Niell Ridge; Tararua ranges

Unfinished business: Niell Ridge

22 December 2012, Tararuas
Solo

In the middle of the southern Tararuas there is an enticing route that leads up to (or down from) Mt Hector. It fulfils all the necessities of a great shortcut: it looks like it should be quicker than other routes; it isn’t as well travelled as the traditional Southern Crossing and it promises unusual views as it traverses some interesting landscape.

This had been my thinking in June 2012 when a trip from Waiohine up Bull Mound, across the Southern Crossing to Kime for the night was supposed to have been followed by an exit down Neill Ridge to Waiohine. Things went well until high winds, clag and a detour down the wrong spur resulted in a “discretion before valour” decision to beat a retreat back over the Southern Crossing with an unplanned night in Cone Hut.

Incidentally, this was the same day that the club trip up Neill, after heading a fair way along the tops, very sensibly decided that you would have to be insane to be pottering about up there so backtracked and bivvied for the night. A hunter I met in Cone Hut that night got as far as poking his nose out of the bushline before reaching the same conclusion.

This time, the plan was to go up Neill (on the theory that it would be harder to get lost going up), then assess options and possibly head along the main range to Maungahuka returning to Waiohine via Neill Forks the next day. The weather forecast wasn’t great, promising showers but warm temperatures and light winds.

Leaving the road end at 0615 the sun is probably up but is hidden by the rain coming down. There are no views to be had so it’s straight up Cone reaching the top around 0830. Here the sign pointing up Neill Ridge causes a bit of a pause: 6 to 9 hours to Mt Hector. This is somewhat longer than I had estimated but at worst it means a night at Kime which is already noted as an option on my intentions sheet.

Under the bush, the track along the ridge is reasonably easy to follow and quite well marked. The rain keeps up but it is warm enough not to bother with a coat (yet). It is quite up-and-down providing a reminder that a 39m climb may only show as a one contour line change on the map. The bush is stunted, mossy goblin forest, showing the effects of regular assault and battery from the north.

The bush eventually fades behind for the climb up Winchcombe Peak (sparing a thought for my club colleagues’ uncomfortable night). On the tops, the wind has come up, visibility is less than 50m and dropping and it’s easy to miss the easiest route. At the top of Winchcombe there are no visual clues which way the track drops off but a pause and compass check makes sure I head the right way through the gloom.

The next section has some steep sharks’ teeth to navigate before the climb up to 1398m. Here I work out where I missed the route coming in the opposite direction last time and push on to Mt Hector. It’s a relief when the memorial looms out of the clag and I turn right to take the well-worn track to Kime arriving a little after 1pm.

The lingering effects of a cold has me feeling wrung out and scuppers any thoughts of heading up the main range. I decide to stay put and reassess in the morning. Later in the afternoon the sun breaks through periodically and Kime is more pleasant than I’ve seen it before. As the only human resident, it’s a quiet night.

In the morning, still feeling less than 100% I elect the most direct exit to the road end leaving a little before six. The sun rises over Hector and although the valleys are a sea of cloud, the tops are crisp and clear. A pause at the top to text the changed intentions then a left turn to look down Neill Ridge. The contours previously staggered over in impenetrable clag are bare to the sky.

The walk along the ridge is a completely different experience. The features of the main range march in sequence across the view to the north; the Southern Crossing curves to the south west and in the east, cloud to the horizon hides the Wairarapa. Looking down, there are many alpine plants flowering (mainly white, suggesting moth pollination?) and the sides of the ridge drop steeply into the Hector and Tauherenikau catchments.

The path is generally easy to follow but a few minutes are spared to place a cairn where it might have been helpful first time around.

Below the bush line the roller coaster track soon revives the fatigue of yesterday and the valley cloud rises to 1000m, spilling through Neill Saddle. Despite the thin cloud it’s pleasantly warm and pleasantly not raining. My 2L camelback runs dry at the top of the last drop into the Waiohine and arriving at the park just before 1pm the spare bottle in the car is very welcome.

Post script

Neill Ridge is a little gem. It is exposed with some clambering required so can be exciting in the wind. There are one or two points particularly coming down where you can get mislaid in poor visibility so best to be with someone that has done it before. Just east of Neill there is a route down to Neill Forks which someone has marked with plastic ribbon – don’t start following these unless you want a somewhat longer trip.

Taupo Cycle Challenge

Taupo Cycle Challenge

24 November 2012; 153 km

Solo (but staying with Iona, Helen and Andrew2 (riding) and Col and Mandy (not riding))

Most running or cycling events have their own attraction but I’ve never really understood those people that feel the drive to turn up at the same event year after year. Taupo is a little different though, mainly because it’s a fun weekend away with Iona, Col and friends, but it is also iconic (i.e. a great ride, good scenery and well organised).

The story so far …

Iona has done the event more than a handful of times and it sounded like a good day out in 2010 when there was space in their unit for an extra body so I thought I would give it a crack. There was sufficient warning to get a fair bit of training in but then I was silly enough to do the ride on a mountain bike. Admittedly it had aero bars, slicks and I’d removed all superfluous weight (including mud); but it was heavy and resulted in a fairly modest finish time. Still, there is some quiet satisfaction to be gained when you manage to overtake someone on a road bike.

The next year I was toying with going again but a work trip overseas intervened. On returning, three weeks before the race, it was a toss-up whether the necessary level of fitness could be achieved in the time available. However, there was a brand new road bike in the garage so the decision was made that if I could survive a loop over the Akatarawa’s, Paekakariki hill and Ngauranga then I would give it a crack. It turned out I could, so I did.

By the third time, you would think the; it’s-a-good-idea-to-start-training-early penny would have dropped. However it wasn’t to be. Training for the Abel Tasman run then a couple of week’s holiday in Australia meant that it was four weeks out before the road bike got dusted off. The test this time was a 115 km route from Wellington to Tawa via Makara, Moonshine, Whitemans valley and Haywards. Having survived this, an ad-hoc training schedule ensued including a couple more similar rides and riding up Belmont before breakfast for a couple of weeks. This plus a base level of running fitness would have to be enough to get by.

There was also something to prove. Year one was on a MTB so the time wasn’t flash; year two was horribly windy and arriving late for the start meant starting a long way down the chute and completing the ride with slower riders and no useful bunch riding. This year, I aimed to beat the previous time by selecting the appropriate start group (based on expected time) and turning up bright and early.

Getting there …

Extraction from Wellington on a Friday is generally hectic. Normally it is just the Friday traffic and work stuff. This time it is sad to be attending a friends mother's funeral in the morning. However, once the final work commitments are dispensed with I'm free to slap the bike on the rack for the drive north.

The trip is easy going. A brief stop at Foxton to support a friend's sister's cafe, a chat to the police in Taihape (a gentle warning to get supplementary plates as the bike obscures the one on the car); then comes that moment north of Taihape when Ruapehu suddenly bursts into view. It seems unlikely that a mountain can creep up on you but this one does. The day is summer but the mountain is most definitely still winter.

The volcanic plateau is reflecting the gold of the late afternoon sun and the volcanoes lurk spectacularly in the corner of the driver’s eye. There’s a bit of cloud about so it is not possible to tell if Tongariro is still giving off steam after its eruption earlier in the week. There is a whiff of sulphur in one of the gullies but that could be from a more local thermal area.

