Waitatapia - Island Forks

It has been too long away from the hills and cabin fever has well set in. Eventually it gets to the point where you can not contemplate letting another weekend slip by without getting out.

With good weather forecast and river gauges showing normal flows exploring a stream or two seems like a good option.

I've always wondered about Waitatapia Stream - it's a straight wee valley running north from near Otaki Forks. There's not many trip reports on the intranet that I could find and I'm wondering if there might be some old logging trails in the lower valley. To round the trip out, I decide to pick up a short section of so far unexplored ridge and pop over to Island Forks Hut for the night.

I'm mindful about my recent inactivity so warn the support crew that it's an 'optimistic plan' (i.e. I might be coming out by torch light or holing up somewhere). A trip report from Leisure Life Larry sounds a bit of a warning about the ridge in question ...

Having contemplated these matters during lunch on Friday, the trip pretty much designs itself ... in to Island Forks Hut via the ridge route checking for a better route around the 'slip' on the old Waitewaewae track on the way. Out via Mick Stream to the ridge between Mick and 975, then bash down to the headwaters of the Waitatapia and follow back down to Saddle Stream.


What:   Navigation trip
Where: Waitatapia stream and Island Forks
When:   31 Aug - 1 Sept 2019
Who:    Solo
Maps:


Large scale - Otaki forks at bottom

Start (up ridge) and finish (down stream) - commute along the YTYY track omitted



 
Just after 7am - I'm pulling my boots on when an older chap with a weathered looking day pack pauses and asks where I'm headed. I say Waita-taapia - he pauses and says 'oh Wai-tata-pia. He is of course completely correct in emphasising all syllables equally - I've been mispronouncing it all along (not that it comes up in conversation often).

It's a cool, pleasant morning and promising to be a fine day. Winter hasn't left even a lingering hint in the air. 

The sun is on the surrounding hills but not quite on the flats as I head across the swing bridge and along the Waitewaewae track.  The old tramway is as easy going as always; I potter along past the first slip and the 'new' sidle track. Today I'm heading further along to the second slip.

First slip

A little before the slip a wee stream meets the track and markers follow its course up hill.  This is the point to start the detour around the slip (you can also go to the slip edge and work your up but it can be messy).  The trail heads up then along a bit to meet the slip edge - it used to cross here but the slip is much bigger now. I say slip but the thing has passed 'slip' and 'erosion chute' status and is well on the way to becoming a respectable gully now.

I peer out and think there might possibly be a way to scramble across, but it looks a bit hairy so I resolve to go around this time and have a look from the other side for future reference.

A rougher trail leads further up and soon gets hard to follow in kiekie. Then supplejack. There are a few indications people have been through but it's hard to follow any route and it's pretty unpleasant in places.  I pop out on the edge of the slip on the way down the other side - yep, there might be a route across but it would be dicey.

Back on the track it's easy going again to Saddle Creek. I leave the orange triangles that head up towards the plateau, and head down stream to the Waitatapia, arriving about 8.50am.

It will be ridge travel for the next few hours so I fill up - I also stack a few stones on prominent boulders so I'll recognise this spot if I'm coming down the Waitatapia in dim light tomorrow.

It's now a brilliant day but cool as I clamber onto the spur beside Saddle Creek. I start the climb at an easy pace and pause often in deference to my shape. 

There's possibly a bit of foot trail and once an old tarpaulin, but pretty good going apart from some messy wind fall towards the top of the spur. At the ridge I follow compass and map and keep an eye on the altimeter. The foot trail comes and goes and it pays to keep your eyes peeled. It's pretty good bush with some lovely mossy spots for rests.




One of very few markers on the ridge

There's a wee saddle before the two knobs south of 975 where you get a window out of the forest and across an erosion chute to wild and woolly Tararua interior.  There's snow on some of the distant peaks but the tussock on the nearby Mt Crawford is tawny gold in the midday sun - well, the 1.20pm sun.

Tail of Oriwa Ridge in middle - Mt Crawford out of sight to right

Slip south of 975

When I think I'm at 975 I find a ground trail into a clearing on the west side of the ridge where I can take a back bearing from Tangata Maunga to confirm I am where I think I am. Time to find my spur down to the Waitewaewae River.

I take a bearing and set off across the broad rounded top through open forest. It's always hard to tell at this point if you are going to hit the spur, but it forms up nicely and I'm soon descending. It's a slightly tricky line I've chosen but I manage ok and am soon nearing the valley floor. There doesn't seem to be any ground trial as such.

