Mt Riley and Sunday - Richmond Range

After a four day trip into the Richmond Ranges with a bit of a plan change I've still got a bit of holiday left and decide to start at the north end of the range and see how far south I can work in a few days.

The Richmond Range starts - or peters out in the eastern most part of the park.  Mt Riley is the first (last) named point with a marked track.  I know there are road closures which effect the road end but I can cope with a bit of road walking.

What:     Tramp
Where:    Richmond Range - Mt Riley
When:     15 September 2022
Who:       Solo

Briggs Road, off Onamalutu Road is taped off by the marked ford just past the intersection - the road is closed due to damage after the recent storms.  Col drops me off at 11.20 and I start the long road walk.

I cut up through pines to skip a loop in the road and emerge just short of the first bit of damage.  It's going to take a bit of fixing but isn't too bad.

Less than a K later the stream has wiped the road out.

The forestry road meanders up then down around the hill side.  There are slips and jumbles of pine across the road in a number of places.  

 

The road runs further than my map shows and it takes about an hour to get to the parking area.  The track narrows and after 6 minutes I reach the junction - Right to Riley, Left to Sunday.  

I head left - the track is rougher now and follows a wee stream before crossing (last chance for a drink) and climbing steeply.  It takes about an hour to climb 500m to reach the ridge.  After that, more climbing. 

An hour 35 from the carpark a flat and open wee stretch has a rain barrel.  The top is open - the water looks clear but you would have to assume that goats and deer are drinking out of it.  If that bothers you.  It's on the flat bit around 820m.

The upper slopes are a bit loose but it's pretty good travel all the way up.  There's the odd view spot although I've run into cloud by the time I reach the ridge.  Around 3pm I climb onto a rocky knob - this must be Mt Sunday.  It's cool and the clag is blowing in from the North West.  Rather than stop for another layer I zip up and keep moving.   This is when I realise that there are a series of wee rocky knobs along the ridge - none of which are Mt Sunday.  

The clag is making the rock a bit slippery and there's a few wee scrambles but it's not a difficult route.   

I'm keeping an eye on my left for indications of the route along the range towards Fosters clearing and the range south of here.  I don't see anything obvious and keep pottering along.

Are we there yet?

The track finally reaches a larger open area then drops around a knob and starts sidling downwards.  Shortly after I reach the wee clearing with Mt Sunday Biv.  3.40pm - 4 hours from the car and three hours up the hill. 

I drop the pack, grab some warm gear and head along the ridge to visit Mt Riley.  The track drops, pops over a wee rise, climbs again through mossy forest then into open country.  Ahead in the clag masts emerge from the clag - a bit under 40 minutes from the Biv.  The wind is getting up so I shelter in the lee of the shed and see if I can get a signal.  No view of course - just wind, clag and low scrub and tussock.  

The phone lights up as soon as it gains a signal.  "Call as soon as you get this message."  I have an inkling what it might be about and the bad news is soon confirmed - a death in the whanau, months earlier than expected.  It's getting cold so I can't talk long but set up arrangements for an early exit from the hills.

It's a bit of a thoughtful return along the ridge to the Biv.

The Biv is basic but it has what is needed - a water barrel, mattresses and a loo outside.  It also has headspace - unlike some other two person bivs.  A candle warms the light if not the space and I get dinner underway.   I've organised a pick-up for 10am at the road block and do the sums - I'd better get up earlyish. 

In the early morning there is a bit of dawn colour above the lights of a town visible through the small window.  It might be a better day than yesterday.

A bit over an hour later it's light; I'm fed, packed, and the view has disappeared.

I head off at 6.50 into clag but not too cold.  Again I keep an eye out for possible turn offs to Fosters but despite moments of clarity, once again the clag is obscuring views of the ridge. 

I think I spot the right knob for Fosters - under 20 minutes from the biv and a bit of a foot trail leading away.

Turn off to Fosters?

After a slow start along the ridge I keep things ticking over on the way down, about 40 minutes from the hut to where the track drops off the ridge, a bit over half an hour further to the rain barrel, and 2 hour 5 after leaving the biv I'm at the car park.  