From Turangi the route joins the final 50 km of the cycle loop. This is an opportunity to study the road and work out where to “pop some gel” tomorrow. The car drifts up Hatepe hill a little more easily than the bike will and I’m in Taupo around 8 pm.

The Acapulco Motel is home for the weekend again. It’s more expensive then we need but very comfortable and the rooms have large spa baths with all the bells and whistles (including disco lights). Iona's friend Helen is doing two laps this year so she and Mandy head to bed early to be up for the 1.30 am race start. She plans to stop in for a rest and feed and Iona will join her for the second loop, sometime between 8 and 9.

On your marks …

Helen has disappeared quietly in the night whilst the rest of us get up at a more civilised hour and quietly go through our own routines. I’m down at the start by 7.30 and have an hour to wait before my group sets off. The morning is cool so I stand in a patch of sun in the chute trying not to think about toilets.

This is the time for ticking off final mental check lists although it’s a bit late if anything has been forgotten. Shirt pockets contain a light jacket, banana, three gels, a one square meal; and on the bike: 2 tubes, repair kit, pump and two water bottles (one with electrolyte). Let’s hope it’s enough.

A former work colleague turns up and we chat briefly. He is a local cyclist and, as well as training on these roads, has done the ride before so pushes up the chute to get into a faster bunch.

And they’re off …

This year I have a simple plan; go out a little harder and try to get some early bunch riding. I bear my mental teeth in anticipation. But from the start it is apparent that I am still a little too far back down the grid. The first part of the course climbs gently but consistently and there is a bit of wind but not too bad. The bunches form but tend to be too slow and break up on the hills. Still, there is enough to lighten the load a little.

There's the usual mix of experience amongst the riders with some making bunch riding very difficult with unpredictable riding styles. Many riders however are pleasant to be around. Around the 40 km mark, head down and in a world of my own: a voice suddenly says from over my shoulder; “you’re on fire!” There is a moment of confusion during which a sluggish mind drags itself back to reality; what could be burning? How did it happen? Do I need to do something?? The voice enlightens me: “you’re cracking along; I’ve been bludging off you for miles!” I reply that I may just call in the favour and he obliges good naturedly.

A number of such alliances form and dissolve along the way but all the way down the spine of the lake any bunch that forms founders on the next hill.

The day is starting to warm up and despite the gentle to firm wind I no longer feel envious of riders that have shirtless sleeves as well as sleeveless shirts (apparently they’re called arm-warmers).

By the way there are a few sobering reminders; an ambulance scrambles past or a drink bottle suddenly appears on the road out of the bunch in front. Bikes lurch, people point and the cry goes up “bottle!” I’m guessing it wouldn’t be fun to catch a front wheel on one. There are also an alarming number of riders repairing punctures.

From about 70 to 90 km there is little bunch riding occurring due to a bit of wind and the last of the real hills. However, after the Waihi down-hill-scream, everyone knows it is basically flat for a long time so cyclists start flocculating into large clumps. This is the first time I have really ridden any distance in a peloton and although it eases the load it is a little intimidating. There is only one moment when I really think someone is going to cause one of those Tour de France style mash ups.

The bunch clips along to Turangi then I take a turn at the front from the SH1 corner. The buggers are quite happy to tag along without sharing the load though, and when we eventually catch another group I get boxed in and soon find myself at the back. There's a lesson in there somewhere.

As already stated, I am not an experienced group rider but have discovered a few things: don’t get stuck behind someone that varies their speed or line (e.g. stands up to stretch their bum or wobbles as they extract goodies from their pockets); if you’re leading and pull up to a slower group, pull wide early unless you want to get boxed in as everyone else streams past; if you’re on the left of an inexperienced bunch you pretty much lose control over your destiny; if people don’t take turns at the front the whole thing slows down …

Anyway, it’s good to ease off in the pack for a while but it’s not quite fast enough so I figure I’ll bide my time then get in with any bunch that breaks away on the Hatepe hill. However, at the first rise around the bluffs the bunch slows a little too much and impatience wins. I nip up the inside, off the front and knock on alone taking the chance for a drink and (at the predetermined point) to suck down a sachet of gel; euphemistically labelled “Lime.” It has the consistency of KY jelly and is relentlessly sticky if you get it anywhere but in your mouth. But it does contain sufficient sugars and other substances to give a boost and stave off the cramps. By now the pelaton has dropped out of sight behind and various landmarks herald the Hatepe Hill.

A few words about Hatepe …

The Hatepe hill is etched in the chronicles of the race. It is not particularly high or steep but it stands on its own and riders often get there in the heat of the day. Being wide and open it has a curiously depressing psychological effect and there are always a few people trudging up with their bikes.

The day is hot and sunny now but I fool myself that the gel is having the advertised effects and crank my way upwards. Near the top you come across the other oddly depressing thing about Hatepe; it doesn’t seem to want to stop, the slope eases and eases and at some indeterminable point it is first slightly flat and then slightly downhill.

The final stages …

From the top you know it's about 20 km to the end and there are only a few small obstacles to overcome. Unfortunately there are no bunches forming so it’s a question of picking off solos and pairs, resting briefly before chasing the next. An Australian keeps company for a while and provides some welcome respite.

The road takes a long easy roll off the top of the hill (oddly it always seems to be a head wind here) then plunges suddenly down to the lake. Aussie and I clip along but the bunch in the distance seems to be doing the same speed. Figuring they'll slow on the airport rise, a bit of effort is applied and sure enough, the stragglers are there to be mopped up on the rise and a large bunch forms as riders drop down into town.

Now there are only two small rises to go and riders abandon any pretence of allowing cars to pass. At the first rise, the bunch slows just enough to slip into the front third for the run up to the next. This is the time to keep well clear of the left. There’s just enough space to squeeze up the yellow middle lines and pull to the front at the brow. There is a little confusion with some slower bikes and I don’t look to see if anyone is on my tail as we head down to the water front.

It seems an awfully long way along motel-mile to the finishing straight. Not keen to be sucked back into the mess of bikes, it is time (as they say) to “leave it all on the road.”

The last few features of the ride flick by: the tiny rise on the water front; increasing numbers of people cheering the riders; the first of the shops; the start of the crowd barriers; the right angle bend into the finishing straight; a bus … “What the #$@%?” … it just manages to lumber out of the way, then it’s the last few hundred meters and, not a moment too soon; the timing strips. The crowd is gratifying generous with its applause for all riders.

The aftermath …

I never quite get used to that little period at the end when you realise it’s all over. There’s the mix of emotions whilst you run the physical checks to see if you’re going to be sick, collapse or otherwise embarrass yourself. Fortunately all systems are go, so I grab some pineapple and an ice block. Someone from Dad’s church introduces himself (Harris?) and I hope that I have observed the necessary social niceties (and that I hadn’t cut him off in the pack).

Taking stock; I’ve eaten half a one-square-meal, a banana, a gel pack and drunk about 1.4L. Not really enough and lucky it was cold for the start. Next time I might carry a little more water; maybe get one of those back-of-seat double bottle holders.

I find the long way back to the motel (i.e. take a wrong turn); fill up the spa bath and stretch cramping legs amongst the bubbles. Mick Jagger urges me to get offa his cloud and I text my satisfaction to all in sundry.

