Sunday, 24 January 2016

Cape to Cape day eleven: Dargaville to Ahipara

Route
Opunake Road and Maropiu Settlement Road North from Dargaville, SH 12, then Trounson Park Road,  returning to SH 12 via Katui Road and following it through to Rawene.  Ferry to Kohukohu, Rakautapu and Paponga Roads to Broadwood then Awaroa Road to Ahipara.

Link to Map

Distance: 172 Km
Old School GPS


The commute means another late start from Dargaville at 8.15.  I planned to follow the Tour route from now but had been half expecting changes in plan so hadn't studied the route as carefully.  This meant some swift work last night to hand write directions and distances.

Trounson Kauri Park







The Tour route follows some gravel back roads that are good riding, paralleling SH 12 before joining it at Ahikiwi.  There’s a kauri shop shortly after selling everything kauri including rough slabs – worth a stop.

Trounson Road provides another respite from SH 12 meandering along on seal until Trounson Kauri park; a 30 min bush walk through a stand of kauri – also worth a visit.  The route returns to the SH 12 via gravel roads through Donnellys Crossing ending with a steepish climb up Katui Road.

Shortly after the road enters Waipoua Forest (18km long) starting with a fast, winding downhill to the Waipoua River.  It’s lunch time so I pop along to the camp ground and shop (about a km along a gravel road by the river).  The selection is limited but the food is pretty good.







Waipoua River
Back on the road the long climb is windy but not as steep as I feared.  It’s pretty good going with a couple of stops for photos of Darby and Joan (kauri lining the road) and to walk to Tane Mahuta. The kauri forest is impressive, hemming the road with magnificent trees.


Darby and Joan


Tane Mahuta - note the wee people in front
It’s a shame to leave the forest but there is the consolation of a screaming downhill to the Waimaku River followed by a few sharp wee climbs before reaching the coast at Omapere and a good break at 2.15.


Surf to the North of Hokianga Harbour



First view of Hokianga Harbour - Note the massive sand hill

Hokianga Harakeke
It’s about 21km to Rawene, mostly flat with a couple of hills so I figure to catch the ferry and see how far towards Ahipara I can get before dark.   There are some potential accommodation options on the way.

The ferry leaves every hour on the half hour from Rawene, so I have a 45 minute wait for the 5.30 ferry and time to stock up at the shop.  It seems a tidy wee town.   The ferry is half full as the time to leave approaches but a last rush sees it chocker by the time we depart.  I chat with an older Canadian triathlete on the way across who is touring around before participating in the Masters Games in Dunedin, an impressively fit woman

Bike on boat number five

That's pretty much full

Out of the way

Rawene disappears astern
I let the traffic clear before exiting the ferry and heading towards Kohukohu.  The odd vehicle races past intent on catching the ferry.  The Tour route has, as usual found an interesting and hilly gravel road instead of the obvious tarseal route.  Rakautapu road dives steeply up from Kohukohu in the early evening light.

It’s an interesting road in pretty good nick through to Broadwood to join the seal again.  The accommodation option here seems to have disappeared and its only 20km so I potter on to Herekino with a brief stop to alert a farmer to wandering stock (black cattle at night on the road could be a bit nasty!). He seems grateful and heads off to sort it out.  Then its only 15 km to Ahipara, so onwards again with a stop to set up lights.  The roads are quiet and it is again good riding.

There’s one significant hill to negotiate beside Herekino Forest then a run down to Ahipara, passing a couple of cyclists heading up the road in the dusk – they must be intending to camp out.

It’s well dark as I head through Ahipara to find the holiday park at 9.30pm.  The town has a lot of young people wandering about and there’s a Police car keeping an eye on things, it feels a little unusual.  The park is at the end of a drive behind a large electronic gate.  We had a booking for the following night but the cabin is free tonight and they are happy to change the booking.   I’m quietly sorting myself out when a cyclist sidles up and asks the usual questions about where I’d come from etc.  He’d travelled down 90 Mile Beach into a head wind yesterday and had to call it quits part way along.  He’s travelling with a lass from Wellington and they’re happy to share the remains of their dinner as we compare notes about the route ahead/behind.

Finally I crawl into the cabin, lube the bike, shower and grab 5 hours sleep so as to catch the low tide in the morning.


