Saturday 28 January 2017

South Saddle to Tapokopoko

Mike has organised a trip to Paua hut in the Orongorongos with options for the adventurous and not so adventurous. I have some ideas about a reccy along the ridge south of South Saddle in the wake of a suggestion from Tararua Tramping Club that a track be put through.

As usual, punters express interest then can't make it and on the Saturday morning Mike isn't quite up to the early start. Accordingly, the main assault party which is planning to climb to South Saddle then follow the ridge south to 797 and down the spur to Waerenga hut consists of me. This suits fine - the company would have been welcome but a smaller party opens the door to some variations that I have up my sleeve - depending on how the day pans out of course.

What:    Nav and Paua Hut chill out
Where:  Rimutaka Range south of South Saddle
When:   28 January 2017
Who:     Solo nav, then chill out with Angela, Mike, Toby, Jo, Rodrigo
Why:     Pick up a new section of the Rimutaka Range
Map:      Map

It's a little overcast but promising to be a good day as I leave the carpark shortly before 7.30 am. There's little of note on the way in.  I run into a ranger who is relatively new to the area, he's interested in my plans for the day but hasn't heard about a possible track along the ridge. He asks me to look out for a pair of secateurs he thinks he left on a post near the Turere bridge loos (I check but can't find them).


The main assault party

The river is a little up  and the course has changed since I was in last - there have been some big flows through which have cut new channels. Dry boots are not going to be a goer today.

I head up around Big Bend where I figure to introduce the first variation on the original plan. According to the map there is a bit of a face developing into a spur on the true right of goat stream. I scramble up into the bush and soon come across a respectable track running up river I follow it for a bit and it comes to a hut (probably the second north east of Goat Stream). I decide to back track a little and head up in order to be closer to Goat Stream. Sure enough I skirt around another hut a little higher up the hill and near the stream bed where a home made marker indicates a route to South Saddle - this is going to be easier than I thought!

There is a good foot trail which, as usual, is hard to decipher in parts but it is pretty good and there are a generation of markers including relatively recent ones for pest control.


This tree had five or six markers on it - go figure!

As I gain height the goat stream catchment on my right reveals its steep, eroded faces and later on there are occasional views back to Wellington. The going is pretty good.


Looking up into Goat Stream catchment

Looking down Goat Stream - my spur on the right

Across top of Goat Stream towards Wellington

Although overcast, the sun is cracking through at times and I'm feeling the heat. Around 500m the spur joins a big spur that runs up beside Matthews stream. There are a lot of pest markers around and it looks like there is a route up that spur (this had been my plan A). There is also some home made markers indicating a sidle route to South Saddle. I'm a bit tempted but am in climbing mode so keep following the steepening spur to the main ridge.

There is nothing remarkable about the top of the spur - it rounds off into messy bush. You can fight to the edge of the slip face for a view east but I don't bother back tracking to see if there is a view over the saddle. The pest control teams have been through though and there are traps and tape markers for a way along the ridge which makes the going a bit smoother for a short while until they run out (I think less than half a K past 701).

An occasional clearing gives views in all directions and are not as difficult to navigate as those further south. I'm even treated to a fine view of Mt Matthew's backside. The wind sculpted beech, weathered stumps and epiphyte festooned trees testify to the weather conditions that predominate.








From 701 the occasional view south west gives a perspective of the main ridge and the various important spurs including the original target for the day (from 797 to Waerenga hut). I'm thinking though that there is plenty of time to potter along a bit further.


797 with the spur running west to Waerenga hut
After 701 the ridge dips into a saddle then climbs. I can't find much in the way of tracks - even animal tracks seem a bit scarce. Consequently I vacillate between walking the knife edge on the ridge top, picking through scrub above the steep western slopes or grovelling through steep slippery bush on the eastern side. At one point I dislodge a boulder which smashes down through the bush for a long while before dropping out onto an eroded face where it booms and crashes its way out of ear shot. I continue to sidle picking hand and foot holds with care.


Unnamed knob with the spur down true right of Mukamuka stream running to the left

The ridge leading to 797 provides views down Brown's stream to Turere Bridge where I can just make out tiny dots that could be people enjoying the patches of sun on the river bed. It's a fantastic perspective on the valley below. The ridge also provides the on going challenges of windfall clearings with tree trunks rotting into deep grassy scrub.

Looking west the clouds are gathering and the patches of sun are getting smaller. Still, it's a damn sight more pleasant than a previous time up here.



Down Browns Stream towards Turere Bridge



Not the easiest country to navigate

Mt Matthews in centre - ridge north running to the left

Point 797 is every bit as unremarkable as I remember it. I take a breather and, as it is only 11.20, notify home command that I'll keep going past 797 to Tapokopoko to descend Paua Ridge.

This now marks territory that I have traveled on a trip up the spur from Waerenga hut then south to 743. The top is rounded and covered in fairly thick bush. I don't identify anything marking the top and take a compass bearing to find the continuation of the ridge.

I soon find myself in a 'clearing' which is pretty unpleasant to work through and it's a while before I can make my way into more open bush. I'm not sure whether I have twice missed an obvious route (quite possible) or whether there is no easy passage.

Once the ridge is a bit more distinct there is often a bit of a trail along the south eastern side but it is pretty overgrown so not exactly speedy going.



