Mangahuka Stream and Muir Creek

The main range of the Tararuas is well travelled - similarly, the Otaki and Waiohine Rivers have had their fair share of exploration. However, sandwiched between the rivers and the range there are a couple of bits of real estate that don't seem to get so much attention. 

This weekend I have designed a cunning plan to explore an area to the east of Maungahuka. The area is relatively remote requiring a bit of dedication to get through in a weekend and the Waiohine river is somewhat gorgish meaning it's steepish and escape routes could be limited. The intended route is a little complicated in places and should be a good navigation challenge.

What:    Navigation and spot-height trip
When:   24-26 November 2017
Where:  Maungahau Stream and Muir Creek
Who:     Solo
Map:    



Tiger country - bits on marked trails largely omitted

In order to get a head start on the weekend I head up to Otaki forks after work on Friday. A little after 8pm I'm about to set out when the damp state of my pack leads to suspicions about my camel back's level of commitment. Just in case, I slip an empty iced coffee bottle into my pack.

There's no particular hurry up the hill as it will be well dark by the time I get to Kime Hut. I take the time to pick off spot height 455 which turns out to be in a series of grassy clearings off the track up Judd Ridge just before you get to the bush proper.

The sky above Kapakapanui is pink and a few hills in the north are catching the last of the sun. Soon after getting into the forest the head torch becomes necessary.  The evening is mild and the track good, a morepork signals that it's hunting time and disdains my clumsy response.

At Field Hut (just before 10) there is a chap ensconced for the night and we chat briefly while I fill in the log.

Above Field, the climb reveals the distant orange lights of towns and cities like embers on the horizon. It remains calm and mild. At 11:20 there are no lights on at Kime Hut but there are packs in the foyer so I quietly sort myself out in the entrance before sneaking in to find a bed.

In the morning my hut companions turn out to be a small group of older members of the Palmerston North Tramping Club. They're heading back down to the forks so are in no hurry and I'm first out the door around 6:40.

Looking south west from Hut Mound
Kapakapanui with Kapiti Island behind  - just to right of centre

There's a high overcast but the hills are clear, the day is warm and the wind light. The sound of Hector Stream drifts out of the valley on the right as I head north up the main range. Looking back at one point tiny figures are just discernible inching down Judd Ridge towards Dennan. Too far away to bother waving.

From near Bridge Peak looking up the main range

Cheerful tramper just after setting out

It's been dry in the hills and even the usually soggy parts of the track are firm. I pause frequently to take advantage of the view and identify ridges and spurs I have and have not traveled.

The ladder before Maungahuka is the iconic and legendary feature of this part of the range. The legend stemming from the days when trampers navigated the Tararua peaks with the aid of what was little better than a chain or a vertical Taranaki gate. This time I take a moment to clamber the few meters to the top of the first peak as it is a marked spot height. I also pause for a few photos in another fruitless attempt at capturing the sense of the place. It's about 9 so about 2:20 hrs to get this far.

From the first peak contemplating the next
top of ladder just below shot (left of middle)

Maungahuka marks the first diversion into unknown territory. Pt 1068 is on the long flat topped spur running south that is visible on the approach to the Tararua Peaks. There's a tarn marked on the map and my water is getting low (despite the coffee flavoured back-up) so I potter down. There are indications that it has been travelled before including some pigtail fence standards that don't seem to mark anything in particular. My guess is they're from hunters that have helicoptered into Maungahuka Hut.

South side of the Tararua peaks from spur

Remains of a tarn 

It's clear all the way to pt 1068 with a few clumps of stunted beech. An old, unused shotgun cartridge indicates who normally visits these parts - looking at the map you could probably find a way down to the Hector Stream from here but given the contours you would want to pick the route carefully.

