Possumers Hut - Kapakapanui

As an end in itself, hut bagging is not usually my thing.  However, it's as good as an excuse as any to go somewhere and Janine will sometimes rope me in when the objective is off track.  Today it's an old possumer's hut off the side of the Kapakapanui Circuit Track.

  

What:   Hut bagging - Possumer's Hut
Where: Kapakapanui - behind Waikanae
When:  28 March 2021
Who:    Janine and Angela

Website

The hut baggers website has the location and details so I'm not expecting this to be a difficult navigation exercise.  They list it as "Thornhill Possumer's Hut" noting it is the second on the site - the previous called Kohlers Hut.

I don't know where the name 'Thornhill' comes from, but the search prompts me to try to find the significance of Kapakapanui.  The first website that comes up is the local school seeking feedback on a proposal to change their name from a shortened and meaningless 'Kapanui' to the correct form.  They note that:

"The name Kapakapanui came from a waka (canoe) which travelled to Kapiti in the 1800s.  Along with other waka, these name[s] were used to symbolise mana whenua or land occupation."

I won't prolong the trip description here - I've passed through this area a few times, the first trip write-up is in 2013 has a halfway useful description of the Circuit.  

It's a slow climb to the wee knob at 852 which signals that the turn-off to the hut is a bit over 100m higher.  Janine has her GPS, but I'm interested to see if the access point is obvious through more traditional means of navigation.  I find what I think is the likely spot and wait for Janine to confirm.  There's a distinctive bent branch on the track and a faint foot trail turning off to run downhill.  A short way down the hut comes into view.    

It's seen better days - the roof has a disintegrating tarp over it, there's no glass in the window and the inside is a bit ... slimy.  However, the hutbagger website indicates that by May someone has done a bit of reno including perspex in the window and plywood repairs to the floor.  Someone fairly determined I think, as it would be quite a proposition wrestling even a small sheet of ply up that track.      

And that's pretty much it really.  We complete the circuit with the cloud ceiling high enough that we have reasonable views from the top. 

The hut itself is such a short way off the track it's worth popping in for a look as a point of minor interest on the circuit.  For the truly avid bagger, further around the circuit near the Kapakapanui Hut the hutbagger website notes that Henderson's Shelter was located but subsequently removed.  It was in the saddle between pt 890 and the Pukeatua Track - I found some bits of iron and other debris when passing through which I suspect were the remains.

A happy hutbagger

Shutes Hut and northern Ruahine Range

This is the belated write up of my New Year trip from January 2021.   I'd fitted in a couple of  MTB day trips at the end of December, but back in Wellington the feet were getting itchy and I figured there was time for one more jaunt before knuckling down on COVID again.

The far north of the Ruahine Range is notoriously difficult to access but there is public access from Comet Road which heads south off the Taihape-Napier Road.  I assume the name is a bastardisation of Kaikomata which is the name of the range.  

What:      Just hut bagging really  

Where:     Northern Ruahine Range

When:     5 - 7 January 2021

Who:       Solo

As Comet Road climbs to the top of the range, there are a couple of sections that are a bit marginal in the MX5 but we don't have to resort to plan B of dropping me off to walk in.  The support crew is ok to drive out but not keen to tackle it uphill, so I will be walking out.  

There's a hut at the road end (Comet Hut) - I'm assuming that it's pretty rough so despite the relatively late hour I decide to push to Shutes Hut or camp on the way.  It's 7.30pm as I wave good bye and head into the scrub. 

Comet Hut

In the East, the farmland in the Tararua River headwaters is catching the late afternoon sun.  I'll be crossing the river this evening if I'm comfortable with light and water level. 

The track climbs through scrub and regen before entering manky pine on the ridge top - a long redundant trig lurks among the trunks (20 minutes in).

  

After a couple of Ks of relative flat, the track dives out of the pines and off the edge of the erosion scared gorge that the Taruarau River has carved across the northern end of the Ruahine Range. 

Taruarau River

It's a steep descent and getting pretty dim by the time I reach the river.  It's running low though and easy to cross.  I can't see where the track runs on the other side and waste a bit of time casting around - in the end just fossicking through scrub and grass until I see a triangle.  I quickly lose it again though and end up bashing up slope in the dark.  Stopping to check the map I realise my mistake and head up and across, to drop over a wee spur to join the track as it follows up above a wee stream.  

A junction and sign emerge out of the gloom and shortly there is a grassy clearing.  The hut is in there somewhere, but it's surprisingly difficult to navigate - the grass is chest high, pigs have ripped up the ground and there's no discernable path.  