The sound of a helicopter filters down the valley and I have two thoughts - some buggers will have nabbed the two bunks in the hut, and they'll probably head down river for an evening shoot.

As I scramble down to the bush edge I periodically let loose a loud whistle which I keep up until I get to the hut. 

At almost 3.30 it's taken a while to get here. The river is at normal flow and is somewhat nippy.  There's no avoiding wet feet from multiple crossings, and a couple of chilly, bullock-deep wades. No swims but.

There are frequent deer prints in the gravel but no people prints.

The sun has long gone out of the valleys and it's getting cooler but still well light when I turn up the East Waitewaewae branch. A few more whistles and I am relieved to arrive at an empty hut about 4.10pm - I won't be getting the fly out after all.




Forks near Island Forks Hut



Island Forks Hut

I'm a bit cold so settle into my sleeping bag and spend the remainder of the afternoon reading the log, doing crosswords and banging my head on the low bunk.

The hut is small enough to look a little like a large dolls house. It's tidy, serviceable and getting a bit of use, although there are often gaps of months between visits. The log is a mix of DOC staff checking track tunnels, counting birds etc, hunters, hut baggers and other explorers. There's a couple of notes in the log about Mick Creek being a bit unpleasant so I change my plan for the morning to take the spur on the down stream side of it, and note this in the log.

I ignore the alarm and have a bit of a sleep in getting away at 7.55 with the sun touching the top of the hills.




East Waitewaewae below hut

There's a few wades but nothing problematic on the way up to Island forks - about 15 minutes away.

Island Forks Island

It's a little dim at the forks so my photos are again poor quality - but the junction is clear and I'm soon wandering up the West Waitewaewae. 

I'm keeping an eye out for the side streams that will mark my spur and mistakenly count a small unmarked creek, so start up the wrong spur. I have a feeling it might be wrong so keep an eye on the compass - sure enough it starts veering the wrong way. A sharp drop into a creek and scramble up the other side wastes a bit of time but has me back on course.

I reach the spur on a large flat plateau in tall forest. There's a DOC biodiversity marker for Island Forks 9. I take my time ambling up through generally pretty open forest - it's pleasant work for a still spring morning.

The risk I am taking with this spur is that it will end in a band of leatherwood. But it stays open pretty much to the top - however as I pop out at the crest I discover I'm on a wee knob short of the ridge - with leatherwood in between. A strategic retreat and sidle left sees me at the ridge proper around 10.40 without the expected battle.

The foot trail from Mick to 975 runs along here. A(nother) bearing on Tangata Maunga confirms I am where I planned to be. I take a long break while I try to get a text out (there's coverage but it wouldn't send) - probably leaving the ridge a little after 11.

The success of this morning's navigation makes me a bit gung-ho so instead of popping along the ridge to a bit of a spur, I just barrel off the side - into slimy leatherwood then steep slippery slopes that keep dropping into precipitous creeks choked with rotten logs.

I keep a course that drifts left and down valley and eventually the slope eases and I'm ambling along a terrace in reasonably open bush. It ends abruptly requiring a bit of a scramble to the stream bed.

The stream here is typical Tararua foothill headwaters but relatively benign.  I don't see much sign of people until lower down the valley. As I potter south the valley opens and the sun streams in.

Marking progress in streams is generally a bit tricky - your normal pace is much slower with the frequent crossings and scrambles, the map doesn't show all the bends, and it's often hard to tell if a side stream is one that is marked on the map or not.  With this in mind I don't have high expectations of keeping an accurate location.

Top of mind is not being caught out by dark while in the stream or before crossing the slip. I'm thinking at the worst it could be five hours to get to Saddle Creek - consequently, it's a lunch pause rather than a lunch stop.

However, the going is surprisingly good.  Lots of crossings of course but no swims and only a few scrambles to avoid deeper pools. The biggest hassle is the slippery rocks. 

Further down valley there are frequent terraces where you can romp along and cut out bends.  There appears to be a bit of human traffic and I'm surprised not to see rubbish. I had thought there might be logging machinery and tracks but if there are I missed them.

Waitatapia Stream

At 3pm I figure I'm getting close to Saddle Creek. There's a point where the river is carving into the bank and is within metres of breaking through into a significantly new course. It turns out to be about seven minutes upstream from Saddle Creek. It would be interesting to see how this pans out.