On the hot slog back up to the ridge, the view of the Tararua Peak's is familiar in a backwards sort of way. There are a couple of tarns which in the current conditions are completely non-potable without treatment. At the top the heat and dry are catching up and I have to take a long lie down in the tussock - it's just before 11:00 and the spur has taken almost an hour and a half. I consider pulling the plug but in the end elect to continue on plan to the bushline and re-evaluate in the shade.

The track down (then up) to Concertina Knob is well formed and marked. The bush is dry with mosses and ferns crisped from the heat. I have another long sit down in the shade and think through the options deciding in the end to carry on.

Concertina knob at 12:20 and there's a bit of a foot trail heading north east away from the main track in the desired direction, there are a couple of old markers near the top but these seem to peter out or head off somewhere else (Hector Forks maybe?). The navigation is tricky with the spur meandering and often not that well defined. I'm relying heavily on the altimeter.

During a pause for a call of nature a deer roars from just over the ridge and starts coming closer. I have been following an animal trail and wonder what sort of target a trouser tangled tramper will present to a large stag. With decorum hastily restored I roar back and we continue to happily shout at each other, although he starts heading off down slope suggesting that he is either intimidated by my Cervidae masculinity or slightly disturbed by the weird noises following him down the ridge.

At 2:00 I've dropped to 700m where there's a flattish top and an scrubby clearing that proves difficult to navigate with bush lawyer and no discernible trail under a hot sun. This is no place to be caught without a shirt so I drop east off the spur and sidle to pick it up again where it splits and heads east. This takes me down to pt 492 (the object of this part of the exercise) where I suck the last of my carefully hoarded, coffee flavoured water. It's 3:00.

This bit should be interesting. The Waiohine is marked as entering a gorge and I intend to find a way
down to the confluence with the Maungahuka stream without getting bluffed. It is one of those situations where the plan is pushing the resolution of the map - it's clearly steep but there could be a gully that will get me within sidling distance of the top end of a gorge. It proves to be reasonably straight forward through open bush albeit steep with scree underfoot. I end up following a wee creek that drops out right beside the gorge taking half an hour from 492.

Arrival at Waiohine
Foot of Middle Spur top left 

The sight of the deep green pools of the Waiohine is very welcome and the Maungahuka stream provides an opportunity to suck up plenty of water and replenish stocks.


The confluence is a funny spot - above and below, the Waiohine flows between steep rocky sides but here it is briefly open. I suspect more people come through here by the river route than by foot. I'm keeping an eye on pacing myself against the clock so don't pause for a swim and start up the foot of Middle Spur. Normally a named spur will have obvious trails but I can't say as I noticed anything more than animal trails which come and go. The forest along the flat top of the spur is open and easy travel through spot height 668 (4:50).

Maungahuka stream from right, Waiohine disappears into gorge to left
arrival point from spur to right of gorge

Last look at Waiohine River before heading up spur

Pt 668 and a slightly less cheerful tramper

I found reference on the intranet to someone else following my route through here - dropping to Muir Creek from the small saddle west of pt 668. There is no indications of trail that I can see though. It's the usual scramble down through the bush with the bottom of the slope liberally inhabited by nettles (15 minutes to creek from 668).

In the wee creek it is a 50/50 call whether to go slightly up or down stream to find a spur to follow up. I head up a little way up and find a way onto a steep spur with lots of windfall. It's hard going and again no sign of previous use. At about 880m I sidle across a dry gully (i.e. scramble through rotting deadfall) to reach the next spur and follow down to 885. Finally, a ground trail here.

A slightly grim tramper at pt 885

At last, it is time to turn and head up to Aokaparangi Hut - at 7:00 it feels like I might actually reach the comfort of a hut for the night. I plod up following anything that resembles a trail and eventually reach the bush edge in clag. The hut isn't in sight but by following the bush line up to the right it eventually comes into view 40 minutes after leaving 885.

