Queen Charlotte by MTB

About five years ago Mike had a significant birthday and we gave him a voucher for a MTB trip through the Heaphy track.  This was proving logistically a bit tricky so we eventually settled on a date (Waitangi weekend) to do the Queen Charlotte track instead, giving the advantage of summer riding and the ability to stay with the support crew in comfortable accommodation.

The track is open for 43 Km from Camp Bay (Kenepuru Saddle) to Anakiwa during summer so it's not the whole experience but still a good day or weekend jaunt.  I'd done the route from Anakiwa to the road above Camp Bay (Kenepuru Saddle) once before in different circumstances (link).

Click here to see the route in Google maps.

The support crew is augmented by Angela and her mum (who were kicking off a grand tour of the South) and Toby.  Just Mike and I biking; Josh was also a starter but unfortunately had to pull out just before kick off.  He was however incredibly sporting, allowing the use of his Forester, the perfect vehicle for frightening oncoming traffic on narrow roads and hauling dirty bikes and bikers (I've found that someone else's car is generally preferred for this sought of activity).

We rock up for the Friday evening Bluebridge sailing which is virtually deserted.  The company's legendary easy going attitude is tested when Mike misses boarding in the car because he's at McDonalds. But he hitches a lift with some bemused tourists and everyone is soon settling into the quiet room, the movie room, the cafe, or the cabin that Angela had the foresight to book.

After a smooth crossing and a night at the perfectly adequate Picton Yacht Club the bikers potter off down to the Cougar Line office to shell out $60 each for one way transfers plus $18 for a multi-day pass (2 to five days) for the track from the office next door.  There's at least two other companies providing pick-up/drop-off options and luggage transfers. This all leaves ample time for breakfast at Le Cafe before a 10am departure.

Before - clean, uninjured and full of anticipation

Just one of the support crew rustles up enough enthusiasm to wave the boys good-bye, the others loiter about the motel and Picton's Cafes before a leisurely drive to Portage via the Slip Inn in Havelock.

Right - let's see why it's called Cougar Line

Steaming out
The keen eyed may detect the boys on the back deck to the left

The boat is a twin hull of a good size and 10 or 15 bikes are loaded on, various parcels and more than 20 people.  It turns out to be a shuttle rather than a taxi; we roar across the water but stop to make about 10 drop off and pick ups around the Sounds (including Ships Cove which looks like a gorgeous spot). It's quite interesting to pull in at the various jetties and see slices of peoples holidays, from families snorkeling near their wee cribs, to lunching ladies landing at large lodges.  We are also impressed to see the amount of work on wilding pines with ridge-sides of dead trees making way for regenerating bush - but plenty more to do.

Eventually (almost 2 hours later) all the bikers are dropped off at Camp Bay (Punga Cove).  There's a cafe by the wharf whose patrons look on with mild interest as bikers organise themselves in all directions.  The instructions are pretty clear - head right off the wharf and follow the wee track around to the DoC campsite (toilets, cooking shelter, water, tent sites).  Being midday we stop in for lunch and a lass appears out of a nearby tent - she is staying for 2 weeks as a volunteer campsite "host" - obviously a fairly busy spot and I imagine her presence ensures a few more people pay than would otherwise.

Lots of sympathy for a hot biker

A quad track dives up the hill behind the camp - steep but rideable for the determined, leading to a gravel road up to Kenepuru Saddle (180m).  You could take the road from here further out into the sounds or back down Kenepuru sound to Portage.  However, we turn left onto single track up the ridge between Kenepuru and Queen Charlotte Sounds. It climbs, sidles at 300m, then drops and climbs to 400m.  Some sections are pretty steep and the early afternoon is warm but at least the the track is bone dry, which is lucky as there is a lot of clay and it looks like it could be a bit lethal in the wet.

We catch up and talk with a couple from the Nederlands on hire bikes who we see quite a bit of over the next couple of days. We take it easily so see most of the other bikers from the boat. There are also a handful of walkers but not as many as we expect.

The biking attire of the well dressed gent

A fine figure

There's a bit of private land along the track and the landowner around here seems intent on adding value with various signs including one exhorting bikers to slow down and look at the stunning view (it was).

