With good weather forecast and river gauges showing normal flows exploring a stream or two seems like a good option.
I've always wondered about Waitatapia Stream - it's a straight wee valley running north from near Otaki Forks. There's not many trip reports on the intranet that I could find and I'm wondering if there might be some old logging trails in the lower valley. To round the trip out, I decide to pick up a short section of so far unexplored ridge and pop over to Island Forks Hut for the night.
I'm mindful about my recent inactivity so warn the support crew that it's an 'optimistic plan' (i.e. I might be coming out by torch light or holing up somewhere). A trip report from Leisure Life Larry sounds a bit of a warning about the ridge in question ...
Having contemplated these matters during lunch on Friday, the trip pretty much designs itself ... in to Island Forks Hut via the ridge route checking for a better route around the 'slip' on the old Waitewaewae track on the way. Out via Mick Stream to the ridge between Mick and 975, then bash down to the headwaters of the Waitatapia and follow back down to Saddle Stream.
What: Navigation trip
Where: Waitatapia stream and Island Forks
When: 31 Aug - 1 Sept 2019
Who: Solo
Maps:
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| Large scale - Otaki forks at bottom |
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| Start (up ridge) and finish (down stream) - commute along the YTYY track omitted |
Just after 7am - I'm pulling my boots on when an older chap with a weathered looking day pack pauses and asks where I'm headed. I say Waita-taapia - he pauses and says 'oh Wai-tata-pia. He is of course completely correct in emphasising all syllables equally - I've been mispronouncing it all along (not that it comes up in conversation often).
It's a cool, pleasant morning and promising to be a fine day. Winter hasn't left even a lingering hint in the air.
The sun is on the surrounding hills but not quite on the flats as I head across the swing bridge and along the Waitewaewae track. The old tramway is as easy going as always; I potter along past the first slip and the 'new' sidle track. Today I'm heading further along to the second slip.
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| First slip |
A little before the slip a wee stream meets the track and markers follow its course up hill. This is the point to start the detour around the slip (you can also go to the slip edge and work your up but it can be messy). The trail heads up then along a bit to meet the slip edge - it used to cross here but the slip is much bigger now. I say slip but the thing has passed 'slip' and 'erosion chute' status and is well on the way to becoming a respectable gully now.
I peer out and think there might possibly be a way to scramble across, but it looks a bit hairy so I resolve to go around this time and have a look from the other side for future reference.
A rougher trail leads further up and soon gets hard to follow in kiekie. Then supplejack. There are a few indications people have been through but it's hard to follow any route and it's pretty unpleasant in places. I pop out on the edge of the slip on the way down the other side - yep, there might be a route across but it would be dicey.
Back on the track it's easy going again to Saddle Creek. I leave the orange triangles that head up towards the plateau, and head down stream to the Waitatapia, arriving about 8.50am.
It will be ridge travel for the next few hours so I fill up - I also stack a few stones on prominent boulders so I'll recognise this spot if I'm coming down the Waitatapia in dim light tomorrow.
It's now a brilliant day but cool as I clamber onto the spur beside Saddle Creek. I start the climb at an easy pace and pause often in deference to my shape.
There's possibly a bit of foot trail and once an old tarpaulin, but pretty good going apart from some messy wind fall towards the top of the spur. At the ridge I follow compass and map and keep an eye on the altimeter. The foot trail comes and goes and it pays to keep your eyes peeled. It's pretty good bush with some lovely mossy spots for rests.
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| One of very few markers on the ridge |
There's a wee saddle before the two knobs south of 975 where you get a window out of the forest and across an erosion chute to wild and woolly Tararua interior. There's snow on some of the distant peaks but the tussock on the nearby Mt Crawford is tawny gold in the midday sun - well, the 1.20pm sun.
