Southern Kaweka range

I'm finding it a little difficult to find motivation to do repeat trips in the Tararuas so have been looking further afield.  This time to the Kaweka Ranges.  The closest I've been is the northern Ruahines via Comet Road, so this trip looks to explore some of the tracks in the southern parts of the Kawekas.

What:    Five day tramp on tracks 

Where:  Kaweka Ranges

Who:     Solo

When:    November 2024

Map (to come)

There's a lot of info about closed roads and access points for the Kawekas on the DOC website and I discover that it pays to check carefully.  I also have to do a bit of digging to identify the referred roads as some weren't labelled in Google maps or on the NZ topo maps.  

I settle on the Lakes carpark accessed from Kuripapango Road (heads north off the Napier - Taihape road).   Cameron carpark is a closer option about 2kms towards Taihape but it's near the main road and I'm not so keen on leaving the car there for five days - it also requires coming out on the same track you go in on.  

The turn off is obvious and the carpark is about 6 kms up a good quality gravel road through forestry - just north of the Lakes which were formed by a massive slip off Kuripapango.  The road passes east of the lakes (although you don't see them) before reaching a T intersection - turn left for a short down hill to the carpark.  

Mackintosh road end is about 2km east (right) at the intersection but was closed this time.  I ended up walking between the two which was no great hardship.

As usual, it's a bit of a spur of the moment trip so I have borrowed Janine's Kaweka map.  I've learnt from experience it doesn't pay to think you might find one in the outdoor shops on the way north.  I do discover that the paper plus shop in Taihape has a selection of Topo maps but they don't quite stretch to the Kawekas - noted for future reference.  

There's plenty of space at the large carpark and only a couple of cars. The forecast is for a bit of rain in the next few days but right now it's baking.  There's a waring on the notice board that Studholme hut has been moved to the site of Studholme biv which has been moved to a spur north of Whetu.  I take a photo for future reference and get on my way about 13:45.

I decide not to detour to the lakes (which do in fact have names - Rototuna and Rotoroa but are usually just the Kaweka Lakes or 'the Lakes').   

Plenty of space

(NB The grid reference for the new biv location is incorrect)

Day 1 - Lakes carpark to Kiwi Saddle

The track is easy to find and kicks straight into a 500m climb up Kuripapango.  Plantation pines give way to tall, regenerating Manuka, random scrub and back to wilding pines.  The track is easy to follow with a solid foot trail.  

I don't detour to the top of Kuripapango but follow the sidle as the range bends west then north.  There are a few view spots as the vistas across pines and erosion scared hills open below, although I don't get a great view of the lakes.  

North East from past the summit of Kuripapango

Southwest - The highway is somewhere down there 

There are two marked track junctions on the way to Kiwi Saddle Hut - the first after about 70 minutes marks where the track from Cameron Carpark joins after following a sharp, steep spur up from the main road, then about 2 hours from the carpark a track drops west to Cameron hut by the Ngaruroro river (also access to Kiwi Mouth hut).  

After Kuripapango the track follows the main range passing through some nice beech forest as well as patches of pines and alpine scrub and herbs. It's a little up and down but easy to follow.  The immediate impression of the landscape is the massive amounts of erosion, and the altitude at which pines and beech are growing (higher than in the Tararuas).  Apparently a lot of the area was cleared for sheep farming and (surprise, surprise) the pumice soils immediately started eroding and have never recovered.  The NZ Forest Service planted Pinus contorta in an effort to consolidate the land and it would be interesting to know what would have happened if they didn't (i.e., how much worse it might have been?).   

NW along Smith-Russell Track

I arrive at Kiwi Saddle Hut just after 17:00 - a bit under 3hr 20 from the car.  It's a little early to finish but it's a nice hut and there's no time pressures this trip so I read in the sun for a bit and chill.  The hut is maintained by the Heretaunga Tramping club who also have a hut in the Ruahines (it's not supported by DOC hut fees so you have to do a credit to their bank account). 

After an early dinner there's a shout outside and I'm joined by a party of four from Auckland.  They are a group of friends who started tramping together in Korea and are doing a through trip - possibly to the Poronui road end.  It's a little noisier that night than I had been hoping, but they are considerate and leave me to my book.

Day 2 - Kiwi Saddle to North Whetu Biv

The morning is overcast and the wind is starting to pick-up.  The group are heading to Ballard hut which had been my intention so I adjust my plan to see about finding the new site of the Studholme biv (now called North Whetu Biv).  They are still tucking into fried eggs as I head out about 07:30.

The clag obscures the view but there's enough visibility to follow the markers.  The wind picks up further - it's decidedly cool and increasingly damp.  