In theory it should just be an hour trudge out along the road - except I suddenly come to a wide area and the road does a switch back and suddenly appears very untraveled.  I've managed to follow a side road up the hill without noticing.  Rather than backtrack I bash down into a creek and through pretty rough slash and mud to get to the road 100m below.  Back on track I concentrate a bit more and make no more dumb turns.  Just after 10 I find Col waiting by the road closure and that's that.  About 3 hour 15 from the hut.

  

  

Putaputa Shelter

Janine has her sights on another hidden hut and is keen to rope in a few punters to share the risks and rewards.  

Putaputa  Shelter has caught her eye - it's on a stream by the same name close to Kaitoke but not exactly easy to access.  It has its meandering headwaters in the confusing flat topped ridges between Kaitoke and the Akatarawa Road.  There's old forestry tracks that run nowhere in particular, and (from experience) it's easy to get mislaid.  The stream gathers itself and cuts deeply SE to join the Hutt River in the gorges between the headworks (where a large chunk of Wellington's drinking water is collected) and the treatment plant at Te Marua.  

The Maori dictionary has a few definitions for putaputa that don't give an obvious reason for the name - variations on a group of people emerging; to be riddled with holes; and openings (or pores).  

Somewhere along the stream is the wee A frame Putaputa shelter. There appears to be three main options to get to it:

• via the Ridge Track and down the spur which emerges opposite the stream, cross the Hutt River and a roughish trip up Putaputa Stream; 
• an old sidle track on the true right from the Flume Bridge at the Kaitoke waterworks;
• climb the ridge NW from Pakuratahi Forks to pt 641 and drop to the shelter.  

We don't want to risk getting to the river and not being able to cross so scotch that one; the sidle track seems a little hit and miss and I'm not confident that we will be on our timing with a largish group if we have trouble route finding; - so that leaves the ridge route. This also has the advantage that I've been through before and know that barring a bit of rough stuff at the bottom it's pretty good travel.

What:    Hut bagging
Where:  Putaputa Shelter near Kaitoke 
Who:     Angela, Callan, Laura, Janine, Mike 
When:   3 April 2022

We gather in the car park by the Forks on a fine Sunday morning at 9.30am (a little delayed due to someone forgetting their boots - not me!). 

Crossing the (to me) brand new swing bridge, we follow the tourist loop to the Flume Bridge.  I'm pretty sure the route up to the ridge starts further back but I want to have a look at the bridge and see if there is a route up the spur.  It turns out that the bridge is closed and, with the work on the surrounding slopes, I decide not to drag the group up that way.  It's entertaining to see the acrobatics that the work crew are managing on a cliff face with a small digger. 

Back up the track a short way I pick a likely spot and we thrash up through fairly mucky stuff to eventually emerge in open beech above the bridge.  In retrospect, there is a better entry point where a marked pest control line leaves the track.

I cast around but there are a lot of animal trails so I can't see any obvious trail along the gorge.  As we climb the spur we start to come across old spray marks on trees signaling that we have joined the informal track. 

As we climb on to the ridge proper, the bush becomes more mature and it's quite beautiful travel.  A bit of inevitable windfall keeps us guessing at times but it's as good going as I remember.

I'm expecting to see some marking to indicate the spur when we get to pt 641 - we don't see any so just take a bearing and bash a course down slope.  This drops us into a wee gut with a trickle of water - a bit of head scratching and I take us across and onto the spur proper - probably at about 550m.  There's a foot trail here - it looks like it meets the ridge in the saddle between pt 638 and 641 so we (I) were a little hasty leaving the ridge.

We drop to where the spur flattens as marked, and then face a final steep wee scramble down a bank to the shelter.  

The shelter is as per the photos and in good nick.  There are no obvious reasons for it to be here but it has served our purpose - an excuse to get into a corner you would not usually bother to explore.

We have lunch and consider options.  It's 2.50 and, although I am keen to explore the stream and gorge route, I don't think it wise given the pace we have managed.  Even returning the way we came I think we might be cutting it fine with daylight and park closure times (someone thinks it is 6pm at this time of year).  

We agree to head back the way we came and arrange for the hares (Laura and I) to take the car keys and race ahead should we need to ferry cars out of the park before the gates close.  

This time we manage to follow the informal trail all the way to the loop track with only a bit of casting around on the way.  Oh, and one deviation onto the wrong spur where the ridge splits at 550m - quickly identified and corrected with a thrash across the wee gully.    