Being the earliest to start I have plenty of time to get clean and wrinkly before Iona texts; firstly that they are at Licorice café (40ish Ks to go) and finally that they’re back.

Helen pulls in and is surprisingly chipper; you wouldn’t think she had even gone around once. However, that is a story that Iona should tell. So over to her …

Iona and Helen’s story …

Helen and I set off at a time unfortunately unremarked by either of us. Dropping in to the Caltex for Helen to swipe her transponder, we proceed round the back streets to join the course at the roundabout on SH1 (or is it still SH1 now that there’s a bypass?).

Helen’s feeling fresh after a shower and breakfast despite having cycled since 1.30am, with only a stop at Turangi for coffee and a banana smoothie (courtesy of Mandy’s delivery service). Having seen the sky lighten as she negotiated Waihi hill, she had the pleasure of sunrising lake views as she powered up the lake side for her first shot at Hatepe.

Now she’s keen to get some miles under the tyres before we hit the main crowds. It’s pretty clear going as we miss any start groups on the first hill and head west past groups of excitable kids and a strange selection of red-clad cheerleaders, obviously from one workplace- maybe it’s their community service plan? The enduro and relay riders take a slightly longer route so we enjoy the relative solitude and the cool morning air on the hills that take us to the highest point of the course in its top western corner. I even have a chance to take the lead for some of the distance.

Re-joining the main route just past the first relay transition we come across the first of many slow bunches and Helen’s impressive overtaking skills come to the fore. Shaming everyone with her yellow enduro cap, she pushes through and past them on every hill, and skims round the outside on the downhills. I can keep up with her easily enough but it requires constant concentration keeping an eye on where she’s up to whilst avoiding the back wheels and wild conversational wobbles of those directly in front of me.

One of the things that makes Taupo such an entertaining ride is the social encounters on the way round. Everyone’s labelled with their name (or at least the one they’ve chosen for the ride) and their domicile. It’s hard to resist the temptation to cry out “George Bryant! Fancy seeing YOU here!” as you pass random strangers. One chap asks if I’m related to Aidan but doesn’t’ want to pursue the conversation further…wonder what THAT’s about?! Helen tries to engage a man riding the same model bike as her in a conversation about it and he resolutely resists engagement. She has more success with a couple of her enduro colleagues, their yellow caps bobbing in companionable unison.

Wishing to avoid the chaos of the halfway transition, we stop in at the drink station just prior to it. Mild chaos reigns, but it’s a quick pit stop to shovel in bananas and pee in the as-yet tolerable portaloos. This spot is famous for our sighting last year of Buck Shelford cruising in then falling over before getting his feet free.

Whizzing by the transition point is made more enjoyable by the slight anxiety about inept relay riders launching themselves like wilderbeests into the fray. Waihi hill is a breeze for Helen the second time round and I lose her near the top. It’s a great run down, with few riders to impede my no-brakes descent. On the flat I annoy an Australian with the noise of my pannier bag and he drops behind to avoid it. The bag has been a source of great amusement to many, getting nearly as many comments as Helen’s enduro status…comments she is well tired of, to the point of considering removing it.

A short breather before the final dash …

The licorice café is a welcome sight; Helen has just started on her coffee having texted Mandy in advance, and mine’s waiting on the table. Andrew2 (Helen’s brother) turns up on his bike soon afterwards and we re-slather ourselves in sunscreen while shovelling coffee and all available food items in. A quick visit to the salubrious loos and we’re off again.

Andrew2 has been tasked with dragging Helen for the last 40 km into Taupo. This soon proves to be needless as Helen starts zipping past any bunch in her way….and there are many. We lose Andrew2 and I manage to keep up by imitating Helen and keeping a weather eye out for vehicles coming up behind. Just before Hatepe I let her go and cruise in the shade of the gum trees while cooling my head.

The hill has its usual littering of walking cyclists and others swerving all over the lane having made ill-advised gear changes. I contemplate asking the Pedal Pushers guys at their usual position halfway up the hill how far ahead Helen is, but am distracted by Andrew2 passing me with a cheery comment. I wish him luck in catching his sister.

Just over the crest of that crest-less hill, Col and Mandy are waving from their park on the side of the road. It’s all pretty much downhill from here but for the seventh year in a row the wind prevents a speedy trip down Hatepe. I manage to get up to 62km/hr but not without having to pedal furiously. The bikes are more spread out now, and it’s easy to pass the single file as we thread into the town and along the waterfront.

A certain camaraderie arises among the riders (at least those that can still speak), and yet again I’m left wondering if I should have perhaps made some effort to “leave it all on the road.” Nah, I like the fact that I can enjoy the views of the lake as the road leads down and round the corner into the chute of shouting. The others are still eating their ice-blocks and I join them with my pineapple before we wend our way through the crowds and back to the hotel.

The shower is somehow more tempting than the whirlpool bath with coloured lights and music, but I think I use just as much water as I try and prise off the layers of sunscreen and sweat. What a great feeling! I make sure to tell Col that if I even mention riding around twice next year, she must remind me that I should not do it….once is enough, and once is a wonderful ride.

Postres …

It’s a happy bunch that convenes for venison stock pot, custard, fruit and a single malt or two after. Bragging rights of course go to Helen, what a legend.

Naturally, bed time is early and most of us have one of those too-knackered-to-sleep-well nights.

The next morning starts early for those that want to watch the rugby. Then we convene at Replete café for what has become a traditional breakfast. The advance guard of one arrives in time to nab the best table and squats there nursing a cup of coffee and glowering at potential table-nappers until the others show up.

All over for another year and the trip home passes quickly: new socks in Taihape, coffee and slice in Foxton and some Swazi tops in Otaki. Finally, a quick nip over Paekak hill with no slow traffic.

Next year? Each year so far I’ve said “maybe” and ended up deciding to go near the last minute. The trouble is that with advancing decrepitude the chance of paring back my time looks slim. Still with a bit more training and a better start bunch … maybe I will come back in 2013.

For the record; my times so far …

2010: 6 hr 07 (MTB)

2011: 5 hr 33 (Windy)

2012: 5 hr 08 (no excuses)

Abel Tasman Coastal Challenge

Abel Tasman Coastal Challenge

28 September 2012, Running event, Abel Tasman
Andrew and Richard

The Abel Tasman Coastal Challenge is a one day event taking a limit of 300 runners from Awaroa Inlet to Marahau following the impossibly gorgeous coastal track. Track conditions are excellent and the event is well organised by the Nelson Striders (the web site is under the banner ‘Nelson Events’). The distance varies depending on who you talk to, but is about 36km. This may change as there is a rumour that they will run a longer route next year. There is an option for supporters to take a boat trip to walk the last 14km from Torrent Bay.

Being a late initiate into running and quickly finding tarmac to be a little tedious, heading off-road was inevitable. A cursory web search reveals that there are an ever-increasing choice of intimidating but spectacular events. Richard, an old college mate and companion on various hare-brained adventures in our youth requires no encouragement.

Unfortunately, our first attempt founders with the cancellation (after we’d trained up) of the 2011 Tararua Mountain Race, due to SARs resources being required for the second Christchurch earthquake. It’s a while before our affairs coincide sufficiently for a repeat attempt and it is the Abel Tasman that catches the eye. A training schedule is drafted up and largely ignored as we try to fit a few ‘hit outs’ around work, family and winter weather.

