pull up.

They drive down to the river side while I park at the top park and follow them down on foot about 8.30.  The morning is overcast but mild.  We chat briefly as they load up for a hunt around the Yoeman Track area - I'm passing through there so am glad to head out ahead of them. A wee four wheel drive is already parked up - tracks suggest it is mountain bikers.

Half an hour later I'm at the turn off to Yoeman's track and leave the forestry road behind. The track is on old logging way so is solid and wide.  The regenerating bush is pleasant and not dripping wet this time.  A little over 10 minutes later I'm at the junction to Parks Peak Track and relieved that the hunters will now be left well behind.

Yoemans Track

The track starts climbing gently and then more steeply - at some point it transitions from an old road to a wideish track, then a typical Ruahine track (i.e. wide cut).  Almost immediately I'm seeing fungi again - they are mostly more mature than last week with quite a few starting to rot away but still plenty of them - the specimens that follow were in the space of about 15 minutes.

About 50 minutes from the junction, the track flattens for a bit and a flock of whiteheads come down to scold as I amble through pleasant mossy forest.  A few minutes later the track breaks into some clearings and back into bush. It all feels familiar after only a week away.

The track breaks into more stunted beach and clearings and there's a bit of clag about.  Ahead a ridge runs away to the left which must be where I'm heading.  At 1030 I reach the cairn just before my intersection - it's at about 1200m and about 3 minutes from the turn-off for the track to Barlow Hut.  The turn off is not where the ridge leaves the main ridge - it's a bit before so the track drops and sidles along the ridge then pops up onto the side ridge.

Target spur ahead

The track is not marked on the map - but there's a sign and the map shows some good spurs.  The bottom looks somewhat steep so I'm interested to find where it runs. 

I drop through scrubby bush and pop out at the top of a wee erosion scar. There's not much to tell where to go but you drop diagonally down and right across the scar to re-enter the bush as it narrows off. Sporadic orange triangles mark a fairly faint track that sidles across to scramble onto the side ridge.

The track remains fairly faint and the triangles are somewhat casual - I reach a large, rank pool and, shortly after, an erosion face that gives views to the flanks of the main range with the tops well clouded in.  The top of the ridge is often broad with long flat spells in open bush. There's a few spots where I have to cast around to find the trail but I keep my eyes peeled and find where the markers drop steeply down a spur to head towards the river near Barlow Hut.

I drop quite steeply for a bit heading, slightly up river of the hut, then land on a bit of a terrace where I lose the trail.  No matter, the bush is open enough and I meander down before a final messy scramble to the river, which is at normal flow.

A minute or two downstream I pass where the track enters/leaves the bush. There are three small triangles marking the spot, so it is easy to miss, from there it's three minutes to the hut.

There are three orange triangles over there somewhere

It's a bit before 12.10 and it has taken about 1 hr 35 to make the descent. The last visitor to the hut was a week ago.  I check the entry from my previous visit and note that the hunters staying in the hut at the time didn't put their names in the log.  A wrap for lunch and I head away at 12.30.

The valley is reasonably open here but starts to narrow.  There are no problems, but a few spots of rain start to speckle the rocks indicating that the weather is starting to come in, and it's going to be getting progressively more slippery.

A reasonably sized trout is a bit startled to see me and splashes to get out of the shallows and arrow off upstream about 10m. When I catch up, it arrows off down stream. I discover I have to backtrack to cross, which sends it haring back up stream again.  I don't know anything about trout but it was interesting how short a distance it went to escape and that it stayed in the same very short stretch of river.

About 50 minutes from the hut I reach the foot of the spur to Kylie Biv.  I have a sit down to study the map next to a blue green pool - it's not obvious where best to start climbing and it looks fairly steep from the river side. I potter up stream but quickly reach a gorge which would entail being wet to the armpits.

Just chillin at the base of Kylie spur

About 1.45pm I find a tortuous way up a face just before the gorge but suspect it would be sensible to explore up the side creek - it couldn't be any worse.  A slow 50 minutes from the river there is a slip that drops from the spur top to the side creek that may give better access - but it's quite possible there are waterfalls in the creek, so no guarantees.

It's a slow grind upwards - there are animal trails as usual but no real indication of people.  I have plenty of time to take pauses and try to keep a steady pace.  The bush is pretty good generally but the possibility of a leatherwood belt is on my mind.

The spur levels off at a knob (pt 1065) which has a rockface that might provide enough shelter for a bivvy at a pinch.

Higher up the leatherwood starts to appear and the going gets slower still.  By now it is well clagged in and I'm getting nicely wet from the vegetation.  Still - I'm glad I packed my newer coat which is not as robust as its older MacPac brethren but is still way more waterproof than my old faithful.

The lack of visibility means I probably missed some good routes through the scrubby bits and did it a bit harder than necessary.  The spur feels a bit interminable as subsequent rises emerge from the gloom and the cheerful blue biv fails to appear across every flat clear patch.  I think on a good day you would find reasonable routes through the scrub.