After about 70 minutes I'm a bit surprised to find that Castle Camp (marked on the map about a K and a half from Kaiarahi) has a basic bivvy with roof water tank.  It's pretty much a chicken coop covered in plastic but seems to be weather proof with plenty of flat spots for tents in the surrounding beech forest.  

From Kaiarahi there are three intersections in rapid succession, each marked with a tin sign with meticulously punched letters.  In the clag, a bit of attention is required to identify where the poles go from each as the next is not always visible.  However, I get to the turn-off to Studholme hut without misadventure and find immediate relief dropping out of the driving moisture (rain would be too strong a term). 

The track drops steeply and soon a bright orange loo is visible indicating the hut is somewhere below.  I'm dropping my pack in the hut a bit under 2hr 30 after leaving Kiwi Saddle.  

It's a small four bunker and in very tidy condition.  It was only moved from the old site (about 600m upstream) in April this year.  The hut shuffling has left a bit of space for confusion - for what it's worth I note that:

• The DOC road end sign incorrectly shows the hut on the south side of the creek junction instead of the northside where the biv was (not a biggy and possibly just due to space on the map).
• The DOC sign also gives an incorrect grid reference and location for where the biv was shifted to North of Whetu (again, not the end of the world as there are marker poles leading to the new site).
• Some maps show the track heading north up the creek from the hut to the old hut site and then up to Mad Dog Hill - other maps show a track running up the spur opposite the hut (east) which runs a bit wider but ends at the same point.  I followed the old track and didn't note if there was a new track.
• The online Topo map had not been updated with any of the changes.

I follow the creek up to the old hut site which has a couple of platforms so I wonder if the hut had been moved once already.  Orange triangles across the creek show where the grind back up to the ridge starts.  

A movement ahead turns out to be three hunters coming down the hill.  They comment on how miserable it is on the ridge and are grateful for the information about the moved hut.  I follow their boot marks up hill, out of the beech forest and into the flying clag.  

At Mad Dog Hill the going gets a lot easier.  This is the top of the range and it's broad, undulating and easy travel.  Kaweka marks the highest point of the trip at 1724m.  There's an insanely large cairn and I'm even treated to a brief break in the clag to see a hazy vista out to the Hawkes Bay - immediately snatched away again.    

At Kaweka (11:45 ish) there is the first junction to head west to Back Ridge and shortly after another down the next spur.  I don't bother to head down to visit Back Ridge hut as I fully intend to come over again via one of the spurs from the east and get into the country to the west.   

It's less damp now and the clag comes and goes.  Dropping off North Kaweka I tuck into tussock on the east side of the ridge for lunch.  I can see the clag scudding through the saddle ahead and sun light breaking through onto Dick's spur and the steep drop offs into the streams and gullies below.  It's probably quite a nice day away from the tops.  

At the junction by Whetu (13:55) I assess the options and decide that I'll have another short day and see if I can find where they moved Studholme Biv to.  It looks like straight forward navigation but it turns out there is a DOC sign and new poled route (the sign points hard right but the poles veer off at a less sharp angle).  

The spur heads NNE then swings north while the main range route swings a little more west before the idge descends into forest and meets the track to Makino Hut.  

The clag drops rapidly behind and before long I'm looking down a broad, flat topped spur with views opening ahead.  The biv is marked on the west (left) of the spur top but I can't see it yet.  The poles drift right so I follow them and quickly realise that the biv is not where DOC said it was but further down the spur below where it branches.  I take the chance to find a mossy seat and do the day's Wordle - the cell coverage over the five days was good enough that I didn't miss a day.

Looking back up the spur

7:05 hrs after leaving Kiwi Saddle, I arrive at the biv - it's taken an hour from the junction to Ballard Hut (by Whetu).  The biv is in a fine spot to catch the afternoon sun and it's a no brainer to call it quits and settle in for a few more chapters and snacks in the sun.  It was moved on site a couple of years ago - apparently as stage one of the changes at Studholme Saddle.  It gets lots of visitors so clearly a good decision to move it.  Again - it is a tidy and well looked after hut.

I potter around the large clearing and find what looks like the start of a good foot trail down an easy looking spur giving access to the track between Makino and Middle Huts.  There's also some old NZFS markers ("Not a track").  The clag and damp are far removed from this pleasant spot.  

The forecast is a little glum - 100% chance of rain by 2pm tomorrow with increasing probability until then.  But no wind - which seems hardly likely. 

