We set off up the coast towards Karamea; it's probably 30 years since I came through here in the mail van after tramping the Heaphy. I can't say any of it rings a bell though.
North of Westport, Waimangaroa marks the turn off to Denniston, the incline and some of the better known West Coast coal mining history (the book Denniston Rose is a good starter). Towards Ngakawau the presence of the active Stockton mine pervades the landscape, much as it pervades the Westport community. A cable way can be seen bringing coal down and the area is busy. The houses along this stretch are a bit mixed (some quite run down) although there is some spin off business; Pete points to a row of cabins behind the pub set up for workers from "away."
The flat coastal strip has narrowed as we travel north until some flats at the mouth of the Mohikinui river where the road ducks in land then up to the Karamea bluffs (420m). We ignore the sign to Seddonville which provides access to the Old Ghost Road which follows much of the river's course as it drains a substantial area of real estate. A long windy time later we emerge onto the rich green pasture with Karamea in the distance. Things look prosperous and there even seems to be a better class of weather.
10 or so K up the road from Karamea we take a gravel road to the Oparara arch. Near the start a derelict saw mill has tumbled into ruin but used to be one of many processing native forest in the area. Pete knew the bloke when it was operating and his son still lives in the area. The confrontation and acrimony that accompanied the demise of native logging in the area is still fresh in the memory but does not appear to have sounded the death knell of the local community.
It's a long drive on a well formed gravel road to an immaculate DoC set up with information boards. A short walk through beautiful bush following a beer coloured stream (some prefer tea coloured) takes us to the Oparara arch. Granite and lime stone boulders line the stream as the track skirts above. Rounding a corner the arch comes into view hanging high over head (37m).
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| Some bloke pretending to be Craig Potton |
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| Rock hovering over head in a way it shouldn't |
The limestone looks hard but the stream has cut a large passage through and down into the granite below. The juxtaposition of the two rocks one being 6-7 times as old as the other is intriguing. The green of the bush, golden brown of the stream and the different rocks make it an unlikely and beautiful scene.
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| Granite below, limestone above |
Another bush walk takes us to a tarn hemmed in by bush where black, still water reflects the trees above.
Returning to the coast we drive the last few kms to the Kohaihai river; the end of the road and the start of the Heaphy Track. On the way Pete points to a row of Nikau standing in a paddock; forlorn but iconic. Apparently these are the subject of more than one artists and photographers efforts.
At the Kohaihai river we walk a little way up the Heaphy track under a blue sky. Nikaus are now ubiquitous. Fantails flick above the trees and land at our feet, Weka lurk about around the track. The low forest is dominated by Nikau and in the bright sun it has the look of a tropical island.
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| Bridge over the river Kohaihai |
I'm getting itchy pedal feet knowing that there is 70 and more K of single track between here and Golden Bay. Maybe I could change plans and start a South-North traverse tomorrow...
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| You want to bike the track? Here's the deal ... |
We head back as the evening light streams under a cloud bank and across the sea casting the green farm land into vibrant relief against the dark hills behind. There's a strong sense of the wild and rugged expanse of the Kahurangis squeezing this narrow strip of coastal communities against the sea.
It's mild in Karamea despite clouds on all horizons. Pete feigns offence at the implication that I might be surprised the Coast gets any good weather. Of course Longitude wise Karamea is on a par with Wellington and Nelson.
We stop at the Last Resort for a very good coffee and pie ("of course it's good, don't you think we've heard of coffee down here? Bloody townies!"). The owners come by the table for a chat, both are local and have brought the place not so long back. They seem to have a good formula in place with a cafe/restaurant one side of the large wood beamed space and a bar on the other. A group of older locals are ensconced already so hopefully they can keep the regulars as well as catering to travellers. You can't help but wish them all the best with the venture.
One of the chaps at the bar recognises Pete and there is some good natured banter based on historic rugby club rivalries as we leave ("Go the Stars!").
A little further down the road is Little Wanganui, then off the road a bit a subdivision. We pop down to see a mix of baches nestled below limestone bluffs catching the very last of the sun. With the estuary nearby this looks like a whitebaiter's dream.
The sun has dipped below the horizon now and catches the clouds on the Radiant Range as we climb the bluffs road again. Lights at the Stockton mine are visible scattered across the plateau to the south but it's dark when we drive through Ngakawau and see processions of vehicles leaving and arriving as the shift changes. All vehicles are numbered and everyone on the street are wearing overalls with reflective strips; it's a visible reminder of the reach of the mine into the local community (and its importance).
We join the queue heading back to Westport passing a single light high on the dark hills marking the location of Denniston.
After another very good meal and yarn over another good bottle of wine; my day off is over.
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