The hut is identified on the map as 'Shutes Hut (Historic)'.  The 'historic' could mean anything from a few sheets of moldering iron to a lovingly restored relic.  Fortunately, the structure that looms in the torchlight is closer to the latter than the former.  It's 10:15 so about  2 hr 45 from the road end.  

I settle in for a late dinner and perusal of the log book.  There's entries back to 1985 which is good to see, and a plaque at the door giving a bit of history.  It's pretty rustic inside with branches lining the bunks but with an iron roof and mattresses it is perfectly comfortable. 

In the morning I can assess the scene.  There's a wee stream nearby and cabbage trees which I assume have been deliberately planted. The surrounding slopes look like regenerating natives - not a pretty landscape but heading in the right direction.

The plan for the day is to follow the marked track east than south to Ruahine Hut then assess and consider dropping to the romantically named Dead Dog Hut.  I get away about 7.40 - the track is marked but doesn't seem to have a lot of traffic.  It climbs then sidles across slopes high above the Taruarua River.  

The drop to Koau Stream is steep and I'm pretty hot by the time I reach the bottom.  A dip in the creek is very welcome.   It's about 10am so still not the heat of the day.  There's an old shed moldering into the landscape - no indication of purpose but pretty small and light weight.  

The track is not easy to follow but I find some indications a little up stream and zig zag steeply up old slip faces to the ridge.  It's really heating up now and the swim is long forgotten.

Looking back into Koau Stream

Around 1.20 I've dropped to Waitutu Stream and take the chance to sit in the cool air for a while and watch a spider spin a web above the water.  

 

Then it's another climb and wander through a mix of open scrub and bush.  Finally the track broadens into 4WD proportions under regenerating trees and pops out at Ruahine Hut. 2.20 pm so 6 hr 40 from Shutes, at not what you would call a cracking pace.

I take over half an hour for a rest and lunch.  I also have a think about plans and decide to miss the Dead Dog.  It's a shame, as it and Herricks Hut are a pain to get to without landowner permission, and I can't see myself bothering to get up this way again anytime soon.  The revised plan involves a long road haul but it is mercifully clouding over.  I get away a bit before 3pm.

It's a pretty tedious section - the road is well used and it's a hard trudge.  I have a look at Rakautaonga (pt 1119) as there is apparently a route down to the stream above Dead Dog Hut but don't notice anything obvious - admittedly from the road.  Mad Pom has a description of a route that sounds ok.   

I also have a picture of a trig taken at 4.17 - this might be the site marked as the Lessong Monument on the map built by the surveyor Lessong in the 1880s.  I also find a well marked and formed track heading north down the ridge, about 200m along the road from the trig, starting from a pull off area.  I follow it aways out of curiosity but have to give it away before it takes me anywhere interesting. 

The turn off to the track to Diane's Hut is not obvious but you'll find it by default as it is just before the road swings south.  Once on it the track drops down a spur and it takes about 50 minutes to descend, cross the Koau Stream for the second time today and scramble up to the Hut.  

The hut was built by a family in memory of their 21 y/o daughter who liked tramping and died in 1978.  The last visitor was yesterday and the log book goes back to April 2010.  It's basic but comfortable and, at 5.30, I'm very tempted to stop for the day.  After a rest though, common sense prevails - there's still plenty of daylight and it's not far to Taruarau Biv so after a half hour break I start the steep climb to the ridge.  It takes about an hour to the ridgeline.

View from the ridge - probably about NW

It's a short skip along the ridge and drop to the Biv arriving 7.45pm - not immediately apparent as it is tucked into the edge of the trees.  

Location of the Biv

Taruarau Biv is the standard two bedder - someone has tucked the table inside to keep it out of the weather and there's a camp chair.  It's pretty tidy and will do just fine.  I clear the guttering, get sweaty gear airing and enjoy the last of the afternoon sun. 

There has only been 8 visits in the last year but this is not surprising given the COVID hiatus.  The last visitors were a week back, and I even see an errant TA walker has been through (a good option to avoid the Wanganui River and tedious Manawatu road walking perhaps).  It's a great spot and a perfect evening to enjoy it.

 

I get away around 8am under high cloud.  It's easy travel north along the ridge - the route is simple on paper - north to drop down a spur to Shutes Hut then reverse the route from day one.  It's easy travel along the ridge although it could be interesting to follow in clag.  

As the ridge drops from pt 1183 there's more scrub and you have to keep your eyes open for markers, especially once you start crossing erosion chutes.  North, the steep face to the Kaikomati Range is a reminder about the inevitable climb up from the river that is yet to come. 