Link to day twelve: Ahipara to Cape Reinga


Cape to Cape day twelve: Ahipara to Cape Reinga

Route
90 Mile Beach, Kauaeparaoa (or Te Paki) stream, connector road to SH1 to Cape Reinga, walk way to lighthouse (ridable).

Link to Map

Distance: 105 km

It’s pre-dawn (6am) as I head through the quite township and down Kaka Road to the beach.  It’s low tide and I’m aiming to get the 80 kms out of the way before the tide squeezes me up to the unridable soft sand.  Ideally I guess you would set off a couple of hours before low tide, but as it turns out I have heaps of time. After riding on the wet sand for a bit and covering self and bike in a slurry I find the sweet spot in the drier sand.   The 32cm tyres cope fine and the wind is kind, so I click along trying to ignore the heinous things that sand and salt might be doing to the moving parts on the bike.

There're bike shoes under there somewhere
The total traffic over the next four hours is five 4WDs, a parked station wagon with a couple of older chaps on deck chairs and two walkers with fifty kms of beach ahead of them.  The odd sea bird shadows the bike briefly but there is little else to remark on.

Sun rise provides the welcome distraction of trying to take photos without stopping ...

Yup - it's early

Looking forward ...
A more successful shot looking back ...


Bored and sweaty rider ...

Ooh look - something different ...

Half way - looking back

Half way - looking forward













The beach exit is reasonably easy to find but a quick check of the GPS on the phone (preloaded map) confirms it. There’s as much walking as riding up the stream and I come across a bogged van, but a 4WD is on the way and all I can do is commiserate.

At the road end I give the bike a good rinse down in the stream.  The local iwi have a truck selling cold drinks and renting sand boards for mucking about in the impressive dunes, the carpark is pumping.  A short hop up a gravel road then left onto SH1 for the final 16 hilly km to the lighthouse. Needless to say it’s hot and interminable.

The support crew are somewhere en route so I coast the bike down to the lighthouse amongst the crowds arriving at midday. I run off some photos for the record then sit and watch the wave patterns the two oceans create where they meet.


Where Tasman and Pacific meet.
Note the Pohutakawa on the headland









Last Light

Not the same bike but at least the luggage did the full trip
Three Kings Islands are out there somewhere

Yup - I made it too
(and no, that is not a lobotomy scar)


For the record ...


There are good story boards on the path to the lighthouse so by the time I get back to the carpark Sally has arrived and seen what she wants to see so we load up and head south.  It's years since we've been up this way so it's a chance to potter around the tourist route, visit the rainbow warrior memorial, the stone store, weekend market and waterfall in Kerikeri, take a guided tour of Te Tiriti grounds, catch a(nother) ferry to Okiato and follow Russell Road via the rather superb Helena Bay cafe and art gallery back to SH 1 and South.


Link to Technical Notes


Cape to Cape - A few technical notes

Weather
It was a bit of a mixed bag which was a good gear test.  The Revelate seat bag leaks a bit now so anything important has to be in plastic, the framebag is still water proof which also means once water gets in (e.g. around the drinking tube) it doesn't get out. The critical thing is the integrity of the dry bag for the sleeping bag - a heavy plastic bag seems to withstand the rubbing and keeps the mud off; a bit of water gets through but not through the dry bag. The dry bag failed after the last trip so it is a system that requires monitoring.

The water proof map pouch delaminated where it is rolled over at the top - this wasn't a problem provided you didn't try to move the damp paper inside.

Bike
The old 26' Giant XTC2 worked fine as usual (apart from the forks).  It had full on Maxxis knobblies - probably less efficient on the seal but would have been useful on Bridge to Nowhere section if it had been wet.  The Ridley Cyclo-cross bike worked out well - I felt I had to be more careful rough stuff but there were few occasions when I decided not to tackle something.  To be fair it might have had a little more trouble on the Wairarapa Coast and other rocky trails but overall I was pretty happy with it on seal, gravel, sand and on the single track I covered.  The gearing didn't go as low as I would like (36 teeth front, 28 rear), I may try a smaller front cog or develop some muscles.  The jury is still out on the question of robustness and how much of this type of treatment the bike will take.

Navigation
As with previous trips I developed detailed trail notes based on the Tour Aotearoa route and on-line maps and satellite images (Google Maps and Map-My-Ride).  I carried a Personal Locator Beacon for emergencies but didn’t carry a GPS (apart from occasional reference to Google Maps on the smart phone). I also had a few specific maps of some of the cycle trails but as expected these were generally pretty well marked. There were a couple of occasions when the road signs didn't match the online maps.