A brief window to Palliser Bay

Approaching 768 the top of the ridge gets kind of complicated. There is an open notch or gully which is apparently traversed by many animals and provides a by pass behind 768 - last time through I missed 768 in the clag and had a bit of trouble making sense of what my compass was telling me. This time there are no troubles apart from a brief struggle through a clearing. I startle a deer which bounds off from less than 20m away - it must have been deaf given the noise I was making.

 Shortly after I break out onto a virtual lawn leading towards Tapokopoko.


Notch along the ridge near 768 

A glimpse of a sunnier Wairarapa

I take a break sitting on the grassy slope looking out towards Wellington. Figuring it's a short hop now to Tapokopoko I reach for my map only to discover an empty pocket. I'm more irritated than concerned. Up until now I thought my Merino cycle top was an excellent tramping shirt. Apparently maps can work their way out of the back pocket even when squashed in by the hip belt. Aside from the question of litter there is now the small matter of finding and navigating down the spur.

I follow an animal trail up the clearing which rapidly degenerates into a thrash through scrubby bush - I did this last time too - there has to be a better route! After a bit of a climb the bush opens and the ridge flattens - I'm pretty confident that I will recognise the human detritus that marks the top and sure enough soon see ample signs of previous visitors - official and otherwise. It's about 1:10 now so plenty of daylight to get lost and found in.


Sign marking ecological study area

Top of Tapokopoko

I remember from the map that the spur is quite well shaped most of the way and that it flattens then jinks right towards the bottom. As it happens there are markers from the top and I am soon following a good ground trail. It is pretty easy going most of the way - occasionally the spur broadens and I lose the trail but things go pretty smoothly. At one point a trickle runs out of the ridge and someone has carefully built up a wee pool and left a trowel beside it. I clear the leaves out and use the trowel to do some repairs but have enough water for now.



Paua oasis

Around 250m the ridge jinks and I neglect to. I find the marked stream but make the mistake of following some markers that someone has laid running towards Nettle Stream. This ends up with a steep scramble down a scrubby face and a short plummet into a ditch full of gorse. It's nice to be standing on the flat 4WD road but I'm not sure which direction Paua Hut is in - the shape of the valley floor doesn't tally with my memory of the map so I set off in the wrong direction for a while before common sense reasserts itself. The cloud has gone and the afternoon is now baking hot as I trudge up the valley.

Paua hut is located at the foot of a spur in open beech forest. The forest ends abruptly in a cliff providing a shady balcony to sit and gaze up the sunny river bed. This is exactly where I find the rest of the party reclining in the shade. It's about 2.30 so there is plenty of afternoon left for relaxing.

The numbers have dwindled to the point that Jo and Rodrigo are the only non-family members present. They have come in along Cattle Ridge and down Browns Track and appear to have spent a bit of time browsing and drowsing after their exertions. They still have plenty of energy though so Mike wanders up river with them leaving Angela and I to chat the afternoon away - very pleasant indeed.


Anglela contemplates the river

While we are sitting a hunter staggers out of Greens Stream below us and totters off up valley. He's either drunk or carrying something very heavy. We can't quite make it out but he plumps himself down by the river and spends an awfully long time composing himself. He takes his boots off and dunks his feet in the river and just sits there. Eventually he starts fiddling with his gear and then finally stands up and props his pack up. There's a brief struggle and then he's standing again before wobbling off and around the corner.

Throughout all this we are hoping that Mike and co will return and be able to tell us what was so heavy - no such luck. We have started dinner by the time they get back and it turns out that they kept wandering all the way up to Matthews Stream. In the course of this they confirm that the best swimming hole is in the river just below Paua hut - Jo and Rodrigo head down for a dip while Angela and I get on with our respective dinners.

Toby has spent the entire afternoon in his tent and barely emerges in the evening before turning in for the night. What has that boy been up to!?  The rest of us eat and enjoy a clean skin bottle of wine that Jo has brought - a very approachable shiraz is the verdict. Angela, Mike and Toby are in tents so with three in the hut that's about the perfect number to my mind. The night is quiet with a bit of wind in the trees and plenty of stars should one have been inclined to venture out.

In the morning Angela and Toby have to shoot through first to make another commitment so the rest of us have a leisurely breakfast before tidying up. Paua Hut is owned by the Wellington Tramping and Mountaineering Club and can be hired (members free - $7 for others). It has water, loo, gas and assorted crockery so you don't actually need to bring much kit (all the more space for pate and wine).


Jo, Mike, Rodrigo, Paua Hut

It's after 10 by the time we head out and amble up the river to Turere bridge. There's plenty of other people about including a family hunting group who had bagged three deer. There's another large group or two at Turere bridge and a fairly steady stream of people coming in. We take it easy and follow the main track apart from a short detour along the other side of the stream for the last half K or so.

Jo modeling suitable footwear for river travel

All up another successful weekend. I covered my quota of new territory and still had time for more social activities. The ridge south of South Saddle has some brilliant views and challenging terrain. Admittedly, a track would bring more people into a sensitive and, in places, fragile environment and there are parts off the ridge where it would be a challenge to establish a stable track. However, on balance I think the area can sustain more visitors and I think there is still enough near-wilderness experiences north of Mt Matthews for the more adventurous. 

Whether the powers-that-be will be convinced it is a good idea and if so whether there is funding for construction and upkeep is another thing entirely.

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