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| Tail of Oriwa Ridge in middle - Mt Crawford out of sight to right |
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| Slip south of 975 |
When I think I'm at 975 I find a ground trail into a clearing on the west side of the ridge where I can take a back bearing from Tangata Maunga to confirm I am where I think I am. Time to find my spur down to the Waitewaewae River.
I take a bearing and set off across the broad rounded top through open forest. It's always hard to tell at this point if you are going to hit the spur, but it forms up nicely and I'm soon descending. It's a slightly tricky line I've chosen but I manage ok and am soon nearing the valley floor. There doesn't seem to be any ground trial as such.
The sound of a helicopter filters down the valley and I have two thoughts - some buggers will have nabbed the two bunks in the hut, and they'll probably head down river for an evening shoot.
As I scramble down to the bush edge I periodically let loose a loud whistle which I keep up until I get to the hut.
At almost 3.30 it's taken a while to get here. The river is at normal flow and is somewhat nippy. There's no avoiding wet feet from multiple crossings, and a couple of chilly, bullock-deep wades. No swims but.
There are frequent deer prints in the gravel but no people prints.
The sun has long gone out of the valleys and it's getting cooler but still well light when I turn up the East Waitewaewae branch. A few more whistles and I am relieved to arrive at an empty hut about 4.10pm - I won't be getting the fly out after all.
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| Forks near Island Forks Hut |
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| Island Forks Hut |
I'm a bit cold so settle into my sleeping bag and spend the remainder of the afternoon reading the log, doing crosswords and banging my head on the low bunk.
The hut is small enough to look a little like a large dolls house. It's tidy, serviceable and getting a bit of use, although there are often gaps of months between visits. The log is a mix of DOC staff checking track tunnels, counting birds etc, hunters, hut baggers and other explorers. There's a couple of notes in the log about Mick Creek being a bit unpleasant so I change my plan for the morning to take the spur on the down stream side of it, and note this in the log.
I ignore the alarm and have a bit of a sleep in getting away at 7.55 with the sun touching the top of the hills.
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| East Waitewaewae below hut |
There's a few wades but nothing problematic on the way up to Island forks - about 15 minutes away.
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| Island Forks Island |
It's a little dim at the forks so my photos are again poor quality - but the junction is clear and I'm soon wandering up the West Waitewaewae.
I'm keeping an eye out for the side streams that will mark my spur and mistakenly count a small unmarked creek, so start up the wrong spur. I have a feeling it might be wrong so keep an eye on the compass - sure enough it starts veering the wrong way. A sharp drop into a creek and scramble up the other side wastes a bit of time but has me back on course.
I reach the spur on a large flat plateau in tall forest. There's a DOC biodiversity marker for Island Forks 9. I take my time ambling up through generally pretty open forest - it's pleasant work for a still spring morning.
The risk I am taking with this spur is that it will end in a band of leatherwood. But it stays open pretty much to the top - however as I pop out at the crest I discover I'm on a wee knob short of the ridge - with leatherwood in between. A strategic retreat and sidle left sees me at the ridge proper around 10.40 without the expected battle.
The foot trail from Mick to 975 runs along here. A(nother) bearing on Tangata Maunga confirms I am where I planned to be. I take a long break while I try to get a text out (there's coverage but it wouldn't send) - probably leaving the ridge a little after 11.
The success of this morning's navigation makes me a bit gung-ho so instead of popping along the ridge to a bit of a spur, I just barrel off the side - into slimy leatherwood then steep slippery slopes that keep dropping into precipitous creeks choked with rotten logs.
I keep a course that drifts left and down valley and eventually the slope eases and I'm ambling along a terrace in reasonably open bush. It ends abruptly requiring a bit of a scramble to the stream bed.
The stream here is typical Tararua foothill headwaters but relatively benign. I don't see much sign of people until lower down the valley. As I potter south the valley opens and the sun streams in.
Marking progress in streams is generally a bit tricky - your normal pace is much slower with the frequent crossings and scrambles, the map doesn't show all the bends, and it's often hard to tell if a side stream is one that is marked on the map or not. With this in mind I don't have high expectations of keeping an accurate location.