Not much bank left

At about 3.15 my stacked stones from yesterday confirm I've reached Saddle Creek, although it is the largest tributary so not so hard to spot anyway. It's double pleasing to have my location correct and to have got down from the ridge quicker than I had feared. 

Not really a cairn

Angling up through the bush I find some swamp and healthy supplejack before stumbling on to the track for a breather and a snack. Just the one hurdle to go.

A bit after 4pm I'm standing at the end of the track on the edge of the chasm. From this angle the idea of working your way across the top of the slip looks insane. You'd be minced if you slide down through that.

There's an old trail that works up beside the edge. This eventually runs out and I bash up to find the route I came down yesterday. Looking carefully there are supplejack stems cut short long ago which give a path of least resistance - the only trouble is that these have a tendency to take you to where the top of the slip used to be.

Second slip

Eventually the cut ends lead me across above the slip and to a large tree - the going gets tricky again but I find a bit of trail through kiekie which drops steeply down to the crumbly bank I came up yesterday. 

Now it is just the familiar walk out in the late afternoon sun.  I take a pause at the swing bridge to admire the calm and unusually clear Otaki River - tiny rings of disturbance mark where trout are rising to hoover bugs off the surface.

There are fresh footprints on the track but I don't see anyone until I catch up with a couple of day walkers avec dog on the last flats - the first people since leaving the carpark.

Back at the car it's Just after 5pm - a bit over 9 hours from Island Forks by an interesting and varied route.

Post script

Altogether too long a break away from the hills. 

The slip just keeps getting bigger - at some stage it might be easier to drop to the river. I would advise not trying to go across the face of the slip until you've had a look at the fall out zone at the bottom. There are trails up and down the side but not so much towards the top and you need to keep your eyes peeled. It's quite a scramble in places but still the best option.

I think I'm getting better at the ridge line. The trail isn't always easy to follow but if you cast around there is often an easier way waiting to be found. As always, navigating up is way easier than down. The spur down was fine - I suspect most of the spurs south of 975 on the east side would be much of a muchness - it's just a question of choosing one that suits.

The Waitewaewae is perfectly navigable but I would be cautious if the flow is likely to be up. 

Island Forks Hut - a nice wee hut that doesn't get much sun. Mind your head.

I have a soft spot for the Waitewaewae headwaters - it feels like the wilderness, despite a lot of biodiversity activity going on.

Mick Stream - looks ok on the map but apparently a bit grovelly. Spur up was pretty good but don't make the same mistake as me finding the bottom.

Dropping into the Waitatapia headwaters - in retrospect I should have headed along the ridge in one direction or t'other to find a bit of a spur. An option is one of the saddles either side of the knob by Mick - you might even avoid the leatherwood. It's was a fairly short bit of unpleasantness though.

I liked the Waitatapia - it gets better further down and some of the flats would make for lovely camping. Real potential for an adventurous day trip from Otaki Forks but don't forget to factor the slip in.

Western Hutt River

The Tararuas aren't quite finished with me - a month away and apparently I was getting 'fretful.'

A bit of MTBing around Peppin Island (open one day a year), the Dunne Mt trail in Nelson, plus a relaxed jaunt up the Remutaka Incline just didn't cut the mustard. As the weekend approaches, the prospect of not getting out again becomes increasingly untenable.

It's the shortest day and rain is forecast on Sunday - I need (need!) something close to home, interesting and not involving rivers late on Sunday arvo.

I have always had the Western Hutt River tucked away for future reference. It's part of the Wellington drinking water catchment so it has been looked after and doesn't have formal tracks and huts. It's not part of the Forest Park but is contiguous with it.

When I first looked at it a few years back, the terrain looked too daunting - a steep sided river system, possibly requiring swimming. It was a well known tramping route but I wasn't game to tackle it on my own. With a little more experience though, I reckon I have a better idea of the likely size and disposition of the river, and am more confident about the proposition.

I check the Tararua Tramping Club's useful write up on the area and the Wellington Regional Council's river flow website.

Elder Hut is the obvious spot for Saturday night (on account of Renata Hut being rat infested) and to avoid a there-and-back trip, I work a diversion along Maymorn Ridge into the schedule.

Just to be clear, I am absolutely not chasing spot heights ... although pt 455 by Renata Stream was just too tempting to resist. 


What:      Navigation trip
Where:    Western Hutt River and Maymorn Ridge
When:      22-23 June 2019
Who:        Solo
Maps

The support crew waves good bye with the delicate parting suggestion that I be careful as I might not be at my physical peak given recent inactivity.