First glimpse of Kenepuru sound

The track drops from 400m and we're cruising down at a good rate under pine trees when suddenly Mike's bike drops from under him and he crunches into the deck. There's a bit of a pause to straighten things out but we can't quite work out what went wrong.  Best bet is that he slipped off the shortened grips left when the bar ends were removed.  A few minor scrapes but nothing serious and the bike is fine so we head off at a more sedate pace.  The track climbs again to the Bay of Many Coves DoC campsite (toilet, tent sites, basic kitchen shelter, roof water) where we refill bottles before continuing the climb to the highest point of the trip (a bit below 500m).

Further along the Sound
Portage is in the bay behind and to the left of what looks like an island in the distance
Photo adjusted so you can see the Sound

Four kiwi blokes on bikes are taking a break at the top - they are also on a birthday trip but had included a big night in Picton so one or two are a little seedy.   They depart and a group of women appear out of the undergrowth having walked up from one of the bays below, this place is getting busy.  We chat for a bit before heading off down a hard clay and rock section.  Just out of sight of the walkers Mike disappears in a cloud of dust to reappear sliding down the rocky surface head first underneath his bike.  This time he's managed to leave a fair amount of skin on the track and fully justified the price of his gloves.  No broken bones though and after a bit of handlebar adjustment, he still has a fully functional bike.

The track undulates along giving views into both Sounds, and alternating between gentle sidling, steep grunts, beautiful bush and bare sections.  On a steepish downhill Mike's carrier disgorges his water bladder - it stays connected, thrashing around at the end of its tube and threatening to wind itself through the gears, but there's no stopping 'til the bottom. Surprisingly both it and Mike survive the experience with only a slight reduction in functionality (the nipple starts falling off - the bottle not Mike).

Black Rock Campsite is a milestone as it indicates we are getting near the end of the climbing and close to the last sidling run down to Torea Saddle (it's also a chance to fill water bottles).  We stop in and surprise a walker from Copenhagen who has also come through from Camp Bay - it's been long and hot for her and she's looking forward to getting to the Campsite at Cow Shed Bay.

Hold on, hold on - take the photo after I start pedaling

Coming into Black Rock Campsite

Finally it's the last long descent of the day through lovely bush.  Good visibility so no reason to hang about until a burst of loud anguished swearing from ahead.  A wasp has landed on Mike's arm and is casually stinging him while he can't swat it because he's hard on the brakes.  Whether a result of the wasp or end of the day fatigue two minutes later a pedal clips a rock and I am treated to the sight of Mike and bike hurtling sideways off the track and down a bank - this time Mike's upside down with a leg trapped in the bike at an angle it didn't oughta be at but surprisingly there's less damage than from the last off: one bent brake lever and a few more scrapes.  Fortunately it's only a couple of hundred meters later that we meet the tar seal road at Torea Saddle for a careful cruise down to the Portage, arriving about 5 hours after the boat drop off.

Bloodied but cheerful

The gory details

There's a few accommodation options around Portage but the support crew refused to entertain the possibility of the DoC Cowshed Bay campsite or the back-packers, so Portage Resort it is.  The rooms are a bit dated but have fantastic views across the bay into Kenepuru Sound, are quite comfortable and there's a pool, bar and restaurant.  The food and service is not to bad and we see some of the other bikers already in situ.  Mike is sore but gamely professes to have enjoyed the day and his injuries are promptly posted on face book for all to enjoy.

The support crew have been hard at it ...

Noses to the grind stone ...

Tireless.

Planning session over iron rations

Evening view from the balcony - not so bad

And a mighty fine view in the morning too

Despite the damage from the day before Angela lets me take Mike out for day two.  The section from Portage to Te Mahia Saddle starts with a steep and hot climb (a lot of pushing) but again rewarded by views across both sounds.   We stop to shift Mike's gear changers resulting in a huge improvement in control and no more spills. The down hills are huge fun - a mix of wide and fast, tight turns and a few slightly technical bits requiring a bit of attention.  There are a lot more walkers about so we don't push it.