Despite travelling the ridge above on more than a few occasions I have never bothered to drop the 200m to this hut. It has been described as a biv so I have always pictured it as a small, slightly shabby and very cosy affair. However, it looks very trim in DOC green paint and despite having just two beds there is good space inside and you could cram a few extras in.

Aokaparangi Hut

It's also clean and dry - I crawl onto the bunk and have a sleep before rousing enough to cook dinner.

The penny stove does its thing

After breakfast, the results of yesterday's stress is still apparent so the plan is to just follow the main range out. I head out at 6:40.

The clag is close about the hills but I figure that rather than climb to the ridge I will sidle to where the track drops from the peak to follow the range south. I don't really recommend this unless the visibility is good as you are in for a bit of a struggle if you go too low.

Islands in the mist
the lumps on the main range south 

Clearing ...

Clearing ...

Clearing ... ?

The clag comes and goes all morning so there is little view for a start and the only thing of note is a couple of chaps who stayed the night at Maungahuka.

As the morning develops the west clears but the clag in the east does it's best to colonise, flowing across the ridge to drift away in the light air wafting up from the Otaki River.

Maungahuka Hut passes (8:50) then the ladder (9:15) before the long lumpy ridge to Bridge Peak with the sound of the Hector stream drifting up from the cloud (again) the marker of progress.

Maungahuka Hut

A tiny, tiny ladder

Battle of the clag - looking north up range

Leatherwood busy creating more leatherwood

On the last climb to Bridge Peak the sun is out and hammering down so it's slow work with the reward of a long sit in the tussock at the top to look at the clouds and views (11:35).

Main range from Bridge Peak - the clag is winning

Bridge Peak down Judd ridge to Otaki Gorge and the forks in the distance

The last planned bit of business for the weekend is to divert onto Table Top on the way down to pick up the spot height there. Another one of those spots that I have never bothered to visit in anticipation of better views to be had further up the ridge. It's about 12:30 and I waste a bit off time thinking there might be a short cut north west off the knob - there isn't.

From Table Top - Bridge peak in cloud
Dennan just touching the ceiling 

This part of the main trail is often busy with people taking advantage of the good track, two huts and great views for short weekend and long day trips. A couple coming up stop for a chat and clearly have some experience as they enquire about, and appreciate the description of my weekend's doings. They're popping up to Table Top for the view.

At Field a party of four are preparing to head down and confirm that Kime Hut was packed last night with many in Field Hut too.  I bump into two more coming up as I descend to the forks.

It's baking hot by the time I get to the bottom (2:00) and it's a race of heat against laziness as I try to avoid the need to stop and don sun screen. The picnic area by the Waiotauru is busy with families having lunch and mucking about in the river.

Reflections

Another successful weekend. Some salient lessons about ambition, heat and equipment (I now have a new, more expensive Osprey water pack). It was only the presence of the spot heights that got me thinking about the area and I'm pleased to have passed through. Lots of future exploration potential - Maungahuka Stream, spur to Hector River, pt 885 to Waiohine River ...

Tararua - Southern Main Range

Otaki, Kime, Waitewaewae loop

22 – 24 February 2013
Solo

The good thing about picking up tramping in the Tararuas after many years’ break is that everything is new and most trips go somewhere you’ve either been meaning to go for ages, or have forgotten most of the details from school and ‘varsity years.

The southern end of the Main Range is one of these. It sits there on the map and is visible from many vantage points, but weather and circumstances kept conspiring against knocking the bugger off.

This weekend I finally manage to get around to it.

After reading various accounts of parts of the trip on the web I decide to start from the south. The reasons are simple: I’m comfortable with a torchlight trip up the Judd ridge which gets the main climb out of the way before Saturday morning, the Tararua peaks are knocked off early in the trip, and as Kime Hut is going to be ripped down in two weeks, it’s the final chance to spend a night there.

The trip has loomed as a slightly daunting unknown. Looking at the maps it looks like a lot of exposed travel and there is the matter of the ladder and chains around Tuiti and Tunui; anything requiring that amount of engineering has got to be intimidating.

