Pioneer Trail - Sunday 14 July

It's a lot more comfortable on the lounge floor than in the tent and in the morning the Nelson sun warms Claire's verandah.  Consequently it is a leisurely start at 0920.  On the way up Waimea Road a succession of vintage cars rattle past then its on to the old rail way through Stoke and more suburban streets until emerging at the roundabout for the Appleby Highway.  Travelling up SH 6 to Wakefield into a mild southerly more vintage cars pass, some of which had passed earlier.

It's good to turn left out of the fast (and not so fast) traffic into Eighty Eight Valley Road just on the South side of Wakefield (I could have had a bit less main road travel if I hadn't missed the Higgin's Road turn off in Brightwater).  Eighty Eight Valley Road is a quiet country road following valley flats before a few low hills. About now the wind turns from mild to firm and it starts to be hard work, the clouds gradually squeeze out the sun and it gets cooler. A group of 12 motorbikes roar past but otherwise traffic is light.

It gets a bit busier after the left at the T junction at Hiwipango.  This is also the start of a steady climb into a wind that is gaining in strength. Over the top (429m) there's a cruise west down Reay's Valley to turn south (up the Motueka River) at Golden Downs (290m). The wind is now strong with some gusts causing a bit of grief with the steering; the tent roll catches the wind and flips the bars towards the ditch or the middle of the road.

After 4-5Km the road leaves the Motueka River and starts another climb up Long Gully to 641m and a drop to Kikiwa (487m) to follow up the Motupiko River and finally climb to Tophouse saddle at 726m.

During these hops between catchments, various good reasons start presenting themselves for a stop; adding more layers, a drink, a nibble, and at one point a bit of a lie-down using the carrier bag as a pillow. The long flats become a struggle into the wind and the hills an interminable grind. On the positive side the sun comes out and does it's best to warm my back. Although this stretch of road is regarded as a good ride my memories will not be favourable. With the head down there isn't much time to look at the scenery and when I do there seems to be is a lot of forestry and farming. But the tops draw the eye; there's snow on the near hills and in the distance the Travers and St Arnaud Ranges are pure alpine beauty (and apparently the source of the cold wind).

Traffic is steady but not a problem and is boosted by the vintage cars returning from wherever they've been. The closer to Tophouse, the stronger the wind gets. There's small and not so small branches on the road, twice I hear trees crash down in the distance and once I see from the corner of the eye something large topple in the bush nearby. The wind rises further and after being blown off the road and into the middle it is clear that riding is downright dangerous so the last 2K to the intersection are a trudge beside the bike, having to stop and brace periodically. Hearing the sound of the wind roaring through the row of trees at the junction it is amazing that they can stand up to it.

With the change in direction it's a chance to try riding again. The run into St A's is erratic, varying from scooting in front of the wind, occasional unexpected forays into the rough or middle and frequently stopped and braced waiting for a gust to pass. At last roofs come into view and it's a cruise to find a hot meal and investigate accommodation options (I don't fancy either testing the tent or the noisy night this would entail).

The Alpine Lodge is the first thing to catch my eye, it has a pack backers and I'm happy to be sole occupant in a 6 bed dorm room (incl shower token) for $29. The hosts are very welcoming and noting my condition suggest a hot stew in the bar. Perched by the fire the stew warms the parts the fire can't reach and a shower finishes the job.

Looking southish to St Arnaud Range

There's a kayaking group in and the corridor has that smell that you hope isn't coming from your feet (the row of wet suit booties may have something to do with it). A short lie down turns into a nap then it's time to pop across to the bar for a Sprig & Fern IPA and light dinner (Kofkas). These are good and any fears that there wouldn't be enough is dispelled as soon as they arrive; 4 tasty sticks with herbed yogurt, two flat bread wedges served on a simple salad and couscous ($14). There isn't even a grain of couscous left lurking under the cutlery by the end. The hosts are amazingly polite, attentive and the up sell is done with grace and no pressure. And they only have craft beer on tap!

A short yak to the kayakers before bed before 9. They had meant to go up Lake Rotoroa but the wind made it impossible. There is also news about how fierce the weather has been in Wellington however my room is comfortable and warm (and smells less than the corridor).

Go to blog for Monday: St Arnaud to Muria