Another bit of a push

We cross Te Mahia saddle shortly before midday and continue along the track, which gently climbs from 100m to 200m over about 3 km, and shows signs of a lot of development work.  We've packed a picnic today that would pass muster as an antipasto at a flash cafe, so stop for a good while to enjoy olives, pate, Camembert, and an assortment of cured meats on pita bed, over looking Onahau Bay.

This section is certainly the most cruisey riding - no great climbs, nicely benched, some beautiful bush, a bit of farm land...

Some not so rough track

As the track rounds the point before heading up Grove Arm there's a lookout which seems to be the destination for many as a there-and-back trip from Anakiwa.  There's also a ton of wasps and Mike has clearly not got over his experience yesterday, judging by the swearing and dancing about.

The lookout
Looking up Grove Arm to Link Water

We stay for a bit but it's pretty crowded, and there is a long downhill through beech forest beckoning, so we head out passing a folding bike on the way and many walkers.

Cruising the beech - coming

And going 
(The astute will notice that these are actually taken on the way back)

Shortly after the track reaches sea level there's a campsite at Davies Bay - There's no-one about and it looks idyllic, although probably gets pretty busy.  There's water and loos and a huge lawn for camping.

The high quality track continues to Anakiwa, which is pumping. All the bikes off our boat are waiting for a pick-up, the car park is full, and there are people and boats everywhere.  Our first stop is the caravan selling coffee, cold drinks at reasonable prices, and a basic range of food.

We are relaxing at the road end shelter chatting to the walker from Copenhagen, when an older couple turn up with a wheel barrow full of plums.  We help them unload and put up a sign: "Free Satsuma plums."  They say that the plums are just falling off the tree and going to waste, so they thought they would make them available.  We set them up next to the free library in the road end shelter.

The support crew are happy to be advised that we will return to Te Mahia saddle for pick-up, after we have enjoyed the afternoon chatting and waiting for the boat to pick up the other bikers.  It's a bit before 4pm when we head back up the track; a little quieter but still a few people about including a chap on an electric bike with his partner - he makes heavy weather of it but gets to the look out OK. They head back to Anakiwa and we have the spot to ourselves.  The Sounds are busy with boats and the baches along the Grove Track are copping the full afternoon sun - it's not exactly the back of beyond but it's a pretty cool spot.

Approaching the lookout

The last stretch along to the saddle is sweet riding, with a lot less traffic and we arrive bang on schedule. Mike and Sally load up while I scoot 10 km back along the tarseal to Portage.  Angela and Margot have headed south, so it's a much smaller group tonight and Mike hasn't got any more war wounds for show and tell.

The next day we head for Picton and the ferry but I can't resist taking the MTB track above the Grove track from Ngakuta bay to just short of the top of Wedge Point.  The track climbs above the road, with a few steepish pitches, but all ridable and provides views across Grove Arm to the Queen Charlotte track. There's a lot of clay, and it will be interesting to see how well the surface holds up.

All up, we took two easy days to complete the track and double the last section.  The track is generally in good condition, providing enjoyable riding.  There's quite a few steep pitches between Camp Bay and Te Mahia, that have most people pushing, and some sections look like they will be a bit treacherous in the wet.  The views are great, there's plenty of facilities on the way, and options for accommodation.  The Anakiwa section provides great options for shorter, easier trips.

Afterwards - dusty and a little battered but that was great fun!

Cape Palliser to Cape Reinga

Mangapurua Track

At the start of 2015 I took a bit of a trip up the South Island on the bike so this year it seemed appropriate to finish the job with a similar trip through the North.  The same philosophy applied, i.e. carry enough to be self-sufficient on the road but ok for pick-up and return to points where accommodation is available.

This time it would be South to North again for no better reason than the support crew could kick around home for a few days before setting off in pursuit.  The Tour Aotearoa brevet covering the length of both islands was tempting but I wouldn’t be fit enough and timing was not the best.   However, the Tour provided a good starting point for a route with some variations: most notably starting at Cape Palliser (southern-most part of the North Island), including the lower part of the Manawatu Gorges-to-Sea cycle route instead of touring the hills north of Ashhurst, and crossing Waiheke Island instead of traversing the whole of Auckland.