We've kept an eye on the clock and decided to keep the group together - this is vindicated by our arrival time of 5.40 at the cars.  It always makes me a bit nervous splitting a group, as there are so many ways things can go pear shaped and without the ability to communicate between the two parties outcomes become quite unpredictable.  Sometimes it is just better to take the known hit of leaving a car for later pick up or having a long walk.  

All up, an enjoyable adventure close to home and still a couple of options to explore another day. 

Eastbourne huts

Janine has got wind of a couple of huts she would like to bag in the hills behind Eastbourne.  It sounds like a good diversion so Mike and I sign up.  The two objectives are Ranger's Hut and Stan's Hut.

What:    Hut Bagging
Where:  Eastbourne Hills
When:   26 March 2022
Who:     Mike and Janine

We start from Kowhai Street and follow the track up and over the ridge with expanding views of the harbour behind us.  At the track junction in the Butterfly Creek valley we take a bearing and head down slope, through kiekie to the creek.  We cast down stream a short way but don't find any obvious trails onto the spur where the Ranger's hut is located.  Heading back to where we met the creek we find some markers and follow these up hill.  Pretty soon the hut comes into sight through the trees on our left.  It's about midday - I didn't note the time we departed but it didn't take long.

Originally a solidly built and largish structure, it is showing signs of disrepair.  We fossick around the outside - it is well secured which is hardly surprising this close to readily accessible tracks.  

Back on the trail I lose track of the markers (probably a pest management trail) but it's not that steep and it's easy work up the slope to the top of the spur.  The trail along the spur is good and we rock along.  Stan's Hut is marked on the spur just before it starts climbing from the 200m contour - we keep our eyes peeled but in the end it is close to the trail and impossible to miss.  

It's a small and simple wooden structure with room for a bed inside and a wee deck out front.  The original log book is still there with (I assume) Stan's invitation to all dated May 1975:

"This shelter was constructed so that one could enjoy nature.  The trees that have been planted near this shelter are "food trees" for native birds.  To anyone who finds this shelter please use it, it is not private.  Please remove litter.  While you are here, listen to the insects and birds, rest a while."

It looks like Stan brought the materials in, built and maintained the hut and planted trees to attract birds.  There's also some news paper cuttings with a 2019 obituary that gives a bit more information about his life.  We take a bit of time to scan the log which has many entries from Stan and those that have appreciated the hut since.

With the official business of the day dealt with the plan is to head up the spur and along the ridge to drop down Kereru Track to Days Bay.

It's a bit slower than expected and it's easy to be a bit optimistic about progress as we roll over wee knobs and along the reasonably flat sections of ridge.  

Rata with an impressive root system

A couple of joggers potter past and we pause for photos at the foot of an impressive rata that has a  large exposed, convoluted root system.  As we head down Kereru track a couple of women pass in an upwards direction - punter one is swinging along, punter two looks ready to expire.  She gasps: "how far to the top?"  Mike replies that it's about 10 minutes - accurate for us but I suspect half an hour at the pace she is maintaining.  Ah well.

The support crew is enjoying a late lunch at the cafe at the bottom of the hill but by the time we turn up the kitchen has closed.   Ah well ano - back home via Zany Zeus it is.

Ohau track work weekend

Mike's life is organised on a Trello board and the board is saying that it is time for a track maintenance trip, to tidy up South Ohau Hut and the track to Girdlestone.  The former was in a dire and mouldy state last time Mike was through (but not so bad when I visited subsequently) and we have both experienced the hell scramble through old tree fall required on the track to Girdlestone Saddle.

What:    Track work weekend
Where:  Ohau and track to Girdlestone Saddle
Who:     Mike and Janine
When:   11-13 March 2022 

Mike and Janine set off from Wellington on Friday morning while I slip in three quarters of a day at work.  They are hoping to get in a few hours work on the track before I cruise in late for dinner.  

The start of the Shannon Road is closed and I waste time cruising Levin before giving up and cracking out google, consequently it is almost 4.30 before I leave the carpark. 

There are reports of a slip on the track in the gorge - I figure it will be crossable or by-passable so head on up the track.  On the way a winged shape catches my eye and I'm delighted to see a ruru a short way off in the supplejack keeping a keen eye on me.  A good start for the weekend.