I have been somewhat relaxed about the time but it is starting to get dim when I arrive at the Biv around 5.10.  That's 3hr 25 for a 800m climb from the river so pretty slow going - partly terrain and partly fitness.

Before I settle in and peel off sodden gear, I case the area and find the toilet.  It's one of those shelterless boxes perched in the tussock - I hope I won't be needing it during the night.

The Biv is the standard two mattress affair - basic but comfy.  I get straight into my bag and set about making dinner.  The day has taken a little longer than anticipated but has gone to plan.  The weather isn't going to get any better though so I study the map for tomorrow and think about contingencies for Monday.

It's a quiet night and a good long sleep.  The morning is very similar to the afternoon before. As I dig my boots out from under the hut I have that mild dread at the inevitable dragging on of cold, wet gear.

Kylie in the morning

Around 8.10 I head for the ridge top in clag.  There's only a little wind so I warm up quickly.  The tops here are broad, flat and scattered with tarns - any foot trail tends to dissipate rapidly and is hard to find again.  This proves for tricky navigation in clag but the veg is mostly knee height or lower so it's not so bad.

I'm aiming to follow along off the east side of the ridge top to find the sign marking the top of Totara Spur and take it from there. This works out fine but I can't see any foot trail from there, despite knowing that there is a line of stoat traps leading along the ridge.

I pick my way to the ridge top and follow north until the gentle rise tops out at what must be pt 1503.  A short way north down the slope is an old wooden sign pointing to the track to Ruahine Corner.  The compass bearing from there is hardly necessary as I follow the direction of the sign, and the slope gradually forms into a spur then arrives at a newer DOC sign.

After that it is good going - the track is easy to follow down the spur and into bush. It dips into a wee saddle then sidles around pt 1370 and eventually down to a stream off Potae. I startle a couple of deer who disappear down valley before I could have got a shot in.

Ahead and above is a scarp that marks the ridge with the high point Potae - it's out of sight but the map shows that the track sidles along the ridge then climbs to join the ridge at the end of the scarp.  It's slower going through here, taking 35 minutes from the stream to the ridge, compared to under two hours from Kylie Biv to the stream.  On route there is a tree with a selection of possum barriers - maybe for mistletoe but I can't see anything.

Bangle tree

At the ridgeline (10:40) I join a good track.  There's a couple of signs with travel times - someone has left a couple of old DOC 250 traps beside one.

The track follows the ridge top.  On the right (east) are occasional windows out into the misty headwaters of the Ikawatea Stream. With the steep drop off and good bush below it looks like a lost prehistoric valley.  The odd limestone outcrop adds interest to the route.

The track drifts away from the ridge edge and drops gently towards a large clear area marked on the map.  It's broad and easy travel.

The tussock lands are huge when you reach them - the clag is still hanging around, lending an air of mystery but visibility is pretty good.  The track drifts west around the southern most tip of the tussocks to Ruahine Corner Hut. At 11.10 it has taken three hours from Kylie and 30 minutes from the track junction on the ridge.

I've heard a lot about this hut but know very little about it.  It's a good sized six bunker, with fourwheel drive access marked on the map from the NNW.

It's on the corner of a huge tussock landscape with the Makirikiri Tarns.  To the east the land drops rapidly away into the Ikawatea Stream.  To the south lies the length of the Ruahine Forest Park.  Although you could get here in a day from the east, it requires a bit of work so I suspect it is one of those huts that people see as a bit of a milestone to knock off.

Besides - to get here you travel through some stunning and varied landscapes - bushy ridges, deep cut river valleys, rounded tops, limestone bluffs and that endless tussock plateau.

And it's a good spot for an early lunch.

I have half an hour for lunch then head back at 11.40, not because there is any hurry but I'm starting to get cold.  It takes the same time, to within a minute, to get back to the junction.

From here the track gets more interesting - scrambling along past outcrops and sculptured limestone as it edges up to the high point at Potae (1312m).   The sun is trying to break through casting a rainbow into the cloud to the south.

Looking back - just past Potae

After Potae, the track starts dropping steepishly to a junction (12.30). To the right is a track for another day - it drops to the Waiokotore Stream and Biv and there's a ladder marked on the map where it starts climbing to Ohutu Ridge.  I'm interested to see if it's like the one at the Tararua Peaks. Straight ahead, the track plunges down a spur to a stream which joins the Mangatera River and gives access to Colenso Hut.

I'm noting some scuff marks on the track, which look like people, but I can't tell the direction of travel - I suspect they came up while I was at Ruahine Corner.

The stream is what you would expect from the map; a bit rough going in the head waters - narrow and slippery.  There are track markers though, frequently marking easier routes on either side of the stream. The odd patch of mud confirms that someone has come the opposite way recently.

The going gets easier and an hour from the Potae Junction there's a big flat rock face by the stream.  18 minutes later I reach the river junction.  About 1.50 and only 2.4 km to the hut.  The sign indicating 3 hr to Ruahine Hut is probably reasonably accurate as it has taken 2 hr 10 down hill.