The sky is light enough not to need a torch as I leave the first carpark at Kaitoke water works at 7.20am.  It's cool with the merest suggestion of frost. I head past the camp facilities to the track across the stream and up the hill. The sky brightens during the steady plod up Clay Road.

View from top of Norbett Track

About 40 minutes later I'm at the top where the road disappears into a tunnel of trees before dropping steeply to the Eastern Hutt River.  Rather than get my feet wet I head up stream a few minutes to the swing bridge arriving 8.30. The foliage here is quite pretty with rimu and ferns as well as the usual other forest species - a caprosma beside the bridge is absolutely exploding with berries.

Eastern Hutt River

This is now new country for me. There's a good marked track that sidles down the true right to the junction between the Eastern and Western Hutt branches (8.40am). There's a catchment sign on my side and I get a good look at the Western branch that I will be coming down tomorrow.

Rather than have wet feet for the day I remove boots and pick my way across. By the time I've farfed about rebooting and filling up water 15 minutes have passed.

Western Hutt River on right - Hutt River ahead 

Looking back at the confluence

A short clamber sees me standing on the foot of the spur - there's a bit of a flat terrace before it starts climbing. The trail is generally pretty good but it's easy to lose when the spur widens. I don't notice any markers.


Towards the top there are a few clearings and I zigzag a bit to find the easiest way through. It gets quite flat towards the top but I know there is an old trig so don't worry too much about my exact location.

The trig is as I remember it - about 4m high, with the paint long gone and over topped by the bush. At 10.40 it's time for a pause, and a half-hearted look for geocaches.

There are sporadic trails along the ridge but it's wide and flat and many are overgrown so it's easy to wander off. I stick to the compass and make my way as best as I can.

I stumble on the trail I found last time - it's well marked and cut but it just seems to stop at the head of a wee creek.

There are a number of clearings that run across the ridge top - these seem to be in the process of being reclaimed by bracken and mosses.  One has more bare ground and I follow it north eastish down to the picnic table - still sitting incongruously below the ridge and in surprisingly good nick. I'm not quite sure how far along the ridge it is but I've put a jink on the map in the (very) approximate place.

After a spot of early lunch I make my way back to the ridge line. The sporadic open areas give views back and forward along the ridge. It's pretty featureless really.

Back towards Maymorn trig

Forward towards 770

Once the ridge drops into the wee saddle near 770 I finally leave the scrub behind. It's not bad as scrub goes, with lots of dracophyllum and not much leather wood - however it's nice to be able to potter along in goblin forest.

Nice but undistinguished forest

I'm surprised to find that I recognise the flat top of the knob past 770 - the same distinctive branch catches my eye as last time. This is the point to take a bearing and drop directly into the saddle.

The bearing branch

Past the saddle it's not quite so definitive gauging progress towards Pukeruru, but I find I needn't worry as there is a cut clearing with a survey pipe. It looks like someone has created a clearing for helicopters.

Pukeruru ... and foot

Pukeruru

Now comes the tricky bit. The ridges here are broad and flat and, I discover, have more than a little wetland. I find some signs of old cut trails but quickly lose them again. In the end I just follow my nose up the broad and gentle slope until there is no more 'up'. It's pretty open.

Coming off a broad top it is very easy to miss the target - I take a bearing slightly to the left of the spur I want, in order to traverse right and pick it up when it becomes better defined.  A pest control trail crosses my route and looks like it might drop in a vaguely useful direction - I'm momentarily tempted but a glance at the map suggests it will drop me into a side stream. In this country that means steep, slippery, and choked with rotten logs.

At 670m I dive off the spur to follow a bearing down a steep scramble to the junction opposite 455. I am quietly pleased when I arrive bang on target.

Renata Stream drains a fair chunk of real estate so is a good size. A little upstream some afternoon sun has found its way to the valley floor, hinting at open spaces just around the next corner (but probably not). It's 2.10pm so I have a wee break to top up water and get across the stream with dry feet.

It's a sharp wee scramble to Pt 455, which is a pleasant mossy spot to sit and check the map. I'm conscious that daylight is running out but I reckon I should make the Ridge Track before dark.

It's a climb like many others - steady and no problems under the canopy. Around Pt 830 there are patches of scrub/regenerating bush which slows things down, but it is not that bad. Higher up more clearings develop, separated by belts of regrowth. Once again, I find myself zigzagging to find the path of least resistance. The late afternoon sun is picking up the russets and golds in the foliage - but for the chill in the air, it could be a summer evening.