There is a bypass over the slip but it is an easy few steps across and about an hour from the car I'm at the clearing below Gable.  On your own you can potter up the river at a reasonable pace and it's pretty familiar now.  By 6.10 I'm at the junction between North and South Ohau branches (foot off Deception Spur) and reach South Ohau Hut at 7.30 - three hours all up.

The news from Mike and Janine is mixed - they had a bit of a slow trip up river so didn't get up to Girdlestone Track, but on the positive side of the ledger, TARHC had just been in on a working bee and the hut is looking pristine.  They have also apparently done work on the treefall so we will see what needs doing in the morning.

It's a comfortable and convivial evening with a few craft beers to share.  

The hut boots - cut down the back so they fit anyone
No soles but

The morning is threatening drizzle - we are up and off by 8am with the intention of checking out the treefall and, if time allows, heading up to the ridge to drop down to North Ohau hut.  I'm a little surprised that Janine is keen to tackle this as she hasn't always been enthusiastic about some of my route choices!  I do my best to give an accurate description of what to expect. 

Some people have to duck a little more than others ...

We wander up stream to where orange triangles mark where to leave the creek and climb the spur just before the Dowling Falls Stream.  I made the mistake of heading up to the falls once and clambering up to the spur - not to be repeated.

When we get to the tree fall it is apparent that a lot of work has already been done - it is way better than it was.  We set about building on this and clearing more timber and material further along the spur.  Before long we declare victory and agree that we have time to take the scenic route to North Ohau.  

It's a bit of a mucky descent to the creek which we follow up stream.  It's pretty sketchy in places and Janine takes a bit of a tumble at one point.  The track is no longer marked on the topo map and I suspect that DOC is just letting it quietly fade away.  

I'm checking the map and scanning for markers which are somewhat sparse but do pick up the marker that indicates where the track leaves the creek and climbs for the ridge.  It's a bit of a scramble but at last we reach the flat top and thrash through the undergrowth until we stumble on the track between Te Matawai and Mangahao. 

Mike cracks out the jet boil and whips up some miso soup while we pause for lunch - an inspired move.  I've never been one for day time brews but this was perfectly timed.

We step past the track sign and head north and up the ridge.  There's some foot trail but a lot of tree fall so we zigzag our way along and over pt 735 in to the saddle beyond before the climb to pt 865.  Once the ridge narrows the track becomes more apparent.  I tick off the cairn at the top of Deception Spur (pt 865) and keep my eyes peeled for the top of the spur to North Ohau Hut.  We over shoot slightly but quickly find our way on to the spur.  I warn the others what to expect - 600m of knee trembling descent with a bit of scrub, kie kie and casting around for the trail. 

Since I was here last someone has applied a bit more pink ribbon to mark the way which makes things a bit easier - as we drop the weather clears and there is even some sun and blue sky.  Around 4.30 it's a tired but happy group that pops out into the hut clearing.  

Made it!

Time for afternoon tea

... and to get things drying

The hut is looking a bit neglected so we do a bit of tidying, cleaning, cut firewood and package rubbish to carry out.   Mike has discovered his pack has let a bit of water in during the day and has a bit of kit to set to dry in the afternoon air.  

I can't remember what was for dinner but it was something that Jennine brought and it was very good.  

There's no hurry in the morning so we do the final tidy up and get away near 9.30, getting to Deception Spur by 10.40.   

It's a beautiful day.  We bump into some meet-up mates of Mike - a large group heading up to North Ohau for a day trip.  We also take the opportunity to visit Rabbit Flat "Hut".  This has been referred to as a hidden hut but it turns out is now little more than a rubbish heap in the bush.  Thanks hunters.  

  

Draining the boots before leaving the river. 

We potter back along the track to reach the cars before 2pm.  A good weekend topped off by a late lunch at the Deer Museum and Cafe/Bar in Manakau.  A unique experience.

Maud Island - Te Hoiere

Iona notices an advert for trips to Maud Island in the Marlborough Sounds - Angela is going and I manage to gate crash at the last moment.  Maud Island is a DOC Reserve with a ranger (and family as it turns out) on site.  Access is restricted and it seems like too good an opportunity to miss.

Angela and I rock up for a Friday evening Sounds Air flight to Blenheim - an attempt to get on the earlier flight is thwarted when the the ground crew belatedly realise we have the wrong boarding cards and call us back off the tarmac. Oh well, our flight still leaves early and we are being picked up in Blenheim about the same time we are supposed to be departing Wellington - I love Sounds Air!   