A map of my route is here.  But in summary:

Start: Cape Palliser to White Rock then inland to Carterton, join the Tour route at Masterton and follow it through Wairarapa back roads and over the Pahiatua track to Palmerston North.  Depart from the Tour route to join the Gorges to Sea Cycleway near Tangimoana to just North of Marton, then back country roads re-joining the Tour route through to Whanganui, up the river to Pipiriki, jet boat to the Bridge to Nowhere track and on to the Kaiwhakauka track to Whakahoro then back roads to Owhango.  More back roads through Tauramanui to Ongarue and join the Timber Trail.  Forestry and rural roads to the Waikato River Trail through to Lake Karapiro than across the plains to join the Hauraki Rail Trail to Thames.  Another departure from the Tour route at this point to head to Coromandel and catch a ferry to Waiheke.  Cross Waiheke and another ferry to Auckland to do battle with the cycleways and emerge in Helensville to catch another boat across the Kaipara Harbour to the northern heads at Poutu Point.  Back roads to Dargaville and beyond to the Waipoua Forest through to Hokianga Harbour and the ferry at Rawene.  Back roads to Ahipara then up 90 Mile Beach to follow SH1 for the final leg up to Cape Reinga.

A few numbers ...

• 12 days cycling
• 1 rest day
• 5 boats
• 1,423 km (not including boats)
• 2 bikes
• 1 puncture

With basically no cycling since January, fitness was a bit lacking but I figured on starting gently to get back into the swing of it.  The bike was the next thing, I had a cyclo-cross bike on order from Torpedo7 but as the start date drew near there was no news and they didn’t seem keen on answering e-mails.  So plan B; the mechanic checks over the old MTB but doesn’t have the parts to deal with the forks (still dodgy from last trip).  They would have to do with a bit of judicious pumping and hopefully the new bike will arrive before the support crew sets off.

Link to day one: Cape Palliser to Carterton

Table of contents

Day one      Cape Palliser to Carterton

Day two      Carterton to Palmerston North

Day three    Palmerston North to Koriniti

Day four     Koriniti to Whakahoro 

Day five     Whakahoro to Owhango and a day off

Day six       Owhango to Piropiro

Day seven   Piropiro to Waipapa

Day eight    Waipapa to Paeroa

Day nine     Paeroa to Ostend

Day ten       Ostend to Dargaville

Day eleven  Dargaville to Ahipara

Day twelve  Ahipara to Cape Reinga

Technical notes

Cape to Cape day one: Palliser to Carterton

Saturday 2 January 2016

Route
Cape Palliser Lighthouse, coast track to White Rock Road, inland to Carterton via Tuturumuri, Te Muna Road, Longbush Road and Millar Road.

Link to Map

Distance: 108 Km

Cape Palliser - first light

It’s not exactly early but getting from the Hutt to Cape Palliser in time for an 8am start is as much as can be expected from any long-suffering support crew.  It’s overcast and threatening rain as the bike is assembled at the road-end, below the lighthouse.  The peculiar, rank and sweaty smell of seals pervades the air.

The track up the coast continues from the Lighthouse carpark.  The signs on the gate are relatively mild but are more fierce at the north end so in retrospect it is probably best to seek permission from the landowners (the number is in the Kennett's Classic MTB rides book).  Today I’m only following the coast as far as White Rock Road but an alternative is to seek permission from various landowners and continue up the coast before heading inland and over Admiral Hill to Gladstone – maybe another time.

It’s about 10 km of coastal track to White Rock Road.  Somewhat bumpy and a bit of pushing required through a long sandy stretch but pretty straight forward.  It’s typically South Coast: bleak with wind battered scrub and angular sand collected in the lee of ridges.  The riding surface improves and after the northern gate it’s pretty good quality gravel.  White Rock is obvious with a cluster of camping surfers starting to stir then the road turns inland to follow the river and eventually a bit of climbing.  It starts to spit and pretty much keeps it up all day but that keeps the temperature down.