It's slow going in the river for a start, with a bit of a clamber past a bouldery bit, but it then opens for an easy amble along a big terrace.  After that it's standard river travel - the turn to Colenso is marked with a big triangle. The mouth of the valley is narrow but it soon opens to lupin choked flats and finally Colenso Hut at 2.35.  A bit under 3 hours from Ruahine and 6hr 25 from Kylie Biv; a nice short day after yesterday and ahead of what might be a big day tomorrow.

The hut is empty, I drop gear and pop over to Lake Kokopunui (Colenso).  It's gorgeous forest here - the day is a bit dull for the lake to give it's best view, but it's an idyllic spot.  Despite creeping up to the view point, a duck spots me and within seconds this end of the lake is empty.  It's pretty cool having a place like this to yourself but the first spots of what is likely to be a good chunk of rain are starting to set in.

I decide semi dry gear would be a nice start to tomorrow so collect wood and get a fire going.
Steady rain settles in and keeps it up pretty much all night.

I'm up before dawn but it's still 7.50 before I get away. The route for the day starts up the spur opposite the hut - it's a steepish face and I can't see any obvious way to crack into it, but figure to head across then drift down valley until I find a way up.

However, first thing is the stream - it's easily crossable but significantly up. Damp boots are instantly full of water and the Lupins get my top half well on the way to being soaked by the time I get to the face opposite. It proves easy to get into the bush but there's no trail and a fair bit of undergrowth so it's slow going upwards.

I don't notice when I veer east and start following the spur top but start seeing the odd old cut branch. It's hardly open but it has been traveled before.  After a while the understory is replaced by cutty grass and it's reasonably open going up to pt 1239.

The wind is whipping over the ridge through the open trees. I shelter for a bit to grab a bite and check the map - but it''s too miserable to wait around.  It's mostly pretty typical off track travel - there's quite a few bits where you need to cast around and it takes a bit of work to get through a short scrub zone onto more open tops.

In clag and wind I plod on up to the top of Rangiwhakamataku and shelter in the lee to check the map again. Comfort feels a long way from here - there's a lot of navigation, landscape and weather in all directions to get to shelter. I'm hoping that there will be a reasonable trail through the saddle between here and the main range, as it is the most logical way to get to this peak.

From the top, another knob is visible and a bearing from there gives me a route into the saddle 200m below. There's a bit of scrub and water cascading where it doesn't usually. From the saddle I find a good trail through scattered scrub and then a tolerable foot trail up towards the main range.  It fades away but sees me most of the way up.

I've been this way before in similar conditions.  It's not difficult travel down this part of the range but with low visibility I frequently drift off the easiest path.   The northeaster whistles across the ridge slashing my left flank with rain - and rendering one glasses lens useless.  Once again I pay little attention to the exact location and just plod on over the next knob.  A brief stop huddled in the tussock behind a knob to grab a wrap and some cheese and then keep going munching on the go.

I think it's pt 1495 where I find myself floundering through deep tussock and Spikey Spaniard - I suspect there's a foot trail that sidles on the west that I missed.  In these conditions it's a frustration I could do without.

Finally I recognise the top of Te Atua Mahuru and the sign promising 1hr 30 to Sparrowhawk Biv.

The Makaroro River crossing is on my mind and I'm pretty much decided that it won't be a goer today. I'm wondering if I might be able to cross Gold Creek and exit over the farmland but will regroup at the Biv and decide there.

I head over the first knob and on to the second that has the marker for the spur to the creek and eventually Colenso Hut - a bit quicker than the route I've taken but probably not a lot of fun with increased stream flow.

Then it's the flat bit with the tarns and the climb to Maroparea - I'd love to see what this bit looks like without cloud.  However, I'm a bit more mindful about not repeating my error last time.  I pick a line off the ridge and this time get it right ... flat bit, climb to Oropu, scree slide, erosion faces ... and the short climb and turn to Sparrowhawk Biv.  All somewhat familiar now.

It's still clagged in and wet - at 3.05 I've been on the go for 7hr 15. A bit slow for the route but few breaks and I'm very relieved to get out of the weather.

Decision time, I can head down the track and find
1. I can cross the river and all is good (unlikely)
2. I can't, but can cross Gold Creek to find a way across the farmland (quite possible, but could be painful in the dark
3. both are impassable and I have to spend a cold wet night - in the tent if I'm lucky

Or I can:
4.stay in the hut, take a day's leave and head down and assess things in the morning.

It will be getting close to dark by the time I make the river and with all the rain I figure the risk of 3 is high enough that I opt for 4.  I text home and work and set about peeling off layers of sodden clothing.

The Biv has a vestibule - it may have a dirt floor but it's great to be able to hang out dripping clothes and crawl into my bag. They won't be dry in the morning but better than the alternatives.