Friday – Otaki Forks to Kime

The weather forecast is good, but then 4 days out starts predicting cloud with strong southerlies on the Friday, and possibly cloud on the Saturday with winds dying. It stabilises at this, and I watch with a jaundiced eye as clouds bowl through Wellington all Friday. However, I decide to reserve judgement until Field Hut.

The phone goes just as I am about to beat an early exit so it is not until 5 that I’m in the car and heading for a traffic jam starting at Whenuatapu and lasting until Waikanae. Imagine doing this every day. The wind is whipping the trees around on the coast but the clouds clear quickly apart from some suspicious characters lurking around the hills.

In the end it’s 7.10pm when I leave the car at the overnight park (140m) and set out. The sun has left the grass flats, but I catch it on the toe of the ridge. This part is familiar after coming up with Mike under similar conditions a couple of weeks back. The sun is a little lower this time, so I see the same views but with sunset well advanced, and the air is once again perfectly still.

The new head torch comes out just before reaching Field Hut (830m) around 8.45. I stop long enough to have a chat to a couple of older guys doing the same loop over a couple more days, top up my water, jot a note in the log and head on up. By now it’s dark but above the bushline a half moon makes itself useful.

The wind picks up a little but I’m still just OK in a microfibre T-shirt and shorts.

At first there seems to be nothing to see outside the pool of torchlight on the track. But then the white flowers scattered along the track catch the eye as they seem to fluoresce in the light. And climbing higher the lights of Otaki then Paraparaumu show as clusters of orange on the horizon. The moonlight bathes the clouds which sit like a bad wig along the main ridge. At one point there is an almost invisible glow in the middle of the dark valley on the north of the ridge. Possibly Penn Hut, although I’ve never noted it by day.

The ridge climbs south-east and there’s only one direction to go on the easy-to-follow track. However, this also means the Southern Cross and Pointers are positioned for easy confirmation of the direction of travel. I keep this in mind for Bridge Peak and Hut Mound where the route flattens out and there are a couple of junctions.  More for practice than any real need.

The wind picks up further near the top of Bridge Peak (1400m) and it’s tempting to stop and rug up but it’s not long now so I settle for eating a late night dinner sandwich as I potter along under the moon. Far off the lights of the Hutt and Wellington smear the horizon. Eastwards the clouds hug the length of the main range, and I have already climbed above the lowest of them. I assume the light southerly is keeping my ridge clear.

The turn off for the main ridge at the top of Bridge Peak arrives and I think of Te Papa boss Seddon Bennington and his friend Rosie Jackson who died up here in poor conditions in 2009. It’s not 100% clear what happened but it seems that they didn’t act on weather forecasts and signs, or the warnings of other trampers. They may well have been in a frame of mind of the hut being so close they just had to push on and make it. Whatever the reason they ended up 800m down the main ridge track, 90 degrees off course. Without a tent they huddled in their bags under a survival blanket, she died there while at some point he left and died 300m up the track towards Kime. It gets you thinking about risk assessment and decision making in the hills.

Although familiar with the turn I take particular care to check tonight and take another fix from the Southern Cross. After Bridge Peak the track climbs over Hut Mound (1440m) and can be a little tricky to find as the rusted warratahs are not exactly high-vis. However it is on the same bearing and over the top of the Mound the wind instantly drops to nothing. There are no lights visible as I make my way down the water channels towards the hut.

Its 2220 when I arrive and I’m pleased to be there, after a little over 3 hours steady tramping and a climb of 1.3km, after a hard week sitting in meetings or in front of the computer. The hut is half full of building materials and there are two beds left. I waste no time in getting into my bag and settling down.

During the night two things get my attention; the wind gets up and slaps the hut around a little and I wonder what it will be like in the morning; then I hear something scampering around the hut, it sounds like a rat the size of a dog – I can even hear its toe nails clicking on the floor. However, I’m too tired to do anything except note that my pack (and food) is beside me on the top bunk and relax back into sleep.