Day 3 - North Whetu to Makino

There's a little rain in the night but the wind does drop to nothing and it's very peaceful.  I had been intending to head to Makino Hut from here but there's plenty of time so I notify home command that I'll head across to Venison Tops and loop around to Makino Hut via Mangaturutu Hut.  

I get away at 7.30 and potter slowly up to the ridge.  The promised cloud is gathering but there is still no wind so it is good going on the tops and better visibility.

Looking WSW - Whetu on left 

Looking west to route to Venison Tops   

It's about 45 minutes from the Biv to the junction by Whetu - quicker than yesterday but with a shorter Wordle stop.  Footprints on the ridge indicate that the group of four from Kiwi Saddle probably came through yesterday arvo.  The sign promises 30 mins to Ballard Hut and 1.30 - 2 hr to Tira Hut.

20 minutes later I'm at the junction above Ballard Hut - there are no foot prints coming back up from the hut indicating the other party hasn't left yet.  I decide not to divert just for the sake of hut bagging.

The cloud is rising out of the valleys and starting to gather around the ridge.

North, from the knob above Ballard Hut

The track drops down the ridge then dives into beautiful beech forest.  The well beaten trail meanders through mossy humps and hollows - gently descending before a sharpish 200 odd meter climb to the bush edge on Venison Tops. It's not quite raining yet but is decidedly cool when I stop at the hut which seems to go by three names: Venison Tops, Tira, and Kelvinator Lodge (according to the sign on the wall).    

It's taken about 2hr 45 from North Whetu Biv and 1hr 45 from the knob above Ballard indicating that the tin signs are giving useful track time estimates.  Time for a break, a snack and top up the water.   

It's complex topography in this part of the park - this ridge runs roughly parallel to the Kaweka Range, dropping south to meet the Ngaruroro River at Rocks Ahead Hut. Rocks Ahead looks like an important nexus giving a safe crossing of the large river and access to more tops and tracks to the west.  I'm heading north though, following a good track that drops to a series of lumps and bumps before climbing to meet a major east-west track that connects the Mohaka River and the Harkness Valley.    

The sign promises 1.5-2hr to Mangaturutu Hut.  The map shows the saddle ahead has a few ups and downs but, as usual, there are a few more than the map indicates.  Eventually, I pop out onto another open area covered in colourful scrub and herbs with signs marking a three way intersection and 600m to Mangaturutu Hut.  

It's taken about 1hr 15 from Tira lodge and it's time for an early lunch.  The temperature has dropped so I wrap up to sit in the hut as the first spits start drifting across the roof.  The hut still has an open fire but, again it is tidy, and well cared for.  It is striking how much better these huts are being cared for compared to the Tararuas.  

Outside there's the ubiquitous screeching call of the long tailed cuckoo that has been a constant refrain during this trip - I haven't noticed any shining cuckoos though.  Overall there has been a lot of bird calls with the usual suspects to the fore.   

The track ahead drops gently and then steeply to the Mangaturutu River, follows down stream for a bit over a K then climbs steeply 400m for a gentle amble across a plateau to Makino Hut.

It's pretty much as expected, the track is generally good although the steep bits require care and there are a few areas where the marking needs maintenance.  I get away about 12.30 and reach the three wire bridge 1hr 40 later with slightly wobbly knees from the descent.   The bridge has hazard tape and a sign indicating it was closed in September '22 for safety reasons.  The fact it has not been repaired or removed in the intervening 2 years yet another indication of chronic Government underfunding of conservation.  

The river is not large - no problem for a solo tramper to cross in normal flow and space to set up a tent if you had to wait for it to drop.  The bridge structure looks ok but I manage to cut my hand on a broken cable strand as I check it out so there must be enough deterioration to drop it below spec. 

It's a nice flat wander beside the river with plenty of camping spots and a wee stream to top up at before the grind up - carefully avoiding a very healthy patch of nettles. 

I take it slow and it's 15:45 when I eventually reach the top and the junction with the track down from the Kaweka Range (that I had planned to take).  The tin sign informs me it is an hour to Makino Hut. I'm feeling weary so appreciate the abrupt transition from the steep climb to ambling along a plateau on a well maintained track through tall beech forest.  

Around 16:25 I reach Makino Hut - another short 7 hour day and a bit under four hours from Mangaturutu Hut.  Makino is the ubiquitous cheerful orange and, yet again, well cared for.  It sits in a cropped grass clearing in scrubland on the boundary of beech forest and today is a welcome refuge from the damp day. 

I'm looking forward to getting inside but collect and cut a bit of wood first as this feels like one of the rare occasions that I'll light a fire.  It's not really cold so I get it ticking over just enough to start things drying and take the edge off the hut before letting it die.  I tend to avoid fire etiquette issues by not lighting them - I'm usually eating and heading straight to bed anyway and gear will get wet again in the morning so there's not a great deal of point in trying to get it dry.  