I'm out of dehy but a soup and wrap is fine for dinner followed by a bit of chocolate.  It takes a while to warm up but time isn't a problem.  Outside the rain lets up - it's sheltered from the wind here so it's quiet and calm. There's been four visitors since my last time here and I've been through 4 times in the last page or so - definitely worth frequent flyer points.

After another good night's sleep I take my time in the morning and get away at 8am.  The sun is just piercing the clag - it's calm and there's a bit of blue showing through above the ridge - I reckon it will burn off.

I rapidly drop below the thin cloud into a sunny morning. There's a stream in the erosion face to my left that wasn't there last time I came through, so the landscape is still pretty soggy.

It's a long spur (something over 5km).  The morning sun is slanting in and it's good bush. I can hear the river from further up valley from my left - it seems louder than last time but I may just be being paranoid.  It fades as I drop and intervening spurs block the sound, after a while the sound of Gold Creek starts drifting up from the right.

Towards the bottom I'm craning for views of the river. The first glimpse of Gold Creek shows it will be passable - but the river looks wide and grey.

At 9.50 I'm standing at the junction and taking stock.  The river emerges from a bit of a gorgy section and the usual two channels have merged into a wide grey surface.  The river bed here is free of boulders and I can't see any indication of anything below the surface, apart from the gravel spit between the two channels which is signaled by a calm spot. This will break the crossing into two sections with a break between. There's plenty of space to cut diagonally down with the current, and there is a good distance downstream before any impediments. It's a close call but I decide to venture in and see what the current is like.

It's just above knee deep but there's a lot of force in the water, I've clasped my poles together and am leaning on them heavily.  The current pushes my feet sideways and scours the gravel from underneath - it would be easy to slip.  Edging through and down the main current it's only a few steps before I'm stepping up the loose edge onto the gravel spit. The next channel proves to be gentler and I'm soon standing on the other side looking back.  A bit relieved, a bit thoughtful if it was the right call to cross and mindful that the car is further down - on the other side.

Looking back across the river to Gold Creek

I scramble into the bush and follow the track up to the terrace and along to the end of Makaroro Road.  About a kilometre later a large helicopter flies slowly up valley out of sight behind the pines, I see it appear above the bottom of the spurs and hover.  I keep walking wondering what's up and figuring that if they see me they might want to have a chat. It flies down valley again and disappears.

There's a wee view spot as the track drops off the terrace - it gives a glimpse of the river above the crossing point - it's braided into channels but it doesn't look easy. I decide not to try where the track usually crosses as the single channel is narrow and deep and the river barrels towards a corner. Hanging a right at the bottom of the terrace I follow the 4WD track to the river. There are fresh footprints in the river bed which strikes me as a bit odd at this time on a Tuesday.

I'm sitting on my pack studying the river when the helicopter comes down valley sideways and slowly.  Someone is hanging out the side door - I give a wave and after pausing a bit they continue on down river. 

This crossing looks a little trickier - I walk the bank and pick the best line that gives the longest run out. A few paces into the crossing I catch a foot on a lip in the river bed and go down on one knee. Suddenly the force of the water is very apparent as it pours over my shoulder. I manage to keep aligned with the flow and the next step takes me into shallower water then a series of soggy steps to the bank.

I drip my way to the end of the road end which is muddy with vehicle tracks. Something has been going on.

Shortly after 11, I arrive at the car and set about getting into dry clothes.  Another helicopter loops above and lands a few hundred metres away near some farm buildings - a group of fluoro shapes are milling about. No one seems to be interested in a lone tramper so I pack up and head out.  I figure that they have found what, or whomever, they were looking for and are winding operations up.

Postscript

Checking the news when I get home I'm sad to hear that the body of a tramper was recovered downstream of the Gold Creek junction.  From the article it looks like they found him about, or shortly before, the time I came through and that he and his companion had been crossing at the same point as me but the afternoon before. Later, his name is released but not much further detail.

None of the preceding should be taken as criticism of their decision making. I don't know what the river was like when they tried to cross, and I may very well have made the same decision having crossed at that point previously and given the increased stability that a second person provides.

I've been reflecting on the events and my decisions as a solo tramper. I crossed safely twice despite a stumble on the second crossing - and I believe that even if I had been carried down stream there was enough run out to recover and extract myself. But ... with rivers, everything can change with one slip - there's a very fine margin between being in control and being in trouble.

An aside about walking poles and risking stating the obvious - they are great for balance in river beds and easy crossings but even two together are no replacement for a good stick.

When it comes down to it, you make decisions based on the situation that presents - and you recognise that the risks are higher when you're on your own. In future I'll be thinking of him when the decision involves a river.

Lake Colenso

I've commented before how the Ruahine Ranges seem to have kept more Maori place names than the Tararua Ranges. This is a good thing, although I do regret my inability to discover the associated history.  One exception to the predominance of te reo, is the name William Colenso which adorns a spur, a lake, and a hut. It's also scattered through the flora if you know where to look.

