There are some constraints on the plan - minimising how much previously visited territory is involved, leaving logical routes for the future without too much repeated territory, getting to a hut for the night, getting out in time for dinner in Tawa at 6pm, not biting off more than I can chew ...
The final plan is to go in at the lower Kashmir Road carpark, over the ridge to Daphne Hut, up the spur to Howlett's hut, along Daphne Ridge and climb to Tiraha. This is where I confront the mighty sawteeth on the way to Ohuinga. After that there is a drop to a saddle and climb to the southern point of Broken Ridge before dropping to Hinerua Hut. A possible side trip to Smith's Stream Hut for the night ended up being canned in favour of a shorter route out the next day from Hinerua down the ridge to the Tukituki River and up river to climb back over to the carpark.
Sitting back and looking at it I have mild concern about the net altitude gain on Saturday given my current level of fitness. However, the forecast looks basically good with a bit of cloud.
What: Tramp
When: 25-26 January 2020
Where: Sawtooth Ridge, Ruahine Range
Who: Solo
Maps
Up at 4.45 and I'm already near Masterton when the sun seeps over the horizon for the start of what is shaping to be a fine day.
There are three other vehicles and I wedge in without blocking anyone - one more would be tricky though.
The morning is already hot in the small valley at 8.50 as I get myself sorted and off through long grass - you would get soaked in a heavy dew. Sporadic poles mark a foot trail a little way down valley, across Moorcock stream then a side stream. Then the climb starts. There air is still and already baking. The 300m climb takes me above the opposite ridge giving views across the plains into a hazy distance.
 |
| Moorcock Saddle at right |
The scrub eventually gives way to forest shade and a short drop into a saddle where I meet a hunter. He's out for the day and after seeing a stag on the tops in the early morning is now looking for a marker to a clearing to stake out. He's seen two other hunters.
Another 200m up and I'm at the ridge for the long potter down to the river. Long tailed cuckoos are calling but as I approach they either fall silent or give an alarm call zweet! zweet! followed by a scolding/alarm Zweetzweetzweetzweet! before lighting out. I only manage to get a glimpse of one in looping flight as it heads for less disturbed pastures. Interestingly I don't hear them in the valleys during the weekend.
I bump in to a Canadian coming out after a few days and overnighting at Daphne; he confirms there are two hunters at Daphne and a man and two teenagers heading up to Howletts. The bush telegraph is working.
The odd break in the canopy gives a glimpse up towards Sawtooth ridge running away in the distance.
I keep my feet pretty much dry getting up to Daphne hut (11ish) where I stop to use the facilities and leave a note in the log. The two hunters and their wee dog are settling in for a bit of a rest after their morning hunt. They've picked up a spiker so reckon the pressure is off for the weekend. They'll probably head up a stream a bit later on, have an evening hunt then hunt out down the river in the morning. They're interested in my plans and think the distance for the day is a bit crazy - hunters and trampers think about terrain a bit differently.
I get away again around 11.20 and fill up with water before settling in for a long slow 700m climb to Daphne Ridge. It's very hot now, a wee breeze provides some relief higher up but I'm needing to take a few breaks to keep the heart rate at a reasonable level.
 |
| Last view of Daphne Hut |
At the bushline I catch up with the family group (at least I assume it's Dad plus two) sitting down for a snack. They've taken an even more leisurely approach than me but are staying at Howletts so have all day. It's a good excuse for a break and chat and I can give them a bit of intel about Daphne Ridge which they were wondering about travelling tomorrow. The boy and girl have their cellphones out but seem pretty happy about the experience which is impressive after the climb they've just done. I leave them to it expecting to see them at the hut before I leave.
There's still a bit of climb to the top but the breeze is stronger here and I get a bit of evapo-cooling as my sweat soaked bush shirt dries.