It's raining steadily outside and I have to admit it's nice not to have to crawl into my sleeping bag as I sit reading.  No-one else arrives so I have another quiet night with just the sounds of the rain, a morepork, and something hoofed trotting across the verandah.      

Day 4 - Makino Hut to Makahu Saddle Hut

The route today is south via tracks on the eastern side of the range with a leisurely target of two days to get back to the Lakes Carpark.  The info board in Makino Hut rather ominously summarises the next section to Middle Hill Hut as a strenuous tramping track with big drops and climbs over three ridges.

I set off around 7.20 into the atmospheric forest.  After 12 minutes there is an intersection where you can drop north to the Mohaka River, Te Puia lodge and hot pools.  Very tempting but ... another day. 

I follow the ridge south for another 12 minutes to the next junction - left to Makahu Road (not to be confused with Makahu Saddle which is not on Makahu Road) - off the edge to the right for the first descent on the way to Middle Hill Hut 5 hours away.  

The descents are steep and in places the track is better suited for goats.  The marking is also a little lacking at times and someone has helpfully added tape in places.  The streams are all a reasonable size so there's only really need to carry water to see you through the climbs.  In between the ups and downs the track crosses plateaus that are a delight to travel.   

At one point a screeching call high above heralds a kaka commuting through.  And oddly, I'm now hearing shining cuckoos and not long tailed.

Probably an introduced Morel

 

The day clears and I dry out, except for the excessive sweating when I'm baking on the exposed pumice and clay areas on the steep climbs.  

After the climb out of the last stream valley, I ignore another turn on the left that drops to Makahu Road and amble across the plateau to Middle Hill Hut.  It's taken 3 hr 35 from Makino Hut  - the signs indicated 4-5 hrs so again are useful indicators. 

   

The hut is empty.  I've seen no one since the hunters on Tuesday - this midweek tramping lark is great.  The hut info board informs that the kanuka/manuka scrub and forest is regenerating following clearance for grazing, fires, rabbits and abandonment.  Also, that the next section of track to Makahu Saddle is an old stock route and should take 4 hours.

I take a 15 minute break before heading out again.  20 minutes later there's a track on the right up to Whetu via Camp Spur, and 25 minutes later an old sign indicates the route up Ihaka Spur (no longer a track on the map).  It also says an hour to Kaweka Biv which I don't believe looking at the map.

The track drops to another stream and I take a lunch break by the water for lunch on a mossy bank.

  

After another grind out of a stream valley I ignore a turn off to the historic Iron Whare on the left and head across more flats to Kaweka Biv.  It's an old dog box style biv but looks in good shape.  

It's taken 2hr 40 from Middle Hut with a lunch break so comparable to the signs which say 2.5-3 hrs.

The track angles down to another stream.  I waste a bit of time looking for markers and cairns before checking the map and realising that the route follows up the stream for half a K before climbing away on the other side.  It's a pretty active stream bed so I suspect the cairns are periodically cleaned out.  The DOC marking is not that apparent but if you cross and follow the true right bank there are wee cairns and it's easy to find where the track departs.  

It seems to take a long time for the last section to the saddle.  The track sidles and climbs then ducks into streams.  It's nice bush but I'm a bit sore and keen to get to the next milestone.  The hut suddenly appears through the trees but the track has one last little twist into a stream to negotiate.  It pays to fill up your water here as the water source beside the hut is a bit manky.

It's only midafternoon and it's not far to Mackintosh Hut from here - I've been toying with pushing on to give a short last day.  However, there's another big gorge on the map, I'm feeling footsore and I don't fancy tacking that on to the end of today.  
         

On the other hand, I'm not looking forward to staying in a road end hut knowing the treatment they get.  It is the roughest hut of the trip but someone has cut firewood and it still has mattresses.     

I arrive about 7hr 30 after leaving Makino and 1hr 20 from Kaweka Flats Biv.  It's not the prettiest countryside but it's been an enjoyable day and the weather beat the forecasters.  I don't bother with the fire but sweep the floor, usher out a swarm of hyped up blow flies and settle in.  Investigating the water supply options I find a little trickle near the hut but then discover that it runs across the muddy track just around the corner.  The stream just back along the track also runs near the Makahu spur track but at least it is swift flowing and clear.

Day Five - Makahu Saddle to the Lakes carpark via Mackintosh 

No one disturbs me at the hut although I see a party in the distance that are heading up the spur.  The wind gets up in the night and I'm not quite sure whether the scratching is branches in the wind or rats in the walls.  I suspect a bit of both.  