Overall I was a bit more relaxed about navigation than I was for the South Island whilst recognising the risk of departure from or error in the notes where there is no cell phone cover. The only times I really needed to refer to the phone GPS was getting through Auckland and the exit from 90 mile beach (not really required but useful to confirm I was in the right place).

Luggage

  • Revelate seat bag - starting to show signs of wear but a great piece of kit.  
  • Custom frame bag by Brent MacDonald Canvas Products Wellington (need a new one for a good fit on the Ridley).
  • Topeak tool pouch.
  • MacPac drybag for sleeping bag wrapped in plastic for added protection.  
  • Light backpack (eventually dispensed with).
  • Map pouch

The luggage (minus map pouch)
The old bike had aero bars which were useful to sling the sleeping roll off.  It fitted fine between the Ridley's drops but tended to bounce around a bit on the rough stuff.  The drybags can rub a hole pretty quick hence the additional plastic bag.

Water
3L pouch in the framebag with the tube through a hairband on the bars, two 750ml bottles in cages hose clipped to the down tube (the lightweight Specialized cage broke again).  Previously I have attached them to the forks but the new arrangement seemed to work well - I only noticed them occasionally when getting up on the pedals. There wasn't enough clearance to mount the sub frame cage on the Ridley and I wasn't game to try to attach anything to the Carbon forks.  The bottles developed a strong plastic taste so I binned them in favour of water bottles from shops.

Food
Mostly relied on shops and cafe's (Bunderberg ginger beer and Liptons peach ice tea) and a few meals with family. For a change I carried a cooking kit: a penny stove (meths), Back Country dehy and porridge sachets - a bit of luxury but appreciated on the few occasions where there were long stretches without shops. The weight with cleaning cloth but not meths is 220g but this could be reduced (a smaller butane lighter, and replacing the bent wire pot stand). I also discovered the Bumper Slice from Cookie Time - less dense than the Bumper Bar but equally delicious.

Cooking kit
The penny stove - complete with US penny


Assembled for action

Clothes
Slightly less than previous, sacrificing comfort rather than safety - with the exception of wearing two pairs of bike shorts. This made a big difference (should have started with two and avoided some uncomfortable blisters).

Sleeping
  • MacPac Bush Cocoon (a cross between a very small tent and a bivvy bag)
  • MacPac Express down bag and silk liner
  • Exped Air mattress 
The Bush Cocoon is a bit of an experiment - light weight and packs small but more comfortable than a traditional bivvy bag.  Here's an initial review which I thought was pretty accurate: Link.

Other stuff
Pretty much the same as previous trips ... basic first aid, survival blanket, pain killers and anti inflamatories, sunscreen, toiletries etc.


Link to Cape to Cape intro

Thursday, 15 January 2015

Length of the South - Technical Stuff

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I wrote notes on gear at the end of the blog for the Southern Brevet, I’ll try to cross reference rather than repeat.

The bike

Same. Had it checked over by a mechanic before leaving but a few niggles developed …

Front and rear tyres delaminated, these were the same set as on the Southern Brevet - I've used them on all surfaces but they're not so great on soft ground which was definitely not a problem this time, they don’t seem to get punctures whatever you chuck at them). There were some gashes in the tread before I started but they seemed to be holding up so I started on them but threw a couple of spare knobblies in the car. Day 5 was too much for them and the gashes started to hold hands with large sections of Kevlar showing through. I was amazed at how the canvas stood up to the punishment but it made steering a little exciting on the down hills.

Shocks – during the Southern Brevet these had collapsed but had held out with judicious use of a shock pump. I had a mechanic check them out and he thought they were fine. They lasted until day 5 then did the same thing. Came right over night but intermittently went down over the rest of the trip, usually just lifting the bars they would reflate until the last day when that wouldn't last long at all.

Gears – in the weeks before leaving I serially replaced most drive components, cables and covers apart from front rings and rear derailleur. By the end of the trip there was a fair amount of nursing required, with the back derailleur probably a bit twisted from rocks on the Nydia and sounds of wear in the rear cable housings.

Brakes – replaced pads before start. Front held out fine, rear somewhat worn at end and rubbing a bit.

Water cages – same issues; still after bigger bottles and better mounts.