Getting started

The foothills to the Aorangi Forest Park lie to the left but there’s only a couple of climbs on the road, the last of which is after Tuturumuri and climbs steepishly to the wind farm (on seal to about 350m). But with little traffic it’s pleasant riding.  There’s no need to visit Martinborough so I take a right into Te Muna Rd (after Ruakokoputuna Rd on the left).  There’s some interesting vineyards along the road, which is a mix of gravel and seal, and pops you out on Hinakura Road a few kms before the left into Longbush Road (the famous Bell Tea corner - well, famous for old people that remember the TV ad).

The unaccustomed exercise calls for a bit of a rest on a soggy roadside before heading up to Millars Road (goes near Aotearoa Henge – well worth a visit) and a zigzag across the flats to Carterton and the comfort of number one brother’s house with a steep driveway designed to finish off weary cyclists.

After 108 or so km it’s a little after 3 and the bike is requiring a bit of TLC.  The body is also muttering about the unaccustomed treatment but a good meal and comfortable bed compensates.


Link to day two: Carterton to Palmerston North

Cape to Cape day two: Carterton to Palmerston North

Route
SH 1 through Masterton, back roads from Opaki to Mauriceville West, Hastwell and Eketahuna, Mangaone Valley to Pahiatua, Pahiatua track to Palmerston North.

Link to Map

Distance: 132 Km

It’s not an early start but eventually I potter off up SH 1 to join the Tour route from Masterton.   It’s an interesting section, somewhat hilly with gravel and seal. The day gets hot but there’s a few things to stop and look at including the site of a camp which housed Scandinavians who had come across to tend land that was not ready for them so they worked on the roads. Also a Norwegian Church on a hill.

About 1pm the route comes into Eketahuna from the east (after crossing SH 2).  It’s as busy as I’ve ever seen it and one of the cafés supplies toasties and ginger beer. A quick pump of the shocks and its off east along the Alfredton Road before turning for a long delightful run down Mangaone Valley Road to Pahiatua, with little traffic and a kind wind.

Busy morning in Eketahuna

The weather packs in so I take a snooze on the pavement under an awning, it doesn’t clear so eventually I have to harden up and leave during a lull.  In short order it’s dumping down and the lights are on.

The route leaves the main road and follows the windy gravel Tararua Road to the foot of the climb over the range.  The road surface is a bit rough which slows things down and I’m happy enough to start the climb on seal in the cool rain.

At 6.30 pm I’m pulling into sister number one’s place nursing some fine saddle sores and feeling every inch of the lack of fitness.  The bike is ok but the shocks need pumping twice a day.


Link to day three: Palmerston North to Koriniti

Cape to Cape day three: Palmerston North to Koriniti

Route
Across the plains via Rongotea to Tangimoana Road, follow the Gorges to Sea Cycle way to North of Marton, leaving it to follow Makahou Road to Turakina Valley and up to join the Wild Rover (and the Tour route) at Mangatipona Road,  Wild Rover to Whanganui, then Whanganui River Road to Koriniti.

Link to Map

Distance: 192 Km

Today marks a serious diversion from the Tour route.  After a good breakfast and a leisurely start, instead of heading north to Ashhurst and thrashing around in the hills around Apiti, its west across the plains via the small town of Rongotea to join the Manawatu Gorges to Sea Cycle Trail.
It’s gloriously flat and the wind is largely tail so it’s quick travel across SH1 to follow Tangimoana and other roads up beside the Rangitikei river.

This part of the cycle route is not spectacular; basically flat farm land, a few busy  road crossings and not a lot to see.  During a pause for a snack three cyclists heading north up Tangimoana Rd stop for a chat.  They are walking Te Araroa and borrowed bikes from the backpackers in Bulls but have decided to return them and walk as the wind is making things too unpleasant. They have a pretty tedious day in front of them but seem pretty cheerful about it.

My route crosses the Rangitikei River via Kakariki Road before a short section of SH 1 (wide shoulder and easy going) then across to Marton for lunch and essential supplies (iced coffee, pie and Vaseline).

The unfortunately named Tutaenui Road takes me north and into some gentle and picturesque hills to Turakina Valley Road, then up to join the tour route on Mangatipona Road on the route between Hunterville and Whanganui (the Wild Rover).  Calls to the jet boat companies around 4pm determined that one is booked out so I reserve a space on the other. Bookings are not refundable so I have to cover the 110 km to Pipiriki by 10am tomorrow. No pressure.