Somewhere around Pt 830

The vegetation is noticeably wetter towards the top - it hasn't rained so there must have been a frost that the sun hasn't touched for most of the day.

Just after 4.10pm the sun is still above the horizon as I emerge onto the track just before the saddle to Renata. The snowy tops of the Kaikouras hover above the horizon with Wellington and the Hutt Valley somewhere in the haze in between.

From Renata (I think)
Elder is the dark lump at centre just below horizon

I attempt to send a text to say I'm back in civilised territory but my cellphone throws a sulk and pretends that the 70% power remaining has somehow evaporated. I have a charger pack so can sort it out at the hut.

The track is a pretty one; through goblin forest, and occasionally breaking out for a view. There are no recent footprints in the sphagnum moss, which has the consistency of runny porridge.

It's about 5km along the ridge to the hut with a good bit of up and down. I plod on for as long as I can before cracking out the torch around 5.15pm. The last 200 vertical meters to the hut are somewhat slow.

I think it's a little after 6pm when the loo looms up on my right and then the hut. Candle light signals occupancy - I hope there's a bunk left.

Elder Hut is a tidy wee four bunker. No heat source, but well built so a few bodies will warm it up. It's also nicely situated - on a clear evening the western horizon glows as the evening fades; the lights of Otaki break the gloom in the north and, beyond ranks of dark ridges, the Hutt Valley and Wellington blaze in the south west. Right now though it's a little claggy and downright chilly, so I don't hang about on the off chance of a view.

Dan is from Auckland - he is kicking around the Tararuas and has come up from Cone Hut today. He had thought I might be part of a group of four that he heard was heading this way - I'm thinking it's unlikely we'll see anyone else this time of night.

We get chatting as I doff wet kit and set about warming up. It turns out he takes decent blocks of leave and has developed the art of finding his way to interesting tramping territory around the country by public transport and thumb.

It's after 8pm when the other party show up. The four bunk hut suddenly feels very small.

Mark, Ben, Matt and Chris are from Tokomaru and turn out to be good company. They hooked up when their kids were at day care and have undertaken some challenging Tararua trips, although it's Chris' first. He's a bit quiet - I'm not surprised as they have come across the Southern Crossing from Otaki Forks. A fair old climb, followed by the tops, then the final insult of the knee trembling descent from Aston. With the last 2-3 hours in the dark.

Dan and I sit in awe as they unload impressive amounts of food and alcohol. It's a very convivial evening as they share cheese, crackers and salami washed down with a selection of RTDs.

It turns out that they've picked up this blog and appreciated some of the trip reports - it's good to think that they might have use beyond propping up my memory and worrying the family.

In the morning, Dan is planning a leisurely start and I wait in pit to give the party free run at getting up and out.

They plan to head down to Renata Hut, Waiotauru Hut and back out to Otaki Forks. I wouldn't be surprised if they finish in the dark again, as there is an awful lot of walking on old 4WD tracks that can be pretty hard on the body.

It must be around 9am by the time I've sorted my life out, said goodbye to Dan, and taken a bearing for the spur behind the hut. It turns out there is a cairn marking the start and a well cut track. This suddenly gets hard to follow around 1070m, then comes and goes.

The spur is generally pretty good and has clearly been traveled before but I find I have to keep an eye on the map and take bearings to avoid slipping off line.

I potter on down to 700m (9.30ish) where more blue triangles turn up - these must be Regional Council pest control markers as this is part of the Hutt water catchment.


At the bottom (10.10) it's trying to start to rain so the river bed gets steadily slicker as I head down valley. The water is clear though, and at normal flow.

Bottom of spur

It takes about an hour to work my way down river to Renata Forks. There are a few spots where it's a choice of either a short swim or a scramble - nothing problematic and I chose the scramble every time. I'm pretty happy with progress, although acutely aware there is a lot more river to navigate and the park gates close at 5pm.

There's more deep pools to get around and the river gets bigger. Towards the bottom some of the crossings start requiring a bit of care but mostly not over mid-thigh. It feels a bit slower going down to Hutt Forks - arriving 1.30pm.

Back at Hutt Forks

Last view of the Western Hutt

The rain has pretty much cleared - but I'm soaked from the waist down and damp from the waist up. I cross the Eastern Hutt rather than walk up to the bridge (there's a sign at the spot) and start the climb up the clay road. By 2.15 I'm at the top and at the car by 2.40 - ample time for the gates.