This weekend I have my eye on the lake, hut and spur and suspect I will see a fair amount of Oleria colensoi. Because of the access problems in the west the route will be across the range from Makaroro River in the east to Colenso Lake. I plan to explore a couple of ridges (that I can find very little out about) but in the end have to pull the plug on these. All going well though I will see three new huts and a chunk of new territory.

So who is Colenso? A quick Google and you'll find a Te Ara Encyclopaedia entry with plenty of info on Colenso the printer, missionary, explorer, politician, and rat.  As a missionary I guess he's as guilty as any for the impacts on Maori culture and society, as a botanist he has left his name scattered through the latin names of our flora (blue tussock - Poa colensoi, leatherwood - Olearia colensoi, rata ...).

He was a difficult character but did apparently try to point out that many Maori did not understand the Treaty they were signing and he stood up against some Maori land sales. He also had a child by his wife's maid which caused some serious damage to his position (his missionary position?).

Anyway - the DOC sign at the road end adds that his exploring and missionary zealotry saw him become the first European to reach the summit of the main Ruahine Range in 1845 from his mission station at Waitangi, guided by Paora Kaiwhata. They didn't complete the crossing that time but returned to finish the job in 1847.

The bush would have extended a great deal further in those days but he probably didn't have to contend with landowners refusing access.

The topo map has a red star at the base of Colenso Spur which caught my eye a while back - it marks a historic site which I understand is a cairn commemorating Colenso.  I'm hoping to be able to find it.

What:     Navigation trip
Where:   Makaroro River to Lake Colenso
When:    22-23 Feb 2020
Who:      Solo
Map

The DOC info board and carpark at the end of Wakarara Road look new. There's a bit of local history and track descriptions. The times I note are 2-3 hours to Barlow Hut, 4-5 hours to the main range, and for later reference, 3-4 hours to Gold Creek.

It's after 8.30 when I leave the car. The road continues through a gate and down through pines to a terrace below.

There's a historic site marked on the map near the river - the DOC info board reports that there used to be a milling settlement complete with school but it disappeared along with the timber in 1963.

In an effort to keep my feet dry I head a little way up from where the road crosses the river then try to cut back across the terrace to meet it again. This proves to be a bit of a mistake ... first - the terrace has a healthy crop of blackberry, second, I emerge (minus a bit of blood) onto a 4WD track that I find out later is the wrong one ...

Full disclosure so that others can learn from my mistakes: the start of the trip is on the map in my pack and I was a little over confident in my casual glance before stowing it. I thought the route followed the river when in fact there's some much easier forestry roads on terraces on the true left. The DOC marking is somewhat haphazard though - more on that later.

There's quite a solid vehicle track up the river bed which is generally easy going. I spy what looks like an old 4WD track on the true left at one point but drop off the side when it looks like it is climbing too high onto a terrace.

After about an hour, I've reached what looks like the start of the bush proper, when I spot a hunter emerging from a side creek. He's happy to stop for a chat after an unsuccessful morning and can give me a bit of intel - including that there's a track directly opposite the stream junction that takes you up to forestry roads (the way I should have come in).

It's about 9.50 and, working off the (wrong) map in my pocket I'm thinking I'm at the bottom of the Colenso Spur and have a bit of a hunt for Colenso's cairn. Unsurprisingly (in retrospect) unsuccessfully.

Thinking that Barlow hut is not too much further up river I potter on. There's still wheel tracks in the river bed and rounding a corner I find a ute with dog boxes. Quite a long way into the park.

The river valley is pleasant enough but suspicion is dawning about how dim I've been. I reach a large side creek which must be the junction at the foot of Colenso spur - accept that where the map shows the cairn and track there is a bit of a cliff. I side track up the stream a little way but no dice. Returning to the river I follow the cliff face a short way and see a DOC sign on the bank above my head: "Lake Colenso 6 Hours" - some one has scratched "9+" above the 6. It's about 10.50 so the morning is starting to get a bit old.

If you're looking for this track - for a start, take both maps and follow them so you know where you are. The spur track comes out on the main river valley just up from the stream junction, there's a wee scramble up to the DOC sign and the cairn is just around the corner on the track.

Looking down river from bottom of track - stream around to right,
main river on other side of 'island' close on left

Wee scramble up to start of track

Look closely and you can see someone thinks this is a bit optimistic

The cairn is modest but has some significance - there's not many sites like this in the Ruahine and Tararua Ranges that I know of so I'm pleased to have found it.

Knowing where I am now I'm a bit happier. After a bit more river bed wandering, at 11.20 an orange triangle on a terrace marks Barlow Hut.  A bit under 3 hrs from the car so the DOC sign is a good indication (2-3 hrs).

It's black, lockwood and in good nick. Three packs inside and a deer head by the steps indicate that hunters are in the vicinity although there's nothing in the log.

By the time I have topped up water, filled in the log and had a bite it's 11.40 and getting unlikely that I'll make Colenso Hut via the planned ridge route. If the mystery sign writer is right and it's 9+ hours by the creek route, it will be well dark by the time I get there.