We take the Friday morning ferry and have a leisurely trip to Marahau via the Slip Inn Havelock (try the seafood chowder) and the Sprig and Fern (takeaway riggers of good craft beer). Friends have booked a house in Marahau just around the corner from the registration point so we have a very relaxed evening in which to savour the ‘riggers’ of pre-race nerves.

The organisation on the day is seamless. At 7am we register at Marahau, board a bus to Kaiteriteri then a scenic boat ride to Awaroa. The morning is cool, but sunny as we study our map and the passing coastline to get a feel for what the next few hours will bring.

There’s a short walk from the boat to the starting point on the Awaroa airstrip with a few competitors being taken aside for random gear checks. The compulsory gear feels very modest compared to the average Tararua day pack. A few duck into the lodge to use the facilities and here we must offer a thought to the punter whose race ended when he tripped and tore something vital while exiting the loo.

As the field lines up and warms up, we acknowledge the Royals of the event; these are the three gentlemen who have competed every year since the race’s inception. Truly impressive; we speculate about how none of them could possibly consider being the first to miss a year, and whether the last man standing wins a car.

Under starters orders ... (note the two fine specimens mid-photo)

The horn goes and the pack sets off down the airstrip with yahoos and cheers. Those in the know put on a bit of pace in order to beat the queue that forms where the track narrows to single file.

This is one of our great walks so there is beautiful bush with view windows opening over secluded golden beaches and an emerald sea. There are mossy waterfalls, granite outcrops and at times the track meanders through cool bush along a bench cut at the water's edge. However, our focus is less on the aesthetics and more on the two meters of track ahead.

Support during the race is good and the most obvious wrong turns are marked. Supporters, volunteers, and residents appear at various points throughout the event to bolster spirits and provide water and snacks. The day is calm and sunny but the air stays blessedly cool under the canopy.

The track is mostly well packed and of gentle grade varying between 0 and about 150m, but there a lot of ups and down and a few steep sections to keep you on your toes. Things potter along well until Torrent Bay; 14km from the end. This is where we start to pay the price for a somewhat casual approach to training.

The last 10km are unrelenting; Richard’s Achilles is playing up and it is hard to judge progress amongst the trees. Each gentle rise sucks a little more from depleted reserves and the last few kilometres are interminable. We are not the only ones feeling the burn; the track is littered with souls who may have started the day at a slightly optimistic pace.

Still running ... just.

At the line I have nothing left and the first overwhelming emotion is absolute relief. It takes a few minutes to get around to feeling satisfaction at coming in under our 4 hour target; quickly followed by guilty relief at getting away with a somewhat slack training regime. It’s a few hours before cockiness sets in and we start contemplating what the next event might be.
 

The organisers provide pineapple at the end, a subway lunch then a generous meal in the late afternoon before prize giving. While the winning times are impressive (the overall winner is in our 40 - 49 age group so we didn’t stand a chance!), the highlight is the acknowledgement given to the oldest finisher. At 82, after well over 5 hours on his feet his standing ovation is well deserved; what a legend.

 

 

 

Comments

No regrets and a great deal of enjoyment. I am very pleased to have been part of this event. At $195 it feels quite expensive but you get: a unique run, scenic boat trip, support during the run, lunch and dinner... and a bunch of priceless memories.

There are limited entries so book early for the run and accommodation. Having accommodation nearby and a good group to share it with was fantastic. We left a car at the race end which meant a quick shuttle back to our accommodation.

The race website left a bit to be desired, and they didn't offer a decent topo map of the course, however the organisation on the day more than made up for it. If you’re like me and want to be able to visualise the route, it would pay to get the Topo map and talk to someone that has done it to identify exactly where the track goes. DoC and others have contour graphs of the coast but not all of them follow the same route (e.g out of Torrent Bay).

The time of year means the weather isn’t too hot but you are training through winter. Do a fair amount of hill training; although the route only climbs to about 140m, it bounces up and down throughout the race and by the time you reach Torrent Bay the legs are feeling it. It’s not like running over a mountain where you know it’s all downhill at the end.

As with any longish off road event, unless you’re fit and experienced, I suggest getting advice and planning your training, gear, hydration and nutrition carefully. Knowing the course is an advantage, especially in the final stages where the run through the bush seems to go forever.

Finally, there are limited pre-race loo opportunities so get into the queue on the boat early!

Mt Reeves Run

Mt Reeves Run

Sunday 10 June 2012
Solo training run

When I say 'run' there was a bit of walking on some of the steep bits I'd have to admit.  This was a training trail run getting a bit of a test on hills and knocking off a track I hadn't been on before.  As it was one of my early attempts at solo trail running I paid a bit of attention to distances and times and kept some notes about gear etc.

Summary

Distance is 22 km based on DoC estimate at track end (11Km and 4½ hrs tramping time to Tutuwai hut); start elevation about 135m; maximum 899m; forecast for a mostly clear day, some scattered cloud and a front coming through late in the day. Day stayed clear despite ominous clouds spilling over Neill Ridge; little wind.

Depart car: 0820. Arrive top: 0945. Depart top 0955. Arrive Tutuwai: 1020. Depart Tutuwai: 1043. Arrive top: 1130. Depart top: 1135. Arrive car: 1240.  4hr20 total. 3.42 on the go (1hr25 up, 25 down, 47 up, 1hr5 down). 38min of stops.

Finding it

Take the first left in Greytown (Challenge petrol station) follow your nose towards the railway station, cross the lines and turn right at the T. Potter along for 4ish Km to where it ends with a DoC sign board on a turn around area with some farm tracks leading off beside stock yards.  This is on the true right of the Waiohine River. 

The trip

Once you’ve done the track over to Sayer Hut, it’s just a matter of time until you pick off Mt Reeves. At 899m it’s the highest point on the ridge between the Tauherenikau, Wairarapa and Cone Saddle. The Topo map tells you it has got clearings at the top and is likely to have panoramic views of the Wairarapa as well as up into the Tararuas. And it doesn’t disappoint.

Driving over the Rimutaka Saddle the Wairarapa is cloudless and the sun starts to crack the horizon on the straight between Featherston and Greytown. A glance at the Topo map the night before is sufficient to navigate to the road end on the right bank of the Waiohine. At the end of a gravel road it has the feeling of being reasonably out of the way for leaving the car.

There’s a little bit of frost about; sufficient to want to stay in the car as long as possible getting ready, and to put gloves on for the start. There are no other cars about, which is a mild surprise as Tutuwai via Mt Reeves looks like an ideal weekend jaunt.

The track starts from the ‘car park’ (= turnaround bay) and follows a gravelled farm track for about a km and up 80m. An easily seen orange triangle and Doc sign points under an electric fence and up a paddock. A post in the middle indicates that you’re on the right track and stooping under the electric fence at the top (240m) is a good excuse to turn and look at the view across the winding Waiohine River towards Greytown, before disappearing onto a rough track up through the pines.

Track conditions are a bit messy for the first few minutes as the track cuts SW across a loose soil slope transiting from pines to native bush. From there, the track has a good rock base but the surface goes from slippery moss to slippery clay to slippery tree roots and, in the open parts, slippery rocks.