Top of mind is not being caught out by dark while in the stream or before crossing the slip. I'm thinking at the worst it could be five hours to get to Saddle Creek - consequently, it's a lunch pause rather than a lunch stop.
However, the going is surprisingly good. Lots of crossings of course but no swims and only a few scrambles to avoid deeper pools. The biggest hassle is the slippery rocks.
Further down valley there are frequent terraces where you can romp along and cut out bends. There appears to be a bit of human traffic and I'm surprised not to see rubbish. I had thought there might be logging machinery and tracks but if there are I missed them.
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| Waitatapia Stream |
At 3pm I figure I'm getting close to Saddle Creek. There's a point where the river is carving into the bank and is within metres of breaking through into a significantly new course. It turns out to be about seven minutes upstream from Saddle Creek. It would be interesting to see how this pans out.
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| Not much bank left |
At about 3.15 my stacked stones from yesterday confirm I've reached Saddle Creek, although it is the largest tributary so not so hard to spot anyway. It's double pleasing to have my location correct and to have got down from the ridge quicker than I had feared.
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| Not really a cairn |
Angling up through the bush I find some swamp and healthy supplejack before stumbling on to the track for a breather and a snack. Just the one hurdle to go.
A bit after 4pm I'm standing at the end of the track on the edge of the chasm. From this angle the idea of working your way across the top of the slip looks insane. You'd be minced if you slide down through that.
There's an old trail that works up beside the edge. This eventually runs out and I bash up to find the route I came down yesterday. Looking carefully there are supplejack stems cut short long ago which give a path of least resistance - the only trouble is that these have a tendency to take you to where the top of the slip used to be.
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| Second slip |
Eventually the cut ends lead me across above the slip and to a large tree - the going gets tricky again but I find a bit of trail through kiekie which drops steeply down to the crumbly bank I came up yesterday.
Now it is just the familiar walk out in the late afternoon sun. I take a pause at the swing bridge to admire the calm and unusually clear Otaki River - tiny rings of disturbance mark where trout are rising to hoover bugs off the surface.
There are fresh footprints on the track but I don't see anyone until I catch up with a couple of day walkers avec dog on the last flats - the first people since leaving the carpark.
Back at the car it's Just after 5pm - a bit over 9 hours from Island Forks by an interesting and varied route.
Post script
Altogether too long a break away from the hills.The slip just keeps getting bigger - at some stage it might be easier to drop to the river. I would advise not trying to go across the face of the slip until you've had a look at the fall out zone at the bottom. There are trails up and down the side but not so much towards the top and you need to keep your eyes peeled. It's quite a scramble in places but still the best option.
I think I'm getting better at the ridge line. The trail isn't always easy to follow but if you cast around there is often an easier way waiting to be found. As always, navigating up is way easier than down. The spur down was fine - I suspect most of the spurs south of 975 on the east side would be much of a muchness - it's just a question of choosing one that suits.
The Waitewaewae is perfectly navigable but I would be cautious if the flow is likely to be up.
Island Forks Hut - a nice wee hut that doesn't get much sun. Mind your head.
I have a soft spot for the Waitewaewae headwaters - it feels like the wilderness, despite a lot of biodiversity activity going on.
Mick Stream - looks ok on the map but apparently a bit grovelly. Spur up was pretty good but don't make the same mistake as me finding the bottom.
Dropping into the Waitatapia headwaters - in retrospect I should have headed along the ridge in one direction or t'other to find a bit of a spur. An option is one of the saddles either side of the knob by Mick - you might even avoid the leatherwood. It's was a fairly short bit of unpleasantness though.
I liked the Waitatapia - it gets better further down and some of the flats would make for lovely camping. Real potential for an adventurous day trip from Otaki Forks but don't forget to factor the slip in.