What:    Tourist trip to Maud Island
Where:   Marlborough Sounds
When:    15 January 2022
Who:       Iona and Angela

We convene at the Havelock Marina Pier C where a couple of DOC staff do the biosecurity check.  Seeds and mice are an issue and I thought I had checked my gear before I left.  But ... I've changed to my trail shoes and waiting in the queue I discover a truly astounding amount of grass seed caught in the mesh.  It's the most use I've ever got out of swiss army tweezers. When it's my turn I dutifully turn out pockets, backpack and display shoes that are now pristine. 

Eyeing up the boat we quickly identify that the plum spot is tucked in behind the cabin under the overhanging deck.  We nab it and settle in for the trip.

Our Captain (Gary) is part of a family that are long term resident of the Sounds and has worked the essential Mail Boat.  He is assisted by Mariett who makes sure we are plied with tea at appropriate times.  He maintains a commentary through the trip. 

We cruise out of the marina, around Cullen Point and into Pelorus Sound.  At this point roads and houses are visible along the shore line, but these soon drop behind as we cruise past the opening of Keneperu Sound and into Hikapu Reach.  We cruise in close to the mussel farms in Nikau Bay - Gary is in favour of the mussels but is not so keen on the pines which he sees as damaging the land and the water ways.  

Mussel farms

We pass Nydia Bay and into broader waters to approach a Gannett colony.  They seem pretty unperturbed as we bump against their rock - more interested in peeling off into the wind and heading off to feed.  The colony has grown from a few individuals to a sizable group over recent years.  Around the corner there is a face where juveniles are perching - the white streaks on the rock make it very obvious where the birds are choosing to perch.  It looks they are quite fussy about where they roost - presumably for the exactly best locations for wind to aid take off and landing.  As we leave the juveniles a large group take to the air and wheel and gather as the boat cruises away.  

Past Whakamawahi Point we again approach the shore, but not so close this time.  Here there is a colony of rare shags - they are more weary and we can see them shifting uneasily at our presence even though we are some way out.  

Maud Island is now dead ahead, and Gary recommends we have our lunch and use the loo before landing.  It's an intriguing shape with a long narrow neck pointing towards us.  The jetty is dead ahead and we come straight in to unload about 12.20.

Time on the island is limited with the departure time set for 3.30.  There's a foot bath on the jetty and we climb up the farm track to meet the ranger and family.  Nick and Jen with Theo (5) and Georgina (toddler) have only recently arrived on the island but give a credibly expert run down on the island history and wildlife.  

The main claim to fame is that although the island was a farm - a patch of bush above the homestead was never cleared and was subsequently discovered to contain approx 40,000 specimens of Maud Island frog Leiopelma pakeka.  There are other colonies and Zelandia has them but this is the most significant population.  It's almost unbelievable that the island has remained largely predator free, given its location and previous use.  Maud Island Frog doesn't hop, croak, have a tadpole stage and lives its life within a very small area - achieving ages in the mid 30s.

They also have giant weta (one of which emerges and climbs up a punter's leg during the course of the talk) carnivorous snails, and a rare flax weevil that we don't see.

After the talk they take us up to the gun emplacement at the northern tip of the island.  Stopping at the magazine on the way where a colony of cave weta have taken over, gathering in spiky clumps on the roof.

The emplacement is in mint condition and commands the northern tip of the island - ostensibly controlling the entrance to Pelorus Sound, directly ahead.  I quickly work out a way to get the best views by climbing onto the roof.

 

Back towards the neck

Looking up the island

The island used to be bare apart from the patch of bush above the homestead - it's good to see the natives reestablishing.  I find a wee track in front of the emplacement and follow it to see how far down the point you can get.  It leads to a beacon and a quiet spot to enjoy the view.

Back at the emplacement the group has headed off and we have a few minutes to enjoy the site alone before following along to the homestead.

Nick answers a few more questions then it's time to head back to the jetty.  

You saw the small Giant weta - the real ones are much bigger ...

We board the boat and wave good bye to Nick and Jen on the jetty and watch Maud Island disappear in our wake.  It's a quieter and more direct trip back.  We snooze on the deck, drink tea and chill until pulling into Havelock about 6pm.   A fantastic trip.