It’s a slow climb to the top as the track meanders around and up. Getting from 700m to 800m is particularly interminable. There are plenty of open sections which provide views requiring a passing glance (and pause for breath). A largish animal crashes away through the trees in a couple of spots, and a sign notes that the three wire bridge over Coal stream has been removed (I think this marks a route through to the bridge at the main Waiohine road end). The bush alternates between beech with mossy ground and open scrub patches. Finally the track decides to jump up to 899m.

Low scrub at the top allows views across the Wairarapa. To the west and north the peaks of the Southern Crossing disappear into cloud and the jagged profile of Neill Ridge is also shrouded at the top and looks thoroughly uninviting. Here, and in the Wairarapa, though, it is clear and sunny.

A quick text, and (out of mild interest) a short fossick in the scrub for a geocache, burns a few minutes at the top. As the going has been good, and the weather looks like it will hold in line with the forecast, the trip down to Tutuwai is on.

The track meanders west, along and down slowly for a little over half a km, through open scrub, then drops into the bush, and starts to descend. The descent is easy for a while so a reasonable speed is possible. So much so in fact, that as I come hurtling around a corner the leading lady in a group coming up the track shrieks in terror. They had apparently noted a pig wallow in the track and been following the culprit’s trit-trotting prints up the ridge. Heart rates are up all around.

Between 700 and 600m the slope eases then it drops steeply from 500m to emerge beside the hut at 300m.

A party of two women is booting up to head down to Kaitoke (and hopefully find their car); two other chaps are a bit slower, and are also heading out the same way. It’s a good excuse to stop for 25 minutes to have a chat, fill in the log book, have an OSM and drink, and look across the Tauherenikau River at the foot of the Marchant Ridge. The sky is clear and blue apart from the occasional cloud drifting over Marchant and dissipating in the sun. The roof steams as it heats in the morning sun.

But procrastination can only be spun out for so long. The 600m climb is not particularly inviting but has to be tackled. Running is not really an option now so it is first a bit of a ladder climb through the humus under the moist lower slope forest then into the easier going and less steep mossy beech then on and up through drier under-storey and finally the clay and rock on the upper slopes. The last half km in the sun to the top is a little slow.

At the top the three trampers are just about to get on their way again. They have been using mirrors to flash their friends down near Greytown (successfully). Their car is at the usual Waiohine road end and they are taking a track that runs down the Coal Stream catchment. It is not marked on my map but they say it is easy to follow. Sounds like a good round trip.

There’s not much more to be said about the trip down. Tired legs make the footing even more tricky but eventually the pines are behind and it’s some ginger picking down through the cattle churned paddock to the farm track and back to the car.

Track notes

It was easy to find the start. It’s a bit rough for the first wee while but at around 300m it develops into a solid track up the winding ridge which is easy to follow. There are occasional wind falls but nothing dramatic. A few boggy patches around the tops didn’t look like they would get too bad. The East side is a bit rougher due to the steepness and a few more windfalls but again is well formed and easy to follow.

Gear notes

Running in old cycle shorts, light merino top, off-road runners, cap and gloves at the start to maintain body temperature until warmed up. Rolled sleeves up and down depending on heat. Started to cool off at the top but not too bad. 4.7Kg Camel back: full water, 2 squeeze gel, 2 OSM, balaclava, running tights, gloves, jacket, 2nd light merino top, over trou, emergency kit, map, compass, cash, cell phone (good cover at top and probably for most if not all the trip up Eastern side).

Body notes

Felt the early signs of a cold coming on the night before but felt OK in the morning. Blisters from previous weekend were fine, bruised big toe joint still annoying but didn’t affect running. Managed to jog pretty much wherever track conditions made it possible; knees were fairly sore on the eastern (final) descent making it a bit exciting on the slippery surface. West side mostly too steep to jog but a good fast walk is possible on the way up. A bit of warning cramps from the back on a couple of stumbles.

Eating and drinking

Ate an OSM at Tutuwai; drank about half the water and although no problems it was probably not quite enough. Need to start sipping earlier!

Waiohine - Kime

Waiohine - Kime

2-4 June 2012; Queens Birthday





Solo

The Plan: A light tramp, with no extra kit and surviving on One Square Meal (OSM) bars. Head in from Waiohine car-park to Bull Mound via Cone Hut and on to Alpha hut; evaluate and head on for Kime hut for the night if going well, otherwise night over at Alpha. The next day head to Mt Hector and down Neill Ridge to Cone ridge then to Waiohine car-park via Cone saddle. Not quite what happened though…

Forecast: Good weather in the Wairarapa and Hutt; some showers from the northwest on the Kapiti coast. No weather warnings. But again, not quite what happened…

Saturday 2 June: Waiohine – Alpha - Kime

At 0740 the car is locked and it’s time to head up the ridge towards Cone Saddle (after noting a club van that must have arrived not long before). The morning is frosty and misty but cloudless and still.

The track climbs quickly the first 250m, meeting the dawn as it drifts down the ridge. The grade eases slowly up to 680m and after sometime there is a well posted turn west and down to Cone Hut, arriving at 0905, somewhat under DoC’s 2½ hr estimate.

There is only one river crossing today so it’s doesn’t take much to decide to remove boots and socks despite the hard frost in the Tauherenikau Valley. This gives dry feet for the trip up Bull Mound, 730m above the valley floor. There are patches of snow and ice on the hilltop bog as the track ducks in and out of Dracophyllum, leather wood and beech scrub. The Wairarapa is clear but Neill Ridge to the north is ominous; a hogs back cloud pushes up against the ridge from the north, spilling over into the upper Tauherenikau.

The track eventually dives back into the bush and drops precious meters only to climb again up out of Hells Gate. It is 1130 when Alpha Hut appears and the weather is starting to close in. Half an hour is enough to text home (I know there's coverage from previous experience), have a bite to eat, don a few more layers of clothes, and write a note in the log book. By now, any previous thoughts of going further than Kime hut have been dropped. The hut notice board says it’s 3-4 hrs to Kime and in this weather it would be foolhardy to commit to anything else.

A wiry, older Maori chap turns up. He is doing a one day from Kaitoke to Otaki and leaves Alpha a few minutes ahead. We trade the lead across the tops and it is a comfort to know that there is someone else about, particularly as he has done this route 4 times already this year.

On the tops the wind quickly gets up, the temperature drops and the extra layers are put to good use (although I should have taken a little extra time to drag out over mitts and adjust my new coat). Glasses are quickly rendered worse than useless and stashed in a pocket on the grounds that seeing everything fuzzily is better than seeing nothing clearly.  The track is mostly pretty easy to follow though and the other chap is in view much of the time.

The wind howls across the ridge from either side upsetting balance and occasionally throwing in sleet or freezing rain. The track wends over interminable knobs and peaks; at times covered in snow.  It is about an hour to the top of Aston and a sign saying 3-4 hrs to Kime; slightly demoralising given the same time estimate at Alpha Hut. As well as the driving rain, boots are soon soaked through from the ice encrusted puddles. Footing is invisible beneath the tussock which hides slick mud and sudden drop offs. The result is drunken lurching with the wind adding an unhelpful push at inopportune moments.

