Covid lockdown has enforced a long separation from the hills. Since my last trip the seasons have changed and I haven't got any fitter. I've tried to keep a bit of shape with long walks around the Hutt Valley hills but it really isn't the same.
I finalise a trip idea on Friday afternoon and chuck a pack and intentions sheet together. With the social distancing guidelines in place for huts I also throw my microlite tent in.
The plan is to get across to Colenso Hut via Parks Peak and Rangiwhakamataku. This proves to be way too optimistic so it ends up being a loop of the ridges above the Makororo River.
What: Tramp and a bit of nav trip into upper Ruahine Range
Where: Makaroro River and tops
When: 16-17 May 2020
Who: Solo
Maps
The 4am alarm is a bit of a shock to the system but the roads are empty as I head north. There's cloud on the Remutaka hill and intermittent drizzle.
Wakarara Road is a left turn off State Highway 50 then a long route through farmland to where the Makaroro River exits the range. It's light now but promising to be a damp day.
A couple of chaps are gearing up for a day walk to Gold Creek and we chat from a distance as I get myself organised and away by 8.10. I catch up with them at the river crossing but decide to stop to remove my boots so don't see them again.
Across the river there's a ute parked a little way up the 4WD track - the bonnet is a little warm so they've come in this morning. With the dog crates on the back I'm hoping they are hunting in the nearby forest and I'll be quickly out of range - but I'm pleased to be wearing my flouro 'don't shoot me' vest.
On the terrace I join the forestry road for 600m before turning right at the DOC signs for the track to Parks Peak. About 8.40 I leave the road and head into 60 year old regrowth on old logging trails, the rain is steady and the forest drips.
The intersection is marked where to turn left and start to climb - gently at first and then steadily. I'm immediately struck by the profusion of fungi all over the forest floor and track. I'd been hearing so much about the Hawkes Bay drought that this is a bit of a surprise. I guess that the warm easterly winds have been holding their moisture until they hit the range and the fungi are making the most of the conditions that the farmers would kill for.
A bit after 10.20 I come across a DOC sign pointing to Barlow Hut. Another surprise - there's no track marked on the map but it makes sense to have a route down the obvious spur linking Barlow and Parks Peak huts.
The track meanders along and up and down and through wee clearings. It feels familiar as it is similar to the track north of Parks Peak which I've traveled a couple of times on trapping trips. And like previous trips I get to chat to some whiteheads that take some exception to my presence.
Around 11.30, across the ridge top clearing, Parks Peak hut is a little blurred by the cloud. I'm interested to see what the log book indicates and whether DOC has been around since the lockdown started.
The hut is very tidy and the last entry is 22 March. There are regular entries from WTMC trapping trips and, as with other parts of the range, there are a few regular names that are carrying the lions share of effort for the local lines.
I'm pretty wet by now and not feeling 100% so start thinking about activating my contingency plans - it's clear that getting across to Colenso is off the cards.
It's midday when I leave the hut and head for the track down to the Makaroro River. The first thing I notice is that the old DOC 250 box traps are still there but shiny new A24s have been installed. If this means that WTMC need to visit less often that will be a big saving.
About 200m above the bottom I head SW off the track to pick up a large flat spur (12.50). On the map it looks like good going but possibly a little gnarly at the bottom.
It proves to be hard work. There's a lot of undergrowth and deadfall, and the flat top makes keeping a good line a bit tricky. The wet undergrowth soon has me completely saturated. I'm trying to work out whether the pleasure of getting out and off track is greater than the aggravation of actually doing it in these conditions.
Towards the bottom it gets pretty steep and I drop right to follow the edge of an erosion chute. The stones I dislodge rattle away out of sight with a slight pause before I hear them splash in the river. I decide to leave the chute and take my chances clambering down through the bush.
At 2.55 I'm standing beside the small, clear running river - this is my decision point. Continue to plan 700 vertical meters up the spur opposite to Kylie Biv through unknown bush conditions; ignominious retreat down river to Barlow Hut; windy probably gorgy route similar distance up river to Upper Makororo Hut.
The thought of a possible battle through leatherwood after a long uphill grind decides me - up river it is.
It's not far on the map but it takes 1hr 50. The river is windy and there are a few pools that you either clamber around or wade up to chest deep. I slip attempting a clamber and come down on my chest on the rock but just manage not to take a dip. No damage seems to have been done despite my cell phone being in my top pocket.