If you want to avoid carrying weight on your back you have to be creative to get enough water on board without compromising centre of gravity, rider movement and luggage capacity. I haven’t got it right yet but have: 2 x 750 ml on the forks, 1 x 750 ml under the frame and this time a 3L pouch in the frame bag. Two elastic hair ties looped over the nipple seem to have stopped the bottles popping out.

Fork mountings keep the weight low and they don’t seem to get smashed into obstacles. But the weight of the water flexes the cage and stresses the mounts. The lightweight Specialized cage on the front fork that survived the Brevet broke at the welds so I rotated them from the rear of the fork to the front so the weight comes onto the fork rather than the front of the cage – this makes the bottle harder to reach whilst riding but I use these bottles to recharge the frame bag so this isn't a problem. I found a second hand alloy cage in Lawrence which was more solid but lost it when my mounting failed on a fairly high energy descent from Omarama saddle the next day. The new Specialized cage on the other fork survived but I expect it to break so will replace it before I lose another bottle.

Luggage

Same but dropped the bar bag and the back pack.

Clothing

Pretty much the same, but dropped the spare tights and merino gruts and took lighter gloves and spare socks and replaced merino riding top with a sun suitable shirt. Added a cheap Kathmandu Bandanna; a bit warm at times but no sun burnt head and so lovely when you can dunk it in a stream.

I wanted to get the shirt right; the criteria I had in mind: lightweight, long sleeve, high UPF rating (no burning when the shirt was wet), collar that can turn up, pockets with closures, light colour, easy wash and dry.

The one that looked ideal was a pricey fishing shirt from the US firm Sims but fortunately Kathmandu had something that did the trick much cheaper, I think it was called the Kangsar and I’m pretty happy with it. The main disadvantage is that it isn't a shirt for layering, the fabric is icy when wet, so if the weather turns you’d want to take it off and layer up with thermals.

Didn't use the synthetic jacket except as a pillow but will continue to carry it.

Sleeping

Same. Haven’t got a lighter bag yet and probably won’t now. Still on the lookout for an ultra-lite tent or fly but bivvy bag was fine for summer – didn't stick the Exped air inside it this time (doh!).

First aid, emergency and repair

Same plus some big plasters and a PLB instead of a spot tracker – looked into getting one but decided it wasn't a good investment – may reconsider at some point. As it wasn't a Brevet event I chucked various tools in the car and a spare set of tyres.

Other kit

Dropped the micro towel and glasses in case, added chap stick.

Food and water

Carried a little less food – generally enough for a day, or two at a pinch. Dropped the one square meals and bumper bars, had a selection of sweet, sticky muesli bars. But still need to refine the selection and improve nutrition and hydration management during the day.

I’m finding I need real food for longer trips rather than trying to survive on bars and gels. A tin of sardines, some crackers, cheese, a somewhat squashed filled roll or whatever … stopping and eating something real just seems to work better and puts you in a better head space.

I tried ‘Get up and go’ a few times – heavier than I want to carry on the bike but not a bad option when available. Flavoured porridge sachets seem to work OK cold and are good on an unsettled stomach if there’s a way of heating them. I carried packets of pre-cooked rice but didn't use any in the end.

See comments above re bottle cages and water. I got sick of the electrolyte I was carrying but picked up some other types (not the smartest to change part way through). I’m a bit fussy about drinking strongly flavoured water and find that trying to mask it with a drink sachet often doesn't make it any better.

Overall I've decided to sacrifice a bit of weight in order to have better food choices – going for the lightest options in order to save weight aint working for me.

The body

You can expect a bit of battery from these trips, but there was nothing serious or debilitating. The worst was nausea developing after the end of the first day and getting worse for a few days after. This was likely to have been due to a combination of dehydration and fatigue, caused by lack of discipline with food and water intake, less than ideal fitness and the unaccustomed heat. I.e. just being a bit too soft.

A vicious circle developed: nausea makes you fussy; you eat and drink less (particularly if the only thing available is tepid water with a strong taste); you feel worse ... Much of the surface water was from heavily farmed catchments and many streams had dried up so it was often longer between sources than expected.

Lesson: calculate how much water you need allowing for the heat and for lack of top-up sources. This generally means having more carriage capacity than you think you need.

My right knee was a bit bruised from a spill a couple of weeks before the start. This was no problem until day three on the Alps to Ocean – it was OK under sustained pressure but painful when starting to pedal after a pause – the sort of thing you do a lot of on rough down-hills. I had Voltarin but didn't take it as it improved over the next few days.  After that it didn't give any significant trouble despite landing on it again during an end-over on the Wharfdale track then reopening the nick with a pedal on the Nydia. It didn't get infected so all good.