With head down and concentrating on the track ahead it is a pleasant surprise when the cross on Mt Hector appears in the snow. It’s a bit too miserable to spare more than a passing thought for the trampers killed in WWII. However on the other side the wind drops away and we head down through the mist, over Field Peak arriving at Kime at 1450. Here my nameless companion says goodbye, calls his transport, and sets off for Otaki forks. It will probably be dark by the time he gets there.

There are a few parties in the hut; a couple of Outdoor Pursuits women doing crosswords, a lone bloke and a party of youngish chaps. It’s cold inside without a fire, and the idea of drying clothes by wearing them is soon given up as a bad job. By 1700 the sleeping bags are out and it’s only a trip to the loo that will shift me. A chocolate OSM serves for dinner.

There's little wind here so the mist sits; the moon peeks fitfully through the clag but later in the night the wind comes up and showers of rain roll through. The temperature in the hut drops to about 5 degrees overnight but the new light weight sleeping bag holds up well.

Sunday 3 June: Kime – Alpha - Cone

The hut starts stirring at 0700. The single bloke is off first for Otaki forks. The two women are going to head for Elder Hut and the other party to Alpha Hut.

At 0820 the sopping, cold gear warms slowly on the way up Field Peak to Mt Hector. The wind and driving rain soon makes a nuisance of itself but the new coat performs well and it’s warm enough.

At Mt Hector, the start of the track to Neill Ridge is not obvious but there is only really one possible direction. The wind is fierce making it difficult to stand, let alone travel in a straight line. As the rounded top of Mt Hector gives way to a razor edged ridge it becomes easy to follow the route, although the track is not always that obvious. Once again the nuisance glasses are rendered opaque and consigned to a pocket (there is also a realistic fear that they will be whipped away).

The map doesn't show the myriad small knobs that adorn the ridge and in the flying, shredded cloud it is difficult to judge progress. Each knob clambered over gives way to another saddle with the wind howling through. Occasionally a small cairn passes within myopic range confirming the route.

Eventually, however it is apparent that there have been no cairns for a while and no signs of tracks in the tussock; it is time to stop and take stock in the lee of a boulder. Sure enough, the compass and altimeter confirm that the ridge being descended is heading in the wrong direction. The climb back up to the last cairn is depressingly steep.

Even there the next cairn is not to be seen and the lack of visibility makes it difficult to reconcile the map to the terrain. Where I think the track should go seems to drop off impossibly steeply (I find out later that it does). There is more than one option open so after a bit of dithering and a couple of unsure starts, discretion wins over valour, and the only guaranteed direction is selected – back to Mt Hector.

The wind is still blasting across the ridge and its very difficult regaining the lost meters so the sight of the cross at Mt Hector looming through the clag is (once again) welcome. Now it's just the Southern Crossing to contend with.

The wind and rain have put paid to most of the snow, but not the mud. Fortunately the track is largely easy to follow, so it’s head down and plug on. The up-hills are reduced to a trudge and finding secure footing is an ongoing niggle. The level of swearing at errant wind gusts, slips, and recalcitrant gear indicates that a level of fatigue is setting in.

Finally it is clear that the descent from Alpha has started and at long last the bush line heralds Alpha Hut around 1320. A couple have just come up from Tutuwai and are sheltering in their sleeping bags. It is not difficult to talk them out of considering the crossing to Kime. They provide a hot, sweet cocoa which helps immeasurably.

After putting a note in the look book and texting the changed intentions home (including the likelihood of an extra night out), it’s back into the bush a little before 1400.

It is pleasant and peaceful below the bush line and a reasonable rate is possible although the up-hills are still slow. The open areas on Bull Mound are windy and give a view of just how horrible Neill Ridge is. The track drops off the Mound into the bush again then it’s all downhill.

By a third of the way down, reaching the car-park before dark is looking highly unlikely. At the bottom, the river is up and a stick helps stability.  However the legs are pretty tired now and at 1600 Cone Hut is extremely welcome. With light already getting dim I decide to stay the night; wet gear is peeled off; dry clothes donned and it's straight into the sleeping bag.

A little after 1700 a hunter turns up; he plus dog have been up Cone Ridge and had nosed up Neill Ridge but rapidly decided it wasn't the place to be. He takes pity and provides a hot drink which finishes off the warming up process. Later I find out there was also a club trip that had intended to go up Niell Ridge but turned back because of the conditions on the tops and ended up bivvying out below the bush line.

The hunter chats as he eats and settles in for the night.  In the course of discussion the story comes out that last night he accidentally let a shot off in the hut while cleaning his rifle, much to the surprise of a father and 2 sons that were present. Fortunately he was pointing the gun up and out the door at the time. He says something about the safety having been knocked off and the first time it had occurred in 30 years of hunting.

Cone Hut has always been a hut seen en passant and barely spared a glance, with its dirt floor, rough sawn planks for the sleeping platform and appearance of rotting quietly into the landscape. However it is pleasant by candle light and comfortable even without a fire to warm it. From now on I will not hear a bad word about it.

An OSM for dinner washed down with water fills the stomach but the aches and pains are enough to keep sleep hovering. Enthusiastic snoring from the other side of the platform guarantees it. Jethro the dog is pretty well behaved except when he tries to change sleeping companions a couple of times during the night and has to be firmly discouraged.

Monday 4 June: Cone - Waiohine

A little before 6 a loud alarm goes off. The hunter goes through his morning routine and offers another brew as he gets his kit together for a dawn hunt, down the right bank towards block XVI. Jethro has had more then enough of sleeping and is ready to be up and about, although he apparently doesn’t assist with the hunt apart from in a moral support capacity.

By 0700 it is getting towards light enough, so an OSM for breakfast; a quick squeeze to get rid of the worst of the water; into kit and out the door.

At 0730 it's, light under the canopy and quiet; the ground is relatively dry. First off is a climb of a little over 300m which is done in half an hour, then a long traverse along the ridge before dropping into the Waiohine. White mist fills the Tauherenikau Valley as it drops behind, while in front the sun rises over Waiohine to filter horizontally through the trees. One foot is sporting a pressure bruise from a fold in the boot making it more of a hobble than a stride this morning.

It’s a relief to reach the car just after 9am; remove boots and hunt for the car key. It’s not far to Aidan and Janne’s for breakfast, shower, inspect the mangled feet then lunch.  OSMs are all very well but a bit of home cooking is very welcome after a weekend of them.

Gear Notes

Time for new boots; painful feet just aren’t necessary.  Also time to get disposable contact lenses, glasses are a hassle on the tops in bad weather.

The new Macpac 40L Torlesse pack is a good sized weekend-staying-in-huts bag. There are a few down sides: a pack that needs a rain cover is a bit of a nuisance; the top attachment for the cover is not great; the hip belt is a bit insubstantial and the “water proof” lining doesn’t look set to last. But it’s good value at $90.

My old gaiters pretty much disintegrated; they are literally on their last legs.

The new Hollyford, Event membrane raincoat performed well; a good solid shell and reasonably adjustable with a handy map pocket.

The Macpac Express light weight sleeping bag performs well with a layer of under clothes at 5 degrees in Kime hut.

Under-Armour leggings performed extremely well. Comfortable walking and beat off the wind and driving rain; get another pair.

DoC hut tickets are available at Featherston Mobil. They were open about 0700.