The highlight is about half an hour from the hut - a distinctive breathy whistle. A pair of whio don't let me come very close before they take off up river and I don't see them again.
The hut resolutely refuses to appear around every bend but eventually I recognise the terrace ahead and the crossing point for the track. Gathering an armful of drift wood I squelch out of the river and head for the hut - it's 4.35 and I'm more than ready to call it quits for the day.
I don't usually light fires at huts but today I make an exception. Someone has kindly stacked some dry kindling inside and there's plenty of wood in the foyer. I make a sortie for some more and settle in.
The fire box is a delight, it starts instantly and is soon roaring - with a hissing counterpoint as wet clothes drip onto the hot plate.
The last logged visit was in late Feb and the log shows a familiar weighting of WTMC names on trapping trips.
There's little to be done but eat dinner, hatch a plan for the next day and crawl into bed for 12 glorious hours of sleep. Rain drums on the roof periodically, interspersed with the plunking of drips from the branches above.
I decide I must be off colour as, in the morning I'm still aching and sleep well into the daylight. The morning ritual finishes with leaving the makings of a fire for the next person and the traditional sweep. I get away about 8.10 - about an hour later than I would have liked.
The trap line runs up Totara spur - I've come down this way once before so it is familiar. The A24s have been installed up here too - I note a weasel tail sticking out of one of the old traps but can't open the box to reset it - I must remember to pack a posidrive.
It's a steady grind up through pretty forest - totara and beech - and more fungi.
photos
Shortly after breaking out of the bush (into clag), I see a snail shell - only this one has an occupant. Like most people I see lots of shells but I've never seen a full one out on the tops like this.
The genus Powelliphanta is widespread in wetter parts of central New Zealand with at least 21 species recognised. You've probably heard about the rare species that was stored in fridges when their habitat was destroyed by mining on the West Coast. Powelliphanta are carnivores, slurping worms up like spaghetti, and slugs. Mainly nocturnal, they live in leaf mould or under logs, emerging at night to rain terror on annelids – so seeing one like this above the bushline is pretty unusual.
A bit after 9.50 I reach the sign that marks the top of the spur. It's cold and there's rain in the light wind. I stop briefly to pull on gloves and decide to follow my nose rather than fumble with compass and map. This works out fine and I find the sign to Kylie Biv on a gentle knob promising 10 minutes down to the shelter.
It's pretty much half an hour to Kylie Biv from the top of totara spur - so that DOC sign is bang on (it's now 10.25). The hut is an all-over cheerful blue that emerges from the cloud like a tarn reflecting the sky - only the sky aint blue.
This is a traditional two person Biv and probably has a lovely view. The last visit was 8 Feb and there were only 10 recorded visits by groups in the whole of 2019.
I fill in the log and regroup. It's new territory now - along the range, over Tupari and south to Te Atua Mahuru. It's cold, wet and clagged in. Periodically the wind picks up and pushes cold wet drizzle into my left ear.
It's mostly reasonable going - I don't bother with the map much as I know I'll recognise the cairn at the top of Te Atua Mahuru a bit over 4km away. I quickly lose track of the bumps and occasionally wander off line a little.
At Te Atua Mahuru it's getting colder if anything so I keep plodding along and don't stop for lunch. This is now the short stretch I traveled on the way to Colenso Hut. I pause to drop a few more rocks on the cairn at the top of the spur down to the stream.
The ridge is now flat with some quite large tarns - then the short climb to Maroparea. Last time here the weather was the same and the ridge is pretty featureless so it's a bit arbitrary electing where the top is.
Topping a wee rise, a falcon takes wing from about 8m away and cruises back past me to disappear behind the ridge. A few minutes later another one sits on a rock to the side of the ridge and watches me out of sight.
I muff the drop off Maroparea - heading too far west past the high point before taking a bearing for the ridge. The slope is featureless and in the clag I have already dropped too far when I start to get uneasy that the flat spot ahead is just too small. In the clag I can't make sense of the landscape so just have to suck it up and trudge back to the top.
On the retake things go to plan and I am soon on the broad top following faint trails on familiar terrain. Over Orupu - shingle slide down the other side - ridge veers right and drops across the top of eroded faces to the saddle before the last short climb. There's a bit of scrub before the turnoff to the Biv - I find a slightly better way through this time but still can't claim to have found the best route.