At the ridge the tops to the south look rounded and benign compared to those to the north. In the east, Black Ridge runs north along the headwaters of the Tukituki - I try to pick out the wee saddle where Tarn Biv is tucked off the other side of the ridge.
 |
| Howletts Hut |
At 1.10 I reach the unbelievably picturesque Howletts Hut and have a longer than necessary break for lunch. The family turn up as I'm preparing to leave and we end up chatting again. Asked about my route I think I point out the correct lump on the horizon as the south end of Broken Ridge and my last high point for the day. It seems a long way off.
 |
| View from the loo |
I finally get away at 1.55, the Ridge is easy for a while with a good foot trail that sidles when needed. Sawtooth Ridge is looking increasingly steep and craggy with proximity with some faces you wouldn't want to slip down.
 |
| Part of Sawtooth up to left, Ohuinga middle on horizon |
At the end of the ridge a solar garden light marks where the climb to Tiraha starts. The foot trail becomes harder to follow and fades as it curves across the face to climb steeply to the spur that approaches Tiraha from SSE. Although steepish the face is straightforward.
 |
| Looking back at Daphne Ridge Howletts Hut on lump beyond the bare bits |
 |
| Looking along Sawtooth Ridge |
Tiraha (1668m) at 3pm and a long sit down to study Sawtooth, admire the view and drink. The wind is getting up from the west and although high at present clouds are gathering in the west.
 |
| From Tiraha along Sawtooth Ridge |
Descending to the first tooth the ridge top has various wee foot trails and it's easy to find a way. I probably dropped a little low into a chute on the first craggy bit but soon scramble back up and find that there is generally a bit of a foot trail most of the way across with good sidles in many places. You have to watch carefully for where they head back to the crest though because you can end up in annoying tussock and low scrub or with a steepish bluffy bit to retreat from.
The wind starts getting up but so far is firm rather than frightening. There are plenty of bits where you are on a very narrow ridge top or scrambling with a bit of exposure but nothing I'm uncomfortable with and I never feel the need to stash my walking poles to have two hands completely free.
There are a few interesting looking spurs dropping east towards the Tukituki but I suspect they get steep and nasty once they drop out of sight.
 |
| Part way in, looking back to Tiraha |
 |
| Black Ridge - and interesting looking spur |
At the end of the teeth there's a bit of a climb to Ohuinga. On the way up the view behind opens up with Howletts hut a cheerful orange dot in the distance.
 |
| Narrow bits done - back towards Tiraha |
The wind is now a bit annoying and a few steps off the ridge to the right brings instant relief. The top of Ohuinga (1686m 4.50pm) gives views of what is reportedly an interesting stretch of ridge toward the Hikurangi Range and Mangaweka (1731m) - noted for future investigation (Hawkes Bay Ridge). Also, the tops I scrambled around in clag a week or so back (Paemutu, Rangioteatua ...). Below, the saddle I have to negotiate to the last high point for the day is not fully visible yet.
 |
| Hawkes Bay Ridge |
 |
| From Ohuinga to Broken Ridge Paemutu at left, spur to Hinerua at right |
Hoisting my pack I catch a whiff of meths. This could be a very irritating thing indicating cold dehy meals or having to light a fire. Fortunately I keep the bottle on the outside of my packliner so it won't damage anything if it leaks. Not too much has been lost - the bottle top must have been cross threaded so it might be time to lash out for a new Charlie's juice bottle.
There's not much of a trail through the saddle that I can see. I pick my way across the top of the wee basin where a water course is starting to form - the genesis of the Kawhatau River.
 |
| Back into the saddle, Black Ridge on left, Ohuinga top right |
A foot pad develops once I have climbed a bit and am on the spur that approaches Broken Ridge from the south. The wind is strong now and I need another long rest at the top (5.40pm). I'll not be going to Smiths Stream Hut tonight and send a text to confirm the changed intentions.
 |
| Broken Ridge to left, Pt 1715 on ridge at right |
The lee of Broken Ridge gives temporary relief from the wind as I chase my shadow down the long spur. As I progress more of the saddle between pt 1715 and Paemutu comes into view to the north west. The spire is just a dimple on the horizon from here.
 |
| Paemutu-1715 Saddle on horizon |
 |
| Knob in saddle at right, spire to left near centre |
There's a couple of bumps to negotiate on the way down and once again some nice sidles. They really do better on this front then the Tararua Ranges.