Postscript

This was a really enjoyable wee trip. Saturday morning had some beautiful bush, tricky navigation and a rewarding wee climb up to Renata Ridge. I know I bang on about being relieved when I find an empty hut, but the company was good and I learnt a thing or two. The spur from the hut was a nice route, as was the river trip. All up, it put me in a far better frame of mind for the coming week.

For future reference, the splits for the trip out were: bottom of Elder Hut spur to Renata Forks 1 hour, 2.20 more to Hutt Forks, 45 minutes from there to the top of the road and 25 more to the car.  I think I left the hut around 9am so all up - a bit under 6 hours.

A couple of new spot-heights visited but that's completely irrelevant.

The fabulous Tararua earthquake lake

Kaikoura has a dramatically changed landscape - new land ripped from the sea, hills reshaped and roads smashed. And the Tararuas have an earthquake lake. We think it was from the same earthquake but nobody is really sure. Whatever - it's our earthquake lake. Although some may rather uncharitably apply quotation marks and even call it an "earthquake" pond.

Ever since hearing about it, I've intended to get in and have a look. Not least because there is a beautiful looking spur visible from Bull Mound that runs down from the Beehives on the Southern Crossing. There are also a few spot-heights in the valley, and the river itself is probably worth a visit.

It's not the sort of place I want to go on my own with winter river flows so it's just been sitting quietly on the back burner annoying the hell out of me.

What:   Navigation trip to earthquake lake, visit upper Tauherenikau and knock off some spot heights
When:  12-13 January 2018
Who:     Solo
Where:  Southern Tararuas
Map:      NZ Topo map

Arrow indicates approx. location of the lake
Have left off most of the boring track bits

There are a few options for the weekend and I don't make up my mind until midday Friday - despite being packed. The support crew is nothing if not accommodating and agrees to an after work drop-off at Otaki Forks.

The trouble with being a bit disorganised is that you forget stuff. Arriving at the road end I discover it's my belt - a shoelace is called into service as an effective if not elegant solution. Later, I discover I also forgot my lunch cheese.  Fortunately my packing list ensured nothing important was neglected.

Repurposing a shoe lace

Posing for the camera - Judd Ridge to right

The plan is to get to Kime Hut in the dark. Departing at 7.20pm I reckon I'll be there before 11.

It's a warm and calm evening as I amble on up. There's not a lot to progress but I know that when you get to the clearing with a view of Kapanui's rounded silhouette it's about 10 minutes to Field Hut.
 
The hut is empty and the log book full. I squeeze a few words in amidst some gormless twat's cribbage score inside the back cover and head for Kime. At 8:55 the light is waning but it should be better on the tops. Rounding Table Top though, there's clag on the ridge above and the wind is coming up.

Sometimes the Tararuas will give you a bit of a slap to see if you're paying attention. The clag thickens just above Dennan (1200m) and although not cold, the rising wind and mist whips heat away. To keep myself amused I've been thinking about types of risk (actual, perceived, managed, residual, acceptable ...) but the drop in light and temperature (and my glasses misting up) prompts a bit of a pause and attention to the risks at hand.

Hunkering down, I crack out the light and review the map. The route is very familiar but the pair from Te Papa that died in a blizzard are always front of mind up here.

The top of the ridge is wide and rounded. There are snow stakes with reflectors and a pretty good ground trail but there are also false trails and lots of scope to wander in circles. The clag is thick and the poles are only visible from about 10 paces away - with about 30 paces between poles this means pausing at each, taking a bearing and following the trail that leads in that direction.

It's slow progress but goes smoothly. I'm not aware that I've reached the hut until I blunder into the sign. It's 10:20pm and there are about 10 punters already in their pits. I get myself sorted in the vestibule and creep in to claim a mattress.

One party is up at 5am and away before 6. I'm a bit more leisurely and get away about 7:15 before the large group that came through from Kaitoke yesterday.

Kime - claggy but good visibility

Half an hour later I'm on Mt Hector in the usual conditions.

Kime in its element

Descending from Hector along the Southern Crossing I count the lumps. The second beehive is in thick clag so I take a bearing off the ridge and hope I'm dropping on to the spur. All good - the spur has some rocky knobs that can be scrambled over or sidled and fairly soon I've dropped out of a cloud ceiling at 1400m (with eddies dropping it to 1300m). The spur ahead is revealed and distant slopes catch the sun.