Saturday – Kime to Waitewaewae

The hut is slow to rise, so with one of the builders I’m the first up. He confirms that they are up for 15 days at a stretch; that this hut will be closed on March 4 and that they will probably be pulling it down during the following week. His dog wakes and wanders around the hut sounding for all the world like a large rat.

Muesli from a bag for breakfast then I poke around the building site (framed up to roof height – just adding the final strapping before putting the roof trusses on), and take a few nostalgic pictures of the old hut on my phone. It’s 7.30 and the sun is up by the time I leave, taking pictures backwards as I go. It’s nippy enough for two layers and the wind is variable but not too bad.

 

From Hut Mound there is a track that cuts the corner to the Main Ridge Track. On reaching the track  the range can be seen to be mostly free of cloud although there are some wisps forming through some of the dips. The plan for today is to get to Anderson Memorial Hut and assess options.

The first action is to lose about 300 precious metres then meander up and down along the ridge, ticking off progress by the high points reached (ranging from 1138m at Boyd-Wilson to 1325m at the peaks). The Wairarapa is invisible under cloud which spills towards the range but never quite makes it. Behind, the stretch of Judd Ridge to the west is laid out in increasing detail and Field and Hector are bare against a clear sky. To the south, Winchcombe and Neill Ridge claim the horizon, dropping away from Hector and reminding me of a very similar morning when I was looking from there to here.

There is never quite anything seriously resembling cloud on the ridge today, wisps form in the air at a couple of points but these are dragged apart in the light wind and don’t form into anything significant. The light to mild southerly stays for the morning and becomes a very helpful coolant in the hot afternoon. Taking advantage of the conditions I stop frequently to take pictures, deeply regretting that I only have a very ordinary camera on my phone.

For most of the way along the ridge that morning I am trying to identify the Tararua Peaks and the location of the (in)famous ladder. I’m still a little apprehensive but can’t help thinking that it can’t be too much worse than some of the clambering on Neill Ridge. Finally the approach begins. The first action is a short scramble up a rocky climb and the drop off beside the (now very narrow) track starts to become precipitous rather than just steep. Ahead there is what looks like a vertical rocky wall across the route; in shadow it looks like the track can’t possibly go over it. It does and isn’t too bad, a scramble sure, but I reach the top without feeling that I have had to take undue risks.

At the top of Tuiti (which is where you find yourself) there is a short scramble across the north face of the peak and you make your way down to a rope that leads down into the cleft between Tuiti and Tunui. To me, this was the hairiest point but in the conditions not a sweat. The rope takes you across the cleft between the two peaks (from where you can really appreciate how steep these things are) to the top of the ladder. It was easy to step onto the ladder and although conscious of the amount of air below your heels it’s just a reminder to hold on tight and develop a bit of rhythm to the descent.

At the bottom of the ladder there are chains to sidle around and up onto the shoulders of Tunui but mostly I thought these were for comfort rather than strict necessity. Sitting to take a photo of the ladder (which will never quite capture the height and psychological impact of the thing) I hear from behind and above “Ah, here’s the ladder!”

The couple have left Maungahuka an hour ago and are making their way around the same loop as me (but in a clockwise direction). We chat for a while, me talking down the navigation of the peaks (no sense winding them up!), them giving me some information of the route they have travelled.

It takes considerably less than an hour to get over the unnamed bump then climb up to Maungahuka Hut (past the turn off to Neill Fork Hut at 1330m). I take a welcome break at around 1030 to send a text, top up water, put on sunscreen and leave a message in the log (which I think I put yesterday’s date on – damn!).

After a bit of mucking about it’s 11 before I leave. The day is now clear, the clouds have disappeared from the eastern valleys and over the next few hours from the Wairarapa also. Maungahuka is new and tidy nestled next to its tarn.