The wind and weaker late afternoon sun are draining the head from the day but I've paid my dues for a poor choice in clothing. A bit of a regroup in a sheltered wee basin to suck down most of the rest of my water, scoff a muesli bar and rest tired legs before tackling the last section of ridge along and down to the bushline. I note some doable looking options to drop to the stream above Smith's Stream Hut on the way.
The trail gets stronger and on the final knob the poled trail starts (around 7pm). It looks like there could be a viable spur route to the left and down to Smiths Stream.
 |
| From the last knob looking north along edge of range Start of track to Sunrise somewhere in the distance |
 |
| Spur from Smiths Stream Hut to 1715 runs from right |
 |
| Start of the marked route |
Once in the bush the track drops steeply but it takes a while to reach the saddle (7.20pm) where in short order there is a sign for the junction to Smiths Stream and then Hinerua hut (7.23).
 |
| Hinerua Hut |
At some point the wind has dropped away and the evening is now calm. So much so that the hum of a truly staggering number of blowflies is the loudest thing to be heard.
Hinerua is an old four bedder. The bunks are old and steel with new wooden slats and the tiny fire box has hot plates and a kettle. The loo is nowhere in the offing but I eventually find it further along, and pretty much on the track.
The familiar hut routine passes the time. I'm reading the log and waiting for the dinner water to boil when a tickle on my back turns out to be a large and healthy cockroach. A good blast with the spray (yep - the hut has bug spray so the flies, cockroaches or both are obviously a known feature) sees it scuttling off behind the table leg.
Over dinner a tickle on my barefoot heralds the cockroach's return, presumably for revenge or more of that stuff that made it a bit woozy. A smart blow with the can sorts the matter out and I have no more troubles.
The night is completely still. Outside the blurry stars wheel overhead (really should have worn my glasses to the loo) and I completely sleep through the earthquake that reportedly gave the lower North Island a bit of a jolt near mid-night.
I usually find that as I go to sleep and wake up I work through any decisions required for the morning. I wake to daylight and the knowledge that I won't be dropping to Smith's Stream and back before returning to the car. It's a good call but there is still a bit of a question mark about the route to the carpark. The DOC track follows the ridge and reaches private land before dropping to the Tukituki River.
I decide to head along and see if there are any signs or alternative routes. The starting Plan A is to head up the Tukituki river to the true right side stream before the track to the carpark and follow the stream up to where the track dips through a saddle.
The day is clear and blue and promises to be another scorcher. At least I'll be in bush and by water for a good chunk of it. I get away around 7.50 to head along a wide and well marked track, through a wee saddle to the junction at pt 1061. Heading right I follow down and along the ridge picking up reception to send a text along the way.
 |
| Pt 1061 |
 |
| Bush / farm edge |
The forest abruptly gives way to farmland (8.50am) - there's a newish fence with a style and no signs that I can see. I follow my nose down the steep and slippery slope beside the fence to the bottom where there is a DOC triangle and another style.
 |
| Tukituki River ahead right of centre |
To the south is the end of the ridge between the Tukituki and Moorcock Stream - I can see a building in the bush part way up. Although there are old 4WD tracks I can't see anything that looks like a drive so figure it is a private hut not a house.
To the south east is orderly farmland and the end of Mill Road - an access point but apparently requiring landowner permission.
Below the style the track is pretty overgrown and I lose and find it as it drops and follows old terraces to the bottom where there is a DOC triangle and sign in high grass. It's about 9.20.
 |
| Mill Road end and Moorcock Stream somewhere in centre |
At this point I could cross the river and head to the Mill Road Carpark (bad idea as it would then involve a long road walk to the car), head up Moorcock Creek to the carpark (likely to be quickest and easiest option but crossing a lot of farmland) or head right up river to exit to the carpark by the track I came in on.
I don't have permission so figure my best course is to follow up the Tukituki River and back into the park. I thread a way through grass and scrub to the river.
There are wet foot prints on the river bank and I work out there is a set heading up and back this morning - plus plenty of others of indeterminate age.