Looking down spur from just below the Beehives

Looking back up the spur to the Beehives

Looking down to the knob on the spur at 1280m

There's a few rocky scrambles that require care but overall it's a delightful wander down with some ground trail in places.

There's a knob marked on the map at 1280m (a trail sidles to the south of the knob). The main spur continues but a substantive side spur splits off SSE - I suspect others follow the main spur although it looks very steep at the bottom.

My spur is clearly visible from above and there's even a faint marks in the herbs underfoot leading down. I pause to relate the terrain to the map and fix it in my head.

My spur

The spur is beautiful. Mossy goblin forest, with beech and leatherwood then beech, totara and other stuff ... and lots of moss. It is straight and well defined with a pretty good trail in places - probably mostly animal. The trail breaks up near the bottom where I arrive at a wee terrace to fossick about for a way down to the river. It has taken about 30 minutes to get from the top to the bushline and another 50 to the river.

My spur

This is the Tauherenikau River and I'm going to be in it for a few kilometers. Although a bit larger than I was expecting it is really just a large stream. I figure the flow is a bit above average summer flow.

It's generally pretty good going - the usual occasional scrambles around deep pools and over log jambs. The plan is to head down stream to approach the earthquake lake from above and hopefully find a way through or around.

It's less than 15 minutes from the spur to the lake. The water level is a bit lower than when the photo on Stuff was taken but otherwise looks the same - steep bushy sides, clear deep water and a jumble of rocks blocking the river.

The 'Earthquake' lake
The water used to be up to the base of the foreground rock

Up to my waist in it

The flow is gentle and the bottom clean. An exploratory wade determines that I won't get through with my pack on. By dint of feeling my way on tiptoe I get through with my pack on my shoulder and the water just below neck level. It would be a painful grovel to try to work through the bush.

The massive slip has blocked the river, with trees smashed in among the rocks. The river is slowly washing away its foot and the opposite bank but there is plenty more material to come down. Looking at the modest size of the 'lake' and the mass of the slip I don't think there is danger of a sudden break through, but with the unstable slip and huge gashes that falling rocks have ripped in the logs it's not a place I want to hang around.

The dam

Last view of the lake

Looking up the slip

 Below the slip the river tumbles down through rocks and a jumble of logs. It's taken 20 minutes to get through (and take photos) and I'm keen to get moving as I'm soaked and starting to shiver.

Log jumble below the slip

It's almost 2km and an hour to my next junction. The river tumbles through deep pools and an occasional slot but it's all navigable. At the intersection with the stream off Hell's Gate it's 10:55 - I stop for a bite and to plot the next move. The aim is to get to 892 and follow the spur down to 686. The slope up to 892 looks steep and little delineated.

At the first stream off the side of the side stream (following me?) I take a bearing and scramble up through the bush. It's the usual mucky lower level but pretty good going higher up. I note there are lot of Phyllocladus sp in the understory - I'm not sure which, but assume it is Mountain Toatoa. It's an interesting tree as the leaves aren't (they are flattened stems).

On the spur at 892 (11:55) I could imagine that people have been down this way but it's not that obvious and it is often necessary to take bearings as the spur top is wide in places and the shape not that obvious.

Typical bush on the spur

686 turns out to be on a wide flat top with an open under-story. Every now and then a passing patch of sun lances down to the floor - time for lunch.

From here there's little to choose between headings as the spur end is rounded. I opt for the most direct route down river.  It's easy going as there are an awful lot of animal trails.

This is the one of my assessment points - the river is likely to be much bigger and could be challenging - so much so that it could force a retreat back up a spur to Bull Mound. I peer through the trees to see what it looks like as I approach the bottom (1:14). It's noticeably larger but the valley floor much wider with a gentler slope so Plan A is go. The trick now is to count the side streams and not miss Josephson Creek.

The Tauherenikau looking much more river like

Pt 596

Rounding a corner a very steep knob swings into view - that's my next target.  The map shows some very closely spaced contours - so I study it carefully as I approach.

It's about 2pm as I clamber into the mouth of Josephson Creek to find a spot to start climbing the knob. Animal trails zigzag a way through the unclimable bits but it is hand-over-hand up through low scrub onto a sharp spur. Very steep but within my comfort zone.

Part way up I just about run into a deer rear. The stag is about 5m away and my 'Hey!' doesn't cause it to run away - it just turns to look, pauses and then ambles off. I hope they never forget they are vegetarians as it was a lot bigger than me and had the advantage from the terrain.