On the map there are 5 significant high points between here and Anderson Memorial Hut: 2 then bear east, 3 then drop to bush before AM hut. Over the next 3:20 I tick these off as the heat and light winds take their toll of moisture and energy. No complaining though; the views are stunning all about; the South Island is visible and as Hector drops behind, Holdsworth takes the eastern horizon and more and more of the days progress can be seen laid out behind. The shape of the surrounding hills are less familiar as this is territory in which I have not spent much time, I resolve that this is something to be put right.

Aokaparangi (1354m) is the middle of the 3 high points mentioned above. It is noted for the drop off to Mid-Waiohine Hut (and access to Mt Holdsworth; 1470m) and for a two berth Bivvy (small hut). I had hoped to spot this but didn’t look at the right time. I suspect taking some bearings at known points would be helpful if you were keen to find it in the clag. At 200 vertical metres off the top I decide I won’t visit today.

The climbs are getting tiring now and I have got through a fair amount of water. As you drop off Kahiwiroa (1320m) and into the bush it's in the knowledge that when the track emerges again it will be at Anderson Memorial Hut(1140m). I don’t stop to check the distance on the map so the kilometre and half through the twisted mossy forest is interminable.  Eventually the hut appears through the trees with tussocks behind just as the last mouthful of water disappears.

Normally the degree of pleasure experienced on reaching a hut is related to the end of a long day or respite from atrocious weather. Today the 20 min break at Anderson Memorial Hut is a chance to top up water, stop, cool down and rest for a while. The water is welcome and I drink as much as I comfortably can, and it’s still not quite enough. Anderson Memorial Hut itself has a good feel beyond the need for relief. It’s an endearing 6 berths and a pot belly, cosy but light and clean.

There’s still a good amount of day left so I decide to soldier on to Waitewaewae. Departing at 2.40 I carefully note the climb required as the pace is not quite so sprightly as it was this morning.

50min later, Junction Knob (1375m) marks the point of departure from the Main Range and a turn west towards the great plummet. It's a chance to enjoy the view, take a few photos and try to send texts. Mt Crawford (1462m), just a kilometre to the north is not even tempting in my current desire to get somewhere to swim, eat and sleep. The other tops to the north and east are not familiar but there is a certain quiet satisfaction at how far away Mt Hector and Field Peak look.

There’s a short final drop across to Shoulder Knob (1310m) then a rapid descent to the bushline and down to Waitewaewae, about a vertical kilometre below Junction Knob. The descent is as interminable and punishing on tired legs as it looks on the map. A self-photo shortly below the bush line on first review hardly has the look of a tramper enjoying the excursion. On the second go it still looks like a painful grimace on a cadaver so no more attempts are made.

The bush is dry, spleen worts are blackened and shrivelled and the moss is crisp to the touch, but still the green of the ferns is surprisingly intense after the colours of the tops. The upside is that the mossy, bouldery, rooty track is less slippery than usual. There is a lot of leaf and branch litter on the track demanding constant attention. There seems to be a lot of branches of that particular length that the heel of one boot lifts the end of the branch to catch the toe of the following foot. The result is the foot can go up but not forward. These are often found at the top of a step off.

The trip down passes slowly. At around 750m there are a few more birds around and most of the rest of the way the track passes through the territory of Riflemans that twitter and squeak at the intrusion. As usual though, there are fewer birds then I recall from 20 years ago. It was not until I startle a group of three goats that I realise that the understory is not very dense. They crash away leaving a smell reminiscent of certain types of cheese.

The hill finishes fairly abruptly and it’s a short trip across the Otaki River on the swing bridge and around the spur to Waitewaewae Hut. The hut is packed and more are arriving. I give up any thought of getting a mattress and put my pack next to a bench under the veranda.