It's an easy potter up the river, I'm trying to avoid deep bits and managing to keep my feet dry. At one point early on I find an old benched trail on the true right that speeds progress up temporarily.
A long grassy flat on the true left and an orange triangle marks where Rosevalls track climbs 800m to Broken Ridge. It's about 10am so about 40 min up river from the bottom of the hill and 2hr 10 from the hut.
 |
| Rosevalls track at right |
10 minutes later orange cloth hanging on a branch on the true right catches my eye. It's a Stony Creek product with pockets and has a bag of tent pegs in it. I can't work out what it is an am tempted to remove it as rubbish but it looks new and it might have been left for pick up later so I leave it.
I'm now following fresh wet prints and suspect I will catch up with the person soon. I'm not keen on sneaking up on hunters so when I round a corner and see a figure under trees at the river edge, I give a whistle and wave. An answering wave indicates I won't be shot so I head up and stop for a chat.
The fisherman turns out to be staying at the lodge I saw and confirms that it is private. There's a fish in the pool that he's casing out but it seems that they are generally pretty small here abouts. He also saw the Stony Creek thing and refers to it as a meat bag.
Some of his mates are hunting and I'm a little disconcerted to hear that I have probably wandered past one on the way up. We talk about the area and he notes that there are private tracks on the true right valley side and he's a bit cagey about access. It seems to be another example of access control to favour mates and maintain hunting privileges.
He refers to the two larger creeks I have passed as Ranunculus and Government Creeks. Neither are marked as such on the map but there is a Government Spur. It's not the first time I've come across local names that don't feature on the maps.
A little further up valley movement catches my eye - a falcon is cruising at tree top height and a couple of swallows chase it out of sight. I wonder if it had a go at one and they were now taking advantage of it's lower maneuverability without the advantage of height and speed.
I haven't been seeing the number of true right tributaries that I'm expecting and at 11.25 am just thinking that I should study the map when I recognise the terrace I am crossing. Sure enough, I've overshot and got to the track.
It's a bit under a km back to the stream and although I'm tempted, I decide to cut my losses and just head out via the track.
It takes an hour 15 minutes of hot, slow, laborious plodding to get to the sign at the top of the carpark track. There are fewer cuckoos today and I assume they have the sense to be hunkered down somewhere out of the sun.
It's 12.40 so time for a good long lunch stop and to shed boots and bush shirt. A 25 minute break does wonders for my temperature.
As expected, once out of the forest the descent through scrub is even hotter than yesterday. Across the valley there's only my car in the park and it resolutely refuses to look any closer.
A camper van has turned up in the short time I have been out of sight. The couple are looking for a lake or river - so I point them to the track but suggest that they don't get their hopes up if they are thinking of swimming.
So, 2pm and that's it for the weekend's walk. My boots have built up an impressive pong having been hot, damp and walked in for two days so I'm pleased to sling them in a rubbish bag and liberate my feet.
The only thing now is to endure the hot trip back in time for 6pm dinner in Tawa - which I manage with five minutes to spare (a bit under four hours).
Postscript
The area around Kashmir Road has good huts and is pretty enough but sees a lot of hunters and trampers.Sawtooth was a nice section, I can see that it would be tricky in bad weather and a bit intimidating if you are worried about heights. Having a clear day pretty much removes the need for navigation and the views are fantastic.
The rest of the tops were pretty straight forward in this weather. There was a lot of up and down though and you have to be confident in your ability, fitness and know the viable bail out routes. It could take a long time to get to a hut in bad weather.
Although pretty tired after the long drive and walk on Saturday it was a reasonable day - I just made it worse for myself by not allowing for the temperature.
Hinerua Hut is a nice wee spot - basic and no views but sweet. There seems to be two access options to the park boundary from here with DOC tracks towards both - I think land owner permission is probably required for both but I don't know the details. I ended up crossing a bit of private land - it didn't look like a part of the farm where you would cause disruption (maybe avoid during lambing). An alternative could be to head SSE from the hut to the wee knob at 1000m and follow that spur down to the creek.
The Tukituki River was a good easy amble.
All up, a fun weekend that reminded me how fit I ain't.
No comments :
Post a Comment