Taking a break - Mangatipona Road

I have found a clever short cut on Google to join SH 4 and avoid Whanganui, so take a right into Mangamahu Road only to find that “Te Rimu Rd” is private.  There’s no cell coverage and no-one at the farm house I stop at, so nothing for it but to trudge back to the main road and on to Whanganui with 15 Km wasted.

It’s well after 5pm when I leave Whanganui up SH 4 so I’m pretty sure I won’t make the 78 odd km to Pipiriki tonight but intend to make a start.    At the turn off to Whanganui Road the sun is setting, giving the chance to bask in the last light, fuel up, study the information boards, and put the lights on.  There are a few settlements with accommodation including Koriniti which I figure is as far as I’m likely to get.

The Gentle Annie Hill is not high (170m) but I’m pretty pleased to get to the top and pause over the view across peaceful farming flats around the river surrounded by bush clad hills.  The light dims as the road follows the winding river valley.  It turns out that the whole length is sealed (barring road works) – last time I came through a fair chunk was gravel.  The names are intriguing Atene (Athens), Koriniti (Corinth), Ranana (London) and Hiruharama (Jerusalem).

Many settlements have a Marae that seem to be in good shape and the roads are virtually deserted.  I give one local a bit of a fright as he is hunting along the edge of the road with his rifle and is not expecting a bike to drift by in the gloom.

I’m aiming to stop at the Flying Fox at Koriniti but they have a sign insisting that bookings are required.  I’m pretty weary now so stagger up the road a short distance and find a corner by a bridge to pitch my bivvy. It’s not a very comfortable night but I keep dry and am relieved to be off my feet.


Link to day four: Koriniti to Whakahoro

Cape to Cape day four: Koriniti to Whakahoro

Route
Whanganui River Road to Pipiriki, Jet boat to Mangapurua landing, Kaiwhakauka track to Whakahoro.

Link to Map

Distance: 72 Km (by bike)

Dawn reveals that the tent is nowhere near as secluded as I had fondly imagined last night.  No cars pass as I quickly pack and head off.  My new MacPac bivvy ‘tent’ has done the job – no condensation and the wee hoop keeps the material off your face.  I’m still tired and pretty sore so take a leisurely pace eventually seeing the distinctive spire of St Joseph’s in Jerusalem, marking the final leg to Pipiriki.

Whanganui Jet Boat Adventures is based at the old school (accommodation available) and provides complimentary tea and coffee.   I top up, air my sleeping kit and soak up the morning sun.   An Aussie cyclist gets chatting about biking kit; he’s taking a good few weeks to get some biking in NZ and today is heading up river in the jet boat in order to kayak back down.

Bike on boat number one

It’s $90 dollars for the one way trip with the bike to the Bridge to Nowhere track and I’m asked more than once if that’s what I am wanting – evidently not many people travel in this direction.  The punters for the trip are a mix of kayakers, those just taking the jet boat trip, and a woman returning to a family home on the river.  We are all fitted with life jackets and the sole bike is lashed to the frame at the back of the boat.

Just don't fall out, OK?

Our guide and driver gives the obligatory safety briefing and we head off up river past the opposition’s boat which is also about to set out. I’m sitting next to a young chap whose father is driving another boat loaded with kayaks, he knows the ropes and keeps an eye out that the punters are following the rules.  He reckons that he will be driving one day.

Cycling up the river

The guide points out various sights - a large eel traps like those used in the past, a waterfall in a cave, various rapids the kayakers will have to be careful of, sockets formed in the rock where Maori poled their waka up-river, eyelets for winching the larger river boats when the river was a major passage north, and points where Maori villages were located on bluffs high above the river.  There are plenty of kayakers coming down river. The driver doesn’t pull any stunts on the way up (evidently available on request on the return trip).

Unloading is straight forward.  There’s a couple of bikes waiting to get on and a few steps to wrestle up but from there it’s easy riding a couple of km through bush up to the bridge.  Despite the expectation the bridge is a surprise – DoC have done a good job of cleaning it up and it fair sparkles in the sun.  It spans a small gorge with a modest stream between steep bush clad banks. There’s quite a crowd before long, with two boat loads and a group of local blokes that have come down valley as far as they could on quads and walked the rest.