Mt Matthews run

Orongorongo: Mt Matthews Run

Saturday 26 May, 2012
Solo run

Another solo trail run as part of preparation for the Abel Tasman track in September.  I keep picking hills you can't run up though!

Summary

Distance 21+ km(?); 4hr 25. Start elevation about 50m; maximum 941m. Forecast for sun but high cloud developed quickly. A cool northerly was only really noticeable near the top.

Depart Catchpool car park 07.50. Trot through Orongorongo track then up the river bed to the junction with Matthew’s stream at 08.45. Arrive at the top approx 10.15 and potter about for about 10 minutes (after a pause on the way up to overlook the saddle). Return the same way; Matthew’s junction at 11.15 and car park at 12.15.

The trip

The Park gates open at about 07.40 so the last minute getting ready stuff is done in the car while waiting for the ranger. A few cars have been in the park overnight but no sign of life until three older gents turn up to maintain stoat lines.

As expected, no other souls are to be seen until returning down Mt Matthews (one chap wandering up). There are a few signs of life on the way down the Orongorongo River and a few groups of people walking in along the Orongorongo track near midday. Some wheeled traffic has been up the river bed recently and a ute is parked up near Big Bend.

The Orongorongo track is easy going; repairs are underway but nothing tricky. The river bed is also good going along the vehicle tracks. The morning sun clears the hills in a few places shining the length of the valley and requiring the peak of the cap to be kept low.

Turning into Matthew’s stream the rocks are more jagged, and the stream is clearly moving things around pretty actively, so more care is required with footing. The route runs up the creek then departs to follow a track up the ridge, at exactly the point marked on the map. The track up is generally pretty easy to follow.

It’s basically a scramble straight up with a brief 30m down hill around 400m. After that there’s the turn off to South saddle (around 550M) which is also the route to the south coast down Mukamuka stream. Shortly after, the track breaks out of the bush giving good views over the saddle, down to the Coast and across ridges and hills towards Wellington.

The track skips along the ridge briefly then ducks back into forest and keeps climbing. It’s still a fair way to the top from here. The approach to the top is through forest and there are a few false alarms. Don’t get excited until the track has dropped off the back of the ridge and approaches the top from the South via a not so old slip which has thrown trees and rocks into a jumble which you have to scramble through.

The views are good. After the clearing above the saddle there isn’t a lot to see until a view of the Wairarapa explodes in your face. A window opens through the tress and suddenly there is light reflecting off the Ruamahanga River; Lake Wairarapa peering around a ridge and somewhere in the distance across the flats; Martinborough and the Eastern Hills. Further along, there are views of Lake Onoke and the Coast as well as back towards Wellington.

The top is marked by a short steel pole behind a fallen tree. Next to it is a geocache; it’s just tied to the tree with no real attempt to hide it. Mind you, I don't think many people would want to lug an ammo box back down with them.

After admiring the view, firing off a text or two and taking a few photos on the phone it’s time to follow the foot prints home. The down hill requires considerable care and attention to avoid catching a toe and pitching face first over a drop off.

A search and rescue team are in the car park and look to be heading out for some practice. I’m earlier than expected so they’re not for me.

Gear notes

Running in old cycle shorts, light merino top, off-road runners, cap, gloves at the start to maintain body temperature until warmed up. Rolled sleeves up and down depending on heat during the scramble up. Started to cool off at the top but not too bad. Camel back: full water, 1 squeeze gel, 1 gel tube, 2 OSM, balaclava, UnderArmour tights, gloves, jacket, 2nd light merino top, over trou, emergency kit, cellphone (good cover at top and probably on most of the higher parts).

Body notes

Took an easy pace from the start and maintained it reasonably well, even at the end. Started getting pretty tired towards the top and needed a few pauses. Return trip down was fine though the short uphill at around 400m showed the stamina had dropped right off. The legs were pretty tired by the bottom but kept ticking over down the valley after a couple of minutes rest at the junction. Started to get a bit crampy and slow on the up hills along the Orongorongo track. Kept a reasonable pace through to the car park although not much to come and go on by the end and wouldn’t have been able to lift the pace at all.

Eating and drinking

Ate an OSM on the way to the top (starting around 650m) and finished a gel tube on the return: starting at the junction and finishing it at the halfway bridge – felt that it was very much needed. Drank about a litre and a half throughout; this wasn’t enough.

Felt knackered and old for the rest of the day and slept like a log that night (a log that wakes up and whimpers every time it rolls over).

Useful Information

Watch the opening and closing times on the park gates. DoC time estimate on the website is one day for fit trampers and on the park notice board is 10 hours.

Map:
http://www.topomap.co.nz/NZTopoMap?v=2&ll=-41.35186,175.014353&z=14

DoC track description:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/wellington-kapiti/wellington/mt-matthews/

Geocache
http://www.geocaching.com/seek/cache_details.aspx?wp=GC1BKN4

Orongorongo - McKerrow loop run

Orongorongo: Catchpool - McKerrow loop

Saturday 19 May, 2012

Solo


Another training run for the Abel Tasman.  And again a track that I had wanted to pick off at some point.

Summary

15km, about 2½ hr. Start elevation about 50m; maximum 706m. Definitely cool southerly; cloudy with occasional showers.

Depart Catchpool car park 2.30pm. 1/2 hr trot along Orongorongo track to McKerrow track. An hour to the top (with a short overshoot due to misreading the map; quickly rectified – it always pays to double check!). A bit under an hour down Clay Ridge and 1.8Km back to the car park along Five Mile Loop track (not Middle Ridge) by 4.55. Although there are cars in the car park the only other people to be seen are two workers with a digger on the Orongorongo track and a woman with two children.

The trip

The Orongorongo and Five Mile Loop tracks are highways; McKerrow more of a tramping track. It’s a steepish scramble in places but has trottable sections particularly above 500m. Rooty footing; lots of leaf humus so a bit slippery. There are boggy patches towards and at the top. Clay Ridge track joins from the west near the top (wooden post in middle of track). The top is unremarkable; a short steel post in the track under a high canopy. If you keep going, the track starts dropping with some clearings which give a view Northish over Wainuiomata (just visible through the rain and cloud).

Returning from the top, turn right to Clay Ridge; a largely gentle; joggable descent. Near the top a view West and North across Wellington harbour opens up: from the south coast to the Hutt hills. The southerly is pushing rain up the Wainui Valley and the sun breaking through over Wellington back-lights the scene. Later on the sun comes in under the cloud lighting up the Catchpool hills and throwing up a rainbow. Clay Ridge’s name isn’t explained until lower down where the typical yellow Wellington clay shows through.

All tracks are generally well cleared, sign posted and easy to follow – there are a few downed trees on Mt McKerrow and a couple of points where a marker isn’t readily visible; but generally it is pretty obvious.

Gear notes

UnderArmour tights, light merino top, off-road runners, cap. Marginal at top during showers. Camel back: 1 gel, 1 OSM, balaclava, gloves, jacket, poly jersey, over trou, emergency kit, headlight, cash, cellphone. Didn’t check cellphone for most of the trip but had good coverage at the top and got a text part way down Clay Ridge. Some calf cramps after the top were held at bay most of the way to the car park by a gel.

Useful Information

Watch the closing times on the park gates.