Lesson: don’t fall off.

Lack of training and failure to organise a new seat meant the back-side callouses from sitting at a desk weren't up to the rigours of sustained rough roads. The result was a fair amount of discomfort in the nether regions and a long blister along the fold where leg meets bum. Large size Elastoplast and lashings of chamois cream seemed to sort it out.

Lesson: read your notes from last time and get around to buying a new seat in time to break it in! Take and use plenty of lubricant and react to warning signs early. Carry a few large plasters.

There was no lasting numbness in the fingers unlike on the Brevet (this came right at some point during the year). Some mild toe numbness is persisting a few weeks afterwards but should clear up soon.

A forearm strain from hefting the bike up banks on the Nydia (and being soft) is still niggling. No blisters on feet or other ailments.

Training

Way less than last time. After no riding since the Brevet in January I did a bit of commuting with a few hills thrown in and a couple of long rides before a leisurely round Taupo. After that a longish Wairarapa ride and a ride to Palmy on the road bike.

I was way better prepared for the Brevet and this time suffered longer because of it.

Navigation

Similar to last time, but the trip notes worked even better as I prepared them myself (i.e. it meant I learnt the route better).  After working out the bones of the trip I used Map-my-Ride, topo maps, Kennett books and the internet to flesh out the route and options.

An early decision was to start at Slope Point as the southernmost point, but not to go to Farewell Spit as:

  1. the route options to Farewell spit looked tricky, 
  2. D’Urville Island was a logical flow on from the Rainbow, Wakamarina and Nydia tracks which I really wanted to do, and 
  3. D’Urville Island just seemed more interesting. 

It was a real toss up whether to do the West Coast or not. In the end I wanted to do the Rail Trail, Wharfdale and Rainbow and these just seemed to more logically line up with a centre of the Island route. There are plenty of options to take a really good West Coast line though and this is likely to be the route of the length of NZ Brevet in 2016.

I mapped the ride in fairly arbitrary sections on Map-my-Ride which gave distances which I used to create trip notes covering pretty much every major intersection on the trip. I also printed topo maps for particularly tricky areas. I double checked the notes but a few errors still crept in, although nothing that caused any problems (trouble is I forgot to note where they were!).

During a few sections the distances drifted out of accuracy (e.g. because a track in bush couldn't be measured accurately in Map-my-ride) but this never caused a problem.

I didn't carry a GPS and the altimeter on my watch wasn't working but neither was needed.

I haven’t explored smart phone GPS apps any further due to; lack of confidence, battery life, and cellular coverage issues.

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Wednesday, 14 January 2015

Length of the South - Day Nine

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Route

Harvey Bay to Cape Stephens on D’urville Island via French Pass

Day 9 Map: Harvey Bay to French Pass
Day 9 Map: D'Urville Island

Distance: 80 (115)    Cumulative: 1,340 (1,375)

It’s a cool grey day as I polish off some cold porridge, quietly pack up and head west towards Archer’s Track about 7km away. All going well this will be the last day of the trip.

There’s a wee climb on the way to Penzance Bay then Archer’s Track: about 8km with a bit of up and down, a few rooty bits and dismounts required, but nothing dramatic. It passes through some nice bush, a secluded wee bay and some not-so-nice recovering forestry land, and ends with a long section of 4WD track, before popping out in someone’s driveway.

The track closes the loop between two arterial roads into the Sounds so is a kind of cool link for bikers, as it is unquestionably a massive shortcut. Penzance Bay is accessed via Opouri Road and Elaine Bay via Okiwi and the French Pass Road.

You've got to be envious of this!
One of the prettier sections of Archer’s track.


Bach in the bush. Somewhere around Deep Bay on Archer's track.

Near the end of Archer’s track. Elaine Bay at left, French Pass Road along ridge on skyline, Mt Shewell (775m) at back, Tawhitinui Island, Archer’s track runs above the shore to the right.

At 0915 hrs people in Elaine Bay are getting on with their days. I don’t see any shops so head on, and start the climb up to the French Pass Road, in what is again a hot sunny day. The road follows the backbone of the peninsula to Elmslie Bay where I intend to catch a boat across to D’Urville Island.