I can't see any track markers around the hut so waste a bit of time popping down to the river to see where the marked creek joins - nothing to be seen. Back at the hut I have a closer look and finally find a triangle on a tree by the loo.

Another tip - the track does exactly what it says on the map but the marked stream may be notable by its absence.

The track starts climbing and quite soon I can hear the stream cascading down on my right - it must disappear into the ground - anyway, I completely forget to look for the marked pond on my left.

It's a pretty steep grind 300m up to the spur proper where I rejoin the track from the cairn. DOC is insisting that it is now only 5 hrs 30 to Lake Colenso.  It's 12.25 and I take a bit of a rest after the first climb and am a bit surprised at how tired I'm feeling - I should be a little more spry than this.

The next section is a very pleasant amble through forest which gently climbs before hurling itself upwards again. I have visions of Colenso strolling the same route and wonder who would have been in his party besides Paora Kaiwhata, what they would be carrying and how long they would have taken to cover mostly trackless and strange country (although his guide probably knew perfectly well where they were going).

An hour later I'm at the bushline and have another break looking out below steely clouds towards bone dry farmland. The weather is still holding off, for now.

Snowberry (karopuka) is fruiting in profusion. There's a mix of white and red fruit with some pink thrown in (I think not on the same plant but can't swear to this). They don't taste of much but look beautiful and have a pleasant texture - there are so many I wonder if anything is actually eating them apart from the occasional tramper.  You can imagine that kea would love them and maybe even kaka, but in their absence what other birds would be cruising about above the bushline that would have an interest and the right beak?

Colenso Spur

Just after 2pm I'm dragging myself onto the top of Te Atua Mahuru when something catches my eye - the remains of the trig which looks like it's been blown off the top. Sure enough there is a trig stump at the top and a not blown over cairn.

North along the tops

Range south - to Maroparea and other familiar places 

It's taken about 5 hrs 30 from the car by the longer route so the modern DOC times are still holding true (4-5 hrs direct to the range skipping Barlow Hut). I pull on another layer and coat and collapse in the tussock for a lunch. Given the time the most sensible route now is my first contingency plan: follow an old track off the ridge then the stream to Colenso Hut.

Home command acknowledges the change as a few fat spots of rain wring themselves from the lowering cloud.  Mercifully for me (but not the parched land) that's all it manages for now.

The slip on the NW face of the ridge just SW of Te Atua Mahuru is obvious, as is the wee knob on the ridge above the true left edge of the face. There's a stick with a couple of DOC triangles wired to it propped in a pile of rocks.  It doesn't look very permanent but it confirms this is the right place to start the descent (2.35).

There's barely any foot trail down the steep spur at the side of the slip face but another stick with markers confirms the route.  After this there's a bit more foot trail either on the edge of the slip face or on the crest of the steep wee spur. The trick is not to be lured left into the gully and I suspect the erosion chutes on the right would get too steep.

The trail drops into stunted beech and then into taller forest - it's often unclear and it's easy to drift too far left. After about 25 minutes I see I've drifted onto a side spur and make my way right to find some DOC triangles. I follow this spur down losing and finding the foot pad.

About 45 minutes from the top I pop out on the side creek's shingle fan, a little above the valley floor. Looking back there's a large triangle high in the bush edge but you would have to be looking out for it.

Just off the spur on the side stream
looking down the valley

Bottom of the spur - there's an orange triangle there somewhere

The valley floor is a bit of a jumble of rocks but it's not too bad and an hour after leaving the ridge I reach the junction where the stream takes a hard left and starts winding down the steep sided valley between the two ridges I had been intending to travel this weekend.

It's pretty good going - a few minor gorgy bits, but with the river at low flow I keep my feet mostly dry. There's some spectacular cliffs and you would want to be very careful about dropping off the ridges above.

The fatigue that has dogged my morning hasn't gone away and my frame of mind is not helped when it starts to rain. I'm thoroughly fed up with the stream travel but the hut can't be too far so I stump on muttering and swearing as the river bed gets progressively slipperier.

Fortunately, the next corner brings me onto broad flats covered in lupin with Colenso Hut on a low terrace.

Flats from the hut

It's 5.35, so 9 hours from the car and 5 hrs from the DOC sign on Colenso Spur that said 5hr 30. So, as you'd expect, the older DOC signs can be a bit on the lean side for a larger party or in poor conditions.  Given my light pack and low flow conditions it probably pays to add a bit of allowance.

The hut is tidy and empty. It's another one that gets a lot of use by the Whio Protectors and is accordingly, immaculately looked after. The last log entry is over three weeks ago.

The lake is about 300m away so I pop along while it is still light. The surrounding forest is beautiful with huge emergents, a rich understory and mossy banks.

The track arrives at the lake edge without ceremony; there's a bit of a window but it's a little difficult to get a perspective of the lake's size. An upside down duck gets a hell of a fright when it rights itself and hears someone say boo.