The top of the knob and a sit down. No view but there were some nice wee spots on the way up. I don't fancy down-climbing what I just came up so take a bearing south to swing around onto another spur where the bluffy bits seem to open out a little. It is a steep scramble through forest but again, animal trails help me avoid a creek slot and get me to the bottom.

The final crossing

This little spot-height excursion (exertion?) whilst fun has used an hour and there is now a 600m bash up to Bull Mound to contend with. I say good bye to the Tauherenikau and find a way into the bush.

Normally, the top of the spur provides the best travel but it is quite rounded and I can't see any evidence of people so I watch where the animals have been and follow, despite the somewhat meandering course. It seems to work well - particularly in the lower reaches where they have worn benches in the shingly floor just off the spur. However, I'm not feeling so sprightly and avoid looking at watch or altimeter.

After a long while, the slope lessens and rounds and the trees shorten and are interrupted by bands of scrub. Still no sign of human trails. Eventually the direction of the slope is barely perceptible and I break into a large clearing (huge) - this look familiar - the track must be around here somewhere.

It's nice to be out of the bush. I can see the Beehives and Mt Hector lurking in clag and cloud is piling in from the north west. It is sunny in the Wairarapa and calm here. Bull is a rounded top ridge below the bush line but with extensive boggy herb field and stunted bush. It's a good place to spot deer and I startle two today. My spur from this morning comes into view.

Hector in cloud, Beehives just to left
The knob at 1280m is at centre (faint 'A' in the middle of photo)
My spur is the left arm of it

North along Bull Mound, Tararua Peaks on horizon
Neill Ridge in middle distance

After hooking up with the Bull Mound track I wander along enjoying the openness. And thinking about the number of people likely to be at Alpha Hut. The plan is to exit via Quoin Ridge tomorrow, but the only piece of new territory that way is a tiny section from about the 700m contour down to Hutt Forks. I weigh it up and find it wanting - it can wait for another day.  If I put the hammer down along Marchant Ridge the road end should be achievable not too long after dark.

Fortunately Bull Mound has reception, although my cell phone is a little sulky about the moisture from the lake (despite a clip seal bag). A few texts to the support crew confirms the plan change. Right - it's about 5pm - I need a drink, a bite and a sit down then better get going.

The change in plan means that the water that would have seen me easily to Alpha is less than needed. A trickle draining the swampy hill crosses the track near 1107 and provides the solution - albeit, like Muldoon's view of Auckland in the '70's ... somewhat browner than I would wish.

DOC has done a great job of clearing the Marchant track - branches and deadfall have been cut through and vegetation cleared. A bit of mud but as near perfect as you could wish. I nurse the body along watching the time.

NZ bush will usually have a few blowflies hurtling about - most noticeably on hot days. There are a few about now and for some reason they find my head irresistible. Possibly all that delicious sweat - or it might be that the ripeness of my bush shirt is a carrion call they just can't ignore. Either way, the recurring pattern becomes the sound of a fly blundering past then a brief pause as it's tiny brain registers - 'Hellooo, what was that!' and it swings around to attempt a landing from behind. It's too hot to wear a hat and soon becomes infuriating. Must be tired.

Last of the sun catches 656 on the Dobson loop track (probably)

Finally, the long Marchant is over and the track turns sharply left to sidle and drop to the Dobson turn off (a lot of windfall cleaned out through here). Then the interminable saunter down from 650m to 500m. The evening sun slants in through the trees accentuating the greens and golds.

From the final descent at Pt 529 the track hasn't been cleared so there's a bit of gorse to contend with. It gets dimmer and dimmer but I'm determined not to get the headtorch out, just making it through the last forest section by Kiwi Ranch in the gloom. 9:20pm - and all milestones met.

Wrap up

A tiring day at 14 hours but very satisfying. The 'earthquake' 'lake' is hardly spectacular but is pretty much exactly what I anticipated. The level of the lake is likely to vary and I wouldn't rely on being able to wade it (it should be an easy pack-float though). It's great to have got to it and the upper Tauherenikau is well worth visiting.

The three spot-heights were a bonus that tested navigation and agility. As for the morning's spur - it's almost tempting to repeat that part of the trip. Plenty more spot-heights yet though.

Relatively few injuries but a full day afterwards making old man noises every time I moved. Kit all performed well with the exception of my 'new' gaiters which, at the current rate of depreciation, seem likely to last 5% as long as my last set.