 

It's a steep descent down a spur to pop out in the clearing above the hut - not quite as marked on the map.  It's 9.50 - a bit under 2 hours from Taruarau. I take 15 minutes to fill in the log and rest. 

In daylight and on the track it's only 30 minutes back to the river and to the slightly faded sign I missed in the twilight.  It promises 30 minutes to Shutes Hut (correct) and 3 hours to Comet Hut (let's see). Even in light though, the marking is poorly maintained.

I cross the river in bare feet and stop for lunch by the wee creek on the other side starting the long grind up about 11am.  Having your nose close to the ground and looking for excuses to pause means you notice a more details of the local flora - in this case quite a lot of native broom.  It's pretty small and spindly and easily distinguished from the introduced variety.  

I'm in my own world when voices drifting down from above break in. A couple of older women are taking a day trip down to the river - we have a good old chat during the course of which I learn that they are volunteers for a local conservation group and they ask if I've noticed the broom.  There's only so long I can spin the excuse out though and reluctantly resume the climb.

 

Around 12.20 I'm done with the up and emerge on to the manky pine clad plateau.  The going is easier though, and it's not all mono culture - there's a nice wee section through beech forest. At 12.50 I give a nod to the trig which signals that the drop to the road end is about to start. 

Comet Hut takes a further 15 minutes, but it ain't over yet.  There's a long road walk ahead - cutting a long tedious interval short - it takes 70 minutes to walk to the main road with two cars passing but from the wrong direction.  The support crew arrives in due course to find a somewhat fragrant tramper snoozing on the road verge.  

Postscript

There are some real gems in this part of the range - the views, some tidy wee huts and intervals of pretty forest.  But ... it's a hassle getting there and getting access, there's a lot of regenerating to be done, some depressing erosion, and depending on your route, some road walking.  In the end it felt like a bit of a box ticking exercise but I'm pleased to have done it - I'm not sure that I will make the effort to tick off those last two huts though.  

Rameka Track - again

This will be short, as it is a delayed write up of a trip from almost two years ago, and for some reason I didn't take photos.

It's not the first time I've done this track but it's been a few years and it's relatively convenient (i.e. we're heading to Golden Bay and the support crew is amenable to executing a drop off  at the end of the long gravel Canaan Road on top of the Pikirunga Range.

What:    Rameka MTB track
Where:  Top of Takaka Hill to Takaka
When:   31 December 2020
Who:     Solo

Website
 
It's a typically hot top of the south day as we head from Blenheim to Golden Bay. The queue for the lights for the roadworks on the Takaka Hill Road is not too long and the traffic is pootling along at such a good rate that we overshoot the turnoff.  

Canaan Road is always a bit longer than I remember and I'm surprised by the number of cars and people at the end of it.  Second time here and I still haven't got to visit Harwards Hole.

A bit before 1pm I leave final instructions about panic time etc and head up the hill to the turn off into the bush at Pages Saddle.

The track through the bush section at the top is largely as remembered.  A few pushing sections but a lot of riding.  Coming to the downhill there are a few bits that are getting a bit sketchy and slippery and one tight section has me execute a not so graceful dismount onto my left shoulder.   

I'm pleased to discover that more track has been cut - avoiding a bit of 4WD road travel.  Also, that there is now the option of heading into the MTB tracks on the block of pines that the Kennetts and others are rehabilitating in the Rameka Creek catchment.  There's a map and I toss up between the track that looks like it drops down the face of the range with views over Golden Bay, and the more windy option under the trees that drops to the creek and follows the road out.  The latter looks more interesting and cooler (Great Expectations I think).

It's nice to be on designed track as gradients, corners and stream crossing are designed for wheels not feet and you know what you're getting into from the rating of the trail.  It's a pleasurable ride down and will only get better as old pines give way to natives.  

At the bottom there are tracks between the gravel road and the creek (One click and two clicks) - they are a bit rocky in places but more interesting than the road.  

The memory is a bit sketchy from here but I think I headed into Takaka to meet the rest of the crew at the Dada Manifesto then back to the B&B for a freshen up before a much more sedate few days enjoying the sites and sights of Golden Bay.  

Waikoropupu - the dancing sands pool.  
To think we used to go swimming here

The usual suspects lined up to take on the next challenge

Challenge accepted ...

Thank god they stuffed up our booking at the other B&B

Postscript

 

Wakamarina MTB

The Wakamarina Track has been unfinished business for a few years now.  The fates conspired to prevent every previous trip - usually in the form of road closures for forestry.  From track descriptions it sounds like large chunks of it are a bit beyond my meagre MTB abilities, but it is an intriguing route with a bit of history and a sense of covering some interesting country usually reserved for trampers.     