It’s sometimes a little unclear what “French Pass” is referring to so here’s my take: the wee settlement at Elmslie Bay is labelled ‘French Pass (Anaru)’ on the NZtopo map and the narrow passage between the island and mainland is labelled ‘Te Aumiti (French Pass).’ I never heard anyone use the Maori names.

The boat doesn't go through the narrowest part of the pass which is apparently fearsome in some tides as it has the fastest tidal flow in the country, but don’t take my word for it, Aunty Wiki has some pretty good info. Here’s another website that’s got some useful and interesting stuff including an explanation of the name Te Aumiti, it doesn't refer to the name ‘Anaru’.

Just after the Elaine Bay intersection I run into a couple of (clearly very fit) older bikers heading back to Okiwi Bay, a good wee step away and stop for a chat. They've grunted up from one of the many bays along the road and have a fair amount of up and down to look forward to. My direction follows the ridge with various ups and downs. It’s mostly gravel but sealed in the stretch down to Elmslie Bay.

About 12.5km after the intersection is the turn-off to Port Ligar on the right which takes you further north than French Pass along another peninsula – it could be well worth exploring albeit fairly hilly.

Mt Shewell and the peninsula out to Port Ligar. Hallam cove in front, Admiralty Bay to left.

Thereafter, the bare farmland of the Peninsula allows unimpeded views over the Sounds and out to D’Urville Island. There’s a bit of returning traffic with boats, some of which slow to minimise the dust.

First view of D’Urville Island. 
From French Pass Road, Te Aumiti visible on the right.


Closer to French Pass looking up the length of D’Urville Island.

After the final ripping downhill into Elmslie Bay it’s a bit before 1200 hrs. There’s a shop with fuel, a DoC campground , a backpackers (I think it was for sale) and rental homes in the area and on D’Urville Island. The shop provides a much needed ginger beer and phone card to contact Craig Aston the boat operator and the campground a top-up of water bottles (not great tasting water).

I track down Craig who turns out to be solid and matter of fact; he lives on the island but is in town so timing is perfect. Craig and Christine operate a few boats which can be used for access to the Island (including taking vehicles) and also have a holiday house for rent (website). The trip across is so short it’s a matter of minutes for him to scoot over and do a pick up. He quoted $75 each way for me and bike.

There are other options to get across including the Wilderness lodge that provides accommodation on the Island a water taxi service and amongst other things.


Boats on Admiralty Bay. 
From Anaru looking eastish, Port Ligar is behind the ridge.

The boat is a small flat bottomed barge with a bunch of fuel containers that we load up along with me and bike. The trip to Kapowai Bay doesn’t take long at all. We do a quick check to make sure my phone works at the end of the wharf (not all networks are created equal) and he potters off south to the bay where he lives. I reapply sunscreen and check that the bike looks like it will hold together for the final 35km and, with a bit of luck back again.

Leaving Anaru (or should that be Anaru leaving?). 
Ok, I look like a prat but it was a good shot of Craig. 
Campervan by my left ear marks the Doc campground, 
shop is behind my head, jetty by Craig’s shoulder.

It’s 1300 hrs and the gravel road starts climbing at a steady rate immediately. And keeps going up. The road is in good nick and there’s plenty of shadow from the bush so it’s not too bad in the heat. Kupe Road joins from the left after a little over 4km where the road flattens for a bit then the final climb to top-out after 8-9km at 570m (below Attempt Hill). Then it’s up and down until the Community Hall at about 12.5km on the right; it’s a large log building which can be booked for $50/night for one (better rates for more – Sue Savage takes bookings and offered to arrange key and payment via Craig; her number is on the Aston’s website ).

Peering inside, it has kitchen, shower, sleeping areas and a large communal space. More to the point, it has a rain water supply which tastes way better than the French Pass water (careful how you say that). I leave a small bag of non-essentials for pick up on the way back and push on.

Half a km later is the Port Hardy turn off on the left that provides access to a large part of the Island, definitely scope for a return visit. More down and up and the bush becomes low scrub as the road sidles around Mt Ears and, after a long downhill; bare farmland.

From Mt Ears looking north 
Rangitoto Islands on right, Stephens Island appearing from behind hill in the middle, 
Cape Stephens and the Sisters in the background, 
Road to Waiau Bay on hills to left with East Arm of Port Hardy just in front.