I head out around 7.30 and get aways down the track before realising that the odd feeling on my calves is the absence of gaiters.  I get away again about 7.50.

There's an info board at the carpark but the map isn't entirely clear about where the track starts.  The topo map is accurate though - you have to pop about 50m down the road before seeing the signs on the right.  A wide track sidles around below the road for about half a K before coming out by a building identified as a hydrological research station.   Turn right on a drive way that drops to a wee creek with a bridge and a V notch weir (Ngaherenui Stream).  The water doesn't look that great but it's the last chance before the Donald River so I top up.

The track climbs and is soon running through pines - it's pretty scrappy country with indifferent marking but it's pretty obvious which way to go.  

About an hour after leaving I get to an old sign saying 1 hour to Mackintosh hut and the track abruptly throws itself off the plateau and plummets 3-400m to the Donald River.  An hour is clearly an overly ambitious estimate in this terrain and I doubt it was ever accurate.

It's a steep, narrow path with crumbling edges and a loose surface - a lot of care is needed.  The way zigzags and sidles down to the gorgy Donald River.  It's small but there's no way to avoid wet feet.  Someone has left a couple of stout sticks on the bank suggesting they crossed when the water level was up.  I would probably just avoid the route if there was any question that the river would be up - it would be a bit of a tragedy to get all the way down here and find you couldn't cross. 

I pause to drain water from boots and prepare for the haul upwards.  DOC marking is sporadic but someone has put tape in.  It's a mixed bag though - a bit mucky and loose at the bottom before getting into firmer rock and some benching, and eventually becoming a more civilised route up a spur.  It was all ok - just hard work and I would hesitate recommending it as a family or beginner trip.  

As with the other tracks around here - the transition to the plateau gives easy walking on good tracks but through mixed vegetation.  I ignore the turnoff to Mackintosh Spur and the Lakes road end and head on for Mackintosh Hut.

The hut is basking in its large clearing, and despite being less than two hours from a road end it is immaculate.  It's taken 2hr 25 from Makahu Saddle Hut.  

  

I have an early and leisurely lunch while perusing the info board and hut log.  I had been thinking to head back to the last junction and follow the track around to the Lakes Road end ... but it looks like it will take some hours longer than the direct track to Mackintosh Carpark and a 2K trudge along the forestry road.  Despite the small matter of another plummet into a river valley and back up the other side - this time the Tutaekuri River.

Someone has lamented loudly in the log about the dangerous state of the track down to the river.  I can only think it's just as well they hadn't come in from Makahu saddle as the Donald River was much more interesting to my mind.

More usefully, someone else had scribbled on the wall map that the track has been realigned so from this direction, it drops down a spur south east of the one on the map and pretty directly to the bridge rather than sidling by the river for half a K.

I get underway again at 11 with the tin sign assuring me there is only 2hr 15 to go (plus the road trudge).

It's now a familiar wander along the flats and it's easy to pick the spot where the old track heads off and the 'new' track veers south east to drop more gently and angle onto a different spur.  The route down is as expected, narrow and steep but better than the Donald River track.

Across the valley the hill face has slip scars and a buzz cut of pines on top.  It's hard to see how there could be a track up it.  

Almost 45 minutes after leaving the hut I've got to the bridge.  It's solid construction with handrails on one side.  Despite being a good distance above the river flood debris is caught in the deck and there's a large ding in one of the rails.  I wonder if it is a legacy of Cyclone Gabrielle.     

    

Upstream the river flows through a sundrenched and bouldery bed, downstream it is cutting down into greywacke bedrock as it disappears around a bend.  I spare a thought for the the state of the river near the coast when I last crossed it on the way to Napier - it suited its name after travelling through extensive farm country. 

Once across I knuckle in for the climb.  It's as hot and interminable as the others but the track is generally better.  This time I know that as soon as I reach the pines it will flatten out for barely 200m before the carpark. 

Just over 70 minutes from the hut, Mackintosh carpark is, as expected, empty due to the road being closed.  Despite the closure, there's no apparent forestry operations underway so I have a quiet wander on the shady side of the road back to the Lakes carpark taking about half an hour.

Postscript

A great first taste of the Kawekas and I'll definitely be back.  The huts were impressive and I think Mackintosh will be my new favourite for a while.  The country is dramatic in places and a bit sad in others.  Tracks were generally in good knick although starting to show the signs of deferred maintenance in places.  I've a got a few other trip ideas from looking at the map and see there is a remote experience zone in the nearby Kaimana Ranges that looks intriguing...