The warratahs marking the track to the hut are reassuring and mark the last of the tops travel.
It's 3.35 as I thump Sparrowhawk Biv door open and stand dripping in the foyer.
I didn't note the time I left Kylie but reckon it's taken about 4 and a half hours. Longer than it should due to the time wasted at Maroparea and my slow pace.
The last visit was 21 March and there have only been four visits since I came through on 23 Feb.
I don't stick around for lunch as I'm conscious of the time and it's still a long way to go. I would prefer to be at the bottom before it gets dark but am comfortable about the forestry roads by torchlight. It's probably about 3.50 when I head out.
The track drops quickly for a start, over a wee knob, another drop then a long flat section.
The rain starts again as dark starts to fall - about 5.15 I crack out the torch as it is starting to get treacherously slippery. The bottom of the spur is crumbling on both sides and requires a bit of care but is at least familiar territory.
Just after 5.30 pm I'm standing at the mouth of Gold Creek - rain drops streak through the torchlight and I'm trying to work out how much the river might have risen with the rain.
There are two strands to the river and neither of them are problematic so I am soon scrambling up the crumbling slope opposite, through sodden bush.
At the top the old road meanders along the terrace and soon pops onto the modern forestry road. Head down, I follow the pool of light ticking off the first bend, the dip to the stream, the track intersection then the turn off to drop to the river. Unsurprisingly, the ute is gone.
Across the river and through the dark paddock where glowing eyes and thudding hooves indicate that the cattle are reacting to the light.
It's after 6.30 when I chuck sopping gear into rubbish bags and turn my mind to the long road home.
The route up to Parks Peak is pleasant - there's a bit of over growth at the bottom but hopefully DOC will get through and clear that before long. It took about 3 hours 25 which could easily be trimmed. I was surprised to see a marked turnoff to Barlow Hut which would be well worth an explore.
The spur to the river from 970 is ok but not really worth the hassle - I don't think there is much reason to follow it which might explain the lack of trails.
I would still like to head up (or down) the spur to Kylie Biv. No idea what it is like but it looks like a logical route to Barlow Hut.
The river route is slow but fine - it's a narrow winding course with a few pools where you have to get quite wet or undertake gymnastic scrambles. It's marked as expert tramper only and I wouldn't tackle it with the river up.
Upper Makororo Hut is a standard old 4 bedder. You've got a bit of a climb into and out from it so it probably gets a bit less use than Parks Peak. However, with the access problems in the west this is probably one of the logical ways through to Ruahine Corner Hut.
Totara spur has pretty bush and is a nice wee route. The flat, rounded tops can be tricky in the clag but it soon narrows off heading south so no dramas.
Kylie Biv - two beds and a little bit off the beaten track. Someone has given it a bit of TLC so hopefully it will be around for a good time yet.
Not much to say about the range - mostly straightforward but best to do when you have a view. There are a few bits where you can drift off line if you're not paying attention. The top of Maroparea should be completely straightforward but it's deceptive. Coming from Te Atua Mahuru I think the trick is to make sure you don't go too far past pt 1511 before taking the bearing off the top. Coming from the saddle to the west I reckon the trick is to climb above the scrub and then up a bit before taking a bearing across and around the slope to the big flat bit south of Maroparea.
A bit after 9.50 I reach the sign that marks the top of the spur. It's cold and there's rain in the light wind. I stop briefly to pull on gloves and decide to follow my nose rather than fumble with compass and map. This works out fine and I find the sign to Kylie Biv on a gentle knob promising 10 minutes down to the shelter.
It's pretty much half an hour to Kylie Biv from the top of totara spur - so that DOC sign is bang on (it's now 10.25). The hut is an all-over cheerful blue that emerges from the cloud like a tarn reflecting the sky - only the sky aint blue.
This is a traditional two person Biv and probably has a lovely view. The last visit was 8 Feb and there were only 10 recorded visits by groups in the whole of 2019.
I fill in the log and regroup. It's new territory now - along the range, over Tupari and south to Te Atua Mahuru. It's cold, wet and clagged in. Periodically the wind picks up and pushes cold wet drizzle into my left ear.
It's mostly reasonable going - I don't bother with the map much as I know I'll recognise the cairn at the top of Te Atua Mahuru a bit over 4km away. I quickly lose track of the bumps and occasionally wander off line a little.