After a bit over 23km Waiau Bay Road heads off to the left and I continue on Patuki Rd, which starts to more and more resemble a farm access road. Eventually (28km) it dives east and down to the farm house. I had called earlier to arrange access so continue through a gate and along the ridge.
The trip started in a farm paddock at Slope Point and the final few km is up and down through more paddocks (with a fair amount of pushing in the baking heat). It becomes a bit of an endurance test with each corner revealing another lump to get over. Eventually a lone cabbage tree comes into sight, and I’m casting around for the track when it dawns that this is it.

First view of the end. 
Looking West at the Sisters on the right and down into Port Hardy on the left. 
The point in the distance is Nile Head at the end of Tower Ridge. 
Mt Woore (693m) on the horizon with Victory Island (Moutitit) in front of it.

The odo stands at 1,340km, it’s 1625 hrs and, like much of the trip, it's a scorcher.

There a couple of points you could go to on the Cape and call it the end but I choose the bit above the Bishop’s Cauldron with the Sisters Islands as a back drop: Te Wakaapani (closest and largest), Te Mokaiapani and Nga Tamahineapani. Stephen’s Island (made famous in weather reporting, as in; “Gale force Southerly winds and heavy rain from Stephen’s Island to Cape Campbell.”) lies to the northeast.   100km due east is the Kapiti Coast just south of Levin, 107km west is the coast south of Collingwood and Blenheim is 91km to the south.

I prop the bike and take a few snaps then scramble down to the edge of the cliff to sit and eat a celebratory tin of sardines.

She made it. Giant XTC2 legend with some landscape behind.

And he made it.
Hot, weary, dirty, scruffy and probably slightly smelly rider with some landscape behind.

Lunch and legs on ledge. 
Legs are covered in a paste of sunscreen and dust.


Although about 22 km shy of the northernmost point on the South Island (Cape Farewell at the base of Farewell Spit) and not actually part of the Island; this is where I was aiming. There’s a feeling of achievement and completion but, to be honest, the prospect of making the return trip in time to get off the Island that evening weighs on the mind.  But there's time for a thought for Ron Gilbert who traveled many of the routes I've been over on his motorbike years ago when they would have been quite a different proposition. I'd like to think he would have appreciated this account.

However, retracing the route is not so bad as the day cools, the only items of note are the traffic (1 car) and a fabulously long and fast downhill back to Kapowai Bay. I call Craig from the Wharf at 2010 hrs and to my relief he responds immediately.

Kapowai wharf - job done
Turner Peak (683m) in the background

It’s been a discourteously brief visit to the Island at seven and a half hours, but I’m pretty happy to chuck the bike into Craig's ‘other boat’ (smaller and faster), and rip across the still waters to Anaru.

Through the passage to the southwest the hazy air in Tasman Bay is bright with golden evening light. To the east and behind, the Sounds and D’Urville Island are dimming into evening. Minutes later I’m wrestling the bike up the slippery wharf steps, paying the ferryman and finding Sally who has entirely missed the triumphant return.


Well, I ‘spose that’s that then.
Stripping down the bike for the last time.

As we leave Anaru we pause briefly to catch the last sight of the setting sun.  It's sort of fitting seeing as the trip started with sunrise at Slope Point.


Looking south into Tasman Bay from French Pass

It’s a long drive back to Blenheim in the dark; a pie, a shower and fall into bed around midnight.

Tomorrow? Sleep, eat and do nothing ... except maybe wash the bike.






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Tuesday, 13 January 2015

Length of the South - Day Eight

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Route

Blenheim to Harvey Bay via Havelock and Nydia Track

Day 8 Map

Distance: 121    Cumulative: 1,260

A leisurely 0800 start, and rather than chug back to an arbitrary point on the Wairau Valley Road, I head straight from Blenheim for the Wakamarina track. This is likely to be the toughest day and I’m a bit spooked by the prospect of the grunt over the range with full kit. It’s overcast but the ubiquitous Blenheim wind hasn’t started yet. The range is shrouded in cloud, so hopefully cool up top and good for climbing.

People are getting about their business and traffic is relatively busy but the road shoulders are ok. Renwick is a little early for a food stop, even though the pies from the bakery have been pretty good in the past; an iced coffee is however always in order.

After crossing the Wairau death bridge (no concessions made for cyclists) the trip up Onamalutu Road is pleasant and I make a mental note to visit the Reserve one day, however I’m a bit uneasy about the level of forestry activity – chainsaws echo through the valley, trucks are coming and going and there’s lots of signs about access, radio call signs and such.