On no authority I would say it's the biggest natural lake in the Ruahine or Tararua Ranges and its interesting to speculate how this large flat area with what is probably a quite shallow dip was formed. Looking at some of the surrounding scarps I wonder if it is a harder limestone layer remaining after softer overlying sediments have washed away.

Whatever - despite the rain dulled surface and mist shrouding the ridges behind, I am enjoying the simple novelty of a vista that is unusual in this part of the world: forest on the far side of an isolated lake.

Back at the hut I settle in for dinner. The main task for the evening is to plan tomorrow's route so I can leave an accurate plan in the log (as it will differ from my original intentions).

I'm reluctant to give away my planned ridge route to Maroparea via the high point Waikamaka, but have to accept that it would be a bit fool hardy to load the tough stuff into the start of the day. I figure there will be plenty to see on the track via Unknown Campsite to pt 1293 and a bit of untracked ridge up to 1450 will give a bit more interest. After this I can pick an exit route based on rate of progress and level of fatigue. Satisfied, I drift off to the sound of rain drumming on the roof.

I have a good sleep despite the odd twitches or twinge of cramp reminding me that my body hasn't handled the day as well as it should.

In the morning there is little wind and although the rain has stopped it feels like it is lurking not too far away. The clag is gathered around the hills and the basin looks like a film set for Jurassic Park.

Despite best intentions it's 7.15 before I get away. The bush is damp but you can almost hear it inhaling the moisture after the long dry.

The track meanders along then drops towards the river before starting to climb. There's a marked junction (7.40ish) to Iron Bark Hut but I'm following the track over the ridge to Unknown Campsite. There's a bit of a steep climb on a sharp spur with the land dropping steeply to the basin below. The lake is almost visible through the mist below - it must be a pretty view on a clear day.

Through out this area there seems to be a lot of new traps

The track drops into a long flat saddle with more tall forest before a bit of a mucky drop into the next valley - depositing me at the stream edge at 8.25. It you're coming up stream, the marking is not obvious - there's a wee limestone bank on the left before a log jam then the track climbs up a steep ferny bank.

Stream just below where track heads up to left

The narrow stream valley has some interesting rock formations with sections of river bed that look like someone has dumped the contents of a concrete truck.

The stream abruptly emerges at a junction with some flats - Unknown Campsite. Not so unknown now - there's a big flat area above the junction with a frame and tarps already to set up a large camp. Time to top up the water and start the long climb to the main range.

The track is good quality, climbing steeply at first it eases then rises gently on a broad ridge under a high canopy. It really is beautiful forest here - well worth the effort of admission.

I notice that the trap numbers are counting down and work out that they are about 100m apart and that trap 1 will be at the track junction east of Puketaramea. This is a good and a bad thing - telling me both where I am and how fast I'm not going.

I stop for a breather at the last trap of the U(nknown) line and break out the coat. The weather is cooling and to the south rainy looking mist haunts the valley.

The track drops to a saddle then climbs to pt 1293 where it drops to Maropea Forks Hut and I leave it to continue along the ridge. I figure that it's inconceivable that lots of someone elses will not have done the same.  It's hard to tell - there's signs that people have come this way but not what you would call frequently.

On the way out of the first saddle a deer crashes away up slope so I bark. It barks back and we keep it up - it stays just ahead out of eyesight until near the top when it must have got my wind and scarpers off the side of the slope.

It gets colder again and I now have gloves and balaclava on. At one point there's a clearing with a clay area and a cairn - possibly marking the top of the spur pointing directly down to the Maropea Forks Hut. Then it's a cold damp climb to 1450 and the track.

It's similar conditions to last time but this time the clag starts to clear as I head ENE towards Maroparea. It comes back again but not before I have rectified my previous mistake and sidled the top to gain the ridge.

After a final few flurries the clag mostly retreats and I can saunter along enjoying the novelty of having a view.

North to Maroparea - pt 1450 on left 

On the climb to Orupu a shape catches my eye - it's a falcon that has decided not to stick around as I approach. It cruises easily up the slope to disappear some where just below the top. In level flight they certainly don't give the impression of a bird capable of eye-watering top speeds.

Second time along I manage to pick some better lines and avoid a bit of scrub but I'm still not sure where the trail runs the last little bit to the warratahs marking Sparrowhawk Biv - never mind, I drop down to the Biv with lunch on my mind while the clag creeps back like a guilty dog. It's 1.45, 5hr 30 from Colenso Hut.

My game plan from here was to head up to 1476 and take a spur down to Gold Creek Hut. I'd read a report of someone trying the spur to the south of Maropea but it sounded a bit horrendous so I hoped the next one south might be a bit better. However, if it doesn't go well I will be running short of light - the alternative is a quick exit down Sparrowhawk track from the biv.

By the end of lunch I've made up my mind - I've already dropped two planned ridge routes this weekend and I'm unwilling to chicken out a third time. I know the river bed will be navigable by torchlight.  I head off about 2pm.