Map:
http://www.topomap.co.nz/NZTopoMap?v=2&ll=-41.331147,174.959759&z=14

DoC track description:
http://www.doc.govt.nz/parks-and-recreation/tracks-and-walks/wellington-kapiti/wellington/mt-mckerrow/

Papatahi Crossing: Catchpool to Wairarapa

Papatahi Crossing: Catchpool to Wairarapa

5-6 May 2012, Rimutaka Range
Andrew and Mike

I've always wondered about that lonely meandering track from the Orongorongo valley, that finishes in the unfashionable backwaters of the South-West Wairarapa.  Two of us took a look last month on the spur of the moment and find it well worthwhile.

The weather was cloudy (ceiling at about 800m) with light South-Easterlies both days. Scattered showers were predicted but none eventuated.

The trip starts as a Friday morning inkling. The forecast is settled and at least one of us has always intended, but never quite got around to knocking off this Rimutaka Range crossing.

We leave Catchpool at 10am on Saturday and it is easy going over the Orongorongo track and up the river to Papatahi Hut (about 3hrs). The hut is new and in fantastic condition but locked with bookings essential.

From here, you need some map reading skills as the track largely follows the river bank. About a kilometre upstream from the hut the track heads up North Boulder creek then into the first tributary (true left) before launching itself up a steep 500m ridge climb (some kindly soul has left a rope in one particularly gruesome spot). It eases for the last 100m before topping out at just over 900m.

The view expands as we climb until, just as we identify the Makara wind farm on the western horizon, we ascend into mist. The mossy condition of the forest shows that the clouds scrape along these hills a fair proportion of the time. A small clearing with a survey pin marks the top (about 3pm) and we just manage to squeeze a text off to our driver. We’re in cloud and it’s a bit chilly so we don’t stick around.

The track drops gently to about 700m then plummets to 300m, before easing us down to 200m. The descent is fairly tricky in places; the track is not always easy to find and it’s loose or slippery underfoot.

Wharepapa hut is on the other side of Wharepapa stream (true left) but sign posted: “Joe’s Hut.” At 5pm it’s already quite dim and we light candles as soon as the door shuts. The hut is well looked after and the log book indicates relatively light use with a lot of hunters.

The next morning we follow the track from the door of the hut (not quite what our map shows) about 140m up to a saddle which drops us into the Battery Stream catchment. The track from here is fairly rough in places and easily lost but we don’t have too much trouble working our way out into gently shelving beech forest which fades away for a last 2km walk along a farm drainage ditch to the road; about 3hrs after leaving the hut.

All up it took us about 10 hours; we aren’t super fit and weren’t pushing it, but I suspect a bigger party would be slower. Track conditions are variable and a little challenging in places. I thoroughly enjoyed this impromptu trip; tested some new gear and didn’t waste the weekend mowing the lawns; definitely one for the bucket list.

Driving instructions

West end: Catchpool stream off the Coast Road from Wainuiomata. Check the gate opening times.
East end: From Featherston, turn South onto the Western Lake Road (also the way to Cross Creek). Follow this for ages until you leave the lake behind, continue until you see the “East West Access Road” coming in from your left. About 2.5Km past this there is a barely visible pull off on the right with a faded DoC sign. There is a farm entrance labelled “Devon” about 200m earlier. If you go around a sharpish right bend and a bridge you have gone 500m too far.

Cellphone coverage

Mostly none. Some patchy cover at the top of Papatahi; intermittent coming down to the farm land and at Western Lake Road. I wouldn’t rely on it.

Holdsworth to Waiohine, family tramp

Holdsworth to Waiohine family tramp

14-15 April 2012, Family club trip, Tararua Forest Park

Andrew, Mike, Benjamin, Adam and Leo 

Pretty much perfect weather all weekend: overcast for the 'climb' on Saturday, clearing during the night to a brilliant, cloudless Sunday. Virtually no wind.

The trip starts with pie and chips for breakfast in Carterton at the Goodness Food Café. Don’t be fooled by the humble exterior, the food is good and they threw in a couple of free hot chocolates.

After a bit of car juggling assistance from a local contact, the group leaves Holdsworth road end around 11.30 and heads up the excellent and easily graded track to Rocky Lookout for lunch. Leo (age 6) sets the pace throughout the day, carrying his own good sized pack and only stopping when bribed with Jelly Beans.

Mt Holdsworth is only visible as a series of spurs disappearing into the cloud but it’s not cold, there’s no wind and the sun is trying to break through so the going is good.

The drop into Totara creek is interesting with a little bit of clambering required before the trek down the right bank, which always seems to take a little longer then expected. A few sections of track have been cut out by the creek and there’s a number of big trees down. However the track is easy to find and DoC seem to be clearing the worst tree falls.

Reaching the end of Totara Creek there is a glimpse of Totara Flats Hut across the Waiohine River; indicating that we are just minutes away. First though there is the impressive swing-bridge across the main river, a far cry from the cage and cable that one member of the party recalls. It’s coming on for 5:00pm, just a little a bit over the DoC estimate of 4 hours. But pretty good going for a 6 year old with his own pack.

Totara Flats Hut is a large, comfortable and well managed facility. Quite a few families clearly think so,
judging by the number of younger trampers that are having a brilliant time when we arrive. This includes a number of other club members: the Kendons, Carrs and Connollys who are returning to Holdsworth Road end after a second night at Totara Flats.

There is really no excuse for boring, stodgy or heavy tramping dinners with the help of the club recipe book. We prepare Aunty Rata’s Tomato Mac Cheese. The dried coconut milk works its transformational magic and there is more than enough.

The younger members in the hut have pretty much retired by 8pm and by 10pm the last of the adults switches off the candles and silence descends. The hut is full (about 40) so Adam and Leo sleep in their tent whilst the others bunk down on the deck in preference to the floor inside or pitching a fly.

The hut is good natured chaos in the morning and we are the first of a number of parties to head out onto the sunlit grass flats. With a passing nod towards the location of the old new Totara Flats Hut we potter down the flats and regroup at the end to try to catch a glimpse of Sayer Hut across the river – not a chance. Benjamin and Andrew had stayed there two weeks previously but no-one was game to get their boots wet this early in the morning to check it out.

Although the track pretty much follows the course of the river there is a fair amount of scrambling up and down old river terraces and across side streams. This is fine for adults but is a little more challenging at age 6. Leo throws himself at every bank and obstacle but having half the stretch and pace means he has to do twice as much and it becomes clear that we will take longer then the DoC time estimate.

Benjamin and Andrew forage ahead to arrange the car shuffle pausing to note a few items of minor botanical interest; the odd stand of Nikau, a single rata flower, and a slightly passed-its-best basket fungus.

When steps, culverts and board walks start appearing on the track we know it’s not far to go. The trip culminates with the spectacular Waiohine bridge; enough to say that if you haven’t seen it, you should.

The whole party is out by 3:00pm, giving a tramping time of nearly 6h against a DoC estimate of 3 1/2 hours. Plenty of time to enjoy the bush and the scenery.

So, a highly successful tramp providing an interesting round trip which a six year old managed and with more than enough to keep the adults entertained (but allow more time than the DoC estimates). And to top it off, two prospective club members completed their second club tramp.

Post Script

We noticed that it’s a long way along the road before you get cell phone coverage at the Waiohine road end so don’t rely on it to call your driver.