The bridge

The day is hot as anything and I’m still not feeling great so keep going after a short stop.  It’s interesting single track riding with some pretty views down to the tea coloured stream against white papa cliffs. There’s plenty of sites to camp.  The small swing bridges require hoisting the bike onto the back wheel and I’m pleased I don’t have panniers sticking out the sides.  Periodically there are grassy meadows and wooden plaques with names next to the track – presumably these are those who received the original farm ballots.

Yep - the water is that colour

Before long (8 Km?) the track turns into a quad track, it’s well formed and in good nick (but apparently it can get a bit cut up) and hot.  The quads eventually rattle past back up the valley and a school group passes on the way down.  Things reach a bit of low point physically and with low energy and unable to keep anything down, it’s a relief to reach the top and start coasting downhill.


The turn into Maungapurua Road is well marked but is not as well formed as I had thought from Google.  There’s a digger part way down repairing the track but towards the bottom there’s the long single Kaiwhakauka Track which would be great fun riding at another time.  I’m going slower and slower and eventually trickle into Whakahoro on dusk.  There’s no meal or accommodation available at Blue Duck Lodge but there’s space in the DoC cabin across the road and a hot shower for $4 at the Lodge which I take advantage of.

There’s plenty of kayakers at the camp site, all with fresh food and luxuries that they can carry on their boats.  I’m sitting gathering my thoughts when one stops by offering chocolate – “you look like you need it!” it’s a measure of how I feel that I can’t say yes.  A can of Sprite from the lodge is all I can manage before turning in.  An older couple (one a retired botanist) and a couple with 10 year old son are also in the cabin.


Link to day five: Whakahoro to Owhango

Cape to Cape day five: Whakahoro to Owhango and a rest day

Route
Oio Road and Kawautahi Road to Owhango.

Link to Map

Distance: 43 km

Despite a good sleep I’m still feeling wrung out but a ‘serves two’ dinner for breakfast helps and I take time to chat to some of the kayakers.  A couple of sisters, one running a cooking school in Germany are taking a holiday prior to sorting out an estate, and the 10 year old runs me through the marathon holiday his family from Christchurch are on – after kayaking they are doing the Tongariro Crossing before climbing Taranaki and heading to Rainbows End in Auckland.

Waterfall by Kawautahi Road

After they’ve all packed up and gone I get things together and head up Oio Road for Owhango via Kawautahi road.  It’s pleasant travel with a bit of traffic at the start.  I stop for a chat with a farmer replacing some fencing before the final climb then the run down into Owhango where there’s a decent café and Spark cell coverage.  Sally just happens to be driving through from Wellington when I ring and turns up within five minutes.  

It turns out that my new bike is still in Hamilton. I call it quits for the day with a view to picking it up tomorrow and resuming the trip the day after.  The Forgotten World Motel in Taumaranui is perfectly comfortable accommodation with dinner at the RSA.

Thursday:  A new bike

Not much to say – a road trip to Hamilton (compulsory stop at Haddad’s in Otorohanga) leaving the old bike at the genteel (i.e. flash) Cambridge Coach House out of Cambridge on the way.  Pick up the new bike (full name: Ridley 2015 X-Ride 20 Disc Cyclocross), bring it back to the accommodation and test their tolerance by spreading gear across the landscape stripping down old bike, setting up the new bike, fiddling, adjusting and readjusting etc.

Finally!

A bike that will make me very happy,
from a company that wants to serve the children of my children  

Fiddling

More fiddling with some supervisory assistance

And ready for action

It takes a lot of fiddling to get the luggage to fit as the frame bag is the wrong shape and the drop bars require a different bed roll arrangement - but it comes together well in the end.  Note the quick draw bottles in two cages hose clipped to the down tube.

It’s going to be interesting – my first cyclo-cross bike: narrower tyres, no front suspension and overall less robust than the MTB but lighter and hopefully quicker.  After all the farfing about there’s still time for dinner with number two brother and sister in-law in Cambridge.


Link to day six: Owhango to Piropiro