It is not until the end of the road that I see ‘Closed’ on a DoC Wakamarina Track sign – I continue a short way to check and sure enough Kiwi Road has fierce signs making it very clear that cyclists aren't welcome. There’s a fair amount of teeth grinding, and imprecations about the iniquities of DoC officers that don’t bother putting signs at the start of the road, as steps are retraced. To be fair, I discover that there was a sign on the side of North Bank Road (left going up valley) not long after the main road intersection that gives the status of various routes – I hadn't seen it and there was no indication on the Wakamarina sign at the North Bank / Onamalutu Rd intersection.

Oh well, plan B is to ignore the wasted 30km and head straight up SH 6 for a leisurely lunch with Sally at the Slip Inn in Havelock, and a few essential supplies from the shop. It also provides an opportunity to make some phone calls and arrange transport to and access on D’Urville Island.

A relatively new bridge across the Pelorus River has dramatically shortened the commute from Havelock to the Nydia track (or MTB trust website) to about 20km. The gravel road winds along the coast through bush with virtually no traffic. It’s a hot day again. Just before the turn off to the track about 1500 hrs (pretty easy to identify by the DoC signs) two trampers are heading back along the road. I suspect they’ll have a long walk without a lift. After that, I see no-one through the entire track.

Reports are that the Nydia Track is better from north to south and one of the best advanced rides around. I’m sweating hard within five minutes of leaving the southern road end, as the track commences the first 200m climb. This would be mostly rideable but not for me today. The track is good, and would be a ball in the opposite direction.

The track drops again and traverses some flat pine forest (all rideable) before diving upwards for the Kaiuma Saddle. I’m off and pushing again. Even without gear I would find much of this section tricky riding in either direction with a lot of rocky creek cuttings and outcrops to scramble around, in and out of. It becomes a bit of a bike wrangling mission with cussing attendant on the odd pedal/knee connection. It would be shades worst in the wet as the rocks are treacherously slippery to cleated shoes.

It’s about 1640 hrs when I wheel the bike into the saddle and take a break before an entertaining downhill into Nydia Bay. There’s a short stretch across farmland with a couple of stream crossings, before hitting the coastline with the choice of a DoC lodge to the right or private lodge, DoC campsite and continuation of the track to the left. It’s 1715 hrs so plenty of time to grunt over the next saddle, and onwards it is.

Nydia Bay. Nydia saddle on horizon. Track follows edge of bay on left.

Nydia Bay. Nydia saddle on horizon.

The track winds for about 5km along the bay through bush and past various cribs (to use the southern vernacular). All rideable and very pleasant. Then there is a grunt up the next saddle, but by 1920 hrs the long push is over and the Nydia Saddle provides views back across the bay to the Kaiuma Saddle in the distance. There are more kereru in the surrounding bush than I have ever seen in one place before.

There’s a fair amount of bike wrangling required
climbing Nydia Saddle.
Looking back across Nydia Bay to Kaiuma Saddle
(had to darken photo in order to pick up background details)

Another great fun downhill (again mostly rideable), then a long sidle around the coast, where I get a bit sick of beech tree roots across the track. It’s a bit after 2000 hrs when I hear voices and come to the road end and meet a family coming into Duncan Bay from a day’s fishing - a little over 5 hours on the track with some lovely riding. The bush throughout is gorgeous and with a little more time there would be plenty of scope to admire views across isolated bays, swim, and kick back at a campsite or lodge.

Less than 4km later I’m picking out a camping spot at the Harvey Bay DoC campsite . Nice enough with a loo, tap, stream and good choice of sites. There’s a mixed bag of tents and camper buses, but plenty of space for a biker looking for a tree to sleep under. The caretaker is in residence and takes my $6, I wash at the stream and roll out my bivvy bag. The occupants of a nearby tent keep yacking into the night but Dimp keeps the mozzies at bay, the evening is mild, and I’m content. Wekas and Moreporks call in the dark.

Home for the night. Everything got hung on a tree out of reach of kleptomaniac Wekas.

Options

There’s plenty of options depending on where you want to end up; the Wakamarina is unfinished business for me, the road to Havelock was just plan B; from Blenheim you could go around Port Underwood or through to Linkwater via the Waikakaho Walkway (check the Kennett’s book though – I’m not sure about doing it with gear on board). Queen Charlotte Track would be a good option for getting out into the Sounds although not as far north as French Pass.


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