The prime swimming hole just in front of the hut is taken so I head a short distance back up the track to a shingle fan that promises to catch the last of the sun. Only boots and socks are spared a dip and it is exceedingly pleasant to feel the sweat and smell wash away. Afterwards the sun drives off a lot of the moisture leaving the gear tolerable for the morning and less offensive. It is also a relief to sit in the sun away from the noisy hut.

Back at the hut a family group have appropriated my bench and seem set for the duration so unless I can find another berth I’m going to have to wait for them to turn in. The MkII 10 cent stove heats dinner and I chat to a few people to pick up some gen on the track out. Most say that it is up and down and hard work. One woman who has accompanied her family took 8 hours and was clearly not looking forward to the return trip. I’m glad I hadn’t tried to torch light my way out.

A friendly chap gives me a spare mattress so I carve out a niche on the floor by the fire and turn in hoping people will settle down before long.  Eventually people stop stumbling about and shining torches and even the family group comes in to settle.

Sunday – Waitewaewae to Otaki Forks

Around 6am, one by one people stagger out to the loo with the inevitable stamping, banging and rustling this entails. Still the hut sleeps and there is no sign of anyone getting up. I’ve pretty much had enough so quietly carry my gear outside, and pack and go before 7am. An OSM suffices for breakfast and there is only one person up when I leave.

The track back is not quite as bad or long as painted. Waitewaewae Hut is at about 300m on the banks of the Otaki River. The track to Otaki Forks from the hut cuts off a long southwards dip in the river. It climbs up beside Arapito Stream to Plateau at 530m. This part is rooty and meanders up through the bush and across creeks. The Plateau section is easy going, although in the wet promises to be exceedingly muddy. The track then tumbles down Saddle Creek. At the top of which, if you’re lucky, is a glimpse of grass land in the distance (south west), if you’re slightly less lucky you also take the time to tape a blister on one heel. This section is not so well marked and the catchment is quite active so there is bit of scrambling around rocks, fallen trees and washouts.

On the way down Saddle Creek the sun cracks through the saddle behind and lights the gully. Eventually (around 220m) the track swings south leaving the creek behind and starts the long sidle along the Waitatapia Stream. The main thing to watch for is a 60m climb around a large and active slip. The track is then of much better quality, often following an old bush railway with sections of sleepers and rails still in place. At one point an old boiler for a log hauler is mouldering into the bush.

By now a decent lunch is front of mind so it's a steady clip and a bit of jogging on the down slopes. Grass lands open up below and eventually the track drops down to cross the Otaki River. Then it’s just the final grass flats. It's dry and although a lot of feet have passed since Friday night some of the prints in the dust were made by the same boots that are supporting my aching feet now.

It’s getting quite warm when the bridge over the Waiotauru River comes into sight marking the end of the morning’s activity at 1010; about 3:20 after leaving the hut.

Someone is sitting in the information shelter by the bridge. I enquire if she’s waiting for a bus and she asks if it was me at the Tararua Peaks the day before. They have just come down from Field and we swap notes about our experiences. I had noted a couple of hut log entries from them in which she was apparently feeling the burn. However the only sentiment apparent now is pride in what they have done. We agree on the luck of having such excellent conditions on the Tops which is way more memorable than sore feet.

Gear Notes

Everything behaved. The new black Diamond head torch was very good. It has a number of features that were used: the 2 diode mode is good for general illumination whilst walking; the dimming function is great for around huts and reading; the lock function is comforting when chucking it in the pack and the battery indicator is a great feature. It was lighter than another one checked in the shop. It takes three AAA batteries.

The camel back needs a clip on the harness. Sitting it under the lid of the pack has the added bonus of one half running out first meaning you have some warning before all the water is gone. However, I need to carry a second flexible bottle as 2L isn’t enough in the heat (a second bottle can function as the reserve tank).

The MkII stove may have used a little more fuel than expected. I think it sits too high on the stand, however it heated 500ml in reasonable time.