Shortly after leaving the biv another falcon cruises away at my approach. After that it's an uneventful trudge uphill, over Maropea, down into the saddle and into the next steep climb. I save a bit of effort with a well timed sidle that brings me directly across slope to the edge of the scrub above my spur. Just over an hour from the hut.

It's not too bad down through the scrub into the stunted trees - it's pretty overgrown but a very old cut branch indicates someone has used this route previously. Stunted beech gives way to taller forest with cutty grass under foot (great at hiding windfall and stumps). Most of the way down it's overgrown and basically game trails.

The spur is often hard to distinguish but I stubbornly persevere until I'm teetering along a knife edge between the creeks to a final steep scramble to the bottom.  The hut is just a few minutes walk upstream.

It's 4.45 so it's taken 2 hr 45 to get from Sparrow Hawk Biv and down the spur.  Gold Creek Hut is another standard orange number and doesn't seem to get a lot of visitors which is unsurprising given that it's not on the way to anywhere for most sensible trampers.

At 5pm I head a short way upstream to a DOC sign indicating where the track climbs out of the valley to the ridge - 3 hr 30 to the Makaroro river, which I hope to trim a bit.

It's a short steep climb out of the valley onto the ridge. Once on top a wide rolling track leads gently along and down and I can clip along at a reasonable pace.

Eventually it seems that I have dropped a lot of height but the track pops out above farmland with enough height to give a good view down the river with the tawny dry flats catching the afternoon sun.

View down Makororo River from the tail end of the spur

A DOC sign informs me that the track follows the fenceline for a kilometre and pops me through a gate. It's steep and a bit slippery but pretty quick on the edge of the farmland. I'm soon at the bottom of the spur at another gate. It's pretty overgrown through the second gate but there's a DOC sign (pointing up the wrong side of the fenceline - tip:  if you're going up, ignore it and head across the bottom of the spur to the gate into the paddock). Immediately after I'm on a bank above the stream at another DOC sign.

At 6.20pm it's taken an hour 20 to get here so I'm relaxed about the daylight now.

Straight across the river from the stream mouth (exactly where the hunter pointed) there's the start of a track. It's unmarked but there's a cut branch and a bit of a dirt slide on the bush edge. After an initial scramble it follows a good bench that zigzags up to the terrace above. This follows an old road that suddenly spits out onto the end of the forestry road (older maps may label this Makororo Road - it took about 13 minutes from the bottom of the spur).

The late afternoon sun sends a long shadow ahead as I trudge along in the dust. This sort of walking is a bit tedious (which is why I could never do the Te Araroa Trail) but it's not long before I reach some DOC signs marking where various tracks hive off.  It's just before 7pm.

After this the DOC marking is a bit remiss. The right turn to get back to my road end is not marked except with a forestry street sign so I stroll straight past it. Before too long I get suspicious and hook out the map. Returning to the junction with a few choice expletives I follow the narrowing and overgrown road, it drops off the terrace then widens and pops out at an unmarked intersection where I drop left to get back to the river.

I wade in and let my hot boots fill with cool water.

On the other side the flats are losing the sun but it's lingering on the clay cliffs across the river.  I plod back up the road to the car arriving about 7.30.

Postscript

Setting aside the initial absentmindedness ... Colenso cairn - box ticked, Barlow Hut - ditto, stream route to Colenso - very pleasant, Colenso Hut - box ticked, Colenso Lake - very pleased to have got there and some really beautiful forest from there through to Puketaramea. Ridge from 1293 to 1450 - not heavily travelled but better than dropping to the river that's for sure. Nice to see the tops this time and stoked to see a couple of falcons. Spur from 1476 - doable but a bit manky in places, if you must do it, drop off it before the hut rather than riding it to the junction. Gold Creek Hut - tick, Ridge Track out - pretty enough.

My slack map reading aside here's a few warnings about the maps and signage for this road end:
The DOC info board and carpark is obvious, it's just before the road takes a sharp bend through a gate and off the edge of a terrace through pine trees. The surface was pretty good but it says 4WD only - it's only about a km to the river anyway.

The newest online map shows the road ending by the river at an historic mill site ( I didn't look for this). Older versions (including some online versions and the one above) show the road crossing the river and continuing up the other side before taking a hard right and heading off east then north. The newer maps have renamed the road on the other side as Makororo Rd.

So, you've parked and followed the road down to the river.  You can walk up the river bed - it's not too bad going - but I think it is quicker to cross the river and follow the 4WD track (marked and reasonably obvious) into the trees, bear right at the next intersection and follow up the terrace edge to a large gravel forestry road. Follow this NW to the DOC signs for Yoeman's track, Park Peak etc. keep following the road marked on the map west until it runs out at the end of a straight and at the end of the pines (noting that the forestry bods might continue it left at some point). From here an old trail leads through regenerating bush and eventually turns into the track off the terrace (marked on the map).

From here the track to Sparrowhawk is quickly found as marked on the map but see my previous comments about cutting across the base of the spur to the paddock before starting to climb to Gold Creek Ridge.