At Te Atua Mahuru it's getting colder if anything so I keep plodding along and don't stop for lunch. This is now the short stretch I traveled on the way to Colenso Hut. I pause to drop a few more rocks on the cairn at the top of the spur down to the stream.
The ridge is now flat with some quite large tarns - then the short climb to Maroparea. Last time here the weather was the same and the ridge is pretty featureless so it's a bit arbitrary electing where the top is.
Topping a wee rise, a falcon takes wing from about 8m away and cruises back past me to disappear behind the ridge. A few minutes later another one sits on a rock to the side of the ridge and watches me out of sight.
I muff the drop off Maroparea - heading too far west past the high point before taking a bearing for the ridge. The slope is featureless and in the clag I have already dropped too far when I start to get uneasy that the flat spot ahead is just too small. In the clag I can't make sense of the landscape so just have to suck it up and trudge back to the top.
On the retake things go to plan and I am soon on the broad top following faint trails on familiar terrain. Over Orupu - shingle slide down the other side - ridge veers right and drops across the top of eroded faces to the saddle before the last short climb. There's a bit of scrub before the turnoff to the Biv - I find a slightly better way through this time but still can't claim to have found the best route.
The warratahs marking the track to the hut are reassuring and mark the last of the tops travel.
It's 3.35 as I thump Sparrowhawk Biv door open and stand dripping in the foyer.
I didn't note the time I left Kylie but reckon it's taken about 4 and a half hours. Longer than it should due to the time wasted at Maroparea and my slow pace.
The last visit was 21 March and there have only been four visits since I came through on 23 Feb.
I don't stick around for lunch as I'm conscious of the time and it's still a long way to go. I would prefer to be at the bottom before it gets dark but am comfortable about the forestry roads by torchlight. It's probably about 3.50 when I head out.
The track drops quickly for a start, over a wee knob, another drop then a long flat section.
The rain starts again as dark starts to fall - about 5.15 I crack out the torch as it is starting to get treacherously slippery. The bottom of the spur is crumbling on both sides and requires a bit of care but is at least familiar territory.
Just after 5.30 pm I'm standing at the mouth of Gold Creek - rain drops streak through the torchlight and I'm trying to work out how much the river might have risen with the rain.
There are two strands to the river and neither of them are problematic so I am soon scrambling up the crumbling slope opposite, through sodden bush.
At the top the old road meanders along the terrace and soon pops onto the modern forestry road. Head down, I follow the pool of light ticking off the first bend, the dip to the stream, the track intersection then the turn off to drop to the river. Unsurprisingly, the ute is gone.
Across the river and through the dark paddock where glowing eyes and thudding hooves indicate that the cattle are reacting to the light.
It's after 6.30 when I chuck sopping gear into rubbish bags and turn my mind to the long road home.
Postscript
It's definitely knocking on the door of winter - the shorter daylight hours and cold have to be factored into trip planning.The route up to Parks Peak is pleasant - there's a bit of over growth at the bottom but hopefully DOC will get through and clear that before long. It took about 3 hours 25 which could easily be trimmed. I was surprised to see a marked turnoff to Barlow Hut which would be well worth an explore.
The spur to the river from 970 is ok but not really worth the hassle - I don't think there is much reason to follow it which might explain the lack of trails.
I would still like to head up (or down) the spur to Kylie Biv. No idea what it is like but it looks like a logical route to Barlow Hut.
The river route is slow but fine - it's a narrow winding course with a few pools where you have to get quite wet or undertake gymnastic scrambles. It's marked as expert tramper only and I wouldn't tackle it with the river up.
Upper Makororo Hut is a standard old 4 bedder. You've got a bit of a climb into and out from it so it probably gets a bit less use than Parks Peak. However, with the access problems in the west this is probably one of the logical ways through to Ruahine Corner Hut.
Totara spur has pretty bush and is a nice wee route. The flat, rounded tops can be tricky in the clag but it soon narrows off heading south so no dramas.
Kylie Biv - two beds and a little bit off the beaten track. Someone has given it a bit of TLC so hopefully it will be around for a good time yet.
The Sparrowhawk track is a good route and pretty - the bottom is falling apart a bit so I don't suggest doing it in the dark and wet.
I must have come down on my chest a bit harder than I thought as it's a bit sore for the following week - particularly coughing or laughing. However, all up, a good loop trip although I'd drop the spur bit in the middle.
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