Where:  Wakamarina Track - Richmond Range
When:   29 December 2020 
What:    MTB day trip
Who:     Solo

Shortly after turning into North Bank Road there's a large DOC sign board on the left listing the status of the various road ends along North Bank Road.  I have found it to be accurate at times, and continue to check it as well as the website.  It insists that this time the way is clear so we head up Onamalutu Road which turns into Kiwi Road and winds into the hills.

We have the wee MX5 so ground clearance isn't the best, but it manages the 500m climb on a roughish gravel road to the large 'car park' at the top of Kiwi Road.  Kiwi Road continues over the ridge and is marked as dropping to Bartlett Road with access back to North Bank Road but I haven't confirmed that this is a goer.    

Top of Kiwi Road

 

Back towards Blenheim 

After the usual farffing about I get to that point in time where there is nothing to be done but start pedaling up the 4WD track.  You could drive up this bit but it doesn't take you much further so you may as well start from the big turn around area.  It's 12:20 so there should be more than enough afternoon to see this thing through.

Writing two years after the trip means the details are a bit sketchy, but the first part is a steady climb on a good track over 400m to the top of the Richmond Range at about 1030m.  I'm not very fit at the moment so elect to push on some sections rather than trying to grunt through.  

The track runs through beech forest with rocky outcrops - it's pretty and a privilege to be able to ride in country like this.   

Fosters Clearing is a good stop for lunch at 1.30.  Fosters Hut is a 100m climb along the ridge to the east and the clearing itself is a comfortable wee grass patch with a water barrel.  This is something I've discovered is a thing in these ranges - and have since stumbled on three other small water reservoirs on exposed ridges without tarns or other sources.    

West along the ridge is an unmarked route to Mt Baldy and other exciting destinations.  Noted for future tramping trips.

A South Island Robin keeps me company as I study the map for the next section.  I'm thinking of this as a trip of four halves: a mostly ridable grind up to the clearing, a bit of a miserable scramble and push section down then steeply up to pt 1066, an insane down hill that I will likely need to push parts of, then a flatter ride out to the road end. 

I think I may have protected myself by forgetting parts of the next section but recall wrestling the bike up steep, crumbling banks, around windfall and a lot of on again/ off again.  

Around 2.50 I'm at pt 1066 and ready to do battle with the downhill.  By this I mean, drop the seat, tighten the sphincters and get ready to jump off at the slightest sign of trouble.

It's a challenging ride and I push a fair bit.  Good riders would do it pretty quickly and ride far more than I could so it takes almost an hour to drop the 800 odd metres to Devils Creek Hut (3.50pm). 

The hut is a typical number nestled in a clearing - in the bush nearby is a much earlier structure that would struggle to meet current building standards.

There's a couple of good size creeks along the next section for water and it takes a little over half an hour to get to the reasonably sizable Doom Creek.  

Doom Creek is deep, green and by all accounts good for a skinny dip.  I'm on the clock though so eschew such things and decide not to do the loop track to some old mine workings.   

Doom Creek

Consequently, I don't keep the support team waiting long, arriving on the dot of 4.45.  Under an hour from Devil Creek Hut and about 4hr 25 from setting out.  

Postscript

A challenging ride and workout in beautiful country.  The ride up to Fosters clearing or into Devils Creek Hut from the other end are reasonable destinations in their own right. 

 

Access to the track is problematic.  At the time of writing there has been storm damage to Kiwi Road and it is listed as closed.  Given there has been a lot of logging in the area it is possible that the company has little reason to repair the road in a hurry so I'm not holding my breath.  I would recommend a car with good clearance and preferably 4WD - particularly if there has been any rain.

Good bike skills are needed - I would have enjoyed it far more if I was a bit more competent.  Also fitness - a bit of grunt is needed for some of the up hills and there are completely unrideable sections requiring bike wrestling - a small group would be an advantage for handling bikes in places.  A few years back I had attempted to get to the track with full touring rig on my old Giant MTB but the road was closed (as I discovered after 15 wasted km pedaling) - I suspect it would have been a bit miserable wrangling a loaded bike through some sections.  

You need to carry a bit of water (I wouldn't rely on the barrel at Fosters).  Although there were streams in the second section from Fosters and fourth section from Devils Creek Hut. 

Weather is also a significant consideration - the tops can clag in with much lower temperatures than the plains. And, if it rains, some ridable sections will quickly become rooty hell slides just itching to wipe out an unsuspecting front wheel and rider.

Finally, if you don't have a patient support crew it's quite a long ride out to SH 6 at Canvastown.